YOU'RE WRONG! TRACTOR MISCONCEPTIONS THAT COULD COST YA! 🤯
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Sometimes UA-cam comments are really helpful. Other times... We're here to respond to some of the common themes we see in the comments of our videos, and to try to correct what we see as bad thinking. Of course, we're just one more opinion in the mix, so in the end everyone decides for themselves!
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I'm one of those guys that goes overboard. My 1978 Dynahoe-190 will LIFT on front Bucket
What specs say is (9000 pounds) the specs say what front bucket can handle Safely. I realize this is way overkill. But I do like going into any pile of material and can lift a bucket with so much ease. Now saying my Backhoe Wt. Is (19000) pounds. My backhoe end can lift Maximum Wt. (7580) normal Wt. (3580) done videos showing 4 feet of heaped Dirt in my massive backhoe bucket. Now you ask why I overkill. It's not to say "O" can lift more than a smaller personal Farm Tractor. It's my Restoration TOY. Call her Little Muskie after BUCYRUS-ERIE Big Muskie. Mine being built at the same Factory. YES she is a beast of a bear to turn around in a small area I have my garden in. But for me it is like Land reclamation that open pit mines used to do. I DIG up all my garden soil. Turn into a big pile, then spread out for my CORN crop. Corn being the easiest to Farm for me personally. I Just like BIG overkill equipment for my personal work at my home, I'm not out to make money with my Baby.
My Dynahoe-190 had (92 HP) on the spec sheet.
Youre wife must be nice. Mine would never let me keep my tractor inside our laundry room and, believe me, I've tried 🤣 my biggest misconception when buying a tractor was thinking the salesman knew everything about the tractor and would steer me in the right direction. I should have done more of my own research.
Ever since the early 1980's working on the families Christmas tree farm as a teenager, I've heard stories about people getting injured or worse on tractors. I wish everyone in the industry was as safety focussed as you are Sir. It's real easy to get in trouble with a tractor. Thanks for the content and all of your informative videos!
I love that you left the 'blooper' in the video where you were loading the front bucket and how quickly you saved it from tipping as it started to go over. But that perfectly illustrated the tipability of tractors. I have a 4320 and mistakenly caught a tough root with the corner of my front bucket. When I attempted to lift the load, the bucket stayed at ground level and the tractor started to get pulled over! Holy Smokes! Will that make your backside pucker! Keep up the great videos!! BTW, I still love my Speeco E Quick hitch! At 60 years old, it's so nice to keep my butt in the seat.
Far too many people have ZERO experience with machinery such as tractors with loaders which not only destroys the machine but also can be deadly super quick.
We all start somewhere
Bigger is better is a possible misconception too. I use my 1025R doing residential concrete sidewalks, patios, slabs inside buildings and driveways. The small machine gets in tight spaces and doesn't tear yards up like a large machine or skid steer. It might take me twice the trips moving gravel but I can maneuver much faster on a small machine. Most useful attachments for me are loader, backhoe,, tiller, box blade and of course wheel weights. Tillers are perfect for sod removal and leaves material easy to spread around later. Also good for leveling slight slopes. I like my R4 tires but I spend a fair amount of time on asphalt, concrete and gravel. The thing I like the least about the 1025R is the way shifting in & out of front wheel drive works.
Have 1200 hours on it.
2000 hours in 20 years. I got a giggle out that, I've already put 1300 hours on my 2020 4066r it gets some use. But it isn't the only tractor I have and use, collectively I'm putting around 3000 hours a year on our 7 tractors. Some of the old girls have huge hours on them, one a 1984 130hp tractor just clicked over 21,000 hours another a 1966 55hp just clocked 18,000 hours.
Listening to people complain about the tires on snow and ice I exhausting. For most people the tire shouldn't matter,get a set of John deere tire chains. Night and day difference . I know he's not a fan of chains because they" may"reck asphalt.
If you avoid spinning your tires you won't damage the asphalt. Without out doubt a chain will push 10x what any regular tire will. If you don't have asphalt then seriously 🤦🏼. Now I realize chains suck to put on. So on my smaller tractor I simply bought a second set of rims and tires to have my chains on . Super easy to just swap rear tires .
Tractor tipping with a loader is always on my mind. I always carry my loader as low as possible loaded or not. It's incredible how quick a tractor will go over with a loader hanging on the front. Even a purpose built loader tractor. Seems we are always working on uneven surfaces with rocks, stumps and holes. I would include doing jobs that twist or apply pressure to the loader and tractor are very dangerous and potentially expensive. I have seen tractors broke in half (ones without frames where the engine and transaxle serves as the frame. Please be careful my friends!
The best thing I've done is stop worrying about hours on my tractor. I'll turn it off if it will be more than 5 minutes idling but otherwise I just use it.
Start up puts the most wear on it, nothing wrong with letting it idle.😊
I bought a Green 2520 Tractor 10 years ago when I was building a Pole Barn. It was more than I needed for 3 Acres, but when I compared renting a machine for a month, or buying, it just made more sense. A 1025 would have done the job, but experience has told me, to go up a little to work less. When i need an extra hand, i go get my little green friend. Each year, i try to add another attachment. A machine is a great investment and it will save you alot of time and back pain. Currently, my friend is approaching its 100 hourday. it's never let me down. Especially, when it moves a lot of SNOW from Lake Erie's Lake Effect Snowstorms.
Good info. We get the same type of comments when we are pushing our tractor hard.....that's what they are made for. Life's short, Tractor HARD!! 👍
My wife would never allow me to bring my tractor into our laundry room.
All great info Courtney, I bought the Versa Turf tires because of the info you provided on your channel 👍🏻. The Versa Turf are perfect for my needs, they are awesome in the snow 👍🏻. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to the GWT family and all the best in 2023 ⛄️🎅🏻🎄🙋🏼♂️🙂👍🏻🇨🇦🇺🇸
A thousand hours ain’t nothing. Years ago back on the farm we had tractors with eight thousand plus hours on them and they were gasoline engines. Don’t get me wrong we did regular maintenance and made repairs but as long as you take care of them they will run a long time. Diesels are even better cause they run at lower rpm’s and develop more torque w/o revving very high.
"you can't overload your loader"...while video is playing of the tractor almost tipping over from weight in the loader! I guess moral of the story is to let the loader pickup what it can and not stack stuff in there! Don't get hurt, Courtney!
😂
I traded my 23hp Kubota B2320 for a 25hp L2501. My post hole auger would bog and stall the B, so I didn’t expect much more out of the L…was I dead wrong! The L has nearly a 70% increase in torque, which makes it literally 3-4 times the tractor! Torque is more important than HP with PTO work. I also went with the DT model over HST for the less parasitic loss at the PTO. I can definitely see where HST is more efficient, as the B was a HST, but I just take my time and enjoy the ride😁
How many 1025r if you need to sell one you’re one maybe you can seller to me ok
I agree with you on the (why are you putting hours on your tractor) comment. I buy things to use them not to say I own one
To be over tractored or under tractored is the question… I’ve owned 2,3,4 and 5 Series John Deere’s and have come to the opinion through personal experience that most people buy the wrong sized tractor to meet their needs. Just look at the volume of used Tractors on the market with minimal use.
By owning these tractors I’ve learned what their true capabilities are and are not. I think most people’s propensity is to buy too small of tractor, and then lean towards a bigger model within 2 years.
It's easier to move up than buy a really expensive tractor to start with. Mine is paid off so I can see how easy it would be to move up now if I wanted too😊
@@melissasmess2773 you nailed. The best tractor in your shop is the one that’s paid off.
One mindset I’ve never understood is the “why put hours on that machine when you can put hours on another machine?”
I’ve known some people over the years that have that mindset with all different kinds of equipment and machinery…
One of my favorites was a guy I knew that had a fairly successful lawn and snow business that refused to put a snowplow on his powerstroke F-250 because “it’s hard on the truck”. But he was perfectly happy to buy a 12,000lb skid steer and an additional 5,000lbs of buckets, scrapers, snowblowers and brooms to put on an 8,000lb trailer. And pull it around through a foot of snow every time we had a storm…Needless to say he went through a lot of transmissions, shocks and tires. And other than maybe a couple accounts. Every account he had would have been much quicker to just show up with a nice v plow on the truck.
Probably because a skid steer is more productive and I have never seen a sweeper or snow blower on the front of a truck.
@@melissasmess2773 I’ve been plowing for over 25 years. Skid steers are great for a lot of things. And I love skid steers for snow removal. However there is no comparing productivity levels between a skid steer and a pickup. Productivity of a skid steer at 3mph compared to a pickup at 15-25mph is not a thing. Most skid steers can only handle a 10’ snow pusher. There are now several 10’ or even 11’ plow options for trucks. Personally I have an 810 Blizzard Power Plow on an old 3/4 ton suburban and when opened up to 10’… There is no skid steer out there capable of moving the volume of snow I can move in the time I can move it. And because of the short wheel base of a suburban (or standard cab pickup). There’s not much a skid steer can do that I can’t.
Skid steers excel at moving piles of snow, cleaning city streets that do not have anywhere for snow piles, and loading snow into dump trucks. And they can be useful for hard to get areas like city sidewalks or loading docks when equipped with snowblowers or brooms. And of course really tight areas are a perfect use for the maneuverability of skid steer platforms. But that can bite you in the ass too when the skid slides sideways into a building or car as they often do.
Finally, I think you misunderstood the comment I made. I was saying that he bought snowblowers and brooms for his skid steer, not his truck. And then put all of those heavy attachments on a very heavy trailer along with his heavy skid steer. Then hooked it all up to his truck as if that’s not hard on the truck. As a diesel mechanic of the better part of 20 years. I can promise you a properly sized plow is much less hard on a trucks than towing 20-25,000lbs day in and day out.
For the record, there are a couple of fringe companies that make snowblowers and brooms for truck mount applications. But they’re pretty cheesy.
Thanks for another great video. My 2016 Kubota L3800 had 4982 hours on it before it was damaged and totaled in an accident being towed on my trailer (someone rearended me and the trailer flipped). I am waiting for Summit to come out with the enclosed cab in 2023 so I can purchase it. My 1995 Ford/ New Holland has over 13,000 hours on it and still funs fine. As long as you properly maintain your equipment, hours are not that much of an issue.
Can you bring back 4720 please
Lately it really seems like the color of the tractor is secondary to the dealer selling it. A bad dealer can wreck the ownership experience of even the perfect tractor. It’s getting exasperating really.
Great information. I appreciate you taking the time to educate us all. Have a blessed Christmas!
Fancy seeing you here! Nice FOPS on your 2025r, I plan on doing something similar for my 1025r.
Misconceptions are awfully hard to counter. Especially when someone "knows" them to be true.
Hey, people who think they know everything really annoy the rest of us that do.
Ask your Titan rep why Kubota L60 series doesn’t have R14 and if you could get them direct from a tire dealer (not the tractor dealer) and how you would size them if you already have R4s. Also I’ve been curious if they have the same load rating for loader and backhoe work like on an L6060.
So you sell the pallet fork that hook onto the 3 point quick hitch?
So, does rim guard really have an affect on the valve stems? Mike Morgan noted in one of his latest videos, the tire shop he uses stopped using rim guard........thoughts?
I have a 2020 Mahindra EMax20 with the industrial tires. This tractor’s primary mission is winter snow blowing with a front mounted Bercomac 48” blower. This is the factory cab version EMax. I have a very steep 180’ paved driveway. So far I have had no problems navigating the driveway uphill. Recently we got a wet, heavy snow that when compacted turned to ice. Had to raise the blower for the added weight on front tires and was able to get up the drive. Simply stated I am pleased with the industrial tires for snow.
I have a rear blade for plowing, tried to maneuver on a small slope and front R4's didn't want to turn me, thinking of adding rocks to my loader bucket, definitely not enough weight up front, rears have ballast already, the struggle is real!
@@melissasmess2773 I can understand why. The blade itself isn't very heavy. In my situation I am close to 300lbs. of human ballast, right over the rear wheels. The snow blower is very heavy. I forget the weight but it is somewhere between 300-400 lbs. so when I pick it up that adds a nice bit of ballast for the front wheels. Every situation is different. I'm just saying they industrials are fine for my situation.
Great video. I could especially relate to the dealership part about them telling someone that something isn't available or couldn't be done. Never take their word for it if you have seen it elsewhere or ask them why it isn't available. I'd go further and research it or look to another dealer for information. Especially with tires. The right tire for the job is pretty important. My dad has a B2601 Kubota and it has the industrial tires. He mostly uses it for mowing and some light loader work. They have a long driveway. Would be nice to have the Goodyear r14 for snow but he hasn't complained about it. It may have come that way too because the tractor was already on the lot and was on sale.
Biggest misconception,Is how much you need one vs how much you want one. I’ve got 110 hours in four years. Seventy hours came from loaning to my dad,so he could build a new garden. I did ten hours this year. It’s had four complete fluid changes in 110 hours.
Just an add on to the hour misconception. Most people do not realize the amount of engine running hours they put on a vehicle, in most cases they have about 1/3 more engine running hours than they do miles on that particular vehicle. With that being said the engine running hours on a vehicle is way different than that of a tractor as the tractor is not working the engine as hard as an automobile. I would say that the most valuable thing that can be done when being a tractor owner is research. Allot of research can save you time and money in the long run. As always great information provided and touching on the various things that new and even old owners face on the daily.
That's the truth. My Ford Ranger has a combined trip odometer display that shows MPG, distance to empty, distance since reset, and engine hours. I'll notice it says something like 140 miles driven and 6 hours of engine time and wonder where all that time went. At 60 MPH, that'd be like 2 hours and 20 minutes. But of course you're not driving 60 MPH the whole time. There's stop lights, parking lots, traffic, drive thrus, remote start warm-up times, etc. But it sure didn't feel like I was in the truck for 6 hours.
Looking forward to the video featuring Goodyear/Titan upcoming.
I have had my lsmt225 economy tractor since 2019. The only complaint I have about my tractor. Is the adjustment on the 3-point arms of the right hand side on the back is aggravating to deal with. But as far as the quality of the machine the durability the ease of it running. It is as good as any machine I have ever owned in my life and I have owned a lot. To get the same size machine in a John Deere I would had to have bought a three series but even the three series is not as large as the mt2 series LS machine. I hear people talk about resale value of the machines. Well the John Deere tractor was three times what I paid for my LS tractor new. My machine has to 600 hours. I was offered $12,700 for it the other day. I paid $16,000 for mine brand new. I would say that is a pretty good resale value. Considering what I paid new for it. I do everything from pull a two bottle turning playoff to pulling a 6-ft disc. A hydro garden bedder. So do I have any complaints about my machine. Considering what the price of everything else was for the size that I got and the amount of work that it is done. I will put it like this I'm in the market for a 70 to 80 horsepower cab tractor. So I bought an LS brand one of those also. Mt573. If it is half the machine for little machine is I will be well satisfied for the price I am paying
I have Goodyear R14s on my MX6000 but it was delivered with R1s since R14s were backordered in early 2022. I got the dealer to trade/replace for a reasonable fee and really like them, but it took a few month to get them in. Perhaps they are still hard to source and his dealer doesn't want to bother with it (?).
Only way I will go is r4 tires.... They are stronger.. industrial tire and I have absolutely no problem with traction in winter with no chains... Turf tires have their purpose as far as the lawn mower goes... Other than that plain ugly up a tractor.... R14 honestly cannot give a opinion never tried them.... But I hear they're pretty darn expensive.... Just seems to me the type of work I do I would tear them up pretty quick.... A lot of good information on your video enjoyed it.... Good for the first timers
Weird that your friend couldn't get the R14's, Courtney. My Kubota LX2610SU has Goodyear R14's. Maybe its the size? Mine are 15-19.5. Or supply chain issues?
We all Know this guy "is all about safety........." but here's some advice I HIGHLY recommend for safety that he has never mentioned, go to your local walmart, TSC, tractor dealer and buy a big fire extinguisher, my neighbor just lost a $44,000 JD due to a small fire that spread before the local VFD could get there......While your at it.....buy a first aid kit too. The tractor you save, the life you save could be yours. AND it's cheaper than the insurance deductible!!!!!! Think SAFETY in everything you do
Looking for a sub-compact with a loader and backhoe just for moving dirt, rock and logs at my camp property. The local dealer is Mahindra. Otherwise I would look at other makes. The emax 20S is the only one available. Nobody has the emax 22L or 25L. What are your thoughts on the 20S?
One of the misconceptions that drive me crazy is “that little tractor won’t do anything”
I used bolt on pallet forks and bowed by JD loader-how can it straighten it????
My 1025R had 60 hours when I bought it. No idea why the prior owner traded it in. Maybe wanted larger . . . but his loss was my gain. Does what I need to replace my beloved Ford 640 (1956) that stopped running but owed me nothing after 16 years.
Yeah I just don’t get why all the tractor companies are SOOO SECRETIVE with information?!?! They’re so bad even dealers don’t know about products. It sucks to be frank and I can’t think of any other market that’s like this.
seals on the front axle go with too much weight in the loader (about to do the 3rd set) and you can bend the loader arms.
That logic doesn’t add up. The engineers know how much the loader can lift. So they also know how to appropriately size the related components.
@@GoodWorksTractors the engineers do but the accounts put in the order. Also you forget things like driving into a pile of using the bulldozer function of a 4-in-1 where the whole power of tractor comes into to bear on the loader. If the tractor was stationary and just lifting up and down with correct counter weight you are correct but dynamic load in an uneven paddock is not a stationary load. Try holding a bag of concrete above your head and then swing your arms down - the force is higher than the "Weight" .
I'm currently sitting at 63.5 hours on my 2021 Mahindra emax 20s I bought it for use around my warehouse and have since acquired a 1992 cat 40 series forklift and I split up the uses between both 😅 🙃 I recently took the Mahindra for a drive around the neighborhood just to run it you should have seen the looks I got at the local coffee shop when I stopped for lunch
The reason rear ballast is most important, is the fact that the front end is the fulcrum when lifting with a tractor loader. You have a lighter duty center pivoting support as opposed to the heavy duty solid rear axle that is made to carry weight and is solidly affixed to the tractor. Operators should be prepared to quickly lower the bucket in a tip situation. Years ago, I built an F10 loader that places the weight on the rear end. (The whole thing is set up backwards). We tipped that loader many times but it never tipped left to right because the weight is on the rear end. Similar to ua-cam.com/video/gbCeTs5Juwc/v-deo.htmlsi=Fojp9KJaUnKYJxWo
That was scary… that tip over… Nice save
To those that would ask why you would put hours on a tractor. I have a question why buy a tool just to have it sit. In my business if something isn’t getting used it’s costing you money. It blows my mind to see tractors that are almost 10 years old and only have 50, 60, or maybe 120 hrs
They versa turf tires that I got with my 2025R are made by Carlisle not good year. I have been pleased with the traction they provide while tilling, plowing snow or general ground use with the box blade or logging on my property. I was talking to my dealer a few weeks back and they told me that they couldn't get the versa turf tires due to a shortage. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all watching and commenting on this video.
As far as "Tips & Tricks" go (do you have a thread for this ?), I use color coded tie-raps to label the hydraulic connectors so I get a consistent & working order for the controls. Especially useful when 'borrowing' the loader circuits for rear machinery control (hay mower header lift & tongue swing for example). Up is up and left is left and rotation is as intended !
I’m going to use my brother in laws skid steer attachments on my compact tractor
Give me a break. Tractors are built for this shit.
My only regret with my LS is that I didn't get AG tires
That breaking a loader thing probably comes from some of the older guys who were around when Farmhand came out with the first loaders. Seen a lot of patch plates and welds on those old loaders as they were pretty fragile, but the new loaders are much better made. Not to say that you absolutely can't tweak one though.
do a review of a branson 2515h or 2515r i personally have the h and it a great machine
You’re absolutely correct about everything. Tractors are not indestructible and you will learn your limits. I would say clearing and hauling brush/trees is the hardest on my 2032r. Sticks poking through and busting hydraulic lines. I have a gen 1 2015 2032r with 200hrs. It pretty much sits in the shop but I always need it at least 3 or 4 times a year.
Travis... I picked up a free truck bedliner from a friend two years ago. After an hours work, it made a great underbelly shield for my tractor. Easy on/off with bungie cords.
@@randalmiddleton8068 that’s a good idea. Friend of mine owns a scrapyard. I’ll see if I can find a truck bed insert. Thanks
What is the best snow ice tire. Live in Alaska and need a good tire.
Weight, wheelbase, cab, then horsepower
Thank you Courtney Merry Christmas
Right on the horsepower. That is why there are so many different sizes of attachments in order to meet your hp specs. You need to determine the jobs you have and the size of the machine that will fit those tasks. By size, I mean weight, width, length, and height. This figures into fitting in your tractor to your job area, transport on trailer and storage. By the way, it is true that you CAN'T get R14s on the Grand L series. You can in Kubotas LX series, and I believe smaller models . We tried on our Grand L 3560 earlier this year and it wasn't available. There is a rumor that John Deere bought out production for their 3R and 4R series, and the tire maker (Goodyear) hasn't been able to increase production for the other tractor makes. The best we could do was R4 over the tractor tread, which, of course, is R1.
I looked earlier this year to see if maybe I could get R14s from a tire dealer for my L6060. I never went any further with it but definitely not from the dealer sadly. I have seen the R14 fill up with mud even on my B2601 so I wasn’t certain it was totally worth the cost for me. But I do love them on the 2601.
so, i've got a loader on my MF 241, and when picking up tree trunks, my tri-ribbed front tires are flattening out. what should i be looking for to firm up that situation (higher ply/severe duty/r4/is solid an option?)
More air pressure first but then go to a higher load rating to support the extra load
Correct air pressure should do it, otherwise you maybe lifting more weight than it's designed for? Add weight to the rear of the tractor, it will take weight off the front axle and save a lot of expensive repairs!
I got r14 for my b2601 from the dealer
I sorta agree with you on more horsepower isn’t always better. My recommendation would be to figure out what series or size tractor you need then get the biggest or most horsepower in that series. Example in the JD 4000 series just get the 4066 don’t get the depowered versions. Your paying for a 4000 series tractor just get the most powerful so it can handle any implements that fit it.
Agree but the US government encourages tractor buyers to purchase under powered tractors
IIRC Messick's orders most of thier subcompact Kubotas with R-14s. I recall my salesperson mentioning that when I bought my BX.
One of the biggest misconceptions I have heard is that Kubota is just as good as John Deere.
Kubota's definitely have some mechanical problems, I didn't like the single bucket cylinder to start with, the treadle design was a huge turn off. Bought a Yanmar even though it was many hours away from all the competitors. Best warranty, highest lift capacity and ground clearance, same engine as JD, less money😊
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Depends on what horsepower you’re talking about and a Persons preference.
I’ve never had a kubota compact tractor but their mini excavators are worlds better than Deere.
Just turned 1,025 hrs on my **25R... if I'm not working on a project, I'm going for a ride somewhere lol.
Merry Christmas GWT Courtney and family... our biggie snow isn't too far away, have fun!
Like you said about time, when taken care of these engines will last a very long time. The tractor as a whole will last a very long time. Most people look at hours on tractors but don’t think about the vehicle they drive daily. A car/ truck has way more hours on them by the time they reach 50k, 75k, 100k, or 150k miles. And that’s not adding in idle time for those lovely days where it’s -10 or 100+ degrees outside and we want to be able to get into a comfortable vehicle to escape the climate. Traffic jams, waiting in line at our favorite fast food joint, etc… that engine run time is a hidden add up that’s not tracked nor thought of.
It’s all about how a vehicle is taken care of!
The way I look at it is an hour on a tractor is around 100 kilometres or roughly 60 miles on a car. So if a tractor has done 1000 hours it’s roughly 100k km. Most cars are good for around 300,000 km. Most tractors can easily do 3000 hours but they are definitely second hand by then.
I’m Australian so am used to measuring in kilometres.
Why do you have what appears to be over 250lbs of weight on the front of that tractor with a loader in place!? That seems insane to me having had to rebuild my front end drive train once already from over loading it. For the record I have a 1984 Kubota B8200HST with a 5’ bucket
Tires and rims are a good point with the r4 tires you have flotation and save your yard but no Traction until you get wheel spacers and put tire chains on. To get the ag tires on you need duals to get the same flotation equally especially when they are loaded it would be nice to know from a tire dealer if they can make a wider ag tire in the 24" rim diameter so it's almost the same as the r4 or make a ag tire for a 43×16.00R20 they would make money and we wouldn't have to pay extra for special rims to be made with no waste
Or even get them recapped with ag tread
Did I miss it? I have an old 45 hp MF 150, 2wd. From what I have seen, a 35 hp 4WD tractor can match or beat what my machine can do simply because you have 4 wheels pulling verses two. You can still save money buying 2wd tractors, but it might be smart to compare what pulling power to the ground you have and then buy something at lower hp but with 4WD. Secondly, my old machine has cast iron construction from front to rear and it weighs more than some now days at the same hp. Weight to ground per wheel is what it all adds up to, and of course, as you mentioned, what tire tread a person has matters. Then, how much ground each wheel actually is in contact with the ground matters. That is why you see some tractors with duallies. It might be interesting to figure out how many pounds per square inch you get per wheel and the resultant pulling power is available to do the job. That could end up with some good technical knowledge folks could use to accomplish different types of jobs when they buy a tractor set up.
And speaking of safety, I am on my third 1025R seat belt. The first two didn't latch securely, and would pop loose unexpectedly. Is this a known issue?
Good point about how many hp u need. I have a 25 acre block I have recently cleared about 15 and need to start slashing, a friend reckons the old fellas used to work the area with 30-40hp tractors, but I am thinking of a 90hp JD 6300 with cab, for stability & safety reasons, due to some of the aggressive slopes and terrain on this property, Im not keen on paying for the extra fuel, but I think the safety factors and added abilities of a larger machine greatly out way the considerations of hp and fuel usage. Bigger isn’t always better, but often it is as there is no substitute for a lack of power, an older, larger, half decent machine with many hours, will probably do a safer job, quicker, for my purposes, for many years to come.
About R14 i think Messicks were on a LX3310 if i remember correctly. What i don't understand is that Kubota and Good Year said it was a Kubota exclusive but ive seen them on Kioti and other brands. You even put them on a 4r or 4720 right?
Good video Courtney. What are the headlights on that 1025r you’re sitting on? They look like an LED instead of the stock clear lens.
Tires are a big problem... dealers are only selling 0ne (1) type of tire and won't even get the ones you want, " if you don't want them after delivery, want am I going to do with them "" dealer send them back to the warehouse.... 🙂👍✌🤞🙏🙏🙂
Mike of Outdoors with the Morgans just took delivery of 2 Kabota tractors one smaller tractor and a I think 50+ hp tractor with R14 tires on both.
R14 - Kubota does offer R14, you can view tire options on Kubota's website. Maybe they don't have an option for that size tractor?
Behind on your videos Mr. Courtney …for tires I’d like to know which are best for fescue and hills. We are moving soon hopefully and I will eventually get the weeds to fescue but there’s some hills on it that I won’t be able to go sideways with the 1025R. The stock Carlisle Trac Chief that originally came with the tractor was fluid filled and tearing up the current yard on turns in some areas. I had requested no fluid and ended up with new tires as the tractor and maybe twenty hours on it. I had also driven it to the dealership about three miles down the road. The salesman said driving on the asphalt was really bad and I pointed out he told me to do it. He had to reimburse me for the fluid I didn’t want but was automatically charged. He also never told me about the need for ballast weight where I learned from you and a couple of the websites you mentioned by the way. Next time it goes in to the shop, I will have to pay for fluid to be put in. Our closest Rimguard is down in SC so a no go for me. If I had to buy my first tractor again, I’d definitely go to the different sites and of course watch your videos, seems I could have had better equipment than what I’ve purchased. Thank you so much for educating me!
Your buddy he might be right. When I talk to dealerships, they haven’t rolled out every size tire yet so for that particular tractor tire size in R14 may not be available yet. He can always ask the dealership when they think they might roll that size out. I was looking into a L 4701 and they don’t offer the R14 tires in that size tractor yet hopefully this year when they bring L4702 they were offered the R14 in that tire size at that time.
I definitely want to know how to find the R14T tires. No Goodyear tractor tire dealer I've talked to seems to know anything about them. My local Kubota dealer nor my local Deere dealer knows anything about them. I want a set for my 2520 Deere.
I thought that sounded weird also that R14s weren't available on the L6060, but according to the kubota website build function, only R1, R3 & R4s are available on that model. Also checked the L3560 (lowest in that series) and it's the same. But - they *are* available on the standard L series. It seems there's no figuring what these companies decide to do!
I'm not sure if it's the case or not. A traditional style geared tractor and shuttle shift drive trains had the most hydraulic strength vs. a hydrostatic drive the few times when a dealer offer's drive train options. This is from the hydrostatic using the same hydraulic pump for drive train and loader/remote work. I believe that newer (2010 to now) tractors have larger pumps to accommodate the difference.
I bought a 1997 John Deere 855 with 3,200 hours and still looks like new runs perfect. Best tractor I've had
I have an 04 Grand Prix with over 4,500 hrs engine run time according to the information display. I haven’t used the car to move piles of dirt lately or run a tiller but the little V6 isn’t built like a diesel engine either.
She still runs great though! Just saying.
Thanks for the video as always!! One more time, What is your relationship with summit? Do they give you any kind of compensation?
L6066. 9.5x16 and 14.9x26 standard size. Titan international has tours close to stock size but you would need a new wheel. I have always found it better to search the tire companies websites for tires than a forum, though there is great info there
What is the situation at the 4:14 time stamp with the drone view of the tiller ? Looks like a significant angle between tiller axis and tractor axis. Is this a secret to make the tiller more effective or is there some other situation going on here ? 3pt links are different length ? lateral supports left loose so the tiller can dodge occasional rocks or roots ? Just curious. Mine does the same thing. BTW: in spring when my gravel driveway was mushy after a thaw, I used my tiller to 'freshen' the gravel layer, them comb it with my landscape rate. Just as good as new gravel application. From constant use, the gravel tends to sink & disperse. The tiller brings it back to the top.
Love my R4s John Deere 3038E in Australia where it never snows so traction has been a non issue. Even in mud in the winter.
Tractor Time With Tim would say ...not so fast on the 4 series JD for your new place. You can do everything you need with a 1025 (within limits). Just give that a go for awhile and then decide how much bigger you need. If I had just 20 acres I would be happy with a 1025 or similar but with 110 acres I needed the larger tractor and more $$$ for every single implement to get done all of my chores quicker and easier.
I have a 1023e and I love it. Would I have liked a 1025r ? Absolutely, but this tractor gets it done. The heaviest work it does is splitting firewood with one run off the power beyond. I didn't buy it to run in parades, I bought it to work and, so far, no matter what I've thrown at it, it always comes through.
A good seat matters.
I have averaged 165 hr/ yr with L3901 2018 Kubota on a new property but will likely reduce by 25% moving forward. The L3902 is available now and would be a logical update; creating an excellent used low hour trade in.
My theory is the guys who worry about putting hours on their tractors don't understand diesel engines and more than likely were into older gasoline powered garden tractors. Those engines in those machines where barely 1500 to 2000hr engines, so a lot of the older kohler and onan engines get a bad rap because they were well used way past what they were meant to be run. 300 hrs on those tractors 20% of the life used up, 300 hrs on a diesel your just barely breaking it in.
I have a 2012 4005 series John Deere I love it I've got just over 1,200 hours right now
The R14's are very much available. I saw them on a MX5400 this summer. I asked my dealer, and he said they would go right on the L6060. Maybe not "goodyear", but they are available.
I had an old Kubota L3130 on a big frame. It did everything we needed to do, but developed maintenance issues. When we sold it and bought a new one, I had to jump to a Kubota L4701 just to have the lifting capacity with the loader to manage large round bales. I knew I didn't need the horsepower, but it was the smallest Kubota with enough lift capacity. The old L3130 had the same loader as the L4701 (the new one is a bit stronger). I agree with the comment about horsepower.
My kubota dealer told me when I bought my tractor that for the r14 it would cost 200$ to 400$ per tire more
Can you tell me about the mat your tractor is parked on? Is it for water, oil,etc to protect floor? Where can it be purchased from & approx cost?
great vid :)