I'm a New Zealander and have been a fern fibre user for years and It is hands down my favourite, nothing else I've used compares in my opinion. Its cool it is becoming more readily available for plant enthusiasts around the world.
I live in a very rural area where not a lot of unusual stuff is readily available. So I use easily available materials to make my own mix. I use a common houseplant potting mix, and then I customize it with other easily available products, such as perlite and orchid bark . Using these 3 things, I can customize a mix for any plant I have.
I first started using tree fern fiber for my slipper orchid, and it WAS a game changer, roots went absolutely crazy in this substrate. Then I started incorporating it into Anthurium substrate and also use it for Hoyas that I struggled with previously (aka serpens). I LOVE this substrate, everyone should give it a try.
I use tree fern fiber for all my anthuriums. They're also great as a rooting medium. One big benefit about tree fern is that I like how long it takes to break down compared to other soils, moss, and mixes I've made prior. It's pretty pricey but I think it's worth every penny. :)
I'm using some tree fern fibre totems from Grow Vertical for some scindapsus. They're working really well, easy for roots to dig into. Plus, Tim hand delivered them, legend!
I’ve been using it for about a year now. I love it! However, I do layer my D shaped poles with moss. That way the moss can stick out so the roots don’t have to reach out so far to grab on. It really is a great substitute!
I really like Tree fern fiber, especially for propagating or mixing it with an aroid mix. It gives thicker roots compared to other media and its not a hassle to remove it like sphagnum moss. 2 of my Queens were struggling so i moved one to tree fern and the other i chopped and put the chunks in a tree fern prop box. I now have 3 baby Queens growing well and the bigger one is recovering, i can see new root growth. I also had success with propagating Jewel orchids and with a struggling Blue Oil Fern. Philodendron,Monstera,Alocasia...i tried multiple cuttings and the vast majority made it. Just for fun i also planted 2 semi hydro pots (the type that have a cotton wick) with tree fern insted of pon or leca. It worked great, the Piper and Marantha are still thriving months later. When in doubt, i know i can rely on it :)
I’ve been mixing tree fern fiber in with my aroid soil for my anthurium. They really seem to love it. It does seem to dry out a little quicker so I have to be cognizant of that with my watering. But so far I’m a fan!!! Thanks for the video. Great info as always 💕
Tree fern fiber was largely used here in Brazil and I must say it is in fact really unic. They were cut in the shape of vases. But even when I was a Kid the only ones I saw were the ones already owned by grammas as it was alread prohibited. Now they make those vases with cocofiber but, it is not the same. It is still ilegal to harvest tree ferns here and even if they came from a responsible and legal sourcer I wouldnt feel comfortable using them. I dont know, it just takes them sooo long to grow hahah
I really appreciate you leading with the cons. When a new media hits social media, people only talk about the pros over other material, and never the cons. Since things root so well in it, have you had to size anything up sooner than you would with other media?
I have only had it for about 2-3 months so can’t speak about that yet, however, leaf size also depends on many other factors, not just the roots but the roots would put it in a good position to size up :)
I'm in the US. Fifty years ago when I was in high school, I began growing orchids. I remember that there were a lot of enthusiasts back then that swore by tree fern fiber as an orchid substrate. Back then tree fern fiber was harder to find and commanded high prices. Fast forward to the 2020s. I've been growing a lot of Sansevierias and epiphylic cactus and mix my own potting media. I happened to come across tree fern fiber in a pet store and remembered the positive attributes and bought a bag. Mixed with pumice, potting soil, and pine bark, the plants growing in that mix are doing very well. Yesterday I received a new Rhipsalis that was shipped bare root and needed to create some potting mix. I came across my tree fern fiber and mixed it with a bonsai gritty mix containing pumice and small pine bark. The tree fern fiber made for a fluffy media that made me think of what would accumulate on tree branches in the tropics. I'm sold on the material, particularly for epiphylic tropical/semi-tropical plants.
Spaghnum Moss that I got from Bunnings tends to become harden after 3 days, which can suffocate the plants. Had some plants that died because of that, which is why I am trying to avoid using moss.
Getting ready to try it so this was very timely. Thanks for also pointing out the cons, we need to know those as well as the pros. Your greenhouse looks stunning in the background, my envy keeps growing. 😊
Good video! Personally I like to grow in the highest best draining media I can so I can water often and generously. Orchids love water but also lots of air. Most people who try water culture learn after a while their plants don’t do well. Most want roots to throughly dry until white down in the pot - stick your fingers down in the pot and if the bark is bone dry, it’s time to water cattleyas etc. phals I think it’s best to brown in clear plastic pots with lots of holes in Orchiata Power Bark and you can then see the roots as they turn color. I burn holes in the pots with a wood burning tool. It’s cheaper. When the roots turn a silvery green, water them well and wait until they are that color again to the bottom of the pot. If still dark green, too wet yet. If white/silver, too late. If yellow, they need air. The old saying use to be if you looked at your orchids and the phals looked like they needed to be water - should have watered them the day before. If cattleyas, and you are thinking maybe I should water, then water the next day. Same for Vanda if in pots of small bark, etc. but if Vanda are hanging on wire, no media they need 2x3 times a day not a week. If you have more than 1-2” bare stems, ie approaching the palm tree look, skinny roots, limp leaves and yellowing leaves - you aren’t watering them enough if hanging on wire or mounted. Vanda never go dormant in winter. They need good light, as high a humidity 70-80% as you can get, lots of breezes on the plants (all orchids want the leaves slightly moving) and temps 70 at night, 80-85 in the day. Light varies for the type of vandaceous they are, but typical strap leaf wants 50% shade or if slowly acclimated some terte types can take full sun but want dappled shade in middle of day. Don’t let them get burned up and end up with unsightly plants or worse, with bacterial infections (yellow halo/ring around the burned area). Depending on where you live ie Florida vs Maine will make this difference as will the type, the humidity and temps. Also for all orchids - constant mild breezes whether natural or fans will help prevent burns. But if temps are high above 90 fans can also dehydrate them, so keep humidity high. Keep in mind that Vandas are heavy feeders. If you use a fertilizer that says 1 tsp per gallon once a week, divide it up over the number of days you water. For Vanda I use a base 12-1-1 (KLite water soluble from First Rays) with full micronutrients, 10% calcium and 3% magnesium at 25-50% maybe 75% when they are full of root tips, it’s at the top of temp range, summer, putting out new growth, etc. 25% in winter unless still in active growth. Be careful with high fertilizer when it’s over 90, or humidity is low. If you know you need to fertilize, then go on and water mounts heavy first and then later in the day when they are still slightly green silvery green, then fertilizer. Less chance of burning root tips when it’s hot and they are dry or haven’t been watered for a day or so. I normally fertilize my mounted or hanging on wire Vandaceous orchids in the morning. That counts as their first watering. The humidity is higher early and they were well water the late afternoon, early evening the night before so will still have some moisture especially in late July and August. Remember plants putting out lots of flowers and leads and leaves need full nutrients and with cattleyas they need those nutrients and certainly calcium for all those new leads coming on like crazy so you don’t get rot.
Very informative thank you it's all the rave over here in NZ in the plant community I haven't tried it myself but will now after your vid.its absolutely freezing over here at mo with snow brrr
Fantastic video thanks Jan 😘 Answered all I've been wondering about 👍 What do you think about a TFF/sphag moss mix for poles? Cheaper, and moss holds TFF together while TFF helps moss retain moisture ? Edit: Added info for Aussie followers . I was concerned about shipping costs but 40l bag is $120 and Grow Vertical offers free delivery for orders over $100🥳 (within Aus only)
I’ve been using TFF/moss about 50/50 in my poles and it’s working beautifully. The TFF allows water to distribute more easily, especially if the pole is dry. Plus, it cuts the cost down.
Its almost unavailable in Europe (unless you live in the UK, there are a couple of shops). I bought it directly from the Distributor Besgrow, I think it was something between 60 and 70 Euros for the 40liter bag, so not too shabby. But thats a general problem here in Germany since covid with Besgrow Products. I just bought some spagmos for 50% of the price from the Netherlands (The only German Online Shop you can order from wants 50 Euros instead of 27 from the Netherlands o_O ). I am only using it for a couple of months now, plants like to root inside, the only con for me is it dries out too quick in a moss pole, does not even last 24 hours. Plants still root nicely into the dry treefern. :)
I'm from NZ as well, and fern (along with pon) is my absolute favorite substrate. I usually use pon for most things, but in the past year or so I started mixing it with fern because pon is kind of expensive and annoying to source (there's one supplier who sells the big bags and it's out of stock a lot of the time). I find that pretty much all of my plants love both, so ultimately, it doesn't matter which one I use. Usually, I use pon+fern it pots, mainly to give the pot a bit of weight, so that my poles don't tip over, and then just use fern in the pole itself (I use Thiccly poles). Sometimes I get very obsessive and mother the shit out of my plants, so I find that adding a pon to my fern also helps with soggyness a bit, and lets me water more, because I just can't help myself haha. I don't think I will ever go back to soil, fern and pon (either alone or together) works for me beyond perfectly.
Don’t read it as a negative comment: 20 years ago, when I started my orchid journey, the fern medium was already in the market and was already flagged as not sustainable. There are not an unlimited number of tree ferns (many are also protected), and are not fast growing. Why don’t use coco chips+coco choir (coco palms are not at risk) + perlite? the results is the same.
Wouldn’t the sustainablity of a renewable source be subject to harvesting practices? But understand that it cannot be sustainably harvested in very large quantities. I have tried coco chips & peat in poles before and have to disagree, my results are nowhere near as good :/
Depends where you've got them from. Fernwood NZ follows the stringest sustainability regulation in NZ, when harvesting theirs. And superior in itself and the results, in comparison to South American or Mexican fern fibre.
@claudio7410 totally agree, they just regrow too slowly and climate changes arent helping, i would also be worried about invasive species just growing faster and taking to the clearings faster than the ferns could regenerate @sidneyplantguy honestly treeferns like Dicsonia sp. are some of the most prehistoric looking plants you could ever grow if i could i would totally collect treeferns in my apartment rather than growing aroids and orchids there are some gardencenters that save treeferns that would be lost due to road construction etc. get one and grow it to find out just how slowly they grow and how perfect the conditions need to be for them to thrive still, i am sure it is a fantastic medium, cheers and thanks for your videos
@@danielnewald4758this is Dicksonia fibrosa. Fernwood are only allowed to harvest a certain percentage of standing tree ferns. They also leave the tops to reroot and continue growing. They are basically just giving them a root prune. There is a reason it’s expensive.
@@timbardsley-smith966 Most tree-ferns simply die if the rhyzome is cut, even in Dicsonia antarctica the stumps won't regrow and replanting the tops can easily fail. I don't know enough about this species to know if it would be possible sadly. With enough work it might be "sustainable" and i trust that this is the case here. Still to me it seems akin to making mulch for your young fruit tree from a 100 year old, award winning bonsai. Cheers DN
This video was on time for me. I have an Anthurium Moodeanum coming and I really dont want to put it in my regular dirt mix (being the plant snob that im really not 🤭😂). I have found where I can get this brand of tree fern fiber. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. I have learned so much from your channel. 💜
I just bought 5 l bag of tree fern fiber. It was very expensive. One of my orchid species grows well only in this substrate. I will try it with my slipper orchid.
Great video as always, thanks for sharing. I was always curious about this substrate and was wondering if it can be used for orchids instead of sphagnum? I haven't looked to see if I can source it in UK but I'm sure it's more expensive than sphagnum!
Jan...😍 SO BRILLIANT IDEA!..💖.. First thing first, I thank Tim! ( Grow Vertical )..👍.. Jan...😊❤️ I really APPRECIATE You because You use TFF with different Experiments. Because of the mess, they are better used for indoors. Fortunately you have Garden and a new Green House!..❤️💚.. I'm looking forward to watching the Progress of your Plants using TFF there and the Propagation later ( Yes!.. It will be easier but still challenging!.. especially the first experience of that Propagation..😍👍..) Jan...😊 Thank you soo much for this useful Video. ( And there was a Reminder about the Priorities!.. COOL!..🤗..) The Informations and Experiences can give a broad Understanding!..😍.. You showed your Love in order that your Plants can grow Happily!..👍.. ( Our LOVE for Brad always!..😻🐈🤗 ) HAPPY GROWING!..💓. I LOVE IT!!...💞❤️💐🌈🌸🥰😍😻🐈🤗💓..
They can have tree ferns replanted in new plantations, or replace as they take out old ones -- and all plants including trees whether tree fern or not - die at some point. If you are a good plantation or forestry manager of your own property - you want to go in and take out diseased trees, or infested (bugs) trees the same as you would do in your own yard. You have to keep it cleaned out and you are always replacing plants as they complete their life cycle. Some trees may last 25 years like pines and others like oaks might be 75-150 years depending on the type. But if you are harvesting for say lumber you have to catch before bugs or diseases overtake them but the tree has reached its maximum healthy size and age. Also products like Orchiata which is pinus radiata from NZ which comes from the lumber market, or tree fern can last years. So you aren’t throwing it away so often unless you don’t grow healthy plants and have to. Orchiata I have had it last at least 5 years and when I have moved to a larger pot, it’s still like new. I have used the Fernwood panels for small orchids, you can mount them to it and just sit in a clay pot or hang up with S hook. It will eventually fall apart, I cut a cage for the board (full or 1/2 panel) for it to hold it the best and the orchid quickly establishes its roots on and through the panel/board and I have several that are going on 4 years and seems fine. Make sure for attaching plants you want to use the thicker 1/2” board not the thinner stuff used to line a reptile environment, terrariums, etc. Note you can attach 2 boards of the thicker stuff and make a cage or buy something that will serve the same purpose and attach the plant on the outside. Con: of fern board is you can just rip the roots off it - it’s best to either just sit in a appropriate clay pot, and fill with Orchiata Super (largest size OEF Orchid Supplies Miami area ) and let the roots move into the bark or just wait until the board disintegrates in its own. Once it gets older it will be easy to sorta break off the outside big chunks with no roots. I don’t t know for sure because after 4 years, mine are still holding together in their little cage, are watered up to 3 times a day and hang in sun so they dry fairly quickly. I don’t water my Vanda until the roots are white again. Water until the turn green - takes water for several minutes until green, wait 10 minutes and water until dark green. Don’t mistake algae or fertilizer green for the roots being well watered. Sphagnum moss has to be changed out of the pot every 6-18 months if you want the plant to grow well because it becomes highly acidic, it’s already acidic like 3 for plants that want to be ideal at 5.5-6.5. When fresh it has the ability to buffer itself but not as it gets old. And with moss, it gets super soggy, or super dry. It doesn’t smell good - not my favorite. On the loose fern in the bag, the roots will pretty much fill the pot and in clear pots you can see the roots as to when you need to water. But absolutely it will fall off cleanly and if moving to a larger pot, you just put a little in bottom to raise the plant up if needed, and sit the plant in new pot and fill in around it provided your plant and roots are healthy. If healthy it already has good microbes, and if using a good probiotic then you don’t disturb the community of healthy things. Basically do the same with Orchiata. When Vanda get larger than the fern panels, I sorta pre anticipate and if a climber use the largest I can get but once they outgrow this - I will just attach to a large piece of virgin cork wood. When it fills that up it will be more than ready to separate into smaller sections.
Could you please tell me what perlite you are using? I got mine from Bunnings with the brand named Brunning and it looks more like a styrene foam cup that has been broken into pieces. Yours look more biggier, and harder which I prefer.
Good info, thanks Jan. I wasn't sure whether it was worth it. What would you think as a mix of sphagnum moss and tree ferns fibre? Too messy?... Also, is that an Alocasia cuprea in the background? It's gorgeous! How do you manage to get it to grow that big? Mine is an absolute magnet for mealybugs and spider mites. It grows well between 2 infestation episodes.
Thanks :) a mix should totally work :) I have a full video on my cuprea but spoiler alert.... not sure why my cuprea is such an overachiever :D ua-cam.com/video/jA-lPKxfp0s/v-deo.html
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Thanks for this video m8! Im about to repot my thai constellation because it doesn’t want to give me big fenestrations despite being at southern exposition and having very good feed. Want to add pole because maybe this is the reason. Would you recommend xaxim for pole? Or would you mix it with something other? What proportions?
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Also a way to calculate how many liters to get per pole. :D
I don’t have my thai on a pole and it’s maturing fine. It’s a deliciosa after all, very easy going so don’t think you need to worry too much about what you support your pole with, it’s pretty flexible :) moss would be fine or a combination of TFF, perlite & bark :) I never measure, I just wing it :)
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@@sydneyplantguy Hehe ye i wont it too most of The time. ;) Just sometimes I order too little or too much 😅 Want it on a pole because for creeping on ground it would take a lot of space. And living on a 80 sq meters with 500 plants is not an easy feat! 😂
Would you say it's so good that it's worth double to sphagnum moss? Unfortunately in UK the cost of it at the moment is around double to sphagnum, but I'm still eyeing it 😅
@@sydneyplantguy thanks for the reply 😊 I will keep an eye on it in case there will be some price drop as it is something I would like to try but yeah, not complaining about sphagnum.
Can it made from grinded-up old fronds? Do you have to destroy the whole tree? Years ago when I started our tree ferns I heard not to trash the old fronds bc they make great mulch. Seems like this is what they're talking about. Anyhow, going to start using the old fronds this way to see
🙏 PLEASE HELP! 2 weeks ago, I made a D-style pole for my Manjula. I followed your recipe for aroids. In order to keep the mix in the pole, I put a light layer of New Zealand treefern across the bottom (side were holes allow roots to grow in), then filled it with your aroid mix recipe. Within the pot, I also have your aroid mix. I did tap the pot onto the table 2-3 times, because I need to get more substrate around the roots, which contacted it slightly. I was so happy, because the loose roots of one cutting along the stem actually started to dig into the fiber already. 2 leaves started to unravel and 1 new leaf in also developing. BRarely any transplant shock! Since I have clear pots, I only watered twice, once there was no more "fog" in the pot. This morning I wake up to take a peak......now there is MOLD ON THE FIBERS. I really don't think it is lack of araetion. I have them on a 2.5 meter window sill with 2 other plants. (A 4 yr old orchid, a new tower for a Monstera cutting with 3 leaves - none have this issue) And as all Germans, I have my balcony door open almost all day. Because we have had a super crappy summer with little sunshine, I also have a grow light that radiates onto the Manjula. So far only where there are no leaves (where the light hits onto the pole directly), is where the N.Z. Treefern Fiber is evenly growing mold on each little fiber. What should I do? When I read up in orchid communities that use NZ Treefern Fiber, one article states it is actually good for the biological breakdown and plants. Do you know anything about this? I can't have this! I'm an asthmatic and any form of mold (good or bad) is not good for me. Please advice how I can get rid of it. 🙏
Mm odd, never happened to me. Usually it would be due to airflow. UV light also kills mould so it’s odd that the part exposed to the light is showing signs of mould. I would try and improve airflow further if u can and be more conservative with the watering :)
Thank you. On Sunday, I can pick out that top layer the molded fibers. I will then sprinkle cinnamon over it. Lol...crazy attempt....I'm going fill a plastic syringe w. cinnamon and "blow it into the the remaining NZ Ferntree layer. Then I'll turn on an additional ventilator. But you're right! The I need to adjust the watering. This is the first time I am working with this medium. I have already come to realized it truly stays moist longer. In this case I think less is more. ✨️Honestly, Jan, THANK YOU FOR RESPONDING WITH YOUR THOUGHTS❣️
Curious: have you (or any viewers) ever used pafcal? It’s a sponge like material originally developed by the Toyota Suntory Group. I will be curious about what other people’s experience are with them, especially in comparison with other substrates. I had it when I bought plants from Muji and they all grew really well. My spider plant for some reason shot 25+ pups within 2 months, and it is not a large plant at all. I got a hold of some pafcal in chip form and lately I began to mix a bit into the aroid mix to give a slightly more water retention. Again, would love to hear what others experiences are with them.
I was hoping that was the answer and not a mix fix. Still trying to convince die-hard mix fans that you don't have to mix anymore. :) TFF is all I use. Big fan of it and of you. Keep up the inspirational work! @@sydneyplantguy
But tree ferns are so beautiful. I'd never use them. They take ages to grow and I find it hard to believe that deforestation could ever be sustainable. 😭
Was hoping you were gonna compare how much gas 120 bucks can get you, but I just remembered that you don’t drive much, since “2 meals” also depends on a lot of factors. Also, nice legs!
Priorities right 😅 I would rather get plant substrates than jewelry,😂 but that’s me! My friends and family know me really well…. Great video as I was looking for some information on TFF…. Natalie 🫶🏼🪴🍃
I'm a New Zealander and have been a fern fibre user for years and It is hands down my favourite, nothing else I've used compares in my opinion. Its cool it is becoming more readily available for plant enthusiasts around the world.
Thanks for sharing :)
I live in a very rural area where not a lot of unusual stuff is readily available. So I use easily available materials to make my own mix. I use a common houseplant potting mix, and then I customize it with other easily available products, such as perlite and orchid bark . Using these 3 things, I can customize a mix for any plant I have.
I first started using tree fern fiber for my slipper orchid, and it WAS a game changer, roots went absolutely crazy in this substrate. Then I started incorporating it into Anthurium substrate and also use it for Hoyas that I struggled with previously (aka serpens). I LOVE this substrate, everyone should give it a try.
That is great to hear. I just started considering to repot my Paph. rungsuriyanum in tree fern fiber. Did you mix it with perlite?
I use tree fern fiber for all my anthuriums. They're also great as a rooting medium. One big benefit about tree fern is that I like how long it takes to break down compared to other soils, moss, and mixes I've made prior. It's pretty pricey but I think it's worth every penny. :)
I'm using some tree fern fibre totems from Grow Vertical for some scindapsus. They're working really well, easy for roots to dig into. Plus, Tim hand delivered them, legend!
He’s such a great guy :) happy growing !!
I know this is off topic, but...Your greenhouse has really enhanced the view out your sliding doors! You've got me considering purchasing one.
Yes it looks so good doesn’t it 🥰🥰 thanks !
I’ve been using it for about a year now. I love it! However, I do layer my D shaped poles with moss. That way the moss can stick out so the roots don’t have to reach out so far to grab on. It really is a great substitute!
That’s a great idea :) thanks !
I do this too, it also helps as a barrier to keep the tree fern in the pole, works great!
I really like Tree fern fiber, especially for propagating or mixing it with an aroid mix.
It gives thicker roots compared to other media and its not a hassle to remove it like sphagnum moss.
2 of my Queens were struggling so i moved one to tree fern and the other i chopped and put the chunks in a tree fern prop box. I now have 3 baby Queens growing well and the bigger one is recovering, i can see new root growth. I also had success with propagating Jewel orchids and with a struggling Blue Oil Fern. Philodendron,Monstera,Alocasia...i tried multiple cuttings and the vast majority made it.
Just for fun i also planted 2 semi hydro pots (the type that have a cotton wick) with tree fern insted of pon or leca. It worked great, the Piper and Marantha are still thriving months later.
When in doubt, i know i can rely on it :)
That’s awesome :)
I’ve been mixing tree fern fiber in with my aroid soil for my anthurium. They really seem to love it. It does seem to dry out a little quicker so I have to be cognizant of that with my watering. But so far I’m a fan!!!
Thanks for the video. Great info as always 💕
Thanks :)
Tree fern fiber was largely used here in Brazil and I must say it is in fact really unic. They were cut in the shape of vases. But even when I was a Kid the only ones I saw were the ones already owned by grammas as it was alread prohibited. Now they make those vases with cocofiber but, it is not the same. It is still ilegal to harvest tree ferns here and even if they came from a responsible and legal sourcer I wouldnt feel comfortable using them. I dont know, it just takes them sooo long to grow hahah
Appreciate the feedback! Great video💯
I really appreciate you leading with the cons. When a new media hits social media, people only talk about the pros over other material, and never the cons. Since things root so well in it, have you had to size anything up sooner than you would with other media?
I have only had it for about 2-3 months so can’t speak about that yet, however, leaf size also depends on many other factors, not just the roots but the roots would put it in a good position to size up :)
@@sydneyplantguy I meant in terms of being rootbound, not the actual size of the plant, but I'll just be patient to see more of your results, haha
I'm in the US. Fifty years ago when I was in high school, I began growing orchids. I remember that there were a lot of enthusiasts back then that swore by tree fern fiber as an orchid substrate. Back then tree fern fiber was harder to find and commanded high prices. Fast forward to the 2020s. I've been growing a lot of Sansevierias and epiphylic cactus and mix my own potting media. I happened to come across tree fern fiber in a pet store and remembered the positive attributes and bought a bag. Mixed with pumice, potting soil, and pine bark, the plants growing in that mix are doing very well. Yesterday I received a new Rhipsalis that was shipped bare root and needed to create some potting mix. I came across my tree fern fiber and mixed it with a bonsai gritty mix containing pumice and small pine bark. The tree fern fiber made for a fluffy media that made me think of what would accumulate on tree branches in the tropics. I'm sold on the material, particularly for epiphylic tropical/semi-tropical plants.
It’s been giving me great results so far as well :)
Awesome roots in 5 wks. It’s a bit pricy here in USA, but I got a small bag for my splendid!
Thanks :)
Spaghnum Moss that I got from Bunnings tends to become harden after 3 days, which can suffocate the plants. Had some plants that died because of that, which is why I am trying to avoid using moss.
Getting ready to try it so this was very timely. Thanks for also pointing out the cons, we need to know those as well as the pros. Your greenhouse looks stunning in the background, my envy keeps growing. 😊
Thank you :)
I just heard about this substrate a few days ago. Thank you for the info.
Très belles plantes i love
Good video!
Personally I like to grow in the highest best draining media I can so I can water often and generously. Orchids love water but also lots of air. Most people who try water culture learn after a while their plants don’t do well. Most want roots to throughly dry until white down in the pot - stick your fingers down in the pot and if the bark is bone dry, it’s time to water cattleyas etc. phals I think it’s best to brown in clear plastic pots with lots of holes in Orchiata Power Bark and you can then see the roots as they turn color. I burn holes in the pots with a wood burning tool. It’s cheaper. When the roots turn a silvery green, water them well and wait until they are that color again to the bottom of the pot. If still dark green, too wet yet. If white/silver, too late. If yellow, they need air.
The old saying use to be if you looked at your orchids and the phals looked like they needed to be water - should have watered them the day before. If cattleyas, and you are thinking maybe I should water, then water the next day. Same for Vanda if in pots of small bark, etc. but if Vanda are hanging on wire, no media they need 2x3 times a day not a week. If you have more than 1-2” bare stems, ie approaching the palm tree look, skinny roots, limp leaves and yellowing leaves - you aren’t watering them enough if hanging on wire or mounted. Vanda never go dormant in winter. They need good light, as high a humidity 70-80% as you can get, lots of breezes on the plants (all orchids want the leaves slightly moving) and temps 70 at night, 80-85 in the day. Light varies for the type of vandaceous they are, but typical strap leaf wants 50% shade or if slowly acclimated some terte types can take full sun but want dappled shade in middle of day. Don’t let them get burned up and end up with unsightly plants or worse, with bacterial infections (yellow halo/ring around the burned area). Depending on where you live ie Florida vs Maine will make this difference as will the type, the humidity and temps. Also for all orchids - constant mild breezes whether natural or fans will help prevent burns. But if temps are high above 90 fans can also dehydrate them, so keep humidity high. Keep in mind that Vandas are heavy feeders. If you use a fertilizer that says 1 tsp per gallon once a week, divide it up over the number of days you water. For Vanda I use a base 12-1-1 (KLite water soluble from First Rays) with full micronutrients, 10% calcium and 3% magnesium at 25-50% maybe 75% when they are full of root tips, it’s at the top of temp range, summer, putting out new growth, etc. 25% in winter unless still in active growth. Be careful with high fertilizer when it’s over 90, or humidity is low. If you know you need to fertilize, then go on and water mounts heavy first and then later in the day when they are still slightly green silvery green, then fertilizer. Less chance of burning root tips when it’s hot and they are dry or haven’t been watered for a day or so. I normally fertilize my mounted or hanging on wire Vandaceous orchids in the morning. That counts as their first watering. The humidity is higher early and they were well water the late afternoon, early evening the night before so will still have some moisture especially in late July and August. Remember plants putting out lots of flowers and leads and leaves need full nutrients and with cattleyas they need those nutrients and certainly calcium for all those new leads coming on like crazy so you don’t get rot.
The greenhouse in the back is looking great Jan ;) Hope you are happy about it so far! Take care.
Thank you :)
I want an update on that GORGEOUS melano in the background 😍😍
I really like tree fern fiber. We have a lot in Puerto Rico. 🪴🐩🌿💚🙋🏼♀️
Very informative thank you it's all the rave over here in NZ in the plant community I haven't tried it myself but will now after your vid.its absolutely freezing over here at mo with snow brrr
Happy growing :) warmer days will come !! :)
Just the video I needed as I just started using it in my poles (only 2 so far) and can't wait to see my results. Appreciate the info, thanks👍🏼
Thanks :)
So helpful! Thank you! I love the way you contextualise everything and try hard to provide evidence :)
Thanks :)
Fantastic video thanks Jan 😘 Answered all I've been wondering about 👍 What do you think about a TFF/sphag moss mix for poles? Cheaper, and moss holds TFF together while TFF helps moss retain moisture ?
Edit: Added info for Aussie followers . I was concerned about shipping costs but 40l bag is $120 and Grow Vertical offers free delivery for orders over $100🥳 (within Aus only)
I’ve been using TFF/moss about 50/50 in my poles and it’s working beautifully. The TFF allows water to distribute more easily, especially if the pole is dry. Plus, it cuts the cost down.
@carolinebaines8735 Thanks Caroline, that sounds ideal. 🤗
Is a great product,and it makes our life easier,👍
💚🌵🌱☘️💚
Another great video.
Very informative! You answered all my questions about tree fern fiber. Thanks!🪴🌿
Happy growing :)
Perfect timing 🤩 I was thinking about giving it a go. Your video is just on time and very helpful 😊 Thank you ❤
Happy growing :)
Its almost unavailable in Europe (unless you live in the UK, there are a couple of shops). I bought it directly from the Distributor Besgrow, I think it was something between 60 and 70 Euros for the 40liter bag, so not too shabby. But thats a general problem here in Germany since covid with Besgrow Products. I just bought some spagmos for 50% of the price from the Netherlands (The only German Online Shop you can order from wants 50 Euros instead of 27 from the Netherlands o_O ). I am only using it for a couple of months now, plants like to root inside, the only con for me is it dries out too quick in a moss pole, does not even last 24 hours. Plants still root nicely into the dry treefern. :)
I'm from NZ as well, and fern (along with pon) is my absolute favorite substrate.
I usually use pon for most things, but in the past year or so I started mixing it with fern because pon is kind of expensive and annoying to source (there's one supplier who sells the big bags and it's out of stock a lot of the time).
I find that pretty much all of my plants love both, so ultimately, it doesn't matter which one I use. Usually, I use pon+fern it pots, mainly to give the pot a bit of weight, so that my poles don't tip over, and then just use fern in the pole itself (I use Thiccly poles).
Sometimes I get very obsessive and mother the shit out of my plants, so I find that adding a pon to my fern also helps with soggyness a bit, and lets me water more, because I just can't help myself haha. I don't think I will ever go back to soil, fern and pon (either alone or together) works for me beyond perfectly.
Don’t read it as a negative comment: 20 years ago, when I started my orchid journey, the fern medium was already in the market and was already flagged as not sustainable. There are not an unlimited number of tree ferns (many are also protected), and are not fast growing. Why don’t use coco chips+coco choir (coco palms are not at risk) + perlite? the results is the same.
Wouldn’t the sustainablity of a renewable source be subject to harvesting practices? But understand that it cannot be sustainably harvested in very large quantities. I have tried coco chips & peat in poles before and have to disagree, my results are nowhere near as good :/
Depends where you've got them from. Fernwood NZ follows the stringest sustainability regulation in NZ, when harvesting theirs. And superior in itself and the results, in comparison to South American or Mexican fern fibre.
@claudio7410
totally agree, they just regrow too slowly and climate changes arent helping, i would also be worried about invasive species just growing faster and taking to the clearings faster than the ferns could regenerate
@sidneyplantguy
honestly treeferns like Dicsonia sp. are some of the most prehistoric looking plants you could ever grow
if i could i would totally collect treeferns in my apartment rather than growing aroids and orchids
there are some gardencenters that save treeferns that would be lost due to road construction etc. get one and grow it to find out just how slowly they grow and how perfect the conditions need to be for them to thrive
still, i am sure it is a fantastic medium, cheers and thanks for your videos
@@danielnewald4758this is Dicksonia fibrosa. Fernwood are only allowed to harvest a certain percentage of standing tree ferns. They also leave the tops to reroot and continue growing. They are basically just giving them a root prune. There is a reason it’s expensive.
@@timbardsley-smith966
Most tree-ferns simply die if the rhyzome is cut, even in Dicsonia antarctica the stumps won't regrow and replanting the tops can easily fail. I don't know enough about this species to know if it would be possible sadly. With enough work it might be "sustainable" and i trust that this is the case here.
Still to me it seems akin to making mulch for your young fruit tree from a 100 year old, award winning bonsai.
Cheers
DN
Very good video. Doing research on this right now to experiment with in my soil mixes. 🙌🖤
This video was on time for me. I have an Anthurium Moodeanum coming and I really dont want to put it in my regular dirt mix (being the plant snob that im really not 🤭😂). I have found where I can get this brand of tree fern fiber. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. I have learned so much from your channel. 💜
How would you say TFF compares to coco coir and when would you use one or the other?
I haven't had good experiences with Coco Coir, it just doesn't have sufficient water retention
I just bought 5 l bag of tree fern fiber. It was very expensive. One of my orchid species grows well only in this substrate. I will try it with my slipper orchid.
Great video as always, thanks for sharing. I was always curious about this substrate and was wondering if it can be used for orchids instead of sphagnum? I haven't looked to see if I can source it in UK but I'm sure it's more expensive than sphagnum!
Yes I’ve heard people use it for their orchids so if you can get your hands on it might be worth trying out :)
Jan...😍 SO BRILLIANT IDEA!..💖.. First thing first, I thank Tim! ( Grow Vertical )..👍.. Jan...😊❤️ I really APPRECIATE You because You use TFF with different Experiments. Because of the mess, they are better used for indoors. Fortunately you have Garden and a new Green House!..❤️💚.. I'm looking forward to watching the Progress of your Plants using TFF there and the Propagation later ( Yes!.. It will be easier but still challenging!.. especially the first experience of that Propagation..😍👍..) Jan...😊 Thank you soo much for this useful Video. ( And there was a Reminder about the Priorities!.. COOL!..🤗..) The Informations and Experiences can give a broad Understanding!..😍.. You showed your Love in order that your Plants can grow Happily!..👍.. ( Our LOVE for Brad always!..😻🐈🤗 ) HAPPY GROWING!..💓. I LOVE IT!!...💞❤️💐🌈🌸🥰😍😻🐈🤗💓..
They can have tree ferns replanted in new plantations, or replace as they take out old ones -- and all plants including trees whether tree fern or not - die at some point. If you are a good plantation or forestry manager of your own property - you want to go in and take out diseased trees, or infested (bugs) trees the same as you would do in your own yard. You have to keep it cleaned out and you are always replacing plants as they complete their life cycle. Some trees may last 25 years like pines and others like oaks might be 75-150 years depending on the type. But if you are harvesting for say lumber you have to catch before bugs or diseases overtake them but the tree has reached its maximum healthy size and age.
Also products like Orchiata which is pinus radiata from NZ which comes from the lumber market, or tree fern can last years. So you aren’t throwing it away so often unless you don’t grow healthy plants and have to. Orchiata I have had it last at least 5 years and when I have moved to a larger pot, it’s still like new.
I have used the Fernwood panels for small orchids, you can mount them to it and just sit in a clay pot or hang up with S hook. It will eventually fall apart, I cut a cage for the board (full or 1/2 panel) for it to hold it the best and the orchid quickly establishes its roots on and through the panel/board and I have several that are going on 4 years and seems fine. Make sure for attaching plants you want to use the thicker 1/2” board not the thinner stuff used to line a reptile environment, terrariums, etc. Note you can attach 2 boards of the thicker stuff and make a cage or buy something that will serve the same purpose and attach the plant on the outside. Con: of fern board is you can just rip the roots off it - it’s best to either just sit in a appropriate clay pot, and fill with Orchiata Super (largest size OEF Orchid Supplies Miami area ) and let the roots move into the bark or just wait until the board disintegrates in its own. Once it gets older it will be easy to sorta break off the outside big chunks with no roots. I don’t t know for sure because after 4 years, mine are still holding together in their little cage, are watered up to 3 times a day and hang in sun so they dry fairly quickly. I don’t water my Vanda until the roots are white again. Water until the turn green - takes water for several minutes until green, wait 10 minutes and water until dark green. Don’t mistake algae or fertilizer green for the roots being well watered.
Sphagnum moss has to be changed out of the pot every 6-18 months if you want the plant to grow well because it becomes highly acidic, it’s already acidic like 3 for plants that want to be ideal at 5.5-6.5. When fresh it has the ability to buffer itself but not as it gets old. And with moss, it gets super soggy, or super dry. It doesn’t smell good - not my favorite.
On the loose fern in the bag, the roots will pretty much fill the pot and in clear pots you can see the roots as to when you need to water. But absolutely it will fall off cleanly and if moving to a larger pot, you just put a little in bottom to raise the plant up if needed, and sit the plant in new pot and fill in around it provided your plant and roots are healthy. If healthy it already has good microbes, and if using a good probiotic then you don’t disturb the community of healthy things.
Basically do the same with Orchiata. When Vanda get larger than the fern panels, I sorta pre anticipate and if a climber use the largest I can get but once they outgrow this - I will just attach to a large piece of virgin cork wood. When it fills that up it will be more than ready to separate into smaller sections.
How often do you water your plants? I'm from Melb.
Thanks!
Thank you so much:) appreciate it
😻 love the pudding ❤
Thanks :)
Could you please tell me what perlite you are using? I got mine from Bunnings with the brand named Brunning and it looks more like a styrene foam cup that has been broken into pieces. Yours look more biggier, and harder which I prefer.
I was thinking it was Pumice not perlite.
I get a chunky perlite from Growing Grounds
*link in description :)
Good info, thanks Jan. I wasn't sure whether it was worth it. What would you think as a mix of sphagnum moss and tree ferns fibre? Too messy?... Also, is that an Alocasia cuprea in the background? It's gorgeous! How do you manage to get it to grow that big? Mine is an absolute magnet for mealybugs and spider mites. It grows well between 2 infestation episodes.
Thanks :) a mix should totally work :) I have a full video on my cuprea but spoiler alert.... not sure why my cuprea is such an overachiever :D ua-cam.com/video/jA-lPKxfp0s/v-deo.html
Thanks for this video m8! Im about to repot my thai constellation because it doesn’t want to give me big fenestrations despite being at southern exposition and having very good feed. Want to add pole because maybe this is the reason. Would you recommend xaxim for pole? Or would you mix it with something other? What proportions?
Also a way to calculate how many liters to get per pole. :D
I don’t have my thai on a pole and it’s maturing fine. It’s a deliciosa after all, very easy going so don’t think you need to worry too much about what you support your pole with, it’s pretty flexible :) moss would be fine or a combination of TFF, perlite & bark :) I never measure, I just wing it :)
@@sydneyplantguy Hehe ye i wont it too most of The time. ;) Just sometimes I order too little or too much 😅 Want it on a pole because for creeping on ground it would take a lot of space. And living on a 80 sq meters with 500 plants is not an easy feat! 😂
£24.99 for ten litres here n the UK, double it for Oz $'s
Would you say it's so good that it's worth double to sphagnum moss? Unfortunately in UK the cost of it at the moment is around double to sphagnum, but I'm still eyeing it 😅
It’s probably not twice as good, so if sphagnum moss works well for you I’d just stick with it :)
@@sydneyplantguy thanks for the reply 😊 I will keep an eye on it in case there will be some price drop as it is something I would like to try but yeah, not complaining about sphagnum.
Would coco coir be a comparable option?
Not really, it has very poor water retention.
Could the tree fern fiber be mixed with coco coir and help with airflow in the soil still without having to use solely tree fern? Much appreciated!
Yes :)
Thank you for this vidéo 🌿💚🇫🇷🙏
What are you using for your moss pole like the back part of it very clean I love it
I have a link in the description :)
Great video as usual !! Thank you 😊
Hello. Great vid. Do you ever combine sphagnum moss and tree fern fiber to make poles?
Never tried :)
Can it made from grinded-up old fronds? Do you have to destroy the whole tree? Years ago when I started our tree ferns I heard not to trash the old fronds bc they make great mulch. Seems like this is what they're talking about. Anyhow, going to start using the old fronds this way to see
🙏 PLEASE HELP! 2 weeks ago, I made a D-style pole for my Manjula. I followed your recipe for aroids. In order to keep the mix in the pole, I put a light layer of New Zealand treefern across the bottom (side were holes allow roots to grow in), then filled it with your aroid mix recipe. Within the pot, I also have your aroid mix. I did tap the pot onto the table 2-3 times, because I need to get more substrate around the roots, which contacted it slightly. I was so happy, because the loose roots of one cutting along the stem actually started to dig into the fiber already. 2 leaves started to unravel and 1 new leaf in also developing. BRarely any transplant shock! Since I have clear pots, I only watered twice, once there was no more "fog" in the pot. This morning I wake up to take a peak......now there is MOLD ON THE FIBERS. I really don't think it is lack of araetion. I have them on a 2.5 meter window sill with 2 other plants. (A 4 yr old orchid, a new tower for a Monstera cutting with 3 leaves - none have this issue) And as all Germans, I have my balcony door open almost all day. Because we have had a super crappy summer with little sunshine, I also have a grow light that radiates onto the Manjula. So far only where there are no leaves (where the light hits onto the pole directly), is where the N.Z. Treefern Fiber is evenly growing mold on each little fiber. What should I do? When I read up in orchid communities that use NZ Treefern Fiber, one article states it is actually good for the biological breakdown and plants. Do you know anything about this? I can't have this! I'm an asthmatic and any form of mold (good or bad) is not good for me. Please advice how I can get rid of it. 🙏
Mm odd, never happened to me. Usually it would be due to airflow. UV light also kills mould so it’s odd that the part exposed to the light is showing signs of mould. I would try and improve airflow further if u can and be more conservative with the watering :)
Thank you. On Sunday, I can pick out that top layer the molded fibers. I will then sprinkle cinnamon over it. Lol...crazy attempt....I'm going fill a plastic syringe w. cinnamon and "blow it into the the remaining NZ Ferntree layer. Then I'll turn on an additional ventilator. But you're right! The I need to adjust the watering. This is the first time I am working with this medium. I have already come to realized it truly stays moist longer. In this case I think less is more.
✨️Honestly, Jan, THANK YOU FOR RESPONDING WITH YOUR THOUGHTS❣️
In our area tree fern fiber is extremely cheap
You have a beautiful cat!
Curious: have you (or any viewers) ever used pafcal? It’s a sponge like material originally developed by the Toyota Suntory Group.
I will be curious about what other people’s experience are with them, especially in comparison with other substrates.
I had it when I bought plants from Muji and they all grew really well. My spider plant for some reason shot 25+ pups within 2 months, and it is not a large plant at all.
I got a hold of some pafcal in chip form and lately I began to mix a bit into the aroid mix to give a slightly more water retention.
Again, would love to hear what others experiences are with them.
I’ve never even heard about it :O
Excellent video.
Thank you.
Are the tree fern slabs the same as the poles? I found a place in Canada 🇨🇦 that sells them.
Yes and no :) same product but it would be harder to use it for propagation purposes as you’d have to break it apart to free the roots
Given me ideas for certain plants I have to grow when possible
tree fern is soooo last month thing!🙈 now people are crazy about stratum , another overhyped substrate, at least here in EU
Curious: If it's the perfect mix of aeration and water delivery, why augment with perlite?
Create more volume inexpensively
I was hoping that was the answer and not a mix fix. Still trying to convince die-hard mix fans that you don't have to mix anymore. :) TFF is all I use. Big fan of it and of you. Keep up the inspirational work! @@sydneyplantguy
120 is a dinner for two. That was a date, wasn't it? Because for me, it's about $30 😅
Haha no that’s just normal Friday dinner (+ drinks hehe) $30 is one main meal these days 😢
I keep watching your videos I am trying to figure out how do you keep the pot from falling off when you hang the pot? I am confused
It’s just held in there by the potting mix & eventually the roots :)
I heard it got high pH any info on it?
That’s too scientific for me :P if the plants are growing in it, then it must have a suitable pH for them, that’s all I care about :)
In the USA its 40 bucks free delivery....AMAZON......
I spy a SPG shirt! Will there be official merch??
Maybe one day :) for now I just made one for myself :)
What about a mix of tree fern fibre and sphagnum moos? :)
Should work perfectly fine:)
Heyy, how about a new tree fern fiber video update, highly appreciated if you did 😍
But tree ferns are so beautiful. I'd never use them. They take ages to grow and I find it hard to believe that deforestation could ever be sustainable. 😭
NZ is heavily regulated so not to worry :)
I wonder how many hours you have under your belt separating moss and rots 😂
Daaaays!!!
Was hoping you were gonna compare how much gas 120 bucks can get you, but I just remembered that you don’t drive much, since “2 meals” also depends on a lot of factors. Also, nice legs!
Wow Amazon sells it, so do private nursuries.....😊
🌿🐱🌿
Pourquoi vous ne traduirezer pas en francais
💚🪴 💚
💚🌿💚🤔😻😺
You lie about sustainability 😂 you should do a longterm video journal on a section of harvested tree fern forrest
I didn’t :) I even spoke to the company directly about their practices :)
Priorities right 😅 I would rather get plant substrates than jewelry,😂 but that’s me! My friends and family know me really well…. Great video as I was looking for some information on TFF…. Natalie 🫶🏼🪴🍃
Thanks :)