Thank you for the help sir! I just spliced both sensor wires together without cutting neither wires. It worked on a 1999 sienna. Both wires are clear instead of black and clear. When looking at the biggest connector, they are the two wires on the bottom and are seperated from the rest of the wires with blocked slots for a pin connector.
Awesome video, thanks . I have a 2003 Lexus ES300 that was throwing a P0330 code. I cut the black wire and spliced the two and I got two codes P0330 & P0325 that both were bad, so I reversed it, I resoldered the black wire, shrink tubed it and I cut the clear wire and spliced the two and worked perfectly!! Both codes gone. Thank you very much!
Two wires from engine to connector. One Black and one clear. One is for bank 1 and other bank two. You want the computer to ‘see’ the good bank on both of the inputs. You can cut both wires, twist the black & clear from connector side together, this way both inputs see same thing. Then connect both to black wire from engine. You will either fix the problem, or now they will both be bad (this what happened to me). So then I disconnected the black wire from engine and connected clear wire from engine to both clear & black twisted together from connector. Now computer sees clear wire on both channels… this fixed problem for me.
Agreed. I watched a similar vid and I did this last year to my mom's Rx300. Light went out and issue of no over drive was solved. Been about 8k miles so far. Nothing wrong.
I can’t believe this worked on my RX, I just got a 2000 rx300.. check engine light on for knock sensors, a vvti sensor ( p1354 ) and an air/fuel ratio code (forgot the code number). Drive the car for 2 hours back home.. noticed it was super sluggish and I didn’t have 4th gear.. would stay locked into 3 no matter how much throttle I gave it until I can to a stop and it disengage. But overall just super sluggish performance.. did this little have and all my problems went away.. got all my gears, no codes at all (drove for abt 20 miles going 55-60) and still nothing.. noticeably better shifting and performance!
Ok, reposting, both bank1 and bank 2 knock sensors share the same color wire (white) the black wire is the ground wire. Connecting the black wire to the white wire or jumping them together at the ECU connector regardless if bank1 is good and bank2 is bad cancels the signal to the ECU and turns off the dash error light. The ECU will basically be operating as if there is no bank 1 or bank 2 knock sensors.
I agree to the one guys posts, we need to know what are the color of the wires for bank 1 knock sensor and bank 2 knock sensor to know which wire to splice into which wire. That question is very important and never addressed in this video or comments ??
Thank You, I had a Bad bank 2 p0330 code, Your Mod worked Great for my 2002 RX300 would not shift into overdrive, It NOW does, check engine light went off All is good, come summer I will Maybe lol do the job of replacing the Knock sensor, thanks again Stay Well,
@Bam Ram to be honest my Trans still has a hard time shifting into 3rd gear(last gear) but if I shut the car off and restart its fine again, I think this summer we are going to replace the knock sensors, best of luck from Michigan
Don’t bother. 4 hours of work, with many complications, O/E knock sensors, replaced connectors. I started with bank 1 code, ended up with bank 1 code. 😡 35 year tech. Everything torqued specifically. (Very important on knock sensors) I’ve never hated an outcome more.
According to the wiring diagram, there's 2 white wires, knock 1 and knock 2. Black is ground. On the video it only shows 1 white wire, that I can see. I noticed you only cut the black, (ground) and spliced it into the white knock sensor. I have a 2001 Lexus es300 with a 1mzfe. Which is the same as the RX 300. I already replaced both knock sensors and the harness. Still I have the light coming back on. I cleaned my mass air flow, still comes back on. Motor has a new denso plugs, my o2 sensors are working as they should. Now I'm just driving it with my scanner plugged in, when the light comes on I just clear it. Ground for the knock sensors are located behind the upper intake manifold ( 10 mm bolt) that bolt is tight and cleaned the connections.
Bro both of my wires are clear too! I just stripped both wires of it's insulation, crimped them together and some electrical tape. Voila, check engine light went off as soon as I fired her up!
There are only single wires to the knock sensors. They ground to the block, like a spark plug. I’m confused as to why there would be a ground at the harness? Doesn’t make sense.
Unfortunately BOTH sensors need to be replaced, can’t do the hack. I was disappointed. I just keep pulling over and re-starting my vehicle when it’s over 3K rpm. They want at least $1800 at the dealership to repair, and valve cover gaskets? They want another $5 or 6 hun.
I did this hack. And now instead of the bank 2 throwing code po330 I'm now getting both bank 2 po330 and bank 1 po325?????? Strange considering the engine never threw a bank 1 po325 code.... ever.... until I spliced the wires like this, any advice
Then it was bank 1 that was the issue. There’s 1 wire for bank 1 and 1 wire for bank 2. You need to know which one is bad to know which wire to splice. Black is just the ground! In his video he failed to say which sensor was the bad one. I would just change the sensors and the wires connected to each sensor.
Checking to see if you just clipped the black wire, right? Then put the untouched clear wire in the outside channel of the splice connector, then the black wire in the inside channel? Did you strip the black wire at all, or just let the metal crimp part make the connection when you closed it? At the very end of the video you actually answer my question "Don't have to strip wires back and solder anything". Great!…..And now after checking the codes…wait for it…..BOTH Knock Sensors are bad, as well as 2 Air Fuel Sensors…Arrrrghhh!
Bad idea. The computer won't have the ability to pull timing on one bank if it doesn't know there is pre-ignition taking place. I would use mid-grade or premium fuel to prevent knocking. Have it fixed properly; the vehicle is worth it.
Not a good idea unless you burn premium fuel always. Otherwise, some level of pre-detonation will very likely exponentially wear out the engine. I feel bad for the person you dumped the vehicle on. Pretty dishonest and if he sees your video, I would be concerned. The knock sensor is a microphone that listens to your engine and makes real-time adjustments to the ignition timing and fuel air mixture to maximize fuel burn for optimal fuel economy and emissions. It keeps the engine balanced and an out of balanced engine pollutes more and wears out much faster. I recently replaced both knock sensors on a 2002 RX300 and it is not that big of a deal for a mechanic. Just buy premium knock Japanese sensors, not from China. They are junk. During the test drive I has able to register 28 mpg on a 19 mile run, much better than the 16 mpg it was getting with the engine running in "fail-safe" mode with the bad knock sensor. Compression test on all cylinders showed 192-198 psi at 223,000 miles. I expect the engine to make 500,000 if properly maintained. Seriously, please think about living with a bit more integrity.
Well I went to Auto Zone to get , replacement parts and he watched a video and then said the job would take 6- 8 hrs!!😮 Does anybody knows please comment. I need help!
Thank you for the help sir! I just spliced both sensor wires together without cutting neither wires. It worked on a 1999 sienna. Both wires are clear instead of black and clear. When looking at the biggest connector, they are the two wires on the bottom and are seperated from the rest of the wires with blocked slots for a pin connector.
p0330 it worked for my 2002 lexus rx 300 did'nt have to cut no wires i just joined them 2 together
Awesome video, thanks . I have a 2003 Lexus ES300 that was throwing a P0330 code. I cut the black wire and spliced the two and I got two codes P0330 & P0325 that both were bad, so I reversed it, I resoldered the black wire, shrink tubed it and I cut the clear wire and spliced the two and worked perfectly!! Both codes gone. Thank you very much!
Having same issue. When you say "spliced the two" are you saying you cut the clear wire and connected them to the black?
Two wires from engine to connector. One Black and one clear. One is for bank 1 and other bank two. You want the computer to ‘see’ the good bank on both of the inputs. You can cut both wires, twist the black & clear from connector side together, this way both inputs see same thing. Then connect both to black wire from engine. You will either fix the problem, or now they will both be bad (this what happened to me). So then I disconnected the black wire from engine and connected clear wire from engine to both clear & black twisted together from connector. Now computer sees clear wire on both channels… this fixed problem for me.
Agreed. I watched a similar vid and I did this last year to my mom's Rx300. Light went out and issue of no over drive was solved. Been about 8k miles so far. Nothing wrong.
2nd 02 sensor went so had to do a complete job. All Toyota oem parts $900 with my mechanic. Well worth it
I can’t believe this worked on my RX, I just got a 2000 rx300.. check engine light on for knock sensors, a vvti sensor ( p1354 ) and an air/fuel ratio code (forgot the code number). Drive the car for 2 hours back home.. noticed it was super sluggish and I didn’t have 4th gear.. would stay locked into 3 no matter how much throttle I gave it until I can to a stop and it disengage. But overall just super sluggish performance.. did this little have and all my problems went away.. got all my gears, no codes at all (drove for abt 20 miles going 55-60) and still nothing.. noticeably better shifting and performance!
Ok, reposting, both bank1 and bank 2 knock sensors share the same color wire (white) the black wire is the ground wire. Connecting the black wire to the white wire or jumping them together at the ECU connector regardless if bank1 is good and bank2 is bad cancels the signal to the ECU and turns off the dash error light. The ECU will basically be operating as if there is no bank 1 or bank 2 knock sensors.
so the car will run normally then?
both of my sensors are bad unfortunately
Works just as advertised
Superb hack! Rx300. Worked great and still is 300 miles later uk
Glad to hear It.
I agree to the one guys posts, we need to know what are the color of the wires for bank 1 knock sensor and bank 2 knock sensor to know which wire to splice into which wire. That question is very important and never addressed in this video or comments ??
I'm just going from another video that I watched and cutting the black wire and slicing it to the clear wire worked for me.
Thank You, I had a Bad bank 2 p0330 code, Your Mod worked Great for my 2002 RX300 would not shift into overdrive, It NOW does, check engine light went off All is good, come summer I will Maybe lol do the job of replacing the Knock sensor, thanks again Stay Well,
Will this work for a 2003 es 300?
@Bam Ram to be honest my Trans still has a hard time shifting into 3rd gear(last gear) but if I shut the car off and restart its fine again, I think this summer we are going to replace the knock sensors, best of luck from Michigan
Don’t bother. 4 hours of work, with many complications, O/E knock sensors, replaced connectors.
I started with bank 1 code, ended up with bank 1 code. 😡
35 year tech. Everything torqued specifically. (Very important on knock sensors)
I’ve never hated an outcome more.
it worked like a charm lol
What code you had? Was it the P0330 bank 2? Is the clear wire bank 1 and the black bank 2 ? Could you please telll me since my bank 2 is bad
I actually don't remember I'd have to watch the video to refresh my memory
According to the wiring diagram, there's 2 white wires, knock 1 and knock 2. Black is ground. On the video it only shows 1 white wire, that I can see. I noticed you only cut the black, (ground) and spliced it into the white knock sensor. I have a 2001 Lexus es300 with a 1mzfe. Which is the same as the RX 300. I already replaced both knock sensors and the harness. Still I have the light coming back on. I cleaned my mass air flow, still comes back on. Motor has a new denso plugs, my o2 sensors are working as they should. Now I'm just driving it with my scanner plugged in, when the light comes on I just clear it. Ground for the knock sensors are located behind the upper intake manifold ( 10 mm bolt) that bolt is tight and cleaned the connections.
I would just keep searching UA-cam videos maybe you will find the answer
Where is the ground behind upper intake manifold exactly. Does it have to be l
Bro both of my wires are clear too! I just stripped both wires of it's insulation, crimped them together and some electrical tape. Voila, check engine light went off as soon as I fired her up!
Thank you pal, how did it work out in the long run?
2 months later it's still working
Tq sir..😁
Thank you for the video can you please tell me where you got the splice connector
I happened to have one but you could get them at any hardware store
@@drivewaygarage1561 How did it hold up did the check engine light ever come back
@@carrerawilson816great question
There are only single wires to the knock sensors. They ground to the block, like a spark plug. I’m confused as to why there would be a ground at the harness? Doesn’t make sense.
Exactly what mine was doing then my motor all the sudden seized! I guess I wish I seen this sooner
You probably had something wrong with the engine that's why it seized. Sorry to hear that.
Thanks ✅
You're welcome
Unfortunately BOTH sensors need to be replaced, can’t do the hack. I was disappointed. I just keep pulling over and re-starting my vehicle when it’s over 3K rpm. They want at least $1800 at the dealership to repair, and valve cover gaskets? They want another $5 or 6 hun.
Tried this hack but check engine light went off for a little bit then back on. Guessing both of my knock sensors are bad?
So let me guess! The guy didn't buy the car because he saw your video! 🤣🤣🤣
I'm still driving it, it works great
My 2000 RX300 is ginve me code. "P0325 Knock sensor 1 circuit". not sure which color is which...
I have this code along with a p0500 (speed sensor) amd a ABS light on.
Do you think this would solve it ?
In might fix part of your problems.
I did this hack. And now instead of the bank 2 throwing code po330 I'm now getting both bank 2 po330 and bank 1 po325?????? Strange considering the engine never threw a bank 1 po325 code.... ever.... until I spliced the wires like this, any advice
No sorry, unless you spliced it wrong.
@@drivewaygarage1561 splice black into clear, exactly like your video
Then it was bank 1 that was the issue. There’s 1 wire for bank 1 and 1 wire for bank 2. You need to know which one is bad to know which wire to splice. Black is just the ground! In his video he failed to say which sensor was the bad one. I would just change the sensors and the wires connected to each sensor.
Checking to see if you just clipped the black wire, right? Then put the untouched clear wire in the outside channel of the splice connector, then the black wire in the inside channel? Did you strip the black wire at all, or just let the metal crimp part make the connection when you closed it? At the very end of the video you actually answer my question "Don't have to strip wires back and solder anything". Great!…..And now after checking the codes…wait for it…..BOTH Knock Sensors are bad, as well as 2 Air Fuel Sensors…Arrrrghhh!
what happened ??
@@kee7678 It turns out BOTH sensors are bad, can’t do the hack.
@@badcopnodonut607 wow! Thank you sir! Good luck, I hope you got it fixed.
Bad idea. The computer won't have the ability to pull timing on one bank if it doesn't know there is pre-ignition taking place. I would use mid-grade or premium fuel to prevent knocking. Have it fixed properly; the vehicle is worth it.
Nothing wrong with the engine the knock sensor is bad
👍I have a 2000 harrier how do I know the 2 y her please an thanks
Sorry but I don't know
I don’t think i would cut any wires coming out computer I do it right way tomorrow
Probably a good idea, I didn't want to go to all the work.
@@drivewaygarage1561 good idea I was tempted to do it thank you for the video
Will this work for a 2003 es 300?
I'm not sure but I think so.
Not a good idea unless you burn premium fuel always. Otherwise, some level of pre-detonation will very likely exponentially wear out the engine. I feel bad for the person you dumped the vehicle on. Pretty dishonest and if he sees your video, I would be concerned. The knock sensor is a microphone that listens to your engine and makes real-time adjustments to the ignition timing and fuel air mixture to maximize fuel burn for optimal fuel economy and emissions. It keeps the engine balanced and an out of balanced engine pollutes more and wears out much faster. I recently replaced both knock sensors on a 2002 RX300 and it is not that big of a deal for a mechanic. Just buy premium knock Japanese sensors, not from China. They are junk. During the test drive I has able to register 28 mpg on a 19 mile run, much better than the 16 mpg it was getting with the engine running in "fail-safe" mode with the bad knock sensor. Compression test on all cylinders showed 192-198 psi at 223,000 miles. I expect the engine to make 500,000 if properly maintained. Seriously, please think about living with a bit more integrity.
It's my personal vehicle so I guess I can do whatever I want
Thank you for the heads up sir! Im burning premium fuel currently, and plan to just drive it easy until my Japanese oem come in from ebay.
This is the smart ass comments that pissed me off because these cars are high mileage! Mechanics want to screw you over on parts like this!
Well I went to Auto Zone to get , replacement parts and he watched a video and then said the job would take 6- 8 hrs!!😮 Does anybody knows please comment. I need help!
I also heard that replacing the bank sensor is a long process. That's why I didn't do it.