You could buy a exhaust pipe expansion tool and use the sealant with 2 u clamps. Good tool to have since you have the mechanical ability. Anyway very good video.
Thank you, I've seen the expansion tool but I don't like to have too many specialty tools if I can help it. I'd rather just borrow one of them using the Loan-a-tool at AutoZone whenever I need something like that.
As long as you're well behind the oxygen sensors, heavily coat the exhaust, inside and out with silicone spray or tire shine to prevent further rust on already rusted pipes. Then you can send some silicone further back by using extra on the inside, then start and rev the engine while it is still wet to protect the inside of the pipe farther back. I like your choice of clamps and am considering using similar clamps myself, where did you get them? However I might have kept in mind that the undersides of cars do have aerodynamics, so I might have rotated the lower clamp to reduce drag. I'm considering similar methods myself to avoid dealing with rusted on bolts and sleeves as well as having to remove the transmission crossmember. I don't have one of those saws though.
@@alan6832 I would think this solution probably has a negligible effect aerodynamically. Or, I should say, the problems this solves are of exponentially greater importance than those it creates. To improve emissions, noise reduction, and engine efficiency while creating a slight aerodynamic disadvantage seems worth it to me.
@@benwrenchin Rotating the lower clamp 90 degrees, so the bolts don't stick down into the airstream, will not increase emissions, noise, or reduce engine efficiency. Actually removing the clamp entirely will only increase noise, and increase emissions within the car, nowhere else. With computer controlled fuel trim, the loud car should be more efficient, but that may not be worthwhile and not what I argued for. I merely argued for rotating the lower clamp 90 degrees to get the bolts out of the airstream and improve ground clearance.
That’s a very good repair. When you cut the pipe on the back section I noted the pipe had good thickness through out its circumference. Don’t be surprised if it lasts a good time longer.
I'm hoping it will. Unfortunately water collects right at that section, so I think no matter what it's not going to last forever. Still, for $40 if it lasts a year or two I'm fine with it, and I expect it could last much longer.
Not a bad repair, but if you fix it a third time, then think about how much you spent fixing it 3 times, it would have been cheaper to just take it in and have it welded. Im all for diy, i fix everything myself as well, but theres somethings you have to think logically on. Give it a shot the first time n see how it goes, but if you fix it a second time, then plan on doing it again a third time, just have it welded and be done with it.
I agree, I originally tested it with the coupler I had on there. Since it lasted quite a while, I tried this and I'll see how long it lasts. So far so good!
Think how much he’s made from the two videos. Plus every time I take my exhaust in “for welding” they charge me for a new front box and back box too, so $500 rather than $40.
@@benwrenchin that's a great shame. UA-cam still shows me ads to watch your video, so most creators get a share of that. I think content creators should be rewarded for getting people to spend time on UA-cam making the company advertising money.
@@makingmusiconline2309 I agree, but at the end of the day, UA-cam is allowing me to get exposure for free by providing a platform as well as a number of awesome tools to build an audience with. There is a lot that UA-cam does for us for free that really encourages us to make them more money so that they can start to pay us when we have shown we have what it takes to provide engaging content to an audience.
Good repair, that’s the way I’d do it. If some of you people can get it done for “$35” do it your way. But there is a satisfaction to fixing stuff yourself at your own schedule. Rather than waiting in line at a muffler shop. I would suggest adding some high temp paint to the whole repair just to make it last longer.
I did this repair about 6 months ago and it's held up really well. The exhaust still sounds great. If you're looking for a more permanent and professional-looking fix, then a $40 fix on a UA-cam video isn't for you.
@@stevewheatley243 My biggest concern is the existing pipe rusting on the back end, but I can always repatch it with the extra length of pipe I have left.
You're not wrong. Just had that exact spot re welded on my truck 2 days ago. It took him longer to get the truck on/off the rack than to do the job. Charged me $35.
Nice, I'll take mine to a muffler guy next time. I always assume the labor cost alone will be more than the cost of parts for me, plus I like doing the work myself.
Ya, there's definitely not welder around here doing that for $30. Not unless hes a good friend. Any time ive been to an exhaust shop, even for something simple, at least $100. Maybe just welding up a tiny hole 50-60. But making 2 cuts, a section of pipe, and 2 welds, one on each side, $100 for sure. I would fix it once myself, if it didnt last, doing it a second time, then planning to do it a third time, yes, after the first time id take it to get welded. Its going to cost almost doing it yourself 2-3times, and likely still need to be done again. Having it welded, its done permanently.
@@jacksmith2315 yeah, for me I think doing it this way is way cheaper and it lasts for long enough that it sure beats paying a lot more to have someone weld a new pipe onto the rust old one.
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Great clip for DIY
Thanks for sharing.
Likes & Shared
Thank you!
You could buy a exhaust pipe expansion tool and use the sealant with 2 u clamps. Good tool to have since you have the mechanical ability. Anyway very good video.
Thank you, I've seen the expansion tool but I don't like to have too many specialty tools if I can help it. I'd rather just borrow one of them using the Loan-a-tool at AutoZone whenever I need something like that.
As long as you're well behind the oxygen sensors, heavily coat the exhaust, inside and out with silicone spray or tire shine to prevent further rust on already rusted pipes. Then you can send some silicone further back by using extra on the inside, then start and rev the engine while it is still wet to protect the inside of the pipe farther back.
I like your choice of clamps and am considering using similar clamps myself, where did you get them? However I might have kept in mind that the undersides of cars do have aerodynamics, so I might have rotated the lower clamp to reduce drag.
I'm considering similar methods myself to avoid dealing with rusted on bolts and sleeves as well as having to remove the transmission crossmember. I don't have one of those saws though.
I got the clamps on Amazon, links are in the description. I like the idea of rotating the clamps, it would have looked cleaner in the end.
@@benwrenchin It's not about looks for me, but aerodynamics, and perhaps ground clearance.
@@alan6832 I would think this solution probably has a negligible effect aerodynamically. Or, I should say, the problems this solves are of exponentially greater importance than those it creates. To improve emissions, noise reduction, and engine efficiency while creating a slight aerodynamic disadvantage seems worth it to me.
@@benwrenchin Rotating the lower clamp 90 degrees, so the bolts don't stick down into the airstream, will not increase emissions, noise, or reduce engine efficiency. Actually removing the clamp entirely will only increase noise, and increase emissions within the car, nowhere else.
With computer controlled fuel trim, the loud car should be more efficient, but that may not be worthwhile and not what I argued for. I merely argued for rotating the lower clamp 90 degrees to get the bolts out of the airstream and improve ground clearance.
@@alan6832 yes, that would be better than what I did, for sure
good job!
Thanks Leo! Appreciate it 🙏
That’s a very good repair. When you cut the pipe on the back section I noted the pipe had good thickness through out its circumference. Don’t be surprised if it lasts a good time longer.
I'm hoping it will. Unfortunately water collects right at that section, so I think no matter what it's not going to last forever. Still, for $40 if it lasts a year or two I'm fine with it, and I expect it could last much longer.
Not a bad repair, but if you fix it a third time, then think about how much you spent fixing it 3 times, it would have been cheaper to just take it in and have it welded. Im all for diy, i fix everything myself as well, but theres somethings you have to think logically on. Give it a shot the first time n see how it goes, but if you fix it a second time, then plan on doing it again a third time, just have it welded and be done with it.
I agree, I originally tested it with the coupler I had on there. Since it lasted quite a while, I tried this and I'll see how long it lasts. So far so good!
Think how much he’s made from the two videos. Plus every time I take my exhaust in “for welding” they charge me for a new front box and back box too, so $500 rather than $40.
@@makingmusiconline2309 I don't make any money from videos
@@benwrenchin that's a great shame. UA-cam still shows me ads to watch your video, so most creators get a share of that. I think content creators should be rewarded for getting people to spend time on UA-cam making the company advertising money.
@@makingmusiconline2309 I agree, but at the end of the day, UA-cam is allowing me to get exposure for free by providing a platform as well as a number of awesome tools to build an audience with. There is a lot that UA-cam does for us for free that really encourages us to make them more money so that they can start to pay us when we have shown we have what it takes to provide engaging content to an audience.
U think it will leak but you not welding it so much rust pipes
I'm not sure how well someone would be able to weld onto the pipes since they are already pretty rusted anyway
Good repair, that’s the way I’d do it. If some of you people can get it done for “$35” do it your way. But there is a satisfaction to fixing stuff yourself at your own schedule. Rather than waiting in line at a muffler shop.
I would suggest adding some high temp paint to the whole repair just to make it last longer.
Great tip! Thanks Victor 🙏
Good Job Man. Saved yourself lots of $$ excellent job.
Thanks 👍
it looks ugly 😄
I did this repair about 6 months ago and it's held up really well. The exhaust still sounds great. If you're looking for a more permanent and professional-looking fix, then a $40 fix on a UA-cam video isn't for you.
Nice repair & relatively inexpensive.
Yes, as long as you already have a reciprocating saw
Looks good to me. And those band clamps work great. They're on my car.
Thanks, the clamps do hold up surprisingly well. The old one that I took off had been on for a year or so and wasn't in bad shape at all.
@@benwrenchin They won't rust out. They may outlive your car.
@@stevewheatley243 My biggest concern is the existing pipe rusting on the back end, but I can always repatch it with the extra length of pipe I have left.
@@benwrenchin You should be able to reuse those clamps too. Mines been on my car 2 yrs and they're still good.
@@stevewheatley243 Did you put exhaust sealer on them too?
looked like a good job to me?.
Thank you!
What is the machine called that u used to cut the exhaust pipe
Reciprocating saw. There is one linked in the description
Gracias gracias gracias
¡De nada!
Nama penjepitnya apa bng
Exhaust coupler
That would be like $30 to have a muffler shop just weld a new pipe in lol
If you can find someone to do it for $30, go for it!
You're not wrong. Just had that exact spot re welded on my truck 2 days ago. It took him longer to get the truck on/off the rack than to do the job. Charged me $35.
Nice, I'll take mine to a muffler guy next time. I always assume the labor cost alone will be more than the cost of parts for me, plus I like doing the work myself.
Ya, there's definitely not welder around here doing that for $30. Not unless hes a good friend. Any time ive been to an exhaust shop, even for something simple, at least $100. Maybe just welding up a tiny hole 50-60. But making 2 cuts, a section of pipe, and 2 welds, one on each side, $100 for sure. I would fix it once myself, if it didnt last, doing it a second time, then planning to do it a third time, yes, after the first time id take it to get welded. Its going to cost almost doing it yourself 2-3times, and likely still need to be done again. Having it welded, its done permanently.
@@jacksmith2315 yeah, for me I think doing it this way is way cheaper and it lasts for long enough that it sure beats paying a lot more to have someone weld a new pipe onto the rust old one.
Better take off all exhaust and weld correctly.
Why's that?