![Mountain Mullet](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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Mountain Mullet
Australia
Приєднався 5 вер 2022
All about bolting rock climbs, with a focus on rotary hammer performance & the mechanics of putting bolts in rock.
This is a companion channel to Boltah Downunder, where I ramble about drills and shit.
I'm an Aussie climber who's been almost exclusively focused on route development for almost a decade. I may not climb hard any more, but I climb lots, and explore lots, and fuck around even more.
Find more rotary hammer drill science than you ever wanted here at Boltah Downunder:
ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html
This is a companion channel to Boltah Downunder, where I ramble about drills and shit.
I'm an Aussie climber who's been almost exclusively focused on route development for almost a decade. I may not climb hard any more, but I climb lots, and explore lots, and fuck around even more.
Find more rotary hammer drill science than you ever wanted here at Boltah Downunder:
ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html
Edelrid Ohm 2 vs Ohm 1
Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping climbers all over get better hardware on their walls.
For in-depth rotary hammer stuff, check out my other channel, Boltah Downunder: ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html
I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks from tool companies. I’m just a guy who wants to know how these tools perform, and figure you do too. You can chip in here, it'll be hugely appreciated:
paypal.me/BoltahDownunder?country.x=AU&locale.x=en_AU
www.patreon.com/Boltah?fan_landing=true
Support your local access climbing fund! Or mine: www.qldclimb.org.au
Cheers!
For in-depth rotary hammer stuff, check out my other channel, Boltah Downunder: ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html
I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks from tool companies. I’m just a guy who wants to know how these tools perform, and figure you do too. You can chip in here, it'll be hugely appreciated:
paypal.me/BoltahDownunder?country.x=AU&locale.x=en_AU
www.patreon.com/Boltah?fan_landing=true
Support your local access climbing fund! Or mine: www.qldclimb.org.au
Cheers!
Переглядів: 617
Відео
That ain't supposed to happen! Climbing bolt failure
Переглядів 32214 днів тому
Can climbing bolts just fall out!? Here we do an in-depth failure mode analysis of a recent climbing bolt catastrophic failure. These are very rare but can happen, so let's see what might have happened and how it can be prevented in future. This was a flush head sleeve bolt and i show how to remove these in the last video. Usually, these are not possible to simply pull out, so the particular ci...
How to remove flush head sleeve bolts (3 ways)
Переглядів 537Місяць тому
Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping climbers all over get better hardware on their walls. For in-depth rotary hammer stuff, check out my other channel, Boltah Downunder: ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks from tool companies. I’m just a guy who wants to know how...
Drill bits for rock: Bosch Expert vs no-name
Переглядів 6712 місяці тому
Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping climbers all over get better hardware on their walls. For in-depth rotary hammer stuff, check out my other channel, Boltah Downunder: ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks from tool companies. I’m just a guy who wants to know how...
Xinda quickdraws: are they safe, or YGD?
Переглядів 3632 місяці тому
Back with some more Xinda climbing gear to see how strong it is. This quickdraw has ratings like normal gear but it's not actually compliant with the regular standards, for reasons i cover here. So can you trust climbing gear from Aliexpress? Does Xinda make good climbing gear? YGD?? Let's find out! Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping cl...
Camnal vs Petzl removable bolts
Переглядів 5832 місяці тому
So here pull test the Camnal 12mm removable bolt. This is a Chinese gear company's "version" of the Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm removable bolt, and is basically a straight copy. But how strong is it? Is it worth buying a cheaper bolt? YGD?? Let's find out! Smash that subscribe button! It doesn’t cost a thing and will help me out a lot. I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks ...
Petzl Coeur Pulse New vs Old
Переглядів 1,2 тис.3 місяці тому
How good are the Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm removable bolts? Here we compare the old version with the new version, and also pull test one! the old one. They're pretty durable and damn strong so let's see how good they are. For in-depth rotary hammer stuff, check out my other channel, Boltah Downunder: ua-cam.com/channels/88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA.html Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it ...
Epoxy putty: Can you use it for anchoring bolts?
Переглядів 3943 місяці тому
Epoxy putty: Can you use it for anchoring bolts?
Xinda 16kN carabiners: are they for climbing?
Переглядів 6194 місяці тому
Xinda 16kN carabiners: are they for climbing?
Building a budget tension pull tester rig!
Переглядів 1694 місяці тому
Building a budget tension pull tester rig!
Petzl Pulse ripoff: No name removable bolts from Chinese shopping website
Переглядів 2,6 тис.5 місяців тому
Petzl Pulse ripoff: No name removable bolts from Chinese shopping website
Edelrid Ohm: (large) man's best friend
Переглядів 1,4 тис.5 місяців тому
Edelrid Ohm: (large) man's best friend
Bosch GBH18V 22 any good for drilling rock? Vs GBH 18V-21
Переглядів 13 тис.7 місяців тому
Bosch GBH18V 22 any good for drilling rock? Vs GBH 18V-21
EN959: what does it mean for bolting rock climbs?
Переглядів 2677 місяців тому
EN959: what does it mean for bolting rock climbs?
Fixe D Belay Station deep dive [DEEP]
Переглядів 2988 місяців тому
Fixe D Belay Station deep dive [DEEP]
Milwaukee M18BH/2612: Any good for bolting rock? (vs M12CH/2416)
Переглядів 4829 місяців тому
Milwaukee M18BH/2612: Any good for bolting rock? (vs M12CH/2416)
Construction bolts in climbing? Hobson Tygabolt test + strength theory
Переглядів 39711 місяців тому
Construction bolts in climbing? Hobson Tygabolt test strength theory
Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]
Переглядів 12 тис.Рік тому
Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]
Can you drill limestone without a rotary hammer drill?
Переглядів 2,6 тис.Рік тому
Can you drill limestone without a rotary hammer drill?
Trying out the Fixe anchor configurator
Переглядів 151Рік тому
Trying out the Fixe anchor configurator
Schmidt hammer: estimating sandstone compressive strength
Переглядів 265Рік тому
Schmidt hammer: estimating sandstone compressive strength
DeWalt DCH172: Any good for rock bolting?
Переглядів 17 тис.Рік тому
DeWalt DCH172: Any good for rock bolting?
Drilling stone without a hammer drill?
Переглядів 17 тис.Рік тому
Drilling stone without a hammer drill?
Dirtbag pull testing: cheap load cells!
Переглядів 430Рік тому
Dirtbag pull testing: cheap load cells!
You should try to use fast setting cement, ideal for remote locations and should be strong enough.
Ohm2 also works well on top rope belaying
What is the weight differential between you and the belayer?
For us it's 100% or 50kg
I added a swivel to the ohm 1 between the device and the quick draw, works great, no need to think while on the wall.
Wich swivel did u use and how did u connect it?
Genius!
After 1 minutes of continuous use. It will decrease speed to 75% atleast. I think it's doing some kind of temp protection.
Great analysis. Thanks for the video. Is rebolting not currently banned on Tibro?
Sure is! They're supposedly working out a permit system to do that kind of work, but who knows when it'll be up and running. Hopefully incidents like this encourage the land managers to get it sorted soon
I am considering getting it. I got a hard catch on the gen 2 ohm yesterday and it tweaked my back.
Worth a try! but also see what your belayer is doing. Stephan from RAED & I did some tests and worked out the belayer needs to move differently with the different devices. They need to give a hard catch to get similar results with the ZAED. The ohm just catches hard regardless
@@MountainMulletjust ordered it. Looking forward to using it.
But, it's nexesesary to put the rope in the element during climbing? May it could ve pass trhour after climb?
It's easier to install the rope before or after you climb
Again one of your excellent tests! Here in Europe Bosch 4-cutter bits are slightly cheaper (I bought one recently at less than 8 euros, that is about 13 AU$ so maybe buying "cheap" bits is less convenient. Anyway I'll try to replicate your test with EU-budget bits to see if there are any differences.
I've been collecting bits to test and this is really a pilot experiment to see how much drilling I might need to do. Lots, it turns out! I've also done this with some 2 cutter bits which generally drill faster but less neatly
Thank you for your video. I also tend to be on the right end side of the climbers' weight gaussian (!!) so Edelrid Ohm became a good friend to me in many situations. What I find tricky is lowering: very often the Ohm locks and makes it difficult (if not impossible) being lowered in moulinette. Do you have any suggestion/trick to avoid these problems?
moulinette is top rope? It sometimes helps to add another express sling to the ohm to let the rope run with less acute angles, but this helps with leading more. You could try attaching the ohm to your harness via a PAS so that way you can reach out and control it, but that's quite annoying to climb with
Ah, great to see some more details on this incident - there's also a end user report on the ACAR website.
Oh yeah report linked in description!
Thank you for your videos. In your opinion, how does this compare with Makita drills dhr 171/182/183 in terms of easyness of use while bolting bottom-up routes? Intended use would be mostly drilling 10 mm holes in limestone/gneiss/quarzite/granite.
They're all suitable for that. The 171 is probably the easiest to control due to its lower RPM, but really any of those will work well. It's really a very small difference between them so maybe go into a store and hold them and see which one feels best for you!
Thank you for your great videos! Given the fact that, as you say, this drill is conceived for a two-hands use, do you think it would be too difficult to use it for bottom-up bolting (that is, drilling with one hand while climbing)?
Nah it's fine once you get used to it. In fact the pistol style handle is designed for drilling upwards so if you're doing steep work it's ideal
2 of them in opposite directions seems good for a lower off to me. The ones I've seen are not welded at that point e.g. brand Wichard, their 10mm ones are rated for 2500kg each (2 of them and I'm totally happy)
パワーあるけど モーターの耐久性がなさそう
Speed dealer or sleeve dealer?
I've got as many sleeves as you want but no spare speed😎
I WANT TO MAKE A CLIMBING WALL - MY HOUSE'S TALL SIDE IS A 5 METER WALL/ CINDER BLOCK - I WAS GIVEN 2 WEDGE BOLT STAINLESS 12 MM WITH ANCHOR HANGER -- CAN I DO THIS ?
Thanks for doing this awesome testing Matt! Making a smooth concise video on it and sharing some great feedback. I think inexpensive bits have their place, like for people that don't mind carrying a few more bits, or don't wanna spend more money on some special-sized bits they might only use a couple times. Pros and cons to things.--- One thing I do with these bits is use the older ones (with more worn-down cutters) to drill more depth of the hole, then I chase it with a fresher/newer bit to get my desired hole size; (this is with 4-cutters though).
What type of sleeve bolts are those?
Hobson brand, from Australia
Do you have any more tips for preserving drill bits? The rock I am bolting in is *extremely* hard (itabirite, it's a mix of quartzite and hematite/iron ore), to the point that I end up burning 1 or more drill bit for every hole (while in other types of rock they last dozens of holes), and take like 5-6 minutes to make a 70x10mm hole. I wonder if a stronger drill instead of a 18v hammer drill would help make better use of the drill bits in such hard rock. Other tips as well are really appreciated!
I've drilled lots of very pure quartzite and the help for very hard stuff is: More carbide (full carbide tips), More impact force (bigger drill, less drill time), More cooling (hard to do but you can wait or bring a water bottle and dip the bit in). The best bits for my really hard stuff were Bosch 2 cutters that had a full carbide tip. I don't know if they still make them. But if you're dealing with iron I don't know what can really do it well. Maybe accept maybe 50mm deep or try a diamond core bit?
@@MountainMullet thanks, this is all very helpful! I'll look for full carbide tips, this is a great suggestion. Do you think a 36v hammer drill (makita has a couple that take 2 of the 18v batteries I already have) would be helpful here? I have a DHR 182, and a DHR 281 seems to have a much higher impact force. We already rotate drill bits to not let them heat up too much, but dipping the bit in water is a great suggestion. And we do use shorter bolts in 50mm holes whenever the rock is the absolute hardest variant we have over there!
Looks like the dhr281 hits very hard and would probably help, but if you need to go that big... Maybe consider a different strategy, like Trad climbing😂 sounds like a LOT of work to bolt this stuff
@@MountainMullet yeah, there's definitely a few famous trad routes in this rock here! We're now trying to open the routes that you can't protect well with trad equipment. Thanks for the suggestions! Will try these ideas out!
What I don't like about Bosch drilling bits is the flutes are too narrow. Especially if I am doing some sketchy shit like lead climbing and placing anchors, the drill bit gets stuck because of the dust. From my experience, drilling bits with wider flutes like Erbauer and Hikoki (my favourites) are better that Bosch, Hilti, etc.
That's what I'm looking for! I don't have either of those brands but I am collecting many bits to test. I can see flute size will affect longevity a few different ways, if you have any other insights keep it coming!
@@MountainMullet I used Hikoki drilling bits for like a year, the seem to be fragile, but it holds better than expected. They slso drill faster and 25% more holes. Faster is not always better, but in my opinion it is better to be as efficient as possible because you don't risk to make the hole oval and you also put less impact time on the rock = less cracks. Erbauer is my second favourite, I mainly like it because the 6.5mm one drills the perfect hole for 6mm concrete screws. Your video with drilling bits from like a year ago was very helpful, I got the same results :)
Awesome! I'll try to find those bits. And if you're drilling 6mm then the flutes and friction will be very important. I'm collecting 10mm bits which don't fill up so quickly, but I also have some smaller ones I can test
@@MountainMullet I am drilling in the 6-12 mm range for anchors, 6mm is only for screws :) Sometimes I am drilling 40cm long holes and other times 14-16mm for rock spliters, this is why I tested a lot of bits :))
never occurred to me that the hole width would be getting smaller .it might be why i have had trouble at times . good info ,thankyou
In my Asia Country only have the previous Bosch Gen 4 cutters , Bosch 5X Quality is so fine compared to the price , but i have burned down 2 bits because too hot 😂 i didn't cooler the bit between each holes so in the end the tip cutter dropped out the bits 😂 same for my Hilti CX4 ,
Good info! I have many bits that I need to test somehow, and this was a first test but they lasted too long. Do you know roughly how many holes you got with your burned bits? I need to burn them out quicker cos 30 holes is too much
@@MountainMullet I don't remember exactly , but around 30-40 holes on hard rock with Bosch 5X , Hilti lasted longer a bit around 45-50 , all my burned out bits were 6mm , with me that is ok i just hardcore test them 😂 if i had cooler them each some holes , that burned out wouldn't have happend too soon The small diameters made the drill bits difficult to push all the dust out of the holes so the temparature had increased very quickly, lead to the burned soon But before the Bit burned out , my body and battery had run out of juice 😂 too tired to test in a long time I made with my Makita DHR182 and 6Ah battery came apart
Yeah 6mm is so tight they will heat up real fast! I have many 10mm bits like this to test, but 40 holes for 40 bits is just too much drilling so I guess I'll do less holes and measure them
@@MountainMulletbefore all the bits burn out , your drill and battery will have run out of juice already , so i thinh just carry one on your climbing moutain journey , make the holes again and again with it till burn out instead of drilling each holes each bits man , change the bits too much can wear out the Sds chuck quickly But instead of testing till the bits burn out , just cooler it each holes so it can last longer , that just fine than try to destroy it soon
Given that it's the carbide insert that has worn, this looks like something that could be solved with shop cryotreatment.
But for how long does it blow? And which charging standard?
I picked up the same unit after climbing taiwans video. Bolted a few routes already with it and im loving the little guy. Perfect little guy for cleaning holes and small amounts of dirt
Yeah it's been super handy so far for that kind of stuff! Exactly what I've always wanted. I do expect the dust to kill it but am experimenting with protection there
2300 it starts to deform, I say it's good. (If it's 2300 kgs)
Link?
Fr
I updated the description
that thing is sick!
I don't expect it to last very long blowing concrete dust but for cleaning electronics etc it's brilliant
Have you used it to blow dirt and rock off holds during cleaning?
Yeah it's great for that!
Is this strong?
Yes
And for climbing you need to add the rope drag weights.
They are not cheaper than affordable products from european manufacturers (at least in my country), I don't see them conquering Europe (at least for now), but on other markets it can be a good option for making climbing more accessible
Not cheaper here either. I think in China they go for about 1/3 the price, so probably better for people in the Asia markets
Nice Video. I leave an Abonnement here. 🤟
I don't think I would enjoy how floppy they are but it's still nice to see that they do in fact hold what they claim in case I run into them in the field. Thanks for getting into the Chinese stuff.
Gotta admit I was nervous about that sling when I first climbed with it! But yeah seems pretty good so far
When I was using the Ohm, I was clipping the rope into it before I stared climbing. This way, I just had to clip the Ohm into the first bolt with the rope already installed into it. I think the same can be done with the Zaed.
Correct: the rope is installed into ZÆD while being at the bottom of the climb, not while hanging in the route. Once you take off the ground all you do is clip it to the first bolt.
Loving your videos mate! Keep up the good work
Cheers mate!
Recently re-watched this one since we're in the process of sourcing sleeve anchors. So that A4-70 hex tap bolt that Hobson is using is from the Chinese manufacturer Aozhan, their symbol being 3 peaks. Also China manufactures that style of threaded-cone. Regarding the sleeve origin, I do not know, perhaps Hobson is manufacturing it themselves or having an overseas manufacture make it. Aozhan themselves do QC and testing, they're a massive manufacturer, & their reports can be requested.
Hobson also has trace numbers on their boxes, but the reports are just for measurement not strength. One of my boxes for example: www.hobson.com.au/testcert/2010511798 Signature is Chinese so I assume they have some factory there that makes these for them. They also have factories here but I don't know what they make in them
Thanks Matt for the nice review and reflection, and of course testing! Definitely not Petzl quality; and not for everybody, but they have their place. I'll actually choose the other Chinese-made ones I've been getting that are red/black, orange/black over Camnals, the pricing is better but also there's for variety of diameters/lengths.
The variety of sizes is really going to help these get adopted more. I really took to these things because I'm already drilling,12mm holes but I know a lot of developers don't
I'd be curious to see one pulled in sheer. I've got a set of the camnal and a set of the petzl ones. I also find the camnals don't fit as well in the hole. They're pretty annoying to get out sometimes. I tend to stick to the petzl ones
We did one of these Camnal in shear, got 33.48kN, we even proof-loaded it first. Test and further explanation why they're tricky to get in/out in my recent video on them, but also in our initial Review. One reason for that problematic fit has to do with the movable tabs not being able to fully retract as well, which could be remedied by wallowing the bottom of the hole a tad. Search for BREAK TEST: Camnal 12mm Removable Bolt, made in China. There's been other removables in the China market now that I like more than Camnal's.
Do you find the camnal wear faster? I have another one that I kept intact to actually use in the field but haven't been using it enough to get a good idea yet
I'm really happy that i'm not your neighbour ;)
Haha definitely! Although my neighbours say they don't mind I try to keep this to a minimum, maybe doing some testing every couple of months
Only Bosch would release a tool that perfomce worse than the predecessor
Had a block of quartz and I wound up breaking my Dewalt impact drill trying to drill into in. 😬
Ouch. If you don't have a rotary hammer you'll need to use a diamond core bit or something like that. Check out what's available for drilling granite bench tops and that sort of thing
I need to remove one expansion bolt from the Transmission Mount, since I want to replace that mount. In the car 2003 Chevy Cavalier, the Transmission Mount is attached to the subframe with 3-4 usual bolts and one expansion bolt, which is located at the center of the mount. No films about that process in details, but I saw one film where the author broke that expansion bolt on Chevy Transmission Mount. Please could you tell if the procedure of the removal of the expansion bolt on a car would be the same, as in this film? Do I also need those special tools to remove it? I have a Shop Manual for that car, and on the replacement of the Transmission Mount they don't say about any special tools, just say: Remove the Expansion Bolt, then remove other bolts. I would appreciate any opinion on this matter. Thank you for the great film.
I'm afraid I have no idea! I searched but couldn't find such a bolt, and never heard of expansion bolts in cars. But I can say the bolt in this video had the nut on the outside, so if there's a nut and a sleeve you can pull beneath the nut then it might be a similar thing. Perhaps asking on Reddit or quora might help
@@MountainMullet Thank you very much for the attention to my question. I watched both if your films and that way got a clear understanding how to work w/a Sleeve Bolt. The thing is that the central bolt in the Transmission Mount of 2003 Chevy Cavalier is of unknown nature, it is only known that it is an Expansion Bolt. But on Google I found the statement that you need to find out if the Expansion Bolt on the transmission mount is a Sleeve Bolt. If it is they advise w/a procedure explained in your film. But I suspect that it is smth different. Yesterday I looked at it, and it is a head of the usual bolt there, like 10mm, not a nut, which you can remove. The film, which points on the problem can be found if to type on YT "2003 chevy cavalier engine transmission mount". It is a film of the author Efurd Garage, he explains the problem. It is the only film on YT which addresses the problem. The author corrected the broken bolt w/welding, I don't do welding and won't be able to correct it that way. I feel that the Chevy is the only car w/that type of attachment of the Transmission Mount. Thank you again.
Super interesting. Great review, interested because the opposite of you, because I am pretty skinny guy so everyone quickly exceeds my weight!
Me, as a non rock climber: so you're saying those safety clips can be pulled out huh? See that's why I have trust issues.
Anything will come out if you pull hard enough! In this case almost a ton of force got it out, and this was the 4th pull for this bolt. It took almost 4 tons to get it out before! And I like how it came out gradually, not just popping out. That gives me confidence that it won't fail catastrophically even after it's been damaged. This is a really good sign
Impressive seeing that thing retested. Definitely top shelf design and quality...for the money 😉. I still have yet to test all the other size/versions of the Chinese removables in tension; all my test so far has been in shear.
All up I pulled this one five times! Keep an eye out for the shorts showing all that
nice
interesting read from jim titt/bolt products website "Epoxy repair putty. By this I mean the pre-packaged little rolls of epoxy which you cut off and knead until mixed and use for repairing water pipes and such. Usually comes in ca 60g packages. This could be convenient way of gluing one or two bolts without carrying cartridges and guns about. I have tested two brands of this, one from Pattex (Henkel) commonly sold in Germany and another called Wetseal from Acrypol which is available in the U.K. The Pattex one doesn´t actually say what it is and proved to be not very strong, actually it gave the worst result of any glue I have ever tried. The Wetseal actually said it was epoxy and was twice as good with a one hour cure achieving respectable results (38kN) with our standard bolt test. The problem appears to be that for repair purposes a certain amount of flexibility is required and this reduces the putty´s load bearing capabilities, they are noticibly rubbery when cured. This is a pretty pricy way of gluing but would be an option for that odd bolt."
Wow! Now that I see this I'm sure I've read this before. Jim's big long blog page is great. I think if I could use a bolt style that screwed in this putty would work better than in the video, as it does set rock hard
God job, testing these. 👍
hello mate, did you removed my comment, or it's a yt bot tricks?
Wasn't me. Drop it again maybe?
@@MountainMullet ok, no pb, I redo the comment again ;)
Shouldn't you have them facing different ways, so gate towards rock (if safe!) on one of the 2 carabiners?
Generally yes I'd do it that way if building an anchor with carabiners, but these ones are pre- made facing out. The trick would be to ensure they're not right next to each other so that a single unclipping event can't get both of them