Відео

For us it's 100% or 50kg

Wich swivel did u use and how did u connect it?

Genius!

Sure is! They're supposedly working out a permit system to do that kind of work, but who knows when it'll be up and running. Hopefully incidents like this encourage the land managers to get it sorted soon

Worth a try! but also see what your belayer is doing. Stephan from RAED & I did some tests and worked out the belayer needs to move differently with the different devices. They need to give a hard catch to get similar results with the ZAED. The ohm just catches hard regardless

@@MountainMulletjust ordered it. Looking forward to using it.

It's easier to install the rope before or after you climb

I've been collecting bits to test and this is really a pilot experiment to see how much drilling I might need to do. Lots, it turns out! I've also done this with some 2 cutter bits which generally drill faster but less neatly

moulinette is top rope? It sometimes helps to add another express sling to the ohm to let the rope run with less acute angles, but this helps with leading more. You could try attaching the ohm to your harness via a PAS so that way you can reach out and control it, but that's quite annoying to climb with

Oh yeah report linked in description!

They're all suitable for that. The 171 is probably the easiest to control due to its lower RPM, but really any of those will work well. It's really a very small difference between them so maybe go into a store and hold them and see which one feels best for you!

Nah it's fine once you get used to it. In fact the pistol style handle is designed for drilling upwards so if you're doing steep work it's ideal

I've got as many sleeves as you want but no spare speed😎

Hobson brand, from Australia

I've drilled lots of very pure quartzite and the help for very hard stuff is: More carbide (full carbide tips), More impact force (bigger drill, less drill time), More cooling (hard to do but you can wait or bring a water bottle and dip the bit in). The best bits for my really hard stuff were Bosch 2 cutters that had a full carbide tip. I don't know if they still make them. But if you're dealing with iron I don't know what can really do it well. Maybe accept maybe 50mm deep or try a diamond core bit?

@@MountainMullet thanks, this is all very helpful! I'll look for full carbide tips, this is a great suggestion. Do you think a 36v hammer drill (makita has a couple that take 2 of the 18v batteries I already have) would be helpful here? I have a DHR 182, and a DHR 281 seems to have a much higher impact force. We already rotate drill bits to not let them heat up too much, but dipping the bit in water is a great suggestion. And we do use shorter bolts in 50mm holes whenever the rock is the absolute hardest variant we have over there!

Looks like the dhr281 hits very hard and would probably help, but if you need to go that big... Maybe consider a different strategy, like Trad climbing😂 sounds like a LOT of work to bolt this stuff

@@MountainMullet yeah, there's definitely a few famous trad routes in this rock here! We're now trying to open the routes that you can't protect well with trad equipment. Thanks for the suggestions! Will try these ideas out!

That's what I'm looking for! I don't have either of those brands but I am collecting many bits to test. I can see flute size will affect longevity a few different ways, if you have any other insights keep it coming!

@@MountainMullet I used Hikoki drilling bits for like a year, the seem to be fragile, but it holds better than expected. They slso drill faster and 25% more holes. Faster is not always better, but in my opinion it is better to be as efficient as possible because you don't risk to make the hole oval and you also put less impact time on the rock = less cracks. Erbauer is my second favourite, I mainly like it because the 6.5mm one drills the perfect hole for 6mm concrete screws. Your video with drilling bits from like a year ago was very helpful, I got the same results :)

Awesome! I'll try to find those bits. And if you're drilling 6mm then the flutes and friction will be very important. I'm collecting 10mm bits which don't fill up so quickly, but I also have some smaller ones I can test

@@MountainMullet I am drilling in the 6-12 mm range for anchors, 6mm is only for screws :) Sometimes I am drilling 40cm long holes and other times 14-16mm for rock spliters, this is why I tested a lot of bits :))

Good info! I have many bits that I need to test somehow, and this was a first test but they lasted too long. Do you know roughly how many holes you got with your burned bits? I need to burn them out quicker cos 30 holes is too much

@@MountainMullet I don't remember exactly , but around 30-40 holes on hard rock with Bosch 5X , Hilti lasted longer a bit around 45-50 , all my burned out bits were 6mm , with me that is ok i just hardcore test them 😂 if i had cooler them each some holes , that burned out wouldn't have happend too soon The small diameters made the drill bits difficult to push all the dust out of the holes so the temparature had increased very quickly, lead to the burned soon But before the Bit burned out , my body and battery had run out of juice 😂 too tired to test in a long time I made with my Makita DHR182 and 6Ah battery came apart

Yeah 6mm is so tight they will heat up real fast! I have many 10mm bits like this to test, but 40 holes for 40 bits is just too much drilling so I guess I'll do less holes and measure them

​​@@MountainMulletbefore all the bits burn out , your drill and battery will have run out of juice already , so i thinh just carry one on your climbing moutain journey , make the holes again and again with it till burn out instead of drilling each holes each bits man , change the bits too much can wear out the Sds chuck quickly But instead of testing till the bits burn out , just cooler it each holes so it can last longer , that just fine than try to destroy it soon

Given that it's the carbide insert that has worn, this looks like something that could be solved with shop cryotreatment.

Yeah it's been super handy so far for that kind of stuff! Exactly what I've always wanted. I do expect the dust to kill it but am experimenting with protection there

Fr

I updated the description

I don't expect it to last very long blowing concrete dust but for cleaning electronics etc it's brilliant

Yeah it's great for that!

Yes

And for climbing you need to add the rope drag weights.

Not cheaper here either. I think in China they go for about 1/3 the price, so probably better for people in the Asia markets

Gotta admit I was nervous about that sling when I first climbed with it! But yeah seems pretty good so far

Correct: the rope is installed into ZÆD while being at the bottom of the climb, not while hanging in the route. Once you take off the ground all you do is clip it to the first bolt.

Cheers mate!

Hobson also has trace numbers on their boxes, but the reports are just for measurement not strength. One of my boxes for example: www.hobson.com.au/testcert/2010511798 Signature is Chinese so I assume they have some factory there that makes these for them. They also have factories here but I don't know what they make in them

The variety of sizes is really going to help these get adopted more. I really took to these things because I'm already drilling,12mm holes but I know a lot of developers don't

We did one of these Camnal in shear, got 33.48kN, we even proof-loaded it first. Test and further explanation why they're tricky to get in/out in my recent video on them, but also in our initial Review. One reason for that problematic fit has to do with the movable tabs not being able to fully retract as well, which could be remedied by wallowing the bottom of the hole a tad. Search for BREAK TEST: Camnal 12mm Removable Bolt, made in China. There's been other removables in the China market now that I like more than Camnal's.

Do you find the camnal wear faster? I have another one that I kept intact to actually use in the field but haven't been using it enough to get a good idea yet

Haha definitely! Although my neighbours say they don't mind I try to keep this to a minimum, maybe doing some testing every couple of months

Ouch. If you don't have a rotary hammer you'll need to use a diamond core bit or something like that. Check out what's available for drilling granite bench tops and that sort of thing

I'm afraid I have no idea! I searched but couldn't find such a bolt, and never heard of expansion bolts in cars. But I can say the bolt in this video had the nut on the outside, so if there's a nut and a sleeve you can pull beneath the nut then it might be a similar thing. Perhaps asking on Reddit or quora might help

@@MountainMullet Thank you very much for the attention to my question. I watched both if your films and that way got a clear understanding how to work w/a Sleeve Bolt. The thing is that the central bolt in the Transmission Mount of 2003 Chevy Cavalier is of unknown nature, it is only known that it is an Expansion Bolt. But on Google I found the statement that you need to find out if the Expansion Bolt on the transmission mount is a Sleeve Bolt. If it is they advise w/a procedure explained in your film. But I suspect that it is smth different. Yesterday I looked at it, and it is a head of the usual bolt there, like 10mm, not a nut, which you can remove. The film, which points on the problem can be found if to type on YT "2003 chevy cavalier engine transmission mount". It is a film of the author Efurd Garage, he explains the problem. It is the only film on YT which addresses the problem. The author corrected the broken bolt w/welding, I don't do welding and won't be able to correct it that way. I feel that the Chevy is the only car w/that type of attachment of the Transmission Mount. Thank you again.

Anything will come out if you pull hard enough! In this case almost a ton of force got it out, and this was the 4th pull for this bolt. It took almost 4 tons to get it out before! And I like how it came out gradually, not just popping out. That gives me confidence that it won't fail catastrophically even after it's been damaged. This is a really good sign

All up I pulled this one five times! Keep an eye out for the shorts showing all that

Wow! Now that I see this I'm sure I've read this before. Jim's big long blog page is great. I think if I could use a bolt style that screwed in this putty would work better than in the video, as it does set rock hard

Wasn't me. Drop it again maybe?

@@MountainMullet ok, no pb, I redo the comment again ;)

Generally yes I'd do it that way if building an anchor with carabiners, but these ones are pre- made facing out. The trick would be to ensure they're not right next to each other so that a single unclipping event can't get both of them