CAN YOU STILL BUY A NICE TRACTOR FOR $10,000?
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- You would have a hard time guessing just how often I get an email asking me "which tractor is right for me?" And while I do have a lot of expertise, it's a really hard question to answer. But it's not impossible and there are particular criteria I think you should evaluate to narrow down your selection. Today we'll cover that criteria as I show you a real email and response that I received recently.
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A BX with belly mower, loader, snow blower and a bagger is 33k. That is more than I paid for a 52 horse kubota 12 years ago. Its disgusting.
Great video and advice! I think most people know they can count on you for a no nonsense response and just good honest advice because you’re down to earth and you’ve been around the block a few times, you’ve got experience with tractors, implements, etc…. There aren’t a whole lot of people out there anymore (in sales of any kind) that people put much faith in. All a lot of them care about is making the sale and getting you out the door. One of the main reasons I started watching your videos is because you seemed like an honest hard working blue collar guy that hard working people like myself can respect. Again great video and looking forward to seeing the next one. 👍
Nicely done, and good advice. I went through a similar situation and ended up selecting a TYM T574HC tractor. I'm getting old and wanted a cab tractor 🙂. Not one of the brands you mentioned, but something he may want to consider. I retired from the military in 2006, then retired again from my second job in 2021, and now establishing a 16 acre farm in IN. Farm is on rolling hills with 7 acres of tillable land, 2 creeks, a .25 acre pond and the rest in trees. I've got a 1200' gravel driveway to maintain, and we have 43 chickens, and 2 pigs. Will be expanding to 60 chickens and 6 pigs next year, and then expanding to cattle (probable 4) the following year.
I'm getting the tractor (with loader) with loaded tires and 3rd function valve, 66" leveling box (on order, USA built), 72" grapple (with double piston grab arms), and 48" forks all for under $40k. We incorporated as a farm and sell eggs and pigs, which saves us on taxes. If he didn't need/want a 55 hp tractor that cost would obviously go down. When I did my research, the same tractor at JD or Kubota was $17k more expensive, and didn't have a lot of the extras (work lights front and rear, arm rests on the seat, radio, loaded tires, 3rd function valve) that I wanted so it would have cost even more.
I wasnt sure if you have the rractor already from your post, but if you do: how are you liking the tractor and service availability? I've really been considering TYM but have no dealerships or service near me... the 574 would be a pretty great size though a little garden tractor would be fun too.
@@codyjlee I haven't purchased it yet. Building a house and it should be done mid Sep. Buying right after that. I sent out a standard email to all the IN TYM dealers to find out what I could get one for, then I picked the dealership that had the best record for service (not the cheapest either). I'll see if I can get them to come down a few more hundred dollars seeing as how I have a quote a bit lower, but if not I'll still get it from them. From all the research I've done the tractors are rock solid, and I'm pretty handy at fixing about anything so I plan on doing most/all of my maintenance and repair work anyway. If it has a warranty issue is about the only thing I see myself using a dealership for.
Thanks for the details! I hope all goes well with the build as well as the purchase! I'm hoping to start looking later this year or early next year to purchase, but we'll see how it goes.
I absolutely agree with the point that you want to choose your tractor brand with the dealership in mind. I did months of research (spreadsheet and all) and had my preference narrowed down to three brands that are represented in my area. My front runner, the dealer suddenly dropped that line to focus exclusively on another. One of the others was sold through a big box store and I was completely underwhelmed by the sales and service staff. The staff at the tractor dealer handling the other brand were great. "Good ol boys" who knew tractors (theirs and others) inside and out. I bought that brand partly on the stats: it's a stout lil tractor, and a big part because I felt I'd be treated right by the dealership. Major consideration, especially if you aren't an experienced diesel and hydraulics mechanic.
May I ask what kind you got?
@@chrishall5141 I bought a Massey GC1725. Been very happy with it. It's a sub-compact so too small for folks with a lot of land to tend but, for what I do, it's a great size and is quite capable.
@@DougBittinger thank you.
We’ve wanted a tractor for years and we finally decided to get one. After looking at kubota and Deere, I couldn’t justify their pricing for what you get. I got a bigger tractor and attachments cheaper than either could offer. For just under $28k, we bought a new (Got to see it before it was built) CK2620 with loader, QA 66” bucket, loaded tires, arm rest, dual rear remotes, pallet forks, R14 tires, and woods 60” box blade, plus the dealer is 15 minutes away. Just had it delivered yesterday.
Now I just need to stop by GWT this week to grab my stump wrecker (was recommended the mini) and quick hitch.
I got a kioti CS2520 with loader and 60” mower, pallet forks and delivery for $19,500. I liked the JD and Kubota a lot, but the kioti dealer was far superior to both the Kubota and JD, and the price difference (JD was just north of 30k and Kubota was just shy of 30k). Very happy with my purchase after 50 hours.
My pallet forks are the least used attachment that I have.
If you can, borrow or rent the tiller. You just won’t use it enough to pay for it. Spend the money on making the tractor easier to use; toothbar. Hydraulic top link, quick connect 3pt, rim guard, lights.
And of coarse get a box blade and some kind of mower.
Like the Bible verse. I have been looking for 3 years now; you are right, price for good tractors are very high, good deals are almost nonexistent. Thanks and keep videos coming.
We bought a kubota l3901 loader backhoe package. We still use the 8n for mowing or using York rake.
During my year or so of research, I kept ending back with Kubota. As for size, I went with as big as I wanted to afford to pay.
I wish we had a Summit dealer here in Virginia! The closest one is 150 miles away in MD… I have property now, a tractor is my next necessary purchase
Think I posted this in your price comparison video a while back. I took delivery of a 1025r in November of last year. What I got with it and what it cost: 2023 model, backhoe, loader, standard bucket, 4in1 bucket, single point connect, 3rd function, wheel knob, seat cover, tire swap with rim guard, wheel weights, 6 bracket weights, pallet forks, tiller, box blade, (all attachments are frontier) no belly mower as I use my zero turn. Total in Nov 2022 for me was just under $35k for everything. This doesn't take into account the after purchase things like bucket hooks, hitch, speedco quick attach etc that makes life easier after you have it. Those will add several hundreds of dollars after. Personally, it's a lot of money compared to what they use to be priced. However, it's not a bad price for everything considering where the cost of all these things are heading. I'm no spring chicken anymore in my mid 50s and this has helped me do things around the place that would have taken a lot longer or maybe not at all if I didn't have it. So, it's worth it to me. ROI: I have a 1/4 mile gravel drive. I use to pay someone to maintain it twice a year. Tilled, graded and reseeded a 2ac back yard this spring ( get a quote on that, it will shock you). new landscaping around the house ( again, get a quote, wow) moving downed branches etc. the list goes on. It is paying for itself by me being able to do it myself. Just my 2 cents and maybe it will help someone that is looking. As always, I enjoy your videos and keep up the good work!
My suggestion to your teacher turning farmer is to buy his land first and make sure it’s large enough for the farm exemption. Once this happens, get his farm tax exemption approved so he won’t have to pay sales tax on his equipment. I saved $2,334 in taxes when I purchased my Grand L 3540 January 2023. I started in 2019 with a JD 3038e. I upgraded to the Kubota for a comfortable seat and air conditioning. It’s very hot and humid here in Western Kentucky.
Bought my Kubota Grand L 40 HP for 29k base plus loader and a bunch of implements for about 45.9k total no tractors aren't cheap. But the work I have gotten done is astonishing.
Great video, your gem was finding the right dealership…one that may ask you Why…instead of telling you that you need X . My needs are not the same as the guy living next door to me even though our properties are very similar in size.
Okay, I needed this vid two yrs ago. In 2021 we purchased a 36 acre property in Southern Georgia. 2 acres house and yard, 2 acres woods and soggy bottom, 6 acres pines that still needed cutting between trees. I purchased a JD4044 open cab. The dust, the heft of the material I was cutting and hay fields were just too much for this tractor, I thought. 26-28 acres of cutting, harrowing, planting etc. we have cows, chickens, ducks, geese with horses and sheep in the future. I traded that in on a JD5075 cab. My 4044 cost 24,000, I got 30,000 for this same tractor one year later. I paid cash for it so it was pure money down on the 5075. The new tractor was 63,000. So now I owe today 27,000. I would not do it again. I made a huge financial mistake because I trusted the advice of the JD dealership. The 4044 did the job just fine, but felt like it was working hard, it was, but that was just fine. I should have kept the paid for tractor and understood it was just working hard, not being over worked. Sure, I love being out of the dust, in the AC and listening to music or talk radio while working but every month I have to swing that bat hard to make that 560 dollar payment. Learn from me, more power does not equal a better situation. I will add that I can afford it. It does not cause my family to go without nor put us in a strapped situation but still, I had a tractor that was paid for and traded it in within a year for a 5 yr note . Not my best move.
Great video! Very helpful. I have the 2018 1025r with loader, pallet forks, and tiller. I also have the 60”mowing deck but rarely use it because last year I watched your mowing videos and decided to get a zero turn for speed and cut quality! Great decision for mowing! I am blessed to finally be able to have both! Good times!
another good segment. great advice. i enjoy the way you dont push one brand over the other and remain fair and unbiased.
Very similar decision process for me, and those prices are what drove me to with "the other orange tractor", Kioti- DK4710SE, it's a JD 4-series size frame, HST, 47HP, 2500lbs on the loader, 2700lbs on the 3-pt. Got it with loaded R14 tires, fancier seat, all the little bells and whistles that are an upcharge from JD for ~$32k. The equivalent capability JD was nearly 50% more, just shy of $50k... I can buy a lot of implements for $18k...
Thank you for solid advice. We have 3+ land and our TYM T-25 will be here next week. Quick attach Cat loader w/1380lb lift ,box scraper ,rim guard, rear remote for around 20k, 6 year warranty.
Edit..3rd function valve, Suspension seat w/ arm rest, wireless cell charger, rear lights, B/T speakers...
This was a helpful video for me. My dad was able to purchase a used 80's 4x4 Massey with a front loader, finish mower, box blade, and brush hog for 3.5k a few years ago. We thought it might be a little high as it needed some work, but now know it was a great deal. I am on the look out for something similar, if you have time and are able to jump on an opportunity when it comes you might be able to still find great deals. I wouldn't rule out used, especially if you are like me and my dad and just starting out.
I just purchased a 1982 JD 950 w/loader. Meets my needs: starts every time, snow removal, 6' rotary cutter, 6' York rake, and grader blade. $7k.
NO mention in your video of Kubota LX3310 perhaps. Good mid size tractor
Here is something to think about, my tractor dealer told me this 18 years ago when I was shopping. He showed me a 29 HP (25 PTO HP) compact tractor. I asked if this same size tractor is available with more power, and, would I want more power after I learn the tractor and get comfortable with it? The dealer answers, 'In a family size of tractors that all share the same drivetrain, except the engine power, those putting out the highest power also have the most problems. If you want that extra power then the best thing to do is step up one size of tractor and get the lowest power in that size range so you will get the longest service life to go with it.' I got the 29 hp compact tractor and have been satisfied with that power.
I recently went through a similar situation retired and wanted to start farming and picking a tractor is a lot harder then I thought both a good and bad thing with all the choices but after a few years on the fence I went and started visiting nearby dealerships because it is important to find a dealer you want to work with and if I hadn't I wouldn't have found out about yanmar which I ended up getting. For the price I paid for a new Yanmar 324 I couldn't find anything close and the warranty and fact they invented the commercial diesel engine and still make engines for john deer i felt pretty safe on the reliability and bang for my buck. I was hard pressed on the model as I wanted bigger and more HP but realized that buying a bigger tractor would 1. Cost a lot more and probably be more than I needed 2. The money I spend on the tractor would leave less for me to spend on implements so I would basically be buying a nice socket wrench but being unable to buy the sockets I would need to us it. Just short of a year later I am very happy with my tractor and I think in the end that is the most important thing ask around get advice but pick the one that feels best for you and you will have to go around and test them out to find out which one that is, but you'll gain experience doing it which will make you much more comfortable with the tractor you end up with.
I maintain 40 acres in WV with a 2025R. At the time, I needed a do-it-all machine as my old 1960’s Ford 2000 (which handled my heavy tasks) and my 1980’s Gravely ride ons died within 2 months of each other, and my budget did not allow for a 30-50 hp tractor for brush hog and blade work and a heavy duty lawn mower to handle 12 acres of mowing every week. The 2025R is a great machine and gave me the use of a front end loader, which I hadn’t had on a tractor prior to, but there are some days I miss having those extra 15 horses to brush hog steep slopes, move a lot of snow or pull something heavy.
Another great video I bought a nice used jd 2305 after watch your videos and others then bought the equipment that worked with it, after watching videos research. i went to the dealer that made me feel they were there to help me what i needed and not sell me something that would not work for me. and always think about parts and service.
Moral of the story, If you need a tractor dont wait. Glad I bought my green machine in 2020. Prices keep climbing!
Love the jingle that plays at the end of your video's, please don't change it...oh and thanks for all the great info!!!
Perfect timing. I already bought the farm (82 acres) in SE Alabama, but don’t have any equipment. My land is a a little rolling so this video was fantastic. Long time subscriber. Thinking about buying a tractor at auction, with a friend that is experienced with tractors. Im retired and don’t have to make money off the crops (ie hay)thank God, but it would help buy more things for the farm. Tks for sharing.
Purchased a 2016 Kubota B2630 with under 600 hours with 6' box blade, 5' heavy rake, land pride finish mower and a two bottom plow. No coupler and needs front tires. Nice sheet metal with a little rust under the mats.
Maintenance was iffy as loader fittings wouldn't take grease and had original filter on hyro. @$6000 I believe it was a great deal.
I have a 2019 1025R I picked up used with front loader and 48” Box blade. Got it for $15k with only 19 hours on it. I’ve got 200 hours on the clock now. At the time the local dealer was quoting me around $26k for one off the lot with the same implements. I later picked up a Bush hog for it so I’m into it around $17k at the moment. I can’t imagine spending $30k or so for the same setup today. I’ve been able to accomplish incredible things with 1025R. Great little machines! I’ve now got an 8 acre property though. I’ll put that little tractor through it’s paces this year and if I find myself out-tractored more often than I like I may pick up a larger machine from Branson or LS due to the ability to afford more HP and more attachments for quite a bit less.
Rather than buying attachments depending how often going to use suggestion rent attachments that most new tractors newer all have Bob cat style connection
So enter change just by the attachment that you would use the most such as pallet forks always handy more ways than one
Get a used Kubota that is in a great shape. They are so reliable and won't die that you become bored with one. Kubotas are Toyotas of tractors.
I have the 2018 1025r with loader, pallet forks, brushhog, box blade and tiller. 2 more payments and its mine. today if I went to get the same thing. over 35 grand easy.
My JD 4310 and all attachments came with the foreclosed property. I acquired a post pounder, fence post hole auger, 7 ft wide disc, 6 tine cultivator, 6 ft brush hog and a 4ft hydraulic snow blade. I will say the disc is one of my most unused implements. The post pounder is completely unused. I've never used it in 11 years. I would rather have a tiller attachment than the disc. I use the cultivator to prep the garden then to mix in the bio mass every fall. The brush hog and auger are the most used. I bought a finish mower 3 years ago and used it twice, but I've been running new pasture fence so the sheep replaces the mower. I bought a JD 4610 2 years with a bucket and backhoe and use both attachments every month.
The 4310 has a mid mount PTO but the mower deck alone is over $6000. That's absurdly expensive so I bought a riding mower instead for only $1800 and a 3 pt attached hydro wood splitter for $800.
Someone else has probably mentioned TYM in here already. Key here is fine the manufacturers with the best dealer support in your area then shop for the best value from those options.
I ended up with a Kioti NX cab which was over $20k cheaper than the equivalently configured John Deere. The Kioti dealer is local to me, has a great reputation and half my neighbors own them.
Efficiency is why "all you need is a Fergie TE 20" has gone as far as "Big Bud". My late uncle attached a side mounted sickle mower cutter bar to a used car in 1930
Get the property first and make the tractor fit the property not the other way around. Good luck and would like to see the end result when it comes.
Thank you. I’ll share for sure. I’m one year away of being retired from my teaching/coaching position. Yeah it was me. He was talking about. Ha ha ha thanks for the info.
Truly an impossible question. The first thing to consider as mentioned in the video is dealership. Without that, you can't determine the brand. If your Kioti dealer is 10h drive away.. there's no way i'd be getting one. Over 30h tractor.. man, from the list he has, he's 30k in just attachments.
I’ve got right at 20 acres in eastern Kentucky mostly flat currently doing two acres of vegetables, mostly potatoes and sweet corn. We have have some fruit trees and berries. Currently mowing 10+ acres with a 4 foot bush hog. Current tractor is a Kubota B2920 with loader. Attachments include 12 inch single bottom plow, potato plow, disk bedder, single row cultivator, fertilizer spreader, 35 gallon sprayer, 4 foot bush hog, 5 foot box blade and a 5 foot disk. I also have a quick hitch but half my attachments are old enough to not be quick hitch compatible.
In my opinion the tractor is too small for 80% of what I’m doing. Bush hogging is painfully slow and I mow 4-5 times a year averaging 10+ hours each time. It’s not heavy enough to do a good job plowing. It’s serviceable in established ground but every time I’ve tried to break new ground I’ve ended up borrowing a larger tractor. It’s too low to make a good cultivating tractor which means I’m stuck having to till between rows with a walk behind after the plants get over a foot tall. It pulls the disk but it won’t impress you. It really shines planting and harvesting potatoes. But a potato plow and disk bedder are two of the easiest to pull ground engaging attachments you can buy. It also has industrial tires which I hate. I mow in 4 wheel drive because the tractor will spin in wet grass otherwise.
So there’s my assessment after 3 years of running a market garden operation and maintaining a small farm with a small tractor. Couldn’t imagine doing it with anything smaller.
Weight has more to do with ground engaging attachments than horse power. Horse power comes into play with pto driven attachments.
I’m also not a big fan of hydrostatic transmissions and would likely not buy another.
I wouldn’t feel comfortable recommending a specific model either but the tractors I’ve been looking at are John Deere 3043D, Kubota L4701 and John Deere 4044M. The 4044 is rare as hens teeth here.
If you are doing hay work, you do need a larger tractor for PTO HP, and for weight of the machine. Sounds like this guys would be better off with something larger.
The “What When, Where, Why, & How” are important decision points. Do your research. - When you are near your actual property purchase decision… Ask your future neighbors about their equipment requirements and what they would have benefited from when they purchased their equipment. Either way, if your initial budget is limited, start with your list of attachment costs, such as what PTO power is recommended for the largest attachment - and then set your yearly budget and subsequent annual budgets, until your attachment list is complete. Used low to mid range (10 acre) attachments are readily available. however, you also need to prioritize the long-term multi-year development of your enterprise. The first year, focus on water, external fencing and basic equipment, in order to protect your investment and future livestock. Your personal ‘business plan’ should be both well defined and flexible, as you meet and/or exceed your goals on an annual basis.
The success level within the farming and ranching community, is based upon annual ‘input’ costs as compared with future annual ‘output’ sales & profits. Debt, is how you loose completely, over time. Save your cash, as much as you can, in order to have a significant cash reserve when these ‘input’ expenses exceed your future ‘output’ profits, remembering that what you spend today, is basically an investment in the volatile futures market, which nobody can predict. So, immediately save where and anywhere you can until the future goals are highly successful.
Good Luck.
Prices are so insane, they shouldnt be normalized. Screw these companies!
My advice for tractor shoppers....figure out the frame size first! That dictates maneuverability, implement and loader width, etc. Maybe you know you need to move 5 foot round bales, for example. A "2" series Deere frame will be on the low end of that, the "3" series would be better and the "4" would be overkill unless you have other things or want the added buffer zone (at the expense of more $, and less ability to get into stalls or the barn). Once you know the frame size, use the rest of your tractor budget to get the best engine you can. I generally shy away from the smallest engine in a frame size, but there's also not *normally* a reason to splurge on the biggest engine option, either.
Some people say to figure out what size you need, then go one size bigger, but that's ambiguous. I say figure out the frame size based on the jobs you anticipate, then get a bigger engine. Smaller frames can get into places that larger frames can't, and smaller frames are less harmful to turf or pasture, and are easier to store. Of course, if you're primarily doing ground engagement work, then get the bigger frame, too! But 90% of the people I talk to aren't doing ag farming as the primary use of their tractor, so I try to steer them to "smaller frames can be better (within limits)".
Edited to add: Here in central Florida, I have an LS dealer nearby. He has 2 and 3 sized tractors between 25 and 43 HP for under or right around $30k. If you don't have to have an orange or green tractor, you can find the deals.
Looking at a Massey Ferguson 1736 at a local dealer. 2016 with 200 hrs. its not the E its an M. ( doesn't say M but it has the nicer features.) Asking 20k. I want to do some brush hog stuff and tilling a few acres. Any advice, I just retired a few yrs. ago and want to play around a bit. I think its 35HP..
GREAT Video... 👍👍👍👍👍😮😊
I live in Colorado. My elevation is right at 7000. I did a lot of research prior to purchasing a tractor to meet my needs. Prior to my purchase I used a Ford 9N with a loader to do the things I needed. When I got my new tractor, it was (is) an E 3038. Best purchase I have ever made. It serves every purpose I need. It is also nice not to feel as if I just had a workout after mowing acres of property like the 9N.
Doesn't the 9N have the seat bolted directly to the frame? Or does it just feel that way? :)
@@JCWren You know, I am not really sure JC. I ran that thing for 9 years. Just had it rebuilt in the last year and it was in such bad shape it cost 8000. I simply could not part with it. It now belongs to my #4 son and he loves it. It was my father in laws and he left me three of them. A 9N, 8N with a backhoe attached, and an Avery. I love them all, but you do get kind of beat up on them. I know that I am now spoiled with the electrostatic transmission (no shifting to reverse) and power steering. Another thing the JD does is mow in reverse. The 9N has to have the PTO shut off to get it in reverse.
We have 10 acres and I got the Branson 2515h tractor. I bought it used with a backhoe, tiller, box blade. I then purchased a mower and a trailer.
I got this tractor to handle the 5ft implements that can help with mowing and other chores. I have about 550ft of driveway that needs to be maintained.
I’m super impressed with this tractor.
I got a 1023e with a loader, forks and box blade for $19k.
Good advice
We havent made our tractor purchase yet, because we dont want to pull the trigger, so to speak. We've got around 10 ac also and its the hilly White Mtn foothills, rocky with uneven places. Dangerous scenarios giving nightmares. Id almost rather not buy a tractor, but if i did would prefer 49hp, which is out of my budget. So we do everything by hand and maybe hire a backhoe for particular jobs.
You can look around for used with lower hours…. TractorHouse and a few other such websites have enough listings for new and used…. But even some used cost a small fortune. I’ve done a lot of window shopping for a tractor a bit larger than the customer in this video wants, and I’m still in sticker-shock. I found that I’m a bit partial to Massey Ferguson tractors, but in CT., there are only 2 dealers. Still, this video’s customer might do well with a Massey Ferguson 1736 or similar. New is still under $30k for most with a loader and a cab model I believe, while I’ve seen older 9 year old 1736’s for about $14k. Dealer support is important unless you are a mechanic, know one well, or just don’t care. Good luck with the adventure! Still waiting to start my own!
Thank you very much
Job well done...sound advice e...👨🌾🚜👨🌾🌠🌠
I got a used 1025R with 11 hrs., box blade, brush cutter, and loader for 19K. great liitle tractor, and I love it!
Hp for 10 acres doesn't need to be 40 hp. The hp is mostly for specific implements. Like a 12' mower. Unless he had identified that he is guessing. If it is really hilly the extra hp is needed if in 2 wheel drive. My 40 hp kioti ck will not go up some hills in 2 wd pulling a 72" bush hog but pulls it just fine in 4wd. He doesn't have the property yet so he is guessing. Nothing else needs that much pto hp. I got a 40 hp CK with cab, loader, grapple, rototiller, rake, forks, brushhog and hydraulic rear for $28k (cash). I wanted 33 pto hp for a implement I haven't bought yet. For 10 acres and smaller the turning radius is a big factor and is rarely mentioned. Again it depends on the property. Also think of storing the equipment. It all needs a flat place to store it so you can get it on and off the tractor. Covered or not? All of these things are covered in one of your episodes. I think he needs to identify the property he wants and why before he buys the tractor. Why a posthole digger? Doing lots of fencing? Renting for that size property is probably cheaper. Why a stump grinder? Plans to buy a property with lots of stumps or doesn't want to dig or pull them out? Again he is guessing on needs before he buys the land. The versatility you mentioned is critical until he knows his needs better. I went through this a few years ago and understand where he is coming from. Hope he listened to you and then looks up relevant episodes to review to get a better understanding.
I did listen to him and I thank you for your suggestions as well. God bless.
At elevation I would suggest something that is turbo charged. If you have 2 tractors that for example are both 32 horsepower but one is turbo charged and the other is not then the turbo unit would have a huge advantage at higher elevation.
I would recommend that he sits down and make a list of the chores versus requirements and classify them into Needs versus Wants.
Just based on the information provided in the video, I would recommend the following:
-Kioti CK2620: It is a well-known brand and slightly more premium compared to other South Korean brands.
-TYM/Branson 2515H: This is a powerful and robust 25hp machine known for its simplicity and reliability, it will be hard to find a more capable tractor on this class.
In terms of implements and attachments, I would suggest:
-Front Loader
-Rotary Cutter
-Box Blade (though a land plane is better and easier to use when maintaining a driveway, the box blade is more versatile)
-Pallet Forks
-Grapple
$30,000.00 is very tight, but he might be able to do it with little less than $40,000.00
Thank you
I have a 2025R. Love my belly mower for 2 acre. Also in South MS, riding higher up gives better airflow to keep me cool.
Great video. The best advice is the local dealer. I don't care how much you think you saved on the machine, if you don't have a stocking / servicing dealer fairly close, you will pay.
Hello,
Last October, I bought a TYM T264 with a loader and backhoe for a little over $24,000. This tractor is built heavy. It compares about the same as the John Deere 3036E for less money. Loader capacity is 1386 lbs and the 3-point capacity is around 1400. I love my TYM T264.
The epa has made 75hp the maximum size for most operations. Considering the majority of farms are around 140 acres, most people make the 75hp limit work so they dont have to manage def. And smaller sub-compact tractors arent much cheaper than the compact 75hp...
Excellent comment about “living on your tractor” to do task X, Y, Z etc. the size of tractor that you chose dictates the size of implements you can use therefore directly impacting the time required to get jobs done faster.
As has already been said, get as much tractor as you can afford. Can’t emphasize the enough. You’ll be surprised how nice having a bigger unit really is and the time it can save you. Good luck all and happy tractoring!
I spent close to $50k for my Yanmar YT235 last year, I only got a quick hitch, grapple, factory 3rd function, and dual rear remotes. Love it. I built a Hiller with some steel I had on hand, I also built a stump bucket because my daughter had 30 stumps to remove at her house, and that took me 3 hours to get them all. I also built a 20 ft steel deck trailer to haul it with. I made a knack box mountable on the 3-point to haul any tools that I might need while I rebuild my lake house. I too would like to obtain a tiller, I bought a 2-bottom Ferguson plow and put in a family garden that is doing very well, I rented a tiller to use after a couple of weeks to allow the grasses to break down. I then hilled the garden area and fenced it in using the tractor to set the posts. I immediately got a rear blade and used it to keep the snow out of the way.
My Yanmar 325 was 23k back in November with loader, pallet forks, rear blade, and 60” belly mower!
Can't get many brands here in Hawaii (Big Island). You have JD, Kubota, and Bobcat. Thats really it. End of story. You get what you can. And good luck getting the bigger stuff like flail mowers, and anything like that. Unless you like paying 30-40% more than MSRP. The tractor companies screw us.
I was raised on tractor
I was 8 years old my first tractor that I drove was 1949 ford my uncle had that father sold him he had Massey Ferguson 175 that I drove it’s in my uncle words it a tractor it’s going to my life easier on a farm he had 72 acres he changed 175 at 275 Massey Ferguson I think it’s a 275 he put a loader brush loader for burning the brush the difference is hight not size of the hp hight ground clearance
I have 10 acres my first tractor was a 35 hp front loader and backhoe it still my main work horse i live in the forest
I had that for 5 years before I bought my 2 tractor which was 40 hp again because of hight of ground clearance
I also this year bought my 3 tractor which was 25 hp
Both 25 and the 40 are cab ac and heater 40 is to high to take in the old forest 25 is about the size that should work well in all 3 tractors do the same thing my life easier
And they are all kioti tractors less money on the tractor but for $30k I get a lot of attachments loader backhoe pallet forks on the 35
Add a grapple to it
40 has grapple, loader and rear box greater $33k
25 hp has the center lawnmower attachment also is going to get a grapple bucket they all do the same job except height difference
Washington forest is only 25 inches deep before you hit glacier or hardpan
If I need bigger I’ll rent a mini excavator
I want as much hp as I can afford ….can always turn the throttle down but the throttle only goes so high….
I started off with a 25hp manual trans kubota ….good tractor but ended up needing more hp and a hydro….
Made a finale choice on a kubota 3902….happy as a lark with it….initially before I bought the 2501 , I wanted the 3901 ….but I decided not too cause people said 25 hp was plenty…..for the most part it was , but the work I did a hydro would work better and I figured I’d go with more Hp while I was at it.
I just watched at 150% for a few minutes. Crazy.
I bought a new 2021 Massey Ferguson GC1725M for $16K this spring and can attest that it is a very serious little tractor and perfect for all the tasks mentioned (it had been sitting on a showroom floor). That said, you still do get more bang for the buck with Summit- I just needed something a little smaller since I tend to work in tighter spaces.
I got my 3025d with loader, bucket, forks, rototiller, and box blade for 30k. I also got the dual rear SCVs too.
I just got a quote on a kioti ck2620 w/4030 loader, 3rd function and dual rear remotes for $27,900. If I didn't need the loader lift capacity of the 2620, I'd probably go with the summit.
Bought my Mahindra 1533 with FEL, backhoe, box scraper, and pallet forks for $23k in 2019. Can’t duplicate that these days.
I’ve kind of been looking to do something like the guy that sent you the email. I’m looking at prices and you’re right it’s just gotten crazy.
I think it’s important to think about stuff like this before you buy the land. I’m in Kentucky and you need to walk the land first and buy some thing that’s flatter without the rocks and the hills. Unless you want to do that kind of work intentionally, you’d be better off putting another five or $10,000 into buying the land , then you could get a smaller tractor. I just bought a property now and I’m sort of going through that with lawnmowers as well. I’ve got a little L1 30 and it works OK but the new property has a pretty steep slope that needs to be mowed and it’s about 2 acres. If it was flat, I could just keep my L130 forever And keep fixing it come I’ve already had it for 19 years. But the steep slope would destroy that little hydrostatic transmission and as I start looking at zero turn mowers and researching them come out to get some thing of decent quality you’re paying several thousand dollars now, the lowest I found in mowers would be a cub cadet with the Kawasaki Engine and that’s $5000 but it still doesn’t have the serviceable transmission and to get into that you’re looking at about 8000 or more. So in looking at property he might be a lot better off to spend an extra five or $6000 on a property that is it gonna take Heavier equipment to work it. If you have 10 nice flat acres without rocks for what he’s doing he could probably get a 700 series. I think it is with the small three point attachment and rear PTO but a 1025R would be easy to manage 10 flat acres.
I started looking at a 1025R with a brush hog and a tiller and a loader and a few other attachments and wanted a backhoe and next thing I knew I’m pushing 50 grand. I think for my use I’ll skip the backhoe and just rent an excavator if I need to do something . It would be nice to have, but it all adds up quickly.
I’m sure other manufactures have options also but John Deere has some smaller mower style type options where you have a small three point and a 540 rear PTO and those are under 10 grand but there’s still seven or 8000 and there an option but they’re definitely not as cool or fun Lol
My real question in looking now isn’t so much about the price because I know I’m gonna have to spend 40 or 50 grand to get what I want at least come out my question is how long is it gonna last. I’ve considered looking for a used Kabota BX one of the smaller Tractors but I just don’t know how tough they are. A 1025 hour would be plenty for me or the summit but on the little bit smaller ones like the BX. I’m just wondering. I had a craftsman mower that worked fine but after two or three years, it was just falling apart all the time, the John Deere L1 30 it’s just a small lawn tractor but it was built a little tougher and everything on it is easy to service and get parts for so it’s never been a problem. Even the transmission was only five or $600 to replace a few years ago. But that’s my concern where I have the questions, not so much about price, but is this something I can keep for 30 years it can I service it, is the transmission serviceable and fixable or is it something that’s gonna cost me $1000 every time it breaks every few years, 🤔
Thank you
Norfolk va craigslist has a 2017 100 hour bx2360 with loader for under $11,000
I knew a man who farmed 80 acres with a farmall 140, he made a living in the 70's, 80's and 90's . Had cows, grew tomatoes, watermelon, cantalope, mowed with a 5' sickle. These "gentlemen farmers" of today have no idea how hard this work actually is.
Clearly this customer needs a Fendt 1050
What I was told on equipment. The bigger is going to cost more the faster you get done. The smaller it is cost less. Will take more time.
For 32k I got my 1025r with loader, pallet forks, backhoe, box blade, back blade, post hole digger, and the 3 point quick attach, oh and a ditching bucket. Joan had all of 260 hours on the clock. This was just over a year ago. I've no regrets, I'd be paying a lot more today. A lot more next year.
Hi Courtney. Question on your statement about if there are hills then maybe get a 3032e or the 3038e instead of the 3025e. I have been told that when going up in horse power within the same frame size that all you gain is Pto horsepower. The transmission and hydraulic pumps are the same so you do not gain any horsepower “to the ground” by going up in horsepower. I have often wondered about this question and if there is any difference/more torque by getting the bigger engine in the same frame size. What are your thoughts?
Great stuff GWT always good solid advice.
Getting a budget tractor can be risky when it comes time to fix them, so I’d stick with Kubota or John Deere. A John Deere 3 series would be good, just find a good deal on a used one with the setup you are looking for. Love this channel.
They’re all made in the same factory! There’s literally 3 manufacturers of all the brands
great video very informative
While looking now is good…my thoughts are he needs to identify the main jobs he will need to do and that will be land specific. If flat or gentle rolling he may not need 4wd which saves big bucks. Also gear can HST will save money and enable more tractor for the money.
Most attachments don’t get used often so if he can find used he will save on some of the fixed implements suck as box blade/plane etc.
Good advice. Thank you.
I think people focus on horsepower because America is built on horsepower :) We're constantly bombarded with how many HP such and such car has, and that more is always better. It's also an easily comparable number, unlike FEL lift capacity, which depends on how far in front of the pivots the load is, etc. "If you have more horsepower, you must be able to do more work" seems to be common thinking.
As far as this buyer, I think he's going to find a post hole digger is overrated, and more of a PITA than they're worth. I'd make friends with a local who has one, and compensate them to dig some holes. It's hard enough to get one mounted up when you're in good physical shape, a lot harder if you have a bad back or arthritis or something. They also don't work with a quick hitch. As far as buying advice, if you have ANY intention of even thinking about a grapple, get factory installed front remotes, and ideally a set of rear remotes or at least a hydraulic top link and maybe side link.
Thank you
You don’t need to buy a stump remover. For the cost , you could rent one several times, or better yet,just flush cut it with a (big) chainsaw. And , yes, I speak from experience. Cleared 5 acres by hand solo. Also, if you buy a stump grinder, you might not be able to unload it, or take a big loss of it.
You should do a review of a bad boy tractor
I myself is sold on the Summit tractor. If you look at the Summit and another one compare each. Summit will give you the extra hookups in the front and rear standard. Plus an auto leveling bucket. Now this is my opinion only. I am waiting for a dealer close to me to get one. Good luck on your purchase
Thank you very much
@@chrishall5141 after doing the math Summit was best big for my buck. i have 10 acres 7 of them are in trees and i want to make a path way through them. Good Tractor Works helped 100% after getting one and using it.
I paid $25,387.65 for my Branson 2610H 3 range hydro loader,3rd,1 rear spool, grapple, forks,60inc mid mower,60inc landscape rake and loaded rear tires been a great tractor for me and I looked at them all before buying this one.
Unfortunately these days 10k is no where near what that investment will be and he’s right, the size should be based on terrain, acreage size etc before settling on the size of tractor. Honestly that amount is about 1/4th to 1/5th of the budget needed to buy the machine and needed implements, hydraulics etc. Unless of course you want to go with antique equipment but that can be astronomical and possibly not compatible with implements unless you get really lucky.
My father bought a brand new 1023e with loader and drove over mower in 2018 for like $17,000. And even then there was a $1500 difference between two Deere dealerships and the cheaper one threw in a ballast box for the $1500 less. Do your homework and research.
Knowing the ground you have to work with. There are zero videos about using a tractor with my type of dirt ( extremely hard and rocky) more HP is important for cutting intp it. Aslo the Lift capacity is more important then HP anyday.
john deere advetises 1025 r, bucket, rotary cutter and trailer for 32k
Thats also a John Deere. Other brands are a little bit less than 30k for that size tractor.
I bought, or should say financed a 5 series 2023 for 24,000, I'm sure after the payments unless you pay it off early, but that's band new open cab m series I believe it was, I did finance it but I decided I didn't need it as much as I wanted it, but that what it came out to, I've got a 3520r which I love, it is a little down on power, but we bought all our attachments off Craigslist list, not perfect but they get the job done, I bought my 3520 for 17,000 and it came with a 4 in 1 bucket, and its a 07 year model, you can work this stuff out, if you have any hands on skill, which we do have a small fab shop, so we can weld and fix things, you don't need brand new, it's nice, everybody like new but that isn't something you have to have, only my opinion, on what I'm doing
I’d also add that loader capacity comes into play when looking at the different machine sizes
Great video - I went down the rabbit hole last spring figuring all these aspects out and took a lot of research before buying my first tractor. Nice having it all in one spot!
Tell us, what did you buy ?
@@merrilljohn1619 I ended up going with a Kubota L3302. I wanted a heavier tractor than the LX sized machines to be better suited for some of the land clearing/development we will be doing on a new piece of property.
I seriously considered going with the 25 hp, but glad I jumped to 33, as I have been able to tax it pretty well in some situations already (brush hogging on hills).
You sir are a good source of thought and information. Thank you for your videos.
If he is going to want/need any pto powered attachments in the future stop looking at engine hp and start looking at pto hp. Due to inevitable prices going up it will be better and cheaper to consider this now than to need it later and have to buy second tractor to meet that need.
Thank you very much
Everyone seems to mention post hole diggers and yet they hate them. One thing I've not seen youtubers show is post drivers. I would never want to go back to digging post holes. Maybe the problem is the cost or lack of manufacturers that make them?
In my opinion there is still some value in the economy utility tractor market 40+ HP range . The compact / subcompact market to me has gotten way out of hand similar to trucks . Thanks for the content as always Courtney great content as always great camera presence
I have 2 JD tractors. I'm not brand loyal, the prices and availability at the time were right. One is 38 hp the other is 52hp +/-. Both are great with their own limitations. I think you are right that the mid sized tractors are the great.
@@joeh4295 I’m the same way I’ve got 3 tractors 40-70 HP nimble enough for 90% of jobs other than lawn mowing which I agree with Courtney a dedicated mower beats a subcompact all day for that application
@randysavage8963 I use my 4310 for 80% of my jobs. The 4610 is great for excavation, heavy lift and maintaining my 1/2 mile gravel lane. I use the 4310 for most of the snow removal with a 8 ft rear mount blade.
@@joeh4295 Absolutely sounds like a good combination I use mine for a smaller hay / cattle operation
Common sense recommendations a novice may not know to ask.