How to Calibrate a Top-Load Washer
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to calibrate a Kenmore, Whirlpool or Maytag top-load washer that has a vertical modular drive system. Your you’re your washing machine has a vertical modular drive system if it was made in 2010 or later, has a control dial for setting the wash load and stays locked whenever the washer is running. The end of this article has a list of models that have to be calibrated after one of these repairs.
Calibrate the washer’s electronic control board if you replace any of these parts:
• Electronic control board
• Drive motor
• Motor capacitor
• Tub suspension springs
If you don’t calibrate the washer, the washer might not fill with the right amount of water for the load or might have frequently unbalanced loads.
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With the washer shut off, the basket empty and the lid closed, enter the diagnostic mode:
1. Turn the control dial 1 complete rotation counterclockwise.
2. Quickly (within about 6 seconds) turn the control dial 3 clicks clockwise, one click counterclockwise, and one more click clockwise.
All the status lights blink green when you successfully activate the diagnostic mode. If the status lights don’t blink, turn the control dial one complete rotation counter-clockwise to reset the control and then repeat steps 1 and 2, this time turning the knob faster during step 2.
3. Turn the control dial 4 clicks clockwise.
4. When the Rinse light turns on, press Start to begin the calibration cycle
The calibration cycle runs for 2 to 3 minutes. When the calibration cycle ends, the lid unlocks, and the washer shuts off.
VMW washer models that require calibration:
110.2002201, 110.20022011, 110.20022012, 110.20022013, 110.20022014, 110.2010231, 110.20102311, 110.20102312, 110.2011231, 110.20112311, 110.2110201, 110.21102011, 110.21102012, 110.21102013, 110.2111201, 110.21112011, 110.2118201, 110.21182011, 110.21182012, 110.21182013, 110.2120201, 110.21202011, 110.2125211, 110.21252111, 110.21252112, 110.2129201, 110.21292011, 110.21292012, 110.21292013, 110.2130201, 110.21302011, 110.21302012, 110.21302013, 110.2135211, 110.21352111, 110.21352112, 110.2139201, 110.21392011, 110.21392012, 110.21392013, 110.2149231, 110.21492311, 110.2210231, 110.22102311, 110.22102312, 110.2234251, 110.2244251, 110.2310231, 110.23102311, 110.2510231, 110.25102311, 110.2513241, 110.2600201, 110.26002011, 110.26002012, 110.2601201, 110.26012011, 110.26012012, 110.2611231, 110.2710231, 110.2712231, 110.2800201, 110.28002011, 110.28002012, 110.2801201, 110.28012011, 110.28012012, 110.299231, 110.507201, 110.5072011, 110.5072012, MVWC400XW, MVWX500XW, MVWX550XW, MVWX600XW, MVWX700XW, WTW4950XW, WTW5500XW, WTW5550XW, WTW5600XW, WTW5700XW
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I wish more if these videos would specify the model of appliance being shown.
That feeling you get when you fix it yourself. 😁 Thanks for the video. This Saved me.
My mom thinks I'm some washing machine whisperer. All I do is follow the instructions from this video.
Because you are
Shpshshsspshsspshhhssh
I wish I found this video before I bought my new washer, Dang, might of saved me a lot
Ok I figured it out. Timing is everything. I start like she does at normal, one complete rotation counter clockwise. I pause and rotate slowly knob to three o'clock position , back one and forward one. All lights came on, dialed in rinse cycle and pressed start. Electronics and mechanics are now time and in sync. It takes patience and practice.
As mentioned earlier in the comments timing is crucial. Follow the cadence (speed) demonstrated in the video too fast or too slow will not work, 6 seconds is longer than you think no need to rush!
Just tried this on my Amana toploader model Ntw4600yq totally works yay! Thanks for posting
Best video. Direct, to the point. Ty
Worked perfect THANK You!
The video should mention the calibration cycles fills and runs the machine for a short period.
The calibration cycle will open the water fill valves and run the washer for 2 to 3 minutes as indicated at :46 in the video. You can run the calibration cycle without the water supply turned on or without the water supply hooked up so the washer won’t fill in that situation.
Ok I turn on my whirlpool washer on than my lid light inmidialty goes off come back on within 2 seconds and start flashing. Nothing come one water or anything I heard small notice but that's it. Can anyone help me?
Thank you for this comment. Very helpful!
@@searspartsdirect PLEASE HELP, I tried to calibrate my machine model# 11021302010 after I put a new actuator. While calibrating all the green status will blink, but once I get to the rinse and press the start as what it said in the video, all the status light just turn on. What went wrong? Please,please help.. I dont have the luxury to buy a new machine..
@bugbama My green lights are not flashing on my Kenmore either when I tried to recalibrate. My washer is stuck on the Wash cycle. I'm thinking it might be the Control Board.
If it doesn't work try to start at the Casual setting vs the regular setting and do the exact same steps
The fix also works for Admiral washers. I wish I'd known that a few months ago. It would of saved $65.
Thanks for posting this information. This calibration cycle is used on many VMW versions of Admiral top-load washers manufactured after 2011.
I’m going to try this.
I have a Kenmore 11020022012 washer, serial #C23320125. The spin basket completely rusted away and separated from the drive shaft about 8" up from the tub bottom. It did all the rusting from the inside/underside of the porcelain spin basket [covered by the agitator] and there was no indication that there was rusting going on looking at the inner surface of the porcelain. I have removed the tall agitator, spin basket, retaining nut, etc. There is a splined driveshaft inside a smooth tube. There appears to be a lipped seal of some sort between the inner and outer driveshaft. Is this a waterproof seal that gets submerged with a full load or is it just a splash seal and the water level never actually gets this high? I don't want to start replacing the spin basket and tub seal on an old washer [still way cheaper than a new machine] if water is going to leak past this lip seal and into the gearbox. From the parts diagrams, it appears there may be a gearbox with a short driveshaft but my driveshaft is the long one [12" from bottom of tub to top of splined shaft]. I don't see any individual parts listed for the driveshaft, only a gearbox unit as a whole.
Im dealing with a kenmore 100 series that just fills theb immediately drains and goes no further. But the motor works fine. Trying the calibration and hopefully it fixes it.
I have the same washer, that does the same thing, my parents also had the same washer and theirs did the same thing. They bought a new one...I hope this does the trick!
@@shanonhafford2604 i actually figured it out lol there is a small vacuum hose that attaches to the control board which tells the board when its full. the hose came disconnected during transit. simply put the hose back on and has worked great ever since
My green lights are not flashing from right to left during Recalibration mode, they all illuminate until Recalibration completes. There are no error codes stored. My washer is stuck on the Wash cycle. Does this mean I have a bad Control Board?
What’s the purpose for calibration??
If you try this and everything does what it is supposed to and your washer still isn't working, like mine wash, then it probably isn't filling to the max. Look behind where the water enters the washer and check the tiny little filter. Clean it really well and replace it on your machine. This was the fix I needed. Oh, he also said he recalibrated the machine. If you know what that means let me know. There was also a secret manual hidden in the body of the machine marked FOR SERVICE TECHNICIANS USE ONLY. How about that?
Easy peasy!
I needa 10 yr degree from sears to understand this piece of washer, thats before sears was shutdown in our city last yr
My lights don’t blink and I have recalibrated many washers but mine just all light up solid
Same thing with mine too.
Is your washer stuck on the "Wash" cycle?
Awesome
I have this washer why it doesn't detect when it's a small load or large load it over fills with water and it comes out pouring in bottom
The symptoms that you seem to be describing indicate the electronic control board isn't properly detecting water level inside washer tub. Unplug the washer for 1 minute then plug the washer back in to reset the electronic control board. That may fix the problem. If not, unplug the washer and check the air hose connection between the bottom of the washer tub and the electronic control board. Reconnect the air hose if it's loose or disconnected from the tub or the electronic control board. Replace the air hose if it's cracked or broken. If the air hose is intact and properly connected to the tub and electronic control board, then you'll likely need to replace the electronic control board. Here's a video that shows how: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-the-electronic-control-board-on-a-top-load-washer We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Ima having trouble lid lock keeps flashing water comes out ,it just don’t spin or wash ,lid lock light keeps flashing only
The flashing lid lock indicated that the washer's control detects a problem and has recorded an error code in its diagnostic memory. You can view the error code using the instruction in this video/article: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-display-error-codes-on-vertical-modular-washers-vmws-video.html Follow the troubleshooting steps for the error code that displays in the diagnostic test mode to fix the washer. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Hello I am having difficulties determining why my washer is not filling. Kenmore model 110 series 500. We have replaced the actuator motor and are seeing error codes F3E1. Any help would be appreciated.
The F3E1 code indicates that the electronic control board detects a water level pressure switch failure. Unplug the washer. Check the air hose connection between the bottom of the tub and the water level pressure switch on the electronic control board in the console. Reconnect the air hose if it's loose. Check the air hose for leaks and replace the air hose if it leaks air. If no problems are found, then you'll likely need to replace the electronic control board (which includes the water level pressure switch). We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know (and give us the model number of your washer if you reply for more help).
Does this need to be done if I replace the lid lock switch that went bad because my washer still is not working an there are no error codes once I checked in diagnostics mode
Calibrating the washer may cause the control to work properly. If you're not able to enter the calibration mode or the washer still won't work after you calibrate it, then other failures such as a bad water temperature sensor or a failed electronic control board could be preventing the washer from working. Some models no longer need or use the calibration mode. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know the model number of your washer and give us details about what the washer does or doesn't do when you try to start a cycle.
It's a Kenmore top load washer the problem I'm having is the lid lock light started flashing red one day, so I replaced the lid lock switch and it no longer just flashes I entered the diagnostic mode for the washer to make sure no error codes were still keeping the washer from starting an every light was green so I started the washer with nothing in it to make sure it works an now all it does is fill the washer up with water an then the lid lock attempts to lock but all I hear is a click but the lock never engages an the washer does nothing after that
@@54jumpman Rust on the lid strike or a problem with the lid lock bezel could be preventing the washer from running. Check the lid strike for rust and clean it if rusted. That may fix this problem. If the lid strike isn't rusted, then the lid lock bezel on the top panel of the washer above the lid lock opening could be off center and preventing the lid from locking. Check the alignment of the lid lock bezel. If the lid lock bezel isn't centered over the opening for the lid lock, pull the bezel forward to center it over that opening. That may allow the lid to lock properly so the washer continues to run after filling. If this troubleshooting doesn't help, then the lid lock assembly that you installed may be defective. You may need to exchange the lid lock assembly for a replacement. We hope these tips help. If you need further assistance, give us the model number of your washer and further details about the problem.
@@searspartsdirect I'm still having issues with the washer starting is sounds like something it burnt out maybe like before I start the washer an the sensing cycle comes on an begins to fill the washer with water once it stops filling the washer to start the next cycle it attempts to lock the lid but I dont hear a click near the actual locking bezel is more of a faint click behind the washer control panel with the load selector it's coming from the actual area where the lid lock switch is plugged into and when it starts clicking the lid lock light flashes but that's the only time it will flash the make of the washer is a Kenmore and the model number is 110.5072012
@@54jumpman Your symptoms seem to indicate that a wiring connection problem, a failed lid switch or a bad electronic control board is preventing the washer from working. Unplug the washer and make sure the lid switch wire harness is plugged securely into the electronic control board. If that wiring connection is okay, you'll need to follow the steps in the lid lock test on page 18 of the tech sheet for the washer. Here's a link for an online copy of the tech sheet if you can't find the tech sheet that's typically stored inside the washer cabinet: www.scribd.com/document/262986274/w10677676-Tech-Sheet-Wtw4900bw1 . That test will likely help you determine whether you likely need to replace the lid lock assembly or the electronic control board. Thanks for providing that model number. Let us know if you need more help.
Any tips for if the spin / drain cycle only runs intermittently. clothes are coming out wet unless i rerun the spin cycle by itself i have checked all the hose and drains and pumps everything seems fine
Too much suds can prevent this type of washer from draining and spinning. Check for excessive suds when the washer doesn’t spin and clothes come out wet. Reduce the amount of detergent that you use if excessive suds are evident.
If excessive suds aren’t evident, then the washer likely records an error code that indicates why the washer didn’t spin. Follow the steps in this video to enter the diagnostic test cycle and view the saved error codes recorded by the washer control: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-display-error-codes-on-vertical-modular-washers-vmws-video.html.
Also, here’s a video with troubleshooting tips for a top-load washer that won’t drain and spin: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/troubleshooting-top-load-direct-drive-vmw-washer-wont-spin-or-drain.html.
If you need more help, let us know the model number of your washer and additional details about the drain and spin problem. We’ll try to provide additional tips once we receive more information.
Awesome thanks for thew quick reply after diagnostics i think the motor isnt spinning up to speed f7e5 thanks again
only other weird thing is running the drain spin cycle after the original cycle will drain the water in most cases so it seems like it can spin up to speed but its intermittent, ill ahve to pull the tech handbook out to see what the model is doesnt seem to be listed on the machine (might have been removed at some point)
The F7E5 error code indicates the control detects a problem with the mode shifter assembly that shifts the drive system from agitation mode to spin mode. Unplug the washer and check the wiring connections on the mode shifter assembly. Here’s a video that shows how to access the mode shifter assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/washer/how-to-replace-the-shifter-assembly-in-a-top-load-washer.html. If the wiring connections on the mode shifter assembly are okay, you may need to replace that mode shifter assembly.
awesome thanks most help ive had from a company and its over a youtube video looool
Please help me! So, I have replaced the Lid Lock and The Lid Lock Sensor thing with the wires. It was Calibrating until I replaced these parts. I have done the Diagnostics and it tells me No errors found. Now I'm just stuck in Lid Lock mode. Upon trying to Calibrate, it just locks, senses, spins then stops. I have to unplug it to get the Lid to unlock. ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED! Now it won't even go thru the whole Calibration Cycle!
Let us know the model number of your washer and we'll try to provide troubleshooting tips specific to your exact model of washer. Here are some general tips that may help you: You indicate that you're trying to run the calibration mode. Try starting a wash cycle and see if it stops and flashes the lid lock light. If it does, then go into the diagnostic mode and see if the control recorded an error code. Follow the troubleshooting steps to clear the error code.
Take the things you replaced out and put them back in. Maybe some small unnoticeable incorrect installation.
Hi there how to calibrate a Kenmore 26002010 thanks
The procedure for calibrating that model of Kenmore washer is the same as the procedure shown in this video. Follow the steps shown in the video to calibrate your washer. Make sure the washer is empty and the lid is closed before starting the calibration cycle. If you need more help, let us know.
My machine seems stuck in spin cycle (which it won't do when there are clothes in it) and the light is flashing red.
The flashing red light likely indicates that the electronic control detected a component failure. Use the procedure in this video/article to display and decipher the error code: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-display-error-codes-on-vertical-modular-washers-vmws-video.html After determining the error code, follow the troubleshooting steps shown in this error code chart to fix the problem that's preventing your washer from spinning: www.searspartsdirect.com/washer-repair/error-codes/kenmore-110-model-vmax-top-load-washer-error-codes.html We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, post additional details about the failure including the error code displayed and the model number of your washer.
Do a diagnostics cycle instead of calibrate. for step 2, rotate 2 clicks to the right instead of 4 to get to the SPIN light on. Hit start. google the light combos.
Mine drained and then squirted water before it cut of 🤷♀️
I can't even get the lights to light up no matter what I do. I did what you said to do and still nothing..no flashing lights.
Unplug the washer for 5 minutes to reset the electronic control board, then try the procedure again.
If it still doesn’t work, unplug the washer and check the wire harness connections on the electronic control board. Here’s a video that shows how to access the electronic control board in that type of washer: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/washer/how-to-replace-the-electronic-control-board-on-a-top-load-washer.html. Reconnect any loose wires and the control board may light up.
I did what you said and on the last step all of the lights stay on for 30sec and then all shut off
Sears PartsDirect what is wrong if I do what diagnostic test and none of light light up?
mine light up right away When i pour gasoline . it really works... This machine are all piece of junk
@@searspartsdirect
When i do the steps it only shows a blinking sensing light ..that's it ...i did the steps exactly as you described 🙄
Damn computers always making us chase our tails.
All my machine did was buzz an realease my water i didnt even wash yet😑
Will they Ever Brand New Make Electronic Automatic Washer and Dryers and make the use of the Manual Turning Knob a thing of the Past? Because For Your information the Manual Turning Knob is really getting to become a pain in the Butt for over 980,000,000, of People here in the United States of America and around the world,0:02
When wash is done. Clothes are still coming out wet. When I into put into Drain/spin than the clothes come out fine. What can I do to make work without the extra step of Drain/spin?
Check for excessive suds when the clothes are still wet after the cycle finishes. If you see suds on the clothes, use less detergent so the washer can drain properly and spin the water out of the clothes. If you don’t see excessive suds after the cycle finishes, check for stored error codes as shown in this video: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/how-to-display-error-codes-on-vertical-modular-washers-vmws-video.html Use this chart to guide you in troubleshooting problems indicated by stored error codes: www.searspartsdirect.com/washer-repair/error-codes/kenmore-110-model-vmw-top-load-washer-error-codes.html We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance let us know the model number of your washer and include additional details about the failure and results of troubleshooting that you attempted.
I Was able to get the trouble code. It ended up being the shift actuator. Sears parts store near my home had the part in stock.
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that you got the washer fixed.
What is the calibration for? Mine has a death wobble. Series 500
The calibration mode allows the electronic control board to detect base line drive motor speed and washer tub movement when the spin basket is empty so the control can properly sense the wash load and fill the tub with the proper amount of water during wash cycles. The calibration mode probably won’t fix the death wobble in your washer. Let us know the model number of your washer and additional details about the wobble (whether it happens in just in the spin mode or also in agitation mode). We’ll try to give you some advice on eliminating the wobble.
@@searspartsdirect sure would like to know how to trouble shoot the "death wobble" that happens in the spin mode...
@@BobJones-zf6ie Some versions of washers like the one shown in this video use a spanner nut to hold the spin basket in place. Other models use a plastic clip to hold the spin basket in place. The illustrated steps in this repair guide show the spanner nut and the video version of the guide shows the plastic clip: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/repair-guide/how-to-replace-the-spin-basket-in-a-top-load-washer Check the spanner nut or the plastic clip that holds the spin basket in place in your washer. Tighten the spanner nut if it's loose or replace the plastic clip if it's damaged. If you find no problems with the spanner nut or plastic clip, then check the suspension rods. Replace any damaged suspension rods to improve tub stability. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know the model number of your washer and give us more details about the wobbling issue.
😑
Slow down