Agreed, plus on a one cylinder like that, the valve springs are so weak that the pressure in the exhaust manifold pushes the valve back down and refills the cylinder making little boost. Just think about it, the honda guys upgrade their valve springs. It only takes 6 psi to open up those weak valve springs..
nah it needs a smaller pipe for for restriction it will help with spooling and it will make more turbo noise and lets be honest you will never feel the power increase anyway
Bro this could be a really really sick long time build... Build up the engine with a billet rod and flywheel, slap a cam in er, port and polish it, and throw a 26mm carb on there and man you'd be making so much power out of this engine, it'll make about 15-18 hp naturally aspirated with those mods, imagine that with boost! Also a manual clutch would make this thing absolutely rip! Side note: You'll wanna get bigger valve springs too.
You actually wouldn't want to shave the head as that would give to high of a compression ratio for boost and you would run into problems with knock. Also you would have to be careful with Cam selection as cams with overlap do not work well with forced induction.
Adrian yup, when boosting intake (normal sea level air pressure about 14 psi) 5 psi more, call it 35% more oxygen to kaboom in the combustion chamber... the compressed input multiplies with the engine compression ratio, not unlike gear ratio multiplying, get into the high RPM you're hammering the hell out of the rod and crankshaft+bearings. there's reason 2 stroke are lower compression and like FAST detonating low octane fuel, same true for high RPM small 4 stroke car engines.
I would be willing to bet you aren't building any boost. Now I am not saying that to be a prick or anything. But your engine isn't large enough to create the heat and flow to properly spin that turbo. Yes you may hear some turbo whining but you can hear a properly setup turbo engine that came with a charger whine at an idle. The sound just means the wheel inside is turning. I like your idea and watching your videos but i will guarantee you if you get a smaller turbo with a tighter exhaust housing you will understand what I am saying.
Not even a smaller turbo just a smaller exhaust housing will help with more boost. if they get a compressor housing any smaller than that i dont think it would make any difference bc how low the boost would be. 5lbs should be a noticeable difference and if they are hitting boost at top end, they should probably still get the smaller exhaust housing for the lower end boost.
Mickey West a smaller exhaust housing, I’d say a slightly smaller diameter exhaust manifold, and a port and polish on both the manifold and turbo hot side, the goal would be to improve efficiency and velocity so that they can maximize power output from that turbo
What he NEEDS is a better cam that requires a ported exhaust port. It'll spool that turbo, i guarantee it. Just like the on i've got and the compressor is 4 times the size the one hes using. Exhaust ports from turbo and engine match too.
Let's lay a few things out, because those of us that understand what is going on here are getitng frustrated with everyone trying to turbo a 'cart and getting these kinds of results: - What turbo is that, there are very few that are small enough that will actually work on a 212. There are turbos that look like that that would need an engine the size of a small automotive 3 or 4 cylinder to spool. What rpm are you turning that 212 to? Officially, the smallest regular production turbo I know of is an RHB31(which looks a little like what you have there), which will move around 100hp worth of air at 15psig. If that's the turbo you're trying to use you'd have to build up your 212 to make about 50hp NA to effectively use that turbo. Not likely. So you either need something smaller/custom or it isn't going to work period, no matter what you do with tuning. - There's a lot of blowthrough/drawthrough comments out there, this won't work, this is better... there are advantages/disadvantages to either. Draw through you just need a carb that is sized for the airflow of the engine + turbo (sized for an engine making the equivalent HP NA), disadvantage, you need a turbo with a special seal on the cold side to keep it from leaking oil, and that seal makes the turbo spool slower, which could be a big problem on your smaller engine. Blowthrough- you need to "boost reference" the carb and the fuel system. Since these things are normally gravity fed that means that the tank would need to be pressurized under boost, probably the easiest way to do this is to plug the vent in the cap, add a fitting to the tank and then build a box around the carb with a fitting, run boost reference lines (after the turbo compressor to both fittings). A more complicated way but probably safer is to run a small, low pressure fuel pump and pressurize the diaphragm side of the pump rather than the tank. - The best way to do it is to convert to fuel injection. It will be easier to tune boost referencing the fuel system, but unless you're running really high boost it won't be 100% necessary, you can tune FI around that if you have to. It could be made to work with the ignition as part of the FI or leaving it stock, and even though this seems like a huge headache, the tuning will be so much better and eaiser that it will make up for most of it. The only real headache on something like that would be to figure out some sort of consistent power source (charging system) for something like a 212. I don't know if anything is available for them or if you'd have to start from scratch. I don't know of a good alternator that would be an appropriate size, but my quick and dirty solution would be to look into converting a small RC brushless motor to an alternator, I'd be surprised if someone hasn't done that kind of thing online somewhere to charge from a small wind turbine.
Mark Pikas you definitely know what you’re talking about, another recommendation I would add is to polish the exhaust tube and the entrance into the hot side of the turbo, for this turbo to get really spooling, they need to increase the velocity in which the gases are traveling, not just increasing how much exhaust gases they can move, velocity will help it spool a little better and may help with boost production
Very good. It is possible to provide optimal mixture through all engine parameters. Keep at it, because I think you guys could put that engine to almost 175% of it's current net h.p. Thanks for the vid!
That thing is clean! Not really a lot of turbo builds and this one is definitely the cleanest! Itd be cool if y’all added a mini windshield, Love your videos
You should not do blow through the way you are thats why the carb is not working right and sputtering. You need to do draw through on the inlet of the turbo. It will then suck in the proper amount of fuel for the air going through the carb the carb is a Venturi and needs that low pressure area behind the throttle blade to suck the fuel through the jet I respect you are trying but you need a little more research. but that carb will never work properly blow through without completely modifying the design of the carb internally and block off and re-drill the pathways inside the carb. Good luck. I really want to see this thing rip
He is right. I carb can't work right under pressure.. it needs to be before the turbo then it will run right and create power and boost.. it will eventually toast that engine the way it is now. Just trying to help them out
to go real turbo about needs EFI, and if not mistaken for watching C&C + RatherBwelding the 10hp Tillotsen has that. but is there any need for a turbo? small single cylinder engines like these, I'm thinking EFI with jet model aircraft electric ducted fan, where both can be managed+programmed electronically. less weight, no fancy plumbing.
Yep. But that kit is $800. I don't know if these guys want to buy it unless they can get someone to give it to them for free. Seems to be the only way anyone does it these days, find someone to spoon feed you rather than go out and earn the money and buy it.
they also got a bigger more expensive engine. It would make more sense to keep it on the low end and not buy a kit that wouldnt work very well on a smaller engine. GRANTED the fact that carsandcameras also did a turbo/efi kit on a smaller motor but even then they decided its somewhat over kill for a small motor and it doesnt make that much more power. it be better for a slightly bigger engine, with the carb it just makes more sense
Tillotson 10hp EFI, brushless electric model jet ducted fan unit with electronic speed controller.... both can be program controlled to work off the flywheel's CDI RPM, the ducted fan ESC would need a hall sensor emulated (and maybe the EFI voltage and frequency manipulated?). I think electric boost is a real possibility.
@@modelnutty6503 could be I'd say it would be more effective to just do a add on electric motor you could easily do a 5-10hp boost without effecting the reliability of the motor and not have to worry about tunning.
You have to walk before you can run. People have given good solid advice and you are not following. $500.00 for 2 mph gain is a fail in my book. Stock low compression, very small cammed engines are easy to boost and gain 25% power. There are books that you can read and learn. This has been done before it is not rocket science.
@@dipstiksubaru3246 That's not what hes talking about my friend. They already tried that anyway. Read Corky Bell Maximum Boost, he explains why a draw through just isn't the better of the options.
Hey you did good. Most that I've seen of people trying to do that they would set the carburetor on fire. your seem to perform better than any of them. So, kudos to that you did good!!
Have you ever researched aftermarket camshafts that say they REQUIRE bigger head ports? That's because they flow more air at a higher velocity. Plus they allow more RPM which send the air at an even HIGHER velocity. Should look into that :)
You need to put a front facing intake on the turbo. With it facing out the back like that it's getting starved for air as you are driving the Kart. So a front facing intake will help force air into it.
What you need is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that will fix your fuel problems in low rpm, this will add the fuel it requires as it builds up boost
+Build Break Repeat , same project 2 weeks back made long comment about trying a brushless motor electric model jet ducted fan unit to drive up some boost. pretty sure its electronic speed controller could be managed (thrust value) from flywheel RPM sensor and/or throttle position, one way or another. it'd sure be smaller lighter and a lot less "plumbing", could even fit one inside an air filter. unrelated to making power... that cart could look even cooler with a pair of small sport mirrors mounted on it, a functional detail thing. hope ya'll read comments there!
That thing can make so much more power. The down pipe is killllllling it right off the bat. You need at least 3” of strait pipe off the flang and at least 1-1/2” od. Put the fuel pump on a 1-4psi Hobbs switch and turn it down to 1 lb. so it doesn’t come on till it starts making boost. And block off the over flows on the carb and loop them together. Just three little tips that will greatly increase functionality. You guys will get it running good. Little by little. I bet you get it to 55mph. Ooo and one more thing. Gap your spark plug to .028. It will help it fire under boost and burn the fuel instead of getting blown out.
I dont remember, did you modify the carb to operate under boost? You cant just use a standard carb in a blow through setup without some minor modifications. Alternatively, doing a draw-through setup will be easier, since all youll need to do is upjet like its for a bigger engine. right now it sounds like you're blowing the gas out of the bowl and back into the tank, which is why it's dying. You need a fuel pump that can overcome the boost pressure and then some, so it can actually fill the bowl. This is not necessary in a draw-through carb setup, which can use a standard, unmodified carburetor.
What if you add a secondary jet in the inlet of the turbo? That way when your not under boost, you can cruise on the n/a air/fuel and when your under boost, when the turbo spool it'll pull it's own extra fuel
The beginning chugging is because of turbo lag, but the high rpm chug is because fuel is getting either pumped back into the fuel tank, or the fuel pump can’t keep up with the amount of fuel been used.
You need a racing clutch, you can set it up to not grab until the engine rpm is hi enough to make boost. That way you can leave on boost and have a faster get away.
If u were to put an air bleed in the carburetor (poppet check valve) you'd probably make the F.A.R. much better through all throttle range. Also something as simple as a window washer fluid pump would give u enough fuel pressure
you should get efi system for that and much bigger downpipe so it wouldnt restrict! and mod that engine out and smaller turbo so you would create any boost!
you guys are working with a wet system there with the carb in front of the turbo...it is most likely making boost...but the fuel supply cant keep up with it....you need to re configure the setup...change it over to fuel injected (yes they do make FI kits for these motors)
You guys should build up the motor, i have yet to see a built up kart engine with a turbo, billet rod, rpm cam, billet flywheel, the works, i bet it would make huge power, you can make up to 20hp naturally aspirated with racing parts, just imagine turboing that!
I bet if you had a few miles of straightaway you could really get that thing moving fast, it seems like you guys have to slow down to turn before this thing is at TopSpeed, you need to find longer straight away and send it!
By question is if the turbo that have on the motor was ment for a gas engine would it be better to run a turbo off of a diesel engine like a jetta or a beetle be cause they create less flow and heat but would allow the small gas engine to create more boost
Hey I got two firefox 620s and I was wondering if you could show how to rebuild the carburetors on the original motor and I also love your videos y’all make nice and cool builds and restorations keep up the good work
I really strongly feel if you make your dump pipe bigger it will get rid of the restriction on the motor and I'm telling you that that turbo will work so much better on there if you just take it off and test it you will see
See if you could find a carb designed for a turbo setup. It seems to run eh with the blow through setup and the current carb you have. It’s got a lot more potential.
Nice results 👍 Bu your rich running under light load or low rpm could be mostly eleminated by using your carburator on the intake side of the turbo. This way it pulls what it needs. Throttle response would be greatly improved. Also retarding your ignition enough would help you to spool the turbo a little sooner. The idea behind this is so there are still much expanding gasses when your exhaust valve opens.
Boostedboiz for a Shopping Cart go-kart has a system made for small engines it's programmable throttle body system it comes map sensor , injector , throttle body , O2 sensor , TPS sensor ECU and it runs on Windows I don't know the name of it but wherever he got it it looks well made and it looks like it's actually work with your turbo system
Gary Hersh not per se, a bigger pipe would reduce the velocity of the exhaust gasses leaving the combustion chamber, with this build, it seems they need more exhaust velocity than just moving more air overall
The John i got that im talking about after the turbo. The exhaust side of the turbo when its done with the exhaust gas needs to flow more to make more boost
Gary Hersh okay, I thought you were talking about pre turbo, in that case yes, flowing from the high pressure manifold through the turbo to the low pressure exhaust will help increase flow rate and help spook faster
as many have said......if you have 5 psi of fuel....and 5 psi of boost....you have zero fuel. The carb must be before the turbo. Thats why it dies at high rpm....the boost as it comes on, is literally forcing the fuel into the float chamber, not pulling it out
Hey guys. Just because I want to help you.. you really need to put the carb before the turbo.. a carburetor works off of vacum to properly meter fuel and air.. the reason why it is popping and sputtering is because it cannot do it's job when the turbo is producing any boost..
Also when you do that you need to make 100% sure it is completely sealed from the carb all the way through the turbo to the engine. You can't have ANY leaks at all...
I would say 2 things for make your whole life a lot better 1 bigger dump pipe for less resistance then to take the carburetor off of the engine and put it on the other side of the Turbo where you would have the air filter then connect your welded up pipe straight to the block that way you're not forcing a whole bunch of air to that little tiny carburetor that's not meant for that but if you put the carburetor on the opposite side it will work like it's supposed to it will put the right amount of gas leaking into the engine I bet if you guys try that you will find that your lives will be a lot better with that thing
You need a bigger down pipe on the turbo, that current one is restrictive
Agreed, plus on a one cylinder like that, the valve springs are so weak that the pressure in the exhaust manifold pushes the valve back down and refills the cylinder making little boost. Just think about it, the honda guys upgrade their valve springs. It only takes 6 psi to open up those weak valve springs..
Lol big turbo+ small engine= 0 lbs boost
I know but it would still help to handle enough back pressure to make boost
nah it needs a smaller pipe for for restriction it will help with spooling and it will make more turbo noise and lets be honest you will never feel the power increase anyway
Bro this could be a really really sick long time build... Build up the engine with a billet rod and flywheel, slap a cam in er, port and polish it, and throw a 26mm carb on there and man you'd be making so much power out of this engine, it'll make about 15-18 hp naturally aspirated with those mods, imagine that with boost! Also a manual clutch would make this thing absolutely rip!
Side note: You'll wanna get bigger valve springs too.
You actually wouldn't want to shave the head as that would give to high of a compression ratio for boost and you would run into problems with knock. Also you would have to be careful with Cam selection as cams with overlap do not work well with forced induction.
@@Miguelmedina22 Good point, I actually don't know a whole lot about turbocharging engines. Thanks for pointing that out.
Possibly billet parts and lower gearing keeping rpms up may help..awsum vid.
Adrian yup, when boosting intake (normal sea level air pressure about 14 psi) 5 psi more, call it 35% more oxygen to kaboom in the combustion chamber... the compressed input multiplies with the engine compression ratio, not unlike gear ratio multiplying, get into the high RPM you're hammering the hell out of the rod and crankshaft+bearings. there's reason 2 stroke are lower compression and like FAST detonating low octane fuel, same true for high RPM small 4 stroke car engines.
I would be willing to bet you aren't building any boost. Now I am not saying that to be a prick or anything. But your engine isn't large enough to create the heat and flow to properly spin that turbo. Yes you may hear some turbo whining but you can hear a properly setup turbo engine that came with a charger whine at an idle. The sound just means the wheel inside is turning. I like your idea and watching your videos but i will guarantee you if you get a smaller turbo with a tighter exhaust housing you will understand what I am saying.
Not even a smaller turbo just a smaller exhaust housing will help with more boost. if they get a compressor housing any smaller than that i dont think it would make any difference bc how low the boost would be. 5lbs should be a noticeable difference and if they are hitting boost at top end, they should probably still get the smaller exhaust housing for the lower end boost.
@@kartzgo9938 Your 100% right about the housing. I guess I should have worded it different.
Mickey West a smaller exhaust housing, I’d say a slightly smaller diameter exhaust manifold, and a port and polish on both the manifold and turbo hot side, the goal would be to improve efficiency and velocity so that they can maximize power output from that turbo
Nitromethane is better to do on these motors cheaper option, money is much better spent on a billet rod or even a predator 420
What he NEEDS is a better cam that requires a ported exhaust port. It'll spool that turbo, i guarantee it. Just like the on i've got and the compressor is 4 times the size the one hes using. Exhaust ports from turbo and engine match too.
Let's lay a few things out, because those of us that understand what is going on here are getitng frustrated with everyone trying to turbo a 'cart and getting these kinds of results:
- What turbo is that, there are very few that are small enough that will actually work on a 212. There are turbos that look like that that would need an engine the size of a small automotive 3 or 4 cylinder to spool. What rpm are you turning that 212 to? Officially, the smallest regular production turbo I know of is an RHB31(which looks a little like what you have there), which will move around 100hp worth of air at 15psig. If that's the turbo you're trying to use you'd have to build up your 212 to make about 50hp NA to effectively use that turbo. Not likely. So you either need something smaller/custom or it isn't going to work period, no matter what you do with tuning.
- There's a lot of blowthrough/drawthrough comments out there, this won't work, this is better... there are advantages/disadvantages to either. Draw through you just need a carb that is sized for the airflow of the engine + turbo (sized for an engine making the equivalent HP NA), disadvantage, you need a turbo with a special seal on the cold side to keep it from leaking oil, and that seal makes the turbo spool slower, which could be a big problem on your smaller engine. Blowthrough- you need to "boost reference" the carb and the fuel system. Since these things are normally gravity fed that means that the tank would need to be pressurized under boost, probably the easiest way to do this is to plug the vent in the cap, add a fitting to the tank and then build a box around the carb with a fitting, run boost reference lines (after the turbo compressor to both fittings). A more complicated way but probably safer is to run a small, low pressure fuel pump and pressurize the diaphragm side of the pump rather than the tank.
- The best way to do it is to convert to fuel injection. It will be easier to tune boost referencing the fuel system, but unless you're running really high boost it won't be 100% necessary, you can tune FI around that if you have to. It could be made to work with the ignition as part of the FI or leaving it stock, and even though this seems like a huge headache, the tuning will be so much better and eaiser that it will make up for most of it. The only real headache on something like that would be to figure out some sort of consistent power source (charging system) for something like a 212. I don't know if anything is available for them or if you'd have to start from scratch. I don't know of a good alternator that would be an appropriate size, but my quick and dirty solution would be to look into converting a small RC brushless motor to an alternator, I'd be surprised if someone hasn't done that kind of thing online somewhere to charge from a small wind turbine.
Mark Pikas you definitely know what you’re talking about, another recommendation I would add is to polish the exhaust tube and the entrance into the hot side of the turbo, for this turbo to get really spooling, they need to increase the velocity in which the gases are traveling, not just increasing how much exhaust gases they can move, velocity will help it spool a little better and may help with boost production
1 to 2 pounds of boost would be all it would need if done right it could be stupid fast
I’ve been waiting for this video.I would curve the exhaust. Put a manual clutch so you can spoil the turbo then get a good acceleration
also bigger 2in wide exhaust would help the turbo push more air through it
There's a big difference between building usable boost and spinning a turbine.
Very good. It is possible to provide optimal mixture through all engine parameters. Keep at it, because I think you guys could put that engine to almost 175% of it's current net h.p. Thanks for the vid!
That thing is clean! Not really a lot of turbo builds and this one is definitely the cleanest! Itd be cool if y’all added a mini windshield, Love your videos
cut from a plexiglass bubble skylight might be a neat option, I think a pair of small sport rear view mirrors would look really great on it too.
You should not do blow through the way you are thats why the carb is not working right and sputtering. You need to do draw through on the inlet of the turbo. It will then suck in the proper amount of fuel for the air going through the carb the carb is a Venturi and needs that low pressure area behind the throttle blade to suck the fuel through the jet I respect you are trying but you need a little more research. but that carb will never work properly blow through without completely modifying the design of the carb internally and block off and re-drill the pathways inside the carb. Good luck. I really want to see this thing rip
thay tried that!
And it didn't work!
This seems to work
He is right. I carb can't work right under pressure.. it needs to be before the turbo then it will run right and create power and boost.. it will eventually toast that engine the way it is now. Just trying to help them out
to go real turbo about needs EFI, and if not mistaken for watching C&C + RatherBwelding the 10hp Tillotsen has that. but is there any need for a turbo?
small single cylinder engines like these, I'm thinking EFI with jet model aircraft electric ducted fan, where both can be managed+programmed electronically. less weight, no fancy plumbing.
Looking good my friend... You guys are getting there...
Cool stuff, looks like a lot of fun! Thanks for the entertainment guys.
What a sick build. Cant wait for more from you guys☝️👌
Boostedboiz got a full efi and ecu for the shopping go kart
Yep. But that kit is $800. I don't know if these guys want to buy it unless they can get someone to give it to them for free. Seems to be the only way anyone does it these days, find someone to spoon feed you rather than go out and earn the money and buy it.
You can rig a cfr 125 efi setup
they also got a bigger more expensive engine. It would make more sense to keep it on the low end and not buy a kit that wouldnt work very well on a smaller engine. GRANTED the fact that carsandcameras also did a turbo/efi kit on a smaller motor but even then they decided its somewhat over kill for a small motor and it doesnt make that much more power. it be better for a slightly bigger engine, with the carb it just makes more sense
Tillotson 10hp EFI, brushless electric model jet ducted fan unit with electronic speed controller.... both can be program controlled to work off the flywheel's CDI RPM, the ducted fan ESC would need a hall sensor emulated (and maybe the EFI voltage and frequency manipulated?). I think electric boost is a real possibility.
@@modelnutty6503 could be I'd say it would be more effective to just do a add on electric motor you could easily do a 5-10hp boost without effecting the reliability of the motor and not have to worry about tunning.
Cars and cameras did it with a draw through and it actually worked pretty good until they went to EFI unlike this blow through setup.
You should try a smaller spark plug gap.
Cool build keep up the work
I was hoping for more tuning. Love the cart and love your channel, keep it up!
You have to walk before you can run. People have given good solid advice and you are not following. $500.00 for 2 mph gain is a fail in my book. Stock low compression, very small cammed engines are easy to boost and gain 25% power. There are books that you can read and learn. This has been done before it is not rocket science.
Yup. All they had to do was put the carb on the inlet side of the turbo
@@dipstiksubaru3246 That's not what hes talking about my friend. They already tried that anyway. Read Corky Bell Maximum Boost, he explains why a draw through just isn't the better of the options.
@@NSXTACY420 they didn't do it properly
Sweet ! I saw someone shave a hair off the flywheel key,and advance the timing.I think that's the finisher.Great job guys.
Great video! This kart looks awesome maybe one day I’ll be able to get my hands on some of things you guys do!
Hey you did good. Most that I've seen of people trying to do that they would set the carburetor on fire. your seem to perform better than any of them. So, kudos to that you did good!!
All it needs is some wings and it will fly.Nice job.you guys make me wanna go to my garage and turn on my go karts and wake up the neighborhood.
Once you get the turbo working and situated you should see if you can get a release valve so it makes that cool noise.
Good work guys!!👍👍
Low sub count you deserve more . Like cars and cams. Loves yur channel.
Have you ever researched aftermarket camshafts that say they REQUIRE bigger head ports? That's because they flow more air at a higher velocity. Plus they allow more RPM which send the air at an even HIGHER velocity.
Should look into that :)
Get a wide band and see what it reads :) Cool project!
needs a 2 stage fuel system or clutch to spool up. also an intake scoop might help at higher speeds
You need to put a front facing intake on the turbo. With it facing out the back like that it's getting starved for air as you are driving the Kart. So a front facing intake will help force air into it.
What you need is a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that will fix your fuel problems in low rpm, this will add the fuel it requires as it builds up boost
+Build Break Repeat , same project 2 weeks back made long comment about trying a brushless motor electric model jet ducted fan unit to drive up some boost. pretty sure its electronic speed controller could be managed (thrust value) from flywheel RPM sensor and/or throttle position, one way or another. it'd sure be smaller lighter and a lot less "plumbing", could even fit one inside an air filter. unrelated to making power... that cart could look even cooler with a pair of small sport mirrors mounted on it, a functional detail thing.
hope ya'll read comments there!
I think you should try forcing more air into the turbo with a directional piping system taking air in at the front of the kart
I have the exact same kart and body just got finished extending the frame and adding posi axel
Why did you decide to not use a blow off valve?
That thing can make so much more power. The down pipe is killllllling it right off the bat. You need at least 3” of strait pipe off the flang and at least
1-1/2” od. Put the fuel pump on a 1-4psi Hobbs switch and turn it down to 1 lb. so it doesn’t come on till it starts making boost. And block off the over flows on the carb and loop them together. Just three little tips that will greatly increase functionality. You guys will get it running good. Little by little. I bet you get it to 55mph. Ooo and one more thing. Gap your spark plug to .028. It will help it fire under boost and burn the fuel instead of getting blown out.
I dont remember, did you modify the carb to operate under boost? You cant just use a standard carb in a blow through setup without some minor modifications.
Alternatively, doing a draw-through setup will be easier, since all youll need to do is upjet like its for a bigger engine.
right now it sounds like you're blowing the gas out of the bowl and back into the tank, which is why it's dying. You need a fuel pump that can overcome the boost pressure and then some, so it can actually fill the bowl. This is not necessary in a draw-through carb setup, which can use a standard, unmodified carburetor.
Yea they added boost to the carb with a reference line and also blocked off the hole that pushes air into the bowl
What if you add a secondary jet in the inlet of the turbo? That way when your not under boost, you can cruise on the n/a air/fuel and when your under boost, when the turbo spool it'll pull it's own extra fuel
I love your channel!!! hoorah!!
The beginning chugging is because of turbo lag, but the high rpm chug is because fuel is getting either pumped back into the fuel tank, or the fuel pump can’t keep up with the amount of fuel been used.
You need a racing clutch, you can set it up to not grab until the engine rpm is hi enough to make boost. That way you can leave on boost and have a faster get away.
Ive bin waiting that was cool I want to do that
If u were to put an air bleed in the carburetor (poppet check valve) you'd probably make the F.A.R. much better through all throttle range. Also something as simple as a window washer fluid pump would give u enough fuel pressure
Try changing the jet of the carb. put a smaller one
you should get efi system for that and much bigger downpipe so it wouldnt restrict! and mod that engine out and smaller turbo so you would create any boost!
you guys are working with a wet system there with the carb in front of the turbo...it is most likely making boost...but the fuel supply cant keep up with it....you need to re configure the setup...change it over to fuel injected (yes they do make FI kits for these motors)
Dude, a supercharger build would be cool too, that's if you can find one.
people have been doing it with a belt driven automotive smog pump,
works really good too with the right size pulleys.
Can you give me any link or smth for the oil pump?? I am building a turbo Honda cub 115cc and the oil pump I have doesn't really do anything...
I think blow through with this kind of carb won't work. But I am really interested to see if you will make it😉😉
You guys should build up the motor, i have yet to see a built up kart engine with a turbo, billet rod, rpm cam, billet flywheel, the works, i bet it would make huge power, you can make up to 20hp naturally aspirated with racing parts, just imagine turboing that!
Do you think a bigger exhaust would help like it does in a car
Nice cam work you should heart/pinn people comments.
I bet if you had a few miles of straightaway you could really get that thing moving fast, it seems like you guys have to slow down to turn before this thing is at TopSpeed, you need to find longer straight away and send it!
You guys are like young carsandcameras
By question is if the turbo that have on the motor was ment for a gas engine would it be better to run a turbo off of a diesel engine like a jetta or a beetle be cause they create less flow and heat but would allow the small gas engine to create more boost
Which song do you have in your intro?
Hey I got two firefox 620s and I was wondering if you could show how to rebuild the carburetors on the original motor and I also love your videos y’all make nice and cool builds and restorations keep up the good work
Rise up the clip of the needle, 1 clip, is not valve float, just lean mixture in the middle range
Sorry mi ignlish, i'm argentinian
I think it needs the carb before the turbo and bigger down pipe with a wide band kit
I think it need a like ram air intake pointing forward to get that much more air and it might be colder air too
Mount the carb directly to the turbo inlet and run the boost pipe into the engine.
Bigger jetting dude 100% its gonna worl
Try strapping a big brushless motor to that turbo impeller!
I really strongly feel if you make your dump pipe bigger it will get rid of the restriction on the motor and I'm telling you that that turbo will work so much better on there if you just take it off and test it you will see
You should put pvc on the wheels of one of your drift karts👍
See if you could find a carb designed for a turbo setup. It seems to run eh with the blow through setup and the current carb you have. It’s got a lot more potential.
The carby still not plumbed in right
Nice results 👍
Bu your rich running under light load or low rpm could be mostly eleminated by using your carburator on the intake side of the turbo. This way it pulls what it needs. Throttle response would be greatly improved. Also retarding your ignition enough would help you to spool the turbo a little sooner. The idea behind this is so there are still much expanding gasses when your exhaust valve opens.
power jet from the bowl drain to get more fuel in ya mix plus turbo abit big for that engine
Hey guys could you run higher octane fuel and advance or decrease your timing maybe might help your it from splutering.
Put a lil shot of Nos it will help it spool and help with flooding out probably
Boostedboiz for a Shopping Cart go-kart has a system made for small engines it's programmable throttle body system it comes map sensor , injector , throttle body , O2 sensor , TPS sensor ECU and it runs on Windows I don't know the name of it but wherever he got it it looks well made and it looks like it's actually work with your turbo system
Omg I love you guys 😶
Just wanted to know why you guys used the mikuni instead of the tillotson racing carb, i thought the tillotson was somewhat adjustable?
I think if u rejet the carb or change it to a pumper carb come down on the fuel with a full pressure regulator u be fine try to get a FCR CARB
You should put a
Torque converter on that puppy
Very cool!
Check out the this little 79cc Razor dune buggy that I made for my son.I wanna know how can I make it faster and can I put a race carburetor on it?
I just hit 666 on the thumbs up. I guess that means the Kart is officially a beast!!
Found a bad ass old racing go-kart with original motor in cleburn for 150 on Craigslist
You need a bigger pipe on the exhaust side of the turbo
Gary Hersh not per se, a bigger pipe would reduce the velocity of the exhaust gasses leaving the combustion chamber, with this build, it seems they need more exhaust velocity than just moving more air overall
The John i got that im talking about after the turbo. The exhaust side of the turbo when its done with the exhaust gas needs to flow more to make more boost
Gary Hersh okay, I thought you were talking about pre turbo, in that case yes, flowing from the high pressure manifold through the turbo to the low pressure exhaust will help increase flow rate and help spook faster
Aye did y’all take the governor off it
This is way cool but not what I expected. I would have thought you could like flore it and do durn outs
I would put a blowoff valve on the turbo make it sound cool when you let off
as many have said......if you have 5 psi of fuel....and 5 psi of boost....you have zero fuel. The carb must be before the turbo. Thats why it dies at high rpm....the boost as it comes on, is literally forcing the fuel into the float chamber, not pulling it out
This is the 212th comment. Holy crap. Awesome video btw. And go kart !!
That sharp bend on the exhaust can’t be helping.
how are you regulating boost without vacuum hooked up to the wastegate? arent you worried about overboost?
retroneshunter
Overboost with 200cc single cylinder? Dont worry. Not enough exhauspulses.
I was thinking it could have something to do with the breaking up
Ever tried to hold the brakes to build up the boost then let brakes go?
Can somebody please tell me the name of the song in the intro? I've literally lost sleep looking for it and it's driving me nuts. Thanks in advance.
run some boost pressure into the tank.. the carb is not getting fuel because of the vacuum in the tank
Hey guys. Just because I want to help you.. you really need to put the carb before the turbo.. a carburetor works off of vacum to properly meter fuel and air.. the reason why it is popping and sputtering is because it cannot do it's job when the turbo is producing any boost..
Also when you do that you need to make 100% sure it is completely sealed from the carb all the way through the turbo to the engine. You can't have ANY leaks at all...
I would get a efi setup but otherwise it’s looking good
Needs solid axle
Nathaniel s. We might end up going twin engine with one wheel peel on both wheels so we can drift in either direction.
When will there be a mini V8 build?
I see a drag race wit you and cars and cameras...
How you stop that i no can see the breaks
Don’t listen to the naysayers, you’re getting boost at high rpms but y’all know, you gotta to get proper fuel flow for boost.
Why don’t to put a carburetor efi kit
I would say 2 things for make your whole life a lot better 1 bigger dump pipe for less resistance then to take the carburetor off of the engine and put it on the other side of the Turbo where you would have the air filter then connect your welded up pipe straight to the block that way you're not forcing a whole bunch of air to that little tiny carburetor that's not meant for that but if you put the carburetor on the opposite side it will work like it's supposed to it will put the right amount of gas leaking into the engine I bet if you guys try that you will find that your lives will be a lot better with that thing
Need a bigger downpipe and a higher cam and a billet rod and lightweight flywheel
nice vid