Once you get all of the new parts install Adam, and start on your first leg of the trip, stop in at my shop here in Boyd, and you can make sure and check out if any issues come up. Have all the tools and equipment at your disposal. Abby would have a field day looking oven all my vintage antiques, but not my collection of cast iron cook ware ,,,hehe! Awesome that your are thinking out side the box before heading out on a long haul! Bear.
Great video documentation. When I saw the part #'s at the beginning of the video, I cringed a bit as I have the part numbers after doing a bearing replacement on my travel trailer. The seal # is 473336 (National). For the outer bearings and race the Timken set part # is SET4 (L44649 & L44610). The Timken part# for the inner bearings and race is SET17 (L68111 & L68149).
Spent a few years in the bearing business. For tapered roller bearings Timken can't be beat! Years ago (before I was in the biz) I put cheap bearings on the front of my V8 Monza. Nose heavy as hell. They'd last about a year and then go bye-bye. Put Timken's in and they've lasted ever since. BTW what *I* did for bearing race drivers was to cut the old races with a "ziz-wheel" and use them to put the new ones in. Tappy tap and they come out easy.
Thank you for the great video. I've been working on cars, my own, and screw machines all of my adult life and i know that timken bears are the best. With your background i know that you know exactly what your doing when installing bearings and adjusting them.
Great video. Always tricky getting the right bearing the first time. And getting the covers too. Awesome. You need to teach our service managers how to do good work 😮
A long time ago an automotive repair shop owner had told me the only way to buy parts anymore is to take the old parts with you and hand them to the parts guy. These days, we have cameras in our phones that can pretty much do the same but it’s always best to "disable the vehicle" and grab the parts that will be replaced and match them up. Most of the time, what happened here in this video is what happens to many of us when attempting to make our time efficient, the wrong part is in the box of new parts we purchased ahead of time to reduce the cluster of dragging out a repair job. It's about the same as measure twice and cut once when you figure it all out just to be sure the "parts man" hasn't made any mistakes when deciphering this part number for that part number and that oil seal with the wide body vs. one that is much narrower and could ride crooked on the spindle not being seated fully.
That plastic will probably work fine. When I was moving mobile homes, we had some (roughly off memory) 12X12 aluminum plates we used for jack pads. Couldn't bend one for what we were doing. Side note, some older mobile homes have had layers upon layers of flooring installed layer after layer. So what could have started as a 30k lB trailer could easily be way more.
Hey Buddy I replace the bearings every year. With that said I carry extra with me for next years change outs. My bearing races ( on the back outer are very hard to remove and my brass drift has a hard time getting it done🤔. Thanks for the videos.
You had more than half the life of the brake shoes used up, I think if I’d gone that far for as cheap as brake shoes are I’d have replaced them while I was there.
Adam, thanks a bunch for all the information! Do the brakes automatically adjust with use or is there an adjustment screw or something on the hub? We just picked up our new trailer last week and I was checking the tire and wheel temps on the first few pulls and one of the four brakes was running cold compared to the other three. Thanks again for the videos!
I think you'll be OK with your new setup but I have a hard time running anything other than Dexter axles in anything thats going the distance... Dexter/Timken FTW. For the same reason you dont want to run may-pop's...
so not only does it have drum brakes but does it have some form of half a disc brake as i could see a brake pad at right angle to the brake shoes at the bottom underneath the axle shaft ?
What you see that resembles a disc brake pad is the magnetic actuator for the electric brakes. It hangs from an arm that pivots at the center of the brake cams. When the brakes are applied the magnet is attracted to the brake drum center and the motion of the brake drum pulls the actuating arm with it which turns the cams. The cams expand the brake shoes against the drum.
So typical with the bearings/seals/grease caps being the wrong fitment. Done a ton of trailer axles in my day and it never got easier to get the right parts. Its the same thing with plumbing projects at home, its like a 3 trip minimum to the store for the right parts....
To bad we didn't revolve around choices and economics. Oh wait! We do. A world filled with economic desicions. Not intelligent. Here's the store.... there you go!
Once you get all of the new parts install Adam, and start on your first leg of the trip, stop in at my shop here in Boyd, and you can make sure and check out if any issues come up. Have all the tools and equipment at your disposal. Abby would have a field day looking oven all my vintage antiques, but not my collection of cast iron cook ware ,,,hehe! Awesome that your are thinking out side the box before heading out on a long haul! Bear.
Great video documentation. When I saw the part #'s at the beginning of the video, I cringed a bit as I have the part numbers after doing a bearing replacement on my travel trailer. The seal # is 473336 (National). For the outer bearings and race the Timken set part # is SET4 (L44649 & L44610). The Timken part# for the inner bearings and race is SET17 (L68111 & L68149).
Spent a few years in the bearing business. For tapered roller bearings Timken can't be beat! Years ago (before I was in the biz) I put cheap bearings on the front of my V8 Monza. Nose heavy as hell. They'd last about a year and then go bye-bye. Put Timken's in and they've lasted ever since. BTW what *I* did for bearing race drivers was to cut the old races with a "ziz-wheel" and use them to put the new ones in. Tappy tap and they come out easy.
Thank you for the great video. I've been working on cars, my own, and screw machines all of my adult life and i know that timken bears are the best. With your background i know that you know exactly what your doing when installing bearings and adjusting them.
Enjoyed the video, as always. Thank you for sharing! Hope all is well with you both❤️
Great video. Always tricky getting the right bearing the first time. And getting the covers too. Awesome. You need to teach our service managers how to do good work 😮
A long time ago an automotive repair shop owner had told me the only way to buy parts anymore is to take the old parts with you and hand them to the parts guy. These days, we have cameras in our phones that can pretty much do the same but it’s always best to "disable the vehicle" and grab the parts that will be replaced and match them up. Most of the time, what happened here in this video is what happens to many of us when attempting to make our time efficient, the wrong part is in the box of new parts we purchased ahead of time to reduce the cluster of dragging out a repair job. It's about the same as measure twice and cut once when you figure it all out just to be sure the "parts man" hasn't made any mistakes when deciphering this part number for that part number and that oil seal with the wide body vs. one that is much narrower and could ride crooked on the spindle not being seated fully.
Timken 💪🏽
Didn't that previous bearing burn up occur shortly after you serviced them?
The runnier the grease the better in my experience on axle bearings.
I wish cars still had serviceable bearings. Everything has unit bearings these days....
That plastic will probably work fine. When I was moving mobile homes, we had some (roughly off memory) 12X12 aluminum plates we used for jack pads. Couldn't bend one for what we were doing.
Side note, some older mobile homes have had layers upon layers of flooring installed layer after layer. So what could have started as a 30k lB trailer could easily be way more.
A better idea, I wouldn't trust plywood pads.
Hey Buddy I replace the bearings every year. With that said I carry extra with me for next years change outs. My bearing races ( on the back outer are very hard to remove and my brass drift has a hard time getting it done🤔. Thanks for the videos.
You had more than half the life of the brake shoes used up, I think if I’d gone that far for as cheap as brake shoes are I’d have replaced them while I was there.
When you had to replace a axle on the road could that make the different for bearings.
In our machine shop we have a customer who brings us hubs from old military vehicles and we made a device to press the races out
Adam, thanks a bunch for all the information! Do the brakes automatically adjust with use or is there an adjustment screw or something on the hub? We just picked up our new trailer last week and I was checking the tire and wheel temps on the first few pulls and one of the four brakes was running cold compared to the other three. Thanks again for the videos!
Hello, I was wondering if they make overload springs for Kodiak RVs
I think you'll be OK with your new setup but I have a hard time running anything other than Dexter axles in anything thats going the distance... Dexter/Timken FTW. For the same reason you dont want to run may-pop's...
so not only does it have drum brakes but does it have some form of half a disc brake as i could see a brake pad at right angle to the brake shoes at the bottom underneath the axle shaft ?
What you see that resembles a disc brake pad is the magnetic actuator for the electric brakes. It hangs from an arm that pivots at the center of the brake cams. When the brakes are applied the magnet is attracted to the brake drum center and the motion of the brake drum pulls the actuating arm with it which turns the cams. The cams expand the brake shoes against the drum.
@@BrianEltherington thanks for the explanation I'm in the UK and not seen that type befor
Based on the position of the jack it looks like you were jacking in the middle of the axle. I thought that was a big no no?
So typical with the bearings/seals/grease caps being the wrong fitment. Done a ton of trailer axles in my day and it never got easier to get the right parts. Its the same thing with plumbing projects at home, its like a 3 trip minimum to the store for the right parts....
It's Biden's fault.
@@spidersinspace1099 How?
Dang, looks like some tire wear on the inner edge…seems like tires don’t last long
Very irritating getting wrong parts! Happens way to often!
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🥃🥃🥃👀👀👀☕️☕️☕️🍻🍻🍻👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
You should’ve taken you watch off just saying
To bad we didn't revolve around choices and economics. Oh wait! We do. A world filled with economic desicions. Not intelligent. Here's the store.... there you go!