No, I pulled the wire around counter clockwise but the J hook itself is going around the screw clockwise. Due to the design it has to be pulled that way in order for the hook to go around in a clockwise direction like it should be. Take another look.
Great video. I certainly did not know that a regular wall outlet had so many features. Really appreciate you taking the time to show these features so clearly. Keep up the great videos.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thank you very much for taking the time to let me know that. Seriously, I really do appreciate it Sonny.
I love the internet. So many home projects I’ve worked on in the past decades would have gone a lot better had your channel existed back then. Thanks. I learn so much from you.
Always learn something new on your channel! A lot of it feels like common sense, but that's just because my dad gave me a solid foundation in wiring when I was in middle school. Had no idea about the built-in wire strippers!
Great vid! What you said at 10:30-11:13 for me raises this question: Suppose on a commercial receptacle such as you show, you hook two black wires around the screws and up to four black wires pushed into the back-wiring holes behind the plates on the same side - would you then have up to 6 wires safely connected without any marrette or wago or crimp? Same question with white wires on the other side. And does code allow that method of wire connection? One more question - if the answer to the above are "yes," if you get a commercial grade receptacle rated for copper and aluminum, can you join the wires that way without needing a CO/AL rated marrette or wago or crimp? Thanks for your time.
Knew about all those and Robertson's but did not know about the other driver tips. And didn't keep the ears for spacers. Will now. Thanks. A push connector receptacle failed at our beach house, just as you described. Simple fix but a warning to redo all the others, too. Subscribed.
I learned 5 things!!! Thanks😃 I'm wondering though, to strip the wire using the gaps at the top of the outlet, if you insert the wire from the front, then make the trimmed end flush with the back face of the outlet, is that the correct strip length? It would be cool if that were true, or helpful if they'd make some stop on that side to indicate the correct length. I've used the frangible bridge to separate the two plugs for a switched receptacle but wish there were a good way to indicate which is full time power vs switched. I've painted the switched one and the wall switch red, but the paint wears off over time and looks terrible. I'd like factory finished paired switch and outlet sets to clearly and resiliently indicate which is which.
Torque specs are readily available too but good on you for saving some DIY people a lot of headaches or harm. I'm a Red Seal electrician and this is good advice for the cheapskates
Ideal brand screw drivers item number 35-204 is my go to for this kind of work. They call it a combination tip also. I would like one of these manufacturers make a #1 and #2 Combination bit in a 2" length.
I'm a union electrician, i had to change all the receptacles out in my sister's mostly new home. they wouldn't even clasp the u ground plug contacts, they would just fall out. it's an extreme fire hazard.
Thank you for the video. But one part of the topic no one ever addresses in any videos is the best way to hook up multiple switches or receptacle plugs in one box. With two or three light switches in one box or two to four plug receptacles such as a workbench might have in a shop, what's the best way to jumper connections between each light switch or receptacle plug? Do you recommend I just use a pig tail/wire nut with a wire going to each switch or receptacle plug, or put two wires under the first screw if it has one of those floating clamps, or one wire under each screw and not break the tab between the upper and lower receptacle connections, or just two wires under the first screw on each light switch? I prefer to use metal boxes and rigid metal conduit in my shop (a converted semi-truck box trailer) with ground connections going to everything. I also use 20 amp receptacles although I've never seen a device that needs such a plug, but for the shop I figure its better to have it and not need it than to get something that needs it and not have that configuration available. Your thoughts? Thank you.
I've done SO, SO MUCH diy electric and didn't know about removing the ears for old-work boxes. Now I have to go back and make sure my faceplates look okay. I know one switch that this may help for sure.
the most significant difference between duplex outlets from the various models and manufacturers are some 15 Amp. duplexes actually are made with 20 Amp. (so called T-slot) internal metal contacts. Both hot and neutral slots. You can't see them unless you shine a bright light into the parallel slots, but if you do eventually you'll find one made like that and more than anything else that's what you want. Because blade retention force and wiping action is superior on standard 15 Amp. plugs when inserted into T-slot type metal socket contacts
As a Canadian I use Robertsons only whenever doing electrical. They make it so much easier. One comment. You did not mention that the code, at least in Canada, requires in new construction the child proof receptacles that are an absolute pain to get the plugs into. What we tend to do here is get the electrical inspected then remove and replace the receptacles for non-nanny state ones.
No I meant clockwise. The loop is going around it in a clockwise direction but in order to use that feature I have to pull the wire in a counter clockwise direction to do it.
@@HowToHomeDIY you repeated “clockwise direction” twice, but the wire is still wrapped anti-clockwise. I’m not sure what part of that process is going clockwise other than the screw tightening?
From the start of the wire to the end of the loop that got put in the hole, it is going around it in a clockwise direction. That is how you want it to go to promote the wire being pulled in.
@@HowToHomeDIY but that’s pretending a shape, ie the J hook, has a direction. It doesn’t, it’s just a shape. The mechanical movement of the wire in making that shape is the only component with a directionality, and that’s anti-clockwise. I don’t see the point of teaching how to make a connection but then start talking about shapes rather than what you are actually doing with the wire. Saying “pull the wire anti-clockwise to make a clockwise shape” is a confusing way of demonstrating this. Personally I don’t use J connections, I make a ring shape, then it’ll stay attached even with a loose screw, as not all fixtures mechanically fix the wire in place.
Ok but that’s what is meant by wrapping it around in a clockwise direction. J hooks are generally made prior to placement on the receptacle. So while yes it is a shape, from beginning to end of the wire depending on how that goes on a terminal screw, determines its direction. In this case, from beginning to end of the loop is going around in a clockwise direction.
Keep pulling on the wire (Just tension) and turn wiggle the plug and the wire will come out. That is why you shouldn't use them. When I go on service calls about plugs not working it's 90% of the time the wire broke off the back from someone using the stab in (speed wiring). Best practice is just use wire strippers and make a hook. No electrician is doing what he says I have been doing electrical work over 20 years. Honestly this video is dangerous. Also, those cheap plugs he says to avoid, don't. They are just as he says residential grade. Meaning it's literally meant for a house. He is just showing a plug that has stuff that don't matter. For the price of that "fancy" 15 amp plug. You could actually just buy a 20amp plug. But in your house you only need 15amp and they are safe. I have the cheapest plugs from Home Depot in my very own house.
Great, this is a very good video when you are making a UA-cam video in a controlled laboratory situation, not a video trhat represents actual installation. Construction electricians dont carry a receptacle around with them to strip wires. They use tools made fror that purpose in their tool pouches.
I have an "Ideal" brand screwdriver 35-204 that has the "combination tip" I love this tool and use everyday. I wish Milwaukee, Klein or Ideal would make 2 inch (4" too) long ECX/COMINATION Bits for my cordless tools. IS ANY MANUFACTURERS OUT THERE PAYING ATTENTION ?
Some great info but the flat face (without the taper) reduces movement of the plug. If the receptacle doesn’t have the hook behind the terminal screw or it’s more rounded you can use the hole for the set screw to make a perfect shepard’s hook if the wire is stripped to the length on the back.
One other little known benefit of those smooth face receptacles is they do not collect dirt. Anyone who has had the recessed kind for a while knows how the little wells can collect dirt and debris and they can be difficult to clean and can be unsightly with white devices. On another note, I wish they would ban backstab devices. I cannot tell you how many I have found in older installations which have lost their grip, gotten hot and just outright fallen out when the receptacle is pulled from the box.
I have also seen in older homes or where it was passed through multiple DIY owners a conductor attached to each screw AND one in each backstab hole! OR they are used to feed another circuit down the line. I CANNOT believe that they aren't made illegal for all the danger they facilitate!
On the commercial grade outlet if you use the wire clamp functionality you have to make sure the insulation is NOT caught by the metal plate that clamps down. If it does clamp onto the insulation then you do not have a good connection.
My go to electrician, my dad,, passed away 25 yrs ago. I’m learning to do simple electrical home repairs. Thank you for the detailed info as all the features of a receptacle were kinda a mystery to me.
I just bought a bunch of 20-amp outlets for a shop rewire. The guy who built it put two 15-amp circuits in a 1100 sq ft shop. Dumb luck but I bought the commercial grade outlets and boy did those side pokers save me a bunch of time. Quick question - if I feed the entire shop off a GFCI circuit on the primary house panel, does that make the shop code (at least with regard to the GFCI requirement)?
Hard to find commercial-grade receptacles in our big box stores here in Montreal. I guess people here shun them because they're x2 the price. If I could find some I would buy 'em. Also ABSOLUTELY HATE those "Tamper-proof" receptacle which drive me nuts !!! So hard to plug stuff into ! I know you're supposed to slide the plugs a bit off to the side and I do get them in most of the time BUT they`re still a PITA !
I wonder if it's worth the trouble to replace some of my outlets at home, especially those I plug/unplug often, with commercial outlets, or residential ones usually are good enough
in my personal opinion as an electrician myself, I always replace a worn out outlet with a commercial grade 20 amp receptacle. Another youtuber Technology connections dissected some 15 amp receptacles, including residential ones, and their internal contacts are not always that good. 20 commercial grade amp receptacles usually have very good contacts and hold the plugs well, albeit not as good as hospital grade ones, but hospital grade receptacles are also usually the most expensive. That being said commercial grade receptacles are best used on plugs that are used frequently, as they do last a lot longer than residential grade outlets. If you use a residential outlet, use it where the load is not going to be heavy and the receptacle either rarely gets used at all, or just gets something plugged into it then left there for a long time. Commercial grade 20 amps are best in kitchens or garages where even if they aren't necessarily used with a 20 amp appliance, their greater heavy load tolerance is better with a lot of kitchen appliances which tend to draw a lot.
I always thought that the little tabs were a carryover from the days of lath and plaster where the device was screwed directly to the lath with no box.
I agree with you however it's not cost efficient to regular home owners cause if the cheap ones are properly installed the owner won't need to do anything to them for about 5 years
I wish someone would make a similar video for our local receptacles that look completely different . I'm from Denmark, and the available choices are Scneider LK originals versus cheaper E-line clones. Then there's all the older models which may or may not be better.
European electrical components are decades ahead of the American and are very easy to use. Schneider is a great choice and is used by professionals. Just be careful not to damage the copper when removing the insulation and read on the component on how much of it to remove. Not sure how it is in Denmark but here in Sweden you only need to match the color of the wires to avoid a short circuit.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
How many of these features were you aware of? Most folks seem to know about 2-3 on average.
You’re Wrapping Wire Counter Clockwise 🚫
No, I pulled the wire around counter clockwise but the J hook itself is going around the screw clockwise. Due to the design it has to be pulled that way in order for the hook to go around in a clockwise direction like it should be. Take another look.
A majority were new to me. Well done!
All but ground screw pin hole for wrapping. Not sure it is faster than wrapping with stripper in hand already. But I'll try it.
You’re more likely to remove the break-off tabs on the live terminal for kitchen receptacles that have separate circuits top and bottom.
I knew next to nothing! Thank you so much for teaching us all. Not only does it make the work safer, but easier as well. 👍👍
Wow. A real receptacle class. Who knew all these features exist? It makes me want to look at all the receptacles in my house.
I've done any electrical work but watching your videos makes it look so easy. "Black Gold" I'll always remember that.
You are one good teacher, l have learned a lot from your videos , stay blessed
Really glad to hear you have found value in the channel. Thank you very much for the kind words and feedback. God bless!
Great video. I certainly did not know that a regular wall outlet had so many features. Really appreciate you taking the time to show these features so clearly. Keep up the great videos.
Wow, 40 years later and I'm still learning DIY tips. Thank you!
I've been wiring for a LONG time-- never knew about the built-in stripping function on outlets, etc! WOW!!! THANK YOU!
YOU'RE so FULL of great information and present it quickly & to the point! You DO make a difference! Thank you!
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thank you very much for taking the time to let me know that. Seriously, I really do appreciate it Sonny.
Great video! Receptacles should have quick cheat sheets included with this kind of info. Lots that many people don't know.
I knew these, but since I’m not installing receptacles and switches that often it’s a nice refresher thanks👍
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I love the internet. So many home projects I’ve worked on in the past decades would have gone a lot better had your channel existed back then. Thanks. I learn so much from you.
Great, clear information! Thank you!
Always learn something new on your channel! A lot of it feels like common sense, but that's just because my dad gave me a solid foundation in wiring when I was in middle school. Had no idea about the built-in wire strippers!
right on video, great tips Keep up the good work, very helpful on my current project, Thanks
HowToHome ... Thank you for another in-depth video and saving us time, money and helping us to feel safe. 🎵
You explain it in simple terminology. Easy to understand.
.
That's
Great video, thank you. I am certainly no electrician, but dabble in wiring quite often. Very good tips here. 13:22
Great stuff! Been wiring quite a few years and didn’t know these tidbits of info on outlets. Thank you!
Thanks for the info. I always need a video like these as a chronic DIYer.
Thos Klein combination bits are a game changer. Wish I knew about that 20 years ago!
I love them! Appreciate the feedback Eric!
Awesome as a new electrician i find all this facinating.
The engineering that has gone into these seemingly simple devices is pretty impressive. Thank you for showing us these features.
Wow! I learned quite a few NEW tricks! Many Thx again for your VERY INFORMATIVE videos!!!
So much useful information. Shows me just how much I don't know. Thank you!
Great vid! What you said at 10:30-11:13 for me raises this question: Suppose on a commercial receptacle such as you show, you hook two black wires around the screws and up to four black wires pushed into the back-wiring holes behind the plates on the same side - would you then have up to 6 wires safely connected without any marrette or wago or crimp? Same question with white wires on the other side. And does code allow that method of wire connection? One more question - if the answer to the above are "yes," if you get a commercial grade receptacle rated for copper and aluminum, can you join the wires that way without needing a CO/AL rated marrette or wago or crimp? Thanks for your time.
Wow, I am 61 old and I learn a lot! Great video 👍
Very interesting things out in plain sight that many are unaware of. Thanks for the video
Excellent video. You should have pointed out the shutter safety feature on the residential outlet.
Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Thank you so much for the info on the outlets. Never knew!
Great video! Had no idea about these features. Thank you!
Knew about all those and Robertson's but did not know about the other driver tips. And didn't keep the ears for spacers. Will now. Thanks.
A push connector receptacle failed at our beach house, just as you described. Simple fix but a warning to redo all the others, too. Subscribed.
Great stuff, I learned several new things. Thanks
Great video very informative
You Always Have Great Information On All Your Videos. Thank You ! 👍
Love this stuff thanks for the videos keep them coming
Super helpful. Learned and confirmed a lot in 13 mins. Thanks!
Very enlightening. Thanks.
I knew about half of them, thanks for another great video!
I learned 5 things!!! Thanks😃 I'm wondering though, to strip the wire using the gaps at the top of the outlet, if you insert the wire from the front, then make the trimmed end flush with the back face of the outlet, is that the correct strip length? It would be cool if that were true, or helpful if they'd make some stop on that side to indicate the correct length. I've used the frangible bridge to separate the two plugs for a switched receptacle but wish there were a good way to indicate which is full time power vs switched. I've painted the switched one and the wall switch red, but the paint wears off over time and looks terrible. I'd like factory finished paired switch and outlet sets to clearly and resiliently indicate which is which.
Thanks for all your tips
Torque specs are readily available too but good on you for saving some DIY people a lot of headaches or harm. I'm a Red Seal electrician and this is good advice for the cheapskates
Thanks for the info. Very interesting video 😊
Very helpful video. Knew.a few of them but not all. Thanks.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback Larry!
Just started watching your video's thanks I'm still unsure of my self so you are my go to electrician professional.lol
Awesome tips. I just bought the cleaner for my AC and I will clean that. It's only a year old. But it is dirty
Really useful and eye-opening, Thank you!
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Very nicely done video. Learned a couple of things I didn't know! Subscribed
Ideal brand screw drivers item number 35-204 is my go to for this kind of work. They call it a combination tip also. I would like one of these manufacturers make a #1 and #2 Combination bit in a 2" length.
thanks for the training, this is very informative.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback Gordon!
This is one awsome video! I give it a 10
Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I learned something again watching your channel. Thanks!
Thanks sir very great job 🥰👍👏.
Definitely a good informative video.
Cool information and useful!
Great video! Thank you.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
another great video , i learn something every time thanks
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback Robert!
Excellent videos, thanks
You blew my mind with these!
I thought about putting that in the title actually 😂 Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
These tips are so quirky and interesting.
Awesome information. Thanks
The old saying is true... you get what you pay for. Me... I only install spec grade devices. Well worth the extra cost and they last longer.
I'm a union electrician, i had to change all the receptacles out in my sister's mostly new home. they wouldn't even clasp the u ground plug contacts, they would just fall out. it's an extreme fire hazard.
Commercial spec are non tamper and you have to have tamper resistant/proof plugs in a residential/dwelling by code.
@@joshbarr118 TR receptacles are available in spec grade.
Thirty years in the trade and I have no problem installing resi-grade recepts.
Installing vs. how long they last are two completely different things. As always, you are welcome to do whatever you want.
Those broken off ears from outlets also make nice washers to reinforce 1/8" pop rivets.
The hole size is perfect.
Great tips!
Great teaching video
Thank you for the video. But one part of the topic no one ever addresses in any videos is the best way to hook up multiple switches or receptacle plugs in one box. With two or three light switches in one box or two to four plug receptacles such as a workbench might have in a shop, what's the best way to jumper connections between each light switch or receptacle plug? Do you recommend I just use a pig tail/wire nut with a wire going to each switch or receptacle plug, or put two wires under the first screw if it has one of those floating clamps, or one wire under each screw and not break the tab between the upper and lower receptacle connections, or just two wires under the first screw on each light switch? I prefer to use metal boxes and rigid metal conduit in my shop (a converted semi-truck box trailer) with ground connections going to everything. I also use 20 amp receptacles although I've never seen a device that needs such a plug, but for the shop I figure its better to have it and not need it than to get something that needs it and not have that configuration available. Your thoughts? Thank you.
Just make sure when using 20a receptacles is that the wiring be rated for at least 20a as well.
Great video with lots of info.
Great handy dandy knowledge 😊
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback Patrick!
Good video ! I’m subscribing. Hope you have a lot more.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. I do have quite a bit and a whole lot more on the way! Thanks a lot for the feedback Douglas!
I've done SO, SO MUCH diy electric and didn't know about removing the ears for old-work boxes. Now I have to go back and make sure my faceplates look okay. I know one switch that this may help for sure.
I learned
some things. Thank you
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
the most significant difference between duplex outlets from the various models and manufacturers are some 15 Amp. duplexes actually are made with 20 Amp. (so called T-slot) internal metal contacts. Both hot and neutral slots. You can't see them unless you shine a bright light into the parallel slots, but if you do eventually you'll find one made like that and more than anything else that's what you want. Because blade retention force and wiping action is superior on standard 15 Amp. plugs when inserted into T-slot type metal socket contacts
Definitely solid information. Thank you
As a Canadian I use Robertsons only whenever doing electrical. They make it so much easier.
One comment. You did not mention that the code, at least in Canada, requires in new construction the child proof receptacles that are an absolute pain to get the plugs into. What we tend to do here is get the electrical inspected then remove and replace the receptacles for non-nanny state ones.
I grew up in Germany with 220v outlets none of which had a safety plug. I am alive and well. Just saying...
3:41 I believe you meant anti clockwise direction
No I meant clockwise. The loop is going around it in a clockwise direction but in order to use that feature I have to pull the wire in a counter clockwise direction to do it.
@@HowToHomeDIY you repeated “clockwise direction” twice, but the wire is still wrapped anti-clockwise. I’m not sure what part of that process is going clockwise other than the screw tightening?
From the start of the wire to the end of the loop that got put in the hole, it is going around it in a clockwise direction. That is how you want it to go to promote the wire being pulled in.
@@HowToHomeDIY but that’s pretending a shape, ie the J hook, has a direction. It doesn’t, it’s just a shape. The mechanical movement of the wire in making that shape is the only component with a directionality, and that’s anti-clockwise. I don’t see the point of teaching how to make a connection but then start talking about shapes rather than what you are actually doing with the wire. Saying “pull the wire anti-clockwise to make a clockwise shape” is a confusing way of demonstrating this.
Personally I don’t use J connections, I make a ring shape, then it’ll stay attached even with a loose screw, as not all fixtures mechanically fix the wire in place.
Ok but that’s what is meant by wrapping it around in a clockwise direction. J hooks are generally made prior to placement on the receptacle. So while yes it is a shape, from beginning to end of the wire depending on how that goes on a terminal screw, determines its direction. In this case, from beginning to end of the loop is going around in a clockwise direction.
Thank you! How do you get the speed wiring out of the hole - just in case?
Keep pulling on the wire (Just tension) and turn wiggle the plug and the wire will come out. That is why you shouldn't use them. When I go on service calls about plugs not working it's 90% of the time the wire broke off the back from someone using the stab in (speed wiring). Best practice is just use wire strippers and make a hook. No electrician is doing what he says I have been doing electrical work over 20 years. Honestly this video is dangerous. Also, those cheap plugs he says to avoid, don't. They are just as he says residential grade. Meaning it's literally meant for a house. He is just showing a plug that has stuff that don't matter. For the price of that "fancy" 15 amp plug. You could actually just buy a 20amp plug. But in your house you only need 15amp and they are safe. I have the cheapest plugs from Home Depot in my very own house.
Thank you! Much appreciated advice!
Good information ...
All the best tips
I learned a lot. When you reached into the commercial grade box and it showed $5.98 each, I went "woe" out loud. 6X the cost is hard to justify.
Great, this is a very good video when you are making a UA-cam video in a controlled laboratory situation, not a video trhat represents actual installation. Construction electricians dont carry a receptacle around with them to strip wires. They use tools made fror that purpose in their tool pouches.
You clearly love my channel. And that’s not the point of the video.
Good shit thanks buddy!!
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I have an "Ideal" brand screwdriver 35-204 that has the "combination tip" I love this tool and use everyday. I wish Milwaukee, Klein or Ideal would make 2 inch (4" too) long ECX/COMINATION Bits for my cordless tools. IS ANY MANUFACTURERS OUT THERE PAYING ATTENTION ?
Some great info but the flat face (without the taper) reduces movement of the plug. If the receptacle doesn’t have the hook behind the terminal screw or it’s more rounded you can use the hole for the set screw to make a perfect shepard’s hook if the wire is stripped to the length on the back.
Well done!
Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
One other little known benefit of those smooth face receptacles is they do not collect dirt. Anyone who has had the recessed kind for a while knows how the little wells can collect dirt and debris and they can be difficult to clean and can be unsightly with white devices. On another note, I wish they would ban backstab devices. I cannot tell you how many I have found in older installations which have lost their grip, gotten hot and just outright fallen out when the receptacle is pulled from the box.
Aye, the idea behind the backstab method is nice but the execution just isn't ideal.
I have also seen in older homes or where it was passed through multiple DIY owners a conductor attached to each screw AND one in each backstab hole! OR they are used to feed another circuit down the line. I CANNOT believe that they aren't made illegal for all the danger they facilitate!
On the commercial grade outlet if you use the wire clamp functionality you have to make sure the insulation is NOT caught by the metal plate that clamps down. If it does clamp onto the insulation then you do not have a good connection.
My go to electrician, my dad,, passed away 25 yrs ago. I’m learning to do simple electrical home repairs. Thank you for the detailed info as all the features of a receptacle were kinda a mystery to me.
Taught me something, Thanks
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it! Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I just bought a bunch of 20-amp outlets for a shop rewire. The guy who built it put two 15-amp circuits in a 1100 sq ft shop. Dumb luck but I bought the commercial grade outlets and boy did those side pokers save me a bunch of time. Quick question - if I feed the entire shop off a GFCI circuit on the primary house panel, does that make the shop code (at least with regard to the GFCI requirement)?
Local codes are varied. I'd check the code in your area.
Yes but if the shop is in your house the plugs need arc fault protection as well
Good to know..thanks.
Good info!
Hard to find commercial-grade receptacles in our big box stores here in Montreal. I guess people here shun them because they're x2 the price. If I could find some I would buy 'em. Also ABSOLUTELY HATE those "Tamper-proof" receptacle which drive me nuts !!! So hard to plug stuff into ! I know you're supposed to slide the plugs a bit off to the side and I do get them in most of the time BUT they`re still a PITA !
I wonder if it's worth the trouble to replace some of my outlets at home, especially those I plug/unplug often, with commercial outlets, or residential ones usually are good enough
in my personal opinion as an electrician myself, I always replace a worn out outlet with a commercial grade 20 amp receptacle. Another youtuber Technology connections dissected some 15 amp receptacles, including residential ones, and their internal contacts are not always that good. 20 commercial grade amp receptacles usually have very good contacts and hold the plugs well, albeit not as good as hospital grade ones, but hospital grade receptacles are also usually the most expensive.
That being said commercial grade receptacles are best used on plugs that are used frequently, as they do last a lot longer than residential grade outlets. If you use a residential outlet, use it where the load is not going to be heavy and the receptacle either rarely gets used at all, or just gets something plugged into it then left there for a long time. Commercial grade 20 amps are best in kitchens or garages where even if they aren't necessarily used with a 20 amp appliance, their greater heavy load tolerance is better with a lot of kitchen appliances which tend to draw a lot.
Should the tab be broken on the hot and neutral lines or just the hot?
Had no idea about the built in strippers. Wish I had known about that a few days ago, but I'm now prepared for the future. 😊
I always thought that the little tabs were a carryover from the days of lath and plaster where the device was screwed directly to the lath with no box.
I injoy your video's
I agree with you however it's not cost efficient to regular home owners cause if the cheap ones are properly installed the owner won't need to do anything to them for about 5 years
That bit works with the new breaker screws
I wish someone would make a similar video for our local receptacles that look completely different . I'm from Denmark, and the available choices are Scneider LK originals versus cheaper E-line clones. Then there's all the older models which may or may not be better.
European electrical components are decades ahead of the American and are very easy to use. Schneider is a great choice and is used by professionals. Just be careful not to damage the copper when removing the insulation and read on the component on how much of it to remove. Not sure how it is in Denmark but here in Sweden you only need to match the color of the wires to avoid a short circuit.