Few tips, don't stress yourself when building, do research on frame against what battery you want to use, check what sort of motor power you want, bafang do mid drives from 240watts to 1000watts at 48v, if you go for a power build bbshd use a strong frame and good enduro type wheels and strong brakes, once you remove any existing bottom bracket it's fairly straightforward, the connection of wires are very simple.
Whatever you do, don't build a bike using this as an instruction to do it. I've been running a Bafang for 4 years and this is the worst build I've seen so far.
I love that you included all the hiccups in the process, this aligns with all my bike and auto projects. These kits are not guaranteed to fit every bike right out of the box and some left brained thinking is required. Thank you for this!
Totally agree. Need to warn potential DIY fitters that pedals, crank bolts and using the crank puller and bottom bracket can all be very difficult to remove. I went to the big bike retailer here in UK to help remove cross threaded crank and bottom bracket. It was worth it after many hours of massive force needed to remove bike parts. This seems to stem from the original bike builders not putting enough grease on these parts in initial assembly.
Ooh. I thought they put that tool, and a light in the kit, to make you believe that everything is in that kit you would ever need, and want, for the job, in order to make a sale, while the instructions in the kit requires an imagination.
Nice interesting video I always fit the throttle and display on the left side of the handle bar. I have fitted A lot of mid-drive motors for clients i 20 years Thanks for the video
Good Job!!👍 Im glad I bought someone else’s hard labor, trial and error DIY Bafang 500watt Mid-drive 29” Hyper Walmart conversion for $400. Seller did a good build and cable management. I simply don’t have your patience and skill to do a DIY mid-drive right.😅
Well done, I did the exact same 750W Mid drive conversion, my BB diameter was okay though, but I also could not fit the black collar, they say its not big deal. Given the BB length I also had to do spacers on the motor mount and some of the other improvisations, with longer hex bolts etc, "off to the hardware store". I have break sensors, I use the LHS one as a clutch instead of the shift sensor, but loved your inline install, very clever. as per @roncooke2188 I put the throttle on the LHS where the front shifter was, it works out well there. Today I replaced the rear cassette, mine is a 9 spd, there was awful cracking on 8th gear I could not fix it with adjustment, so if this manifests it is likely the cassette is worn out. Mine runs perfectly now it was definately the cassette :) Loved the vid all the best. Tim
Great job! Although I was about to pull the trigger on a Bafang kit, but couldn’t get a clear answer or anyone to contact from Bafang on what is the consequences of switching out a little 30 tooth chainring with that big O 42 tooth on 11x1. And after looking at the price of everything I’ll be out over $1k all in. Started looking at big name factory bikes and the prices have come down a lot! In the low $2k range I can get a new E mountain bike with new geometry like slack head tube angle, thru axle and hydraulic brakes, and no unsightly cables wrapped up everywhere. Overall It may be still cheaper to go with the conversion kit but I think I’ll save up a little more cash now and opp for a new e mountain bike.
Great tips in this, I don't bother with the shifter or brake sensor. Just do a gentle half cycle on flat or down, or cycle a bit faster when shifting, so the motor isn't under load. When shifting uphill you need to click to zero, not a big deal.
Thing about bafang, they are direct drive motors and only one model has torque sensor so you are not going to pedal enough to not put load on it, the torque alone is enough to cause damage on chain and cassette, the only way to do a shift effectively is to stop peddling with the cut off and let the motor travel through because the motor doesn't stop right away after you stop peddling for a few seconds, only in the programming can you stop this. I have three bbshd ebike builds, i was destroying my cassette and chains if i didn't use a cut off and pause peddling between shifts.
You did a great job working out all the issues and getting it going. I do have to say this is Definitely the wrong bike frame for these kits though. Others have installed these in a couple hours into 68 mm bracket and without the wide tire frame the sprocket won't hit the rear frame. Also this shouldn't be used with a 10 speed bike. But like I said. Good job making it work!
Fatties are great bikes to do this to. Regular bicycles in general are not designed for this. After the chain wears out, I might remove some sprockets, and space out the cassette to run a thicker chain. For now, it works great the way it is. One time so far, I was going down a hill very fast, started coasting over bumps, and the chain skipped off the front sprocket when I started driving it again. Probably could use more chain tension, or a different front sprocket. My only issue so far.
@@RustBeltAuto. Quick response. Usually it is put on the left because you have gotten rid of your front derailleur freeing up your left hand for changing power levels. Also if you want a better chain line you should get a Lekkie chainring to improve your chain line. Lekkie Onenut is nice to secure the motor.
@@MumfordJim the chain line will remain the same. It is as close to the chainstay as I can get it, and 2 less teeth will not be substantial enough to make a difference. Also, if you have been riding motorcycles, and wheelers as long as I have, putting a throttle on the left would just feel as wrong as driving on the left side of the road.
I also installed this engine for myself, but after using it for a year, I can say for sure that there will be problems with the chain and cassette, so I recommend installing Alfine 8 with a reinforced chain, I also recommend ordering a 500c display. 4000km +, ok
@@RustBeltAuto I have an aggressive driving style. I like to ride hills or go fast, the main problem was always that the chain broke And of course the cassette wore out (or the Diore XT gear shifter bent) when I installed a planetary gear shifter (Alfine 8) everything became normal But the problems with the chain appeared again now I put one SRAM speed chain and it holds up quite well, also the chain tensioner must be taken into account, all this combined now withstands extreme loads. I am happy with my bike, I have accelerated my bike to 80 km/h and climbed big mountains and nothing has broken, I think such things should have a lot of strength reserve. My English is not native, sorry for mistakes) I will also add that it is not so expensive, but the Alpine 8 costs about $250-300 and the chain is $30, but this modification will withstand this engine
Nice I built a 29”r with a BBSHD you need a Lekkie 42 tooth with the offset works great it will correct your chain offset with the rear cassette with 160 NM of torque my bike rips
I looked into that, and figured especially for the price, it will not make much of a difference, and would rather just loose a gear. That sprocket will probably still hit my chainstay if I do not shim it out as well.
@@RustBeltAuto you don't need off set from your chainline...u already added washers to offset it from hitting your frame... you get a small 32...YOU DON'T NEED OFF SET.. you need the correct chain line ..instead of offsetting it with washers making your rear large gear unseable...u know ..1+1=2
You definitely need the brake cable cutoff system installed. Not much fun braking when your motor is full on at 45kph. My rear brake cutoff failed and I had to use the front brake first, to cutoff the motor, before applying the rear (which still worked) until I could get it replaced.
Good video. I believe they sell a 73mm version of the Bafang, that is what you needed instead of the 68mm version. Also, you could have flipped the speed sensor the other direction so that the wire flows a little better.
The same motors are listed as 68-73mm. They are "universal". Unfortunately, I could not find a press in shell in 68mm, so I made up the 5mm difference with aluminum tape.
If you want to use the largest cog in the rear, you might want to think about a chain guide. The are low cost (~20 $) and should prevent the chain from coming off the (front) chain ring. They were originally designed to prevent chain slap on single chain ring acoustic bikes, but work ok on ebikes when the chainline is off.
@@RustBeltAuto That's very likely. A chain guide will force a sideways bend on your chain, but it's very little. I've never even had a master link pop off, and they would be the first to go. However, your chain angle might be more steep. If you ever wished you had that highest tooth count gear, it could be useful, otherwise forget I mentioned it.
It's that ultra cynical, pissed off at the world, stereotypical American accent voice your real voice or put on to endear yourself to your audience... Great video. Thanks.😊
@@RustBeltAuto I live back in Australia now but I lived in Duluth in the early 2000s, I'm amazed I didn't recognise the accent. I miss your beautiful state, great fishing, winter fun and awesome people.... Again, thanks for the video.😁
Grease? There is a lot of plastic in there. Can you be more specific as to what type of grease you intend to use? Furthermore, I don't think it will get quieter over the humming of those studded tires.
@@RustBeltAuto Most people recommend Mobilgrease 28 for the secondary (drive side) gearing in the BBSHD and BBS02 motors. I don't think it makes a lot of difference for the noise, but it's supposed to prevent damage in the case of water ingress. I also run studded tires in winter, they are extremely loud and I certainly can't hear the motor over that noise, with grease or without. ;-)
Good video for someone wanting to fit these. They arent compatible with 12 speed cassettes because the chain is too narrow for the front sprocket, i think thats your jumping issue and why you cant use the lowest gear.
I did notice that some of the aftermarket sprockets look to have deeper teeth. Someday I may space out the cassette, and use less sprockets for a wider chain. Someone said I should do that.
@@Tomas-ml9nv don't much matter really. I only use like 7 of them mostly. The three smallest ones just burn up my battery, and goes the same speed, unless I pedal. Maybe because it's only 36v. The biggest gear on this can really crawl up steep hills. So I suppose it depends on the size of the sprockets more than anything. Less sprockets on your cassette will let you use a beefier chain too.
I have my throttle on the left side. It's not bad at all.. theres just more room it makes sense. Also, the shift sensor isn't needed. I shift with the throttle applied but very little. There's no issue. I climb hills , so cutting the motor while climbing doesn't work for me.
You had nothing but trouble with this install, fortunatley for you, you were knowledgeable enough to get through the hurdles… one question my brake cable is between the frame & the motor & it’s stopping my rear brake from working any suggestions?
10,000 km and no broken chain , Spokes I have had some trouble with them . I have the 02 750w, better with a 7 speed , a tyerap for the chain, don't need the shift sensor, Stay away from the tire with the wires.
I would never install the GearSensor like that, i would fix it at the frame further at the front, and i always put the cables inside the frame, it usually cut the signal cable and solder it back again after runnning it thru the frame. The Speedsensor should not point upwards but downwards in that way it is better protected
@@JanRossil-v9q ya. The shift sensor shits off the motor, when I go over big bumps. Thinking about removing it. Also figured the speed sensor could get hit easier if it is facing down.
@@guilhermefeder7435 I have over 1200 miles on it now. The only thing I changed out was a 42t offset chainring with narrow wide teeth from ebay, because my chain kept falling off with the steel sprocket that came with the kit. Havn't had a problem since.
@@alienplaysyt3730 it depends. Most people get the 52 volt motor. The higher the amp hour battery the better. There are many different kinds. I got lower volt motor, because I had a battery already. Sub reddit r/ebikes, might be a big help for you. They can answer all kinds of questions for you.
There is nothing more to adapt. I could remove a gear, and use a spacer, but the result would be the same. The front sprocket is the smallest one with an offset that comes with the kit. I could spend money on one that is 2 teeth smaller, but it would be offset in the same location. It is as close to the chainstay as i can get it. The chain will also last longer if the chainline is straight.
@@วิชญ์ภาสจรสโรจน์กุล-ป7ศ ooh. You mean for the battery? I'm an auto tech, and the delfi waterproof connector that I used is way better than anything on these bikes.
@@RustBeltAuto depending on the other motor style, it should take a 48v battery with a 48v controller or a dual voltage controller. I have a 250W front MXUS & run it on the same "dolphin" battery with a dual voltage controller and swap between 36v & 48v batteries - 48V = faster😁
Hey bro I commented on your video that u changed a knuckle bushing on a Hyundai I have the same problem can u give me your shop address so I can come by and u fix my car same problem
This has to be a joke, the sheer lack of knowledge and stupid shortcuts taken is shocking. The brake levers are supplied so the motor doesn't accidentally get kicked in while you are braking which can potentially cause a very serious accident. Your first mistake was not checking compatibility properly, that bike is not suited for the kit you bought, you need the other kit they sell that is for the wider crank tube.
@@LarkspeedNL what kit? Do you have a part number? Been riding motorcycles, and dirt bikes for over 100k miles, and engine does not shut off when you hit the brakes. If you want to drive a car, or a bike with the gas, and brakes at the same time, you should probably get a lifetime bus pass, and take the bus. I will take that chance, and leave it off. If you want that feature, do it.
You sir are a treasure! Thank you so much for taking the effort to do such an in-depth and info-packed video!!!
Excellent job on the video and the content, you have assisted many in the two-wheel Community thank you
This really give me a very clear guidelines for turn a bike to good E-bike
Few tips, don't stress yourself when building, do research on frame against what battery you want to use, check what sort of motor power you want, bafang do mid drives from 240watts to 1000watts at 48v, if you go for a power build bbshd use a strong frame and good enduro type wheels and strong brakes, once you remove any existing bottom bracket it's fairly straightforward, the connection of wires are very simple.
Whatever you do, don't build a bike using this as an instruction to do it. I've been running a Bafang for 4 years and this is the worst build I've seen so far.
A true work of art, well done sir. I've got a rear hub DIY but I enjoy watching people fit mid drives here and there.
I love that you included all the hiccups in the process, this aligns with all my bike and auto projects. These kits are not guaranteed to fit every bike right out of the box and some left brained thinking is required. Thank you for this!
Totally agree. Need to warn potential DIY fitters that pedals, crank bolts and using the crank puller and bottom bracket can all be very difficult to remove. I went to the big bike retailer here in UK to help remove cross threaded crank and bottom bracket. It was worth it after many hours of massive force needed to remove bike parts. This seems to stem from the original bike builders not putting enough grease on these parts in initial assembly.
Awesome. Those Bafang motors are great. That tool in the kit is for removing the tapered crank arms. That was a lot of customizing!
Ooh. I thought they put that tool, and a light in the kit, to make you believe that everything is in that kit you would ever need, and want, for the job, in order to make a sale, while the instructions in the kit requires an imagination.
Nice interesting video I always fit the throttle and display on the left side of the handle bar. I have fitted A lot of mid-drive motors for clients i 20 years Thanks for the video
If I wasn't born on a wheeler, and dirtbikes, and motorcycles, I may put it on the left too. Just seems weird to me.
Good Job!!👍 Im glad I bought someone else’s hard labor, trial and error DIY Bafang 500watt Mid-drive 29” Hyper Walmart conversion for $400. Seller did a good build and cable management. I simply don’t have your patience and skill to do a DIY mid-drive right.😅
My persistence overrides patients.
I can also vouch for the Bafang mid-drive, also this install vid points out key elements very well.
Hey. I have that same orange stand. It really is a work horse. Love that I picked it up so cheap to.
My bike has the same exact bottom bracket, and I want to do the same exact conversion, thank you so much for this video, you have helped me a ton.
Great video! Thanks for taking time to explain the details. I've built up a few Bafang ebikes and love them. Happy trails!
Good video for installing a Bafang kit.
I'm about to install a BBS01 on my Fuse but it have a normal bottom bracket 68 mm.
Thanks. Hope it helps.
Well done, I did the exact same 750W Mid drive conversion, my BB diameter was okay though, but I also could not fit the black collar, they say its not big deal. Given the BB length I also had to do spacers on the motor mount and some of the other improvisations, with longer hex bolts etc, "off to the hardware store". I have break sensors, I use the LHS one as a clutch instead of the shift sensor, but loved your inline install, very clever. as per @roncooke2188 I put the throttle on the LHS where the front shifter was, it works out well there.
Today I replaced the rear cassette, mine is a 9 spd, there was awful cracking on 8th gear I could not fix it with adjustment, so if this manifests it is likely the cassette is worn out. Mine runs perfectly now it was definately the cassette :)
Loved the vid all the best. Tim
Great job!
Although I was about to pull the trigger on a Bafang kit, but couldn’t get a clear answer or anyone to contact from Bafang on what is the consequences of switching out a little 30 tooth chainring with that big O 42 tooth on 11x1.
And after looking at the price of everything I’ll be out over $1k all in.
Started looking at big name factory bikes and the prices have come down a lot! In the low $2k range I can get a new E mountain bike with new geometry like slack head tube angle, thru axle and hydraulic brakes, and no unsightly cables wrapped up everywhere.
Overall It may be still cheaper to go with the conversion kit but I think I’ll save up a little more cash now and opp for a new e mountain bike.
Thanks for the time and effort you put into filming this. Awesome. I have a Hardrock 29er I want to do this conversion on.
really enjoyed this tutorial, delivered in classic slippers too!
Great learning. Way beyond must easy to DYI Bafang motor installment
Great tips in this, I don't bother with the shifter or brake sensor. Just do a gentle half cycle on flat or down, or cycle a bit faster when shifting, so the motor isn't under load. When shifting uphill you need to click to zero, not a big deal.
Thing about bafang, they are direct drive motors and only one model has torque sensor so you are not going to pedal enough to not put load on it, the torque alone is enough to cause damage on chain and cassette, the only way to do a shift effectively is to stop peddling with the cut off and let the motor travel through because the motor doesn't stop right away after you stop peddling for a few seconds, only in the programming can you stop this. I have three bbshd ebike builds, i was destroying my cassette and chains if i didn't use a cut off and pause peddling between shifts.
Btw peddling harder doesn't stop load, it only adds to it surely.
@@mikethomas6051 if i in pas 3 and cycle at a certain speed the motors starts to cut off and no watts being used
@@mikethomas6051 cycling 3 years without any issue
@@magzire you aren't using a bbshd then ?
Great video, you sound like my former Minnesota governor, Jesse Ventura!
@@MrOscarLong ya, we Minnesotan.
You Betcha! I literally found this video on accident!
@@MrOscarLong I like accidents.
I really wanted the mid drive but I wasn’t confident about how it would fit. I see now my concerns were well founded😂😂
You did a great job working out all the issues and getting it going. I do have to say this is Definitely the wrong bike frame for these kits though. Others have installed these in a couple hours into 68 mm bracket and without the wide tire frame the sprocket won't hit the rear frame. Also this shouldn't be used with a 10 speed bike. But like I said. Good job making it work!
Fatties are great bikes to do this to. Regular bicycles in general are not designed for this. After the chain wears out, I might remove some sprockets, and space out the cassette to run a thicker chain. For now, it works great the way it is. One time so far, I was going down a hill very fast, started coasting over bumps, and the chain skipped off the front sprocket when I started driving it again. Probably could use more chain tension, or a different front sprocket. My only issue so far.
Ain't nobody gonna steal that rare earth magnet
It was attatched to an industructable spoke.
Display is generally on the left side. Throttle can go on either side.
Ya. It's all a matter of opinion.
@@RustBeltAuto. Quick response. Usually it is put on the left because you have gotten rid of your front derailleur freeing up your left hand for changing power levels.
Also if you want a better chain line you should get a Lekkie chainring to improve your chain line. Lekkie Onenut is nice to secure the motor.
@@MumfordJim the chain line will remain the same. It is as close to the chainstay as I can get it, and 2 less teeth will not be substantial enough to make a difference. Also, if you have been riding motorcycles, and wheelers as long as I have, putting a throttle on the left would just feel as wrong as driving on the left side of the road.
I looooove my Bafang Rockhopper. You might prefer the 7 speed cassette with thicker chain when that one wears out at about 1500 km.
Sounds like a good idea, thanks!
I also installed this engine for myself, but after using it for a year, I can say for sure that there will be problems with the chain and cassette, so I recommend installing Alfine 8 with a reinforced chain, I also recommend ordering a 500c display. 4000km +, ok
Sounds expensive. What happened to the cassette? I can imagine the chain being a problem. It's really thin.
@@RustBeltAuto I have an aggressive driving style. I like to ride hills or go fast, the main problem was always that the chain broke And of course the cassette wore out (or the Diore XT gear shifter bent) when I installed a planetary gear shifter (Alfine 8) everything became normal But the problems with the chain appeared again now I put one SRAM speed chain and it holds up quite well, also the chain tensioner must be taken into account, all this combined now withstands extreme loads. I am happy with my bike, I have accelerated my bike to 80 km/h and climbed big mountains and nothing has broken, I think such things should have a lot of strength reserve. My English is not native, sorry for mistakes) I will also add that it is not so expensive, but the Alpine 8 costs about $250-300 and the chain is $30, but this modification will withstand this engine
@@yurakryvets thank you!
I love all those trade tips/ DIY things 👍
So calm in the face of adversity !
Nice I built a 29”r with a BBSHD you need a Lekkie 42 tooth with the offset works great it will correct your chain offset with the rear cassette with 160 NM of torque my bike rips
I looked into that, and figured especially for the price, it will not make much of a difference, and would rather just loose a gear. That sprocket will probably still hit my chainstay if I do not shim it out as well.
@@RustBeltAuto get a 32 tooth.. plenty of clearance. And can put back to correct chain line...
@@jasonkroll2735 a 32 tooth has no offset 😖
@@RustBeltAuto you don't need off set from your chainline...u already added washers to offset it from hitting your frame... you get a small 32...YOU DON'T NEED OFF SET.. you need the correct chain line ..instead of offsetting it with washers making your rear large gear unseable...u know ..1+1=2
@@jasonkroll2735 enen though i used washers, it is still offset, and the chain line is still off, because I need more offset. 🤨
Thanks brother I ended up having to hook up one brake sensor
Why?
You definitely need the brake cable cutoff system installed. Not much fun braking when your motor is full on at 45kph. My rear brake cutoff failed and I had to use the front brake first, to cutoff the motor, before applying the rear (which still worked) until I could get it replaced.
@@user-rl4ji5ne4o agreed. However, I live dangerously, and cautiously, if there is such a thing.
@@RustBeltAuto Calculated risks :)
Good video. I believe they sell a 73mm version of the Bafang, that is what you needed instead of the 68mm version. Also, you could have flipped the speed sensor the other direction so that the wire flows a little better.
The same motors are listed as 68-73mm. They are "universal". Unfortunately, I could not find a press in shell in 68mm, so I made up the 5mm difference with aluminum tape.
No, there is no 73mm motor, i own 3 bbshd models, its 68mm but they will fit 73mm bb
You can get a little bit more speed out of it by moving the sensor magnets as far out as you can get them
@@Rob337_aka_CancelProof that makes no sense. The outside diameter of the tire makes everything inside of it the same rpm.
If you want to use the largest cog in the rear, you might want to think about a chain guide. The are low cost (~20 $) and should prevent the chain from coming off the (front) chain ring. They were originally designed to prevent chain slap on single chain ring acoustic bikes, but work ok on ebikes when the chainline is off.
I think my chain will last longer if I don't use it.
@@RustBeltAuto That's very likely. A chain guide will force a sideways bend on your chain, but it's very little. I've never even had a master link pop off, and they would be the first to go. However, your chain angle might be more steep. If you ever wished you had that highest tooth count gear, it could be useful, otherwise forget I mentioned it.
It's that ultra cynical, pissed off at the world, stereotypical American accent voice your real voice or put on to endear yourself to your audience... Great video. Thanks.😊
Around these parts, we call it Minnesota nice. Just keeping it real.
@@RustBeltAuto I live back in Australia now but I lived in Duluth in the early 2000s, I'm amazed I didn't recognise the accent. I miss your beautiful state, great fishing, winter fun and awesome people.... Again, thanks for the video.😁
@@bikepacker9850 welcome.
Fill the gearhousing with grease, and you'll get a much quieter experience. They put grease there from the factory, but it's not enough.
Grease? There is a lot of plastic in there. Can you be more specific as to what type of grease you intend to use? Furthermore, I don't think it will get quieter over the humming of those studded tires.
@@RustBeltAuto Most people recommend Mobilgrease 28 for the secondary (drive side) gearing in the BBSHD and BBS02 motors. I don't think it makes a lot of difference for the noise, but it's supposed to prevent damage in the case of water ingress.
I also run studded tires in winter, they are extremely loud and I certainly can't hear the motor over that noise, with grease or without. ;-)
@@heraldreichel1971 thanks!
Thank you for the video. It helped my planning a lot.
😁
Good video for someone wanting to fit these. They arent compatible with 12 speed cassettes because the chain is too narrow for the front sprocket, i think thats your jumping issue and why you cant use the lowest gear.
I did notice that some of the aftermarket sprockets look to have deeper teeth. Someday I may space out the cassette, and use less sprockets for a wider chain. Someone said I should do that.
How many speed cassette should I look for if I'm buying a buy to put on a bbshd?
@@Tomas-ml9nv 11 or less.
@@Tomas-ml9nv don't much matter really. I only use like 7 of them mostly. The three smallest ones just burn up my battery, and goes the same speed, unless I pedal. Maybe because it's only 36v. The biggest gear on this can really crawl up steep hills. So I suppose it depends on the size of the sprockets more than anything. Less sprockets on your cassette will let you use a beefier chain too.
I have my throttle on the left side. It's not bad at all.. theres just more room it makes sense. Also, the shift sensor isn't needed. I shift with the throttle applied but very little. There's no issue. I climb hills , so cutting the motor while climbing doesn't work for me.
You had nothing but trouble with this install, fortunatley for you, you were knowledgeable enough to get through the hurdles… one question my brake cable is between the frame & the motor & it’s stopping my rear brake from working any suggestions?
Either it is pinched, or the bend is too sharp.
Really helpful vid thx 🙏 . Best wishes from Uk 😊
Best wishes from the armpit of Minnesota.
Great video, I just finished my second build.😊. I really like your bike,.good job. Oh fyi I’ve got old “Granny carpets “ my Mancave also 👍
Cheap used wool carpet on concrete is best 😁
i want this guy to be my mechanic
This was a great video! Thank you.
@@atothezeezee 😁
10,000 km and no broken chain , Spokes I have had some trouble with them . I have the 02 750w, better with a 7 speed , a tyerap for the chain, don't need the shift sensor,
Stay away from the tire with the wires.
A Lekkie 36 tooth bling chainring should sort your chain line out, without hitting anything.
@@darkiee69 those are flat. My chainline would be worse.
Awesome video ❤❤❤❤
27:15 FYI, that's low gear, not high gear, for climbing.
@@joshuaanothereraseddad ya. High numerical ratio. I mix them up all the time. Low is slow, is the way.
Might need to get a narrow wide chain ring
@@Emtbtoday Tend to agree now. My chain has come off about a half dozen times in the last 1k miles.
I wanna be a good guesser like you. Thanks.
I would never install the GearSensor like that, i would fix it at the frame further at the front, and i always put the cables inside the frame, it usually cut the signal cable and solder it back again after runnning it thru the frame. The Speedsensor should not point upwards but downwards in that way it is better protected
@@JanRossil-v9q ya. The shift sensor shits off the motor, when I go over big bumps. Thinking about removing it. Also figured the speed sensor could get hit easier if it is facing down.
Good job! I'm planning on buying a Bafang motor to mount on my bike. Have you been able to test the motor? Is it worth buying?
@@guilhermefeder7435 I have over 1200 miles on it now. The only thing I changed out was a 42t offset chainring with narrow wide teeth from ebay, because my chain kept falling off with the steel sprocket that came with the kit. Havn't had a problem since.
@@RustBeltAuto How cool! I'm looking forward to buying and installing the engine on my bike. Thanks for answering my questions. Hugs from Brazil🇧🇷
Very Impressive, NICE RIDE.
Nice video Kermit!
@@jamesstrength5405 thanks Fozzie!
🤣🤣🤣
Raymond? Are you Ray Barone? You sound like him. Either that or his cousin Gerrard.
Who dat?
Is it just me or am I hearing peter griffin? 😂
No offense i listened to the end cause i want to build my own as well.
You can get a headlight plate to hide most of that wiring
Maybe because i am left handed it seems fine to me, although on my own ebikes i have throttle on the right also
I love the video, I’ve been trying to find battery cells for the actual bafang battery that are good reliable, any recommendations?
Not really. Mine are Chinese. 🔥
@@RustBeltAuto ohhh ok ok thank you! Sorry one more question, what size batteries would I need to find for this?
@@alienplaysyt3730 it depends. Most people get the 52 volt motor. The higher the amp hour battery the better. There are many different kinds. I got lower volt motor, because I had a battery already. Sub reddit r/ebikes, might be a big help for you. They can answer all kinds of questions for you.
looks like you had to do alot of modification , the kits should be made to fit witout any you would think
It depends.
Great job
What u think about rear suspension bike for e bike kit conversion?
@@beyondreamsandmind1679 never thought about it.
I have a question. When out in public would you say it’s easy for someone to steal parts like the motor and display?
The display, and battery ya. I got the cheapest display, and take the battery with me.
Where do you get that bike 🚲 stand
Ebay
That looks like Fort Custer bike trail?
Battle creek. Saint paul.
You are the best!!
now this, this is epic
this is almost great but 25:27 why you don’t find some adaptor that includes it this kit at 2:40 and 0:39
There is nothing more to adapt. I could remove a gear, and use a spacer, but the result would be the same. The front sprocket is the smallest one with an offset that comes with the kit. I could spend money on one that is 2 teeth smaller, but it would be offset in the same location. It is as close to the chainstay as i can get it. The chain will also last longer if the chainline is straight.
I mean electrical connectors not gears
@@วิชญ์ภาสจรสโรจน์กุล-ป7ศ ooh. You mean for the battery? I'm an auto tech, and the delfi waterproof connector that I used is way better than anything on these bikes.
11:22 why not put the display on the left so you can I have a little more room for your shifter without hitting your throttle
@@Rob337_aka_CancelProof right side, left brain?
48v man, you missed a tick...✌
@@facelessvaper had to do 36v. It was the only motor for my other bike I could find that wasn't black. It works just fine.
@@RustBeltAuto depending on the other motor style, it should take a 48v battery with a 48v controller or a dual voltage controller. I have a 250W front MXUS & run it on the same "dolphin" battery with a dual voltage controller and swap between 36v & 48v batteries - 48V = faster😁
@facelessvaper I did this first. Not a whole lotta views on the thing. Love it just the same.
ua-cam.com/video/owOQwCi2jPs/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared.
good video！
Thank you!
Awesome
YO...HOW MANY DAYS AND TRIPS TO THE STORES DID THIS TAKE? NICE JOB AND HAVE FUN. OK, BYE
Don't worry. The government will find a way to charge me for that.
🤣@@RustBeltAuto
@@hahner4715 if I'm lucky, they will charge me doubly, and twice.
I love you❤😊
I'm scared 🥴
Sounds a bit like Jesse Ventura 🙂
@@robjackson_CDXL ya. We are both from Minnesota.
Mine is the greatest lol but this one nice too
TAKE care of you.man😅
Hey bro I commented on your video that u changed a knuckle bushing on a Hyundai I have the same problem can u give me your shop address so I can come by and u fix my car same problem
You're going to need a rocket ship. I live in outer space.
@@RustBeltAutoRick…..
OK BYE...!
This has to be a joke, the sheer lack of knowledge and stupid shortcuts taken is shocking. The brake levers are supplied so the motor doesn't accidentally get kicked in while you are braking which can potentially cause a very serious accident.
Your first mistake was not checking compatibility properly, that bike is not suited for the kit you bought, you need the other kit they sell that is for the wider crank tube.
@@LarkspeedNL what kit? Do you have a part number? Been riding motorcycles, and dirt bikes for over 100k miles, and engine does not shut off when you hit the brakes. If you want to drive a car, or a bike with the gas, and brakes at the same time, you should probably get a lifetime bus pass, and take the bus. I will take that chance, and leave it off. If you want that feature, do it.