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Love how you leave the mistakes and fails along with the work arounds for them in your vids so that the rest of us can learn from them. It's a common expression in scientific circles that you learn more from your failures than your successes (I know I have over the years). Thanks for keeping it real. The build is looking great and I can't wait to see the finished project. I learn so much that I can use on my tiny boat watching these. Thanks again.
I have enjoyed watching all your videos. I’ve restored several boats over the years starting back in the mid 80’s. I have referred lots of people that don’t know how to go about doing the work your videos. But I see a lot of teenagers that are attempting to restore boats using pool noodles. And I see lots of project boats for sale on fb market place. I think the see how much time and money it takes to pull it off and give up.
THIS is effin great! I started watching your channel almost 2 years ago. The quality and explanation and detail in your videos has grown exponentially. This video in particular has offered me the most insight and instruction on how to do my subfloor in my deep V Lund. Thanks for all this, its really upping my confidence in being able to tackle this project on my own!
This awesome stuff!! I’m redoing a 1986 grunman. Just ordered the subfloor kit. I’m a paraplegic and wanna use this boat to get veterans, people with disabilities or people struggle with suicide out fishing. So excited thanks for inspiration!!
When I put pour foam in my boat I got a 2'x4' piece of 3/4" MDF ply and a piece of 6 mil plastic. I taped the plastic to the MDF, then poured the foam and placed the MDF over the space I had just poured the foam in. I then sat on it for a few minutes. This forced the foam to flow and fill the entire space, yet left a flat surface level with the top of the floor supports. The plastic wouldn't stick to the cured foam, so I just removed the MDF and then peeled it off. You just have to be sure the foam can't get trapped and break anything because it can't expand.
I just bought a nearly identical boat and plan to build it out to a proper bass boat this winter. “I don’t know what to do about it, it kind of bothers me deeply” is exactly my feeling 😂
One thing I see lacking is coating and corrosion protection on these old aluminum hulls. Inside and out. Chances are it will be fine, but I just think it would be wise. Alluminum definately oxidizes and these old boats could have some bad spots. Great builds man...just would hate to see all of this hard work go out the door for a soft spot or hole that develops. I have been using fasco steel super flex on my older aluminum hulls! Great product. Adds 10-20 mills off extremely tough coating.
You should just get the one time use spray foam tank rigs I feel like it would be easier to judge how much foam you’re getting in there, but I’m definitely no expert we just use ‘‘em building houses and it’s pretty sweet. Sick build!
Have you considered notching out the gussets and using a piece of flat bar or angle to tie it back together to give it better/unclogable drainage? Thoughts?
That is a GREAT motor. Easy starting, fairly light cool sounding. That said it is absolutely the worst nightmare to disassemble of any motor I have worked on. Pray that it doesn't need work. Pulling the powerhead requires every single piece of the exhaust, steering, and bracket to be taken apart. It is also more on par with a 7-8hp than the 9.5 it is billed as in terms of power.
My boat has a plug like that. I'm pretty sure that was the only place it leaked and it's a '59 model. I found an aluminum plug with a seal on Amazon some awesome person had the idea and ability to make. It fits perfectly. You may check them out if that one is having issues.
I am getting ready to encapsulate my new plywood for my boat. My concern and question is if I coat the bottom and edges before installed and the plywood dries crooked or bowed will it flatten out when installed in the boat? It looks like the epoxy dries very hard. Thanks!
I tow a inflatable solar panel that rotates to the sun and charges one of 2 batteries i anchor it in the area we troll in or in front of camp the reflection off the water lights it up big time and we fish the three day weekends
Full Restore : 9.5 Evinrude .... T-Mikes Vintage Outboard Motors (on UA-cam) from Breaux Bridge, Louisiana .... Soon to be in Toledo Bend (Many, Louisiana) He can make that thing look brand new w/ parts, paint & vintage stickers and can make it run 18 mph on a 16' Feather Light Alum. V bottom like that 14'r in this video.
I was just going to reach out to you for advice on helping me with my deceased Grandfather's old boat (first boat I've ever been in) it's a 1958 star craft. I'm an idiot when it comes to this kind of work but it means a lot to me and my family to get it back in the water.. I took up the old subfloor thinking I could find someone local to work on it.. Impossible and I live in Myrtle Beach SC.. So now I'm stuck with a striped down boat and a lot of intimidation. I come to your channel today and your working on a similar boat, even with the old drain plug..smh I will be studying this video but PLEASE HELP if you can Thanks for your videos
A quality 1/4 sheet palm sander with some 40 grip sandpaper does a good job on the pourfoam. When I did my boat I poured the foam in sections. I Had a piece of plywood that I taped wax paper to then I would pour a section then place the plywood on top along with two 60 pound dumbells. The excess would just expand into the bay next to it that needed to be poured. The center bay I blocked off with a piece of plywood with the wax paper that I removed after pouring. The boat is coming along nicely. :)
@@nathanleonard8393 No I did not. I didn't need to. My boat is actually a 1448 mv. The floor and floor supports were done very similar to mikes but welded in. I have two drains at the rear bench seat going thru then to the back via hose to the bildge. I've been out in some heavy rains and the drains did great. The foam was removed from the bench seat and then turned into storage. The boat is set up with a center console with livewell so there is no rod locker storage. This was done like 12 years ago. I am currently in the process of installing a new floor.
silicone? in a boat is good for plastics- polyurethane( pl caulk) for sealing/ adhesive or 4200 what sticks to aluminum? a weld/ rivet /screw 3m makes body panel adhesive 45.00 tube
been watching your videos for awhile now and i just got an older fiberglass boat that needs the transom replaced. was wondering if i have to use wood or can i replace it with a aluminum transom?
Man I appreciate their craftsmanship but dang....I feel like that's so much work for a jonboat...granted haven't seen the final build...maybe I'm just lazy lol.
I bet you'll spend more hours on youtube and the t.v this year and gain absolutely nothing from it compared to the time it takes to do a build like this. Funny how people view useful and productive activities as too time consuming but they'll spend half or more of their free time on the couch.
Not clear on what type silicon you used -- but the typical stuff contains acetic acid (that 'vinegar' odor), which does not play well with aluminum long term.
My engineer mind says... uh... just drill a series of 1/4" holes dead center in the ribs and pump from the back by the transom.... But whatever. Looks good.
This maybe too late... Check out how foundations or molten metal into molds. You can avoid all that extra work and have a perfect fill if you setup the cavity correctly. Basically, you need a lid, vent hole, and put hole. The lid will also trap heat and help the foam react and fill the void.
Yeah if that was my boat I would cry and scratch it out and start all over again because now you have a heavy side of the boat and a later side of the boat. And nobody wants to add led to their boat to come up with balance. Lesson learned don't change your mix don't change your balance just add another pot
Is it that important to have that much foam in it. If you are worried about buoyancy then could you not just (1) cut a solid piece of aluminum for each rib side to side and then cutting individual pieces between each rib (2) why not just use a 1/8 sheet of aluminum 4x8 and just cut where is needed - this eliminates having to seal plywood and also not EVER having to worry about ever replacing the floor again sheet is about $350 each but again never have to worry about replacing EVER (3) the weight I think would be the same
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Every video I have seen is with boats that have cross members to support a floor and to rivet to, my boat has none, how the hell do I put a floor in?
Love how you leave the mistakes and fails along with the work arounds for them in your vids so that the rest of us can learn from them. It's a common expression in scientific circles that you learn more from your failures than your successes (I know I have over the years). Thanks for keeping it real. The build is looking great and I can't wait to see the finished project. I learn so much that I can use on my tiny boat watching these. Thanks again.
It’s good to know that no pool noodles were harmed in this video..You are doing it the right way..
Pool noodles are a thing of the past!
I have enjoyed watching all your videos. I’ve restored several boats over the years starting back in the mid 80’s. I have referred lots of people that don’t know how to go about doing the work your videos. But I see a lot of teenagers that are attempting to restore boats using pool noodles. And I see lots of project boats for sale on fb market place. I think the see how much time and money it takes to pull it off and give up.
THIS is effin great! I started watching your channel almost 2 years ago. The quality and explanation and detail in your videos has grown exponentially. This video in particular has offered me the most insight and instruction on how to do my subfloor in my deep V Lund. Thanks for all this, its really upping my confidence in being able to tackle this project on my own!
Thanks!
I agree, it showed all the things you shouldn’t do with the product. In order too succeed ,you must first learn how too fail!
This awesome stuff!! I’m redoing a 1986 grunman. Just ordered the subfloor kit. I’m a paraplegic and wanna use this boat to get veterans, people with disabilities or people struggle with suicide out fishing. So excited thanks for inspiration!!
Do you photos? I’m starting my Grumman rebuild now.
Love the design as u go and adjust as issues develop style of this. It’s raw and super useful info!
When I put pour foam in my boat I got a 2'x4' piece of 3/4" MDF ply and a piece of 6 mil plastic. I taped the plastic to the MDF, then poured the foam and placed the MDF over the space I had just poured the foam in. I then sat on it for a few minutes. This forced the foam to flow and fill the entire space, yet left a flat surface level with the top of the floor supports. The plastic wouldn't stick to the cured foam, so I just removed the MDF and then peeled it off. You just have to be sure the foam can't get trapped and break anything because it can't expand.
@3:00 in, glad you’re repping that beautiful camera, cause that’s one beautiful bass there. Keep ‘em coming. Love it 😍
You should get it & try it out!
I just bought a nearly identical boat and plan to build it out to a proper bass boat this winter. “I don’t know what to do about it, it kind of bothers me deeply” is exactly my feeling 😂
Watching this as I continue to rip out the waterlogged pour foam in my new/old boat.
One thing I see lacking is coating and corrosion protection on these old aluminum hulls. Inside and out. Chances are it will be fine, but I just think it would be wise. Alluminum definately oxidizes and these old boats could have some bad spots.
Great builds man...just would hate to see all of this hard work go out the door for a soft spot or hole that develops.
I have been using fasco steel super flex on my older aluminum hulls! Great product. Adds 10-20 mills off extremely tough coating.
You should just get the one time use spray foam tank rigs I feel like it would be easier to judge how much foam you’re getting in there, but I’m definitely no expert we just use ‘‘em building houses and it’s pretty sweet. Sick build!
ive used "dry lock" paint to seal off foam aswell works really good
More I need more. Awesome job man.
Have you considered notching out the gussets and using a piece of flat bar or angle to tie it back together to give it better/unclogable drainage? Thoughts?
Instead of foam board you can use drywall shims. They're just as cheap and they already come in strips
That is a GREAT motor. Easy starting, fairly light cool sounding. That said it is absolutely the worst nightmare to disassemble of any motor I have worked on. Pray that it doesn't need work. Pulling the powerhead requires every single piece of the exhaust, steering, and bracket to be taken apart. It is also more on par with a 7-8hp than the 9.5 it is billed as in terms of power.
Thanks!
Spar urethane wouldn’t be good for the subfloor?
It’s not the worst thing you could use, but it’s definitely not going to last like epoxy
My boat has a plug like that. I'm pretty sure that was the only place it leaked and it's a '59 model. I found an aluminum plug with a seal on Amazon some awesome person had the idea and ability to make. It fits perfectly. You may check them out if that one is having issues.
Link me to it, man!
Welding the frame is the only way to go
I might be doing this very soon, what the heck are those green hoses for? Let me take a guess, so under the floor can breath.
You can pretreat your plywood with Wood Conditioner or Pre-Stain sealer and it will soak up less marine resin.
You won’t get the lasting effects of a resin does the wood if you do that
I am getting ready to encapsulate my new plywood for my boat. My concern and question is if I coat the bottom and edges before installed and the plywood dries crooked or bowed will it flatten out when installed in the boat? It looks like the epoxy dries very hard. Thanks!
I'm redoing a 1972 StarCraft with the same problem.
What Playlist is this from? I'd like to watch more of this build.
14 foot StarCraft
I tow a inflatable solar panel that rotates to the sun and charges one of 2 batteries i anchor it in the area we troll in or in front of camp the reflection off the water lights it up big time and we fish the three day weekends
Awesome progress!!!!!!
Wondering if I should do all this work to my boat and put a floor in or just buy another bigger boat with a floor already in it
If you have more time than money or more more than time period that's the question!
Full Restore : 9.5 Evinrude .... T-Mikes Vintage Outboard Motors (on UA-cam) from Breaux Bridge, Louisiana .... Soon to be in Toledo Bend (Many, Louisiana)
He can make that thing look brand new w/ parts, paint & vintage stickers and can make it run 18 mph on a 16' Feather Light Alum. V bottom like that 14'r in this video.
I was just going to reach out to you for advice on helping me with my deceased Grandfather's old boat (first boat I've ever been in) it's a 1958 star craft. I'm an idiot when it comes to this kind of work but it means a lot to me and my family to get it back in the water.. I took up the old subfloor thinking I could find someone local to work on it.. Impossible and I live in Myrtle Beach SC.. So now I'm stuck with a striped down boat and a lot of intimidation.
I come to your channel today and your working on a similar boat, even with the old drain plug..smh
I will be studying this video but PLEASE HELP if you can
Thanks for your videos
These videos are about as specific as it gets so don't worry!
I'm doing a similar build 14 ft aluminum boat. What's you thoughts on 3m blueskin on the foam side of the wood?
you didnt prime or paint the hull? are you not worried about corrosion?
The hull was painted underneath prior to the pour. For sure, I am worried about corrosion.
A quality 1/4 sheet palm sander with some 40 grip sandpaper does a good job on the pourfoam. When I did my boat I poured the foam in sections. I Had a piece of plywood that I taped wax paper to then I would pour a section then place the plywood on top along with two 60 pound dumbells. The excess would just expand into the bay next to it that needed to be poured. The center bay I blocked off with a piece of plywood with the wax paper that I removed after pouring. The boat is coming along nicely. :)
Nice plan!
Did you add the drain tubes like Mike did in this video?
@@nathanleonard8393 No I did not. I didn't need to. My boat is actually a 1448 mv. The floor and floor supports were done very similar to mikes but welded in. I have two drains at the rear bench seat going thru then to the back via hose to the bildge. I've been out in some heavy rains and the drains did great. The foam was removed from the bench seat and then turned into storage. The boat is set up with a center console with livewell so there is no rod locker storage. This was done like 12 years ago. I am currently in the process of installing a new floor.
Awesome video! Thanks for your help
No prob
silicone? in a boat is good for plastics- polyurethane( pl caulk) for sealing/ adhesive or 4200 what sticks to aluminum? a weld/ rivet /screw 3m makes body panel adhesive 45.00 tube
been watching your videos for awhile now and i just got an older fiberglass boat that needs the transom replaced. was wondering if i have to use wood or can i replace it with a aluminum transom?
Please answer this. How did you level the floor?
With a level
Wish y’all would take on my 13 classic whaler with a 20 yr old mod. It would make a great video
Man I appreciate their craftsmanship but dang....I feel like that's so much work for a jonboat...granted haven't seen the final build...maybe I'm just lazy lol.
I bet you'll spend more hours on youtube and the t.v this year and gain absolutely nothing from it compared to the time it takes to do a build like this. Funny how people view useful and productive activities as too time consuming but they'll spend half or more of their free time on the couch.
@@commiecrusher 10 4 good buddy. Might wanna buy a pair of underwear in a bigger size. You a little up-tight my friend.
Awesome video
What's the thickness of this aluminum angle and aluminum tubing ? In mm in metric please or even imperial and I'll convert it
Not clear on what type silicon you used -- but the typical stuff contains acetic acid (that 'vinegar' odor), which does not play well with aluminum long term.
You can use 3M 5200. Good to know about the acid content. I believe it.
I have the exact same boat that I’m working on right now
who needs a drain when it sits upside down on the roof rack all the way home?
Two part 2 lb poor foam can be a pain sometimes 😊
What’s the purpose of the hoses?
I think this should have been Episode 5. It seems to pick up where Episode 4 left off, plus there is no Episode 5.
My engineer mind says... uh... just drill a series of 1/4" holes dead center in the ribs and pump from the back by the transom....
But whatever. Looks good.
I like the way you think
What brand and model is that boat ? It looks like a boat I just bought. 1963 StarCraft?
Yes it is
Nice jack plate
Thanks!
5200 gets hard and can break. 3m 4200 is flexible and is just as strong without breaking.
This maybe too late... Check out how foundations or molten metal into molds. You can avoid all that extra work and have a perfect fill if you setup the cavity correctly. Basically, you need a lid, vent hole, and put hole. The lid will also trap heat and help the foam react and fill the void.
Why seal it when it's closed cell?
Because once you cut, it becomes open cell
What resin did you use?
West systems 105
forget the foam that soaks up water, use ping pong balls
Nice
Thanks!
@@TinyBoatNation how big is that boat? I have a 12’ I’d like to do that to.
Yeah if that was my boat I would cry and scratch it out and start all over again because now you have a heavy side of the boat and a later side of the boat. And nobody wants to add led to their boat to come up with balance. Lesson learned don't change your mix don't change your balance just add another pot
@db fishing🙂👍
Over kill with the foam, there aren’t any boat manufacture giving that much attention too the foam!
That is the problem
Is it that important to have that much foam in it. If you are worried about buoyancy then could you not just
(1) cut a solid piece of aluminum for each rib side to side and then cutting individual pieces between each rib
(2) why not just use a 1/8 sheet of aluminum 4x8 and just cut where is needed - this eliminates having to seal plywood and also not EVER having to worry about ever replacing the floor again sheet is about $350 each but again never have to worry about replacing EVER
(3) the weight I think would be the same
This is a budget boat
It looks really good but it looks it's a piece of crap because you fudged it in the beginning and you just kept on fudging the mistakes that you made
It actually looks really good now!
Oh my God just go buy a real boat!!!!
Messy