Since you have the lathe, I would machine the back of the wheel hubs where the brakes are mounted to flat enough to where the rotors have a flat spot to set against. Those hubs are made from cast and the tolerances on where the lugs go in are horrendous. They just leave them as it is as it does not matter what the tolerances are since its just a spot to hold the wheel onto the hub. The wobble that is shown in the video will wear through brake pads so fast even if it is a smooth rotor.
I love that when Mrs. Red Beard is filming, she holds the camera so very smooth. Some You-Tube channels, while they film, shake their camera way too much and zoom in and out so much and so quick that it makes it hard to watch what's actually going on. Keep up the good work Mrs. Red Beard!! It really makes a difference. Your skills are great.
Hey red beard!!! net time you are mounting up a caliper hook it to your air compressor and it'll hold it right in place for you to weld in, works like a charm!!!!!
That’s a nice ride there, if I’d ever thought of building my own rides growing up there’s no telling what all id be doing by now, I was fortunate enough to have a dad who could afford to buy all my 3 wheelers and dirt bikes growing up, he was a master machinist , if id ever mentioned it I know he’d been able to machine anything id needed, about the only things being built back then were people turning VW’s into dune buggy’s
I am hoping that rotor wobble was due to the lug nuts not being tight or even on. Otherwise the hub casting might need to be faced on the lathe. The backside is not a finished side, that is the raw casting. I run those same rotors on my golf cart but use the wheel to sandwich the rotor to the hub.
@@RedBeardsGarage Do you realize that brake rotors are allowed only a few thousandths of an inch (0.002") run-out, or the 'wobble' you guys are referring to. You may be able to get away with maybe as much as 0.005" on a go-kart. Yes i agree that you should locate the bearing bore of the hub or just indicate the flange of the hub to align with lathe rotating axes in order to insure that the brake rotor is parallel to the rotation of the wheel. or aligned with the rotational axes of the wheel. then take a clean up cut off the back side of the hub then and only then will it be true enough. You could also determine a dimension from the newly machined face to the wheel flange, or from the bearing bore, to make a consistent and repeatable 'brake hub' from the wheel hub so that all the brake systems you build from now on are the same.
This build is my favorite. My mate years ago built something similar but used a KTM 450 the thing was a weapon. Can't wait for the ride video Nice one Mr Red beard 🤙
@@RedBeardsGarage That’s good, had me worried for a sec. I’d love to build something like this and or the Sema build. Love the upbeat vibe or your videos, keep up the good work!
@@RedBeardsGarage Do you know how to check run-out with a dial indicator? If that is information that you think would be valuable to you, than I think you could find the procedures on line and certainly on UA-cam. Checking for rotor run-out on automotive brake systems is common procedure in the industry. Thanks, John Toolan, Auto Mechanic, Machinist, Craftsman and Fabricator. Also have practiced skills in, Electrical systems, Hydraulic systems, Pneumatic systems, Welding, Sheet metal, and, Mechanical Engineering. Also, would like to say that your idea for putting these components together is very creative, and very sound Engineering. I love to build with off the shelf components that are cheap and abundant. And I Engineer my projects so that the assemblies can be repaired or replaced with ease and simplicity anywhere the maintenance is performed, or, the break-down may occur, out on the road, out in the back woods, or in the drive way, anywhere in the Country, any State. No need for proprietary parts or assemblies that can be had from only one source, not with this kind of build. Good job!
That is just genius. Basically spare autozone parts to make a custom 4 wheel disc brakes setup. Never in a million years would i think to myself "hey lets take a rear miata rotor and some cheap trailer hubs and make a custom disk brake setup"
I took an idea from Coleman for my fl459 build. A simple bracket with a bolt, spring and a couple nuts will give you a simple parking brake. You will have to manually reach down to set it, but once you press the pedal the spring retracts the bolt and the pedal is free to move back and forth. Helps me on my hilly yard when opening the gates and it also helps with creep too.
Whats up with gravy bones kart kits man you still doing them? You should start making weld on parts like vintage manco front bumpers motovox hydraulic brake adapter plate reverse box mount i think your doing that but theres tons of stuff ppl dont make and would sell good
Just saying this to no one in particular, but these high mounted radiators, if heaven forbid there should be a failure of the radiator, a split, cap comes off etc., the thought of a 180 degree shower is just too much lol. I’d have to shield myself from that somehow.
Hi Red, new fan here. Question: would those brake caliper brackets benefit from having a small angled piece giving them sideways stability? I'm not a welder or a builder (yet), so I'm curious if that would be helpful or just overkill.
Since you have the lathe, I would machine the back of the wheel hubs where the brakes are mounted to flat enough to where the rotors have a flat spot to set against. Those hubs are made from cast and the tolerances on where the lugs go in are horrendous. They just leave them as it is as it does not matter what the tolerances are since its just a spot to hold the wheel onto the hub. The wobble that is shown in the video will wear through brake pads so fast even if it is a smooth rotor.
I noticed the rotor wobble myself.
Agreed.
Yeah that wobble made me cringe
I love that when Mrs. Red Beard is filming, she holds the camera so very smooth. Some You-Tube channels, while they film, shake their camera way too much and zoom in and out so much and so quick that it makes it hard to watch what's actually going on. Keep up the good work Mrs. Red Beard!! It really makes a difference. Your skills are great.
Hey red beard!!! net time you are mounting up a caliper hook it to your air compressor and it'll hold it right in place for you to weld in, works like a charm!!!!!
That long neck on there is perfect. It's the best possible fill point for the cooling system.
I’d leave the radiator neck the way it is cause it adds character.
I say leave the long neck and if it still bothers you when you disassemble for paint, you can change it then.
I think the radiator neck looks fine and add extra fluid capacity.
Im getting Running Man vibes on the cart though..
You can always use air to compress those calipers 👍🏻. Works like a charm and you don’t have the mess of the brake fluid
That’s a nice ride there, if I’d ever thought of building my own rides growing up there’s no telling what all id be doing by now, I was fortunate enough to have a dad who could afford to buy all my 3 wheelers and dirt bikes growing up, he was a master machinist , if id ever mentioned it I know he’d been able to machine anything id needed, about the only things being built back then were people turning VW’s into dune buggy’s
this is actually an amazing idea. im gonna use this one
Love your videos and truly appreciate the Bible verses you are now adding to the videos also
I would leave that neck since its easier to fill or it looks like it is anyway 👍
I am hoping that rotor wobble was due to the lug nuts not being tight or even on. Otherwise the hub casting might need to be faced on the lathe. The backside is not a finished side, that is the raw casting. I run those same rotors on my golf cart but use the wheel to sandwich the rotor to the hub.
It was the lug studs not seated all the way. Saw it while editing and fixed it after the video.
@RedBeardsGarage how come your didn't sandwich the rotor between the rim and hub and when to the ba k instead?
@@jamesbryant7355may have needed the clearance between the rotor and wheel to make the calipers fit 🤷🏻♂️
@@RedBeardsGarage Do you realize that brake rotors are allowed only a few thousandths of an inch (0.002") run-out, or the 'wobble' you guys are referring to. You may be able to get away with maybe as much as 0.005" on a go-kart. Yes i agree that you should locate the bearing bore of the hub or just indicate the flange of the hub to align with lathe rotating axes in order to insure that the brake rotor is parallel to the rotation of the wheel. or aligned with the rotational axes of the wheel. then take a clean up cut off the back side of the hub then and only then will it be true enough. You could also determine a dimension from the newly machined face to the wheel flange, or from the bearing bore, to make a consistent and repeatable 'brake hub' from the wheel hub so that all the brake systems you build from now on are the same.
This build is my favorite. My mate years ago built something similar but used a KTM 450 the thing was a weapon. Can't wait for the ride video
Nice one Mr Red beard 🤙
That is a genius brake build! Well done!
I've seen people just use air pressure to operate calipers for mocking up the mount.
Also @ the 9min mark it looks like that rotor is wobbly.
It wasn’t seated all the way. It’s fixed now.
@@RedBeardsGarage That’s good, had me worried for a sec. I’d love to build something like this and or the Sema build.
Love the upbeat vibe or your videos, keep up the good work!
@@RedBeardsGarage Do you know how to check run-out with a dial indicator? If that is information that you think would be valuable to you, than I think you could find the procedures on line and certainly on UA-cam. Checking for rotor run-out on automotive brake systems is common procedure in the industry. Thanks, John Toolan, Auto Mechanic, Machinist, Craftsman and Fabricator. Also have practiced skills in, Electrical systems, Hydraulic systems, Pneumatic systems, Welding, Sheet metal, and, Mechanical Engineering. Also, would like to say that your idea for putting these components together is very creative, and very sound Engineering. I love to build with off the shelf components that are cheap and abundant. And I Engineer my projects so that the assemblies can be repaired or replaced with ease and simplicity anywhere the maintenance is performed, or, the break-down may occur, out on the road, out in the back woods, or in the drive way, anywhere in the Country, any State. No need for proprietary parts or assemblies that can be had from only one source, not with this kind of build. Good job!
All that gravy makes for genius mind 😂 ☮️✌️
That is just genius. Basically spare autozone parts to make a custom 4 wheel disc brakes setup. Never in a million years would i think to myself "hey lets take a rear miata rotor and some cheap trailer hubs and make a custom disk brake setup"
I took an idea from Coleman for my fl459 build. A simple bracket with a bolt, spring and a couple nuts will give you a simple parking brake. You will have to manually reach down to set it, but once you press the pedal the spring retracts the bolt and the pedal is free to move back and forth. Helps me on my hilly yard when opening the gates and it also helps with creep too.
Should have put a build like in comment
That's a nice setup for the brakes and rotors. Love it!
Hey Red that disk wave more than my grandma as I leave her house, face off the back side buddy 👌🏻
Leave the long neck making filling the radiator easier
Keep the longer neck. Could be a benefit when filling up the radiator and engine with coolant.
Great job Greg , really enjoy your videos
Did you open up the rotor pattern from 100mm to 4"? I like the idea but wonder how you compensated for bolt pattern with out wobble.
Are you going to have some type of barrier between the back of your head/back and a possible catastrophic coolant issue burning you or someone else?
Try the flare tool that goes on a drill
Wats up red Beard!
Leave the giraffe neck radiator fill neck. Extra fluid capacity.
Those wheels🔥
I dnt think it looks bad. I would just leave the fill neck.
Whats up with gravy bones kart kits man you still doing them? You should start making weld on parts like vintage manco front bumpers motovox hydraulic brake adapter plate reverse box mount i think your doing that but theres tons of stuff ppl dont make and would sell good
Any chance of 420/460 Dyno run power development?
We need a new road to hp video!
Nice
Why use a 450 engine? They seem like they would be a little high strung and not enough torque for something of that weight?
More Dyno videos please!
Beleza muito bom 👍👍👍😎
Nice work as always 💕👌🦇😁👍 from cruzermans inventions alternator manskee😂🎉
@Red Beard's Garage what radiator is that?
When bending brake lines weed eater string is ur friend! Slide it in and bend it and jerk it out
What size wheel do you have to use for this brake setup?
Very manly banana you got there on the radiator.
Leave it
Honestly I would leave the radiator neck the way it is lol.
How come you didnt go over the front face of the hub instead of knocking out the studs and going to the back.
I would cut if your not happy with it. I agree with your opinion that it looks off.
Leave it as is .
Save the duel radiator nipples..may want a heater one day!
Id leave it
Use air to hole it
Just saying this to no one in particular, but these high mounted radiators, if heaven forbid there should be a failure of the radiator, a split, cap comes off etc., the thought of a 180 degree shower is just too much lol. I’d have to shield myself from that somehow.
Ide choose a much better engine cuz the yz450 trans is close ratio
i be the crash test dummy😂
WR 450 motor has electric start - still no reverse though…. Raptor engine though 😂😂😂
leave it, it looks fine to me
If the filler neck isn't broken, don't try to fix it
Wear pants that fit you...other than that, I live the channel
Hi Red, new fan here. Question: would those brake caliper brackets benefit from having a small angled piece giving them sideways stability? I'm not a welder or a builder (yet), so I'm curious if that would be helpful or just overkill.
Great work as always!
Leave the 🪿 neck, it's fine!
When you get a chance buy an electric start engine for the buggy
Please leave it and paint a face on the front .
Cut it.
Just leave the neck
Leave it quit trying to find other things to do get that thing running, so we can see it