Changing trailer wheel bearings
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- This video shows how to change the wheel bearings on a boat trailer. This includes removing the wheel, the brakes and then the original races. We then go through how to install the new races and pack the new bearings with grease before putting it all back together. If you have a wobble in your trailer wheels, this is definitely the job you need to be doing.
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Great video Stu. What I've found works really well to get a new race in is to use an appropriately sized socket inside the race (just like the bearing carriage would fit in the race) and then a block of wood and a hammer. Much easier than trying to align the old race correctly to get it past the lip and saves you having to tap it out *again*.
Granted, sockets aren't designed to take the impact of all those hammer blows, but I haven't had a problem yet and it gives the safety police something to wring their hands over.
Yep, that can be a good way to go it you have a socket big enough. Impact sockets are best but I've never broken a socket by hammering on it. Maybe just wear glasses to be on the safe side.
@@DangarMarine Thanks for posting this, you're my go to for all things to do with my trailer boat. One idea I saw somewhere I liked is cuting a slot in the old race to make it easier to remove after using it to push the new one all the way in, makes it much easier to remove the old one
An old trick for outer bearing races is to put them in the freezer while you take the hub apart and punch out the old outer races . When you go to fit the new races you can also preheat the whole hub before fitting the now frozen new bearing races. If you do this you will often find that the new outer race will almost fall in to the hub and need a very light tap to seat the outer race fully.
Hey Ron. Yes! We have a freezer full of Land Rover suspension bushings at the moment waiting to get pressed in. ;)
You say these videos turn out harder than they should do. I am sure the majority of people doing this work also encounter the same issues, Which makes your videos some of the most helpful on the net. Thanks and keep up the good work.
Thanks mate, I think it is good to realise that some jobs can be tricky sometimes and it isn't just them. It's always nice to know you aren't struggling alone!
part way through replacing my trailer wheel bearings when I got a bit stumped on how to get the seal into the hub. Googled and watched a shit super cheap video that was not much help until I found this video which pointed me in the right direction. I should have watched it before I started as it would have saved me some grief. Thanks for posting
I was shown a trick to removing the outer races. Fire up your welder on a fairly high amp setting. Weld a bead around the middle of the race. As the weld cools it will contract the race is it will latterly fall out. Saves a lot of frustrations.
Nice work DM - you show all the important tricky detail the others leave out! Thanks!
Thanks mate. :)
I have found that if you cut a 1mm wide slot right through the old bearing race it makes it much easier to remove once the new race has been knocked into place. You can then keep the old race for future jobs.
Been a few years since i done any bearings this was a great refresher Thanks !
Thanks this is very helpful as others have said thanks for not editing the hard bits so we all have some work arounds when we encounter the same issues
I’m sure someone has already said this before but put the new bearing races in put them in the freezer for about an hour they will slide right in
great video. Fact of the matter is, most folks don't do regular bearing maintenance and what you went through is the norm. Greeting from North Carolina
I always heat the hub before hand it's a lot easier. I also just tap the inner bearing from the opposite side as it saves prying off the seal and avoids damage if you want to reuse.
Your the man, love watching your vids stu
Excellent as usual my friend. I do wheel bearings fairly often. I love using the Bearing Buddies, and I have them on my own trailer. I have never seen cable actuated brakes before either, I have only dealt with hydraulic systems.
+classicoutboards Thanks Will. I'm not sure those cables could be called brakes though. Brakes normally slow things down! ;)
This has been great. I learnt a lot. Thanks for posting.
Excellent true to life video. Gives me confidence to do this job. As others have said, please everyone use personal protective equipment. Gloves, Glasses, etc.
Just a tip. When to mount the new bearings. Warm up the hub and get the bearings in the freezer. Then the metal in the hub has expanded and the metal in the bearings shrunk. In this way, it is much easier to push the bearings in.
Your video shows what it's like in the real world where everything isn't new and doesn't just pop right apart. Real problems with real solutions. GREAT JOB - KEEP IT UP!
Thanks mate!
Thanks! You break the job down better than others! And no compressed orangutans! 😆
Nice to see all the things that can go wrong Thanks Mike
A trick my uncle showed me was to take a set of old bearing races and grind the outside of them a little on a bench grinder, till they slide in and out of a hub without grabbing. Keep these for helping to seat new races, as you don't have to ever tap them out - they just slide out super easy once the new race is seated.
Hello from Sweden again.
What do you know,,, 110Nm,,that's also what we Tightened the nuts to when doing that sort of thing when I was a mechanic with the local Mercury dealer.
The common language of torque around the world. ;)
You don't use gloves at end because you need to soften your hands properly. Another excellent DIY. Keep them coming. Cheers from West Texas.
LOL, nothing like soft mechanic hands. ;)
Very entertaining video
Grind a bit off the outside of the old races so they slide in and out, use them to seat the new races. Don't have to hammer them out, and stick those in your toolbox. 👍
Why grind?
@@jeebus6263 to make the outside diameter smaller so they slip in and out of the hub.
I think this has to be the best DIY video I have ever seen. Great work and thankyou.
Thanks mate, glad the video helped you. See you on (or under) the water one day maybe!
Weld a small bead around race. or a few spot spot welds in oppostie places. Has savd ne hours of trouble several times!!
Next time after you taken the outside bearing off put the cap nut back on so that when you pull the hub off it catches on the cap nut pulling it out and leaving the bearing and the grease seal hanging.
I dont think it is a good idea to use a old rusty brake pad to seat the bearing cup. when you hit it with the hammer rust and other rubbish can fall into your new bearing and grease, not good for longevity. A piece of flat wood is much better or a piece of brass plate.
Yes, in hindsight it was a poor choice, I was just being lazy and grabbing something nearby. I should put some text over that section say, "Use something clean!"
F Mathieson yeah
These videos are brilliant :-) thanks
Thanks Christian!
Great video to encourage the amateurs among us to have a go and not to panic when the going get tough! Thanks for all the details you included.
Wow, awesome video mate. I spent a while looking through videos on here hoping to find something with such detail. Being Australian was a bonus :)
Thanks Matt, hope the video helped you. :)
Love your steps to do the change but definitely would use the old brake pad to tap in the seal as it can make old dust/rust fall in
Hello Stu, when I do the bearings, I put a very fine grease film, on the back of the bearing race. It makes it easier to replace the bearings at the next service. I also use the copper anti seize grease, on the wheel studs and the bolts that holds the brakes housing.
Threads such as these should never be lubricated. Makes them easier to come loose by themselves and torque specs are for dry threads. Otherwise severe over torquing will happen.
Stu, grind the outer circumference of the old bearing race a few thou. That way it will not stick in the hub and it is a lot easier to remove the old race after the new one is fully seated. Keep the old ones for next time. It is worthwhile drilling a couple of holes in the hub and into the bearing buddies for self tapping metal screws. Prevents them flying off at high speed and causing an injury. Also stops the discount shoppers at the boat ramp parking area from removing the buddies easily.
How would you line them up, it wouldn't be cool to have new wholes each time
I just can't believe you used an old brake pad to tap the washer on and all that crap fell into your bearing now full of crud lol
You should do a video on how to add a brake system onto a boat trailer for people that don't already have brakes on a trailer but would like to put brakes on it
Good video. I'm doing mine, if your old D-Washer has grooves of the old bearings, can you reuse it, or is new washer required? Both mine have pretty good groove from the old bearings. They hold the bearings in place, just don't know if that'll cause any issues with the new bearings.
Great video , here's a trick I've learned from doing wheel bearing races on semis and trailers . Take your welder and put a bead on the race . You'll find it will fall right out as the bead cools it will pull the race looser .
I was also thinking of changing my brake fluid and doing a brake line flush on my boat trailer. Have you done a video on this topic?
No, the only trailer we had with brakes was this one and it was cable not hydraulic.
MrCalifornia1234 are you sure yours uses brake fluid?? I’ve never seen one that did and how would the brake line connect to the truck hauling it??
@@mwatkins2464 The hydraulic brake system of the trailer does not necessarily have to connect to the hydraulic system of the towing vehicle. In fact, while this can be done, it is uncommon. Most common hydraulic trailer brake system uses a hitch coupler with slides and springs in it so it can expand or contract a bit lengthwise. When the towing vehicle brakes the trailer pushes against the towing vehicle and the coupler is forced to contact in length. This compresses a piston in a master cylinder in the coupler developing hydraulic pressure that is applied to the trailer brakes. The harder the towing vehicle brakes, the more the coupler contracts which generates a higher hydraulic pressure causing the trailer brakes to apply harder. With this setup the trailer hydraulic braking system is entirely contained within the trailer. This scheme works quite well in most situations and does not require a hydraulic connection to the tow vehicle. It does have its quirks though. For example, when braking while travelling in reverse or backing downhill the trailer brakes don't work. This is because gravity or braking of the tow vehicle is pulling on the coupler extending it rather than compressing its length so the trailer brakes do not apply.
Love your videos! Yeah, boat trailer wheel bearing replacement is my least favourite job but as you stress, critically important. I actually had a wheel fall off due to catastrophic bearing failure (completely shattered probably due to a corroded spacer). Fortunately it happened after launching the boat and driving back up the ramp - it's shocking and scary to see a wheel rolling back into the water from the rear view mirror. It's a tandem trailer so I still had 3 wheels to get the trailer parked and start the horrendous task of replacement in the car park at Berowra ramp in 40 degree heat. Fortunately it was one of the lazy hubs and not a brake hub. It happened shortly after I'd bought the boat & trailer and it taught me to be ultra attentive to all of the rolling stock. In fact it was so shocking that I rebuilt the trailer after that - including 4 new springs. The conjured image of one and a half tons of shattered fibreglass strewn across a road was too much for me.
A few things I've learned to do to make the job easier is:
1) Use grease everywhere, like on the wheel stubs and nuts - nothing worse than frozen nuts when you are trying to remove a wheel. Yes, I do realise the double entendre! And no, they don't work loose as one might intuitively expect.
2) Grease the new races to facilitate easier pressing into the hub and it also makes removal much easier
3) When using an old race to drive the new race into the hub, just a single cut straight through the ring with an angle grinder makes removal unbelievably easy. Keep that cut race as a tool forever.
4) A cold chisel with the tip ground to a radius along the back of the blade so it sits nicely on the protruding edge of the race to be removed makes removal of stubborn races much easier. It's no longer much use as a cold chisel but very useful for race removal.
Use a shorter punch and a heavier hammer, it's amazing how much energy is lost with a long drift.
I'm glad it doesn't go smoothly in that way I'm better prepared when I do it myself
FYI, bad use of the old brake pad. The chipped off lining can fall into the grease and then you can have a bearing failure from the debris..
Yes, many people have mentioned that.
Please, please, please use your PPE -(Personal Protective Equipment)! Excellent vid though. I know several excellent mechanics who used to work with me who never gave grease and other petroleum based products a second thought. They didn't wear gloves ever, or respirators when they should have. Over time each one of them developed allergic reactions to petroleum based products and had to give up their life's work and find something else to do. One of them couldn't even fuel his own vehicle anymore. To the casual mechanic this will almost never be a problem, but to the professional, everyday mechanic it WILL eventually catch-up with you. It's easy to forget, or say "just this once", but your long term health is at stake.
Yes, I am a bit of shocker when it comes to PPE, must use it more than I do.
Interesting you say that. A couple weeks ago I was working with an older mechanic who immediately put on a pair of nitrile gloves (which I thought was odd for an "old-school" mechanic. He later told me he developed an allergic reaction to most hand cleaners and could only use Ivory soap, so he didn't want to get his hands too dirty.
Allergy is nothing to worry about and fixable. Well established link with cancer of the scrotum and mineral oil exposure www.hse.gov.uk/skin/professional/causes/cancers.htm. Sunlight adds to the risk if you have a taste for a tan on the Crown Jewels and there is plenty of that in Oz (sunlight that is). Urgent homework for Sheila tonight doing a full and thorough check. I will leave it with you how you sell that to her. Love the unedited hassle with your vids which is a reminder to leave plenty of work to the pros. I’m hopeless at elf n safety but
The other trick if can't get the races out, run a bead of weld along tne races and tney just about fall out.
Love your videos. I am a very experienced boat owner but love the great explanations. You are saving a lot of money for your watchers.
I have given that a go a few times since I made this video and I was amazed how well it worked. As you say, they practically fall out. :)
There’s no way I’m gonna destroy my hub by welding it , can’t get the race out I’m gonna leave it in there or spend a ton more money destroying it with a bunch of weld
Thank you. Fantastic video well thought through and great instructional video.
In the US Marine grease I believe is always blue green in color no red there is a difference red is for highway trailer use
Red hot tip # 3, use the same grease in your grease gun as the tub of grease used to pack the bearings. (looked like you had a green grease in your grease gun Stu). According to Air Safety Australia, you shouldn't mix even the same base, but different type grease of even the same brand. (e.g. , shell lithium grease type blah, shouldn't be mixed with shell lithium grease type blah blah, even though they're both lithium base and from the same manufacturer if the bases react, results in failure). And as for mixing lithium and molybdenum base greases as my Father used to do in our farm machinery.............. recipe for disaster. Bases react, forcing the oil out, resulting in no lubrication and a solid mess inside the bush / bearing and of course bearing / bush failure.
I do agree you need to be careful with mixing greases, but so far I've never had any trouble mixing two types of lithium grease together. In a comment somewhere buried in this video I posted a matrix of grease compatibility that I found quite interesting. Another thing this topic makes me think about is an outboard or car comes into a workshop for the first time and needs greasing. Your options are either completely dismantle the universal joint, bearing, steering tube or whatever and clear it out and accept that you will be adding your grease to an unknown grease added by the previous mechanic. An interesting quandary!
Why not use a press and suitable adapters?
When installing the new outer races using the older ones take a flap wheel on an angle grinder and slightly reduce the outer diameter of the old bearing race. That way you won't have to beat the old races out once the new ones are in.
Or cut through one edge. You can use them wrong way round and they work better and are easy to flick out with a common screwdriver.
This is a good descriptive video and one to follow for sure. If I could add one tip to other viewers though I suggest giving the old bearing races a quick touch up on the bench grinder to make the diameter a mickey whisker smaller than original size which helps to remove it again once the new one is seated. Keep them in the toolbox for future use.
That's a good tip, there are only a couple of sizes so as you say, well worth keeping them once they are made up.
@@DangarMarine Ever tried putting the cups in the freezer for an hour before installation, makes them shrink just that little bit.
Neseri2de I chuck them in the freezer the night before and also heat the hub on a little gas stove. super easy to get them in after that.
Your tutorials are amazing. Just been working on my boat trailer and can't quite get the cotter pin in so think one of the races is out of place. I'll go take another look. Really appreciate these videos so helpful! Thanks from NZ
Cars normally 0.002”< 0.003” end float for taper bearings and preload on slow moving vehicles ,and buses I have worked on has been 0.004”
Do you have an automotive press at the shop? would make the job a lot easier on you.
Yes I do but I like to show doing jobs using tools that you average person is likely to own.
Is that compressed orangutans thing like an Aussie joke or something? Flew right over my head.
More of an exaggerated metaphor than a joke.
I think you did a great job. I do the bearings and races the same way
I have to say first class, just spent 4 nights watching all your video posts better than watching tv, there is nothing you cant find an answer for thanks stu very entertaining and informative
Nice job. You don`t have the knack for packing the grease but you can dance so that`s a wash. bwahaha G`day mate.
But I can always buy a bearing packer! ;)
Big thanks for all the videos you create!
Very straightforward and easy to follow, as well as good troubleshooting tips for common problems that people might encounter.
Your work is very much appreciated.
Cheers!
You're welcome. :)
I just did some 30 year old bearings and I ran a bead on the inside of the race with a stick welder. The race fell out of the hub after the bead cooled (my boss told me this trick)
Yes, I've tried that a couple of times since this video and it works amazingly well. :)
Really great video! Always wondered about how to do this, and your video took all the mystery out of it for me. Excellent job!
Thanks mate, glad the video helped you. :)
Excellent video! Your last comment was very sobering. "make sure the grease you pump into the bearing buddies is compatable with the bearing grease and marine grade." My grease gun has general purpose grease. I will knock them off, clean them out and get the correct grease. Thanks.
Hi Mike. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it, particularly if you are boating in fresh water. When you do get around to changing just make sure they are cleaned thoroughly before changing type of grease in case they aren't compatible.
Put the hub in the vice to start with perhaps…
Hey Stu, a machinist once told me bearings only need as much grease as they can contain, any more and they heat up and extrude the rest. Hence he just uses a squirt in a bearing buddy to create positive pressure to keep water out. Any thoughts on this?CheersMatt
Certainly sounds reasonable to me. It makes perfect sense that an extra grease is really only going to be wasted, but I'd rather have a bit of grease go to waste than run any risk of the being too dry.
Good Points, ALL! I have had 2 Situations, myself where it was pretty disasterous outcomes! First I had a 17' Bow Rider, trailer where I did my very first Wheel Bearing R & R, and Repacking! I was Moving, and a Friend needed to go in the Very Same Direction. So, I allowed him to put his Personal Possesions in the Boat to head a Couple of Thousand of miles and then retrieve my Boat from him, at the other end! Two days out, I get a Phone Call from him, and he said that the Boat Trailer had Lost the Whole Spindle, from a Bearing failure! The Boat was Destroyed, but fortunately No One was Harmed, and the only thing Damaged was my Boat and Trailer! (OK, my Pride a bit also!) Now, I didn't see his load, and he could have overloaded it, and I will never know! But this taught me a Valuable Lesson, as well! I have packed Dozens More since then, and was extremely carefull in just how I performed this task! All Points given here, in your vid, are Spot On! The 2nd Incident was when I had a Bearing Buddy I removed from my New trailer, and installed it on a boat/trailer I was selling, as that one was leaking! I used my Boat, a 26', a few weeks after and failed to replace it on the New Trailer! Well, just One Dunk, in the Briney, was enough to destroy it! I went about 10 miles or so, down the road, and someone got my attention and said that the Wheel was smoking! I got safely into a Shopping Mall Parking area, and Long Story Short, could not get assistance on a Saturday Night, nor the Next day, either! ! I had to be at work on the next Monday, so I Improvised. I was able to get a New Bearing Set, at an Auto Parts Store, Tools, and Grease, to repair it! The Spindle was in Good Shape, except the Bearing Surface was Sloppy, due to it being worn, from the Inner Race of the failed one! Off to the Auto Parts Store, 10 Minutes before they closed and Tubes of JB Weld, file and some Sandpaper did the trick! About 7 hours of Grief, several hundred miles from home, I did make it home! That same Fix has Held for 12 years now, and about 30K Miles. I have had the bearing off several times for inspection, and it is still perfect! No degradation whatsoever! I was Lucky, as Both situations could have easily turned out Deadly! I just added my story, so others learn by My Mistakes! I will give JB Weld much credit, as I have used it so many times over many decades with Perfect Results! One Engine Block on a VW Vanagon Diesel Aluminum Engine, has held for 25+ years now!
My pop showed me a trick for getting bearing races out, put a big bead of weld with very little penetration on the race itself, when the weld cools it will shrink the race by a few thou and it will practically fall out.
Yes, I've had good success with that technique too. It can really work wonders if you have a welder on hand.
had a question for ya, i did this yesterday to my boat, and after i seated the bearings, i backed off the castle nut and there was quite a bit of play on one hole for the cotter pin, so i went to the next hole and it seems too tight now.. ive heard both loose and tight can be bad, but this seems to be my only 2 choices here.. any suggestions on which hole to use? thanks,
I would go tight on the initial installation and then check after a short trip. You will find after things bed in that it will loosen up anyway.
@@DangarMarine thank you sir, i ended up grinding down the washer a bit so it wouldnt be so tight, took it for a ride today, didnt get warm at all, still no play when i checked afterwards.. so its good to go i believe..
I really enjoy your videos
Many good tips 👍
Thanks Frank, glad you enjoy them. :)
A few extra tricks, Use a grinder with a cut off wheel to slice through the old races to tap in new ones which makes it easier to remove afterwards. Rotate the hub whilst tightening the nut which may help to align or make both cones parallel, then back off to required preload tension, usually about 2 to 5 newtons. Make sure those pads you use to knock in seal ring are clean so as not to introduce debri into clean grease.
G'day Stu.
Been watching your channel for about a month now and found so many tips n tricks that will be a an absolute God send next time I'm covered in engine oil, grease n so on.
I felt your pain watching you with those bloody bearing races. Truthfully, i had a really good chuckle, but I wondered if you've ever tried two opposing one inch weld beads on the inner wall of the race. As the weld cools it shrinks the race ever so slightly and punch out easily. Although are there are repercussions of using this method.?? Thoughts?:)
Looking forward to the next dangarstu UA-cam installment.
Cheers mate.
Carl
Hi Carl, glad you've been enjoying the vids. I have used the weld bead technique a few times and found it can work wonders. I don't think it is a huge problem as the race is thrown away anyway and the hub isn't a bearing surface so it doesn't need to be perfect.
Hi Stu, Thanks for the reply. I don't know how you find the time. Hope your catch up boat day goes well. Catchyu next time.
Great video, thanks heaps. I couldn't get the races past flush and I looked at buckets of US videos but yours was the only one that gave a practical description of how to do it. Thanks again.
You're welcome mate, glad the video helped you. :)
Hi mate a good guide for the mechanicaly challenged ,not completely useless with spanners my self , but first time I've done wheel bearings on a boat trailer ,mine was a little different they were integral wheels(hub and wheel in one) same principles,only thing I did was clean intire in side of the wheel hub,to remove all traces of old Grease and contaminants,same thing with axle.thank you very much for your guidance.
I remember packing bearings before rubber gloves were invented😂
I always use a brass punch as not to damage the harder metal but still remove/install it. Why did you use that old brake pad to contaminate the new grease while pushing the new seal in???
I must get some brass punches one day, they do have a few uses. I used that brake pad because I was too lazy to stand up and find anything clean.
Bob Friedel he used it so everyone could tell him he did something wrong and everyone has done so !!!
Hi Stu . Love all your video's. I am learning so much at the age of 53. tks. one thing. why wouldn't you pressure wash the hub while you had it apart. no big deal. keep up the great work.
Thanks mate. Giving it a wash while it is apart is a good idea.
You're videos have helped me a lot thank you so much. Just a few things i would like to know. I just upgraded to a 8 horsepower Nissan and ran aground and i think i messed up the prop and maybe the oil seals. Could you maybe make a vid on propellers like the difference between 3 and 4 fin and what the difference means and something about the degrees. And what the holes for the different angle for the motor to be at what's that for. Again thanks for everything your videos are great and if I ever get any money I'll definitely donate.
+Robert “Grinder” Furbeck Hi Robert. I actually contacted SOLAS props here to try to visit their factory to go through propeller selection but I never heard back from them. Fear not though, I'll just go it alone and do the video anyway because I really think it's worth doing. I'll also do a video about trimming a boat which is what selecting those different hole to angle the motor are for. Changing the angle will determine how nose up or nose down the boat rides when at speed. Angling the motor up raising the bow, angling it down lowers the bow, but a whole video is needed there too! Stu
Yo homie...did you just say compressed orangutans??
Yes, Merbau timber is a rainforest timber where the orangutans live. It's beeing cutdown so fast... :(
Now that it's on to getting the boat ready for the lake I took the trailer wheels off today and grease the bearing buddy's. they needed grease but looked good. looked up the torque for 1/2" 5 lug size 13 tires. 50- 75fts so hit them all @ 65. I discovered my transducer is too low so will raise it up. the new trailer tail lights going to set them up so I can easily remove them so I don't have to keep replacing them. will share that video after I patent it. haha
Looking forward to seeing the lights. :)
Theres something so good about hearing how to do something by an Aussie for an aussie... thanks mate helped me change bearing over Chrissy holidays when everything's shut.
Thanks Dan, glad the vid helped you get the job done. :)
Ps dont use rusty brake pad to drive your brand new seal/bearing 22:52
Top man, it’s good to see that professionals get problems too. Most blokes only show you how smooth the job goes. We all come across problems in life it’s how we get over them that’s important. Cheers mate top channel . Col
Good video! I just can't believe that you used that old, nasty, brake pad to hammer home the dust seal. You just went through cleaning everything up, and then knocked a bunch of rusty old steel right into the freshly greased bearing. This could easily cause premature failure, and might actually be worse than if it was just left alone.
Probably wasn't the best choice of tool but don't recall seeing any chunks end up in the grease. Fair point though about finding something cleaner next time.
If you'll look closely, there is crap flying everywhere as you are whacking it with the hammer, and there appears to be brown flakes of stuff stuck in the red grease when you remove the brake shoe. I was just letting you know as a friendly helpful tip. Good day!!!
My first thought for a comment on this video as well. My old man would lose his mind if he saw this video. He was so strict with the grease container, only clean approved tools could enter the grease for fear of contamination.
Otherwise a great video. I will be attempting to salvage my wheel assembly with this as a guide in the near future. How do you remove the bearing buddy? Just bang it out on top and bottom whilst it's still on the axel?
Another point I took from this video was how clean and corrosion free that axel and suspension assembly shown is. Mine is dropping rust every time I hose it off after I get home from a trip to the ramp. Makes me thing I should just change the whole assembly since it's only about $300 for suspension, axel, hubs etc.
I've finally done It! After much determination and making up some tools I have finally extracted the bearing races, stainless bearings here we come....if you heard a Tarzan cry that was me lol
Update! I was mislead they don't make stainless bearings for trailers, or at least not in the UK maybe you guys will have better luck than me, so after all that I had to fit standard bearings albeit with bearing savers.
Glad you got it sorted. :)
Wow! Someone replied lol I always feel a bit stupid commenting on old video's but I guess you do read them, thanks for that, I have one issue with my motor and I was trying to find a video that deals with the problem, I have a 2002 Yamaha 70hp 2 stroke BETOL and every year it seems to drain 2 stroke oil into the bottom cylinder and then down the exhaust depending on the position of the piston in the cylinder, the problem is when I start the engine up if it's been stood for a few months over the winter it smokes like hell! Once it has got hot its fine and for the rest of the season, after the oil from the exhaust burns off it doesn't smoke anymore but that initial start up is unreal!! I just wondered if you have came across this before? You think maybe It needs a new injector pump? Its done about 160 hrs but the engine is Immaculate very well maintained
The Chrisfix of boating
Just went through all the same hassles and trailer configuration as this. It was a nightmare and I can't believe I didn't see this vid until now! Would have saved me hours. Took me ages to work out I could use the old ring and a piece of timber to smash it in the last few cm
Old school trick for getting out pressed in hub races is to hot mig about an inch or so on the bearing face....once that bead cools the race will shrink some and come right out with a couple taps.😉
Great video, I managed to change the bearings. Hopefully will be all good on this 700km on dirt track I have to do in the NT.
Thanks Daniel. Sounds like you are about to head out on a great adventure. I've been down the Birdsville track but very been into the NT. Would love to go one day soon.
Maybe it's just me, but almost every time I do a DIY project it turns out being harder then it should be, so your videos are great for knowing what you are probably going to encounter with these projects.
Thanks so much. I decided to get a new rotor which made the process pretty easy. 10 years dipping the boat trailer in salt water did it in.
Yeah, that is often the best way to go for sure. With many cars this day your only choice is to replace the whole hub if the bearings go.
worked great, as said before try using a shorter thicker punch, and it hammer pretty easy out!
Do you always need to replace the race? How about just new bearings?
Well... The bearing kits come with new races so that should be a hint!
Very interesting to me personally. Every single step you did was just as my father taught me in the early sixties. He was big on treating wheel bearings with respect. We did multiple circuits of Australia towing trailers or vans. I followed in his footsteps as I aged. I can't recall either of us having a hot bearing.
Great vid, I’m going to be using this as a step by step in the next week or so in my shed,
Thanks mate, good luck with the job.
I've see a number of videos on bearing replacement and I agree with others that showing how to work through the issues that will come up makes your videos especially useful. I do worry at 22:52 that you contaminated your bearing grease.
If you weld a small part of the race it will shrink and come out easy. Love your channel!
Exactly what I was gonna say I have saved myself a lot of trouble by welding a small bead around the races and it will sometimes just shatter and fall out.
that looked like a gravy job with biscuit wheels !! great job !!
Fantastic. Great info
All information is good information. But man. Some things you did just the hard way. One tip. When you start the job. Stick the new races in the freezer. They will contract slightly and fit much easier. One fatal error I saw man. You used that rusty crap brake pad to hammer the race level. How much rust fell into that freshly greased hole is anyones guess. All in all though. You showed people that dont know how to change a bearing. The basics.
Mate I’m 46 and never had to change a bearing in my life, I just bought a tinny and the trailer is a bit sad so after watching your vid I decided to have a crack at the bearings!!!! Piece of piss! Thanks mate keep up the good work!
Thanks Michael, glad to hear the job went well. :)
Piece of piss?
Yall gotta learn to cuss!