I have a 2018 mercury 100 hp command thrust with today a black max aluminium 17p that slips on the water under hard accelration or trimming out on the outboard. I bought a slightly used mercury vengeance 19p can i use the samme flo torq ii hub kit i use on the black max on this vengeance prop?
There's also composite props like Piranha Propellers. They are designed to break at the blades, which are about $15 each to replace. And its cheaper to try different pitches as its about $45 a set of blades. Stainless are great for open waters but if you make a hard impact, it could screw up the lower end badly... Like throw the shaft up through the upper unit. Aluminum props bend and chip easy. Composite props haven't caught on yet but they will.
Thanks for your input, Warinot. Those have been around for a couple decades. They're fine to try for smaller motors, but we probably wouldn't recommend them for anything over 20-30 hp.
@@blattea2158 It will prevent movement due to the shape (the flat sides) of the nut. In some cases, there will also be either notches or ridges on a retainer. (Note that we probably should have said "bend down," not up.)
@BoatUS so, just so im understanding right, when youre all set, finished with the installation of the prop, and ready to go into the water that the tabs should be bent up/out towards away from the boat?
Thanks for the question, Montell. It’s a very easy project and, irrespective of the motor, the process is almost identical in every way. Basically, you are simply removing and replacing as we show. Just remember to always use a new cotter pin.
@@boatus message received , I need to get back on the water - fish are looking for me. ☝ can you keep the Great videos coming for us - non - personal "s , thanks a lot 👐
@@montellwilliams811 Definitely time to get back out there, Montell! (I think I hear those fish calling you!) We're doing our best to keep the videos coming--they're going up about every three weeks (Fridays at 2 pm ET). BONUS: We have some good fishing topics coming up! Make sure to subscribe and hit that notification bell so you know when we post a new one
You're certainly right, Knight Hawk. That's important info! However, it will change from boat to boat and motor to motor, so we can't specify a one-size-fits-all solution. Always consult manufacturer recommendations.
@@itssammiesakran Thanks for watching. I know it seems like a basic question, but we try not to judge. Ideally all props would require the same size tools and torque, but unfortunately they don't.
it is normal to have a little play in the shaft or i have a bearing broke or someting ? pleazz help i just insall a new prop same motor on your video ! and it making a little grinding noise when i turn it using only my hand iam not sure if i just screw it too tight ,, tomorow i go chek again a try make a video on it to show ,,,, i need help for sure dont want to broke someting :)
Thanks for the question, headshot. There should be no play in the shaft. If there is, that is indicative of a worn bearing, which is further confirmed by the grinding sound. I would not attempt to use the motor until you have the opportunity to get this checked out. I would take the engine to a certified mechanic who is familiar with your make and type of motor.
Thanks for your honest feedback, jg. It's not brain surgery, but I understand that you want more details. Here is a link to an older video we did on the same topic, and it might have more of the detail you're looking for: ua-cam.com/video/1dMNcrcx0gY/v-deo.html We will put the topic back on our list to consider reshooting in the future.
The old fashioned stainless steel cotter pin is probably still the best option, James. I've read about some folks who tried various "locking" cotter pins and lost their props. Apparently they can come undone when the prop is reversed. If you're concerned about theft, a company called McGard makes propeller locks (mcgard.com/marine/propeller-locks/). We haven't tried them so we can't necessarily recommend, but it may be an option depending on your needs. Hope this is helpful
What does that have to do with anything, dang_turtles? The technique is the technique, no matter where someone is born. And for the record, Mark has a US passport.
Watch out for that day-bree😂
😂
I thought that was funny as well 😂😂😂😂
excellent video and proper english. ;) thanks alot!
Ha! Thanks for watching!
I have a 2018 mercury 100 hp command thrust with today a black max aluminium 17p that slips on the water under hard accelration or trimming out on the outboard. I bought a slightly used mercury vengeance 19p can i use the samme flo torq ii hub kit i use on the black max on this vengeance prop?
There's also composite props like Piranha Propellers. They are designed to break at the blades, which are about $15 each to replace. And its cheaper to try different pitches as its about $45 a set of blades. Stainless are great for open waters but if you make a hard impact, it could screw up the lower end badly... Like throw the shaft up through the upper unit. Aluminum props bend and chip easy. Composite props haven't caught on yet but they will.
Thanks for your input, Warinot. Those have been around for a couple decades. They're fine to try for smaller motors, but we probably wouldn't recommend them for anything over 20-30 hp.
Thank you for good information...
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
Did the new prop come with a hub inside?
Yes, the hub will be pre-mounted inside the new prop. Thanks for watching, Civil!
@@boatus Thank you!
At the beginning you’re supposed to bend the arms of the lock washer down. Not up as you say. You bend them up after the nut is tightened.
Thanks for the clarification, lmannella.
Really? What would bending them up lock them on to?
@@blattea2158 It will prevent movement due to the shape (the flat sides) of the nut. In some cases, there will also be either notches or ridges on a retainer. (Note that we probably should have said "bend down," not up.)
@BoatUS so, just so im understanding right, when youre all set, finished with the installation of the prop, and ready to go into the water that the tabs should be bent up/out towards away from the boat?
Say , is that a very easy repair for my ( 1978 evinrude 2 cycle outboard 30 HP. Engine ) also ? Am , a rookie. Thank you , in advance
Thanks for the question, Montell. It’s a very easy project and, irrespective of the motor, the process is almost identical in every way. Basically, you are simply removing and replacing as we show. Just remember to always use a new cotter pin.
@@boatus message received , I need to get back on the water - fish are looking for me. ☝ can you keep the Great videos coming for us - non - personal "s , thanks a lot 👐
@@montellwilliams811 Definitely time to get back out there, Montell! (I think I hear those fish calling you!) We're doing our best to keep the videos coming--they're going up about every three weeks (Fridays at 2 pm ET). BONUS: We have some good fishing topics coming up! Make sure to subscribe and hit that notification bell so you know when we post a new one
@@boatus OK , I'll be looking for the additional videos - thanks
thanks , boatus
Thanks Bricktop!
what size socket for the nut and what is the torque spec on the nut? very important info left out...
You're certainly right, Knight Hawk. That's important info! However, it will change from boat to boat and motor to motor, so we can't specify a one-size-fits-all solution. Always consult manufacturer recommendations.
Whatever size socket fits on your boats specific nut, and "snug" duh 🤣
@@itssammiesakran Thanks for watching. I know it seems like a basic question, but we try not to judge. Ideally all props would require the same size tools and torque, but unfortunately they don't.
it is normal to have a little play in the shaft or i have a bearing broke or someting ? pleazz help i just insall a new prop same motor on your video ! and it making a little grinding noise when i turn it using only my hand iam not sure if i just screw it too tight ,, tomorow i go chek again a try make a video on it to show ,,,, i need help for sure dont want to broke someting :)
not sure if is just the new fresh paint on the props grinding or is just to tight or bearing damage what u think hehe ?
Thanks for the question, headshot. There should be no play in the shaft. If there is, that is indicative of a worn bearing, which is further confirmed by the grinding sound. I would not attempt to use the motor until you have the opportunity to get this checked out. I would take the engine to a certified mechanic who is familiar with your make and type of motor.
Don't forget to grease spline
Definitely! Thanks for the good reminder, David.
What is day Bree?
It's how you say it when you want to sound bougie. 😉
no grease?
Not enough details, video should show closeups of the operations .
Thanks for your honest feedback, jg. It's not brain surgery, but I understand that you want more details. Here is a link to an older video we did on the same topic, and it might have more of the detail you're looking for: ua-cam.com/video/1dMNcrcx0gY/v-deo.html We will put the topic back on our list to consider reshooting in the future.
I actually know how to change a prop, but I’m an engineer and always like to see the details. Thanks for the response.
@@johnvgig And thanks for the clarification.
I guess your boat engine does not allow for a locking cotter pin.
The old fashioned stainless steel cotter pin is probably still the best option, James. I've read about some folks who tried various "locking" cotter pins and lost their props. Apparently they can come undone when the prop is reversed. If you're concerned about theft, a company called McGard makes propeller locks (mcgard.com/marine/propeller-locks/). We haven't tried them so we can't necessarily recommend, but it may be an option depending on your needs. Hope this is helpful
british :(
What does that have to do with anything, dang_turtles? The technique is the technique, no matter where someone is born. And for the record, Mark has a US passport.
No grease?