Since I've had an unnecessarily nasty comment saying I should have tested offset and wide rims etc, I thought I'd mention that I already have. For that test, check out my Widebody video.
You might want to try the same thing again but start on the biggest wheel. These small laptime differences might be just you getting more aquainted to the car/track rather than the wheels.
@@mr_skywalkingpimp4067 Do you mean wide offset? It makes almost no difference at all, though can help with stability. My video on the widebody modification covers it in more detail.
I really like your videos man. They are educational for people who want to know something about GT7 and sim-racing. Your taming the monster series is great to watch while eating or in free time because of your tuning knowledge and whole comical concept of slamming a v10 engine into a small wobbly car. Thanks for great content and keep up the good work!
I love this series. I always take notes as I’m a tuner myself. To me it’s like this, large rims for responsiveness and small rims for grip. Another small thing I personally felt is that large rims seem to have a more aggressive grip loss compared to small rims which slip more gradually.
To some degree, I’m happy that polyphony is so opaque with the inner workings of their game, because it allows us as players to be creative and experiment with the minor details like this. On the other hand, I wish they had more transparency so we could know exactly which areas are worth pursuing and which are dead ends! This video seems pretty conclusive, though, that wheels sizes do in fact make a difference.
When will you do suspension because that’s what I struggle with the most and after the recent update cars just handle so terrible making my previous suspension tune unusable
Suspension will likely be coming last since there's so much to cover, and will likely come in multiple videos. The main thing that helps is increasing natural frequency, though. (if you're on racing tyres)
Try generally harder spring rates and start the dampers at Comp. 30 Decomp. 40 front and rear. Used that as my starting point for all cars since the update and it works 9/10 times. My spring rates are between 2.60 and 3.00 on most of my cars, sometimes even higher. You really need to increase those quite a bit on most cars as the game keeps the stock spring rates as default (which are way to soft on many cars). I'm also using quite a bit more camber than before. PD really did players dirty with the default suspension settings in this game, there's only a handful of cars that handle good out of the box or with default race suspension installed
I've found the most gains from LSD adjustments, for suspension go lower and stiffer until you see side effects and then dial back ride height. Add some camber. Don't go crazy with the damper or roll bar settings just a couple of clicks up.
If you go into photo mode during the replay while the car is taking a turn, you can see visually that the game renders the squish on the outside tire and the stretch on the inside tire.
Just subbed your channel. Your LSD tuning video is much appreciated. I like your methodical and granular analysis of Gran Turismo. One of the things i love about GT is the simulation mechanics of the different cars. A real world car enthusiast it fascinates me how everything is true to real life
Thank you for this useful video, you just got a new subscriber. How do you manage to correct the slide without snap oversteering on a controller without any assist? What do you have steering sensitivity at?
Depends on the car and the tyres. I have sensitivity on 2. It's more about the set-up than my ability - a lot of cars I just can't rescue if they start to slide. The trick generally is to just give a quick jolt of corrective steering and then I straighten up and the car slowly corrects itself. Hard to explain
I use a wheel instead of a controller. Larger wheels make the car more responsive on turn in but that additional twitchiness means you have to be much faster and much more precise to correct a slide without snapping over in the other direction. Smaller wheels give you more leeway when the car kicks out, but you lose that quick turn in which is very noticable on corners like Death Chicane. When I change the wheels of a car I go with 15 or 16 on older cars and 18 on newer cars.
Rim size, weight, offset and width definitely have an influence on driving behavior, the question is when does this become relevant. In forced settings e.g. In Sport mode you can influence the driving behavior a little using the rims. Which rim option has what effect also depends on your own driving style. Example: Sometimes small rims with more tire flex lead to more understeer/less oversteer, which ultimately influences the line to achieve a better lap time. But as I said, you have to test it for yourself every time. The absolute performance killer, as in reality, are wide rims with stretched tires... except perhaps for the 32 Ford, where the last time in the time trial on Highway Number 1, heavy, small, wide rims led to the best driving behavior and lap time for me.
GT7 doesn't model wheel weight, and wide rims with stretched tyres make almost no difference - I already tested it in my Widebody video, along with offset. Whether that's the case in real life is a different story.
@@fossilfueled27 Aha, so you compared heavy SUV rims (KMC Beatlocks) with light Centerlock racing rims and didn't notice any difference? Normal road rims are in between in terms of weight, and the influence on sports tires is much more noticeable. However, perhaps I'm more sensitive about this, weight and offset have already made a difference in GT Sport.
That's very helpful, are you going to cover suspension settings next? I have A.D.H.D and I have problems understanding the tuning in GT7 LSD & Suspension are so complicated!
I’m not necessarily questioning your conclusion, but given you tried both tests in the same order (smallest wheels first, then largest wheels) is it not possible that the 1/10th difference could be attributed to your own comfort in the car and track combination
Yes. It's pretty much the first thing I say in the video. I covered it just before the physics update. Since this video covers it in more detail, the original has been de-listed.
That's a cool trade-off, suck and use fat tires or be good and use slim tires. You get rewarded with the slim tires if you can get super close to the curbs.
Since I've had an unnecessarily nasty comment saying I should have tested offset and wide rims etc, I thought I'd mention that I already have. For that test, check out my Widebody video.
You might want to try the same thing again but start on the biggest wheel. These small laptime differences might be just you getting more aquainted to the car/track rather than the wheels.
@@dunanub8725 Someone else already asked. I went back to the small wheels and tried again, same result. Bigger wheels ever-so-slightly faster.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Whoever was nasty, do your own damn wheel test!
Hey thanks for vid, can I ask why ALL wheels were wide? Have you I assume wide wheels are better? Can I ask why?
@@mr_skywalkingpimp4067 Do you mean wide offset? It makes almost no difference at all, though can help with stability. My video on the widebody modification covers it in more detail.
I instinctively felt this was the case, but thank you for confirming my suspicions.
I really like your videos man. They are educational for people who want to know something about GT7 and sim-racing. Your taming the monster series is great to watch while eating or in free time because of your tuning knowledge and whole comical concept of slamming a v10 engine into a small wobbly car.
Thanks for great content and keep up the good work!
I love this series. I always take notes as I’m a tuner myself. To me it’s like this, large rims for responsiveness and small rims for grip. Another small thing I personally felt is that large rims seem to have a more aggressive grip loss compared to small rims which slip more gradually.
The grip loss thing was more noticeable before the physics update. Since the update, the car basically just kills you regardless, I've found.
To some degree, I’m happy that polyphony is so opaque with the inner workings of their game, because it allows us as players to be creative and experiment with the minor details like this. On the other hand, I wish they had more transparency so we could know exactly which areas are worth pursuing and which are dead ends! This video seems pretty conclusive, though, that wheels sizes do in fact make a difference.
When will you do suspension because that’s what I struggle with the most and after the recent update cars just handle so terrible making my previous suspension tune unusable
Suspension will likely be coming last since there's so much to cover, and will likely come in multiple videos. The main thing that helps is increasing natural frequency, though. (if you're on racing tyres)
@@fossilfueled27 👍
Try generally harder spring rates and start the dampers at Comp. 30 Decomp. 40 front and rear. Used that as my starting point for all cars since the update and it works 9/10 times. My spring rates are between 2.60 and 3.00 on most of my cars, sometimes even higher. You really need to increase those quite a bit on most cars as the game keeps the stock spring rates as default (which are way to soft on many cars). I'm also using quite a bit more camber than before.
PD really did players dirty with the default suspension settings in this game, there's only a handful of cars that handle good out of the box or with default race suspension installed
I've found the most gains from LSD adjustments, for suspension go lower and stiffer until you see side effects and then dial back ride height. Add some camber. Don't go crazy with the damper or roll bar settings just a couple of clicks up.
Suspension is hard for most people because they try to solve it in reverse order. You gotta work from the tires up, not the other way around.
If you go into photo mode during the replay while the car is taking a turn, you can see visually that the game renders the squish on the outside tire and the stretch on the inside tire.
Great video! Straight to the point and great detail. Bravo 🙌
Thank you! Great analysis. I will be running the smallest, widest rims with confidence
You should have done some test with the bigger wheels first because the time gain can just be your driving improving, still a cool vid !
I switched back and tried again off camera. Big wheels were still slightly faster.
@@fossilfueled27 okay nice thanks for the info
Just subbed your channel. Your LSD tuning video is much appreciated. I like your methodical and granular analysis of Gran Turismo. One of the things i love about GT is the simulation mechanics of the different cars. A real world car enthusiast it fascinates me how everything is true to real life
Thanks!
Exactly what I found for myself driving the Porsche 959 at the Nurburgring. Smaller wheels made it easier to get over the bumps and curves.
I came for the knowledge, I stayed for the nostalgic sound track 😊
Thank you for this useful video, you just got a new subscriber. How do you manage to correct the slide without snap oversteering on a controller without any assist? What do you have steering sensitivity at?
Depends on the car and the tyres. I have sensitivity on 2. It's more about the set-up than my ability - a lot of cars I just can't rescue if they start to slide. The trick generally is to just give a quick jolt of corrective steering and then I straighten up and the car slowly corrects itself. Hard to explain
Thank you for this review. I was wondering the same thing👌🏻.
I also wonder if the wheelsize effects the car when BOP is enabled.
I use a wheel instead of a controller. Larger wheels make the car more responsive on turn in but that additional twitchiness means you have to be much faster and much more precise to correct a slide without snapping over in the other direction.
Smaller wheels give you more leeway when the car kicks out, but you lose that quick turn in which is very noticable on corners like Death Chicane.
When I change the wheels of a car I go with 15 or 16 on older cars and 18 on newer cars.
3:23 I’m subscribed now. Lmao. I love this car and rave about it. It sounds so good and is super aggressive.
Very importent subject
Thank you and keep up
The good work you do.
Nice livery pick / creation.
Loving the gt4 soundtrack on the gt7 video
Here from your last video about the widebody option and offset
Spoiler alert! It does...
PD needs to allow us choosing different sizes for front and read tires
Thats like pretty much on pair with the real world reasons.
Rim size, weight, offset and width definitely have an influence on driving behavior, the question is when does this become relevant. In forced settings e.g. In Sport mode you can influence the driving behavior a little using the rims. Which rim option has what effect also depends on your own driving style. Example: Sometimes small rims with more tire flex lead to more understeer/less oversteer, which ultimately influences the line to achieve a better lap time. But as I said, you have to test it for yourself every time. The absolute performance killer, as in reality, are wide rims with stretched tires... except perhaps for the 32 Ford, where the last time in the time trial on Highway Number 1, heavy, small, wide rims led to the best driving behavior and lap time for me.
GT7 doesn't model wheel weight, and wide rims with stretched tyres make almost no difference - I already tested it in my Widebody video, along with offset. Whether that's the case in real life is a different story.
@@fossilfueled27 Aha, so you compared heavy SUV rims (KMC Beatlocks) with light Centerlock racing rims and didn't notice any difference? Normal road rims are in between in terms of weight, and the influence on sports tires is much more noticeable. However, perhaps I'm more sensitive about this, weight and offset have already made a difference in GT Sport.
@@Andreas_B. Wheel weight is not modelled in GT7. There is no difference between the different wheel options.
That's very helpful, are you going to cover suspension settings next? I have A.D.H.D and I have problems understanding the tuning in GT7 LSD & Suspension are so complicated!
Suspension will be last due to how much there is to cover.
@@fossilfueled27 ok thanks for making videos for us who have complications with tuning
Love the videos man
Great vids mate
Seems like the changes might have more to do with the amount of rubber side on large wheels being less than a small wheel
Yes i have tried this before now i go allways full grip
Really good job not testing WIDER and MORE OFFSET wheels and tires, along with them being wider.
That's because I've already done a video on it. This deserved its own. Really good job not checking.
Does tuning carry over to the daily races??
Pretty sure it doesn't since daily races have BOP applied.
Good job 👏👍
I wish they’d give us some aero options without the ugly wings. That corvette is ruined with that large wing.
I don't consider myself a beginner, but this certainly did help me. Thanks 👍
I’m not necessarily questioning your conclusion, but given you tried both tests in the same order (smallest wheels first, then largest wheels) is it not possible that the 1/10th difference could be attributed to your own comfort in the car and track combination
I went back to the smaller size and ran the test again just in case that was a factor. Same result.
@@fossilfueled27awesome. keep up the great content
Is this a re-upload? You've done this before, right?
Yes, but due to the physics update 1.49, this is probably a re-upload
probably not since he acknowledged the recent physics update
Yes. It's pretty much the first thing I say in the video. I covered it just before the physics update. Since this video covers it in more detail, the original has been de-listed.
That's a cool trade-off, suck and use fat tires or be good and use slim tires. You get rewarded with the slim tires if you can get super close to the curbs.
So not realistic. 😢