Avoid These! 7 FATAL Mistakes Hiding In Your Light Switch Boxes!
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- In this video I will cover the biggest mistakes DIYers unknowing make when installing light switches! Many folks are shocked to learn that they have been installing these incorrectly for so long! I will also go over the proper ways they should be installed and some better practices.
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Be honest, have you ever done some of these mistakes, or found them done in your electrical boxes? It is a lot more common than many might think!
I have gotten into a lot of old work. I have seen a lot of bad workmanship, and just old obsolete methods, but, no, it's never been me.
I have not done any of these mistakes, but I have been having to correct some of these mistakes by the previous homeowners in my house since I moved in.
But does that Klein 11-in-1 set come with that combination bit you mentioned? Or do I need to buy the tool and then buy that bit separately?
This is not the first time I have opened one (or multiple) switches, receptacles, or junction boxes to correct a mistake I have made, which you have shown me.
Thanks for your knowledge and expertise. And for not calling us DIYers, like me, "dummies"
@@bunnycabbit Good evening Bunny. You asked; "does that Klein 11-in-1 set come with that combination bit"
No it doesn't. They are sold separately. It is called an ECX bit. It usually comes in a pack of 2, from Milwaukee, for about $5.
You can find them at Lowes, Home Depot, or Ace. But they are kind of hard to find in these stores. You might take a picture of it to show the clerk.
They are handy to have.
Good luck!
To be honest, I have committed a couple of these errors and after watching some of your other videos , have gone back and corrected my mistakes. I have also found a lot of these left by previous diy installers. Love your vid, btw. You’ve helped me a lot along the way.
We live in a house built in the late 70s. We've been here for over 13 years and every outlet or light switch issue I've found have all been related to using the backstabs. All but one of the four were corrected by converting the connections to the shepherds hook under the side terminal screws. One I just didn't like the looks of so I decided to err on the side of caution and replaced it. No issues since! I appreciate your videos and, wow, thankful I've not found the two wires under one terminal screw situation!
Thank you for the great videos. I almost always learn something new. For this video I learned about combination bits. I have a decent amount of electrical knowledge and experience so I knew about the light switch and everything to do with it.
Excellent video on the basics. I just finished replacing all the old switches and outlets in our home of 32 years making sure everything was wired correctly.
Could you do a video on replacing the doorbell transformer?.....I think that will be my next project. Thanks again for the great video content.
Screwdrivers a good topic for a beginner. But I’ve found a few people that are not aware of them. I’ve noticed at the big box stores they’re on the bottom shelf and are few. Thanks again for sharing your experience. Merry Christmas 🎄 and I hope you have a wonderful New Year.
Screwdrivers?
Yeah, people need help finding and using screwdrivers.
@@nothankyou5524 Yes, you want a JIS screwdriver set for this sort of stuff. It's far less likely to slip, just make sure to be mindful to not over-tighten.
I appreciate your videos. I knew most of these tips except for the hybrid bits. I'm definitely getting one of those bits.
I’ve personally used the green square bit (#1 Robertson) for over 30 years. Easily to find and works great.
@@garyd3725 the square bit is so underrated... way better than a Phillips, but Phillips heads are everywhere. I too use the square.
All good information that most people don't know. Thanks for sharing.
Well DONE.... appreciate these reminders for some and easy to follow instruction for others .
You have a whole bunch of great info here. These fancy bits you mention are not necessary for the average person, albeit great for a professional doing larger jobs. Terminal screws are brass which is relatively soft. Philips tips are garbage for these terminal screws and I don't recommend them either. I have been using a #1 Robertson (that would be a green-handled square drive for our American friends) for almost 40 years now without issues. I am not a "gadget guy", so for me, a #1R, #2R, a standard(flat) that fits the terminals, side cutters and good stripper/crimper, hammer, a couple of nut drivers and pliers are all the tools I carry in my pouch for such electrical jobs. To each their own, though. Cheers.
I think I am your average DIYer. At 2 for under $5.00, anyone that has struggled at all with the frustration of screwdriver slip-out, especially if you have ever stabbed yourself, will really appreciate the Ecx bits. For DIY, I don't see the need for two, but at that price it really doesn't matter.
How about a video explaining systems that do have a neutral wire and those that don’t? I have an older house that doesn’t have a neutral wire. It’s a bit confusing when you diy in places that have one or the other. Any basic rules or guidelines available?
Neutral or ground? if your house doesn't have a neutral, you have a major problem. if it doesn't have a ground, you have a minor problem.
@@kenbrown2808 When I order smart switches I have to order switches that specify “no neutral required” as opposed to a normal switch. They don’t use ground wires either come to think of it.
@@LordoftheCats okay, so you're in a house with a star layout and 2 wire switch loops. I'd put a rewire on your wish list. you're probably short on power, and may have hidden damage from overloading the existing wiring.
@@kenbrown2808 OK, thanks. I'll check into it, but there's not much I can do. It's a rental; I understand a new 200-amp box was installed about 8 years ago, but the house wiring wasn't changed.
@LordoftheCats fair point. Don't want to dump too much money into a rental.
thank you soooooo soooo much for your knowledge sharing!
I always do a couple wraps of electrical tape around the connections also.
Learned a lot
Awesome! Thanks a lot for the feedback Scott!
Good job young man!
Thanks.. I have learned so much about safely repairing home wiring from you! I have seen (maybe made??) all of these issues. One technique that I have seen used is a portion of the insulation removed from the center of the wire and a loop (U shape) secured under a single screw. Is this within code? Is it unsafe? It’s essentially two connections under one screw, but only one wire.
Standard practice is to use the bottom screw terminal as the line side and the top screw terminal as the load side.
They're literally labeled now, and the directions are pretty specific on it
The first time I installed a switch I made the mistake of inserting the switch on the neutral wire instead of black. The switch worked and the light would shut off and turn on. I realized my mistaken when changing the light bulb for the first time. A recessed light and the switch was off but i touched the base of the bulb as I inserted it (couldn’t see what I was doing so I was working by feel) and the edge of the socket and got a wicked shock. Never made that mistake again.
If a person is self taught in anything they only learn by their mistakes
thanks good job!!
it's a best practice to put the line wire on the top screw of a single pole switch. that way if there's ever a problem down the road, you know the top terminal should be hot.
No, it hasn't been Best Practices for a long long time. Maybe you want to look into why.
Typically the bottom screw is the hot. This goes back to the days when we had fuse blocks. The default was hot on bottom that way if the circuit was supposed to be open (off) if the switch mechanism fell due to gravity it would not energize the circuit. It would default to non energized.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148 that was a knife switch that you installed to gravity would hold the blade of the switch open. and you connected the hot wire to the top terminal, so that when you opened the switch, the blade would not be energized. . fuse blocks were to be installed with the hot terminals up, the range and main above the plug fuses, and the load terminals at the bottom. and didn't have a knife switch. you deenergized it by pulling the entire fuse holder out of the block.
You are right that you could use either screw of the switch. Electricians how ever will put the line on the bottom screw pointing to the floor and the switch leg on the top pointing to the ceiling light. Just do not assume it is always wired that way. Always use your tester to determine how it is wired and please if someone is not sure how to test leave it to someone who does.
The first time I tried to change a light switch I became the breaker. I should have realized the first shock was telling me to turn off the fuse to that room but it took 2+ more and me waking up on the ground a few minutes later to realize
Wow...I mean the breaker box should always be the first place you start.
@maddawgnoll absolutely, but I was 20ish very untrained, high as a kite, thought I knew more than the electricity gods, or anyone else, and learned my lesson real quick.
@@maddawgnoll Yep, although if you're using the lever nut integrated variety of switches and receptacles, it can be tempting to not bother as it's a lot easier to get them in and out without getting shocked and once out, it's just a matter of keeping the hot and the neutral from touching anything before putting them into the new device.
Still, not a particularly good idea, but far safer than working on one of the older style hot. IMHO, if you've got essential equipment that doesn't permit you to power down, get somebody that's actually competent to work on these things hot as there's so many ways it can go wrong.
Switch loop will have the neutral connected to the light switch. I don't think code allows them anymore, but they are still common in lots of older homes
In your opinion, what is the difference between a WAGO connector and a back stab connection? I'm old school. I'll stick to wire nut and screw terminal connections.
Wago contacts are much stronger then the cheap contacts found in most backstab switches. They are also rated for hundreds of reuses and are easy to remove and change as needed.
Are they better or worse than traditional wire nuts, debatable.
@@KienTran I like the Wagos but I do believe wrapping them with tape is a good idea if you are going to be stuffing them in a junction or switch box.
a backstab has a spring that pushes out of the way when you push the wire in, and hooks the wire on the way out. a Wago has a spring with a hole in it - the lever pushes the spring to open the hole, and when you release the lever the spring pulls the hole against the wire. I still favor wire nuts for permanent installations, but on control hardware that burns out frequently, wagos make it easier to change out components.
@kenbrown2808 I would agree with that. On low voltage applications I wouldn't see a problem with them. In typical residential applications I just wouldn't feel comfortable using them. But that's just me.
@@bigd3104 they are rated for 30 amps. but they are bulkier, pricier, and rely on the internal components to carry the current, rather than making a direct connection like a good wire nut does. I tried out the devices with built in Wagos, and they are made for trailer house work - I don't doubt they will carry the load, but they are also made to be used with oversized plates.
There are some switches and receptacles that allow more than one wire to be held down by the same screw. However, they are NOT double stacked (which is always bad). Just a clarification for those who might be confused by the "one wire per terminal screw" mentioned in the video.
The video is correct about backstabbing the wires (also called Speed wiring). However, don't confuse it with back wiring. Many newer receptacles and switches have a plate under the screw that allows you to put the wire straight in under the plate then tighten the screw. This isn't a problem.
So good you agree with the creator.
BTW, do you have a video up for commercial switches and receptacle outlets. Let the guy do his job, huh? That's enough on here for beginners.
@@nothankyou5524 nothing wrong with a little education. Not everything was covered, and all the OP did was add something left out. For those that want to know.
Yep, I've got a receptacle sitting on my desk right now that's designed for back wiring. It doesn't even have side terminals to attach to. And the connection for the wire is firm. Not having worked with these before, the wires literally broke off rather than pulling out the way they would with a backstab in many cases. (for those that don't know,t here's a couple of spots to put a screw driver to loosen the hold so you can get the wire out if you want to. )
@@maddawgnoll Yep, and if you've got a worn out receptacle, it may well have been back wired and if it's been back wired that doesn't suggest that the wiring was done in a lazy way that might suggest looking at more stuff to fix.
7:36 newbies might need to know you don't leave the white wires alone, you connect them.
I am fairly sure I said that. About how they get connected to each other.
@@HowToHomeDIY Yes, you said wire nuts or Wago could be used.
In regards to the installation of the switch? Aren't the Neautrals already connected, in one way or another. Why would it not already be connected on a single poll-single throw switch?
@@HowToHomeDIYI'm sure you did.
I did.
You know, I've gotten the ECX but and it's hasn't fit any of the screws on plugs and switches I've installed. I've tried a square drive too just to make sure I wasn't crazy.
That is odd. I have not run into that with my ECX. I will say I prefer the Klein combination bits myself.
Gracias
Just a hint, any time you see a screw head with an indented dot on it, it's going to be a JIS head, which uses a JIS screwdriver. They're intended to not slip the way that Phillips do. That's what I would use, just because it works on other things rather than just the screws that have provisions for both Phillips and slotted screwdrivers.
Hey my friend I am one of your subscriber here on UA-cam and I am loving your videos they really help me if you don’t mind me asking you can you please make a video about resetting a GFCI and troubleshoot I would really appreciate it
What’s your thoughts on running electrical tape around the switch after it’s hooked up? Goes for outlets as well. I’ve spoken to some electricians that say they do that just to be cautious for the next person in the box, while I’ve heard other electricians say it screams DIY
it immediately identifies that the work was done by an amateur and to be suspicious of everything.
Why would you care what an electrician thinks
You do this as an extra safety measure so the screws never bump the box for any reason. It takes two seconds
Electricians don't like it because most are lazy. If you are asked to do it, or if regulations require it, or if in buildings where it's mandated, you'll be opening every box to redo what you did, and by rights, going nowhere until someone comes by to verify it. Try not doing this on military installations, maybe all govt buildings. Have money available to pay fines, too.
What about the switches for the garbage disposal because mine wasn’t connected and it wasn’t working as soon as I connected the neutral, it started working
Lights and your garbage disposal need a neutral wire, it isn't on the switch though. Just the hot goes through the switch.
So where do I connected to so that’ll work?
they probably ran what's called a two wire break - it's when the power goes to the plug or light, and then a cable goes from there to the switch - leaving only two wires in the box for the switch.
@@ivonnebeltran1633 I'm sure How To HomeDIY has a vid about hooking up a garbage disposal unit. Some are plug in, some units are hardwired.
In some circumstances, you used to be able to drop a two wire Romax down from the light fixture of course this contains a white wire, years ago that used to be legal if it’s still is, can you explain the procedure of doing that properly?
a relative of double stacking is to strip the middle of the wire and hook it over the screw with 2 leads coming off the terminal. it's obnoxious as heck.
Yep, I just came across that yesterday. I initially thought that they had double stacked it, but when I got it off the terminal screw, it was just a little bit that had been stripped mid-wire. I removed that bit, put my trusty Wago in with a couple of short pigtails, and now those switches are not sharing a wire until after the pigtail. I even took a moment to wire in a ground to each, even though the switches hadn't previously been grounded. I'm not really sure why they weren't, or why I should, but I had a ground wire into the box, and the new switches had a nice lever nut hole to put them in, so I did, just because having things like that grounded is pretty much always a good idea if the gear has a spot for it.
you'd be amazed (or amused, maybe both) at some of the wiring I've found in this house. my 100 year old house was wired better than this 15 year old house thing.
like a light switch with the tabs cut off, jammed into a box with a blank put over the top. there wasn't tape over the switch terminals either, just jammed in there live within a hair of the ground!
No i wouldn't. I don't think i care about your house.
3:56 What kind of screwdriver is that?
It is a Klein 11-to-1 combination with an ECX Bit. You have to buy the ECX bit separately.
You can get them at any big-box hardware or Ace. He talks about it at the end of the video. And there is a link posted in the description.
Old house wiring has two wires and no ground.
If you can't connect two wires onto one screw, can you connect one wire onto the screw and the second wire into the backstab?
You can legally but just like I talked about in the video, the back stab holes are well known causes of electricians service calls.
if you like chasing problems, a few years later.
all you need to do is make a pigtail, if you don't know how google it
The correct thing to do is make a short pigtail. You can get a wire nut for a few cents, or an appropriate Wago for a bit more. I had to do that with a switch yesterday because one of the switches had a wire wrapped around one of the screws before proceeding to the others. Which is all sorts of wrong. So, I cut it off, stripped it, installed a Wago and a couple short bits of wire to connect what the old one connected. And, I connected up the ground while I was at it, I'm not entirely sure why a light switch has a ground, but I saw no reason to bother knowing why when I had a spare bit of copper and a really easy time in terms of hooking the switches to it.
Is there a problem with using the ground as a neutral in a switched box that has no proper neutral wire? The draw to operate the timer function should be quite minimal. Would I be missing something?
The only place where a grounds and neutral wires are bonded together is at the main electrical panel. After they leave the panel, lines (hot), neutrals and grounds are all separate systems. Without getting into too much theory the electric code states you are never to connect neutral and ground together. Just don't do it
Simple answer here
NO
For number 7, what is the difference between, having too much copper exposed due to lack of insulation. Or having the screw terminals exposed? I have never seen electricians placing electrical tape over the screw terminals. I've lived in several houses here in IL, and every one of the switches and recepticles I've ever replaced were bare screw terminals.
So don't tape it.
@@nothankyou5524 You misunderstood, my statement. He was talking about removing to much insulation from the wire, then placing it on the screw with the copper exposed. Then he said it could cause an electrical short if the exposed wire came in contact with the ground wire.
All I asked was what is the difference if the wire is exposed, because the screws are always exposed and they don't seem to cause electrical shorts. My solution is to put electrical tape on the screws as well.
@@johnglielmi6428 I think it's got more to do with the fact that everything is designed with those screws being exposed, the wire isn't. There's probably some marginal risk of the end contacting something in the box.
Also, there are design specs and the more you stick to those specs, the less likely you'll have any weird stuff happens. I just wired up a couple switches with integrated wire nuts and I had the ground in between the two because it was too much of a pain to push back while also trying to get the plate to fit. It's not a problem with that style as the only exposed metal is for ground, but if it's too close to a loose end, it could be.
What is the difference between back stabbing a receptacle and using a wago???
Why would the wires move if they are inside the wall? Just curious. 🧐
Micro vibrations in the house, warm and cold temp variations, screw not quite tight enough, etc.
Well said!
We have been in our house for over 30 years. About 5 years ago, a bathroom and three bedrooms suddenly lost power. While checking for power at outlets and switches, I discovered a switch that had a wire completely removed from a stab connection. If you think about it, how often do you slap a light switch on or off? Even if you are always gentle, you are introducing vibration.
Heat and electricity in the wire. No high school physics?
So I just replaced a light switch with a neutral wire coming out of the wall. I first tried capping it like it said in this video. Turns out the light wouldn't come on at all without me connecting it to the switch.
Then it wasn’t a neutral wire or not a single pole switch which I covered both instances in the video.
I've been called to diagnose failed electrical circuits in houses at the beach where plugs and switches were wired with back stabbed connections. The back stabbed connections were corroded from the salt air. In California they are not allowed by code
I hope you took a couple extra minutes to apply some dielectric grease to the connections you were making. That should keep any moisture and salt crystals out of the connections. It won't help the plug side of the receptacle, but I think was probably not the issue.
what was the mistake in Mistake 1? if it doesnt matter what wire goes to what what screw, then its a choice, not a mistake \, dont you want the line wire to be on the ON position of the switch?
What bout if it’s for the Garbage disposal switch
If I make the mistake of removing to much insulation, could I use black electrical tape to correct this mistake?
No, just snip off the excess wire. So if you removed ¾" of insulation, but only need ½" wire exposed, snip ¼" of wire off the end. That will leave you with ½" exposed.
@@WW-hr1hd Yep, that's also why it's good to have a pair of wire cutters with a nice small point, you can cut that stuff off right where you need to if you do have more than you want. I think the main exception would be wagos and lever nuts where you have to remove them to cut the end due to it being in the connector.
One thing I found in my home is the neutral is switched, probably a result of a previous DIY owner's bathroom remodel.
Neutral should never be switch you should have that fixed
@twigd3825 planning on it. Found other DIY issues too.
@@kenschmidt6522 Fortunately, that's probably an easy fix as long as you've got both the hot and neutral wires going through that box.
4:08 You put the second hook around the screw in the wrong direction --- i.e., counter-clockwise --- there, just as you told us NOT to do a moment earlier. :O :S
Ok what is your point? Everything about that part was a mistake I was demonstrating. 🤣
I'll admit I was almost holding my breath when he was talking about line/load - I thought he was leading up to saying line should go on the terminal near (or away) from ground or something. I have always gone with it doesn't matter. Well, more of whichever wire seems to fall naturally above or below the other so I'm not twisting/forcing wires into position.
Why would you be holding your breath?
@@nothankyou5524 It is (or was?) a common expression "back in my day"... Holding your breath in anticipation. As in, I was waiting, thinking oh great, here it comes, I've been doing something wrong for the last 40 years or so...
Lesson with switches & human relations: DON'T BE A BACKSTABBER!! 😂
why don't they just get rid of the back stab holes ?
That's a good question. They have receptacles that are wired from the back, there's a much stronger spring that you use a screwdriver to loosen while you insert the wire, and they've got ones now that have integrated lever nuts. The ones with terminal screws on the sides, really shouldn't have those holes to backstab with.
Electricians make a lot of money replacing stabs that have gone bad. feel free to draw your own conclusions.
And bad ones save a bunch of time due to how fast it is to do.
if the white wire is ever the load, somebody already done f***ed up. that's the point I assume every thing is done wrong, and take no chances.
I agree but I have seen it in older homes using a switch loop.
@@HowToHomeDIY as I said - as soon as I see it, I assume everything is done wrong. and I'm right as often as not.
The nec now state you have to have a neutral in a switch box. Before then it was very common to bring only two wires down from the light to the switch box. The white was connected to the line and the black became the switch leg. this was not a f-up it was the correct way to wire a switch loop.
@@twigd3825 yes, and do-it-yourselfers often connected the black to the line, and used the white to switch the load - or worse, connected the fixture to the line, and switched the neutral. which is why I treat a switched white wire as a warning that the person who wired it wasn't competent.
It’s too bad the back stab holes didn’t lock the wire by tightening the empty terminal screw all the way down.
Would be the best of both worlds.
There are switches and receptacles that actually do that and let you secure the backstabbed wire. Switches designed for LED lights and GFCI receptacles often have screws to secure backstabbed wires.
@@WW-hr1hd If you're going to do that, you might as well get ones that have integrated lever nuts and be done with it. Or, you can get the ones for contractors that dispense with the side screws entirely. I just removed one yesterday and the connection is firm. In fact, it was so firm that the wires more or less snapped off at the receptacle because I didn't realize that I needed to put a screwdriver into the slot to release them. So, they definitely do get a strong connection like that.
It's the ones that are not designed for that which are the issue.
oh my...makes me want to go through the house and check all the outlets. ugh
You installed your receptacle upside down. Now the electrons are going to get light-headed as they go through your cables. You're welcome.
Do you wish you could explain the clockwise wrap thing once, and not have t repeat in every video?
Not really, because I think it is that important and the new videos always reach new people that didnt know about it.
Only a moron would install wires that unscrew when the screw is tightened. If you don't CW from CCW hire an electrician. Well neutral DOES have to be connected.. but NOT in the switch box (for one there may not even BE neutral located there (because you ain't switching neutral)). Those screws oughta be torx not Phillips or slots or combos but unfortunately they ain't). I also dip my stripped copper in dielectric grease. Yeah that stuff works! BTW that grease works great on batteries too because most remotes and stuff do NOT have gold plated battery contacts they're just zinc plated. If you don't know WTF this stuff is it promotes conductivity and lessens corrosion.
#4 is it allowed to strip middle of wire and hook around screw with wire shaped into a U. To continue line to the other switch in the same box? And under code -- could someone use screw and back stab on same switch -/ I know backstab is not recommended. But I am asking if inspectors see it can they fail it claim code violation
I don't think mid stripping is a code violation, but it's bad practice although looping a bare ground wire around both screws in a 2 gang setup is meh, okay.
Using a screw and backstabbing on a switch or receptacle is also not a code violation, but is unacceptably bad workmanship. Use pigtails.
Inspectors may or may not pass, but they won't be impressed, so strive for quality and awareness and you shouldn't have any problems.
it is ALLOWED to strip the middle and wrap the screw, and it is ALLOWED to "stab and wrap" but both are signs of a low bid shop. (note some jurisdictions have apparently banned stab connections altogether)
I came across that literally yesterday. I thought it was just a short jumper wire between the switches with 2 wires on one of the terminals, but it turned out to be one wire coming into the box and being used to connect both of the switches to power. I removed it and pigtailed it because that seemed like a much better idea. But, it does happen and presumably was signed off by somebody during the '70s.
@@kenbrown2808 Yep, I came across that yesterday when swapping out one of my switches for a new one. Presumably, it had passed inspection back in the '70s, but that seemed like a bad idea, along with the presense of a ground wire in the box that wasn't connected to either of the switches. The replacement switches had a lever nut for a ground, so I wired one in, but when dealing with wiring of that age, it's not always clear what is a legitimate thing that needs fixing if you're not a licensed electrician.
Id say if they dont know what a pigtail is, they probably shouldnt be DIYing any electrical in the home.
That depends how things were set up. If somebody had pigtailed things properly, there should be enough extra wire to just snip and strip the bits that were connected to the receptacle and insert them the same way into the replacement.
That being said, if they've got a situation like I do where there's other irregularities like running a wire through one terminal screw to something else in the same box, that's a good sign that you need to stop if you don't know how to prepare a pigtail so nothing bad happens.
You didn't know until someone showed you.. 🤔
Well honestly i read about electrical before i ever decided to DIY anything. So, yes and no. @@stormeegarvin7190
I just use a Robertson bit in my screwdriver, but I am in Canada and Robertson bits are common.
Well, in the USA, you have shit electrical system. It starts with 110V, no three phases, and very lacks code
Good video. Relax, speak a little slower. Us as old guys have to replay to make sure we understand.
I see absolutely zero difference in back stab slots and wago. Both are friction fit, exact same construction. I have learned things from this channel, but the hate for back stab while gushing on wago never made sense
Then you haven’t actually looked. I don’t gush on Wagos. In fact I almost always say in most of my applications I use wire nuts. That said, Wagos and the internal mechanism inside a receptacle or switch that hold the wire in the back stab holes are completely different. Comparing apples to oranges
there is a difference in construction. take them apart and see for yourself.
@@HowToHomeDIY Yes, also, there are receptacles that are wired from the back. It looks like backstabbing, but if you pull on those wires they are incredibly hard to pull out. I've got one sitting on my desk and there isn't even a side terminal for side wiring on there at all. And, I broke one of the wires trying to pull it out when I was removing it yesterday, so it clearly is a secure connection.
So mistake number one is not a fatal mistake and is not even a mistake at all. Click bait much?
It isn't clickbait. It is just an interesting title that absolutely does apply to the majority of the video.
It is not click bait he is giving good advice. I am in this field over 40 yrs I have seen all this and more then you could image. I made my living fixing diy mistakes. The difference between him and I is I would not show you anything because if you got yourself killed it would ruin my life too.
Your 1st procedure is incorrect. Always place the Feed wire to the top of the switch and Switch leg Load on the bottom. Line(feed) always on top.
Number 1 isn’t a mistake. And, indeed, it’s not FATAL either.
Number 1 it’s a title that very much applies to just about the entire video. The mistake is not knowing, and not knowing could very well lead to a fatal mistake being made, as believe it or not I’ve seen people try to wire a neutral and a hot to the light switch. Heck, I’ve seen people try to put both black wires and the neutral on the different terminal screws. Number 2 Fatal has more than one meaning. Good effort though.
Again, wrong wrong wrong.If one cable enters a switch box the white wire has to be the feed or line and the blck is the load. Dont mislead people. Where are you getting this stuff? Do you know why the white is the line wire?-I dont think you do!!