How To: Upgrade to a Smart RV Converter Charger
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Installation of a new converter/charger. Your RV batteries will last longer and charge faster with this RV Smart Converter/Charger. It has multi stage charging and will not over charge your battery. This DIY upgrade is not difficult and is made as a direct replacement for the stock unit. Watch me do it.
Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger for Lead Acid Batteries (Affiliate link)
amzn.to/2PkmQCn
UPDATE (10/2019) - I've upgraded to Lithium Batteries and replaced the converter/inverter charger shown in the video to a Lithium battery compatible version of the same charger. Here's a link to the one I purchased and installed:
Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger for Lithium (including LiFePO4) batteries:
www.ltdrvparts...
Got questions? Click below to learn more about this upgrade
www.rvwithtito...
Watch the unboxing video
• Smarter Faster RV Batt...
DISCLAIMER
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.
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Thanks! It freaks Melissa out seeing the RV all torn apart and disassembled. Somehow it always comes back together better than before though...like Steve Austin.
That thing looked so intimidating. You just dumbed it down so well. Thank you!!!!!
Thanks for this video Brian. Got me thinking so did some research on my current charger and discovered I needed an upgrade. Just ordered a Progressive Dynamics PD9245C converter/charger for my rig and can't wait to get it installed.
USA4US. We really enjoy your kind words (here and on rvtravel). Thanks! I've put so much into my RV, I can't imagine ever putting it up for sale. By the way it's a Four Winds 31C (virtually identical layout as the tioga).
thanks, good comment, I unhook the postive when I do desulphate treatment..also thanks for sharing Alfred with us,,great idea!
You make it look so easy? I know you like to tinker and when your Tioga 31m comes up for sale, remember to say "fully upgraded". When the geeks compliment, you have become an audience favorite.
Totally addicted to your videos
Very good video. All the videos I’ve seen and there have been many, seem to skip one or more steps. Probably to cut down on the length of the video. For instance, when I replaced my unit yesterday, on the right side behind the fuse board, i have a red cable, a green cable and a bare copper cable. I think the red cable goes in the Batt POS+ terminal but I haven’t got a clue where the green and bare copper wires go. On the left side, I have three circuit breakers. There is a black wire that goes in one of the circuit breakers. I removed a black wire when I removed the old unit. However, there is another black wire that looks like it was attached to the circuit breaker at one time next to the terminal where the new black wire is to be installed. I’m not sure which one should be inserted into the terminal. The old unit was a Magnetek Model 6332 Series 6300A. I have a 1994 Roadtrek Dodge 190 Versatile.
So I just ordered one and was surfing around for vids and wouldnt ya know it? Brian has me covered..lol
Sweet! The install is very straight forward with pretty detailed instructions. Good luck!
Thank you so much for saving me from a huge mistake. I'm going to contact the seller and see if it's to late to return it. I had no idea this unit and everything plugged into it is useless as soon as you disconnect from shore power to go camping.
Why charge the battery bank if nothing runs off of it?
Damn I have to start from scratch
+Teri Thomas Hold on a sec. Your battery is still connected to the 12 volt distribution panel. So when you are not connected to shore power, your battery will power your 12 volt equipment. The only the piece that doesn't work is the converter/charger which charges your batteries and provides 12 volt power to the distribution panel only when hooked up to shore power. Hope that helps.
"The only the piece that doesn't work is the converter/charger which charges your batteries and provides 12 volt power to the distribution panel only when hooked up to shore power."
And the microwave, some TV's, all your AC outlets, and the air conditioner. (Unless you have a generator then all of these will work too. Right Brian?
You have the best video's around. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything in detail.
Thanks George for the feedback. I really appreciate it!
Awesome video Brian! We'd rate it as your best so far, if not for the fact that Melissa isn't in it. ;-)
Hey Brian thanks for the content, did the converter charger work for you when you upgraded to lithium? Thanks for your time
Hey Brian great video as always. Does your 4600 boost to 14.6 or 14.4 volts, was that a typo? What does your trimetric read in boost are you getting full voltage from your converter to your batt's. I have the PD-9200 and I am only getting 14.2 volts to my batt's during boost according to my trimetric TM2030. I may need to add larger wire from my converter to my Batt bank.
I wish we could adjust these converters to output what we wanted, most lead acid MFG's recommend 14.8 during boost or bulk charging. I think PD limits us to AGM batt levels of 14.4 incase someone doesn't know what they have.
PD say's the 4600 has a equalization mode, every 21 hours the batt's boost to 14.4 for 15 min during storage mode.
Well thanks again for all your videos they have been very helpful to me in the past. I am installing my solar panels after Vacation next week, We are headed over to the Green side near you. We will try to bring some of the sunshine from our side that your wife loves your direction.
Tracy sorry for the long reply lol.
You're right. It's a typo. It only boosts up to 14.4. I have checked it and 14.4 is going to my batteries. I primarily charge from my solar charge controller though which I have set to 14.7.
Thanks for this video, was very useful to me changing my converter today!
Another great video! Your explanations and demonstrations are very easy to follow. Question: If you have a 4-stage charging mechanism built into your solar charge controller, and if you were to isolate the shore power convertor so that is does NOT charge your batteries, is there any other benefit in upgrading a stock, 1-stage converter? thanks!
+Dixon Pok The solar charge controller and converter/charger are separate from each other. The 4-stage solar charge controller is only used when charging from solar (no shore power). When shore power (or generator) is connected, the converter/charger takes over. Therefore, the converter/charger replaced in the video adds multi-stage charging capabilities when in shore power/generator mode only. Thanks for the comment. Your question is a bit unclear to me, but I hope this helps point you towards an answer.
I have the same question. I did this upgrade to my 7300 converter charger. Adding renogy 200w kit. How does the solar know not to charge when your plugged in?
This is very helpful, thank you so much!! You have a great personality :)
Getting ready to install a solar system in my 1994 Fleetwood Jamboree. I have a Paralax series 7300Converter/Charger. Going to wire a Renogy Inverter 3000W into a Go Power Transfer switch then to the Converter/Charger! Should I upgrade my Converter/Charger?
My 2000 model probably needs an upgrade but I have a 1 year old $400 AGM and I know I’ll be switching over to lithium some years in the future. I hate to do this job twice and spend twice as much. Are there chargers that are programmable or will work with either AGM or lithium? Thanks in advance. Love your videos!
I enjoy all your video, I have question regarding fuses, seems like u have most 15amp fuses along those slots would that apply to Parallax Power supply 8355 converter/charger or unless most converter does Tito?
Nice video and helpful as I am considering doing the same. A couple of questions, I am wondering in doing this upgrade why you did not relocate the new converter closer to the batteries? Also I am curious what the difference in charging time from the old power converter to the new? Thanks, Bruce
Thanks that was helpful, but commentary on step by step would be helpful.
The step-by-step instructions that come with these units are very detailed.
hey great video, I heard there is from time to time some 15,5 V needed, like sulphate removal....
For lead acid batteries, there is also an equalization stage (the fourth stage) which boost voltage up to 15.5 to equalize the cells and desulphate. It can be set to be done automatically or manually. The high voltage may damage some electronics, so I recommend setting it to manual so that you can disable power to sensitive electronics first.
Hi Brian and Melissa. We are new to RV and I just watched another video of yours where you upgraded your charge controller. You plugged in your 30 amp plug into a 30 amp receptacle and you said to turn off the converter/charger. What is your converter/charger connected to, a 120V breaker? Thanks
Good video, very thorough (you made it look easier than I'm sure it is). Question: My 2004 Class A has a 55 amp converter, but no inverter. I'd like to upgrade the converter and install an inverter as well, but do I need one? If so, do you know of any "combo" units on the market?
Inverters convert 12v DC to 120V AC power and are not typically standard equipment for RVs. If you mostly plug into shore power in an RV park, you won't have much need for an inverter. If you plan to power your RV for extended periods from your battery bank (instead of a generator), then an inverter is what you will need. And yes, there are combo units. Search for an "inverter/charger". I don't think those units can be easily swapped out with your existing converter/charger though. Sorry, but I don't have any experience with those. You can, however, check out my inverter install video if you're interested (ua-cam.com/video/gm4NeZCQyvY/v-deo.html). Thanks for the question!
Tito, I see your converter was a 7355 on this upgrade, my converter was a 6300 I think and was retrofitted to a 7345 will this upgrade . Will this smart converter work for me?
thanks once again. i questioned the difference of this new unit u have, as opposed to the one u removed. This video answers the question. ... New question is, does this smart charger work only when plugged into Shore... and Not from from your Solar Array?) ... my guess is Yes, but please tell me. Thanks again.
+koollee You are correct. It only works when on shore power or onboard generator. The solar charge controller takes charge of battery charging when on solar.
RVwithTito So I wire all my DC lights, fans, Usb ports to this, while charging my battery, but when I disconnect from shore power and use my fully use my fully charged batteries..I can't use any of the equipment plugged into it?
Great video! does the smart charger equalize as well?
No. That unit does not have an equalize mode.
Great Video,
Would you know? I have a parallax model 7345 that burnt out and replaced with 45 RU.
I would like to go to battle born lithium batteries what would be a direct replacement for the unit.
Here's the one I used: www.ltdrvparts.com/PROGRESSIVE-DYNAMICS-55-AMP-LITHIUM-CONVERTER-SECTION-PD4655LIV-PD4655LIV.htm
Is it the same installation, sive, etc, as the 35 amp PD4635LIV ?? Thanks
People always say, "link in the description" How come I can never find this link? Will someone please tell me where this description and link are?
On a desktop browser, it can be in the upper right. On a mobile phone it's a one liner below the video title. You have to tap "...more" to see the entire description. I understand the frustration. UA-cam has been changing things around quite a bit in the last year. You're not the only one confused.
So when you up grade to a better charger you kind of knew you would have the lithium batteries in your rig later on in the future.
well done
Hi! I am newly upgraded from tent camping to a Starcraft Launch 16rb camper! After taking it out for a few camping trips, we notice that our Honda eu2000i generator can't recharge the battery very fast. Our favorite campground only lets generators run for 4 hours each day, this is not enough time to get the battery from 1/3 charge to 2/3. Would this converter charger be able to run off of our generator, and charge a single 12v camper battery in 4 hours or less? Thanks!
How do i know if my power converter is not working. I connect the rv to power outlett but my battery is not recharging and my 12v lights are not lighting up.
you are GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My Old set up had 3 wires out red black and Blue wire ! Bud the New converter only have red And black out ! Do you Know what i hook up Insted of the Blue one ?
If I'm upgrading from a 40 amp progressive dynamics to a 75 amp iota, do I need to change the 15amp outlet to 20amp, and do I need to change the 30amp breaker?
Glad we got your issue figured out today. 👍
I installed my intellapower 4600 last season, and has worked great up to last weekend. I lost all power while cooking. The breaker supplying power to the tariler was not tripped. I can't imagine the invertor has failed already. My question is , if my battery is dead will this caise no power, or will the invertor power the trailer without a battery?
Tk you, we are having problem with our converter...can I change from a 45 amp to 55 amp without causing issues???
2005 Citation
What is the second set of + and - used for? I just got a Progressive Dynamics PD9270V Inteli-Power 9200 Series Converter/Charger and I'm unsure what the second + and - is for.
Sorry. I don't have the info handy. If I remember correctly, the instructions that came with the Progressive Dynamics unit was pretty detailed.
Hi Brian i ll like to change my converter like yours !! Is Any issues with it..? Works fine..? Is any new model out there better..? Thanks
I have lithium batteries now. So I've swapped it out with a lithium compatible version of the same.
@@RVwithTito Brian, great video like all the rest...
I want to upgrade mine too, tell me why they don't make one that you can use with SLA or AGM now, switch it to lithium when you get lithium? Know of anyone that makes that?
@@bobcole3852 Those are out there, but mostly as hybrid inverter/chargers that can be programmed for any battery chemistry.
@@RVwithTito I recall from your website you replaced with a PD4655LIV, which is something I have done as well. Have you figured out exactly what PD has done with this converter besides generically "making it better for Lithium?" It seems to always output 14.55v so I'm wondering if it's really now a simple single stage converter. Seems like there must be more to it. Mine still has the pushbutton/led and I'm wondering if it really does anything. I have to admit I haven't experimented much yet, though.
Question for ya..
Your shore power source powers your new converter/charger which then properly charges your battery bank. Your solar panels powers your solar charge controller which then properly charges your battery bank. Sooooo, my question is do you ever have both sources charging your battery bank at the same time or do you use your switches to turn off your solar panels whenever connected to shore power? I would think that both sources of power charging the batteries at the same time would be twice as much voltage as they need.
The reason I'm asking is because I'm in the process of designing a solar panel system and the main area I'm still confused about is the multiple sources of power that charge the battery bank. Because my shore power, generator power, and alternator/engine power would pass through the converter/charger and NOT the solar charge controller, I'm worried that my battery bank would get way too much voltage during daylight hours via solar. I don't see how a solar charger controller or a converter/charger could be considered "smart" if they don't "see" the other before "deciding" what voltage to send to the battery bank.
a simple kid the way I under stand it is the charge controller and the converter charger would be running parallel to one another so the voltage stays the SAME now the amps would certainly increase and so long as your hardware is making decisions based on real time voltage readings then no harm no foul it's no different running a wind mill and a solar array
I am assuming you plug your power cable into either shore power or generator power so there isn't a problem there. Now when your on the road you charge with the alternator and the power converter isn't running except when both the alternator and converter is plugged in at the same time. Like reaching the campground while the vehicle is still running and you just plugged in or haven't removed shore power yet if leaving. The campers converter should recognize when the battery is full and automatically halt sending power and even if it wasn't smart enough to do that it would stop because the rectifiers in the converter prevent power flowing in reverse.
So that leaves only what to do with the solar. Here you need a seperate DC to DC converter to directly charge the batteries which when full can not accept any more power meaning that addition solar goes to waste. The RV converter will not be damaged because you can't reverse the power back through the RV converter or you use DC solar power to AC line connection like in the home which is set to synchronize with the AC from the campground. Now you can send power back through the campground meter or use less of the campgrounds shore power I would not use both AC generator power and AC solar at the same time because of possible synchronization issues.
DO NOT DIRECTLY CONNECT 12/24/48 VOLT SOLAR DIRECTLY TO YOUR BATTERY. 12 volt solar is 12 volts and will not charge a 12 volt battery because battery voltage is really 13.8 volts at usable level and 14 all full charge. The other voltages are obviously not directly usable to charge a 12 volt battery.
Cai I put a wf8955 in my wf8935
Quick question. I currently have a prehistoric 45 watt converter/charger in my 1988 Class C. Would it be beneficial to upgrade to a 55 watt (or amp?) or do I just leave it at 45??? As you can tell I have no clue regarding the electrical side of my RV. Thanks for any help.
I don't know. I may be ok. but I'm can't say for certain. I would ask Progressive Dyamics that question.
Ok thank you.
Can't find the one before this one
How you know that's what it needs what's it do?
Ok, so three years later, how's it working?
+Neil Cotter Still working good.
This is on your Class C motor home correct? The link you provide shows a 55 amp converter, your C has 30 or 50 amps??
Yes correct. my Class C has 30 a amp connection, but my old converter is the 55 amp model. Check the model of your converter then go to progressivedyn.com to lookup the correct replacement model to be sure.
My 2006 Tioga class C has the converter tucked behind the electrical panel. It appears that the whole panel has to be disconnected and removed to replace the converter. It seems pretty daunting. Any thoughts?
Sorry. No easy answer. Mine is accessible from the front. I guess you have to remove it.
Tech question So i have the PD 4600 replaced converter i want to power the battery charger on its own circuit breaker have you done this ? I don’t want a loop goings on
Gary
Hey Gary. It's been a while since I've had one. Mine had a breaker for the converter. If yours does not then you should be able to add a breaker on the 120VAC hot wire that goes to the converter.
I’m new to RV camping. On my first trip out with a 2007 Toy hauler all my AC power went out. No breakers were tripped. Power was good at the shore power connector. Frustrated I gave up. I accidentally kicked my power panel and all the power came back on. So I was told by a friend that my Converter needs to be replaced. Looking at the options, if I upgrade do I need to change from 30amp to 55amp?
No. Not at all. It will still be 30 amp service. Just get the model number off of your existing converter, then go to the Progressive Dynamics site to see which model replaces it. Here's the site: www.progressivedyn.com/rv/power-converters/inteli-power-4600-series
I went to bestconverter.com and my model number is CS6000XL. Im assuming since my DC output is 13.5V and 60amps I would need the PD9260C and customer mount to inside the current housing? Thank you for the help.
I have a 2003 keystone sprinter. I want to change from 30 amp to 50 amp. Do I need to change the breakers, distribution panel, and the fuses?
My breaker keeps tripping on 30 amps.
What? You don't have a flashlight?
They didn't make flashlights 10 years ago. 😉
I'm no fan of Amazon for low prices. We bought two PD4600 series upgraded units at Best Converters for way less than Amazons price. Service is excellent at Best Converters.
Can it be used with lithium also which wire disconnect the battery charging
There is a lithium compatible version.
Is your trailer in this video a 50 or 30 amp ?
My RV is a 30 amp.
when I am plugged into shore power my battery's are climbing to 14.4 then I unplugged . Is my convert bad ?
Lead acid batteries typically charge at around 14.4 volts. They should drop back down to around 13.2 when fully charge in order to maintain the charge. If your converter/charger is always at 14.4 volts then that's a problem. You'll overcharge your batteries and eventually kill them. It's best to make sure you have a multi-stage converter/charger like the one I installed here.
My RV/Sprinter will only charge from the generator and/or with an external direct charger. It does not charge from the alternator or when hooked to a shore power source, etc... I think I need a new transfer relay? Does that sound right? I have a 5000 Series Automatic Transfer Relay from Progressive Dynamics. On there website they only have 5100 and 5200 series now. Will these work? Do I have other options?
Lon, I don't think that is your charger. I think you're likely looking at your Automatic Transfer Switch, which Automatically senses generator power and prevents two power sources from entering the AC Distribution Panel at
the same time. I'm no expert.
Here: www.progressivedyn.com/pd5110010.html
I don't have a red wire for battery from the 4600 converter I'm so confused I only have black and white from old fuse board and wht grn and blk from 4600 converter. where is the red
Chris Romanos please research more but I have seen other videos stating that white would be hot/ positive in your situation. The one I'm referring to was a trailer with the battery in the front behind the propane tanks.
Wish I had of watched this before I paid a "professional" a 75 dollar service charge on top of 80 bucks an hour
Oh well. As long as they did a good job, I suppose it's worth it. If I can, I prefer to do my own work and learn something new in the process. It saves me $$$ and gives me great content for videos. Most of the time I can figure it out. It's important though to know your limits and have the right tools. Thanks for the comment!
My is 7355 model what would you recommend to replace it.
Thank you great Video.
RUBEN CEBALLOS Ruben. That's the same unit I replaced in the video (Parallax 7355). The replacement is the Progressive Dynamics PD4655. Here's a link amzn.to/1fPMq7D.
THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Do you have an on-board gen set in your RV?
+Mike Fitzgerald Yes I do, but I rarely use it.
Did that "new D.C. board" come with the converter, or did you have to buy it separately?
+Julia Ronan The DC board came with it.
Thank you!