Edelrid Ohm: (large) man's best friend
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
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I just want to mention here that I got the Ohm 2 for top roping with my wife outdoors and it works significantly well. I’m around 148 lbs and my wife around 102 lbs. When I fall or even get lowered, my wife is dragged to the wall and lifted by the rope as she lowers me. This was manageable, but could be better, which is what the Ohm did. She doesn’t move at all when I fall or get lowered. It has given us both peace of mind while top roping outdoors.
In our gym they don't allow ohms, so when belaying me Mrs Mullet's tied to 2 big weight bags. Needless to say it keeps me from falling too far but it's really rough on her. She gets lifted up and can't lower me cos she's floating with these bags swinging around. The ohm removes all that
I outweigh my wife by 50 pounds, so the Ohm seemed like a good idea, but we stopped using it for outdoor climbs. If the second bolt is not directly above the first bolt, it makes the Ohm lock up very easily, both while leading and lowering. On one 20m climb, it locked up 9 times, and it was difficult to get it to unlock.
I teach climbing at a gym and had two students with a significant weight difference taking practice falls, and they liked how the Ohm performed - because the bolts were in a very straight line.
That's a great point. Edelird says the belayer should stand 1m back but that's a simplification. Really it's the angle of the rope running in& out of the ohm that engages it. You get resistance like you mentioned if the next bolt is to the side, but also on steep climbs where it's further Forward.
I haven't measured the actual angle it needs but when I get the ohm 2 I want to try that
Awesome device, and great to see a few other products (and an updated Ohm) are being released onto the market - I definately reckon things like ABD/grigri style belay devices, gloves, long clipsticks and these friction devices make weight mis-matched climbing partnerships much less stressful for everyone. I have found they can be a bit sensitive to the angle through the device (eg. if there is a sharp deviation around the first quickdraw they can be a bit 'bitey' and there seems to be a learning curve for leader to not accidetly activate the device when pulling up rope for a clip, and for the belayer to 'flick' the rope out of the friction groove after a fall when the climber resumes). I should probably use it more often, unfortunately it seems to spend a lot of time at the bottom of the bag. Shouldn't have as many issues on straight up routes (eg. gym climbing, more vertical/straight up sports routes) - interesting to see it get used for trad !
I've never had a problem with the ohm dragging, but if the route is steep then I can see it happening because your belayer is creating a tighter angle on the rope if they stand 1m back.
I've got another device, the Zaed, which is really innovative but ultimately not as good cos you can't use it for a first draw, so they say, and in Oz the second bolt can be pretty bloody high
I personally got rid of mine. The rope will be caught unexpectedly if you clip too fast, and in steep routes it has the tendency to get set too easily. Your belayer must always watch it (on top of watching you) and must often wiggle the rope to get it released. So your belayer must be very experienced to use it properly. It gave me more troubles than benefits.
But if you try the new version I'll be curious to check the improvement they made and why not giving it another try.
Interesting! I've never had a problem with that myself. Are you mostly climbing steep stuff? I guess the rope feed will be affected if it's pulling more outward on the climber's end
@@MountainMulletYou're exactly right, when you pull the rope outwards that's where it's the most affected. And I don't only climb steep stuff, I had issues in all kind of inclination. But I think it was mainly because my wife at that time didn't have much belay experience and couldn't handle it correctly. The day I said stop was at the gym in a very steep route, I couldn't clip any single draw.
Thank you for your video. I also tend to be on the right end side of the climbers' weight gaussian (!!) so Edelrid Ohm became a good friend to me in many situations. What I find tricky is lowering: very often the Ohm locks and makes it difficult (if not impossible) being lowered in moulinette. Do you have any suggestion/trick to avoid these problems?
moulinette is top rope? It sometimes helps to add another express sling to the ohm to let the rope run with less acute angles, but this helps with leading more. You could try attaching the ohm to your harness via a PAS so that way you can reach out and control it, but that's quite annoying to climb with