D K Machine Products Steam Donkey / Logging Engine I NEED YOUR HELP!
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Now that the Economy engine is running and off the bench, let's start on another project that has been patiently waiting its turn. Imagine that you're 12 years old, it's Christmas morning, and under the tree sits this little mechanical wonder. With a bit of water and some power from the wall plug, it is ready to pull things across the table, annoy the neighborhood dogs with its shrill whistle, burn your fingertips on the steam valve, and scald you with its directional control lever. You don't have to worry about sis playing with it because the open gear driven winch will quickly teach her the power of steam when she gets her long hair a bit too close. Unfortunately, this one isn't able to continue with it's arsenal of features the way it sits now. So, let's dig in and get it back up and going again. I NEED YOUR HELP though, I have never made a heating element before and after 75+ years the D K Machine Company no longer offers replacement parts or exists. This is going to be a fun and exciting project guy's....... Thank you all for watching, commenting, and offering suggestions. You Guys ARE GREAT!!! If you're not already subscribed.... just think of all the fun projects that you're missing out on!
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neat. looking forward to this one👍
The next video will be a thorough tear down, evaluation, and cleaning. I'll be sure to share the whole process with you guys. Thank you for watching and commenting 👍
Thanks for sharing. I would like to see a close up of how the drive works on the winch. Thank you
We are going to take it all apart in the next video for a thorough cleaning and evaluation. I'll be sure to show how the winch is powered 👍
Hi love you videos please don’t leave the oiling part out 👍👍
Thank you for the encouraging comment 👍. I'll be sure to share the lubrication process from here on out.
Now THAT is a solidly made little engine that can definitely run again. I like winchs //cranes etc engines doing WORK, Heating element is easy to make. Hardware store will have modern 500w heater element which should be aequate as model engines usually have too much boiling, you can trim down your element if too much boil results, or adjust your element placement and insulation. And electronic supply stores will have geeks with this knowledge, Consider cutting some mica sheet from a toaster under it to insulate under the element. It'll be fun :)
Another idea I had is parts from portable and mini electric kettles, or insert 1PCS Single End 2 Wires AC 110V 500W Watt Electric Heating Element Cartridge Heater 8 x 120mm up thru the base into the boiler $5 to $10 and efficient...usual online suppliers etc. or old soldering iron etc,,,
I'm excited for this one too, it'll be fun to see it operate like it did when it was new. I was thinking of leaning towards the higher side of the Watt rating (if I can get it to fit properly) and controlling it with a variac. I have looked at a few hotplates that are the right physical size but they are rated too low (probably U.S. regulations). I am going to see if the appliance parts shop near my day job will have anything that we can modify to achieve our goal. Thank you for the heads up on insulation placement too. I would've completely overlooked that. Thanks again Mr. Thomas, keep up the great videos 👍
The HEATING ELEMENT is missing. something like a electric stove element but smaller. that is attached to the two connections under the boiler. It's hard for me to tell from the video, but the small element from a portable cook top might be small enough and the connections should be just right, neat little engine though. I like the wrench on the whistle!
You're right, it's almost as if it was removed completely for some reason. I could understand if it were still there but just burnt out, but why is it completely missing? The Watt rating is too low to boil the water. I think I will have to make a new element from scratch. Unfortunately I can't find any information on these engines other than the ad I showed in the video so I don't know what the original element looked like. We'll figure it out though. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
The red reversing lever should be stationary once you set it. The reason it only runs well in one direction is because it isn't staying put and, as the reversing plate wobbles with the cylinder, it is restricting airflow.
I saw you discovered the steam fitting on the boiler is a safety valve. That's good. Many of the reversible wobblers use the reversing gear as the steam valve. If the valve had been up on the boiler, then you can't rely on the cylinder as a safety valve.
I've never built a heating element, but you could take some measurements and see if you can find a suitable replacement. From seeing and helping rebuild old heating elements it is much more work than it's usually worth. I don't know if you can buy heating element pre-wound in coils or if you would need to purchase wire and coil it yourself (like making springs on a lathe). The base looks set up for a clay insulated element. To make period-style ceramic bases you just need a friend with a kiln, you can rough shape the clay to the size you want when it is wet and then final size it when it is dry (very dusty, so get as close as possible when wet, but know the wet clay will shrink noticeably). Firing will not cause significant shrinkage from the first dry stage, but you can resize it again before the clear glaze & second firing to get a really good fit. Those would have been insulated with asbestos pads & batting since the wire element has to be kept from touching any of the metal parts of the model, but you can get modern fiberglass & other high temperature insulators that should work fine.
I'm going to completely disassemble it in the next video to see what else needs to be addressed (including the safety valve in the chimney). I also need to replicate the missing knobs for the winch clutch and steam outlet valve. As well as to build a replacement clutch lever. I was wondering what would happen if I were to use plaster of Paris, I would think that it would withstand the temperatures and should be fairly easy to "finish" for the right fitment. Just a thought though. I guess this will be a trial and error type of learning experience that we can all learn from. I've even had a suggestion to use JB weld but I am really skeptical about that idea.
@@steam212Plaster of Paris will finish easily, but will probably disintegrate or burn quickly with a heating element in it. I doubt JB Weld is anywhere near heat tolerant enough for a heating element build.
It might be best to ask Jensen if they have any replacement Heaters left for their Candlestick Engines or their "Nuclear Reactor" Engines. I would say that would be the only way you could get a brand new, unused heater specifically for this purpose and adapt it to fit. Other than that it would come down to scavenging or cannibalizing one out of an old Empire Engine that may have a rotten boiler or parts missing from the Engine. Essentially all those heaters are is just really fine nichrome wire looped around itself like an old electric stove burner so you might even be able to just fabricobble one together yourself.
Great idea, I will contact Jensen and ask them if they have any information on the size and wattage ratings, as well as if they have any available. If you've watched any of my other videos you'll know that I am not opposed to the fine art of fabricobbling, on way or another, we'll have it up and running again 👍. Thank you for the idea and suggestion.
Could you use the heating element from one of the tiny kettles you get in a hotel room. They would be around the correct size (I think).
That's a great idea, but the power output is too low (75-100 watts) it'll be enough to make the water hot but not enough to generate steam. I tried using the one in the shop on an empty soup can to test it out. It made the water hot but it never boiled. Great idea though 👍
@@steam212 oh gosh, I never thought about that.
Engine Block heater element
That is a great idea, I'll have to see what is available that will fit in that space and offer enough wattage to boil the water. I never thought about block heater. Thank you for the idea. I really do mean it when I say that you guys are GREAT 👍
@@steam212 I believe most will boil water, They get real hot and usually the antifreeze in the engine will prevent the water from boiling. Plain water in the steam donkey boiler should boil.
What is the diameter of the boiler base? Would the element of an old coffee percolator work?
Should the shift lever be moving when it's in forward? It doesn't in reverse
I don't think it should be, we'll dig into it on the next video and see why it's acting that way.
a1 kanthol wire is sold at electric suppliers will anso need 4 ceramic standoffs the wattage is on the plate there calculation websites for how much wire of what diameter coil and lenth this is doable ,old hardware stores used to carry electric heater rebuild kits , ,,, toataly doable
Sounds like a great idea. I will have to check with the local mom and pop hardware store and see what they have available. There is also an appliance parts shop nearby that might have exactly what we need too. Thank you for the suggestion and idea 👍