Loved the video but you left one major part out.Doing this can throw of the idle control when turning back on. Drive for about 10 miles to bring back ti normal.
Those little details you give like not moving the throttle body metal plate, the necessary torque to tighten bolts… after looking at so many videos to replace the spark plugs on my IS….this is the one I needed! Thank you, not only for the instructions and demonstration but also the very educated and detailed insight!
I wanted to follow up by letting you know that I successfully completed my spark plug replacement in my IS. I recovered 30% fuel efficiency and probably similar HP/Torque recovery. That I you for giving me the confidence to get this done by myself!!
I'm glad you found my video useful. I get complaints all the time that my videos are too detailed but the way I look at things is that the devil IS in the details and omissions of critical information can be disastrous to those that don't know much about fixing cars. Glad it all worked out for you!
Thank you for your quality videos! I recently bought an '08 IS250 Base A/T for my wife. I did not realize it at the time of purchase that the car we had bought had staggered rims. I am a novice home mechanic, at best. Upon further research, I came to the conclusion that unless one were to make a tire changing station at home, only a tech would install staggered rims on a vehicle. As it turned out, the owner's husband was previously a Lexus tech, now wkg for BMW. I have had my share of disappointments with at least 30 technicians, the majority of them unwilling to do what it takes to get the job done right the first time. Thanks to people like you, who care enough to share your skills & knowledge on YT, I can pursue my own repairs with a certain amount of confidence. The car's obd2 has recently thrown up some cylinder misfire warnings to tell me it's time to replace the spark plugs (and likely the coils while I'm at it). I will replay your video another 5x before I attempt the teardown in order to get to the spark plugs. In the video, you showed the NGK plugs, and your link points to Denso 4705 plugs. The link from my local Lexus dealership identified Denso FK20HBR11 as the plugs for my wife's car, although Amazon's fitment algorithm indicates that the 4705 plugs will fit. Considering that the car is now over 14 yrs old, I would prefer to spend my money on what gives me the best durability. Do you have a preference? If YT allow, I will include the link to the dealership page: parts.lexusofconcord.com/p/Lexus_2008_IS-250-AT/Spark-Plug/62975795/9091901249.html
Hey Neil, sorry for taking forever to reply. Yes you're correct in the listings vary for the plugs and for absolutely certainty for fitment you can get them from the local Lexus dealership. Ultimately if you go with the 4705 plugs you should be fine as I vaguely remember that was what I used. Personally I'm a NGK plug person but sometimes affiliate links from Amazon doesn't always have the plugs available to link in my videos. Having said, that my preference of plugs? Denso supplies Toyota with sparks plus and NGK supplies Honda with their plugs. Naturally, I use both and like both equally as much. Hope that helps.
Thank you for the detailed instructions. Thank you for the clarity and lack of waffle. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to make and post this video. The best IS250 spark plug-change tutorial to date, by far.
Thank you for being so kind and I'm super happy that you like my video. Not all my videos flow this smoothly - its an evolution of my presentation skills and I'm glad you came across one of my better ones :)
Changed spark plugs today, look at your tutorial 4 times, changed everything in 2 hours instead of pay $350 to mechanic, thank you very much, very helpful video.
I used this excellent tutorial video for the second time today when replacing my plugs on my 2014 IS250! Thank you so much for making such a detailed amazing video!! 🙌🏼
Excellent tutorial! I’ll be replacing plugs and coils on my daughter’s 2008 IS250 this weekend and this was very helpful. Subscribed so I can get help on other maintenance. I’m a confident mechanic, but now I see why the shop charges more - although doing it myself I can change the plugs and all coils for less than they’d do just the plugs.
Glad you liked the tutorial! I used to work at a shop doing this type of work all day long and it isn't so much just the labor costs but the overhead it costs to run a shop. Shops can be so so wasteful for things like rags, cleaners and just general laziness of techs which drives up operational costs for the dealership. In the end, I left the dealership and went off on my own and even though some of my cars have warranty on them that I forgo warranty b/c I have major trust issues with the dealer/shops messing with my cars. I don't think I've ever gone to one that hasn't screwed up something. I have very good memory of where things belong and what fasteners look like. The moment I raise my car up on my own hoist to see what was done I immediately knew they substituted screws out b/c they dropped mine into the drainage pit and didn't bother going to the parts department to get the matching screw to put in its place.... stuff like that drives me BAT SHIT CRAZY and I'm leaving the dealership pissed off. No thanks... nobody can do work better than myself for MY cars because I actually care about what I do. Good job on you for taking on this task!
Inspired! I like when you giving out details over the nooks and crannies of removing the intake manifold, it’s a bit of work just to replace 3 spark plugs on the other side but it is what it is and I learn a lot from here. I just bought a 2007 IS300 yesterday and it’s around 198000KM mileage. I will get my hands dirty on those plugs today. You deserve my sub and like. 👍🏻
At first when I looked in my motor I was like damn it’s gonna be a pain. But watching your video in great detail gave me the confidence that I can replace the plugs. Awesome video
i m about 144k on my original plugs,...i think its time to replace, the car has being running great, i have being procrastinating. Thank you for the video tutorial, im addressing this service by the end of the week.
A good 'Rule of Thumb' is 'Would l let this guy work on my Car ?' Well this guy would be very welcome to work on MY car - and that is a big compliment - l'm avery 'picky' individual !!! Bravo Pierce, for an excellent, detailed Video !!! But please clean all the engine components before you close everything up, as l posted in my earlier Comment/s.
Glad you liked the video. I replied to your other comment and DO appreciate the feedback and completely agree that anything that is being worked on should be 100% clean.
Wato here from australia. Just replaced my plugs with this tutorials help it was excellent. Just a few differences with a right hand drive model. We don't have the fuel connection into the manifold which is one less step, but make up for it by having an electrical connector at the back of the manifold, virtually impossible to get to to disconnect and you cant remove the manifold without disconnecting it so i just cut the holder, won't effect anything. Other difficult bolt was the one holding the manifold to the throttle body, fairly easy to get off but a pain to replace, i dropped mine and it disappeared lol so shove plenty of rags under the throttle body to catch it, a magnetic screwdriver is handy as well to retrieve it. I replaced the gaskets but the old ones looked ok, also replaced the throttle body gasket while the manifold was off, doubt ill be doing it again thank goodness. Added bonus the car started and runs like a champ!
Glad you liked my video. Hopefully your plug replacement will go without a hitch. Here's a tip - make sure you order the fuel line gasket that bolts onto the intake manifold. I've had quite a few comments on where to get the gaskets and my answer is always Toyota/Lexus. Give them your VIN and they will be able to pull up the specific parts diagram that will show the part #. SUPER important since you're dealing with fuel (despite barely having any fuel in that line you have to remove).
Hi Pierce are they the two AL washers on the banjo bolt? Also im looking for a clip to remove the radiator.-im replacing water pump, thermostat, radiator, rad hoses & serpentine belt- do you still have your IS?@@piercedasian
If this is how all mechanics care of every car they work on then I would feel very confident to have my car worked on by them which I know it's unlikely. I want my car worked on by this guy! I watched this video to change the spark plugs in my daughters car but after watching how much you have to remove then more than likely I'll be having several left over screws😅
aww thanks! I get that comment a lot from my clients which is why I guess I keep fixing cars the way I do. I actually care about what I do and am not paid by the hour to complete the job. I'd rather take my time doing it right than hacking it b/c I'm trying to "beat the clock". Yes there is quite a bit to remove just take your time, take pictures if you must and place the bolts on a table that has the same "positioning" as they would on your engine. ie bolts from the back driver's side would sit on the top right corner of a table. This ways you have a general sense of where things got removed from and where they need to go back.
Thanks for very good video,good job you worked very cleanly and patiently,please show more video about Lexus IS 250 2009 because I have a Lexus,thank you so much 🙏👏👏
Great video! Now make a video about the tire pressure light that you have because I just had it pop up this week and I wanna know how to fix that problem too.
Good vid I like how you work. I’d say the only thing is don’t worry about fuel spraying from that line it’s simply for cold start it’s not under constant pressure like the main fuel rail. I’d also recommend blowing debris off the engine before removing the manifold if you have compressed air.
clear to the point, covers safety concerns, tone of voice - one of the best series for these repairs on the is250. Thank you very much. How about rear shock assembly replacements? :O)
Very well demonstration of how to replace spark plugs. I have a 2007 Lexus E S 350...I think basically it should be the same way,if not can you please advise me. I bought it about just over a year ago with about 320,000 kilometers on it. It is a very beautiful vehicle. Basically all what i did on it service the brakes and installed a set of new tires on it.
Hey that was a great job. You were very thorough. I need to replace my spark plugs and I am going to watch this video again when I do. But I also want to replace my O2 sensor I hope that you have a video on that as well.
Glad you liked the video. I don't have a video on the o2 sensor replacement since the car in this video has a perfectly working o2 sensor still. One day when it does need replacing I will do a video.
@@piercedasian ok. I found out how to replace one it is under the battery. I was told by mechanics that usually work on older cars that the O2 sensor was with the spark plugs. And I saw in this video that this wasn't the case.
Great step-by-step instructions. I like your advice to stuff clean rags or paper towel into the intake ports, but my OCD will compell me to wipe everything down before the intake manifold comes off, and to use a shop vac to suck up debris around the spark plug openings to ensure nothing gets in those openings. Wondering if its a good idea to put a dab of dielectric grease onto the electrical connectors (and their gaskets), as well as the spark plug boots when reassembling?
yep for sure. On some cars that are really dirty and gritty I will actually take the engine to wash it down at a high pressure wash bay. In this car's case it wasn't too bad at all so I didn't bother. As for the dielectric grease, I would suggest against doing that as the seals in the japanese cars in particular are very good quality and the last thing you want is dirt sticking to the grease and then lingering on the connector such that the next time you plug in the connector that you're now jamming a connected covered in dirty grease back on and thus potentially compromising the seal.
@@piercedasian Did the plug change yesterday on my 2011 IS250 at 133,000 km. The connectors on the plug coils are fragile, and one of the tabs broke off. I had to secure the connection with a zip tie upon re-assembly. Apparently, this is an issue with many Toyota/Lexus wiring harnesses. It looks like the 4 pin plug can be disassembled so that the "shell" can be replaced. That said, the one that broke on my car was on the driver's side, buried under the intake plenum, so I think that I will leave it as is. Otherwise, your video was very informative. Cheers!
Hey so I just did my spark plugs and the check vsc light came on saying the code is "p2017" "Intake manifold Runner position sensor/switch Circuit high bank 1a" Any insight on what could cause it? I changed the intake plenum gaskets, all three of them and the throttle body gasket as well.
hmm, did you connect up all your wiring harnesses properly and did they fully seat and "lock"? Intake runner sensor is one of the sensors that you'd need to unplug to remove the intake manifold from the motor. Sorry it took me forever to reply. Been insanely busy with kids and "life".
For the back bolt remove the injector from the 2 10mm bolts on the injector attaching it to the intake. Watch out for that o-ring. This will free up much needed space for working and actually seeing the bolt for removal. The best tool is a break-neck socket with a 12mm socket. Get a cheap one at harbor freight or where ever. Also, after seating the intake for re-install do not tighten bolts yet, because a little bit of "wiggling" will be needed to reinstall the infamous back-bolt and the other one holding the intake near the throttle body.
Amazing diy video on this. Need to get this done on my wife's 2011 is250. I visited your channel and your avatar pic is a prelude. Niiceee! I have an electron blue pearl 2001 manual. Its my baby =]
Glad you liked my video. A 2001 electron blue pearl lude'. Nice. I loved the Prelude and shame on Honda for discontinuing it along with so many of their awesome sport cars. I hope they really get back into the game of making more sports oriented cards like the Prelude and S2k.
I love the IS generations except the last one, that front grill is such a bummer. I replaced the 4 spark plugs on my 1995 Honda Accord EX and man it is so much easier than the 6 cyl cars. I love the newest Honda Accord V6 coupes, don't you? I wonder how easy they are to do the standard maintenance on like fluid changes and spark plugs? Thanks for the detailed vids. Not everyone on YT has the patience to include every single precaution like you that is so important for a beginning wrencher.
As you tell from my channel I am very much a Honda guy. My Toyota truck is my 1st toyota that I purchased but I still wish it were a honda. So much easier to service their cars especially their V6 engines compared to Toyotas. Doesn't mean I don't like Toyota though... I love my Tundra and loved the Camry my father used to loan me to drive. The latest accord V6 coupe is a slick looking car. Fully agree with you that it's purdy... Yes this gen of IS was nice looking. The new ones really botched the front grill.... I don't like them at all. Fluids and such are relatively easy. Brake fluid flushing is done exactly the same way as I show in my Honda brake fluid flush video. Tranny fluid is easy to do as well but my understanding is some toyotas don't have user serviceable trannys anymore. On this gen of IS I believe it can be done easily using the Toyota WS fluid. I haven't done the tranny on this one but I think it is the same as previous toyotas. Yes devils are in the details. May YT assume people know what they're doing. I treat everyone like they're new to the wrenching game so you can't possibly screw up with my vids. Knowledge is power right?
good job 👍I enjoyed the video I think it help't me allot, basically because every thing was clearly shown step step, and carefully serviced nice job man And quickly next time don't forget to disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid risking an electrical error,or oes sensor failure one's again nice video men 👀 👃 👄nice job bro
Glad you liked it! yes I need to point that disconnection of the battery MORE often. Its crazy how much I take that step for granted b/c I work on cars so much and have the experience to know what I can and cannot do with certain steps and sometimes I forget to mention them. I will try better to point that out next time.
@@piercedasian lol crazy haw that happens sometimes,being too good at something sometimes mk's one forget some steps,it has happened to me too,so., I Guess if there was no mist*Kes there won't have being a need for improvement it's common. Thanks for your replying man, it means allot to me 💚,and it shows you care about your views,
yep good advice for those that aren't sure. Fortunately in Toyota's case I have found that the metal intake manifold gasket is VERY reusable (even the shops that work on Toyota's don't always replace them). That being said, that isn't to say that proactively replacing the gasket is a bad thing. It is a lifesaver to do a job once and not have to tear it apart a 2nd time IF the old gasket started to leak.
Great video and love the detailed steps + explanations. Turned out to be more of a 3-hour scavenger hunt for some bolts and tools that fell into the engine bay, but nonetheless thank you.
Have a feeling ill be hunting bolts for hours too. I replaced the alternator and theres a hidden bolt that i dropped and haven't seen for over a year now
Did this on my IS 250 RWD, everything went smoothly.. Only thing that differed was the fuel line with the crush washers, the line did not exist in my car. Maybe it's something that only AWD has or it's different in EU models, either way great guide. I did buy the washers, the dude at Lexus found it when we checked the part list for my engine but there's no fuel line to the manifold in my car. The bolt behind the manifold was a bitch... Probably took me 25 minutes to get it off at it was super tight until the very last thread and there's no room to turn the bolt. I would also recommend having a spare spark plug seal or two, dropped one into the engine room and it seems there's some black hole that swallowed it...
lol a black hole? I know that feeling. Drives me crazy when I drop something into an engine bay and can't find it. Interesting that you don't have a fuel line on the manifold. Must be some subtle differences between AWD or european versions. Either way you got your car all fixed up and that's great!
Great video and I'm planning on replacing the plugs next week. Purchased the NGK's for $80 but and the wife call dealer to get a cost for replacing plugs just for s***s and giggles, $529! Of course I'm saying that now until I put everything back together and have either a thrown code or bad idle...
The beat video I have seen and well explained. Thank you for sharing. With that been said, I completed my spark plug install and when I went to start the car, the engine light was on along with the check VSC traction light on. Could this be because I did not remove the batter terminal? The car idles great and all the plugs have been replugged back and all bolts tightened. I’m going to buy a diagnostic tool to identify the codes and clear it, but was curious to know what caused it. Any feed back is appreciated. Thank you and keep up the good work.
piercedasian hey, ty for the follow up. I appreciate it, actually I did pulled up the code and it had to do with the throttle body connector, I missed it when I was putting everything back. It was located by the firewall. Had to take manifold back out. Then CEL went away. Ty, Ty again. Hope this info helps others.
Great video!! i am going to replace mine soon, may i know what exact tools you need for the whole process? Need some special tools for the 12mm bolt behind the intake manifold under the fuel line bolt?
Sorry I don't have a comprehensive tool list used in this video but they're all standard tools that can be purchase from pretty much any store that sells tools. Basic metric wrenches and sockets and Allen key sockets and that's about it.
Thanks for another thorough video with great service tips. I hope you are able to find some spare time this summer for more videos. Do you still plan on doing a video for 7th gen Honda head gasket replacement?
Glad you liked my vid. I try very hard to get content created but with life and two little kids and a home to look after I am finding that it's getting excruciatingly hard to publish new content. The 7th gen head gasket vid never did manifest itself b/c I sold my car before I could get to the gasket. So unless my other civic's head gasket blows up (let's hope not) that I likely won't be doing a head gasket vid on it. Sorry to disappoint.
Best DYI video by far! For those who are not knowledgeable about parts, can you share the OEM part numbers for the fuel line crush washers? I can't find the diagram anywhere on the net. Thanks in advance!!
Glad you liked the video. Unfortunately it's been so long since I did this video that I don't remember what the part #'s are. You can get them if you call your local dealership b/c that is where I got all the parts from.
Glad you liked my video. Knock sensor location? I can't say that I know where it is BUT if you call the local Toyota dealership they could easily tell you the location of it based on the parts diagram. I suspect it is somewhere along the side of the block buried deep in the engine bay (as all knock sensors seem to be).
Here's an advice guys. Use long allen sockets when taking out the allen bolts that hold down the intake manifold. Save yourself a headache from a stripped allen bolt. Everything else he was spot on but having long allen socket will prevent you from stripping the allen bolts. CANT STRESS THAT ENOUGH
All done but now i have a traction control light on and the check engine light on. When i first started it, it ran rough. Scared the hell out of me. After checking everything again, everything was correct. Started it again and it runs smooth now. I hope the check engine light and traction control light will turn off on its own later. Maybe caused by relieving pressure in the fuel system when i disconnected the line?
PG I'm suspecting that your hypothesis of draining the fuel line and it running rough is likely triggering the traction control light and check engine light. Those lights often come on when there is a severe misfire but if you're saying the van is running smooth now that once you've reset everything that chances are your van will be a-ok. Fingers crossed.
@@piercedasian thanks yea sounds about right. Drove it around, felt more hp so super excited about that. Old plugs were bad. Stupid acura dealer was like "needs nothing all maintenance is up to date" but these were clearly not done according to maintenance
If memory serves me correctly that all I did was bolt everything back together, engage the parking brake, turned of ALL electrical loads and just started up the engine and let it run for 20-30 minutes without interrupting the idle on it. Car's been driving find since.
hey Omar here again. PA, great video. Your clarity, detailed& careful doing all your work. Your explanations are professional & articulate. i enjoyed this video w/ my nieces. Any update on that CR-V timing belt job? Otherwise, excellent once again. Where are you located ? Ontario?
Hey Omar, wow, the CR-V timing belt job? Yes I still have it but I've been so insanely busy that admitted my UA-cam channel has been neglected. I'm finally after 1.5 months am responding to all my fans. That CR-V vid WILL get posted and as my kids return to school I should have more time to finish publishing about 6 months worth of car work... Glad you liked the vid. I'll try to prioritize that CR-V vid so that it gets posted. I'm so close to finishing it that honestly, I should be ashamed of myself for taking so long to publish it. My sincerest apologies for taking so long.
I appreciate your response and please do not worry. I know that you are busy fixing cars and enjoying the summer. Once things are under control I will anticipate that job. I would like to change that belt before the cold winter starts. Otherwise , you are thorough and precise technician..the same principles I apply on my own car OR a car I'm working on.
Oh I forgot to add. how do you feel about keyless ignition? I prefer the key to be honest. It makes you feel you are connected with that turn of the ignition & the replacement key would be a lot less than fixing that push start nonsense car manufactures are starting with. But great car one of my goals if I can get one.
I don't mind keyless ignition because it's slick looking BUT I still feel a bit weirded out that I don't have to insert a key into an ignition lock cylinder. All the cars I own still use the good ol' fashioned key but I can guarantee you that all cars will eventually become keyless.
Fantastic tutorial. What do you think of some die electric grease on coil plugs? Are you sure antisieze is a good idea on plugs? I have a 2016 lexus is 300. Much appreciated video
Yes using antiseize is a good thing on plugs permitted you do not over torque the plugs. I've had a few instances where a owner never bothered with anti seize and had the plugs in their engine for a REALLY long time (as most new cars do due to the super long life of plugs) and it seized in the head. Only use NICKEL based antiseize and never copper based as you don't want a slow but damaging galvanic reaction to start in the cylinder head. Dielectric grease isn't a bad thing if it is a tiny dab of it but since coil packs are quite well sealed and sit directly over the plug and underneath an engine cover that the changes of dirt and water getting into the coil boot is quite slim. I sometimes apply a tiny bit of dielectric grease onto the boot when I feel it "sticking" during removal.
Very detailed video man! I appreciate you taking the time to make this. Question, I just bought my IS250 with 220,000 miles. It has had excellent servicing but just to be safe, I want to swap spark plugs and clean the throttle body. (The car occasionally will have a rough idle). I’ve seen other videos of people removing the entire throttle body to give it a thorough cleaning. Do I run the risk of messing up calibration of the throttle body if I remove it entirely to clean behind the plate? Thanks in advance!
Glad you liked the vid. Yes you can absolutely mess up the throttle position sensing but there is a way to clean things up without doing too much damage. If you undo the throttle body on the car you CAN give the plate and passages a good spraying with throttle cleaner. Just set the plate enough to soften the gunk and then give it a few minutes to work and then follow up with a good blasting to rinse off all the crap. Whatever you do, do NOT open the plate by hand b/c I have found that when people do that, that it messes things up badly. Re-install new gaskets and then before starting up the car make sure everything that requires power is turned off (no a/c, no fan, no radio, nothing...) and then start the car up and let it idle for 20 minutes to auto relearn its idle. Once that is done then you should be good. I will caution you however, that your issues with a rough idle/stumble is the intake is likely gunked up with carbon. Since these motors are direct injection that carbon tends to accumulate in the intake passages and that is actually is what causes this particular engine to act up. The lexus you saw in my video actually had the exact issue you described and it was fixed under warranty by lexus . They basically cleaned up the intake using crushed walnut shells to "blast" the carbon out. They basically had to undo the entire intake plenum from the car to clean that crap out of the head. You may consider getting that job done at Lexus as a good cleaning will make a HUGE difference in performance and drivability of the car. Good luck and treat that throttle body with the highest degree of respect.
Great video! I followed your instructions step by step on my 2014 IS250 F Sport and got it done in under 2 hours. Everything went smooth thanks to your video. I really appreciate it! When I got done and started the car the check engine light was on as well as the Traction off sign. I drive it down the road to get the code read at an auto parts store and it came up as P2017- “engine intake manifold runner position sensor or switch circuit high bank 1”. After I turned it off and went back in the store and returned the reader I cam out and started the car again and the engine light was off as well as the Trac off... the car drove and idled smoothly after the spark plug change and the light hasn’t come back on all day after that initial experience... did that ever happen with you?
Glad you found my video useful! When I did the plug change I did not experience the check engine light issue on the car. I've heard some folks having that issue as well but I was lucky in that all the IS x50's I've ever worked on never had issues after I finished the job(s).
All that work you're doing and putting anti seize on which you just need to do a drop at the very start of the threads but you really should have had them put Dielectric grease a dab where the spark plug goes even on the connection to the coil that is especially good to do in the northern states where you get a lot of crappy weather and can get that under the hood other than that great video I would have just mention the Dielectric Grease also
hmm valid point. I can't say that I've struggled too much with stuck plug boots but I completely get where you're coming from. I will consider that in my next tune up video. Thanks for watching!
Me and most folks develop a feel for how tight things should be. Its quite obvious when you start tightening things down that things start to snug up. Once that happens, stop. There is no need for any fastener to be cranked down with a ton of force.
Yeah, I ordered a refurbished one on Rockauto and replaced it. I clear the most carbon deposits in those 12 “holes” . Now the engine runs as new, the fuel consumption is 30 MPG city. Thank you for your video.
It is very strange in the IS250 that you had to take the intake manifold (or intake air surge tank as manuals call it) in order to change the spark plugs. I am driving a 2007 IS300 (3GR-FE engine). You can change spark plugs without removing the intake manifold, which has a different base shape the gasket is kind of less wide and comes as one piece! Thought to share some literature about the IS creatures.
lol, you're way off (or possibly not). I'm Canadian in Alberta so the closest accent you'd likely match me up with in the US is probably Montana. That's a first for me... Wisconsin - I should visit the cheese state one day!
Glad you liked the vid. I can't remember all the socket sizes used now but since this is a Japanese car that the socket sizes are often 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets and hex drivers are often 5, 5,5 and 6 mm. Hope that sort of helps.
You're very well versed in this. Knowing the exact names for everything. You ever thought about becoming a master mechanic? Or are you already one? Lol
Glad you liked the video. I really wanted to become a master mechanic but quitting my day job isn't so easy since I'm in an established career and going into this field so late in the game makes me an "old timer" relative to the young guns starting out of high school. I decided to stay as a freelance/shade tree mechanic that does work on my terms. Quality over quantity.
Generally speaking most modern cars can easily run 100, 000 miles or 160, 000 kms but I recommend you follow the manufacturer's recommended replacement interval.
The bolt behind the manifold by the fuel line was the hardest! But I got it. Thank you for your tutorial, saved me a lot of money.
Dude, your channel will do GREAT, because you are one of the rare people that shows details in your repairs, GREAT JOB, and keep up the work!!
glad you liked my video! I try my best to capture detail but it is HARD to do as I am a one person crew that does the recording, editing and fixing.
Loved the video but you left one major part out.Doing this can throw of the idle control when turning back on. Drive for about 10 miles to bring back ti normal.
Agreed
Those little details you give like not moving the throttle body metal plate, the necessary torque to tighten bolts… after looking at so many videos to replace the spark plugs on my IS….this is the one I needed! Thank you, not only for the instructions and demonstration but also the very educated and detailed insight!
I wanted to follow up by letting you know that I successfully completed my spark plug replacement in my IS. I recovered 30% fuel efficiency and probably similar HP/Torque recovery. That I you for giving me the confidence to get this done by myself!!
I'm glad you found my video useful. I get complaints all the time that my videos are too detailed but the way I look at things is that the devil IS in the details and omissions of critical information can be disastrous to those that don't know much about fixing cars. Glad it all worked out for you!
Thank you for your quality videos! I recently bought an '08 IS250 Base A/T for my wife. I did not realize it at the time of purchase that the car we had bought had staggered rims. I am a novice home mechanic, at best. Upon further research, I came to the conclusion that unless one were to make a tire changing station at home, only a tech would install staggered rims on a vehicle. As it turned out, the owner's husband was previously a Lexus tech, now wkg for BMW.
I have had my share of disappointments with at least 30 technicians, the majority of them unwilling to do what it takes to get the job done right the first time. Thanks to people like you, who care enough to share your skills & knowledge on YT, I can pursue my own repairs with a certain amount of confidence. The car's obd2 has recently thrown up some cylinder misfire warnings to tell me it's time to replace the spark plugs (and likely the coils while I'm at it). I will replay your video another 5x before I attempt the teardown in order to get to the spark plugs.
In the video, you showed the NGK plugs, and your link points to Denso 4705 plugs. The link from my local Lexus dealership identified Denso FK20HBR11 as the plugs for my wife's car, although Amazon's fitment algorithm indicates that the 4705 plugs will fit. Considering that the car is now over 14 yrs old, I would prefer to spend my money on what gives me the best durability. Do you have a preference? If YT allow, I will include the link to the dealership page:
parts.lexusofconcord.com/p/Lexus_2008_IS-250-AT/Spark-Plug/62975795/9091901249.html
Hey Neil, sorry for taking forever to reply. Yes you're correct in the listings vary for the plugs and for absolutely certainty for fitment you can get them from the local Lexus dealership. Ultimately if you go with the 4705 plugs you should be fine as I vaguely remember that was what I used. Personally I'm a NGK plug person but sometimes affiliate links from Amazon doesn't always have the plugs available to link in my videos. Having said, that my preference of plugs? Denso supplies Toyota with sparks plus and NGK supplies Honda with their plugs. Naturally, I use both and like both equally as much. Hope that helps.
Thank you for the detailed instructions.
Thank you for the clarity and lack of waffle.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to make and post this video.
The best IS250 spark plug-change tutorial to date, by far.
Thank you for being so kind and I'm super happy that you like my video. Not all my videos flow this smoothly - its an evolution of my presentation skills and I'm glad you came across one of my better ones :)
Changed spark plugs today, look at your tutorial 4 times, changed everything in 2 hours instead of pay $350 to mechanic, thank you very much, very helpful video.
that is awesome news! Glad it went without a hitch for you!
Best video I watched that actually describes everything that’s needs to be known
This is a very well demonstrated DIY....I will be using it to replace my spark plugs soon. Thank you!
glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
I used this excellent tutorial video for the second time today when replacing my plugs on my 2014 IS250! Thank you so much for making such a detailed amazing video!! 🙌🏼
Glad it helped
Excellent tutorial! I’ll be replacing plugs and coils on my daughter’s 2008 IS250 this weekend and this was very helpful. Subscribed so I can get help on other maintenance. I’m a confident mechanic, but now I see why the shop charges more - although doing it myself I can change the plugs and all coils for less than they’d do just the plugs.
Glad you liked the tutorial! I used to work at a shop doing this type of work all day long and it isn't so much just the labor costs but the overhead it costs to run a shop. Shops can be so so wasteful for things like rags, cleaners and just general laziness of techs which drives up operational costs for the dealership. In the end, I left the dealership and went off on my own and even though some of my cars have warranty on them that I forgo warranty b/c I have major trust issues with the dealer/shops messing with my cars. I don't think I've ever gone to one that hasn't screwed up something. I have very good memory of where things belong and what fasteners look like. The moment I raise my car up on my own hoist to see what was done I immediately knew they substituted screws out b/c they dropped mine into the drainage pit and didn't bother going to the parts department to get the matching screw to put in its place.... stuff like that drives me BAT SHIT CRAZY and I'm leaving the dealership pissed off. No thanks... nobody can do work better than myself for MY cars because I actually care about what I do. Good job on you for taking on this task!
You are very good mechanic, working very carefully, explained very clearly. Good luck.
Thank you!
Inspired! I like when you giving out details over the nooks and crannies of removing the intake manifold, it’s a bit of work just to replace 3 spark plugs on the other side but it is what it is and I learn a lot from here. I just bought a 2007 IS300 yesterday and it’s around 198000KM mileage. I will get my hands dirty on those plugs today. You deserve my sub and like. 👍🏻
One of the absolute beet automotive DIY videos I have seen in a long time...Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Rate 10/10 you explain things so easily you don't really miss anything. Thank you so much for everything you do!
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.
At first when I looked in my motor I was like damn it’s gonna be a pain. But watching your video in great detail gave me the confidence that I can replace the plugs. Awesome video
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.
Changed my plugs last weekend and this video helped out tremendously. I can’t thank you enough!
Glad you found the video useful! Thanks for watching!
Super clear and detailed. Just followed your steps and changed my is250's spark plugs last weekend.
Glad the video worked out for you.
i m about 144k on my original plugs,...i think its time to replace, the car has being running great, i have being procrastinating. Thank you for the video tutorial, im addressing this service by the end of the week.
Sounds great! You can do it!
Excellent explanation. Very professional , and clearly spoken English, many thanks.
Glad you liked the video.
A good 'Rule of Thumb' is 'Would l let this guy work on my Car ?' Well this guy would be very welcome to work on MY car - and that is a big compliment - l'm avery 'picky' individual !!!
Bravo Pierce, for an excellent, detailed Video !!!
But please clean all the engine components before you close everything up, as l posted in my earlier Comment/s.
Glad you liked the video. I replied to your other comment and DO appreciate the feedback and completely agree that anything that is being worked on should be 100% clean.
Wato here from australia. Just replaced my plugs with this tutorials help it was excellent. Just a few differences with a right hand drive model. We don't have the fuel connection into the manifold which is one less step, but make up for it by having an electrical connector at the back of the manifold, virtually impossible to get to to disconnect and you cant remove the manifold without disconnecting it so i just cut the holder, won't effect anything. Other difficult bolt was the one holding the manifold to the throttle body, fairly easy to get off but a pain to replace, i dropped mine and it disappeared lol so shove plenty of rags under the throttle body to catch it, a magnetic screwdriver is handy as well to retrieve it. I replaced the gaskets but the old ones looked ok, also replaced the throttle body gasket while the manifold was off, doubt ill be doing it again thank goodness. Added bonus the car started and runs like a champ!
thanks for sharing tips on the Australian market version! Good tips for our viewers and glad you were able to get it all up and running again.
Enormous thanks for these excellent maintenance clips
ive just bought a IS with 179kms & now i will be doing the plugs with youre help
many thanks
Glad you liked my video. Hopefully your plug replacement will go without a hitch. Here's a tip - make sure you order the fuel line gasket that bolts onto the intake manifold. I've had quite a few comments on where to get the gaskets and my answer is always Toyota/Lexus. Give them your VIN and they will be able to pull up the specific parts diagram that will show the part #. SUPER important since you're dealing with fuel (despite barely having any fuel in that line you have to remove).
Hi Pierce are they the two AL washers on the banjo bolt? Also im looking for a clip to remove the radiator.-im replacing water pump, thermostat, radiator, rad hoses & serpentine belt- do you still have your IS?@@piercedasian
yes those are the washes I am referring to. I no longer have the IS. Sold it in favour of a 10th gen civic instead.
@@piercedasian Thanks for that have you ever removed the radiator on an IS ?
I can't say that I have.
If this is how all mechanics care of every car they work on then I would feel very confident to have my car worked on by them which I know it's unlikely. I want my car worked on by this guy!
I watched this video to change the spark plugs in my daughters car but after watching how much you have to remove then more than likely I'll be having several left over screws😅
aww thanks! I get that comment a lot from my clients which is why I guess I keep fixing cars the way I do. I actually care about what I do and am not paid by the hour to complete the job. I'd rather take my time doing it right than hacking it b/c I'm trying to "beat the clock". Yes there is quite a bit to remove just take your time, take pictures if you must and place the bolts on a table that has the same "positioning" as they would on your engine. ie bolts from the back driver's side would sit on the top right corner of a table. This ways you have a general sense of where things got removed from and where they need to go back.
Great video, thank you! Saved me time watching this first
Glad it helped!
Thanks for very good video,good job you worked very cleanly and patiently,please show more video about Lexus IS 250 2009 because I have a Lexus,thank you so much 🙏👏👏
I would love to show more about this car but they're so darned reliable that there isn't much to break down on these cars!
Great video! Now make a video about the tire pressure light that you have because I just had it pop up this week and I wanna know how to fix that problem too.
Good vid I like how you work. I’d say the only thing is don’t worry about fuel spraying from that line it’s simply for cold start it’s not under constant pressure like the main fuel rail. I’d also recommend blowing debris off the engine before removing the manifold if you have compressed air.
Thanks for the tips!
Engine cleaner spray will help a lot :) on removing connectors. Fantastic Job man.. I love It. Thnx
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for taking the time making these videos, really helps save alot of money.
you're most welcome. Thank YOU for watching my vids.
Thank you. Step by step guidance. Much appreciated.
You're welcome! Thanks for stopping by.
Nicely done. I love your thorough walk through. (Your creative use of hand tools is also a hoot!)
Glad you liked the video. Creative use of hand tools? Just using them to get the job done in whatever "safe" means necessary :)
So detailed and to the point! Excellent Video
Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Wow! Amazing video brother! One of the best made DIY I've ever watched. Very informative and clear steps! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
clear to the point, covers safety concerns, tone of voice - one of the best series for these repairs on the is250. Thank you very much. How about rear shock assembly replacements? :O)
Very well demonstration of how to replace spark plugs. I have a 2007 Lexus E S 350...I think basically it should be the same way,if not can you please advise me. I bought it about just over a year ago with about 320,000 kilometers on it. It is a very beautiful vehicle. Basically all what i did on it service the brakes and installed a set of new tires on it.
sweet!
Thanks bro , a friend helped me to replace spark plugs and we use your video as a guide , it was amazingly helpful!
Glad it helped
Good tutorial, appreciate you going step by step! It helped me out a ton!
Thank you taking the time to make a video for this process!
you're most welcome. Thanks for watching!
Hey that was a great job. You were very thorough. I need to replace my spark plugs and I am going to watch this video again when I do. But I also want to replace my O2 sensor I hope that you have a video on that as well.
Glad you liked the video. I don't have a video on the o2 sensor replacement since the car in this video has a perfectly working o2 sensor still. One day when it does need replacing I will do a video.
@@piercedasian ok. I found out how to replace one it is under the battery. I was told by mechanics that usually work on older cars that the O2 sensor was with the spark plugs. And I saw in this video that this wasn't the case.
Wow great video good angels vary easy to follow and I love how you not only tell what tool to use but even parts 10/10 keep it up
Glad you liked it!
Great step-by-step instructions. I like your advice to stuff clean rags or paper towel into the intake ports, but my OCD will compell me to wipe everything down before the intake manifold comes off, and to use a shop vac to suck up debris around the spark plug openings to ensure nothing gets in those openings.
Wondering if its a good idea to put a dab of dielectric grease onto the electrical connectors (and their gaskets), as well as the spark plug boots when reassembling?
yep for sure. On some cars that are really dirty and gritty I will actually take the engine to wash it down at a high pressure wash bay. In this car's case it wasn't too bad at all so I didn't bother. As for the dielectric grease, I would suggest against doing that as the seals in the japanese cars in particular are very good quality and the last thing you want is dirt sticking to the grease and then lingering on the connector such that the next time you plug in the connector that you're now jamming a connected covered in dirty grease back on and thus potentially compromising the seal.
@@piercedasian Did the plug change yesterday on my 2011 IS250 at 133,000 km. The connectors on the plug coils are fragile, and one of the tabs broke off. I had to secure the connection with a zip tie upon re-assembly.
Apparently, this is an issue with many Toyota/Lexus wiring harnesses. It looks like the 4 pin plug can be disassembled so that the "shell" can be replaced. That said, the one that broke on my car was on the driver's side, buried under the intake plenum, so I think that I will leave it as is.
Otherwise, your video was very informative. Cheers!
This is an awesome video! Looking forward to more Lexus is250 videos! Thanks for taking the time man!
I will likely be doing a suspension swap video this upcoming summer so consider subscribing to my channel to get the latest in my how-to videos!
Already done my man
Hey so I just did my spark plugs and the check vsc light came on saying the code is "p2017" "Intake manifold Runner position sensor/switch Circuit high bank 1a"
Any insight on what could cause it? I changed the intake plenum gaskets, all three of them and the throttle body gasket as well.
hmm, did you connect up all your wiring harnesses properly and did they fully seat and "lock"? Intake runner sensor is one of the sensors that you'd need to unplug to remove the intake manifold from the motor. Sorry it took me forever to reply. Been insanely busy with kids and "life".
For the back bolt remove the injector from the 2 10mm bolts on the injector attaching it to the intake. Watch out for that o-ring. This will free up much needed space for working and actually seeing the bolt for removal.
The best tool is a break-neck socket with a 12mm socket. Get a cheap one at harbor freight or where ever.
Also, after seating the intake for re-install do not tighten bolts yet, because a little bit of "wiggling" will be needed to reinstall the infamous back-bolt and the other one holding the intake near the throttle body.
Amazing diy video on this. Need to get this done on my wife's 2011 is250. I visited your channel and your avatar pic is a prelude. Niiceee! I have an electron blue pearl 2001 manual. Its my baby =]
Glad you liked my video. A 2001 electron blue pearl lude'. Nice. I loved the Prelude and shame on Honda for discontinuing it along with so many of their awesome sport cars. I hope they really get back into the game of making more sports oriented cards like the Prelude and S2k.
Very Good tutorial video. Good narrator and good video high definition quality. Thanks for the video.
you're most welcome. Thanks for watching!
thanks for this, just finished my first DIY spark plug replacement and everything looks good thanks to you 🙏🙏
Great to hear!
I love the IS generations except the last one, that front grill is such a bummer. I replaced the 4 spark plugs on my 1995 Honda Accord EX and man it is so much easier than the 6 cyl cars. I love the newest Honda Accord V6 coupes, don't you? I wonder how easy they are to do the standard maintenance on like fluid changes and spark plugs? Thanks for the detailed vids. Not everyone on YT has the patience to include every single precaution like you that is so important for a beginning wrencher.
As you tell from my channel I am very much a Honda guy. My Toyota truck is my 1st toyota that I purchased but I still wish it were a honda. So much easier to service their cars especially their V6 engines compared to Toyotas. Doesn't mean I don't like Toyota though... I love my Tundra and loved the Camry my father used to loan me to drive.
The latest accord V6 coupe is a slick looking car. Fully agree with you that it's purdy...
Yes this gen of IS was nice looking. The new ones really botched the front grill.... I don't like them at all.
Fluids and such are relatively easy. Brake fluid flushing is done exactly the same way as I show in my Honda brake fluid flush video. Tranny fluid is easy to do as well but my understanding is some toyotas don't have user serviceable trannys anymore. On this gen of IS I believe it can be done easily using the Toyota WS fluid. I haven't done the tranny on this one but I think it is the same as previous toyotas.
Yes devils are in the details. May YT assume people know what they're doing. I treat everyone like they're new to the wrenching game so you can't possibly screw up with my vids. Knowledge is power right?
Thanks for creating this..........it was extremely helpful when I did it on my 2011
glad you like the vid!
good job 👍I enjoyed the video I think it help't me allot, basically because every thing was clearly shown step step, and carefully serviced nice job man
And quickly next time don't forget to disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid risking an electrical error,or oes sensor failure one's again nice video men
👀
👃
👄nice job bro
Glad you liked it! yes I need to point that disconnection of the battery MORE often. Its crazy how much I take that step for granted b/c I work on cars so much and have the experience to know what I can and cannot do with certain steps and sometimes I forget to mention them. I will try better to point that out next time.
@@piercedasian lol crazy haw that happens sometimes,being too good at something sometimes mk's one forget some steps,it has happened to me too,so.,
I Guess if there was no mist*Kes there won't have being a need for improvement it's common.
Thanks for your replying man, it means allot to me 💚,and it shows you care about your views,
I needed this video.thank you
you're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Man you make it look so easy.
But it is easy! Just take your time, have the right tools and a 6 pack of beer and you're set!
great video I only suggest changing the uper intake gasket while its off
yep good advice for those that aren't sure. Fortunately in Toyota's case I have found that the metal intake manifold gasket is VERY reusable (even the shops that work on Toyota's don't always replace them). That being said, that isn't to say that proactively replacing the gasket is a bad thing. It is a lifesaver to do a job once and not have to tear it apart a 2nd time IF the old gasket started to leak.
Great job! Can you also show how to replace the knock sensors, or show where they are located.
Sadly I no longer have access to this car as it was sold. If I do come across another Lexus that needs a knock sensor I will be sure to document it.
Great video and love the detailed steps + explanations. Turned out to be more of a 3-hour scavenger hunt for some bolts and tools that fell into the engine bay, but nonetheless thank you.
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Have a feeling ill be hunting bolts for hours too. I replaced the alternator and theres a hidden bolt that i dropped and haven't seen for over a year now
Did this on my IS 250 RWD, everything went smoothly..
Only thing that differed was the fuel line with the crush washers, the line did not exist in my car.
Maybe it's something that only AWD has or it's different in EU models, either way great guide.
I did buy the washers, the dude at Lexus found it when we checked the part list for my engine but there's no fuel line to the manifold in my car.
The bolt behind the manifold was a bitch... Probably took me 25 minutes to get it off at it was super tight until the very last thread and there's no room to turn the bolt.
I would also recommend having a spare spark plug seal or two, dropped one into the engine room and it seems there's some black hole that swallowed it...
lol a black hole? I know that feeling. Drives me crazy when I drop something into an engine bay and can't find it. Interesting that you don't have a fuel line on the manifold. Must be some subtle differences between AWD or european versions. Either way you got your car all fixed up and that's great!
Do you remember the part# for those washers. The dealers here don't seem to find it.
@@crackerjack0413 Hi, were you able to find washers/ part number for them? I called 2 Lexus stores and no luck...
Very comprehensive video. Thanks
you're welcome!
Fantastic video. Will use this when time to replace plugs, previous owner had done them not long ago.
yeah it seems daunting at first but it really isn't that bad.
Excellent video thank you for sharing
Great video and I'm planning on replacing the plugs next week. Purchased the NGK's for $80 but and the wife call dealer to get a cost for replacing plugs just for s***s and giggles, $529! Of course I'm saying that now until I put everything back together and have either a thrown code or bad idle...
yeah the dealership is mind blowing what they charge. At least you have all the info you need to do it on the cheap :)
Dealer is ridiculously expensive
Excellent explanation. Very professional - Thanks for your effort. Likes to hear more. dave
glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
The beat video I have seen and well explained. Thank you for sharing. With that been said, I completed my spark plug install and when I went to start the car, the engine light was on along with the check VSC traction light on. Could this be because I did not remove the batter terminal? The car idles great and all the plugs have been replugged back and all bolts tightened. I’m going to buy a diagnostic tool to identify the codes and clear it, but was curious to know what caused it. Any feed back is appreciated. Thank you and keep up the good work.
Glad you liked the vid. Did you end up getting a scan tool and finding out what was wrong? Are you getting any misfires?
piercedasian hey, ty for the follow up. I appreciate it, actually I did pulled up the code and it had to do with the throttle body connector, I missed it when I was putting everything back. It was located by the firewall. Had to take manifold back out. Then CEL went away. Ty, Ty again. Hope this info helps others.
@@r.a.s.motorsports7860 Would you happen to know what code(s) you are getting?
Great video!! i am going to replace mine soon, may i know what exact tools you need for the whole process? Need some special tools for the 12mm bolt behind the intake manifold under the fuel line bolt?
Sorry I don't have a comprehensive tool list used in this video but they're all standard tools that can be purchase from pretty much any store that sells tools. Basic metric wrenches and sockets and Allen key sockets and that's about it.
The more I watch, the more I want a shop do it for me lol
It really isn't that bad. Just the right tools and patience and common sense goes a long way to ensuring a successful fix.
@@piercedasian Got it. I'm replacing the PCV valve as well. Do you need the to let the car overnight before tackling the plugs?
@@piercedasian So I ended up taking it to a shop lol thx tho!
awesome video and easy guideline to follow.
thanks for uploading helpful video!.
you're most welcome. Thank you for watching!
Nice work! Do you have a tutorial for replacing the fuel injectors for this engine?
sorry no need to replace any injectors yet..
Thanks for another thorough video with great service tips. I hope you are able to find some spare time this summer for more videos. Do you still plan on doing a video for 7th gen Honda head gasket replacement?
Glad you liked my vid. I try very hard to get content created but with life and two little kids and a home to look after I am finding that it's getting excruciatingly hard to publish new content. The 7th gen head gasket vid never did manifest itself b/c I sold my car before I could get to the gasket. So unless my other civic's head gasket blows up (let's hope not) that I likely won't be doing a head gasket vid on it. Sorry to disappoint.
Fantastic video sir.Thanks for posting.
My pleasure
Best DYI video by far!
For those who are not knowledgeable about parts, can you share the OEM part numbers for the fuel line crush washers?
I can't find the diagram anywhere on the net. Thanks in advance!!
Glad you liked the video. Unfortunately it's been so long since I did this video that I don't remember what the part #'s are. You can get them if you call your local dealership b/c that is where I got all the parts from.
Hi, were you able to find washers?
That’s an amazing instructional video 👍 have you replaced transmission and diff oil yet ..... transmission is sealed no dipstick
Not yet but I know how to. Just no chance to do it before I got rid of the car :(
Excelent tutorial. Now how about the starter replacement on this vehicle. Any help is welcome
I haven't had to do a starter replacement on this motor yet but if I do I will certainly be doing a vid!
Great video and details. Nice job! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Great video bud. Im a new Subscriber now. thank you for this video. Hey by any chance do you know where the knock sensors are located?
Glad you liked my video. Knock sensor location? I can't say that I know where it is BUT if you call the local Toyota dealership they could easily tell you the location of it based on the parts diagram. I suspect it is somewhere along the side of the block buried deep in the engine bay (as all knock sensors seem to be).
I broke the Bolt head on cylinder 5 so i just change 1 through 4. I used the tapper but not experience enough to get it out without damaging it
Here's an advice guys. Use long allen sockets when taking out the allen bolts that hold down the intake manifold. Save yourself a headache from a stripped allen bolt. Everything else he was spot on but having long allen socket will prevent you from stripping the allen bolts. CANT STRESS THAT ENOUGH
very good point! I actually really should invest in a set of long allen sockets. I only have short ones.
@@piercedasian SAME!!!!! I borrowed one but now I want my own set.
All done but now i have a traction control light on and the check engine light on. When i first started it, it ran rough. Scared the hell out of me. After checking everything again, everything was correct. Started it again and it runs smooth now. I hope the check engine light and traction control light will turn off on its own later. Maybe caused by relieving pressure in the fuel system when i disconnected the line?
PG I'm suspecting that your hypothesis of draining the fuel line and it running rough is likely triggering the traction control light and check engine light. Those lights often come on when there is a severe misfire but if you're saying the van is running smooth now that once you've reset everything that chances are your van will be a-ok. Fingers crossed.
@@piercedasian thanks yea sounds about right. Drove it around, felt more hp so super excited about that. Old plugs were bad. Stupid acura dealer was like "needs nothing all maintenance is up to date" but these were clearly not done according to maintenance
piercedasian update it’s been a month now, still on. So I’m going to disconnect the battery now and see if that erases the lights
What a knowledgeable guy! Thank you for sharing
you're most welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great vid w/ good tips! Since the throttle body was removed, does the idle needs to be relearned? If yes, can u show how w/o computer?
If memory serves me correctly that all I did was bolt everything back together, engage the parking brake, turned of ALL electrical loads and just started up the engine and let it run for 20-30 minutes without interrupting the idle on it. Car's been driving find since.
The best tutorial dude .
Thanks!
hey Omar here again. PA, great video. Your clarity, detailed& careful doing all your work. Your explanations are professional & articulate. i enjoyed this video w/ my nieces. Any update on that CR-V timing belt job? Otherwise, excellent once again. Where are you located ? Ontario?
Hey Omar, wow, the CR-V timing belt job? Yes I still have it but I've been so insanely busy that admitted my UA-cam channel has been neglected. I'm finally after 1.5 months am responding to all my fans. That CR-V vid WILL get posted and as my kids return to school I should have more time to finish publishing about 6 months worth of car work...
Glad you liked the vid. I'll try to prioritize that CR-V vid so that it gets posted. I'm so close to finishing it that honestly, I should be ashamed of myself for taking so long to publish it. My sincerest apologies for taking so long.
I appreciate your response and please do not worry. I know that you are busy fixing cars and enjoying the summer. Once things are under control I will anticipate that job. I would like to change that belt before the cold winter starts. Otherwise , you are thorough and precise technician..the same principles I apply on my own car OR a car I'm working on.
Oh I forgot to add. how do you feel about keyless ignition? I prefer the key to be honest. It makes you feel you are connected with that turn of the ignition & the replacement key would be a lot less than fixing that push start nonsense car manufactures are starting with. But great car one of my goals if I can get one.
I don't mind keyless ignition because it's slick looking BUT I still feel a bit weirded out that I don't have to insert a key into an ignition lock cylinder. All the cars I own still use the good ol' fashioned key but I can guarantee you that all cars will eventually become keyless.
Fantastic tutorial. What do you think of some die electric grease on coil plugs? Are you sure antisieze is a good idea on plugs? I have a 2016 lexus is 300. Much appreciated video
Yes using antiseize is a good thing on plugs permitted you do not over torque the plugs. I've had a few instances where a owner never bothered with anti seize and had the plugs in their engine for a REALLY long time (as most new cars do due to the super long life of plugs) and it seized in the head. Only use NICKEL based antiseize and never copper based as you don't want a slow but damaging galvanic reaction to start in the cylinder head. Dielectric grease isn't a bad thing if it is a tiny dab of it but since coil packs are quite well sealed and sit directly over the plug and underneath an engine cover that the changes of dirt and water getting into the coil boot is quite slim. I sometimes apply a tiny bit of dielectric grease onto the boot when I feel it "sticking" during removal.
Very detailed video man! I appreciate you taking the time to make this.
Question, I just bought my IS250 with 220,000 miles. It has had excellent servicing but just to be safe, I want to swap spark plugs and clean the throttle body. (The car occasionally will have a rough idle). I’ve seen other videos of people removing the entire throttle body to give it a thorough cleaning. Do I run the risk of messing up calibration of the throttle body if I remove it entirely to clean behind the plate? Thanks in advance!
Glad you liked the vid. Yes you can absolutely mess up the throttle position sensing but there is a way to clean things up without doing too much damage. If you undo the throttle body on the car you CAN give the plate and passages a good spraying with throttle cleaner. Just set the plate enough to soften the gunk and then give it a few minutes to work and then follow up with a good blasting to rinse off all the crap. Whatever you do, do NOT open the plate by hand b/c I have found that when people do that, that it messes things up badly.
Re-install new gaskets and then before starting up the car make sure everything that requires power is turned off (no a/c, no fan, no radio, nothing...) and then start the car up and let it idle for 20 minutes to auto relearn its idle. Once that is done then you should be good.
I will caution you however, that your issues with a rough idle/stumble is the intake is likely gunked up with carbon. Since these motors are direct injection that carbon tends to accumulate in the intake passages and that is actually is what causes this particular engine to act up. The lexus you saw in my video actually had the exact issue you described and it was fixed under warranty by lexus . They basically cleaned up the intake using crushed walnut shells to "blast" the carbon out. They basically had to undo the entire intake plenum from the car to clean that crap out of the head. You may consider getting that job done at Lexus as a good cleaning will make a HUGE difference in performance and drivability of the car. Good luck and treat that throttle body with the highest degree of respect.
piercedasian thank you so much!
This was a great and detailed video. Awesome!! Thank you!!!!
You’re most welcome!
huge help it looks fairly easy
Great video! I followed your instructions step by step on my 2014 IS250 F Sport and got it done in under 2 hours. Everything went smooth thanks to your video. I really appreciate it! When I got done and started the car the check engine light was on as well as the Traction off sign. I drive it down the road to get the code read at an auto parts store and it came up as P2017- “engine intake manifold runner position sensor or switch circuit high bank 1”. After I turned it off and went back in the store and returned the reader I cam out and started the car again and the engine light was off as well as the Trac off... the car drove and idled smoothly after the spark plug change and the light hasn’t come back on all day after that initial experience... did that ever happen with you?
Glad you found my video useful! When I did the plug change I did not experience the check engine light issue on the car. I've heard some folks having that issue as well but I was lucky in that all the IS x50's I've ever worked on never had issues after I finished the job(s).
All that work you're doing and putting anti seize on which you just need to do a drop at the very start of the threads but you really should have had them put Dielectric grease a dab where the spark plug goes even on the connection to the coil that is especially good to do in the northern states where you get a lot of crappy weather and can get that under the hood other than that great video I would have just mention the Dielectric Grease also
hmm valid point. I can't say that I've struggled too much with stuck plug boots but I completely get where you're coming from. I will consider that in my next tune up video. Thanks for watching!
Hello , Excellent video , one question how to torq whit your hand using to the plug spark thanks
Me and most folks develop a feel for how tight things should be. Its quite obvious when you start tightening things down that things start to snug up. Once that happens, stop. There is no need for any fastener to be cranked down with a ton of force.
Excellent job! Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching!
can you do a video of the knock sensor replacement for 2005-2015 IS250?
Unfortunately I don't have access to this car anymore as the person that owned the car sold it.
@@piercedasian Thank you! I tried to replace the knock sensor, but very unfortunately I broke one fuel injector when pulling out the fuel rail
oh no, were you able to replace the broken injector?
Yeah, I ordered a refurbished one on Rockauto and replaced it. I clear the most carbon deposits in those 12 “holes” . Now the engine runs as new, the fuel consumption is 30 MPG city. Thank you for your video.
Thanks for sharing the great video. Very informative.
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
This video is phenomenal dude
Glad you liked it!
It is very strange in the IS250 that you had to take the intake manifold (or intake air surge tank as manuals call it) in order to change the spark plugs. I am driving a 2007 IS300 (3GR-FE engine). You can change spark plugs without removing the intake manifold, which has a different base shape the gasket is kind of less wide and comes as one piece!
Thought to share some literature about the IS creatures.
interesting info. I have never worked on a IS300 before but it certainly sounds much easier to work on. Thanks for sharing that information.
Nice video helps me out alot. One question I used to have a friend from Wisconsin is that the accent or how far am i off? Thanks
lol, you're way off (or possibly not). I'm Canadian in Alberta so the closest accent you'd likely match me up with in the US is probably Montana. That's a first for me... Wisconsin - I should visit the cheese state one day!
@@piercedasian they will think you're a local.
@@piercedasian If I had to make a guess, I would never thought you have a Canadian accent..lol
Thanks for sharing!
What size Allen bolt on the head gasket?
Fantastic job! Think im going to attempt it. Thank you !
glad you liked my vid. Good luck.
very nice vid, even after four years...... could use to know socket sizes specially that intake hex screws.
Glad you liked the vid. I can't remember all the socket sizes used now but since this is a Japanese car that the socket sizes are often 8, 10, 12, 14mm sockets and hex drivers are often 5, 5,5 and 6 mm. Hope that sort of helps.
Excellent video.. Do you remember how long this took to complete? Overall time needed?
In all honesty since I am an experienced mechanic that I managed to get it done in about 1 hour. Newbies taking their time can be double that.
You're very well versed in this. Knowing the exact names for everything. You ever thought about becoming a master mechanic? Or are you already one? Lol
Glad you liked the video. I really wanted to become a master mechanic but quitting my day job isn't so easy since I'm in an established career and going into this field so late in the game makes me an "old timer" relative to the young guns starting out of high school. I decided to stay as a freelance/shade tree mechanic that does work on my terms. Quality over quantity.
@@piercedasian sometimes that's the best way.
Great video how you explain each and everything I think I can change spark plugs myself 👍🏻👌🏻
glad you liked my vid. Thank you for watching!
Nicely done!
What intervals do u recommend changing spark plugs?
Lexus recommends every 60,000 miles
Generally speaking most modern cars can easily run 100, 000 miles or 160, 000 kms but I recommend you follow the manufacturer's recommended replacement interval.
Great job! You explained everything very well!
thanks!