Axle DESTROYED! “Can’t be done” they said! Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 4x4
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- Pt 1 Customer States: NO ONE CAN FIND IT! Sand in my Dodge Ram! Replace Whole Unit! 1500 4x4 5.7 hemi • Customer States: NO ON...
Super Secret Hidden Unlisted Video! Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 4x4 • Ram 1500 Stuck AXLES! ...
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Super Secret Hidden Unlisted Video! Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 4x4 ua-cam.com/video/pRlndO72558/v-deo.html
"Gottah lube the nuts to get the shaft to come out of the hole..." Now just imagine saying that in front of 2 dozen 16 year olds back in tech school! 🤣🤣🤣 God only knows how we managed to learn anything back then...
👎 no
I've been wrenching on vehicles since my first car in the '70's. I've done a lot of repairs on raised trucks and broken drive line parts and suspension parts. Making angles too sharp causes a lot of stress on parts.
@@michaelmartin2276 This is exactly why an old friend of mine replaced the U-joint drive line in his lifted '88 F-250 with a custom built shaft using CV-Joints welded into place. Worked great, but replacing the joints cost a fortune....
One should always avoid excessive play on their shaft. If one does experience excessive play I recommend a replacement sleeve immediately. 😅
I used to build off-road vehicles from mild to wild so here is a piece of advice, BE CAREFUL OF LIFT KITS!
Yes, they look cool.
Yes, you can put larger tires on BUT, in most cases lift kits bring nothing but trouble and empty your pockets.
Just sayin!!!
My jeep agrees with you and I only did a3 inch
I've been back and forth over the years wanting to lift my trucks but never did. Can't get over making my new trucks ride like shit and hard to park. Maybe if I lived in the country but no good for city life
The only thing is good is in the photo before destruction.
@@stevenakn1 Here is what happens when people lift their vehicles: 1. The ride becomes stiff and you can actually lose suspension travel. 2. Big tires change the gearing of the vehicle, confuse the computers, change your speedometer and reduce significantly your towing capacity. 4. The only fix is to change the gearing in the front and rear axles (MORE MONEY) 5. Your cool lift puts more STRESS on EVERYTHING especially the automatic transmission etc. So what do I do? First, I invest in good under body armor and rock sliders. Second, I understand the reasonable capabilities of my vehicle and my actual needs. Third, LEARN TO DRIVE off road, and Fourth, if I want to do serious off-roading I have built a vehicle specifically for that purpose (VERY EXPENSIVE).
@@stevenakn1 hell, even in country- lift kits are dumb. They make you too cocky driving- better to stay standard, keep the money from the insurance, and beef up the transmission and engine for going nuts. Or better yet- get a dirt bike/quad if you want to go through super nasty sand n mud.
Words to live by: "You can't finger all the nuts." Ray's wisdom never ceases.
As a frequent visitor to South Main Auto I was following up all the times Ray said that word with "deez nutz!" Eric O. for president ;)
I have never had a problem fingering all my nuts, I have kinda shied away from fingering others though!
Ray Ray shoulda simply just consulted my old lady she is an absolute authority on vibrators and vibrations in any single thing she makes it work 4 her...
Along with "Lube your nuts."😂
Wiggling his bolts and fingering his nuts.
That awkward moment when: You find yourself watching another mechanic work on your day off...
I had actually felt the sigh of relief when the axle finally came off; in my soul.
Lol
Bro he made it so much harder then it should of been he could have attached a slide hammer to it it would popped right out
Kinda what I thought too, you can power through those C clips with a few heavy blows from a large hammer, rotating the axle at the same time helps too in case the clip is being difficult. This guy was really leaning on his impact hammer. @@g3t0wNeD420
@@g3t0wNeD420 I agree, he made things so much harder for himself, using the wrong tools, loosing the advantage of the correct tool type. Reminds me of one of my apprentices, bull in a china shop!!!!
I am far from being a dodge tech, but when I worked at an independent shop we saw this front axle issue a lot. A local transmission shop patented a replacement stub shaft design to permanently resolve the problem. The new axles and stub shafts are beefed up to withstand more power/abuse. Apparently these were a weak point on these trucks from the factory. Even dealerships in my whole province get axle kits from this transmission shop instead of using OE parts
rick roods transmission? im about to order their kit.
Wow, good for the dealer
Where is it yous order them from if i can ask?
Dealer tech are awful, but OE parts are meant for OE wear and height, but people want to lift their trucks but dont wanna pay, so they get a shop to do what they want not what they need, OE joint wear a million time faster on lifted truck because of the added angle, the bigger the angle the higher the wear, i saw so many 'no no' in that truck, but people dont ever learn till they need a tow truck and even then they want bare minimum ( good business for tow trucks)
Smart man using the correct tools and leverage to make your job easier. Lots of experience and a quality technician. Your the man Ray.
That spacer is 100% with the lift kit.
At least they went with a kit that lifted the front diff properly
Most kill the front splines on the cv due to excessive angle and destroys the o ring that prevents junk from going in there and causing a vibration
Btw you didn’t put the O ring back in there……
Hey Ray, removing the axles from the diff/tranny can be a real pain sometimes, especially when its a tight fit an there is nothing to pry on. When that happens I get the appropriate size of muffler clamp, and clamp it to the axle hosing, then you can pry on the clamp and it pops out.
Autozone got a loaner tool called the axle popper. Makes its quick and easy to remove those axles.
Ray thank you for making these videos. Not only are they entertaining, but I've learned a lot about vehicles by watching these!
I’m no mechanic beyond the basics, but just knowing a little bit more about it will help keep you from getting screwed
My old lady can show ya a few things about big vibrators and big vibrations. She's always lookin 4 an edge.. I really was wonder why I ain't replaced her u joints or axles yet...
I was shocked that the pry bar wasn't even considered
Hell, I was expecting some torch action.
He is such a hack
Torch would have been my first choice@@edsyphan3425
You know it's tight when you feel the unclick in your shoulder joint.
😂😂😂
My surgeon reattached it😢Have a great weekend
I feel your pain on that front axle Ray, just did one, it looked about the same as yours, I was about ready to give up and start cutting, but my helper held the axle straight, got my big hammer and had him rotate it between hits, it finaly came out
Big hammer energy! 😂
I had a similar issue like this myself. I used a pickle fork. Once I got it where I wanted it,..... gave it a couple of whacks with a hammer and it popped right out. Now no matter if I replace them on front wheel drives or 4x4's,....... once I have it ready to come out the fork is the first tool I pick up.
Yep honestly most of the time a prybar is all it takes and I'm in the salt belt
As am I,.... southern Indiana.
I think it's the even pressure on the circlip that does the trick. One-sided pressure pushes the circlip in the opposite direction causing it to protrude more and hold tighter.
That cv axle setup is nearly identical to my 2005 jeep liberty. I've replaced it and had it apart for other services. It's been an easy pop with a prybar each time. You may have made that a much harder job than necessary, but I suppose we'll never know. Good work either way.
Wait, you think a pry bar would have popped out what an air hammer couldn't?
@yvanauchterloni5923 proper pressure in the correct place and in the correct direction can sometimes be more effective than beating something in the wrong direction.
These issues are exactly why Ford High Boy trucks are so popular and expensive. They were factory lifted without the tension problems of trucks that are not designed to be lifted like they were. I am not a fan of many Ford trucks, but the High Boy Ford's were pretty awesome off-road machines. If only I could afford a restored High-Boy:P
The old High Boy, we had a few of those at my place of employment about 30 years ago. Nice looking trucks.
The spacer comes with the lift kit to extend the front shaft
am I imagining things or did the boot look split where Ray was holding it back with his thumb at 15:00 ?
Didnt see to the end (yet) but heres a quick tip - you should clean the threads of the 4 bolts that hold the shaft through the spacer, run a threader on the threads through the other side and wash away the old loctite, put fresh loctite on the bolts when re-installing them.
Correct and I notice he never puts loctite on many things that need it, only my opinion as a 30 yr mechanic
....yeah...these should get cleaned up and a dab of thread locker
You need to lube your pneumatic hammer. It seems to be binding internally
Thanks for a great job Ray!!! I can now go off-roading with no worries of impending break down. I sure do love my warranty company!!!😊
Ray, there's many a time I've had to resort to the grinder to remove parts. A useful strategy when the part in question is being replaced.
Dude!! 24:50 I’m at the edge of my set (well… toilet seat right now) with anticipation!! Just wait for that sucker to come out and save you a lot of time.
Two Ray videos and good coffee on a Saturday morning, life is good 👊👍🤞
Large trucks are terrible off road! Theyre heavy,wide,long, terrible angles. Idk why people think that just because it has 4wd that its going to be a rock crawler
Or why they put those huge ass lift kits just to navigate the speed bumps in a Walmart parking lot...🤣🤣🤣
@@johnnyx9892ive seen some serious median driving from those off roader pickups
I’ve been looking forward to this drive shaft replacement!
Dodge giving their customers THE SHAFT!!!
When are we, as consumers going to realize these auto makers are GIVING US THE SHAFT?
They have been doing it for years, them and their lying, cheating dealers!
Hence, the $100,000+ TRUCK.................ANOTHER GETTING THE SHAFT EXAMPLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just went thru the same thing on the same side on my ram 1500...that snap ring inside had broke and nearly seized the half shaft to the stub shaft....after beating the half shaft off the stub shaft (which it was all out of the vehicle and clamped down in a pipe vise by that point) I found that it was the splines on the stub shaft that was bad not the splines in the half shaft
Instead of adapter they could of bought actual hub centric wheels 😂😂 them Ram caliper covers looks so stupid lol 😮 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I honestly like the style you got over grease fitting for the driveshaft. Stronger off-road then having a tunnel system for grease. Just my opinion.
Reason OEMs use them is that if you actually service/grease it the ones with the fitting will last longer but most of the clueless public never does and the sealed ones have greater longevity when neglected
@@Onewheelordeal they have no choice but to be neglected 😆 I'd rather the option be mine🤷🏽♂️😆
@@carldalsasso8603 Back in late 70's or early 80's Mercedes switched from using u-joints with grease nipples to the sealed version. The interesting part was that the actual U-joint used the exact same tooling, only they didn't drill and tap them for the grease nipple. So the channels for the grease and everything was still there. So what you could do when you had to swap out worn out u-joints was to buy the new version, drill and tap them and screw in a grease nipple. Problem solved...
What irks me with this truck is that you can't just throw in a new u-joint but have to replace the entire axle. Swapping a u-joint is otherwise a quick and easy job.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 Greed lead to Planned obsolescence in order to artificially create a semi dictatable profit projecting time-line.. Today they just adjust tolerance, meteral quality, in some cases like alot of common household appliances just incorporate a time/use degrading fuse. Along with the right to repair, in my opinion we deserve the option of quality over price.
You are wrong.
Non of the German Cars are Boltcentert.
Without Spacer you get vibrations too.
The Bolts are not strong enough and the Rim will shift on the Hub if you break hard.
From a Mechanik wirth 35 years experience on BM W .
A lot of Aftermarket Rims have Spacer so they fit on different Cars without making a new Center. They change only the boltpattern/diameter.
120mm 5 Bolts old BMW,110mm new BMW and most others.
BMW say you can have a maximum of 0,02mm play.
English by You Tube videos.
From Germany all the best to you.
Ray, if I remember correctly those tools for clamping that “CV” boot clamp are called “Otiker” boot pliers. That spelling may be off because I’m going by memory and it’s been years since I’ve actually looked at an OTC catalog OR any other specialty tool catalog that has those pliers in them. Those are cool tools that you don’t hardly need, but WHEN you do they are life safer s.
This Bee Some Clever Chrysler Engineering , eh. This Lucky Owner about to experience Ram butt extraction of massive cash amounts.
Wow Ray.....need to strap on the bullet proof vest for some of these comments today ! Thanks for taking the time to involve us in your day . I have no skin in your game and don't care how you do it, it's entertaining and that's what I'm after.😊
That front drive shaft aluminum spacer is not a Factory Spacer it's apart of the Lift Kit I do tons of these 6 inch lift kit installs here in Az @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Good morning Ray, I think you did an excellent job getting that rusted shaft apart. Keep up the good work and say hi to Troy, your wife unit and the rest of your family ✌️. As always stay safe, healthy and American Strong 🇺🇸💪🇺🇸
The c clip are so easy why do u make it so hard make sure the clip is laying on top of the shaft open side down it slips right on
Yup, that's what I was gonna say....
Ray, I have been watching your videos regularly for a very long time. You are such a smart guy. You seem to be able to solve any problem, mechanical, electrical, digital, everything. I am so glad you got your own shop. You are going to grow this to multiple locations with a number of employees. I am thrilled for you and the lovely wife unit that you took this leap.
The irony will happen when Rainman Ray franchising takes over both locations of his past employers.
"Offroad", sure thing. Pretty sure it was a parking lot island at the mall looking at those wheels and tires. "Sidewall? We don't need no stinking sidewall"
Looking forward to this
That thing goes off road? Terrible choice of wheels for anything except cruising around trying to look pretty.
That truck is CLEAN!
usa car quallity hahahaha...plastic parts on tyres and on axle..dont buy american car dont waste your money
If you use synthetic boat axle grease it won't wash out like other greases will over time
A lifted truck and 4 wheeling. Is fun for the owner, not so much fun for the repair guy. But he gets $ !
I think you made hard work of that front drive shaft. I think a few hits with the hammer while supporting the CV in a neutral position pops them straight off. I could see it wasn’t solid on the shaft because it was moving. If you did damage that intermediate drive shaft you could kiss that front diff goodbye. Everyone has a different way of doing things but always try the the simple stuff first.
I agree. I think the problem he ran into is that he has too much of an angle with using the air hammer so there isn't enough opposite force and it's is just too much "angled" force if that makes sense.
I think that because he was putting his hand by the head of the air hammer as well it caused there to be even more of an angle.
For one thing, if you pause the video at the 24:46 mark, you can see that his air hammer has a very big "head" on it where you put the shank of the different impacts or accessories in. I believe this is a "quick connect/release" head for different air tools. Also, I think that he should have just used the longer flat blade insert that he was using later in the video at the 31:27 mark. But, instead of try to "push" the CV axle out at the smaller part of the shaft right where it connects to the differential shaft, he should have tried to push it at the same point he was trying to hit it with his blunt end earlier in the video where it is larger. This would have been a more "straight on" angle compared to the steeper angle he was taking.
I agree with you that I think a couple hard hammer hits would have likely gotten that axle shaft out. I think if he had a good pry bar that was about 16" to 20" long that had a blunt end on it that he could whack it with that hammer, one or two blows is all it should have taken.
Another thing I noticed is that he used a lot of brake cleaner that was unnecessary and kind of a waste as well. He should have just grabbed a wire wheel brush and cleaned up the splines properly.
And although he did put more than enough grease on the side going onto the intermediate shaft, he didn't put any on the side going into the wheel hub assembly. I always put some on that side as well because you never know if you'll be the next one having to take it apart next time. He way over uses that brake cleaner in my opinion.
Yep! Hand sledge would have popped it off in two blows max..
@@mikef8769 exactly. You & I have probably done that lots of times.
Either way, not Ray's problem. Corrosion & Abuse has rendered parts as salvage .
@@mikef8769agree 100% sledge hammer and pry bar, they come right off, cutting into it with that rinky dink grinder was never needed, I did many many of these
@ ~6min: BMWs and many German/Euro auto brands may use lug *bolts* instead of lug nuts, but the wheels are absolutely hubcentric.
As a driveline tech.... that aluminum spacer is after market and should most definitely be taken to a driceshaft shop for the driveshaft to be lengthened.... you will continue to have problems!
that was hard work ray! i dont know why others try to tell you how to do the job..its easy when you are watching..not doing.the way they suggested was the way you attempted it...but the amount of rust build up was preventing to splines to seperate.good work ray!
A few well place hits with a decent hammer is all that is required to knock these off. BEFORE you go off half cocked, it is a job I CAN do pretty much IN MY SLEEP. In other words, I was doing this kind of work frequently. To loosen the rusted ones, I simply knocked the outer part of the CV joint side to side a few times, then knocked the shaft off with the hammer by hitting the diff side of the CV joint.
It would have been better served if you said why do others tell you how to the job "after the fact" . The owner of the truck has probably already burned several tanks of gas by the time this video came out. The rust build up in the slip yokes was due in most part likely caused by the drivelines inability to function properly by adding the aftermarket lift kit, plus no factory install zerk grease fittings
I totally agree with you there are quite a few armchair mechanics giving unsolicited advice. JMO
@@markraday8071 As there are quite a few well trained / experienced armchair mechanics, some with teaching level abilities who are willing to offer good sound advice.
@@IR-nq4qv you said it right "experienced, well trained, professional. Sometimes the way things are written can be a little condescending. I guess I'm Old School. Again just my opinion ✌️👍
What is that skid plate 3/8ths plate steel? I would’ve used the trans jack!
I’m just shocked he didn’t use an axle popper. That tool makes it easier to remove the axle since it’s puts even pressure all around the axle shaft and forces it over the c clip. But overall good job I love your videos. I’m a DIY mechanic for my vehicles lol, I’ve learned a lot. I kinda wanna see a video of the power tools you have.
Axle popper won't help when they are rusted that bad. I speak from experience. The only thing better is a bigger air hammer
I think your air hammer might benefit from a few drops of pneumatic tool oil
Wow! Half shafts can be trouble but that is crazy. Nice work!
I THINK THE most sand this truck has seen is the parking lot you have LOL 😊
Customer: You quoted me $700 for parts and Labor!
Mechanic: That's if the job took 2.5 hours like it said in the Labor manual, your Hunk of Junk was Loaded with Rust, it took more than 5 hours, I broke two easy outs, three drill bits and 7 cut off wheels, that's why your bill is $1,100. When you work on your own truck, when you bring me a STOCK truck not full of Rust THEN your bill might be $700. Reality kicks in for the Mechanic all day, Reality kicks in for the customer when the Bill comes Due. As I've said before, Ray, I've been in your shoes. It's a Young man's game, better you than me!
European cars are hub centric. using lug centric with lug bolt will be difficult and having wheel stud is actually way more easier to be lug centric. though, i dont think modern car uses lug centric from factory anymore. all i've seen been hub centric
Wow Ray destroyed axel another outstanding video Ray but the most important thing is to have your self a great day Ray
Use the green marine grade grease. Repels water much better than the red grease.
Hope your child is doing well, removing tonsils is never really fun.
It's another good repair with your skills.
Holy crap at how loud the Alen Screws for the skid plate are clicking on removal 😮 power clicks so you know its on there good @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Its definatly an after market spacer, My dodge does not have one.
"Pry-Bars" solve all problems. When you get married a Pry-Bar should be either issued to you at the wedding or your best friend who is a Auto Tech should give you one as a wedding gift! LoL
I usually knock them off with a big hammer. Too easy. Done that lots of times.
Monster trucks make us so much money and look cool at the Mall. Not a fan myself, even though I like making money I know they'll always be back surprised something broke again.
Like cars that ride 2" off the road. lol
Atleast the new drive shaft had a Serviceable u joint
They should drill and tap the axel for for a grease zerks, and have a thin splined piston, to fit in to allow a grease gun to remove the axel , the cavity deep inside with the 2mm thick plastic in the bottom, with the grease entering deeper inside, forming a grease /hydraulic ram to remove the axel when stuck, maybe use a plug, and the zero needing to be added, to prevent the unknowing from greasing it! There is a lot of ways to make it easy to fix, the factory is not interested in things out of warranty, they want to sell new cars not repair old!
They did not mean it can’t be repaired they meant that it’s a dodge it’s not worth the cost
This is going to be a very good video..............Thanks Ray
Had my tonsils removed Made the Constant Issues with Bronchitis and phenomenon stop happening as well As the constant headaches and ear infections go away hope little Man Feels better soon @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Yo Ray, how about a small round wire brush on a drill turning parallel to the splines ?
One would think, as expensive as Ram trucks are, that the factory could spring for .25 cents in grease for those axles. Great job getting that out.
💯
Carburetors and grease fittings, I kind of miss them!!
And word of the day is "rigmarole".
Micro Rust Belt phenomena!!!
I’m sure everyone watching this video recognizes a mechanic who knows his business.
If I was anywhere close to driving distance from your shop, I would hope you’d be able to schedule in my trucks for all servicing.
Has this guy ever heard of a TORCH
My wife and I had A business for 24 years and she and I worked every day together for 19 of the 24 years. It was great. Still married and closing in rapidly on 40. Keep on keeping on.
So , folks - when you see your bill be cool ! Lots of clever labour + parts $ = nice truck !
Owner Definitely Got The 'Shaft' !
Love the super secret videos @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Got to hate when your splines wear out can be such a Killer Vibe 😂😂 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
going into 4WD with street tires is about as useful as Ice Skating up hill.
Seems like they should make bridges out of those snap rings.
IMHO, When reinstalling the drive shaft, I’ve always found it easier when the opening of the spring clip is placed at the bottom of the spline. That way gravity keeps most of the clip submerged in the groove and the shaft has less spring to compress. YMMV.
I love these family shows. Hi, Wife Unit. Oh, you too Ray.
I bet this owner no longer drinks Bud Light.
I know this video is older but yes, die grinder and a few minutes of time will usually make a non-serviceable u-joint into a serviceable one. I've even gone as far as to replace steering shaft u-joints in this manner 😮
The axles are going to fail again. You put grease on the splines. All that's going to do is attract and hold sand and dirt and wear out the splines. Easiest way to get the shafts off is with a GM 4x4 truck torsion bar (one that has broke off one end) and a 4# sledge. Air hammer is just going to tickle it. I'm in Michigan and we know a little bit about rust. I'm a retired master mechanic (49 years on the job) and it was painful to see you struggle with that axle. We just put the bar on them and whack it a few times and they pop right off. Oh, and that truck is NOT a Dodge. It's a Fiat Ram. I have a 2011 Ram 1500 4x4 with 334,562 miles on it. All OE, even the exhaust system.
How often do you change the transmission fluid and the rear differential fluid? I have a 2019 ram 1500 with 62k miles, and I'm thinking about changing the the rear differential fluid now and transmission soon. Thanks for any input.
@@michaelsnively3621I never changed the fluids, just the engine oil. Full synthetic right from day one. The other fluids are still clean and up to proper levels with the exception of the rear diff, I was hit in the left rear wheel and the axle shaft got bent so it was changed with the bodyshop repairs. No drips anywhere. It's going to get it's 3rd set of spark plugs next month because they have 130,000 on them. Going to replace the coils while I have them off, they're OE.
@@alanrouse7285 Wow, that is great. Congratulations. I sure hope my trucks keeps running like your's.
You use a lot of this stuff. Check and see if TCE is in it... It was banned in 1977. Chlorinated brake cleaners are comprised of Perchloroethylene (Perc), Methylene Chloride (MeCl), and Trichloroethylene (TCE), which are considered Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs).
Hey Ray, I’ve owned many Cummins diesal 2500. They always shaked at 50 70 miles an hour. Even with new tires. I was wondering if it was because the wheels don’t have that hub centric spacer? The wheel size is 20 inch. I was wondering if that spacer might remedy this shake? I love your videos and look forward to the next. THANKYOU
Long live the doge truck.
Fiat crap ,,I would never buy this crap ever ,,The Dodge boys are doing flip flops in there graves ,,TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting great information super kool,
AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ ,keep up the great work.
The spacer is part of the lift kit
So dumb that you can't just change the u-joint, I had this same issue with a 2006 Chevy Equinox, a cheap drive shaft was $300 bucks, a u-joint wouldn't cost near that, That thing stayed a front wheel drive, at least GM made it work like that, rather than anormal awd cars.
I had a short wheel base chevy Silverado with a 6 in lift. i had grease pins in the U-Joints and everywhere there was rubber on metal. Had to take off the front wheels and re-grease the bearings every Monday after playing in the mud all weekend. Had a 350 corvette motor with vortex heads that would loupe after it got hot. best truck i ever had. expensive toy to play in though. Tap the gas and the front tires would jump a beer can. Love my trucks and cars from the 80's. My regular car was a chevy cutlass supreme with a 350 rocket in it. top speed 160 MPH. I hate modern trucks and cars. Can rebuild anything from 293 to 350 big block or small. had the Chilton burned into my mind. you do good work man. keep it up.
WTF, YOU CAN'T EVEN CHANGE A U-JOINT ? HAVE TO REPLACE WHOLE DAMN DRIVESHAFT ? NICE DODGE ENGINEERS, REAL FREAKIN NICE.
Whats a driveshaft cost ? $150 to say $500 instead of $25 for a u-joint ? KRAZY.
Why not just buy the right damn rims for the truck ? Running those hub rings are just stupid IMHO. I've been there as a teenager, NOT GOOD.
NO Castle nuts on the Ball Joint or Tie Rod nuts ? WOW.
Things got real when the escalation is a Cut off wheel 😂 gotta love being a mechanic life is never the same on every job @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Omg 11.2 mpg, i dont miss my hemi
Yup, just recently had the front end of my FJ serviced. Typical CV joints and worn bushings. Just replace it all because it’s cheaper. At least the metal will be recycled but it seems so wasteful
I feel like if you went to the big beater right away you may not have needed the grinder.
What I don't get is that you have people making the stance wider with spacers or something.....wouldn't that make it so its easier to get your truck high centered, striking your drive train?
Just wondering why you removed the upper ballpoint and tie rod instead of just removing the lower ball joint? Never seen anyone else do it from the top , I was taught to remove the lower one and usually that was all I needed to remove.
Yes, that was my question, earlier on. I thought maybe there’s something special about the RAM that makes this way better. Turns out, from reading the replies I got, the bottom joint is hard to do, while the top one is, as we saw, very easy. I guess, once you know, this way might be quicker, but I’d certainly have tried the bottom joint first, until it defeated me.