I've begun painting an entire Imperial Fists army using this video as a guide. Hands down the best tutorial video for this chapter that I've seen. Keep up the great work 💪
absolutely love your style of painting. I've never been super into the heavily shaded and layered styles with a ton of highlighting. Your base yellow and wash just looks absolutely fantastic, even before you start doing the wear and highlights
I love your painting style and techniques. I've learnt quite a bit, so thx for that. Can I teach you something, please? The Heresy era ended waaaaaay before the Primaris Marines were brought to fruition.
Some interesting ideas I'll have to experiment with. This is very similar to how I painted my 5th company IF back in 5th edition except I hadn't thought about spraying contrast paint through a airbrush. I will have to experiment with some burnt orange to white zenithal undercoats followed by contrast paint spray over that.
Thanks so much. There is something very satisfying with the black/yellow combo on them. I think there is an art to picking the right company, and accent colour for each of the codex adherent chapters.
Thanks! If you don't have an airbrush you could go the 'traditional' method with Averland Sunset as a base and built up from there as you described. Without the airbrush the result may differ, as the Airbrush lets out such a small amount of the high intensity contrast that you can easily just tint the surface yellow as I did for this video. But applying it via normal brush may be challenging. You will need to be conservative with your application, and maybe consider diluting the Iyanden with some Contrast Medium and doing multiple passes. I think the scheme can wear the organic application of Iyanden yellow with a normal brush, since you can gritty the model after the fact and i think it will look good. Again, the challenge will be controlling the Yellow-ness Iyanden yellow. TLDR; You can go contrast still but it will be harder to achieve the consistency of the yellow it provides, but I suspect will be still easier than the traditional method.
I have used Casandora yellow in the past and from what I can recall, it would be pretty close. To layer up brighter tones, Yriel Yellow is pretty nice, and for edge highlighting I would mix in a brighter bone color to Yriel yellow.
I plan on following this tutorial as my first mini ever! Does onyone did this like he said with the brush method instead of the airbrush? Curious how that looks like in comparison as the normal contrast guides have a too much pastel result.
What do you think about wraitbone base and averland sunset primer instead your first steps? Maybe put yriel yellow over averland? Your concept is amazing but I don't have airbrush and I'm not sure if i can achieve a good effect with regular brush.
Its definitely tougher without an airbrush. While I haven't tried it myself, here's what I would do (it makes sense to me in theory 😅). Use contrast paints with a brush. It will take more time, but I suspect that if you dilute iyanden contrast with contrast medium, you can build up subtler coats. And I think it may yield a similarly smooth end result. If you try it, let me know how it works out. ✊
Excellent question. I should have better defined the terms. *sweat smile emoji* By build up I mean layer but mix in the next color to the previous, so you kind of step the gradation. So in this example the steps of application would be: Black> Black+Eshin Grey>Eshin Grey+ Griffon Blue. You can step tier it further depending on how smooth you want those transitions in tone, but I wouldn't recommend it for a whole army :) Anywhoo I hope that helps and sorry for any inconvenience.
Excellent question. Rather than build up I should have said: I will first use pure abaddon black to fill in the black components, than I will begin layering the following colours in to add more definition to the black areas. Then I will mix in Eshin Grey to the abaddon black on my palette, creating a brighter tone to layer on top of the Abaddon black base. I will repeat this step finer than the previous using Griffon Blue.
Hey, great video. You said you use Abaddon Black, Eshin Grey and Griffon Blue for the black parts. But it seems you only apply one color - Abaddon Black. What do you do with the Eshin Grey and Griffon Blue? Sorry if the question sound dumb, but i´m a beginner and i am a bit confused you listed 3 colors, but only use one.
NP, the question isn't dumb, this is an older video of mine so I didn't do the best job explaining the method. By build up of Abb black, Eshin grey and griffon blue. I just meant to say that I am layering them overtop of each other, covering a smaller area each time to create a transition of tones. And I can't say for certain, but IIRC I mixed the next color with the previous one on my palette, to create a subtler transition.
Thanks! The Airbrush I used when I made this, was actually the cheap, *starter* airbrush from amazon. The one that comes with a compressor. Currently I use the Badger Patriot.
Yes, but IIRC the Death Watch Primaris Intercessors kit is the same as the standard kit, but with an upgrade sprue. The Standard intercessor kit would have the parts you need, and you wouldn't have to spend the extra moola on the Death Watch upgrade frame.
I’m just getting into the painting thing and pretty much do it just for fun. When I did the wash part, just brushing over like you did... it would stain almost the entirety of the armor... do I need to water it down? Thanks
Sounds like it. I often use lahmian medium to dilute washes, and make them less intense. You might get by with water if it's used sparingly. Hope that helps :)
I wouldn't say thinner, maybe more softer or subtle. Less likely to darken the overall value of the color. It also gives the model a more matte finish.
Great vid, love the end result. Did you thin the contrast base coat, or did you pour straight from the pot? Do you remember the psi you used? (I never used contrast paint with my airbrush before). Thanks!
Thanks, unfortunately I can't really recall the psi.... I applied the contrast undiluted and used the pressure sensitivity to control the application intensity.
@@WhatThe40k Alright, thanks. I tried it out, but for some reason I had trouble getting good coverage in the recesses and basically next to any sharp edge. The contrast paint does not seem to flow well or something. And you can't really do to many passes since you yellow will turn orange. Had to do a light pass with yriel yellow to make it look good again. How did you get the contrast paint to cover so well and still keep it yellow? Any tips?
@@rogaldorn252 Its been a while since I painted that guy. I am not an expert of the fluid dynamics of the paint density vs psi but based on your comment a factor could be distance of the model relative to the airbrush. I was effectively having the contrast paint dry on contact with the model, which made it easy to build up color gradually. Hopefully that helps.
Hi what’s happens if you make a mistake on base coat when filling in black details? What paint to use to patch back up base coat ? As the base coat will be done with a airbrush contrast lyanden yellow
That is exactly the challenge. The best suggestion is to use the 'damp brush eraser technique' (where you use your brush to soak up the misplaced paint, essentially using the brush to clean). Depending on how strong the pigment is it may not be able to alleviate it fully, but your best bet is to use the error as the basis of weathering the model, as chips or scrapes gained over the course of battle.
@@michaeldorn5330 I think the same logic would follow. It's hard to match the smooth transitions of an airbrush when error fixing. So I generally just opt for rolling with the punches.
@@WhatThe40k thanks for your swift reply mate. Going to look into an air brush for the yellow. Not sure how it will look brushed on over the wraith bone
@@brynnjones3703 No biggie :) I didn't thin it when I used it, I was just slow with the application. Building the tone gradually. But i don't see why you couldn't thin it down to give you more control.
Not a problem. I usually have the water in the airbrush first, then add the paint. But it's not gonna always be 1:1. It will differ between brand and color. Aim for sort of a whole milk viscosity.
Great Video. How did you manage to get the base colour as a flat yellow colour? I tried applying Iyanden yellow through an airbrush and ended up with more of an orange colour than yellow. Am i meant to thin it down alot before spraying it?
Tinting with iyanden yellow can be tricky. The reason why it has turned orange, like how it looks in the pot, is that it has built up too many layers. I imagine you can dilute the iyanden yellow to alleviate that effect. But I applied it very gradually, in short pulses tinting the the areas of the model being careful not to build up too much.
That's a tough one. The best way would try to be as neat as possible. The second would be to try and quickly 'erase', the mistake with some water while it's still wet. Trying to match the colour and touch is possible but it's pain staking on gradient shaded surfaces. My favourite option is to turn the mistake into damage/weathering. since it's imperfect anyways. - hope that helps :)
If its too dark you can consider diluting the paint with a medium, but also be more subtle with you application-though you may already be doing that. You can sue yriel yellow, that would be more standard airbrush application rather than the glazing w/ contrast through an airbrush method I was referring to.
@@fortheemperor8764 You can try using a bright yellow, like flash gitz yellow, or even a less saturated yellow can work, depending on the look you're after. You can use it through the airbrush and apply it very gradually through your airbrush.
@@WhatThe40k but why is there no contrast in the recesses then? It looks more than an averland sunset base tbh. the end product is really great! I wish i could replicate that weathering on those boots!
NP. Contrast goes through an airbrush well since its so thin. You're right it isn't the intended use of it. But I find it makes for an excellent tinting method.
You used contrast paint... Through an airbrush? Why not just use a base yellow? You kind of wasted the contrast's base-layer-wash-in-one by using it in an airbrush.
A big hurdle of working with yellow is how chalky and uneven it is, as a pigment. It has to due with the formula with how yellow pigments are made. Contrast paints actually make pretty excellent glazes/ tints when used through an airbrush, which in the case of yellow gets around the hurdles mentioned previously.
@@robertronngren I didn't, I applied it very gradually, in short pulses tinting the the areas of the model being careful not to build up too much. I imagine you can dilute the iyanden yellow to make it more forgiving though.
Hey I have a quick question on the contrast paint through the air brush. I can’t seem to quite get that shade of yellow, when I used it it seems to come out more orange. Any tips on how you did it?
That sounds like you might be applying the glaze too quickly. As the layers build up, it turns into an orange rather than yellow. Consider a subtler handling with regards to the application. Also it might depend on your airbrush settings.
Sorry for the late follow up. Usually I leave my Airbrush settings alone. Despite it being a technical tool, I really only use it for priming, base coating, or the odd glazing like in the case of this Imperial Fist. I wish I could be of more help.
I think it will be close. Before I used Contrast Yellow, I used Averland for some Sector Mechanicus stuff. Its a good alternative. But I find the richness of the contrasts tones, comes from the fact that it can turn orange if layered to thickly. This is what creates the richness of the tones. With that in mind I guess its worth trying Averland as a base and using the contrast in an airbrush to push the tonal variety in certain areas. Subtle buildups of course.
@@WhatThe40k Just did some models with averland watered down with dilluted water. Its alot more deeper yellow , almost brownish compared to yours. I feel if i use aggrax it will become too dark
![Imperial Fists - Contrast on Power Armour Made Simple! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m4x0El5xOxU/mqdefault.jpg)
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is hands down the best imperial fists tutorial I've ever seen.
Dang. I am truly grateful to receive such praise. Many Thanks!
Seconded!
Pulls out Iron Warriors paint...
Imperial Fist: wHAt iN ThE NAmE OF thE emPErors hAIry bAlLs??!!
Forgive me.... Sets out on Penance Crusade.
The Iron Warriors reaction made me LOL.
I've begun painting an entire Imperial Fists army using this video as a guide. Hands down the best tutorial video for this chapter that I've seen. Keep up the great work 💪
Man those boots and weathering. EPIC!
Thanks!! The fists look good with dirty boots I think.
@@WhatThe40k very good. You still are criminally undersubbed. Give it time. 😆
Absolutely stunning mate. Thanks for the tips and inspiration.
No problem 👍 glad you enjoyed it!
I've looked for a good way to paint yellow for years. This is simple and effective - thanks so much for this!
Happy to help :)
great looking paint job. Also great commentary, it really helped keep me engaged in the video
Great to know! I will continue to do my commentary in this style.
absolutely love your style of painting. I've never been super into the heavily shaded and layered styles with a ton of highlighting. Your base yellow and wash just looks absolutely fantastic, even before you start doing the wear and highlights
Thanks for the compliment! It is indeed a wonderful thing to apply a wash to a light armour color scheme.
That's got to be the best Fists painting tutorial on the net. Simple, effective and might even have time for a game...Love the commentary, subbed
Such praise!! Thanks for the sub, much appreciated:)
I love your painting style and techniques. I've learnt quite a bit, so thx for that. Can I teach you something, please? The Heresy era ended waaaaaay before the Primaris Marines were brought to fruition.
Thanks, always happy to hear my videos are helpful! Buuuuut you'll have to remind me, what is this in reference to?😅
Great tutorial! Looking forward to trying this out on a Kill Team.
There is no way I'll be able to get the eyes done like that!
Nice! Happy to hear it will serve you well. Ha, try to do they eyes on each member of the kill team. Perhaps by the last one, you will master it. :)
Looks fantastic mate! Love the weathering tips!
You're welcome. 😊
Some interesting ideas I'll have to experiment with. This is very similar to how I painted my 5th company IF back in 5th edition except I hadn't thought about spraying contrast paint through a airbrush. I will have to experiment with some burnt orange to white zenithal undercoats followed by contrast paint spray over that.
Glad you found the vid useful. :) I think contrast through an airbrush is my 'go to' for light schemes
Love the tutorial and the name of the channel! Awesome.
Holy Dorn i love this! Though i like a more thicc yellow because that looks better for the 3rd company, and yes they do like McD alot!
Haha, happy you enjoyed it!
Awesome paint job man
Wow I love this method. Its how ill paint my fists too
Right on! For the Emperor and for Dorn ✊
great job
GREAT job
Much appreciated.
Awesome video brother! Very helpful, well explained, and love the comedic elements lol. Liked and subscribed!! For Dorn
Happy to hear you like the content. :)
The easiest way of describing the video: that's fucking beautiful.
Thanks so much. There is something very satisfying with the black/yellow combo on them. I think there is an art to picking the right company, and accent colour for each of the codex adherent chapters.
Wonderful!!! Now paint 50 more of them and a few tanks/ dreadnoughts........
That would be fun! But alas, time and money are factors to consider😅 Besides I am busy enough with my Salamanders Successors. 🔥
Killer job man! Dorn would approve!
I couldn't ask for anything more :)
Hey nice Job!
Do you habe a recommendation for me if I dont use airbrush?! Should I use Averland Sunset instead of Iyanden yellow after priming?
Thanks! If you don't have an airbrush you could go the 'traditional' method with Averland Sunset as a base and built up from there as you described. Without the airbrush the result may differ, as the Airbrush lets out such a small amount of the high intensity contrast that you can easily just tint the surface yellow as I did for this video. But applying it via normal brush may be challenging. You will need to be conservative with your application, and maybe consider diluting the Iyanden with some Contrast Medium and doing multiple passes. I think the scheme can wear the organic application of Iyanden yellow with a normal brush, since you can gritty the model after the fact and i think it will look good. Again, the challenge will be controlling the Yellow-ness Iyanden yellow. TLDR; You can go contrast still but it will be harder to achieve the consistency of the yellow it provides, but I suspect will be still easier than the traditional method.
Excellent
ty :)
I would edgelight before wearing, so the wear affects the highlights too
Excellent suggestion! Seems more realistic that way.
5th company is the best company!
This is a great tutorial! Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
@@WhatThe40k I have one question, as I dont have an airbrush, which non contrast paint would you say is closest to the base colour you achieve please?
I have used Casandora yellow in the past and from what I can recall, it would be pretty close. To layer up brighter tones, Yriel Yellow is pretty nice, and for edge highlighting I would mix in a brighter bone color to Yriel yellow.
@@WhatThe40k thanks so much. Appreciated loads :)
Looks great! But it's Heresy af to not paint the Aquila in Red. not counting using Iron Warriors anywhere on this model.
I plan on following this tutorial as my first mini ever! Does onyone did this like he said with the brush method instead of the airbrush? Curious how that looks like in comparison as the normal contrast guides have a too much pastel result.
And I didn't get which color you choose for the chrome parts.
Excellent vid, subbed 👍👍👍
Thanks for the sub, its very much appreciated.
What do you think about wraitbone base and averland sunset primer instead your first steps? Maybe put yriel yellow over averland? Your concept is amazing but I don't have airbrush and I'm not sure if i can achieve a good effect with regular brush.
Its definitely tougher without an airbrush. While I haven't tried it myself, here's what I would do (it makes sense to me in theory 😅).
Use contrast paints with a brush. It will take more time, but I suspect that if you dilute iyanden contrast with contrast medium, you can build up subtler coats. And I think it may yield a similarly smooth end result.
If you try it, let me know how it works out. ✊
Im super confused by the build up part? Does that mean you mix the black,eshin grey and griffon blue?
Excellent question. I should have better defined the terms. *sweat smile emoji* By build up I mean layer but mix in the next color to the previous, so you kind of step the gradation. So in this example the steps of application would be: Black> Black+Eshin Grey>Eshin Grey+ Griffon Blue. You can step tier it further depending on how smooth you want those transitions in tone, but I wouldn't recommend it for a whole army :) Anywhoo I hope that helps and sorry for any inconvenience.
Really liked this one, simple clean tutorial with an awsome outcome. Just one question, what do you mean by "Build up" when painting the trims?
Excellent question. Rather than build up I should have said:
I will first use pure abaddon black to fill in the black components, than I will begin layering the following colours in to add more definition to the black areas.
Then I will mix in Eshin Grey to the abaddon black on my palette, creating a brighter tone to layer on top of the Abaddon black base.
I will repeat this step finer than the previous using Griffon Blue.
WhatThe40k Thank you so much for your Quick response! That’s What I thought it meant, just had to be sure 😁
Not a problem. :)
Hey, great video. You said you use Abaddon Black, Eshin Grey and Griffon Blue for the black parts. But it seems you only apply one color - Abaddon Black. What do you do with the Eshin Grey and Griffon Blue? Sorry if the question sound dumb, but i´m a beginner and i am a bit confused you listed 3 colors, but only use one.
NP, the question isn't dumb, this is an older video of mine so I didn't do the best job explaining the method. By build up of Abb black, Eshin grey and griffon blue. I just meant to say that I am layering them overtop of each other, covering a smaller area each time to create a transition of tones. And I can't say for certain, but IIRC I mixed the next color with the previous one on my palette, to create a subtler transition.
how do you not have 100k subs
I appreciate the sentiment. I like to imagine the UA-cam algorithm seeps from the warp feels as fickle sometimes 😂
Cool..accidentally build exactly the same marine for my upcoming Imperial fist Intercessor squad!
For the Emperor, and for Dorn. Fortify this position!
Amazing work! What airbrush do you use?
Thanks! The Airbrush I used when I made this, was actually the cheap, *starter* airbrush from amazon. The one that comes with a compressor. Currently I use the Badger Patriot.
Yo dude, awesome video.
Is this model converted, I can't find it!
Thanks! It's not a hard conversion it's built using options from the Intercessor kit and Imperial Fists Upgrade kit.
@@WhatThe40k Is it from the Deathwatch Primaris Intercessors? The one marine reloading?
Yes, but IIRC the Death Watch Primaris Intercessors kit is the same as the standard kit, but with an upgrade sprue. The Standard intercessor kit would have the parts you need, and you wouldn't have to spend the extra moola on the Death Watch upgrade frame.
I’m just getting into the painting thing and pretty much do it just for fun. When I did the wash part, just brushing over like you did... it would stain almost the entirety of the armor... do I need to water it down? Thanks
Sounds like it. I often use lahmian medium to dilute washes, and make them less intense. You might get by with water if it's used sparingly. Hope that helps :)
What does medium do? Make the nuln oil thinner yeah?
I wouldn't say thinner, maybe more softer or subtle. Less likely to darken the overall value of the color. It also gives the model a more matte finish.
Great vid, love the end result. Did you thin the contrast base coat, or did you pour straight from the pot? Do you remember the psi you used? (I never used contrast paint with my airbrush before). Thanks!
Thanks, unfortunately I can't really recall the psi.... I applied the contrast undiluted and used the pressure sensitivity to control the application intensity.
@@WhatThe40k Alright, thanks. I tried it out, but for some reason I had trouble getting good coverage in the recesses and basically next to any sharp edge. The contrast paint does not seem to flow well or something. And you can't really do to many passes since you yellow will turn orange. Had to do a light pass with yriel yellow to make it look good again. How did you get the contrast paint to cover so well and still keep it yellow? Any tips?
@@rogaldorn252 Its been a while since I painted that guy. I am not an expert of the fluid dynamics of the paint density vs psi but based on your comment a factor could be distance of the model relative to the airbrush. I was effectively having the contrast paint dry on contact with the model, which made it easy to build up color gradually. Hopefully that helps.
Hi what’s happens if you make a mistake on base coat when filling in black details? What paint to use to patch back up base coat ? As the base coat will be done with a airbrush contrast lyanden yellow
That is exactly the challenge. The best suggestion is to use the 'damp brush eraser technique' (where you use your brush to soak up the misplaced paint, essentially using the brush to clean). Depending on how strong the pigment is it may not be able to alleviate it fully, but your best bet is to use the error as the basis of weathering the model, as chips or scrapes gained over the course of battle.
What if I was a different yellow as base coat instead of using lyanden yellow ?
@@michaeldorn5330 I think the same logic would follow. It's hard to match the smooth transitions of an airbrush when error fixing. So I generally just opt for rolling with the punches.
Did you use the wraithbone spray can? Or through an air brush too?
I used it through the spray can, but it should have no impact on the process. You just want an even, but not overly thick coverage.
@@WhatThe40k thanks for your swift reply mate. Going to look into an air brush for the yellow. Not sure how it will look brushed on over the wraith bone
No problemo. Yeah I would recommend using an airbrush for the purpose of 'tinting with contrast', as it makes the process and gives a superior finish.
Sorry I have one more question, is the yellow contrast straight through the air brush or is it thinned down with something?
@@brynnjones3703 No biggie :) I didn't thin it when I used it, I was just slow with the application. Building the tone gradually. But i don't see why you couldn't thin it down to give you more control.
when you airbrush the yellow coat, do you water down the yellow paint with water? or is that not necessary?
I almost always dilute my paints when airbrushing. The exception being when glazing with washes/contrast paint.
@@WhatThe40k Im a noob, when you mix it, do you just pour the paint into the airbrush then pour water in after it? 1 to 1?
Not a problem. I usually have the water in the airbrush first, then add the paint. But it's not gonna always be 1:1. It will differ between brand and color. Aim for sort of a whole milk viscosity.
Great Video. How did you manage to get the base colour as a flat yellow colour? I tried applying Iyanden yellow through an airbrush and ended up with more of an orange colour than yellow. Am i meant to thin it down alot before spraying it?
Tinting with iyanden yellow can be tricky. The reason why it has turned orange, like how it looks in the pot, is that it has built up too many layers. I imagine you can dilute the iyanden yellow to alleviate that effect. But I applied it very gradually, in short pulses tinting the the areas of the model being careful not to build up too much.
How do u fix mistakes on the yellow armour? Just as I love this and am a messy painter.
That's a tough one. The best way would try to be as neat as possible. The second would be to try and quickly 'erase', the mistake with some water while it's still wet. Trying to match the colour and touch is possible but it's pain staking on gradient shaded surfaces.
My favourite option is to turn the mistake into damage/weathering. since it's imperfect anyways. - hope that helps :)
WhatThe40k The damage and weathered look would definitely work😎 Thanks for the reply.
What should I do if the shade for the armor is a bit to dark? Also instead of the contrast can I use yriel yellow?
If its too dark you can consider diluting the paint with a medium, but also be more subtle with you application-though you may already be doing that. You can sue yriel yellow, that would be more standard airbrush application rather than the glazing w/ contrast through an airbrush method I was referring to.
@@WhatThe40kIf I want a brighter yellow, ( like the artworks) which yellow should I use as base?
@@fortheemperor8764 You can try using a bright yellow, like flash gitz yellow, or even a less saturated yellow can work, depending on the look you're after. You can use it through the airbrush and apply it very gradually through your airbrush.
Hi great job, what yellow have you used to make the base?
Citadel Contrast, Iyanden Yellow. Overtop the Wraith bone primer.
@@WhatThe40k but why is there no contrast in the recesses then? It looks more than an averland sunset base tbh. the end product is really great! I wish i could replicate that weathering on those boots!
@@iamphL Because it was applied with an airbrush, it did not work like contrast paints normally would.
Sadly you skippe the part where you paint the shoulderpat with the fist. I struggle a lot at the moment to get it right..
😅 Sorry about that.
Don't want to by difficult.... but can you spray contrast that easy? and is not the point of contrast to add shading ? sorry confused :))
NP. Contrast goes through an airbrush well since its so thin. You're right it isn't the intended use of it. But I find it makes for an excellent tinting method.
What colour did you use to pin line the armour ??
For the pin wash, I mixed small amount of abaddon black with nuln oil shade.
WhatThe40k will you do a painting tutorial for the soul drinkers! Please 🙏
You used contrast paint... Through an airbrush? Why not just use a base yellow? You kind of wasted the contrast's base-layer-wash-in-one by using it in an airbrush.
A big hurdle of working with yellow is how chalky and uneven it is, as a pigment. It has to due with the formula with how yellow pigments are made. Contrast paints actually make pretty excellent glazes/ tints when used through an airbrush, which in the case of yellow gets around the hurdles mentioned previously.
Would it work to use Vallejo glaze medium instead of lahmian medium for the wash? I can't stand gws silly pots if there's an alternative.
I don't see why not. Although I haven't used it myself... I totally feel ya in those paint pots though.
@@WhatThe40k do you find that you have to thin the ianden yellow for the airbrush or does it go through fine on its own BTW?
@@robertronngren I didn't, I applied it very gradually, in short pulses tinting the the areas of the model being careful not to build up too much.
I imagine you can dilute the iyanden yellow to make it more forgiving though.
Hey I have a quick question on the contrast paint through the air brush. I can’t seem to quite get that shade of yellow, when I used it it seems to come out more orange. Any tips on how you did it?
That sounds like you might be applying the glaze too quickly. As the layers build up, it turns into an orange rather than yellow. Consider a subtler handling with regards to the application. Also it might depend on your airbrush settings.
Could you tell me what your pressure was while applying the Iyanden Yellow by airbrush? Thanks for the video!
IIRC, it was about 60.
WhatThe40k 60psi? Wow. That’s a lot! Especially for runny contrast colors.
Sorry for the late follow up. Usually I leave my Airbrush settings alone. Despite it being a technical tool, I really only use it for priming, base coating, or the odd glazing like in the case of this Imperial Fist. I wish I could be of more help.
What kind of brushes do you use?
Raphael 8404 series, this was a size 0 I believe.
Do you think I can get the same look but using averland sunset in an air brush over wraith bone primer ?
I think it will be close. Before I used Contrast Yellow, I used Averland for some Sector Mechanicus stuff. Its a good alternative. But I find the richness of the contrasts tones, comes from the fact that it can turn orange if layered to thickly. This is what creates the richness of the tones. With that in mind I guess its worth trying Averland as a base and using the contrast in an airbrush to push the tonal variety in certain areas. Subtle buildups of course.
@@WhatThe40k Just did some models with averland watered down with dilluted water. Its alot more deeper yellow , almost brownish compared to yours. I feel if i use aggrax it will become too dark
@@WhatThe40k Did you just poor the contrast paint into your airbrush or thin it down?
I enjoyed the 39 seconds I got to see before you lost me at “airbrush”. Thanks for nothing.
Would it be easier to do the highlights first and then do the weathering?
Perhaps...😅 If the weathering is mud/dust I think that would be better. If its chips/scratches, I think those can benefit from some highlighting.