Only been in e-biking for a year and only ridden hub drives. Your explanation on how the mid drive can provide more range is definitely food for thought. Up here in the NC mountains range and ability to pull steep inclines are a must.
I'm in hilly/mountainous Washignton State. Mid-drive is necessary. Walmart has a Hyper mid-drive, full suspension, 29er MTB for $1500; recently snagged one on sale for $699 from Hyper's own website. Cheapest path to trying mid-drive. performing admirable so far, at that(or similarly discounted) price, would suggest.
Test rode a ton of styles and bikes before we purchased. Some being Hub drive and some mid drive. We found bikes thar fit us and both have a Bosch mid drive. Totally happy with our investment.
I would actually very much like to try out a Bosch Middrive. As you know, I’m in the market a bit for a good mountain bike class one. The top of the line bikes tend to have Bosch and Shimano motors. And they say they require less maintenance. I’m really not sure as I believe a lot of the bikes with that motor are mountain bikes that are not piling on the miles like we do out on bike trails. How has your maintenance been with that bike? Thanks much for watching, we really appreciate it.
Owned both, definitely an advocate of mid-drive. Hubs work if you live in flat areas; at the very least get a hub w/ torque sensor. "Acoustic" relates to sound/resonance. "Analog" is a more fitting distinction against "Electric" , though not totally accurate itself (its actually the opposite of "digital", and many electronics are themselves analog. But hard to call them "manual" bikes, everyone will think you're referring to poppin "wheelies")
I have always been an advocate of mid drives. However, I am enjoying the hub drives. And the fact that we put on so many miles, The lack of maintenance needed on them is a definite refreshment. But when I go back off the road on tight twisting trails, the mid drive is the way to go. Thank you much for watching. We do appreciate it
If I’m heading for a dirt trail that’s not as groomed as it should be. I’m definitely taking my mid-drive. But I gotta tell you these torque sensor bikes are pretty nice on the trails too On the road I want my hub drive. Awesome video very informative thank you.
I just like the centered weight of a mid drive much better for the off-road. Not just a gravel trail somewhere but difficult off-road where you have tight, switchbacks, and things of that nature. I am actually enjoying riding the hub drives, torque sensor and cadence sensor on the easier roads and trails. What I really like is a drastic reduction I will have in maintenance. Thanks for watching Gary. You seem to be getting pretty busy over there. Good deal.
For mountain biking and downhill, I'll pick mid drive every time. The less un-sprung weight, the more your tires stay in contact with the trail. Mountain bike definitely have the mechanical advantage of gearing, but many road bikes do not, and I dislike getting stuck behind them on steep hills! It's easy enough to just pass them, but then I have to do the courteous thing and stop and wait while they struggle up 😉 One thing I notice, is that comparisons are always about good mid drives and cheap hub drives. No one is willing to make comparisons with good hub drives... the kind that weighs less than a mid drive, can pull a quarter ton up a hill, and still be reasonably efficient? I'll still prefer a mid drive in the appropriate setting, but there's something very nice about something that will out perform most mid drives and require almost zero maintenance.
Mid-drive is the engineer's solution, and hub drive is the layman's solution. Yes, hub drive is less efficient, but it's simple, less messing with gears, if your chain breaks you can still get home. I mostly use the throttle to get back to cruising speed after a stop, especially at traffic intersections, and not worrying about downshifting before stopping is simpler. I have a 21aH battery and a 500W hub drive motor, did a 37 mile ride on Sunday and used 20% of the battery. Range is not a problem for me. 500W is enough to help me up the steeper hills I ride locally. I could upgrade to a 750W hub (for a cost), but I suspect that would just make me lazier. The point of the bike was to get more exercise. Next - Cadence vs Torque sensor?
I am going to be doing a video about cadence versus torque actually. I believe you something up pretty well with a Middrive is for engineers and a hub drive for Laymen. Probably one of the best explanations I have heard. I find myself down shifting even on the hub drive though. We just got done with some relatively long rides and I did use the hub drive. Found myself downshifting and upshifting even though I could use a throttle. probably just in my blood from my riding motorcycles and driving straight shift vehicles. But I definitely like the idea of not having to do as much maintenance. Especially with the mileage that Michelle and I put on when we were riding the Greenways etc. Thanks so much for watching.
@@southernebiking I do downshift when I'm approaching a red stoplight, but here in Oregon we have the Stop = Yield for cyclists, so if I'm approaching a 4 way (no lights) stop in the 'burbs and think I can get through without stopping I'd rather keep my momentum going. If I do have to stop, the motor get me going again. I used to ride in London UK, and it's all the stopping/starting that is so tiring. I can keep a steady cadence for ages, but getting going again after a dozen traffic lights is a pain.
@@ziploc2000 I hear ya. I typically handle the stops as a momentary stop where I don’t even put my feet down. I will tell you on the heavier bikes. It can be an issue with getting going again a lot of times. I had never noticed this on my trek bike, but it only weighs about the same as a flea. I actually kind of enjoyed getting down to it. Just to see if I can balance for a bit there.
I've seen pond turtles for the first time this year, supposedly they live in several local ponds here in Oregon, but this is the first time I've spotted them, sunbathing on logs in big groups. Last year I saw my first Bald Eagle in the wild, perched on one of the pine trees visible from my house.
We have the pond turtles everywhere around here. The eagle, that was really cool to see that. Michelle was talking to a friend of hers and told her about it. She happen to be on the speakerphone. She said yes we had a family of them living on our farm. Kind of took the wind out of my sail. So I just told her, “ so what, my eagle can beat up your eagle.” lol. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Terry and thanks for watching. A bit of a spoiler alert. Thursday will be a video about what I see the biggest differences between what I have been writing and what I am doing some riding on now. Enjoy the rest of your day.
Thanks Marcus. I have considered this, but it is such a personal choice when it comes to the seat. Typically I try to look for a smaller seat. Most folks seem to want a larger seat. I do try and share when I am trying a new one to let people know how they are. Thanks for the suggestion I may have to put some more thought into that.
I like the hubs better because I had one midriver and the way I want to pedal and throttle up to speed means I broke a few chains. They can put too much power on the chain.
I have never broken a chain in the thousands of miles. I have red mid drives. But I still carry a small piece of chain, chain breaker, and a master link. But I do here quite often how people are breaking chains. I’ve just never experienced it. Thanks for watching.
hub drives offer more security that you'll be able to get home if anything should happen to your chain or derailleur. I've had a derailleur twist itself out of shape while miles from home, with a hub drive I was able to throttle back home. with a mid drive I'd have been stranded
Thank you for watching Chuck. I hear this all the time and it’s really not a good argument to me. I have a master link and a chain breaker that way nothing laying in my toolbag. The other side of that debate would be that if I get a back tire, go flat, I can change it immediately. Not so much so with a hub drive. So they both have their pros and the cons.
One big advantage you left out for the mid drive is the ease of removing the rear wheel in the case of a flat rear tire, same as fixing a flat on a non e-bike, not so true on the rear hub drive. Also the terrain in some areas of the country where a rider will encounter multiple steeper hills really wherever they go again like your BRP comment a hub motor would struggle there. A mid drive setup also to limit issues things like chain rings, cassettes and even more with the chain itself should use better heavy duty quality components in the build and keeping such clean and lubed after each ride will also reduce maintenance cost. For a mid drive I recommend keeping a new chain cut to the proper length in your toolkit just like you would keep patches or tire repair kits in case of a flat. In the case of a chain snapping replacing the broken item with a new properly sized chain is a very quick and easy roadside repair. Personally I think the advantages of mid drive outweigh the hub drives.
Thank you for watching Bill. I pretty much agree with everything you are saying. I will say that higher maintenance is the reason I’m starting to ride some hub drive now. If I had to have one bike and one bike only, it would guaranteed be a mid drive. But because I can have several bikes at this stage in my life, I am actually starting to ride Some hub drives on the rides my wife and I take together. That being said, I just now got back from some great mountain bike trails that there is no way I would want to be riding a hub drive on. Again, thanks for watching and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Saw a U Tube with a Citizen kit link for $500 no battery & $700 with a battery. That & new 26" air forks that still allow a front basket for the controller & battery would be nice.
@@stevecumming6427 l have been following Mr. Citizen (Brian) for years. I used him as an example of what I would buy if I were in the market for another bike. He has a 2018 Rad Rover that he installed the Bolton (Area 13) upgrade motor in, and I did the upgrade as well following Brian's example on his video. If he were to offer a kit for a 20 inch bike, I might buy it from him (I still have the Rad Rover but don't hardly use it anymore). I bought a Magicycle Ocelot last year (20 inch wheels).
Not so sure, I would really want all that weight. That may be a spoiler alert for my next video. Lol. Thanks much for watching. Maybe I need to go to the next town over and check out some of his inventions. Lol.
Interesting but you left out 2 more possibilities at least me thinks. Could go with mid drive & a front or rear hub. The new thing is AWD with 2 hubs for steep hills & quick starts. A mid drive has no back up system if the vital chain breaks, puts more loads on a chain but works more like pedaling an acoustic bicycle. I want dual hub motors on separate controllers, batteries & throttles as backup & for use only when needed to avoid hazards & climb steep hills in all terrain. 2 hubs on 1 controller & PAS activated could be a bit like riding a bucking bronco.
Thanks Steve. I’ve not mess with a whole lot of all wheel drives. So it’s kind of hard for me to comment on them. And the thousands of miles I’ve traveled on Middrive I have never broke a chain. I also carry MasterLink a small piece of chain and a chain breaker with me takes a very little room and does not add any weight to speak of. Now if you find one that rides like a bronc, let me know. That’s the one I want to settle down onto. Lol thanks much for watching.
Mid-drive for me every time if I have a choice. That being said, if I liked everything else about a bike and it only came with a hub drive I'd try one. I would still want a torque sensor. I had to get a cadence sensor with my Bafang mid-drive on my recumbent trike and I don't like the feel.
See my Bafang has a cadence as well, and I have never noticed any issue. It actually operates more like a regular bike than most torque sensor bikes I have ridden be it a Middrive or hub drive. I did go ahead and turn it internally to know 20 tomorrow exactly my specs. Thanks for watching Joe.
Only been in e-biking for a year and only ridden hub drives. Your explanation on how the mid drive can provide more range is definitely food for thought. Up here in the NC mountains range and ability to pull steep inclines are a must.
Honestly, Randy, a mid drive would be the way to go.
In the mountains and doing steep climbs, there's an advantage. Thanks much for watching
I'm in hilly/mountainous Washignton State. Mid-drive is necessary. Walmart has a Hyper mid-drive, full suspension, 29er MTB for $1500; recently snagged one on sale for $699 from Hyper's own website. Cheapest path to trying mid-drive. performing admirable so far, at that(or similarly discounted) price, would suggest.
Test rode a ton of styles and bikes before we purchased. Some being Hub drive and some mid drive. We found bikes thar fit us and both have a Bosch mid drive. Totally happy with our investment.
I would actually very much like to try out a Bosch Middrive. As you know, I’m in the market a bit for a good mountain bike class one. The top of the line bikes tend to have Bosch and Shimano motors. And they say they require less maintenance. I’m really not sure as I believe a lot of the bikes with that motor are mountain bikes that are not piling on the miles like we do out on bike trails. How has your maintenance been with that bike? Thanks much for watching, we really appreciate it.
@@southernebiking I have a maintenance plan from the shop I bought it from. Coming up on a year and everything is in tip top shape.
Owned both, definitely an advocate of mid-drive. Hubs work if you live in flat areas; at the very least get a hub w/ torque sensor.
"Acoustic" relates to sound/resonance. "Analog" is a more fitting distinction against "Electric" , though not totally accurate itself (its actually the opposite of "digital", and many electronics are themselves analog. But hard to call them "manual" bikes, everyone will think you're referring to poppin "wheelies")
I have always been an advocate of mid drives. However, I am enjoying the hub drives. And the fact that we put on so many miles, The lack of maintenance needed on them is a definite refreshment. But when I go back off the road on tight twisting trails, the mid drive is the way to go. Thank you much for watching. We do appreciate it
If I’m heading for a dirt trail that’s not as groomed as it should be. I’m definitely taking my mid-drive. But I gotta tell you these torque sensor bikes are pretty nice on the trails too On the road I want my hub drive. Awesome video very informative thank you.
I just like the centered weight of a mid drive much better for the off-road. Not just a gravel trail somewhere but difficult off-road where you have tight, switchbacks, and things of that nature. I am actually enjoying riding the hub drives, torque sensor and cadence sensor on the easier roads and trails. What I really like is a drastic reduction I will have in maintenance. Thanks for watching Gary. You seem to be getting pretty busy over there. Good deal.
For mountain biking and downhill, I'll pick mid drive every time. The less un-sprung weight, the more your tires stay in contact with the trail. Mountain bike definitely have the mechanical advantage of gearing, but many road bikes do not, and I dislike getting stuck behind them on steep hills! It's easy enough to just pass them, but then I have to do the courteous thing and stop and wait while they struggle up 😉
One thing I notice, is that comparisons are always about good mid drives and cheap hub drives. No one is willing to make comparisons with good hub drives... the kind that weighs less than a mid drive, can pull a quarter ton up a hill, and still be reasonably efficient? I'll still prefer a mid drive in the appropriate setting, but there's something very nice about something that will out perform most mid drives and require almost zero maintenance.
Mid-drive is the engineer's solution, and hub drive is the layman's solution.
Yes, hub drive is less efficient, but it's simple, less messing with gears, if your chain breaks you can still get home. I mostly use the throttle to get back to cruising speed after a stop, especially at traffic intersections, and not worrying about downshifting before stopping is simpler.
I have a 21aH battery and a 500W hub drive motor, did a 37 mile ride on Sunday and used 20% of the battery. Range is not a problem for me. 500W is enough to help me up the steeper hills I ride locally. I could upgrade to a 750W hub (for a cost), but I suspect that would just make me lazier. The point of the bike was to get more exercise.
Next - Cadence vs Torque sensor?
I am going to be doing a video about cadence versus torque actually. I believe you something up pretty well with a Middrive is for engineers and a hub drive for Laymen. Probably one of the best explanations I have heard. I find myself down shifting even on the hub drive though. We just got done with some relatively long rides and I did use the hub drive. Found myself downshifting and upshifting even though I could use a throttle. probably just in my blood from my riding motorcycles and driving straight shift vehicles. But I definitely like the idea of not having to do as much maintenance. Especially with the mileage that Michelle and I put on when we were riding the Greenways etc. Thanks so much for watching.
@@southernebiking I do downshift when I'm approaching a red stoplight, but here in Oregon we have the Stop = Yield for cyclists, so if I'm approaching a 4 way (no lights) stop in the 'burbs and think I can get through without stopping I'd rather keep my momentum going. If I do have to stop, the motor get me going again.
I used to ride in London UK, and it's all the stopping/starting that is so tiring. I can keep a steady cadence for ages, but getting going again after a dozen traffic lights is a pain.
@@ziploc2000 I hear ya. I typically handle the stops as a momentary stop where I don’t even put my feet down. I will tell you on the heavier bikes. It can be an issue with getting going again a lot of times. I had never noticed this on my trek bike, but it only weighs about the same as a flea. I actually kind of enjoyed getting down to it. Just to see if I can balance for a bit there.
I've seen pond turtles for the first time this year, supposedly they live in several local ponds here in Oregon, but this is the first time I've spotted them, sunbathing on logs in big groups.
Last year I saw my first Bald Eagle in the wild, perched on one of the pine trees visible from my house.
We have the pond turtles everywhere around here. The eagle, that was really cool to see that. Michelle was talking to a friend of hers and told her about it. She happen to be on the speakerphone. She said yes we had a family of them living on our farm. Kind of took the wind out of my sail. So I just told her, “ so what, my eagle can beat up your eagle.” lol. Thanks for watching.
Great information, thanks
Thanks Terry and thanks for watching. A bit of a spoiler alert. Thursday will be a video about what I see the biggest differences between what I have been writing and what I am doing some riding on now. Enjoy the rest of your day.
"That's a sharp-lookin' bike." Fact check: TRUE ✅ 🙂
I am really liking this bike more and more. Just returned from a pretty cool trip with it. Thanks for watching.
Blain, have you thought of doing a seat/saddle review? Comparing comfort, cost and weight?
Thanks Marcus. I have considered this, but it is such a personal choice when it comes to the seat. Typically I try to look for a smaller seat. Most folks seem to want a larger seat. I do try and share when I am trying a new one to let people know how they are. Thanks for the suggestion I may have to put some more thought into that.
IDK these new 1500w hubs with the 40amp controls have more torque then a bicycle chain and hub can handle, wish you could get them in a kit.
I like the hubs better because I had one midriver and the way I want to pedal and throttle up to speed means I broke a few chains. They can put too much power on the chain.
Hub tire change is no fun
I have never broken a chain in the thousands of miles. I have red mid drives. But I still carry a small piece of chain, chain breaker, and a master link. But I do here quite often how people are breaking chains. I’ve just never experienced it. Thanks for watching.
@@southernebiking your prob using a good chain then, most of my experience on any e-bike or scooter was one I recovered from trash.
@@Ro-Bucks I will say I always use a KMC chain specified for ebikes. I’m sure that would help quite a lot.
hub drives offer more security that you'll be able to get home if anything should happen to your chain or derailleur. I've had a derailleur twist itself out of shape while miles from home, with a hub drive I was able to throttle back home. with a mid drive I'd have been stranded
Thank you for watching Chuck. I hear this all the time and it’s really not a good argument to me. I have a master link and a chain breaker that way nothing laying in my toolbag. The other side of that debate would be that if I get a back tire, go flat, I can change it immediately. Not so much so with a hub drive. So they both have their pros and the cons.
@@southernebiking Flat Out prevents any flats... but nothing fixes a twisted deraillieur
@@chuckwolf9869 again, we can go back-and-forth on it. I don’t think either one is a dealbreaker, one way or the other.
One big advantage you left out for the mid drive is the ease of removing the rear wheel in the case of a flat rear tire, same as fixing a flat on a non e-bike, not so true on the rear hub drive.
Also the terrain in some areas of the country where a rider will encounter multiple steeper hills really wherever they go again like your BRP comment a hub motor would struggle there.
A mid drive setup also to limit issues things like chain rings, cassettes and even more with the chain itself should use better heavy duty quality components in the build and keeping such clean and lubed after each ride will also reduce maintenance cost.
For a mid drive I recommend keeping a new chain cut to the proper length in your toolkit just like you would keep patches or tire repair kits in case of a flat.
In the case of a chain snapping replacing the broken item with a new properly sized chain is a very quick and easy roadside repair.
Personally I think the advantages of mid drive outweigh the hub drives.
Thank you for watching Bill. I pretty much agree with everything you are saying. I will say that higher maintenance is the reason I’m starting to ride some hub drive now. If I had to have one bike and one bike only, it would guaranteed be a mid drive. But because I can have several bikes at this stage in my life, I am actually starting to ride Some hub drives on the rides my wife and I take together. That being said, I just now got back from some great mountain bike trails that there is no way I would want to be riding a hub drive on. Again, thanks for watching and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
If I were to get another bike, it would be a two wheel drive. A mid drive for the rear wheel, and a hub drive on the front.
Independent front wheel electronics such as 'Citizen' has.
Saw a U Tube with a Citizen kit link for $500 no battery & $700 with a battery. That & new 26" air forks that still allow a front basket for the controller & battery would be nice.
@@stevecumming6427 l have been following Mr. Citizen (Brian) for years. I used him as an example of what I would buy if I were in the market for another bike. He has a 2018 Rad Rover that he installed the Bolton (Area 13) upgrade motor in, and I did the upgrade as well following Brian's example on his video. If he were to offer a kit for a 20 inch bike, I might buy it from him (I still have the Rad Rover but don't hardly use it anymore). I bought a Magicycle Ocelot last year (20 inch wheels).
Not so sure, I would really want all that weight. That may be a spoiler alert for my next video. Lol. Thanks much for watching. Maybe I need to go to the next town over and check out some of his inventions. Lol.
Interesting but you left out 2 more possibilities at least me thinks. Could go with mid drive & a front or rear hub. The new thing is AWD with 2 hubs for steep hills & quick starts. A mid drive has no back up system if the vital chain breaks, puts more loads on a chain but works more like pedaling an acoustic bicycle. I want dual hub motors on separate controllers, batteries & throttles as backup & for use only when needed to avoid hazards & climb steep hills in all terrain. 2 hubs on 1 controller & PAS activated could be a bit like riding a bucking bronco.
Thanks Steve. I’ve not mess with a whole lot of all wheel drives. So it’s kind of hard for me to comment on them. And the thousands of miles I’ve traveled on Middrive I have never broke a chain. I also carry MasterLink a small piece of chain and a chain breaker with me takes a very little room and does not add any weight to speak of. Now if you find one that rides like a bronc, let me know. That’s the one I want to settle down onto. Lol thanks much for watching.
Mid-drive for me every time if I have a choice. That being said, if I liked everything else about a bike and it only came with a hub drive I'd try one. I would still want a torque sensor. I had to get a cadence sensor with my Bafang mid-drive on my recumbent trike and I don't like the feel.
See my Bafang has a cadence as well, and I have never noticed any issue. It actually operates more like a regular bike than most torque sensor bikes I have ridden be it a Middrive or hub drive. I did go ahead and turn it internally to know 20 tomorrow exactly my specs. Thanks for watching Joe.