I wish that more people would explain stuff to me like I was a less than genius 5 year old though. The adult world is filled with people who don't want to explain stuff for various reasons.
Thank for this. Very educational and long overdue. Kind of like the watch industry, no real standardization on what is what. I’m glad to see content makers like you bringing this type of awareness to what can be a very confusing topic.
Thank you good sir, finally an honest explanation. I've seen popular videos confusing terms and giving wrong information. I knew most of this but it was a pleasure to listen to you. Could you do a video explaining vegetable tanning, chrome, oil, semish etc. How it impacts the quality and characteristics, how to tell if something is chrome or veg, how and where does patina form and the dye process. Love your videos!
This is awesome, Teik. I just ordered the same Cordobes boot in chocolate roughout and the sneak peek you gave us has me so excited. I chose a leather sole with a half-lug on the c-100 last. This sneak peek already looks like it has a better finishing than the last cordobes you posted. Glad you gave them another shot. They’re learning and seems like they’re open to suggestions.
Brilliant! I'll admit, having remained dazed and confused till now, that I took screenshots and made notes. I can now refer to my awesome cheat sheet. Bloody Playschool....genuis! Thank you Teik.
Wow! I knew much of this in bits and pieces, but your video does an outstanding job and of connecting the entire leather lifecycle, from hair to flesh...and everything in between. You definitely answer some of my misunderstandings of Washed Flesh and Washed Suede. Enjoyed!
This is the best explanation i've seen so far. I was a bit confused about the terms and differences, but your video really helped clarify everything. Thank you.
I love my rough out suede Coniston boots by Crockett and Jones. The more i wear them the better they look, I'm in England worn them in all conditions, rain, sleet, snow without any problems although i no allow to dry naturally if they get soaked in cedar boots tree's before wearing again. Excellent video explaining the various leathers
If I am not careful I learn something new every day. Thank you for the great lesson! I actually wore my Higgins Mill boots today with lots of spring time snow. (3 inches). Please keep educating us.
I just bought some Sanders in C. F Stead waxy commander suede. 1st boots I've owned with Stead leathers and they look awesome. Sanders are a brand worth looking at Teik. Good company with a good history
Teik, this was first video to give definitions of leather types. Yes I am still confused but that way I learn to become a novice. Thanks for the lesson and I would never buy a boot from you. My foot is larger than yours. Keep the videos coming from down under. Your friend from north of the Equator, Alex.
Very helpful video. Ive been meaning to start paying better attention to the type of leather in my work boots before making a purchase. My boots are exposed to constant moisture, occasional chemicals and animal byproduct, and they scrape up against pallets and such. Suffice to say my boots have not held up well in the past. Lately ive started wearing nicer boots and my rotation is a pair of Drews loggers in brown doublshot and Whites Perrys. I also have a pair of Truman's but I couldnt bring myself to let them get beat up at work. Ive found the doubleshot leather does a fantastic job with water resistance, however when they rub or cut against something it shows much easier. My whites Perry's are the opposite, they hold up to abrasion beautifully, or at least it blends with the distressed look, however they soak in literally everything. What I need is something with excellent water resistance that doesnt show abrasions so easily. Maybe Nubuck leather is something I should be considering?
@@Bootlosophy Okay so it sounds like I probably already have the best thing for my work conditions then with the double-shot. I suppose a leather that is both great against abrasion as well as water resistant is probably not a thing, since the same smooth finish that doesnt allow water to penetrate is also what can more easily get scratched.
Over the years I've come to realise that "Full Grain " is as misleading a term as "Genuine Leather " (which incidentally can be good leather as it's not legally defined ). If you look at "full grain" calf leather shoes for example you don't see a natural leather surface. You mostly see a relatively shiny, smooth and heavily dyed surface. It may be "full grain" but it doesn't mean that the surface hasn't been heavily altered through pigment/dyeing, sealing/glazing, water resistant treatment or oiling/waxing etc.. And there's a continuous series of surface treatments all the way up to a full acrylic coating with no clear definition of when it becomes "corrected". Regarding nubuck, I suspect the main reasons for using it is price, leather availability and also for cosmetic and consistency reasons. It allows cheaper hides to be used with more scars and bite marks and therefore can be used in cheaper boots and it also allows them to use hides from cattle in parts of the world where bite marks and tears are more common. There's a finite supply of high quality leather and a lot more people in the world wanting it than there used to be. Plus a lot of the best leather used to come from veal calves kept in crates and that has been outlawed by the EU. It also allows colour and surface consistency in (for example) the Timberland boots you show. You could line up half a dozen pairs of Timberland boots and they'd all look the same whereas a non sanded leather would have colour and surface texture differences. And consumers not used to "natural" leather products may not like that. The reverse suede used in CF Stead's Janus suede (and other European tanneries reverse suedes) is calf suede. As calf skins are thinner it is possible to have "full grain suede" without splitting ( I believe they shave off some of the corium ) and have 1.6mm to 1.8mm thickness suitable for dress shoes. I suspect the roughout coming from American tanneries is from older cattle and hence thicker.
@@Bootlosophy No but when you think about it, it does get tricky. Especially for "corrected" leather. I've footwear with a very heavy pigment/coating which water just runs off but will still accept conditioner and cream. In fact my black Thursday Captains are like that (and are very different from the brown Captains with allegedly the same leather). Then there's a leather colour like white which requires a very heavy pigment to make it white and will always be "corrected" by some people's definition. Regarding "genuine leather" this again is used by many retailers even for full grain or high quality leather. It is used interchangeably with "real leather" and you'll see good quality leather items described as genuine leather. Finally, I suspect that the standards organisations haven't kept up with the technology as tanneries develop ever more "imaginative" coatings and treatments to developing leather products for various markets in a world where people want leather items but frequently want convenience and consistency and don't want to maintain them. It's only weird people like us that value patina and like caring for our leather items. Leather tanning, despite often using ancient techniques is an evolving industry and the variety of leathers available today seems to be expanding all the time.
Hi Teik, I was wondering what kind of watch you are wearing in this video? Pretty nice looking timepiece. I'm asking because I am actually shopping around for one. Anyway another informative video. Love the content.
@@Bootlosophy Understood, just wearing Abilene leather right now on my Red Wings and it seems to be rough out that is sanded slightly. Rough out that is not that rough.
I wish that more people would explain stuff to me like I was a less than genius 5 year old though. The adult world is filled with people who don't want to explain stuff for various reasons.
Thank for this. Very educational and long overdue. Kind of like the watch industry, no real standardization on what is what. I’m glad to see content makers like you bringing this type of awareness to what can be a very confusing topic.
Thank you good sir, finally an honest explanation. I've seen popular videos confusing terms and giving wrong information. I knew most of this but it was a pleasure to listen to you. Could you do a video explaining vegetable tanning, chrome, oil, semish etc. How it impacts the quality and characteristics, how to tell if something is chrome or veg, how and where does patina form and the dye process. Love your videos!
I appreciate the fine explanation of different boot leathers. New to the leather boot world.
Probably the best breakout of each of these categories. Thanks Teik.
This is awesome, Teik. I just ordered the same Cordobes boot in chocolate roughout and the sneak peek you gave us has me so excited. I chose a leather sole with a half-lug on the c-100 last. This sneak peek already looks like it has a better finishing than the last cordobes you posted. Glad you gave them another shot. They’re learning and seems like they’re open to suggestions.
Brilliant! I'll admit, having remained dazed and confused till now, that I took screenshots and made notes. I can now refer to my awesome cheat sheet. Bloody Playschool....genuis! Thank you Teik.
Wow! I knew much of this in bits and pieces, but your video does an outstanding job and of connecting the entire leather lifecycle, from hair to flesh...and everything in between. You definitely answer some of my misunderstandings of Washed Flesh and Washed Suede. Enjoyed!
This is the best explanation i've seen so far. I was a bit confused about the terms and differences, but your video really helped clarify everything. Thank you.
Man this was really cool! The visual aids were absolutely my favorite part. Please make more videos like this!
I love my rough out suede Coniston boots by Crockett and Jones. The more i wear them the better they look, I'm in England worn them in all conditions, rain, sleet, snow without any problems although i no allow to dry naturally if they get soaked in cedar boots tree's before wearing again. Excellent video explaining the various leathers
Great video, Teik.! well explained and detailed. Clearest explanation I have seen. Thank you.
If I am not careful I learn something new every day. Thank you for the great lesson! I actually wore my Higgins Mill boots today with lots of spring time snow. (3 inches). Please keep educating us.
I just bought some Sanders in C. F Stead waxy commander suede. 1st boots I've owned with Stead leathers and they look awesome.
Sanders are a brand worth looking at Teik. Good company with a good history
Nicely explained
Teik, this was first video to give definitions of leather types. Yes I am still confused but that way I learn to become a novice. Thanks for the lesson and I would never buy a boot from you. My foot is larger than yours. Keep the videos coming from down under. Your friend from north of the Equator, Alex.
Very helpful video. Ive been meaning to start paying better attention to the type of leather in my work boots before making a purchase. My boots are exposed to constant moisture, occasional chemicals and animal byproduct, and they scrape up against pallets and such. Suffice to say my boots have not held up well in the past. Lately ive started wearing nicer boots and my rotation is a pair of Drews loggers in brown doublshot and Whites Perrys. I also have a pair of Truman's but I couldnt bring myself to let them get beat up at work. Ive found the doubleshot leather does a fantastic job with water resistance, however when they rub or cut against something it shows much easier. My whites Perry's are the opposite, they hold up to abrasion beautifully, or at least it blends with the distressed look, however they soak in literally everything. What I need is something with excellent water resistance that doesnt show abrasions so easily. Maybe Nubuck leather is something I should be considering?
@@Inbal_Feuchtwanger not nubuck! Smooth grain leathers like double shot are more waxy and water resistant
@@Bootlosophy Okay so it sounds like I probably already have the best thing for my work conditions then with the double-shot. I suppose a leather that is both great against abrasion as well as water resistant is probably not a thing, since the same smooth finish that doesnt allow water to penetrate is also what can more easily get scratched.
Over the years I've come to realise that "Full Grain " is as misleading a term as "Genuine Leather " (which incidentally can be good leather as it's not legally defined ).
If you look at "full grain" calf leather shoes for example you don't see a natural leather surface. You mostly see a relatively shiny, smooth and heavily dyed surface. It may be "full grain" but it doesn't mean that the surface hasn't been heavily altered through pigment/dyeing, sealing/glazing, water resistant treatment or oiling/waxing etc.. And there's a continuous series of surface treatments all the way up to a full acrylic coating with no clear definition of when it becomes "corrected".
Regarding nubuck, I suspect the main reasons for using it is price, leather availability and also for cosmetic and consistency reasons.
It allows cheaper hides to be used with more scars and bite marks and therefore can be used in cheaper boots and it also allows them to use hides from cattle in parts of the world where bite marks and tears are more common. There's a finite supply of high quality leather and a lot more people in the world wanting it than there used to be. Plus a lot of the best leather used to come from veal calves kept in crates and that has been outlawed by the EU.
It also allows colour and surface consistency in (for example) the Timberland boots you show. You could line up half a dozen pairs of Timberland boots and they'd all look the same whereas a non sanded leather would have colour and surface texture differences. And consumers not used to "natural" leather products may not like that.
The reverse suede used in CF Stead's Janus suede (and other European tanneries reverse suedes) is calf suede. As calf skins are thinner it is possible to have "full grain suede" without splitting ( I believe they shave off some of the corium ) and have 1.6mm to 1.8mm thickness suitable for dress shoes. I suspect the roughout coming from American tanneries is from older cattle and hence thicker.
In Summary - they can’t get it together in defining things!!!
@@Bootlosophy No but when you think about it, it does get tricky. Especially for "corrected" leather. I've footwear with a very heavy pigment/coating which water just runs off but will still accept conditioner and cream. In fact my black Thursday Captains are like that (and are very different from the brown Captains with allegedly the same leather). Then there's a leather colour like white which requires a very heavy pigment to make it white and will always be "corrected" by some people's definition. Regarding "genuine leather" this again is used by many retailers even for full grain or high quality leather. It is used interchangeably with "real leather" and you'll see good quality leather items described as genuine leather. Finally, I suspect that the standards organisations haven't kept up with the technology as tanneries develop ever more "imaginative" coatings and treatments to developing leather products for various markets in a world where people want leather items but frequently want convenience and consistency and don't want to maintain them. It's only weird people like us that value patina and like caring for our leather items. Leather tanning, despite often using ancient techniques is an evolving industry and the variety of leathers available today seems to be expanding all the time.
Which type of leather is good for harder wearing, please
Fantastic rundown! Btw, ive been subbed since like the 2k mark lol. Keep on making awesome content :)
Thanks mate!
Awesome explanation
Thank you sir, I'm learning new things to the video .❤
Brilliant video. One of your best. Extremely informative, especially with the props!
😝 🖍️
Great explanation of leather properties!
Hi Teik, I was wondering what kind of watch you are wearing in this video? Pretty nice looking timepiece. I'm asking because I am actually shopping around for one. Anyway another informative video. Love the content.
It’s an old Seiko sports watch (I don’t know the exact model) that used to belong to my father-in-law.
Thanks! I'll check them out
What leather would you recommend for a snowy and rainy environment? Does cxl stain when wet? Thanks
Excellent video Teik, thank you!!
I left out Shell! Next time!
Is it possible to make Corrected grain polished leather (or bookbinder) shoes less shiny? Maybe rubbing alcohol?
Can you help me understand CF Steads Rambler leather? I understand it's a flesh-out but the inside of the leather feels like suede.
Waw. Thanks Teik. You are genius!
and Abilene leather?
Yeah, but as I said in the video I’m not really dealing with tannages, just types of leather
@@Bootlosophy Understood, just wearing Abilene leather right now on my Red Wings and it seems to be rough out that is sanded slightly. Rough out that is not that rough.
Who is the Wedget people ?
Google Whadjuk