PINCH the Talk with Johnny Korthuis | EDELRID
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- We took advantage of Johnny Korthuis's recent visit, seating him with Daniel, Head of Innovation at EDELRID, to discuss the creation history of the PINCH.
Dive into the full unfiltered conversation with Johnny and Daniel - an exclusive, behind-the-scenes glimpse into the making of our innovative product!
Chapters:
00:00 - 03:45 Introduction
03:45 - 06:29 Brake assistance and geometry
06:30 - 10:09 Braking force and anecdotal experiences
10:10 - 11:28 Where Daniel lives and German engineering
11:29 - 15:34 Innovation and development
15:35 - 20:59 PINCH: direct-to-harness attachment and locking mechanism
21:00 - 28:07 Prototyping and development
28:08 - 30:59 PINCH certifications
31:00 - 38:19 PINCH: antipanic function and more
38:20 - 39:26 Conclusion
Discover the PINCH, including FAQs, here: edelrid.com/eu-en/professiona... - Спорт
It's nice to get a glimpse on the product development 👍
What were the feedbacks from your athletes : what changes did you make after they used it in the field ?
Is it now Tommy's and Siebe's go-to device for their adventures ?
Feels like it could be opened by accident pretty sure. Exited for @HardIsEasy testing it!
The opening mechanism requires a multiway action: swing open the side plate whilst pushing the button at the same time.
Furthermore, the geometry of the side plates prevents from accidentally opening the device under load even if you manage to press the button. You can optionally use a carabiner as a backup using direct attachment method, or chose the conventional method using a locking carabiner.
Of course, the device is field- and lab for both attachment methods. Each of the methods can have its advantage, and since the PINCH offers both, it is up to the user to decide whether the direct attachment or the conventional method suits best.
Check out our tutorial video on basic functions of the PINCH here: ua-cam.com/video/T0vVi-0U8jw/v-deo.html
You must not know how much engineering and research and development work goes into each of the products that Edelrid manufacturers. If you see the cool “e” logo on any piece of kit, then you can trust your life, and your best friends life with it! Best gear on the market right now and I’m not sponsored or even get a discount on their products but I’m happy to pay full price because they’re simply the best.
Yeah but they also sell a belay carabiner with just the slider locking mechanism... which I used for about 6 months and yet I still didn't get past the point of worrying it could get knocked open during a violent lead fall, like if I was tied to a hanging belay while multipitching and got slammed into the wall. I could simulate it opening way too easy, and that made me constantly second guess the decision to use it. Everybody can make their own decisions about what devices feel safe enough to them, and I no longer use slider carabiners for single-point failures while climbing. I feel similar to the pinch, where the device looks great otherwise but I would opt for clipping a backup carabiner through it while belaying with the direct attachment to the belay loop.
As a German RAT I really want this device getting certified for the EN and DIN please !
I really fancy getting one of these for sport climbing. I think the ability to give a slightly longer armful of rope and the lower "grabbiness" than the device no-one wants to name could make for a more relaxed belay. Edelrid do make cool and innovative stuff.
It does look pretty easy to open though. Around 36:30 I think you see it when it's not under load it can be comfortably opened without the device being rotated on the belay loop. I think this question is on many people's minds: is there a rare failure mode where it could unintentionally open?
There's the option to back it up with a carabiner from side to side, there's room for it when its on the belay loop directly
@@sheepborg I get the backup of a carabiner when attached to the belay loop. But that shouldn't be necessary to feel safe.
@@RajGiandeep Necessity is a matter of opinion. I prefer not to use double action autolock carabiners because i consider them too easy to unclip vs a traditional screw gate or at least a triple action. Risk profile is going to be different for everybody, and at this point I honestly dont know how the Pinch feels directly on the belay loop. May feel safe, may not. If the pinch handles better than a grigri but feels sketchy in direct I'd go through the trouble to back it up, but if it doesnt handle better than a grigri it's probably not worth getting in the first place. I do wonder if the edges of the device would result in accelerated wear to the belay loop compared to round stock carabiners...
36:30 is exactly what I was concerned about... that seems less than ideal. Can't wait until someone like Hard Is Easy gets their hands on one.
Could you cover the different certifications and their direct use, would you need to tie off the Pinch in a rope access scenario? would it require a carabiner in that context to tie off on the spine? I notice on the website its currently only got the certification as a belay device but not the rope positioning (descender) cert yet. When I think of a rope position device I think of a device that I can let go of the rope once i'm in position. A competitor of the pinch that many climbers currently use is used on occasion by route setters and climbers in a way it's not designed to be used. Does the pinch solve this problem, by when using the correct rope diameter, not require a hand on the braking strand?
-A would be buyer of the PINCH when it's available if I can find an answer to its hybrid idea as a rope positioning/belay device
Check out our website for a detailed description of the certifications:
EN 15151-1 avs.edelrid.com/images/attribut/EN_15151-1.pdf
EN 12841-C avs.edelrid.com/images/attribut/EN_12841.pdf
Regarding tying off the PINCH:
No. In rope access the PINCH is certified for ropes 10.0 - 10.5mm. A very small amount of rope weight is already enough to activate the camming function. Regarding your second question, can you please explain what you mean?
I appreciate the follow up@@edelrid My 2nd question was because the PINCH (which is comparable to some similar belay device and work positioning devices that use a cam) seems to be the hybrid between the two.
Does that mean if hanging from a static rope appropriate to the device's certification, with a backup device in use on a separate rope, could this be used hands free when not in motion or would you advise a knot to block the device?
Im really looking forward to holding it in my own hands. I aprecciate the ingenuity that went into this.
But next time i would like the Guest to take more time to listen and not talk over David all the time. Hes the one with the in depth knowledge after all.
Still looks like it could open by accident. I prefer the design they dropped with the 3-motion system
But the handling for mp would be much more complicated
The opening mechanism requires a multiway action: swing open the side plate whilst pushing the button at the same time.
Furthermore, the geometry of the side plates prevents from accidentally opening the device under load even if you manage to press the button. You can optionally use a carabiner as a backup using direct attachment method, or chose the conventional method using a locking carabiner.
Of course, the device is field- and lab for both attachment methods. Each of the methods can have its advantage, and since the PINCH offers both, it is up to the user to decide whether the direct attachment or the conventional method suits best.
Check out our tutorial video on basic functions of the PINCH here: ua-cam.com/video/T0vVi-0U8jw/v-deo.html
Great video thanks! When will this be available in North America?
The PINCH will be available in Spring 2024!
20:00 Still looks possible to open by accident
There's plenty of room to slap a carabiner in there side to side as a backup. No weight benefit at that point (with no biner its the weight of a grigri 3 with a light biner), but it lets you use the device in the low position with 0 possibility of opening.
I wonder how hard the button is to press and why they didn’t at least recess it and make it a bit smaller.
@@Mike-oz4cvyou don't that much for to press it. But it is not opening imminently as soom you press the button. There is also a chance that the rope is blocking the door. I had it in my hands and when I saw it, I had the same doubts, than I'm used it and though by my self, that it is almost impossible to open it by accident.
Well. "Almost impossible" is not really the thing you want to hear when trusting your live.
@@Headbucket I just said almost because nothing is 100% even a binder on a grigri can be opened by accident. And at the end you can use a carabiner on the pinch. Edelrid is always going the save way and that's why I think that it is save. But try to get it im your hands. I know it is a strange feeling, but maybe just a new way
Thanks for all the information 😊!
My partner and I will start Trad Climbing this summer and I would love to hear what belay device you recommend considering she weight 50kg and I am 73kg! we would like a break assisted device that allows for some slippage. It sounds like one of the Jul devices could be a good option? Thanks
There is no slip with brake assist devices. Probably best to train dynamic belaying for belaying her and get an ohm for belaying you.
But for trad, I wouldn’t use the Ohm in case the placement rips. Better to make an anchor for your partner belaying you (upward pull cam).
Or put some weight in a backpack. See juraclimbs latest video for belaying with weight differences.
💚 🖤❤💛 i love overengineering,why on the inside don't you make the harness loop sit on a semicircle to distribute the weight over a larger surface to avoid wear in one place ?
The inner edges of the harness attachment point of the device are very smooth and designed in a way, that there will not be any wear on either the belay loop nor the device. The device is further of course field- and lab tested for this application. The way it is designed now is due to strength reasons, manufacturing reasons as well as to accommodate both a conventional attachment method and the direct-to-harness attachment method.
This was my primary question on how it unlocks once attached & thanks for showing it.
ua-cam.com/video/hpBRguSAJM4/v-deo.html
^ Can you do a short video showing the same process with a Carabiner?
Still ... seems like you could open it by accident while in use, since the device isn't always under tension.
It’s also that which worries me. Probably won’t buy it cause this issue
Just try it by yourself, I had the same doubts :)
The opening mechanism requires a multiway action: swing open the side plate whilst pushing the button at the same time.
Furthermore, the geometry of the side plates prevents from accidentally opening the device under load even if you manage to press the button. You can optionally use a carabiner as a backup using direct attachment method, or chose the conventional method using a locking carabiner.
Of course, the device is field- and lab for both attachment methods. Each of the methods can have its advantage, and since the PINCH offers both, it is up to the user to decide whether the direct attachment or the conventional method suits best.
Check out our tutorial video on basic functions of the PINCH here: ua-cam.com/video/T0vVi-0U8jw/v-deo.html
would be cool to have some timemarks to the priorities.
We will add them!