Just learned yesterday working on my 100 series with my buddy that you can access and torque the upper shock bolt by accessing it with a few extensions and torquing from up in the engine bay! Might help someone make this process even smoother!
Shouldn’t you have tightened those lower front shock mounting bolts to spec with wheels on the ground? Seems like torquing to spec when lifted off the ground will put bottom shock mount bushings in a bind.
Bill Harvey next video will be the full walk around and review of the suspension. You can also go check us out at at @bradyadventures on Instagram there should be plenty of recent pictures
Great question! I don't think it is absolutely necessary. Getting the sway bar back in stock orientation takes the extra pressure off the sway bar so it preforms as designed and your ride should be better. It also allows for more suspension travel allowing you to take advantage of the extra travel you get from the shocks and UCAs. More droop in the front makes the lift preform much better and safer. another vid on droop to come. since I never had the lift without the extended links I am not really sure of the true difference in handling feel. Trail tailor had them in stock at the time and my bushings were shot anyway so figured I would do it at the same time. Thanks!
Your welcome! Back when I did this install old man emu were not available as far as I knew. SPC and total chaos were the only options I can remember. SPC also happened to be what slee offered in their kits and they were great at answering all my questions and pointing me in the right direction so that's what I decided to go with. Thanks!
You don't have to but you will be able to get your alignment and specifically camber closer to factory specs which will result in a much better ride. Sorry it took so long to get back to you been off grid for a couple weeks.
Hey man, great videos. I got lots of inspiration from you to do my own modifications to my 100 series. Did you install extension front sway bars at 4:00? What brands are they and whats their benefit?
I did install drop links all around from trail tailor www.trail-tailor.com/store/c4/Other_Series.html They will help keep the ride smooth by keeping the sway bars at the correct geometry. Sorry it took so long to get back to you been off grid for a couple weeks.
Does the Lower Control Arm also need to be beefed up or changed at all with this setup? I'm not actually installing the SLEE Kit, but will be replacing the UCA and LCA on both sides- so this demo helped me out quite a bit.
I don't think the LCAs need to be beefed up. The main reason for the uca is to get greater drop and allow for larger diameter shocks. The LCAs are strong and not the limiting factor. Thanks glad the video was helpful !
It was stock without AHC but the stock non-AHC suspension ON THE 100 series does not have coilovers. It's separate coils and shocks in the rear and shocks with torsion bars up front.
Thanks so much for checking in! Yep all is well. The summer managed to continuously pull me away from youtube. Took a couple great trips in the cruiser I will post some vids on at some point. We also had a hell of a wet summer resulting in a couple major home projects. Everything is getting back to normal, kids and wife headed back to school, so I should be doing some major catch up here. Thanks again, more content is coming soon!
Hey Bradley. I have one question. How does the truck ride? I have a 2002 and I am about to order the same set up, but some have said that the ride is "harsh". One person said that they could not drive down a street with their daily coffee for fear of it jumping out of their hand. Any comments would be great. I don't mind a "firm/sporty" ride, but harsh is a different story all together.
Hey man, I thought I had responded to this a week ago but looks like it didn't save. I don't think the ride is harsh at all. I think most people that have that experience is because that use springs that are too heavy for the back. I have medium springs and the truck is pretty loaded and it rides great. I think if I would have gone heavy it would have been pretty rough. I am going to go heavy as soon as I install a rear steal bumper. If you aren't loaded up you could even go with some light rear springs. I apologize for the late response! Good luck with your build!
Man I need your help. Did you install extended sway bar front and rear with your suspension upgrade? What is difference in length between these extended ones and the stock both fron and rear.
Some people will run 34s with this set up and get a little bit of rubbing if you're running 35 or above you may need to do a number of other things. I'd check out ih8mud.com there's a lot on this topic there. sorry ot took so long to get back to you I've been off grid the last few weeks. good luck!
What about torque specs? Do you remember what they are or could you point me in the right direction? You've mentioned them on other videos but I don't recall hearing any in this one. I hope all is well. Thanks.
I don't remember the exact torque specs but I'm sure I used the service manual. Search on ih8mud.com In the 100 series forum for the service manual. I bet you'll find it there and the torque specs within if not let me know.
Great question that many people ask but only Toyota designers really know. I've heard it was to give it better on road performance and handling. I think we all wish it had coilovers.
How come the slee doc upper control arms are $577 for the pair but OEM ones are over $650 for the pair?? Which ones are actually better? I’d think slee made good ones but are the OEM more durable or something?
Wow that is a great question and cool observation. First, point of clarification, the UCAs that Slee sells are from the company “SPC Alignment“. They specialize in this type of product for everything from commercial to race applications. Also, check McGeorge Toyota, for some reason they have the best prices on OEM Toyota parts, UCAs there are $285 each so $570 total, almost the same as SPCs. I don’t have a definitive answer on which are stronger but here are some general thoughts. The Toyota UCAs are pretty heavy duty and probably have more overall material (steel) than the SPCs. The SPCs are tube steal and the construction, I would guess, is equally strong or stronger but either way strong enough for what I would throw at them. Toyota parts in general are incredibly expensive and do not always compete competitively with the aftermarket products since their focus is on dealership maintenance and not aftermarket performance. The main reason to get aftermarket SPCs is to allow for additional caster adjustment and droop needed when lifting the cruiser and also to allow for larger shocks, there’s more clearance inside the arm. I have seen alignment results on lifted cruisers without aftermarket SPCs and the caster numbers are not great and off caster can cause some sketchy handling characteristics. I talk about this a little in this video ua-cam.com/video/0XPWKTfGFN4/v-deo.html If you are not lifting the vehicle then I would stick with the stock UCAs and if you are lifting definitely go with aftermarket. I hope that is helpful and thanks for the great question!
Man, all your videos are great, except for the cheesy music!!! Especially in the beginning when you are just talking. It was louder than your voice and was hard to understand you. It gets really annoying by the end of the video hearing the same stupid repetitive song. 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks man! some like it and some hate it but I agree I over do the cheesy music from time to time.😁i haven't been able to produce much the past few months but when I'm back I'll tone it down some 😁
I am pretty sure you could get everything aligned except for the caster. Caster correction is the main benefit of the aftermarket UCAs, some are preset for correct caster at a ~2" lift and the SPCs have a range of adjustment. I have seen peoples numbers with out UCAs and the caster numbers are not good. Plenty of people drive them that way but it's not great.
Thank you for making these videos. This will be extremely useful when I do my lift next month.
Just learned yesterday working on my 100 series with my buddy that you can access and torque the upper shock bolt by accessing it with a few extensions and torquing from up in the engine bay! Might help someone make this process even smoother!
Thanks!
Shouldn’t you have tightened those lower front shock mounting bolts to spec with wheels on the ground? Seems like torquing to spec when lifted off the ground will put bottom shock mount bushings in a bind.
Did you need the upper control arms or could they hsve aligned it without them
I want to see the new lift with the 33s on
Bill Harvey next video will be the full walk around and review of the suspension. You can also go check us out at at @bradyadventures on Instagram there should be plenty of recent pictures
I dont have instagram or Facebook.. do you have Myspace?
I did a long time ago 😀 I can tell you it looks awesome!
First time I see a drop link replacement as part of a lift kit install. Do you think it is needed?
Great question! I don't think it is absolutely necessary. Getting the sway bar back in stock orientation takes the extra pressure off the sway bar so it preforms as designed and your ride should be better. It also allows for more suspension travel allowing you to take advantage of the extra travel you get from the shocks and UCAs. More droop in the front makes the lift preform much better and safer. another vid on droop to come. since I never had the lift without the extended links I am not really sure of the true difference in handling feel. Trail tailor had them in stock at the time and my bushings were shot anyway so figured I would do it at the same time. Thanks!
Why did you go with spc instead of old man emu upper control arms? How do you like your choice since it’s been a while? Thank you for the video!
Your welcome! Back when I did this install old man emu were not available as far as I knew. SPC and total chaos were the only options I can remember. SPC also happened to be what slee offered in their kits and they were great at answering all my questions and pointing me in the right direction so that's what I decided to go with. Thanks!
Do I have to upgrade after market upper arms when lifting the car 2’’ lift?
You don't have to but you will be able to get your alignment and specifically camber closer to factory specs which will result in a much better ride. Sorry it took so long to get back to you been off grid for a couple weeks.
Many thanks...💪🏾
Hey man, great videos. I got lots of inspiration from you to do my own modifications to my 100 series. Did you install extension front sway bars at 4:00? What brands are they and whats their benefit?
I did install drop links all around from trail tailor www.trail-tailor.com/store/c4/Other_Series.html They will help keep the ride smooth by keeping the sway bars at the correct geometry. Sorry it took so long to get back to you been off grid for a couple weeks.
Does the Lower Control Arm also need to be beefed up or changed at all with this setup?
I'm not actually installing the SLEE Kit, but will be replacing the UCA and LCA on both sides- so this demo helped me out quite a bit.
I don't think the LCAs need to be beefed up. The main reason for the uca is to get greater drop and allow for larger diameter shocks. The LCAs are strong and not the limiting factor. Thanks glad the video was helpful !
Did you do an AHC delete beforehand or was your Land cruiser stock coilovers with no AHC?
It was stock without AHC but the stock non-AHC suspension ON THE 100 series does not have coilovers. It's separate coils and shocks in the rear and shocks with torsion bars up front.
Hope all is ok was hoping for the next video
Thanks so much for checking in! Yep all is well. The summer managed to continuously pull me away from youtube. Took a couple great trips in the cruiser I will post some vids on at some point. We also had a hell of a wet summer resulting in a couple major home projects. Everything is getting back to normal, kids and wife headed back to school, so I should be doing some major catch up here. Thanks again, more content is coming soon!
Hey Bradley. I have one question. How does the truck ride? I have a 2002 and I am about to order the same set up, but some have said that the ride is "harsh". One person said that they could not drive down a street with their daily coffee for fear of it jumping out of their hand. Any comments would be great. I don't mind a "firm/sporty" ride, but harsh is a different story all together.
Hey man, I thought I had responded to this a week ago but looks like it didn't save. I don't think the ride is harsh at all. I think most people that have that experience is because that use springs that are too heavy for the back. I have medium springs and the truck is pretty loaded and it rides great. I think if I would have gone heavy it would have been pretty rough. I am going to go heavy as soon as I install a rear steal bumper. If you aren't loaded up you could even go with some light rear springs. I apologize for the late response! Good luck with your build!
@@BradyAdventures Thank you for your response. I will update you once i get it all together!
Man I need your help. Did you install extended sway bar front and rear with your suspension upgrade?
What is difference in length between these extended ones and the stock both fron and rear.
Yep i did both front and rear. I think they're about an inch longer but can't remember for sure.
nais work
thanks brother!
So are 33" tires as tall as you can go with that set up? I was thinking of 37" or at least 35" for me...
Some people will run 34s with this set up and get a little bit of rubbing if you're running 35 or above you may need to do a number of other things. I'd check out ih8mud.com there's a lot on this topic there. sorry ot took so long to get back to you I've been off grid the last few weeks. good luck!
What about torque specs? Do you remember what they are or could you point me in the right direction? You've mentioned them on other videos but I don't recall hearing any in this one. I hope all is well. Thanks.
I don't remember the exact torque specs but I'm sure I used the service manual. Search on ih8mud.com In the 100 series forum for the service manual. I bet you'll find it there and the torque specs within if not let me know.
and all is well! thanks for asking and checking us out!
why this model doesnt come with a front spring?
Great question that many people ask but only Toyota designers really know. I've heard it was to give it better on road performance and handling. I think we all wish it had coilovers.
My landcoroz is jamping chaning the shake and chaning spring but purbeleum is this
🤔
अगर यह हिलता है, तो अपने सीवी एक्सल, उचित संतुलन के लिए पहियों और संरेखण की जांच करें।
How come the slee doc upper control arms are $577 for the pair but OEM ones are over $650 for the pair?? Which ones are actually better? I’d think slee made good ones but are the OEM more durable or something?
Wow that is a great question and cool observation.
First, point of clarification, the UCAs that Slee sells are from the company “SPC Alignment“. They specialize in this type of product for everything from commercial to race applications. Also, check McGeorge Toyota, for some reason they have the best prices on OEM Toyota parts, UCAs there are $285 each so $570 total, almost the same as SPCs.
I don’t have a definitive answer on which are stronger but here are some general thoughts. The Toyota UCAs are pretty heavy duty and probably have more overall material (steel) than the SPCs. The SPCs are tube steal and the construction, I would guess, is equally strong or stronger but either way strong enough for what I would throw at them. Toyota parts in general are incredibly expensive and do not always compete competitively with the aftermarket products since their focus is on dealership maintenance and not aftermarket performance.
The main reason to get aftermarket SPCs is to allow for additional caster adjustment and droop needed when lifting the cruiser and also to allow for larger shocks, there’s more clearance inside the arm. I have seen alignment results on lifted cruisers without aftermarket SPCs and the caster numbers are not great and off caster can cause some sketchy handling characteristics. I talk about this a little in this video ua-cam.com/video/0XPWKTfGFN4/v-deo.html
If you are not lifting the vehicle then I would stick with the stock UCAs and if you are lifting definitely go with aftermarket.
I hope that is helpful and thanks for the great question!
Man, all your videos are great, except for the cheesy music!!! Especially in the beginning when you are just talking. It was louder than your voice and was hard to understand you. It gets really annoying by the end of the video hearing the same stupid repetitive song. 🤦🏻♂️
Thanks man! some like it and some hate it but I agree I over do the cheesy music from time to time.😁i haven't been able to produce much the past few months but when I'm back I'll tone it down some 😁
Did you need the upper control arms or could they hsve aligned it without them
I am pretty sure you could get everything aligned except for the caster. Caster correction is the main benefit of the aftermarket UCAs, some are preset for correct caster at a ~2" lift and the SPCs have a range of adjustment. I have seen peoples numbers with out UCAs and the caster numbers are not good. Plenty of people drive them that way but it's not great.