My dream audio setup. A custom head unit I am designing with 6 channel output -> DSP with at least 8 channel output, but 11/12 preferred -> 3 way fronts, 2 way rears, dual subs. Going for a sound quality build for long road trips so this would also involve sound proofing the entire car. I have most of this setup already, just need to get the DSP and finish my head unit. Really appreciate the video, and thanks for revisiting / updating this kind of content. Been watching you on and off for years and it really helps!
I went with an android tablet "head unit" with USB-C connection to a Behringer DAC with TOSLINK connection to DSP. Straight through digital signal to the DSP. The sound quality is very impressive. I did this 5 years ago now so I would say better options exist but eliminating analog to digital conversions along the chain seem to be more easily achievable these days.
Man I'm 43 and still a basshead. I'm so stuck lately because my midbsss is lacking (Infinity 6.5 comp set x 2). I'd LOVE to have like 4 8"s, 2 10"s, and then my 2 18"s on a switch in my console so I could turn the 18s off when I want to listen to something that SHOULD be listened to in a sealed box, hence the 8s and 10s.
I've had every speaker size in my vehicle back in the day, except an 18. But now im a disabled Army Vet with 2 teenage daughters, I can't afford to buy a good stereo anymore. But my dream is to one day FINALLY have 1 18" sub with a good amp and show my girls how I used to roll. But I guess thats why they call it a dream. But keep making these great videos. Love the way you breakdown the more technical parts of car audio. Be safe and blessed brother. And have a great Memorial weekend.
Just recently finished my stereo build in my 2013 F150 SuperCrew. Hertz Mille Pro 163.3 3-way component system up front in custom pillars. Hertz Mille Pro 6.5 coaxial in the rear doors. For subs, I used 4 JL Audio 10TW3 D-4 under the rear seat. Front and rear are powered by JL Audio HD600/4 and the subs are powered by JL Audio HD 1200/1. Amps tuned to proper gain voltage and time alignment for all speakers. Entire cab of the truck, including the actual door panels, was covered in Sound Skins Pro sound deadening. Couldn't be happier with the outcome.
I am presently building my dream system in my dream truck, 2018 Raptor. System consists of Knukoncepts power, signal, speaker wiring, and fuse/distribution. Source: factory head unit using NAVTV A2B adapter Amps: JL Audio XD800/8 & 1000/1 Speakers: 1pair-Hertz Mille Legend 280 tweeters in a-pillars 2pairs-Hz Pro165.3, one pair in front and rear doors with complete sound deadening Subs: 2-Sundown Audio SD4 12d4 in custom enclosure led lit with 3 logos, down firing, enclosure under rear seat by SoundsGood stereo. All speaker brackets laser cut by SoundsGood stereo. DSPs: Micro Epicenter (when available) MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL Can’t wait to get it all installed and EQ’d. Doing all the work myself because I used to do this for a living… great job on explaining everything to the masses in all your videos.
I've been subscribed for several years and I'm reviewing these videos again because I am working on upgrading the sound in my car. You have fantastic information and provide an invaluable service to us! The only things I might add to this video's great information: 1) The wire from the battery to the distribution block does not show any kind of fuse or circuit breaker for protection at the battery, but I know that you would do that. 2) The additional load of the DSP that the main wire has to carry. It may be only 5 or 10 amps, but it has to be considered, so the main wire will be carrying 161 or 166 amps.
I didn't notice, but you're right. anyway, with such a good power wire between battery and distribution block there's nothing wrong with adding a fuse with more capacity than needed, like 175A, or maybe even 200A my car has 180A stock alternator, I got a 35mm2 (2 gauge?) power wire with a 175A fuse next to the battery. my amps should in theory max out at about 93A with my setup atm. sub is 2x350W, doors are 4x75W, but I added 5W to each door because of passive crossovers, just for the theorethical max. engine idles at 13,8V, voltage drop thru the cables are just 0,04V (with chassis as ground, tnx VW for making good cars that are horrible to work on because of tight spacing)
For my dream system (assuming this is for my current car/build): JY Lithium and GP 320a alternator, Focal K Series Elite for the front components and rear coaxial, RF T1000AD for mids/high power. Knuconcepts lime colored 4/0 wiring, b2 Falcon or Osprey powering 2 Sundown Zv6 12s in a customized 6cuft trunk wall (because it'll have to be a pentagon shape to reach that volume in my Elantra's trunk). I'll keep my Pioneer 2660NEX or upgrade to the newer version of that line as I'm pretty happy with it. Mark: you have nearly single-handedly taught me everything I needed to know when starting out in car audio. Your videos taught me everything from how to run wire to understanding the construction of a solid box and how to read T/S parameters. Whenever someone asks me how I learned so much so quickly I point them towards you. Thank you for all of the knowledge and knowing how to teach.
My dream car audio system is what im currently working on just need a different DSP and a D-1200 with my current Lc-400 and LC-800 Morels are already done, need a complete sound treatment for a 2011 Dodge Durango. My power and ground are KnuKoncepts 0 gauge with 4 gauge at the distros
@@gjenkins1660 I discovered how great they sounded when I added power to them and I mean 160 watts rms........I was sold at that point and i have had alot of speakers since, I had the original MB Quartz back in the early 90's so my listening ear is a little bougie LOL
Dream audio system: 3 way c7 components in the front and 2 way c7 components in the rear, 2 12w7ae subwoofers all powered at full capacity with as much sound insulation as will fit in the vehicle
So for my Dream System: Source: I'm not super picky here. As long as it's a quality MFG and fits well in the vehicle then I'm mainly concerned with features. Android Auto is a Must. But then so is a CD/DVD Player. Most streaming music is lower quality than CDs. Trying to get max system quality while using low grade streamed music is pointless. No amount of acoustical treatment and DSP will ever increase the quality of the source signal. Yes there's services like Tidal, and they are getting better. But I still like OWNING my music. If I purchase albums and/or videos (Inc movies) from a streaming service and that company goes out of business later on then I no longer "own" that material. And YES I'm old, but I'm also not wrong 😛. LOL SPEAKERS: Subs: JL Audio, Only and Always. Either 10/12 W6(s) or 13.5TW5 if tight spacing is an issue. The W7s are amazing, but their also designed more for SPL (but with strong SQL remaining) while the W6 is more max SQL and achieving the most SPL within that standard. Mids/Highs: The best I've ever owned go way way back, the a/d/s 325is which were legendary SQL in their time. I still own my set. And while I look forward to hearing them again I doubt they still sound as good having been boxed and unused for years. I haven't listened to them yet but looking around I think the Morel's are the type of sound I look for given their construction and materiel choices. Today I would go with a 3-way system up front with powerful 6.5s in the doors and the 3.5s & 1in Tweeters (no smaller) ideally in A-pillar pods. Each individually processed and amplified with its own channel. Then I would have a pair of either 6.5 or 6x9 co-axials in the back. Again, ideally on the back panel firing into the back window rather than low in the doors. These would be Bandpassed roughly from 300 to roughly 2.5 kHz. That would be based on listening, I only want it functioning as backfill simulating the reverberance of a larger listening space while not interfering with the sound stage of the front. Processor: I've looked at specs and read reviews of a bunch of DSPs lately. I'd start naming a bunch but I'm taking a bit too long on this. So I'll just say given the budget I'd go with the Helix systems. Amps: Probably JL Audio but I'd be open to other possibilities. The idea of going A/B for the Front/Rears and D on the Sub's is honestly appealing to me though. So I could be swayed elsewhere so long as the quality was top notch.
High end Focal system well placed speakers no large custom door panels with multiple woofers. A few decent subwoofers, could be Focal or Sundown. Stinger dash. Excellent sound deadening for a foundation.
My Dream System: semi-SQ Build in 08 Yaris 2dr RS. Sound Deadening through out as needed: Noico 80mil, Wiring/Distribution: Stinger, Head Unit: Kenwood DNX997XR, Into DSP: Audio Control DM-810, Front Stage Speakers: JL Audio C3-650 in coax config with Stinger fast rings, Rear Stage Speakers: None, plan to keep all speakers facing driver, Subwoofer: 1 - 10" JL Audio 10W6v3D4 in sealed custom fibreglass/mdf enclosure using the Spare Tire Well space, Amplification: Front Stage 1 JL-Audio XD200/2v2, Subwoofer:XD600/1v2. That would be about it! Enough to rock my daily driver... i think so. Cheers Rob
Dream setup ? For a 3rd gen Jimny used offroad : Alpine Halo head unit, 2*3-way component system in front (6.5"+4"+tweeter) with custom door pod, 2*4" coaxial in back, 12 inch sub in a ported box, preferably all speakers with some water resistant rating just in case. Everything powered by MVi amps from JL Audio and linked to an onboard PC you can access from the head unit (HDMI input) for configuration. Add a secondary source accessible from outside the car and some quick disconnect watersport 2*8" pod speakers (powered by the same MVi amps) for when you're chilling with the bois and don't want to unleash the 2000W+ beast with no alternator running. And of course a bigger alternator cause the stock one won't do
My Dream? For my "14" Srx, is replace all the Bose with a Focal (Flax) 3-way running active, custom install front stage, to include the rear doors and trunk with Focal Flax full range speakers, Flax 12's for lows, custom spare tire build, along with custom amp racks, to keep it useable and stealthy. Audio Control products would run everything for me.
I'm working on a "dream system" in my jeep. Currently running 2 10s and 2 12s in the back each on a mono amp. Then I have 2 4ch amps running ds18 dash components and horns. Adding in 4 8in mids 2 tweeters and 2 horns in a custom sound bar.
I'm currently building my dream system. All JL Audio because I fell in love with the VXi series off amps the moment I saw them. Im going to be running an active three way with the C7 and the C3 components for the rear doors running off the VX800/8i and then two W7 12s running off a VX1000/1i each in a custom built box. Going to have the Sony XAV9500ES as a head unit. All going into my 06 Ram 2500 diesel. Going to be a good spring project.
Dream system... JL Audio C7 3 way component system in the front, JL audio C7 2 way component in the back, 2 13TW5 subs in a sealed box, VXi 600/6 amp for the front, VXi 400/4 for the back, HD 1200/1 amp for the subs. 2 dedicated batteries for the system and a pair of cond3nsors from stinger. All conected to a stinger HEIGH 10 head unit
Update I'm finally geting into building a system for my mini van, I am actually gonna use a 3 way in front and a 2 way in the back (although a coaxial). I'm using Focal Access right now as my speakers, so I'm using the 3 way access set and the Access 6x9 coaxial in the back. Then, I'm gonna use a small DB srive euphoria 4 channel amp 75x4 watts rms and I will add an active subwoofer, probably one from Cerwin vega or DB Drive. I also have a very nice project for an Express Van. Not defined yet, but I would like to have a JL Audio C3 component in the front, the C2 6x9 coaxials on the OEM location (low inside the back doors) and a set of C2 4 inch coaxials on the last OEM location (in ceiling of the very back). For the sub, a 2 subwoofer setup under the front seats (1 sealed box below each front seat). All powered by a 4 channel RD amp for the front speakers, an RD series Sub amp for the subs and a JD series 4 channel for the back speakers. Finally I have a dream build for a WV bug using a 3 way C7 component in the front and a C3 5x7" coaxial setup in the back, complimented by a pair of TW3's. For now, I will see how my system performs with the inexpensive 3 way + 6x9 coaxial setup and a shallow active subwoofer. I hope it performs okay. BTW, whoever is planning to use a C7 3 way, think about the Focal access 3 way to replace those nice components once you decide to sell the vehicle. It costs like 1/10th or less
Honestly a recreation of a former system I competed with would be my dream system. Was also last system my mom heard in a rig of mine before she passed. Three way cdt audio system up front, 225 hcca bridged running each side passive, 250 hcca running 8 Orion xtr 8 inch subs in a wall. Linear power x02 crossover and audio control eql. That was a fun system.
Man they don't make amps like the Redline anymore. Orion subs and amps were amazing before they sold to Hott Setup. Pro Tip, if they sell it at Best Buy is probably low/ midgrade. R.I.P. Orion HCCA, Phoenix Gold, and PPI
My dream system has 8 tweeters, 6 mid range drivers, 4 woofers, 4 full range drivers, 4 8inch subwoofers, and 2 14inch subwoofers. A grand total of 28 speakers across 28 channels. 8,000 watts of pure and perfect audio bliss. $30,000 in equipment.
With all due respect do whatever you like but i want to understand the purpose of it. Even the music ain't made for 28 speakers and is it even gonna be any different?
My current dream with no budget in mind would be for my quad cab... Kenwood DNR1008RVS head unit, two 10" Infinity Kappa sealed, 3 way Component Infinity Kappa Actively controlled front, 2 way component infinity Kappa rear(I'd settle passive), 6 channel amplifier front, 4 channel rear amplifier and 2 channel rear Sub amplifier, 12 Channel DSP, and Good thorough Sound deadening of the body. I don't want loud obnoxious bass, I want clear clean when quiet up to full control range. Don't have any idea which specific amps I want I haven't shopped for amps in forever so the stuff I used to look at don't exist anymore, Don't know of any 12 channel DSP that are good.
Great channel and good work! You asked about our no holes barred build? Here's mine: I own a 2008 Ram 3500 Quad Cab Dually with some existing JL component speakers. 1 pair 4" Z series components in the dash. 3 JL tweets across the dash also, one as a "center" channel. 1 pair of 6.5 components in the front doors. 1 pair of 5.25's in the rear doors. All powered by a HD400.4 amp that's toasted. For bass, I was running a single JL 13v3 4ohm in a fiberglass and wood tube I made. 1 JL HD600.1 powered that sub and it too toasted. My factory alternator over volted and I believe that was the cause of the amplifier failure. I've since upgraded my amp to a 420A unit. Anyways, I want to upgrade all my component speakers and amps to the highest JL lines. I want to make a fiberglass rear seat back wall with the older 13TW5 subs. I may be able to use 3-5 on that wall. I had built a fiberglass spare tire well box for a 2014 Mazda 2 with the 13TW5 about 10 years ago and I really enjoyed it in that car.
You are basically building my dream system in your F150. I have a 2020 Ram 1500 and all the same speakers are on my crutchfield wish list. I love the JL C6’s. Though I am looking at the vehicle specific JL under seat dual 10 preloaded box. Since I don’t the experience or know how or tools to build my own custom box at this point. Prices are just a bit out of control pushing it out of my budget. Crutchfield also states to keep my factory head unit and offers no replacement options.
Great video, would like to hear your thoughts on ways to tackle rear fill through a DSP. From my research there’s definitely some different schools of thought on this!
My dream System would be for a 2015 Volkswagen Golf. I would get 2 tweeters for the corners of the dash, 4 speakers behind the door panels, 5 underseat Subwoofers. 2 under the front seats and 3 under the backseats. On the backing of the seats I would mount 3 high quality amps and the rest required in high quality
@CarAudioFabrication, Hey Mark, Dream audio system: First gen Chevy S-10 lowrider standard cab with pass through to a carpeted and tonneau covered bed, LS swap and built automatic trans of course, Sparco seats, custom console , Alpine head unit, Audio Control crossover/dsp with rta, fully active three way mids and highs setup using either Dynaudio or Focal tweeters, 3 inch mids, and 8 inch midbass drivers, all Rockford Fosgate power series amplification, three subs in ported box, JL Audio or Sundown, 12's or 13.5's, or maybe 15's. Program head unit to only play G-Funk. Now ya know.
for a dream car audio system. What I would love to have is a setup similar to the Cars movie DJ character. I would have this as a show car mostly. I would go for around 6-8 12s and maybe 2 18s. would want around 2 component per door (probably 6in). I also would be running some lighting to match the music or for mood. lastly I would go for a custom head unit (self made with specific computers). for mounting amps and boxes I would go for acrylic enclosures for hardware and amps then a very acoustic wood (real, not MDF style).
I have a question about your wiring diagram, there is one wire missing. The remote control wire from the amps to the head unit, I know this holds a small amount of power. Now when connecting 2-3 amplifiers a system how would I splice/ distribute this properly? would I need to add a small capacitor in the system then split from there? or just wire them together before the head unit? and help would be appreciated. I have done about 10 installs over about 15 years, on personal vehicles of all sorts and I have found your videos rather informative and touch on some of the things most people over look, Thanks for them and keep up the good work.
For my dream build in my Ram, HU: Alpine Halo11 iLX-F411 Speakers: JL Audio. Speakers: C7 for the 3.5 on the dash, in the sail panel the C7 1” tweeters. Doors: C7 6.5 in the front doors. Amps and subs unknown at this point. Although I do like the stealth box for my Ram from JL audio.
Listen buddy, I’m an electrical engineer. What’s wrong with sine waves!? Jokes aside, this really helped me. I have 2014 Subaru Legacy and not a lot of guidance so I probably don’t need to replace my alternator maybe just upgrade my wires for 600 watts (4 channels 75 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms and 300 Watts RMS @ 1 or 2 Ohms)
So, I own a semi truck. Currently have a 12" L7. The build is 3 L7s and 8, 6.5inch ds18. Running with rockville dbcomp5 and 2 db45s with a audiocontrol dm-810. That's if I don't change my mind again lol
I have a 2020 silverado 1500 crew cab, I just drilled through the floor and put my ground to the chassis. I wire brushed it until the chassis was silver then i attached my ground. I hope this is good to go lol seems to be fine so far
dream system? so many choices. morel/audison/blam/dynaudio comps, audiofrog/genesis/audio control amps - there's just so much solid equipment these days. r/n i have Morel 3 ways, ct sounds mid for rear fill (budget) and alpine power logic 5-ch amp running a JL TW3 system above isn't my daily and everything was about $2K total including sound deadener etc, but if i were to get a newer ride i'd go big. i'm talking like $6-7K budget..
Dream System: Mechman 370, XSPower batteries, Morel Supremo 602, Raven 12XL subs, Mosconi DSP 8to12 Aerospace with 2 LC4.800s and 2 LC1.1500s........ oh wait... that is my current system lol! the only thing im changing in future is to Mosconi Pro amps.
Dream system in my ‘21 Ram 1500would be a pair of Mosconi 5/30 amps running a three way front stage 3 way set of audio frog gb series maybe gs8’s in the doors with gb 4’s and gb 10’s in a custom pillar. Rear fill as just some coaxial audiofrog gs 6x9 ’s. Pair of jl12w3’s in a sealed box powered from the sub section of the 5/30 amps. Sound deadening installed professionally because I have 0 skill in that category but would probably cost as much as the rest of the system if not more. Keep up the good work!
I have the same knuconcepts dist blocks. My dsp is wired to those blocks, using the side connections. My gripe is that the clear cover no longer fits. I have to trim that cover to fit.
Just keep in mind anytime you step down in wire size you need to make sure the fuse is properly sized to protect that wire. Learn more about that here: ua-cam.com/video/0H005TcKHKo/v-deo.html
Dream system, huh? Probably the one I just contacted you about an enclosure for. Kinda taking my inspiration from the PPI art Chevy Astro demo van with a lot of weird little touches 3 way stereo integrity front stage, active on a PPI Art Series ax606.2 and an a600.2 2 custom Stereo Integrity HST18Mk3's on a Sundown Salt6 Rear midbass fill on a PPI Art a600 JVC El-Kameleon Head Unit Minidisc Player as a conversation piece A roof mount for a large projector to run video through. Portable drive in theater anyone? a vintage vcr and tv combo with a super nintendo in the back seat Helix DSP Limitless Lithium Cyber12k Mechmann Dual Alt (this is gonna be fun to figure out they don't make dual alt brackets for my car) and OF COURSE I gotta go with that Neon Green Kandy Kable from Knu. 2 runs of 0ga and the big3.
I wish I could put pics here. I have a full NVX system, with a Pioneer head unit, just waiting to be installed in my 2000 Impala. Tweets and 6.5's for the front doors. 6x9's for the rear deck. 2 - 12's and a ported box. An epicenter. A 1 farad capacitor. Sound deadening material. All the wiring. I even have a license plate frame back-up camera. The only thing I really question is the sub box. I would prefer that it was built specifically for the subs, instead of bought off the internet. Lol. But since I got everything Pala seems to stay "out of order". So I'm guessing it's time for a new car. But, other than the deck (Pioneer), and the Epicenter (Audio Control), it'll be a full NVX build. Including the wiring.
You are a huge resource for car audio and thank you for providing all this knowledge. Can you please go over the wiring for the smaller fuse distribution box that goes into the DSP? Also, I'm doing a high end build for my Audi RS4 B7 and could use your consultation.
Would a similar setup like this work with 3 sets of tweeters and mids and two 12s, no need to be specific but would amps like these be able to efficiently run three sets
Very informative I’m leaning toward a dsp but still getting information I only have a 4 channel and 2 channel and epicenter now but still gathering information on digital sound processor.Maryland showing a little ❤️
im only installing an aftermarket stereo an equalizer and one amp im using block distributor for my 12v lines but my question is can i chain the same remote on cable? from the stereo-EQ-amp ?
Hello bro always watch your videos.. Really great.. Can you help me to clarify if it's good to distribute sound(rca?) from one amplifier to another,of its better to distribute directly from head unit and splitting the rca's Thank you
Been watching a lot of your info , Thanks so much for all the fantastic information and ideas. you are my first ever subscription . how can i search your existing videos to see if you have already talked about a topic in the past. you have some fantastic sponsors that im building a big order list for my project. the question im looking for advice on is : should i buy a dedicated lithium ion battery to install back by the amps and a capacitor ? what would be a good match and brand to support a JL 1200 slash sub amp and a VX800/8I amp thanks in advance for any advice you can give
My dream system: I will not be picky with the source, anything that runs smooth, has touchscreen, apple carplay and rca's out. For the mids/high s I would want to integrate some deaf bonce sylvester/arnolds in the already existing door locations (I know a lot of SQ guys are here but i prefer high efficiency) Any good horn tweeter that complements the mids would do. Amplifing them i would love at least 150w/channel, but i would rarely use it over 50w. For the bass part i would go with one 15' ore two 12's, just because i still need some trunk space for other things. My prefference for the subs would be Pride neo , just because they are extremely powerful and don't weigh that much. I would like a 5k amp for the bass but use less than half, just in case i will need it in some ocasions. For the dsp I would go with Hertz
I agree you wouldn't be playing at max power all the time but when you do you are probably going to have the dimming headlights. Most decent amps nowadays actually put out a substantial amount more power than they are rated, watch any Amp test on a Amp dyno. Then you have to consider how much of that power the vehicle itself needs to operate, some of these newer vehicles are power hungry as hell. How would you go about measuring that aspect to see how much extra power the alternator is putting out?
Second battery on stock alternator is not a good idea. If your drawing enough for 2 batteries, that alternator will exhaust itself trying to charge 2. Not enough balls.
good stuff! im happy with my setup... Alpine 9887, 6.5" Oz Elites, 12" RE SE, Fosgate 500x1. Dream setup, McIntosh deck and amps, W7, and Dynaudio Esotec comps
I so needed this. Ty again 😃. I've watched about everyone. Always look forward to the next class. 2015 beetle. Have to have one made for my car. 140amp alternator. Low option car. I had to get a second battery. Now I'm good. About 2300 watts. I would love to have my car sound as fine as an old Big Block rumbling. I like SQ over SPL, but I do like it loud. But clean, crisp and tight. So I think that is called SQL? Nice and clean install that is more for practical daily driver than show. Hideaway as much as possible. Sound stage that's better than live. Not concerned about system wattage being 40k watts or 100 watts. I just want my ears say its heavenly. But if my Guy, you, doesn't do it. I'll have to think about it.
I have enough 0 awg wire for sending power to an HDA M80 Alpine and a HDP D90 DSP Alpine Amps. Can I use the same 0 awg wire for the Blue Sea fuse box? Will that be too much?
My dreah audio sustem is 4 skar evl 12s on a 5k with 8 6.5 ds18 door speakers and 8 1 inch.ds18 tweeters. On two kicker 360.4. a 190 ah northstar battery with a js 320 alternator.
Question when figuring out speaker size cable i have focal splits for the fronts im putiĺng in and i already have 16 g cable they are 240w total or 120w rms will 16 gage be ok or do i need to buy some 12 gage cable? Cable runs from crossovers will be 4.5 meters for one side and 7.5 meters on the other
Could you help me design and figure out what I need for my amps. Am using 2 Skar amps, a 5 Chanel 700 and a 350 mono. Am putting in second identical battery. Do I need a compactor or bigger alt???
Really looking forward to seeing how this system comes together, specifically how and where you mount the amps and crossovers. I have a 2020 F-150 crew cab. I haven't done anything with the audio yet, but I'll likely take a lot of "inspiration" from your build, just to a milder extent. I have a pair of JL 8W1s and a 250 watt JL amp from a previous vehicle that I plan to re-use, and I'll probably go with the JL C2 speakers rather than the C3. Still unsure what amp I want to use for those. I'm also going to keep the factory radio, so I'll probably be looking at an LCi7 to go with all of this.
My dream system is pretty much this system you are building in this series but I would want to use at minimum JL audio W6 woofers, or W7 in real fantasy audio system with matching amps of course
Hi Mark! Greetings! I'm planning to install a dual amp setup in my Nissan Pathfinder R51. I've bought the Alpine iLX 702D as the HU and Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 and R2-500X4, speakers from the same vendor. I'm a bit confused as to where to mount the amps. I do not wish to lose the 3rd row seats while the remaining seats seem to have a low space from the floor (~ 1 inch). Please suggest.
Hello, love all of your videos. Just had a question. I will be running a zapco 150.6 lx amp to my 3 way active front stage and then two 2 channel api amps both bridged for one audifrog subwoofer each. I will either be using my jl twk 88 dsp or if that wont work i will get a dsp that will work for this.My question is what do i need to do with the subwoofer rca’s because i am using two separate amps for subs? Do i need to do some kind of y connector or…? Thanks in advance
I already have 2x18" ground zero plutonium , 4x12" ground zero midbass , 8x8" mids , 4 horns tweeters , and i'm missing my amps withch i would like to be a 12k for bass , and some 1.5k for midbass/mids , and a 4x100 for tweeters.
My dream audio setup. A custom head unit I am designing with 6 channel output -> DSP with at least 8 channel output, but 11/12 preferred -> 3 way fronts, 2 way rears, dual subs. Going for a sound quality build for long road trips so this would also involve sound proofing the entire car. I have most of this setup already, just need to get the DSP and finish my head unit.
Really appreciate the video, and thanks for revisiting / updating this kind of content. Been watching you on and off for years and it really helps!
Please put a video together or document the head unit build. Id love to see your ideas
Yes man, make a video and post it!😄We are interested!
I also agree with the other two comments here so far. Sounds like you’re on your way to UA-cam fame bud
agreed as well , would love to see how it comes out?
I went with an android tablet "head unit" with USB-C connection to a Behringer DAC with TOSLINK connection to DSP. Straight through digital signal to the DSP. The sound quality is very impressive. I did this 5 years ago now so I would say better options exist but eliminating analog to digital conversions along the chain seem to be more easily achievable these days.
As I get older I'm finding myself wanting more crisp clear quality sounds 👌...but I still like to crank it up too...
I'm with you 100 percent on that 😎
Man I'm 43 and still a basshead. I'm so stuck lately because my midbsss is lacking (Infinity 6.5 comp set x 2). I'd LOVE to have like 4 8"s, 2 10"s, and then my 2 18"s on a switch in my console so I could turn the 18s off when I want to listen to something that SHOULD be listened to in a sealed box, hence the 8s and 10s.
I like it clear but I crank it because I’m old and deaf. Lol.
Mannnn fr im 26 and got rid of my subs and just started redoing my system with mods and highs my god 😊
Dream system with no restrictions and no budget....That's easy.......... Have you pick everything and install it in my car for me.....:)
I've had every speaker size in my vehicle back in the day, except an 18. But now im a disabled Army Vet with 2 teenage daughters, I can't afford to buy a good stereo anymore. But my dream is to one day FINALLY have 1 18" sub with a good amp and show my girls how I used to roll. But I guess thats why they call it a dream. But keep making these great videos. Love the way you breakdown the more technical parts of car audio. Be safe and blessed brother. And have a great Memorial weekend.
Just recently finished my stereo build in my 2013 F150 SuperCrew. Hertz Mille Pro 163.3 3-way component system up front in custom pillars. Hertz Mille Pro 6.5 coaxial in the rear doors. For subs, I used 4 JL Audio 10TW3 D-4 under the rear seat. Front and rear are powered by JL Audio HD600/4 and the subs are powered by JL Audio HD 1200/1. Amps tuned to proper gain voltage and time alignment for all speakers. Entire cab of the truck, including the actual door panels, was covered in Sound Skins Pro sound deadening. Couldn't be happier with the outcome.
I am presently building my dream system in my dream truck, 2018 Raptor. System consists of Knukoncepts power, signal, speaker wiring, and fuse/distribution.
Source:
factory head unit using NAVTV A2B adapter
Amps:
JL Audio XD800/8 & 1000/1
Speakers:
1pair-Hertz Mille Legend 280 tweeters in a-pillars
2pairs-Hz Pro165.3, one pair in front and rear doors with complete sound deadening
Subs:
2-Sundown Audio SD4 12d4 in custom enclosure led lit with 3 logos, down firing, enclosure under rear seat by SoundsGood stereo.
All speaker brackets laser cut by SoundsGood stereo.
DSPs:
Micro Epicenter (when available)
MiniDSP C-DSP 8x12 DL
Can’t wait to get it all installed and EQ’d. Doing all the work myself because I used to do this for a living… great job on explaining everything to the masses in all your videos.
I've been subscribed for several years and I'm reviewing these videos again because I am working on upgrading the sound in my car. You have fantastic information and provide an invaluable service to us!
The only things I might add to this video's great information:
1) The wire from the battery to the distribution block does not show any kind of fuse or circuit breaker for protection at the battery, but I know that you would do that.
2) The additional load of the DSP that the main wire has to carry. It may be only 5 or 10 amps, but it has to be considered, so the main wire will be carrying 161 or 166 amps.
I didn't notice, but you're right. anyway, with such a good power wire between battery and distribution block there's nothing wrong with adding a fuse with more capacity than needed, like 175A, or maybe even 200A
my car has 180A stock alternator, I got a 35mm2 (2 gauge?) power wire with a 175A fuse next to the battery. my amps should in theory max out at about 93A with my setup atm. sub is 2x350W, doors are 4x75W, but I added 5W to each door because of passive crossovers, just for the theorethical max. engine idles at 13,8V, voltage drop thru the cables are just 0,04V (with chassis as ground, tnx VW for making good cars that are horrible to work on because of tight spacing)
One of the most educating videos on YT! Thank you brother!
For my dream system (assuming this is for my current car/build): JY Lithium and GP 320a alternator, Focal K Series Elite for the front components and rear coaxial, RF T1000AD for mids/high power. Knuconcepts lime colored 4/0 wiring, b2 Falcon or Osprey powering 2 Sundown Zv6 12s in a customized 6cuft trunk wall (because it'll have to be a pentagon shape to reach that volume in my Elantra's trunk). I'll keep my Pioneer 2660NEX or upgrade to the newer version of that line as I'm pretty happy with it.
Mark: you have nearly single-handedly taught me everything I needed to know when starting out in car audio. Your videos taught me everything from how to run wire to understanding the construction of a solid box and how to read T/S parameters. Whenever someone asks me how I learned so much so quickly I point them towards you. Thank you for all of the knowledge and knowing how to teach.
That second fuse box is great for future additions like camera and radars .
My dream car audio system is what im currently working on just need a different DSP and a D-1200 with my current Lc-400 and LC-800 Morels are already done, need a complete sound treatment for a 2011 Dodge Durango. My power and ground are KnuKoncepts 0 gauge with 4 gauge at the distros
I bet those Morels sound amazing. I always get Rockford speakers but will probably splurge next time on Morel.
@@gjenkins1660 I discovered how great they sounded when I added power to them and I mean 160 watts rms........I was sold at that point and i have had alot of speakers since, I had the original MB Quartz back in the early 90's so my listening ear is a little bougie LOL
Dream audio system: 3 way c7 components in the front and 2 way c7 components in the rear, 2 12w7ae subwoofers all powered at full capacity with as much sound insulation as will fit in the vehicle
That’s what I’m trying to do! But I have no idea what amp to use for all the components
So for my Dream System:
Source: I'm not super picky here. As long as it's a quality MFG and fits well in the vehicle then I'm mainly concerned with features. Android Auto is a Must. But then so is a CD/DVD Player. Most streaming music is lower quality than CDs. Trying to get max system quality while using low grade streamed music is pointless. No amount of acoustical treatment and DSP will ever increase the quality of the source signal. Yes there's services like Tidal, and they are getting better. But I still like OWNING my music. If I purchase albums and/or videos (Inc movies) from a streaming service and that company goes out of business later on then I no longer "own" that material. And YES I'm old, but I'm also not wrong 😛. LOL
SPEAKERS: Subs: JL Audio, Only and Always. Either 10/12 W6(s) or 13.5TW5 if tight spacing is an issue. The W7s are amazing, but their also designed more for SPL (but with strong SQL remaining) while the W6 is more max SQL and achieving the most SPL within that standard.
Mids/Highs: The best I've ever owned go way way back, the a/d/s 325is which were legendary SQL in their time. I still own my set. And while I look forward to hearing them again I doubt they still sound as good having been boxed and unused for years. I haven't listened to them yet but looking around I think the Morel's are the type of sound I look for given their construction and materiel choices. Today I would go with a 3-way system up front with powerful 6.5s in the doors and the 3.5s & 1in Tweeters (no smaller) ideally in A-pillar pods. Each individually processed and amplified with its own channel. Then I would have a pair of either 6.5 or 6x9 co-axials in the back. Again, ideally on the back panel firing into the back window rather than low in the doors. These would be Bandpassed roughly from 300 to roughly 2.5 kHz. That would be based on listening, I only want it functioning as backfill simulating the reverberance of a larger listening space while not interfering with the sound stage of the front.
Processor: I've looked at specs and read reviews of a bunch of DSPs lately. I'd start naming a bunch but I'm taking a bit too long on this. So I'll just say given the budget I'd go with the Helix systems.
Amps: Probably JL Audio but I'd be open to other possibilities. The idea of going A/B for the Front/Rears and D on the Sub's is honestly appealing to me though. So I could be swayed elsewhere so long as the quality was top notch.
High end Focal system well placed speakers no large custom door panels with multiple woofers. A few decent subwoofers, could be Focal or Sundown. Stinger dash. Excellent sound deadening for a foundation.
My Dream System: semi-SQ Build in 08 Yaris 2dr RS. Sound Deadening through out as needed: Noico 80mil, Wiring/Distribution: Stinger, Head Unit: Kenwood DNX997XR, Into DSP: Audio Control DM-810, Front Stage Speakers: JL Audio C3-650 in coax config with Stinger fast rings, Rear Stage Speakers: None, plan to keep all speakers facing driver, Subwoofer: 1 - 10" JL Audio 10W6v3D4 in sealed custom fibreglass/mdf enclosure using the Spare Tire Well space, Amplification: Front Stage 1 JL-Audio XD200/2v2, Subwoofer:XD600/1v2. That would be about it! Enough to rock my daily driver... i think so. Cheers Rob
5 sets of jl c7s vx400s 4 vx1000/1 on 4 13w7s in a blow thru superduty crew cab 8 foot bed 🤘🏽
1set of c7s is 2k
Dream setup ? For a 3rd gen Jimny used offroad : Alpine Halo head unit, 2*3-way component system in front (6.5"+4"+tweeter) with custom door pod, 2*4" coaxial in back, 12 inch sub in a ported box, preferably all speakers with some water resistant rating just in case. Everything powered by MVi amps from JL Audio and linked to an onboard PC you can access from the head unit (HDMI input) for configuration. Add a secondary source accessible from outside the car and some quick disconnect watersport 2*8" pod speakers (powered by the same MVi amps) for when you're chilling with the bois and don't want to unleash the 2000W+ beast with no alternator running. And of course a bigger alternator cause the stock one won't do
My Dream?
For my "14" Srx, is replace all the Bose with a Focal (Flax) 3-way running active, custom install front stage, to include the rear doors and trunk with Focal Flax full range speakers, Flax 12's for lows, custom spare tire build, along with custom amp racks, to keep it useable and stealthy. Audio Control products would run everything for me.
Video was very helpful. Looking forward to watching more
I'm working on a "dream system" in my jeep. Currently running 2 10s and 2 12s in the back each on a mono amp. Then I have 2 4ch amps running ds18 dash components and horns. Adding in 4 8in mids 2 tweeters and 2 horns in a custom sound bar.
I'm currently building my dream system. All JL Audio because I fell in love with the VXi series off amps the moment I saw them. Im going to be running an active three way with the C7 and the C3 components for the rear doors running off the VX800/8i and then two W7 12s running off a VX1000/1i each in a custom built box. Going to have the Sony XAV9500ES as a head unit. All going into my 06 Ram 2500 diesel. Going to be a good spring project.
Dream system...
JL Audio C7 3 way component system in the front, JL audio C7 2 way component in the back, 2 13TW5 subs in a sealed box, VXi 600/6 amp for the front, VXi 400/4 for the back, HD 1200/1 amp for the subs.
2 dedicated batteries for the system and a pair of cond3nsors from stinger.
All conected to a stinger HEIGH 10 head unit
Update
I'm finally geting into building a system for my mini van, I am actually gonna use a 3 way in front and a 2 way in the back (although a coaxial). I'm using Focal Access right now as my speakers, so I'm using the 3 way access set and the Access 6x9 coaxial in the back. Then, I'm gonna use a small DB srive euphoria 4 channel amp 75x4 watts rms and I will add an active subwoofer, probably one from Cerwin vega or DB Drive.
I also have a very nice project for an Express Van. Not defined yet, but I would like to have a JL Audio C3 component in the front, the C2 6x9 coaxials on the OEM location (low inside the back doors) and a set of C2 4 inch coaxials on the last OEM location (in ceiling of the very back). For the sub, a 2 subwoofer setup under the front seats (1 sealed box below each front seat). All powered by a 4 channel RD amp for the front speakers, an RD series Sub amp for the subs and a JD series 4 channel for the back speakers.
Finally I have a dream build for a WV bug using a 3 way C7 component in the front and a C3 5x7" coaxial setup in the back, complimented by a pair of TW3's.
For now, I will see how my system performs with the inexpensive 3 way + 6x9 coaxial setup and a shallow active subwoofer. I hope it performs okay.
BTW, whoever is planning to use a C7 3 way, think about the Focal access 3 way to replace those nice components once you decide to sell the vehicle. It costs like 1/10th or less
Honestly a recreation of a former system I competed with would be my dream system. Was also last system my mom heard in a rig of mine before she passed. Three way cdt audio system up front, 225 hcca bridged running each side passive, 250 hcca running 8 Orion xtr 8 inch subs in a wall. Linear power x02 crossover and audio control eql. That was a fun system.
Man they don't make amps like the Redline anymore. Orion subs and amps were amazing before they sold to Hott Setup. Pro Tip, if they sell it at Best Buy is probably low/ midgrade.
R.I.P. Orion HCCA, Phoenix Gold, and PPI
My dream system has 8 tweeters, 6 mid range drivers, 4 woofers, 4 full range drivers, 4 8inch subwoofers, and 2 14inch subwoofers. A grand total of 28 speakers across 28 channels. 8,000 watts of pure and perfect audio bliss. $30,000 in equipment.
With all due respect do whatever you like but i want to understand the purpose of it. Even the music ain't made for 28 speakers and is it even gonna be any different?
My dream build would be full blown build like JP’s Tahoe. Thank you for all the content!
My current dream with no budget in mind would be for my quad cab... Kenwood DNR1008RVS head unit, two 10" Infinity Kappa sealed, 3 way Component Infinity Kappa Actively controlled front, 2 way component infinity Kappa rear(I'd settle passive), 6 channel amplifier front, 4 channel rear amplifier and 2 channel rear Sub amplifier, 12 Channel DSP, and Good thorough Sound deadening of the body. I don't want loud obnoxious bass, I want clear clean when quiet up to full control range. Don't have any idea which specific amps I want I haven't shopped for amps in forever so the stuff I used to look at don't exist anymore, Don't know of any 12 channel DSP that are good.
My dream system. Here goes... Kenwood head unit, Arc audio blackbird amp, Mosconi Pro 4/30 amp, MOREL MAXIMO ULTRA 603 MKII 6.5" 3-WAY COMPONENT SPEAKERS , Helix mini dsp, Bobby Gately Box w/ 3 JL W7s
One thing I would have like to hear was the remote wire ? That’s a lot of remote connections! Is a relay involved with this many connections?!
Great channel and good work!
You asked about our no holes barred build?
Here's mine:
I own a 2008 Ram 3500 Quad Cab Dually with some existing JL component speakers.
1 pair 4" Z series components in the dash.
3 JL tweets across the dash also, one as a "center" channel.
1 pair of 6.5 components in the front doors.
1 pair of 5.25's in the rear doors.
All powered by a HD400.4 amp that's toasted.
For bass, I was running a single JL 13v3 4ohm in a fiberglass and wood tube I made.
1 JL HD600.1 powered that sub and it too toasted.
My factory alternator over volted and I believe that was the cause of the amplifier failure.
I've since upgraded my amp to a 420A unit.
Anyways,
I want to upgrade all my component speakers and amps to the highest JL lines.
I want to make a fiberglass rear seat back wall with the older 13TW5 subs. I may be able to use 3-5 on that wall.
I had built a fiberglass spare tire well box for a 2014 Mazda 2 with the 13TW5 about 10 years ago and I really enjoyed it in that car.
You are basically building my dream system in your F150. I have a 2020 Ram 1500 and all the same speakers are on my crutchfield wish list. I love the JL C6’s. Though I am looking at the vehicle specific JL under seat dual 10 preloaded box. Since I don’t the experience or know how or tools to build my own custom box at this point. Prices are just a bit out of control pushing it out of my budget. Crutchfield also states to keep my factory head unit and offers no replacement options.
Great video, would like to hear your thoughts on ways to tackle rear fill through a DSP. From my research there’s definitely some different schools of thought on this!
My dream System would be for a 2015 Volkswagen Golf. I would get 2 tweeters for the corners of the dash, 4 speakers behind the door panels, 5 underseat Subwoofers. 2 under the front seats and 3 under the backseats. On the backing of the seats I would mount 3 high quality amps and the rest required in high quality
@CarAudioFabrication, Hey Mark, Dream audio system: First gen Chevy S-10 lowrider standard cab with pass through to a carpeted and tonneau covered bed, LS swap and built automatic trans of course, Sparco seats, custom console , Alpine head unit, Audio Control crossover/dsp with rta, fully active three way mids and highs setup using either Dynaudio or Focal tweeters, 3 inch mids, and 8 inch midbass drivers, all Rockford Fosgate power series amplification, three subs in ported box, JL Audio or Sundown, 12's or 13.5's, or maybe 15's. Program head unit to only play G-Funk. Now ya know.
Will there be problems if you use 10 gauge wiring for your door speakers?
Do you have a video how to run the remote wire thanks for the video help alot
for a dream car audio system. What I would love to have is a setup similar to the Cars movie DJ character. I would have this as a show car mostly.
I would go for around 6-8 12s and maybe 2 18s. would want around 2 component per door (probably 6in). I also would be running some lighting to match the music or for mood. lastly I would go for a custom head unit (self made with specific computers). for mounting amps and boxes I would go for acrylic enclosures for hardware and amps then a very acoustic wood (real, not MDF style).
This dude is awesome I like him because he cares
Great stuff! I like the sound of a great song, I like the bass as much I like the tweeter, hip hop to banda.
I'm so glad I found these vids‼️Thanks for making them
I have a question about your wiring diagram, there is one wire missing. The remote control wire from the amps to the head unit, I know this holds a small amount of power. Now when connecting 2-3 amplifiers a system how would I splice/ distribute this properly? would I need to add a small capacitor in the system then split from there? or just wire them together before the head unit? and help would be appreciated. I have done about 10 installs over about 15 years, on personal vehicles of all sorts and I have found your videos rather informative and touch on some of the things most people over look, Thanks for them and keep up the good work.
For my dream build in my Ram,
HU: Alpine Halo11 iLX-F411
Speakers: JL Audio.
Speakers: C7 for the 3.5 on the dash,
in the sail panel the C7 1” tweeters.
Doors: C7 6.5 in the front doors.
Amps and subs unknown at this point. Although I do like the stealth box for my Ram from JL audio.
Listen buddy, I’m an electrical engineer. What’s wrong with sine waves!?
Jokes aside, this really helped me. I have 2014 Subaru Legacy and not a lot of guidance so I probably don’t need to replace my alternator maybe just upgrade my wires for 600 watts (4 channels 75 Watts RMS @ 4 Ohms and 300 Watts RMS @ 1 or 2 Ohms)
So, I own a semi truck. Currently have a 12" L7. The build is 3 L7s and 8, 6.5inch ds18. Running with rockville dbcomp5 and 2 db45s with a audiocontrol dm-810. That's if I don't change my mind again lol
I have a 2020 silverado 1500 crew cab, I just drilled through the floor and put my ground to the chassis. I wire brushed it until the chassis was silver then i attached my ground. I hope this is good to go lol seems to be fine so far
dream system?
so many choices. morel/audison/blam/dynaudio comps, audiofrog/genesis/audio control amps - there's just so much solid equipment these days.
r/n i have Morel 3 ways, ct sounds mid for rear fill (budget) and alpine power logic 5-ch amp running a JL TW3
system above isn't my daily and everything was about $2K total including sound deadener etc, but if i were to get a newer ride i'd go big. i'm talking like $6-7K budget..
also a recommendation the altinator out put is different at idle as opposed to driving if it's 250amp alt find out what it is at idle vise vera
Where can I find the ground fuse links for the ground distribution that you use???? Need a bag full!
Dream System: Mechman 370, XSPower batteries, Morel Supremo 602, Raven 12XL subs, Mosconi DSP 8to12 Aerospace with 2 LC4.800s and 2 LC1.1500s........ oh wait... that is my current system lol! the only thing im changing in future is to Mosconi Pro amps.
Hi Jerome again am using JL audio Subwoofers 8W7AE-38"W7 series
Dream system in my ‘21 Ram 1500would be a pair of Mosconi 5/30 amps running a three way front stage 3 way set of audio frog gb series maybe gs8’s in the doors with gb 4’s and gb 10’s in a custom pillar. Rear fill as just some coaxial audiofrog gs 6x9 ’s. Pair of jl12w3’s in a sealed box powered from the sub section of the 5/30 amps. Sound deadening installed professionally because I have 0 skill in that category but would probably cost as much as the rest of the system if not more. Keep up the good work!
Hi Mark, So I'm wondering why you decided to run two (2) a 2 channel amps instead of a single 4 channel amp for the front and rear speakers?
Matrix x-spdif2, brax DSP with matching amps, speakers depending on locations but probably legatia X 3-way, and a 13w7ae.
Hey Mark, really enjoy your channel! Great info, great explaining. Keep it up.
I've used this video to plan my new 3 amp + dsp build :)
Which crossovers setting (HP, Full, LP) is best for Component Speakers w Passive Crossovers and why?
Exact info I was looking for. You are the man Mark!
Thanks Mark! Great rundown of a complex install. I wanted to ask - I think the diagram is missing a fuse on the positive connection from the battery?
I have the same knuconcepts dist blocks. My dsp is wired to those blocks, using the side connections. My gripe is that the clear cover no longer fits. I have to trim that cover to fit.
Just keep in mind anytime you step down in wire size you need to make sure the fuse is properly sized to protect that wire. Learn more about that here: ua-cam.com/video/0H005TcKHKo/v-deo.html
@@CarAudioFabrication Oh yea, dsp maker says 2 amp fuse is fine. I have one inline.
Diagram time! Another great car audio vid, Mark.
Dream system, huh? Probably the one I just contacted you about an enclosure for. Kinda taking my inspiration from the PPI art Chevy Astro demo van with a lot of weird little touches
3 way stereo integrity front stage, active on a PPI Art Series ax606.2 and an a600.2
2 custom Stereo Integrity HST18Mk3's on a Sundown Salt6
Rear midbass fill on a PPI Art a600
JVC El-Kameleon Head Unit
Minidisc Player as a conversation piece
A roof mount for a large projector to run video through. Portable drive in theater anyone?
a vintage vcr and tv combo with a super nintendo in the back seat
Helix DSP
Limitless Lithium Cyber12k
Mechmann Dual Alt (this is gonna be fun to figure out they don't make dual alt brackets for my car)
and OF COURSE I gotta go with that Neon Green Kandy Kable from Knu. 2 runs of 0ga and the big3.
So after watching this and a later vid, did you drop the run to the battery for the ground after all?
What can you do with this system to add the center channel in the dash?
I wish I could put pics here. I have a full NVX system, with a Pioneer head unit, just waiting to be installed in my 2000 Impala. Tweets and 6.5's for the front doors. 6x9's for the rear deck. 2 - 12's and a ported box. An epicenter. A 1 farad capacitor. Sound deadening material. All the wiring. I even have a license plate frame back-up camera. The only thing I really question is the sub box. I would prefer that it was built specifically for the subs, instead of bought off the internet. Lol. But since I got everything Pala seems to stay "out of order". So I'm guessing it's time for a new car.
But, other than the deck (Pioneer), and the Epicenter (Audio Control), it'll be a full NVX build. Including the wiring.
For tweetr mid n sub setting,i have use 31 bnd dsp
You are a huge resource for car audio and thank you for providing all this knowledge. Can you please go over the wiring for the smaller fuse distribution box that goes into the DSP? Also, I'm doing a high end build for my Audi RS4 B7 and could use your consultation.
Would a similar setup like this work with 3 sets of tweeters and mids and two 12s, no need to be specific but would amps like these be able to efficiently run three sets
Why not use a 8ch for the coax?
Very informative I’m leaning toward a dsp but still getting information I only have a 4 channel and 2 channel and epicenter now but still gathering information on digital sound processor.Maryland showing a little ❤️
im only installing an aftermarket stereo an equalizer and one amp im using block distributor for my 12v lines but my question is can i chain the same remote on cable? from the stereo-EQ-amp ?
Hello bro always watch your videos.. Really great..
Can you help me to clarify if it's good to distribute sound(rca?) from one amplifier to another,of its better to distribute directly from head unit and splitting the rca's Thank you
Been watching a lot of your info , Thanks so much for all the fantastic information and ideas. you are my first ever subscription . how can i search your existing videos to see if you have already talked about a topic in the past. you have some fantastic sponsors that im building a big order list for my project. the question im looking for advice on is : should i buy a dedicated lithium ion battery to install back by the amps and a capacitor ? what would be a good match and brand to support a JL 1200 slash sub amp and a VX800/8I amp thanks in advance for any advice you can give
Great video Mark. Keep them coming.
A regular fuse would work for ground as well?
I have a question. So could I do this setup using my stock headunit?
My dream system:
I will not be picky with the source, anything that runs smooth, has touchscreen, apple carplay and rca's out.
For the mids/high s I would want to integrate some deaf bonce sylvester/arnolds in the already existing door locations (I know a lot of SQ guys are here but i prefer high efficiency)
Any good horn tweeter that complements the mids would do.
Amplifing them i would love at least 150w/channel, but i would rarely use it over 50w.
For the bass part i would go with one 15' ore two 12's, just because i still need some trunk space for other things. My prefference for the subs would be Pride neo , just because they are extremely powerful and don't weigh that much.
I would like a 5k amp for the bass but use less than half, just in case i will need it in some ocasions.
For the dsp I would go with Hertz
I agree you wouldn't be playing at max power all the time but when you do you are probably going to have the dimming headlights. Most decent amps nowadays actually put out a substantial amount more power than they are rated, watch any Amp test on a Amp dyno. Then you have to consider how much of that power the vehicle itself needs to operate, some of these newer vehicles are power hungry as hell. How would you go about measuring that aspect to see how much extra power the alternator is putting out?
excellent video, learned tons
I have a question, does the math change if your running a second battery still on a stock alternator?
Second battery on stock alternator is not a good idea.
If your drawing enough for 2 batteries, that alternator will exhaust itself trying to charge 2. Not enough balls.
When calculating rms watt is that the at the lowest impedance I.e 2 ohms or what my speakers are 4 ohms ?
this setup is enough, exelent info.
My dream setup ? That would be a real challenge. Maybe even impossible.
good stuff! im happy with my setup... Alpine 9887, 6.5" Oz Elites, 12" RE SE, Fosgate 500x1. Dream setup, McIntosh deck and amps, W7, and Dynaudio Esotec comps
Can you do a video if someone is looking into doing a stunt wall?
I so needed this. Ty again 😃. I've watched about everyone. Always look forward to the next class. 2015 beetle. Have to have one made for my car. 140amp alternator. Low option car. I had to get a second battery. Now I'm good. About 2300 watts. I would love to have my car sound as fine as an old Big Block rumbling. I like SQ over SPL, but I do like it loud. But clean, crisp and tight. So I think that is called SQL? Nice and clean install that is more for practical daily driver than show. Hideaway as much as possible. Sound stage that's better than live. Not concerned about system wattage being 40k watts or 100 watts. I just want my ears say its heavenly. But if my Guy, you, doesn't do it. I'll have to think about it.
I’m 6th ordering 3 12s in a extended cab ranger rn didn’t know anything about abt subs really 6months ago but here I am😅
I have enough 0 awg wire for sending power to an HDA M80 Alpine and a HDP D90 DSP Alpine Amps. Can I use the same 0 awg wire for the Blue Sea fuse box? Will that be too much?
So I'm trying to build a motorcycle system with 10 speakers 2 subs and 3 amps. But no dsp . What would you do differently
My dreah audio sustem is 4 skar evl 12s on a 5k with 8 6.5 ds18 door speakers and 8 1 inch.ds18 tweeters. On two kicker 360.4. a 190 ah northstar battery with a js 320 alternator.
Question when figuring out speaker size cable i have focal splits for the fronts im putiĺng in and i already have 16 g cable they are 240w total or 120w rms will 16 gage be ok or do i need to buy some 12 gage cable? Cable runs from crossovers will be 4.5 meters for one side and 7.5 meters on the other
What power wires do I use for the dsp and I have an epicenter
Exactly described: down to its detail.
Could you help me design and figure out what I need for my amps. Am using 2 Skar amps, a 5 Chanel 700 and a 350 mono. Am putting in second identical battery. Do I need a compactor or bigger alt???
Really looking forward to seeing how this system comes together, specifically how and where you mount the amps and crossovers. I have a 2020 F-150 crew cab. I haven't done anything with the audio yet, but I'll likely take a lot of "inspiration" from your build, just to a milder extent. I have a pair of JL 8W1s and a 250 watt JL amp from a previous vehicle that I plan to re-use, and I'll probably go with the JL C2 speakers rather than the C3. Still unsure what amp I want to use for those. I'm also going to keep the factory radio, so I'll probably be looking at an LCi7 to go with all of this.
My dream system is pretty much this system you are building in this series but I would want to use at minimum JL audio W6 woofers, or W7 in real fantasy audio system with matching amps of course
Good Evening, I have a Harley Davidson and would like some help on wiring a new sound digital amps with Diamond audio speakers and subs.
do the amps have to be exactly the same ? could a 500 watt amp help a 2400 watt amp ??
Great video. Thank you
Hi Mark! Greetings! I'm planning to install a dual amp setup in my Nissan Pathfinder R51. I've bought the Alpine iLX 702D as the HU and Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1 and R2-500X4, speakers from the same vendor. I'm a bit confused as to where to mount the amps. I do not wish to lose the 3rd row seats while the remaining seats seem to have a low space from the floor (~ 1 inch). Please suggest.
Question if your on a budget does a lc7i do the same job as a dsp
Hello, love all of your videos. Just had a question. I will be running a zapco 150.6 lx amp to my 3 way active front stage and then two 2 channel api amps both bridged for one audifrog subwoofer each. I will either be using my jl twk 88 dsp or if that wont work i will get a dsp that will work for this.My question is what do i need to do with the subwoofer rca’s because i am using two separate amps for subs? Do i need to do some kind of y connector or…?
Thanks in advance
I already have 2x18" ground zero plutonium , 4x12" ground zero midbass , 8x8" mids , 4 horns tweeters , and i'm missing my amps withch i would like to be a 12k for bass , and some 1.5k for midbass/mids , and a 4x100 for tweeters.