Nigel, I find it beautiful the way you to look at the whole process of creating something. Taking the time, for instance, to look at this simple tool, can open space to realize that it is actually full of details, and we can work with our creativity to make it better to our perspective, especially if we can enjoy being in that moment, just like you aways do with your trees. You're an incredible artist and thank you sharing your art with us.
Leave it to Nigel to spend more time on a tool than most of us spend on our trees. A great lesson in patience and doing things the right way. Thanks Nigel!
Tool restoration is one of my hobbies in addition to bonsai, would love to see you eventually add a 'restoration station's section to your operation. Old antique tools can be just as beautiful as a wonderful aged bonsai, and restoring them is an art. Love this
A good toolkit really is half of the job,so it's very worth while taking good care of it,so I reallly admire your attention for everything you handle! Thanks for sharing it.
This was very instructive. The first bonsai tool I ever bought was a pair of concave branch cutters about 30 years ago. Unfortunately, I neglected them for a period of time, and they rusted up much like Nigel's spherical cutters. I cleaned all the rust off some time ago, but I didn't attempt to smooth out the pits and dimples left behind. Now I see that it can be done with some patience, and it looks like the kind of satisfying work that I enjoy. I'll definitely give it a shot. I'm looking forward to Part 2 with advice for sharpening the cutting edges!
I almost forgot - do you have a Dremmel type rotary tool, and would you recommend using that to smooth out some of the tighter nooks and crannies near the pivot joint?
It sure looks like a brand new tool. It would be nice if you could restore the bluing. At the start if the video you said that the two cutting edges should meet perfectly, but I remember that Hong said there should be a bit of overbite in one of your older tool sharpening videos. Looking forward for the sharpening.
Hi Nigel!! WOW, you have done a great job so far. They are looking beautiful!! I have, not a suggestion, but another thing you can do to make them even more user friendly. There is a plastic (or rubber, I'm not sure which) dip that you can use on things like the handles. When I was still working at the Albany Oregon Water Reclamation Facility, our tools kept getting "borrowed" by some of the other workgroups. So we got some Hot Pink dip, and it was magical! Our tools always showed back up if they were even borrowed in the first place after that. It also makes them easier on the hands if you have to grip them hard for whatever reason. Just thought I would mention the product. I don't have any tools that have rusted, but I'm very glad to see how I can clean them back up when it does happen. Definitely a video I will save to my "Bonsai" video folder. Thank you Nigel and God Bless!
After the sand paper would steel wool work better. Getting rid of the rust starting with soaking in vinegar overnight might help. I agree with the radius idea. I don’t like the handle to be too smooth/slippery, harder for me to hold for repeated cuts.
I think Nigel also likes the process of cleaning the tools by hand. But soaking rusted tools in Cola overnight, and clean it with alcohol works also very nice 👍🏼
The key to a pair of cutters that will stay sharp the longest is to NOT sharpen so the edges touch. They should always be slightly offset. Try running your thumb nail across the edges of a new pair and you will always feel the offset.
1. Wire wheel to remove rust, dirt and resin. 2. Files and sandpaper to remove any casting marks and pitting. 3. Degrease the acetone a few times. 4. Blue the metal with Super Blue by Birchwood Casey. (The only way to blue metal with out heat.)
lol using super blue is a bit overkill and ngl it doesn't protect against rust as well as you'd think. A clear enamel, either spray or nail polish, would work a lot better in my experience. Also, I love to use evaporust before wire wheeling it really helps remove excess rust and makes the process go faster
you should buy a kaneshin polishing gum it's perfect for that. i use it to clean my tools after every time i use them. wd40 is also great if you have rust in the articulations of your tools
@@TheBonsaiZone my pleasure! ;) I found them on the French website « le jardin de moji » but I’m sure other shops sell them. It’s called « gomme de polissage Kaneshin » in French.
Hello ,I picked up a few old bonsai cutters ,one has a missing rivet? Where would I find a replacement and what kind ? Ty so much , love your channel ,john
Evaporust would make short work of the rust. Also Fireball Tool did a thorough test of the 'push don't pull' file thing and disproved it. Push vs pull makes no difference to the file.
Our bonsai scissors have nice finger loops on the handles that make them easier to use. Does anyone know if there are after market clip/slip-on finger loops for tools. I've searched, but can't find any.
I tried to find out who made the pruners, but it is very difficult to read. Maybe someone who knows some Japanese/Chinese can help. I'm pretty sure the last sign is 芝 but I'm very unsure about the two before/above that.
Maybe it’s just a urban legend, but how about submerging the tool in a bath of the famous fizzy drink (soda drink) for a day? According to the folklore, it cleans the rust perfectly! 😅
Ist so funny ,last week I was doing the same ,but I dit it with electrolysis and after that I Bleu them whit Perma bleu ,you can buy it on the internet
Nigel, I find it beautiful the way you to look at the whole process of creating something. Taking the time, for instance, to look at this simple tool, can open space to realize that it is actually full of details, and we can work with our creativity to make it better to our perspective, especially if we can enjoy being in that moment, just like you aways do with your trees. You're an incredible artist and thank you sharing your art with us.
Leave it to Nigel to spend more time on a tool than most of us spend on our trees. A great lesson in patience and doing things the right way. Thanks Nigel!
Thanks Dave, I do enjoy this type of work!
Tool restoration is one of my hobbies in addition to bonsai, would love to see you eventually add a 'restoration station's section to your operation. Old antique tools can be just as beautiful as a wonderful aged bonsai, and restoring them is an art. Love this
Plus then you can restore tools to use for restoring other tools. Have a really funky arsenal, and it's a never ending hobby just as bonsai
A good toolkit really is half of the job,so it's very worth while taking good care of it,so I reallly admire your attention for everything you handle! Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks 👍
Nice restoration!
Hats off to you Nigel to have the patience to do all this by hand 👍, great job !
Great job with amazing detail, most people want a quick fix, but old fashion hard work saves the day.
This was very instructive. The first bonsai tool I ever bought was a pair of concave branch cutters about 30 years ago. Unfortunately, I neglected them for a period of time, and they rusted up much like Nigel's spherical cutters. I cleaned all the rust off some time ago, but I didn't attempt to smooth out the pits and dimples left behind. Now I see that it can be done with some patience, and it looks like the kind of satisfying work that I enjoy. I'll definitely give it a shot.
I'm looking forward to Part 2 with advice for sharpening the cutting edges!
I almost forgot - do you have a Dremmel type rotary tool, and would you recommend using that to smooth out some of the tighter nooks and crannies near the pivot joint?
This is very helpful Nigel! Good job!
The ultimate artist! A philosophy lesson.
It looks like new already! Very nice progress on the restoration!
Thanks Xin, hopefully it will look factory when I'm done!
\
I lost my concave cutters in the yard last fall. If I ever find them again I imagine that I will be doing this too. Thanks Nigel!
Learned lot of basic tool usage today. Thank nigel 😁
It sure looks like a brand new tool. It would be nice if you could restore the bluing.
At the start if the video you said that the two cutting edges should meet perfectly, but I remember that Hong said there should be a bit of overbite in one of your older tool sharpening videos. Looking forward for the sharpening.
" there should be a bit of overbite " - Agreed
Brownells has bluing for guns that would work very well. It's the only way to "blue" without heat.. take care
Hi Nigel!! WOW, you have done a great job so far. They are looking beautiful!!
I have, not a suggestion, but another thing you can do to make them even more user friendly. There is a plastic (or rubber, I'm not sure which) dip that you can use on things like the handles. When I was still working at the Albany Oregon Water Reclamation Facility, our tools kept getting "borrowed" by some of the other workgroups. So we got some Hot Pink dip, and it was magical! Our tools always showed back up if they were even borrowed in the first place after that. It also makes them easier on the hands if you have to grip them hard for whatever reason. Just thought I would mention the product.
I don't have any tools that have rusted, but I'm very glad to see how I can clean them back up when it does happen. Definitely a video I will save to my "Bonsai" video folder.
Thank you Nigel and God Bless!
After the sand paper would steel wool work better. Getting rid of the rust starting with soaking in vinegar overnight might help. I agree with the radius idea. I don’t like the handle to be too smooth/slippery, harder for me to hold for repeated cuts.
I think Nigel also likes the process of cleaning the tools by hand. But soaking rusted tools in Cola overnight, and clean it with alcohol works also very nice 👍🏼
The key to a pair of cutters that will stay sharp the longest is to NOT sharpen so the edges touch. They should always be slightly offset. Try running your thumb nail across the edges of a new pair and you will always feel the offset.
Yes, thanks, there should be a slight overlap!!
Great work Nigel, thank you! 🪴
I never thought my metals and plastics class from high school would actually come in handy one day 😁
Great job Nigel. Ceracoat is a great product to treat the tool so it won't ever rust.
You could also use vinegar to remove the rust. Also, do you think that spherical branch pruners are suitable as the first branch cutter for beginners?
Love the customization of the pruners, Nigel Bonsai Customs😈
I got this hybrid prune. Love it!
Soak in Cola, does a wonderful job!
Soaking in vinegar/ water overnight would save you a lot of time removing rust
Restored my favorite iron skillet with vinegar. It looked like a chunk of Mars when I found it.
Just be sure to dip in an alkaline water to stop the vinegar from corroding the metal, followed by WD-40 to prevent flash rust.
Yeah, but where’s the fun in that? 😉
1. Wire wheel to remove rust, dirt and resin.
2. Files and sandpaper to remove any casting marks and pitting.
3. Degrease the acetone a few times.
4. Blue the metal with Super Blue by Birchwood Casey. (The only way to blue metal with out heat.)
lol using super blue is a bit overkill and ngl it doesn't protect against rust as well as you'd think. A clear enamel, either spray or nail polish, would work a lot better in my experience. Also, I love to use evaporust before wire wheeling it really helps remove excess rust and makes the process go faster
Nigel, love love the videos!!!
Thanks Michael and you are also Foist to comment!!!!
Nigel, probably you can also use rust and sap remover from Kikuwa. Removes rust like a charm
I like your draw-filing technique. . . .and I'm a seasoned Blacksmith. .
Autosol metal polish is really good Stuff Nigel
you should buy a kaneshin polishing gum it's perfect for that. i use it to clean my tools after every time i use them. wd40 is also great if you have rust in the articulations of your tools
it will save you a lot of time ;-)
Thanks for the tip!
@@TheBonsaiZone my pleasure! ;) I found them on the French website « le jardin de moji » but I’m sure other shops sell them. It’s called « gomme de polissage Kaneshin » in French.
Evap-o-rust. Get it from princess auto. Can reuse and lasts for a long time. So easy.
You are a good chemist too...
*chemistry should be respected* 😀
Just a quick safety tip! Don't use files without a handle? The file tang is ment to be inside the handle, & not in your hand or wrist?
Use gun blue to finish them 👍 great job
Already looking like a different tool!
Dont get laquer Nigel. Gunblue gives it a beutifull dark color and provides very good protection. After Gunblue, oil it.
Hello ,I picked up a few old bonsai cutters ,one has a missing rivet? Where would I find a replacement and what kind ? Ty so much , love your channel ,john
You could use a stainless bolt and lock nut, that way you can take them apart for sharpening!
Where is Hong when you need a tool sharpening lesson. Ha! Cheers from Hamilton.
Evaporust would make short work of the rust. Also Fireball Tool did a thorough test of the 'push don't pull' file thing and disproved it. Push vs pull makes no difference to the file.
How do you align the blades?
Our bonsai scissors have nice finger loops on the handles that make them easier to use. Does anyone know if there are after market clip/slip-on finger loops for tools. I've searched, but can't find any.
I think a blueing finish would look nice on this tool, and would prevent it to rust again
Rust-bluing! Or cold-bliuing compound.
Get a gun bluing kit to get the tool black again like it was originally.
Shouldn’t the terminal part of the handle have groves so that the tool does not slip in your hands?
I tried to find out who made the pruners, but it is very difficult to read.
Maybe someone who knows some Japanese/Chinese can help.
I'm pretty sure the last sign is 芝 but I'm very unsure about the two before/above that.
There are lots of files out there in the world. Most of them on computers.
Good one!
Maybe it’s just a urban legend, but how about submerging the tool in a bath of the famous fizzy drink (soda drink) for a day? According to the folklore, it cleans the rust perfectly! 😅
Coke works, because it has a lot of acids in it. But vinegar works better. And even better would be a specialty rust remover or using electrosis.
@@ArdArdArd123 It's a weak phosphoric acid. Not good for tooth enamel!
Hello Nigel!
waaaw
😎😎😎😎😎😎
Thanks!!
Ist so funny ,last week I was doing the same ,but I dit it with electrolysis and after that I Bleu them whit Perma bleu ,you can buy it on the internet
Foist ?
Foist with a foist! 👍🌳👍🌳👍🌳
"Don't breath this."
👍🍎👌
I just let it soak in sulfuric acid