As far as mileage goes, most people who get an RV use it for a few camping trips a year and most of the time it's within a few hundred miles. Do the math on that. If you did 4 trips to a place 300 miles away in a year, that's 2400 miles in a year. Low mileage is actually the norm for RVs. One other note, is that mileage is at close to the maximum capability of the drive train. Think about wear and tear on a pickup driven empty vs. the wear and tear on a pickup that towed a trailer weighing 16,000 pounds. So your 47,000 miles may be the equivilent of two or three times that. Plus sitting for long periods is not good on seals and other components of the drive train. Please don't get me wrong, that doesn't mean it's bad, I'm just saying be aware that "low mileage" is relative and actually the norm for these vehicles.
Thanks for the insight. That's why we did a boat load of preventative maintenance, had mechanics look it over and give attention to the things that looked shoddy or worn out. We ultimately replaced a few hoses with dry rot and the brakes and tires. But otherwise we've added 20K more miles without a hiccup! Thanks again!
However, they are built to carry loads unlike a truck or car. So while high mileage may be worse on an rv, low is not immediately 2x or 3x worse just because it is an rv.
@brianvandy4002 Excellent points! All questions to ask the seller about storage and hauling. I always read the comments and greatly appreciate those from mechanics or someone who has a lot of inside information about the automobile world! Thank you
So would a motorhome from 1999 that has 125,560 on it, all the records are in it, (two owners) would this be too high mileage? I can’t get under it but my son can next week. I got in it yesterday and dug through everything. I found three small spots where water got in from caulking that needs to be redone. Since it’s a Lazy Daze, I know it’s made well and those spots can be easily fixed. I haven’t gotten on top or under it, that’s where my son comes in. Plus he’s a mechanic so that’s a plus. Your video gave me so much more info. I saw I did a lot right, including walking little by little feeling for water damage. I know the engine ac wasn’t working and was blowing hot air on a 102 degree day in Fl 🤦♀️.
Wow! This is the most helpful guide to buying a used RV I’ve ever seen! Great job. We are driving our 6th RV now. Man how I wish I had seen this before having to learn all this the hard way. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Though it seems by now you must be quite the expert in shopping for RVs! We're hoping this one sticks around with us for a few years as shopping is so stressful! Thanks for the kind words!
Hear, hear! As a newbie I bought a 26 year old class c RV. I looks great and runs great. I liked the way it sounded and drove. Good so far, but I took the seller’s word for it that it was in impeccable shape and ready to go anywhere. My bad! Long story short I am now $6000 into repairs and I haven’t even taken it out yet except from my house to the repair place. And as old as it is apparently it’s so old that parts are obsolete, and extremely hard to find! I wish I had seen this great video before I bought my rv!
@@ohcliff1030 Ouch !!!!! I finally made my mind up to sell my 750HP 03 Cobra and get an RV. I guess I may have a small leg up having been an muscle car owner since 15 yrs old ( 53 now) but not assuming and am gona do my due diligence for sure , I mean my Cobra doesn't sleep 2 , have a bathroom or stove lol so , I'm pretty sure it's a bit more to consider and check when buying an RV as opposed to an Muscle car. I sure hope you're getting things sorted out and are close if not already having some fun.
I would highly recommend changing the coolant and brake fluid. They will cause corrosion internally regardless of mileage. It's really just good to replace all the fluids on a new to you vehicle so that you have a baseline
.1. Make sure the dashboard AC blows cold air, there is a vacuum hose buried behind the engine that rots and leaks vacuum, that is supposed to power an actuator that directs cold air out the dash vents. $1000 repair at an AC repair place. 2 Make sure RV generator starts easily and stays running. If it has not been run often, may need expensive servicing $1000. The house batteries start the generator, power interior lights and furnace blower, water pump and electronic controls, they go bad if not cared for with distilled water and kept charged. Usually two 6-volt special RV batteries in series or one larger one $200+. 3. The converter charger keeps your house batteries charged and interior lights, etc. lit when you are connected to camp power, make sure it is working, $150. 4.The roof AC unit should blow cold air,$1000 5.The furnace should heat immediately and respond to thermostat settings.$400 6. There should be no sidewall cracks in tires and they should be no more than 5 years old regardless of tread depth for safety ($300 x 6 apiece). 7.The pleated day/night window shades may need repairs/replacement.$50-100, each. Some minor water damage may be acceptable. RV's are generally not designed to stay water-proof and are not assembled by well trained people, emphasis is on speed, not much quality control. Refrigerators should be left on by seller to show that they work, they cost $1000 to replace. Slides are nice but may have mechanical problems and air and water leaks, and they are in the way when retracted. A typical Class C costs $50-100K+ new, depreciates quickly to $30K. holds value thereafter depending on amenities and condition. Don't expect to buy a perfect used RV cheap and expect to spend DIY effort and RV repair money including maintenance, camp space rental, insurance and DMV fees, and 9-10mpg fuel costs, much like owning a cabin cruiser boat.
Have looked at literally hundreds of videos on what to look for when buying a used RV and and I have to say I really enjoyed your methodical manner you go through every aspect of your evaluation. Have saved this to waych again and again. Thank you
I'm in the middle of selling my house and want to move in a motorhome but I had no clue of what to do to inspect. I just learned today what the a,b,c category stand for. This video really opened my eyes to what I need to do when time comes in a month or 2. Thank you and subbed!
Thanks so much for putting this together...I am in the process of looking around for a Class C. Appreciate you taking the time to do this...it's super helpful.
Thanks! We made it thorough because when we are really set on an RV we spend hours going through everything to try and figure out what we're up against and how much is reasonable to negotiate off the price. Hope you find the right one!
I'm in the market for a class C..This video will come in handy when I find one that I like..I'm not opposed to buying an older one after watching this..thanks so much for all the info.
Awesome! Thanks so much for the compliment! Be patient and don't jump the gun on buying if it's not exactly what you want. The right RV is out there and more sellers are putting theirs on the market so good luck!
Absolutely! Although we did learn we also had to spend money on replacing all brake components as well. But overall we are pretty pleased with the purchase and love the RV so far! Thanks for watching and reaching out!
You can get a moisture sensor detector and put it on everything (the walls under everu window etc just like he did also don't forget under the beds. NEVER forget the slides and them. Oh btw you can get the handheld moisture sensor anywhere online etc and it's cheap ❤ thanks for all of the amazing advice!! Sorry one more thing with all of these hurricanes tornadoes "1000" year floods etc. Many NEW RV LOTS with their lots full these flooded RVs have been cleaned up and put on lots to be sold so please find out ok enough of me sorry
Please note that that year stamp on the bottom of fire extinguisher is not as important as the little gauge on top. You need to be sure that little tip is within green area of the gauge. If pointing out towards red it needs to be recharge or replace !
As long as it works when it is supposed to! Would rather replace one that might have a bit more life in it than need one that doesn't have life in it at all! Great advice though!
If I may add something that may help all RV'ers Headlights, being able to see when driving is important lol.. there are many HL restoration kits out there , I've found Griots Garage Severe Headlight restoration kit is the best . I'm not a newbie ( was flown from my home here in North East to Arkansas to do a paint correction on an nice 02 WS6 Trans am) but this kit will give newbies professional results and your Headlights will stay clear for years not weeks or months. The Headlight coating the kit comes with is far superior to other kits "sealants" , where the plastic will re-haze in just a few months. Thanks for your time making this video.
Thanks for watching and contributing to helping others! Yes, this is a great thing to do with an older RV if it is needed. We replaced the headlights in our old RV because they were beyond being cleaned. But this RV didn't require it.
Thorough inspections can take hours and unless you are a professional or have the time to hire one, you're right there is always more. At the time of this video (early COVID RV-boom) used Rvs were selling sight unseen by people who were receiving free governement money sitting at home on their couches. Because we didn't receive these checks, we had to do our best to inspect our used RV options as thoroughly as we could and we shared these best tips. We had 2 RVs we spent hours inspecting sell out from underneath us overnight because we asked to "Sleep on" the decision to buy the next day. This is a primer for most people. Everyone should do their due diligence.
Price is a factor but there are some truly good deals out there where price isn't the whole story. But clearly we don't want people overpaying for a lemon. That's why we're thorough about how to look for everything that might be negotiable in the price.
One of the better videos on buying a used RV I have seen. One thing that wasn't mentioned was having the RV inspected by a certified RV inspector. The reason I mention that is just about every thing I have read or seen they recommend having not only used but even new RVs professionally inspected. What are your thoughts on that?
Good point. However when we put this video together (just after purchasing) RVs we’re flying out the door sight unseen. Under normal market conditions if you have a week or more to arrange for an inspection they yes, it’s a good idea. However we had 3 RVs sell out from underneath us overnight when we were shopping so this is the best we could out together considering no RV was waiting for an inspectors schedule
Very helpful video. I’m in the process of looking for an RV as a first timer buyer and will be using tips from this for inspecting. Looking for something roughly 2-3 years old due to depreciation. You’re RV looks like it’s in great shape.
One thing you can do also is high an RV inspector. I don’t know enough about engines so that’s what I’ll do. They also check all the systems and systems and construction issues as well. It’s worth it. But inspecting it first yourself is good then if it’s the rig you want call in the professionals. Thanks for this information.
If you have the time and resources, yes this is a great idea. At the time we purchased ours, RVs were being purchases sight unseen. Demand was stupid high and supply was limited. So we made this video for anyone who wanted to give it their best shot. But great point.
@@CalledToWanderso true about having the time! Especially if you think you’ve found something for a good price,those sometimes sell in one day,and if they don’t there’s usually a reason! I think any used RV that you have time to hire an inspector must be at a premium price or it has something wrong with it and that’s why people are passing on it.I guess geographical reasons would come into play,but in my case being in a suburb of Houston good deals go fast,not just from people looking to buy one for themselves but people wanting to flip them.
It’s more the other way around. You need to check if your car can be towed and how (flat, dolly or trailer). Most Class C will have the towing capacity for small to mid size cars, but that’s your next step. Check the manufacturers tow limits. Then it is a matter of getting the right tow equipment installed on your motorhome and car. We use Roadmaster and have nothing but good things to say about that.
Learned a lot thank you. I'm looking for my first used rv class c. You are very thorough in your inspection. Does that negate having to hire a certified rv inspector. Have you had any instances where you needed a 2nd opinion ? Secondly, you preferred a Ford V10. Is it because of the power and reliability vs. other power trains and chassis ? Bear with me this is my first submission.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and reach out! We know what to look for when it comes to the interior and exterior of an RV and we tried to show how tedious our personal inspections are. We'll spend several hours once we decide we are looking at an RV worth following up with. We don't know the engine side of things well - so we call our mechanic friend and have him listen to the engine and give us a few pointers from a mechanical side of things. So it is definitely worth an inspector IF you find one that will identify mechanical issues. When we sold our last RV the buyer hired an inspector for $500 who did nothing more than take pictures and write notes. We told the buyer all of the mechanical issues ourselves and he addressed it himself. So inspectors are hit or miss. We definitely found out a few things after the fact we wish we had negotiated (bad tires = $1,800 + bad brakes = $1,000) and none of the fluids had been changed (we did those ourselves and would have done it anyway)... In a seller's market there is no time to hire an inspector. But as lots of people are selling now post-COVID, prices are coming down and there is time for you to work with a seller. 2 years ago you pretty much had to decide on the spot... but we always say, if the timing is not right, then it's not right for us... as for the V10 - this was insisted by our Ford mechanic friend who said we'd never have an issue with the engine, mechanically nor with hauling the weight we inherited with a 31 foot Class C. So far the engine has been happy in our care and we haven't had any major issues nor do we anticipate it! Hope this helps!
Thank you so much for your video 😊 as a buyer you in my Humble opinion are just like a professional inspector with your walk around and through 😊😊 you talk slow, you know your stuff 😊😊😊. I like how that E-450 Ford has power steering reservoir in front up top. The Three Aid Ambulance type vehicle that I service for a Fire Cadet REHAB program. The power steering reservoir was way down by firewall. Unless you knew where to look, it could be overlooked ( bad) when buting used, the new owner might overlook because they cant see it. I personally don't like the Ford E style fronts on RVs, like the regular truck syle fronts. Thats just me because I service 3 of them in Ambulance 🚑 type fronts. The inside engine cover is had to remove because on Ambulance 🚑 Un cab you have engine removable cover all covered over top with emergency Light switches and siren control box, radio ect. I highly recommend that anyone looking to build there own back as a custom RV. Buy a used Ambulance 🚑 like are Rehab units do NOT respond code RED to calls, so normal driving for YEARS of there life There is oiwer already to rear of box, the framing is built STRONGER. And you can easily plug a gen set into back box for portable 110 power without having ro run your engine. The big thing is you must build your rear compartment. I have seen guys with very little building experience go to work and make excellent bed set ups in them. With pota potty you can just dump in bathroom at any rest stop. The reason I bring up an Ambulance 🚑 is because some ho dirt cheap. We just surplus one of are Diesel Aid Rigs. And God is my witness, the Rig is water proof and RUNS excellent.I left the scene lights on box body, so new owner already has large lights for all around outside of unit. Big rear bumper for easy step up into back. Lots of cargo compartment all around outside of box. One we keep portable Generator in a Honda 2000 It powered up the whole back for lightning and plug ins. Lots of roof lights inside back compartment. It had access to front from box. Seat belts on bench seat, and stretcher rods locks on floor were easy to remove. Ambulance make great RV conversation 😊😊😊
Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful! We do not have a checklist for download, but do have a post that is easier to skim through and covers each topic: calledtowander.com/tips-for-buying-a-used-rv-checklist/
Thanks for the best info I’ve come across in the last 3 years I have looked online for an RV! After all this time, I finally saw my first used Class C in person a few days ago. I’m going back later this week to really start checking everything out & test drive with owner. First concern was that it didn’t start; due to leaving the backup camera plugged in, according to the owner. Unfortunately, inspecting some things including the roof isn’t a possibility for me at 68 with spinal fractures. I was reassured, verbally only of course, that all leaks & moisture have not been present for the last year after she had roof resealed. Old delamination areas had been voluntarily pointed out by owner. One of my questions is that it’s winterized, so is there still a way to check the plumbing fixtures?
Hoping your inspection went well. That's a good question - we don't deal with anything related to the word "winter" so we would not shop for an RV that ever spent any amount of time where it had to be winterized. We did find with ours that the pipes froze and we had to redo the plumbing for all of our fixtures. But we were going to do that anyway. Sorry we can't provide a more specific answer!
It does not matter what we paid for it because the market dictates what you will pay if you are shopping. For example, buying in the middle of COVID, which was just months later, in California this RV would have cost 2-3 times what we paid for it. If we sold it tomorrow in the dead of winter after the big RV craze has passed, we'd get half of what we bought it for. This particular model ranges from 4K to over 30K. It's not the answer you want. But this is a better answer than saying we paid 15K or 25K or whatever.
Our 30+ year Ford mechanic friend shared with us that aside from the 7.3L diesel engine that we had previously, and is not in motorhomes, this V10 is the best out there. But he also said to be aware of the need to have spark plugs torqued to spec and to keep an eye on the bolts in the exhaust manifold. If you watch our recent videos, you'll see we had issues and addressed each! Every engine has its pros and cons. But we trusted our friend in this decision and it worked out great.
Excellent video. Thank you for making it. This will be a big help in my search. NADA also has a website for RV values that I'll consult since it's hard to analyze value for these. Good stuff and thanks again.
thanks so much! NADA told us the value of this RV is only 4K. But it is worth so much more - especially when we bought it in the middle of such a crazed RV market in COVID. So use NADA as a reference point. At the end of the day, something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. So if that 10K asking price sits long enough, you could get it for 5K. Or if 10 people show up for it on the same day it could jump to 20K. NADA can be somewhat useful. But lots of study of what's actually out there is important. We actually worked with our insurance company on a stated value to the RV after remodeling ours because there is no way we could replace this RV for the 4K NADA said it was worth. We have 4K in batteries, inverter, solar and wiring components alone!
Sorry Rudy, but there is absolutely no way to answer this question as markets vary so much. Covid caused a massive spike in values for a short time and things are getting more realistic now. And beyond geographical markets, the condition of the RV changes everything. Ours was in 80% good condition with the 20% being things we knew we could easily address. A 2004 with one slide out when we purchased ours during covid - assuming low mileage and all appliances work - would probably be in the 15-20K range on the East Coast. West Coast prices tend to be higher. Now the 15-20K is probably in the 20-30K because people still think they can get top dollar covid pricing on their RVs. But I'd say the price is whatever I felt I could offer based on what work I knew it would need - just like buying a home.
Great video and good advice, you don't mention looking for rodent damage, especially after a long storage, we bought a 30 year old class A with evidence of rodent damage in the kitchen cupboards and a few other areas, cheers from OZ
Take a creeper( flat/wheeled, add a board for head/ neck support, another board to use as a runway underneath. Broom, webs & spiders , gloves , Notepad & pen , chalk to mark tire holes, spray bottle, hand soap or dish, in a ziplock, for tires, dirty tire #vin &stats plates, lol hands, multi meter, air pump gauge, fridge thermometer level, to check theirs, tape measure small L bracket or for checking if it's square, , meas height, width length at random areas, this can prove potent. Frame issues smell. The drains. Stinky? Why? Test the H2O. Check the grey tank sensors at least, check dumping system, hoses. Rock it from inside & listen! Cracks, groans, squeals? Ha ha . Smell the cushions. If poss do a black out test, cover all windows, doors when it's dark check the spaces,. See light? Haha take a roll. Of blue tape, mark issues& write notes, # each taped site ! There's always the ' make it rain ' test, if they let you, garden hose, spray attachment, one with a detention allows a roof leak & undercarriage check., fully spray each window with someone I side
Thank you for this thorough explanation of what you looked for in a used RV. I hope to be purchasing a rig in the next year(God willing) Did you walk the roof during your inspection?
Glad it was helpful! And hope it works out to find and buy the right RV! Yes to the roof! We didn't show that part of the inspection, but we definitely climbed on the roof. I walked every inch, foot over foot, to make sure there were no soft spots. I also checked the roof material, which is where we realized that we needed to reseal the roof (something we felt comfortable doing ourselves, and have a video on if you get to that point!). We also inspected the vent covers and ended up replacing a few (again, not a deal breaker in a 22 year old RV!). So yes, definitely spend time inspecting the roof. Keep us posted in your search and let us know if we can help at all!
So this fix was just a new motherboard, which we purchased for around $100 on Amazon and installed in around an hour. It was plug and play and worked great... THEN, later we had to replace the thermistor, which was another affordable repair we could do on our own. BUT THEN later we also had the entire cooling unit break and we paid $700 for a professional to install a remanufactured one. So, this particular fix was easy - but knowing what was down the line, we were around $1000 in fridge repairs (but it works AMAZING now, just like new!)
CarFax is worth the money if you've narrowed down your search. We wouldn't pay for 5 options. But once we narrowed it down to 1-2 it would be worth having that on hand to help make the decisions.
Thanks for a great walkthrough !!! You mentioned getting an RV with a Ford V10 was a 'must' for you...May I ask why ? Many Class C's seem to be on the Chevy platform...is the Ford more reliable ? More efficient ? Thanks again !!
Yes! Great question! The generator will power all the 110V ac outlets. So will an automatic transfer switch connected to an inverter... but that's a bit more complicated. Let us know if you have any other questions!
We DON'T touch anything with water damage. It is too much work and way too costly. Typically a small leak will have been left over time. So not only will you have the leak itself on the roof or side or wherever, but also the water will have dripped down the side walls and can damage the structure where it is unseen. Definitely drop the price, by multiple thousands - depending on the type, age, etc. It's turning back toward a buyer's market with the way too inflated prices coming down. So hard ball the seller if there is water damage. Chances are, they're selling because they didn't want to deal with it... You CAN fix water damage. And with out previous RV that we bought without knowing anything about RVs, we DID fix water damage... and that experience taught us it's better to keep shopping than to try and repair water damage. Hope that helps?!
It should be noted that if the speedometer isn't working, it is likely the odometer is off. Most vehicles the speedo and odometer are driven from the same cable.
Most late model vehicles speedometer is electronic and no longer use a cable. The sensor is mounted on the transmission. My 2004 Ford e450Thor has no speedometer cable. Instruments are servo motors that move the needles in the gauges.
@Bobby Bishop that said, many newer vehicles ( in the last 10 or 12 years) you can edit the computer throught the ODBII port to set your current tire size to correct your speed/odometer. And, yes, they are no longer cable driven, but they both use the same tire size setting to calculate mph and distance travelled.
@@brianvandy4002 yes I got an S10 with 18s and the speedo is off like 10 mph to the slow side. The instrument cluster in 2000s Chevys are garbage. Those servo gauges are pretty much worthless. I did major surgery on the cluster and replaced them all with aftermarket mechanical gauges. Real pain but worth it .
When you found out the speedo doesn’t work didn’t that make you question the mileage? If the speedo doesn’t work it’s quite likely the odometer doesn’t work either.
The speedometer does work, it’s just the needle sits at 40, not at 0. Once the vehicle reaches 40 and over the speedo works fine. The odometer works. We’ve put over 20,000 miles on this RV. Bought it at 47k, now has 71k on it. We record all of the mileage we’ve driven in this. We also have a engine reader with Bluetooth & the speed that shows on that has always matched the speedo. If the speedo did not work at all, then I would’ve questioned if the odometer worked. Have had this RV now for almost 3 years & 0 issues.
Great video I've been thinking about a 1995 ford camper 58.000 miles the tires date code is super and leaking seals and maintenance etc great help thank you I'm thinking about using a phone camera selfie stick under where motor for oil leaks etc great tips Info.
Glad to help! That's a great tip - but a lot of the older RVs would be remiss if they weren't leaking. Definitely check underneath for rust but also don't hesitate to hire a mechanic to give a good inspection of the engine. That's always the weakest part of our inspection process because we don't know engines as well as other parts of the RV. Good shopping!
@@CalledToWander thanks I do know a lot about engines drivetrain etc what I did not know about rv s is how poorly designed and built many are until I watched tons of videos but great tips and info thanks again.
I realize this video is 3 years old but I would like to ask you a question in hopes that you will reply. Why were you set on the Chevy V-10 6.8L and no other?
Our friend who is a 30+ year Ford mechanic said they were the most powerful and reliable. The same engine is in larger Class A and, as we have found, it pulls the same uphill with our 4,000 tow car as it does without it. No power concerns.
Are there certain Class C brands that you would recommend uf one is looking for a used RV? If one to go all in on solar 400. watts or more can you eliminate propane altogether? If not should the fridge be a 3 way?
Brands are not always as important as the inspection you do. But some engines are known to perform better than others. We're Ford people, so we were only looking for RV brands that offered the Ford V10 engine... In terms of solar, that's another topic we will have to address separately in another video. There are all sorts of calculations you'd need to do to determine how much battery you would need to run how many electrical devices for how long so that you can estimate how much solar you will need. We like the general rule of cover the entire roof the best you can and have as big a battery bank as you can fit and afford... And the 3-way fridges typically draw HUGE amounts of power from 12V battery bank, especially compared to running on propane or when plugged into shore power. We would not run a standard 3-way fridge on batteries at any time because we prefer propane anyway.
@@CalledToWander thank you ❤️ I believe God is providing a path to make the sweetest lemonade out of this bitter lemon of an experience. In the meantime, please join me in prayer that He restores the money I lost and provides the best camper for my full time, tiny house, nomad transition with all the resources and wisdom necessary to acquire it.
It’s a beast. They’re in everything from smaller vans to our size RV and even some Class A motorhomes. Easy to work on. Common parts. Only issue for us is too much power- 7mpg. It’s so powerful we get the same mpg when we tow our Honda CRV as when we don’t!
When I bought my 97 Ford E-350 class C in 2019, I checked the radiator hoses, after I had already took it home, and found out, that every thing was original, this man was sneaky he had just bought 2 in house batteries so everything worked just fine for our first 2 nights of our first trip later I found out that the battery inverter was not working so in the 4 years I've have had it I've replaced the radiator hoses water pump, serpentine belt, all the fluids, upper and Lower ball joints, both tiered ends and 2 more suspension rods , it's good to check the deferential oil, mine was almost like Liquid roofing sealer, I replaced it, in December 2022 I replaced all 7 tires and bought 4 Aluminum wheels, I installed a front end reciver and bought a 12,000 pound winch just incase, I extended a rear platform 3ft for a large tool box and to house the winch and batteries tools and tow ropes, it's been a lot but I hope it's ready for a 1 month trip to baja.
The older they are, generally, the more work they need. We had honest sellers who honestly didn't know what was good or bad with the motorhome as it was donated to their nonprofit and they just wanted to sell it for cash. Good news is that if you do have issues in Baja, the Mexican people there are amazing and you'll find help. We know Baja well... including many, many broken things.
Honestly I'd only look at Winebago's if buying new.. Jayco's use to be great but then Thor bought them out in 2016. If you're looking at used pre-2017 I'd look at Winnebago, Jayco and Fleetwood
I bought mine from a bus company they said they sealed everything I’ve never owned one didn’t know what to look for nothing was sealed I had to rubberize and seal the entire roof. There’s water damage that I have found on the walls. Then one of the owners of the company passed away, so getting it titled into my name was a bitch because they didn’t sign off. Now I’m having to restore it before we can even use it
Our 30+ year Ford mechanic said this was the best engine we’d find for any class C rv. The spark plugs are only a problem if the mechanic doesn’t take the time to install them correctly. See above, our mechanic knows what he’s doing so we don’t worry.
@@CalledToWander so you’re saying we should rely on our mechanic to know what to do! How’s that working for everyone else? Even the majority of cardiologists still believe fat causes heart disease! We can’t rely on others without doing our own research 🧐
In your experience is there a typical used RV age that one should stay within? I have read At depreciation levels off at 5 years. Would 5-10 years be ideal?
We don't make decisions on depreciation. We make them on what we can afford and what the market presents to us. We know many RVers with brand new RVs that have more issues than those like ours that are over 20 years old with all original parts. And what condition is the RV in? Do you need to replace a roof at 5 years that was not well maintained but not need to replace one on a well-maintained 10 year old (or older) RV? And if you want to stay in some RV "resorts" many are making rules excluding any RV over 10 years old. We don't want to go to those places anyway. So what the market says and what you can afford for what you want - that's the best year.
Every few years. You can check the date on the bottom of the extinguisher. It's usually there in indentation. You can take expired ones to a local fire department or... see how a fire extinguisher works firsthand!
It is OK if you know how to stop the water damage from getting worse. We had to deal with an active leak with our previous RV and it was a lot of work and a bit of money to fix that. So we make sure that there is no water damage both for our comfort and peace of mind as well as the resale value of the RV. If you can identify where the leak is and stop it and are comfortable living in the RV as it is, then it's not a problem. But otherwise you may want to invest in repairing it. Water damage won't stop until you stop the leak. So just be mindful of that and let us know if we can help in any way!
Just because Ford quit making it doesn’t mean parts will stop being made. The V10 is one of the most common ford engines ever made and it’s base is used in their 5.4L V8 engines (the only real difference is 2 added cylinders). In fact it’s the most heavily produced V10 ever sold in America
I'm learning the wisdom more and more in a rolling stone gathering no moss! Our biggest issues seem to come more from times when we're stationary than when we're constantly moving and using things the way they were intended!
This video was very helpful. I have 4 pages of notes. Thank you! This made me get up and check how old our fire extinguisher is and it said 94’.💀 omg. It’s 17 years past the expiration date. I think we should get a new one. 😂
Yikes! Definitely test the alarms too. Not that you ever hope to have to use them... But in our first RV we had a bad LPG alarm and when I swapped it out it immediately went off! We thought it was defective... until we started to smell the propane building up in the camper! Turns out our furnace had a leak and the alarm was doing its job!
Well, they do! Speedometer works perfect once we hit 35 mph. Odometer reads correctly, as does tripometer. And we have an engine code reader that verifies the accuracy of other gauges.
@@CalledToWander that’s good! With these digital systems these days it’s hard to trust when there is a known fault in part of it. How many foot RV would you say is needed for full time living (1 person 1 dog)
@@annoythedonkey We have manual everything in this 1999 RV on purpose (gauges, windows, seats, locks) as we've found electronic things (even brand new) fail more frequently and are harder to repair than digital/electronic. We can actually hit the dash board and the speedometer needle will go back to zero and give us accurate reading up ontil it gets stuck again at 35 mph! As for the size of the RV, that is totally up to you and your comfort. One person and one dog might fit much better into a truck camper like we had at first than we did with 2 people and 2 dogs. Or you may be fine in a van. There are always trade offs and you need to know what the goal is of the RV. For us, this RV was not an "Adventure mobile." It is a comfortable office/living space where we can travel slower and stay longer in places. Eventually we want to move fast, like we did our first few years, and we'll likely downsize to a van we build out to take us places we want to go but can't get with this one... so you should consider purpose first. There is ALWAYS room for a dog or two! =)
@@CalledToWander I need a place to shower and sleep, I’ll be working a lot on my cannabis delivery company. I’m in Colorado so it needs to be good for cold weather.
As far as mileage goes, most people who get an RV use it for a few camping trips a year and most of the time it's within a few hundred miles. Do the math on that. If you did 4 trips to a place 300 miles away in a year, that's 2400 miles in a year. Low mileage is actually the norm for RVs. One other note, is that mileage is at close to the maximum capability of the drive train. Think about wear and tear on a pickup driven empty vs. the wear and tear on a pickup that towed a trailer weighing 16,000 pounds. So your 47,000 miles may be the equivilent of two or three times that. Plus sitting for long periods is not good on seals and other components of the drive train. Please don't get me wrong, that doesn't mean it's bad, I'm just saying be aware that "low mileage" is relative and actually the norm for these vehicles.
Thanks for the insight. That's why we did a boat load of preventative maintenance, had mechanics look it over and give attention to the things that looked shoddy or worn out. We ultimately replaced a few hoses with dry rot and the brakes and tires. But otherwise we've added 20K more miles without a hiccup! Thanks again!
However, they are built to carry loads unlike a truck or car. So while high mileage may be worse on an rv, low is not immediately 2x or 3x worse just because it is an rv.
@brianvandy4002 Excellent points! All questions to ask the seller about storage and hauling. I always read the comments and greatly appreciate those from mechanics or someone who has a lot of inside information about the automobile world! Thank you
Are you daily driving this bad boy?
So would a motorhome from 1999 that has 125,560 on it, all the records are in it, (two owners) would this be too high mileage? I can’t get under it but my son can next week. I got in it yesterday and dug through everything. I found three small spots where water got in from caulking that needs to be redone. Since it’s a Lazy Daze, I know it’s made well and those spots can be easily fixed. I haven’t gotten on top or under it, that’s where my son comes in. Plus he’s a mechanic so that’s a plus. Your video gave me so much more info. I saw I did a lot right, including walking little by little feeling for water damage. I know the engine ac wasn’t working and was blowing hot air on a 102 degree day in Fl 🤦♀️.
Wow! This is the most helpful guide to buying a used RV I’ve ever seen! Great job. We are driving our 6th RV now. Man how I wish I had seen this before having to learn all this the hard way. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Though it seems by now you must be quite the expert in shopping for RVs! We're hoping this one sticks around with us for a few years as shopping is so stressful! Thanks for the kind words!
Hear, hear! As a newbie I bought a 26 year old class c RV. I looks great and runs great. I liked the way it sounded and drove. Good so far, but I took the seller’s word for it that it was in impeccable shape and ready to go anywhere. My bad! Long story short I am now $6000 into repairs and I haven’t even taken it out yet except from my house to the repair place. And as old as it is apparently it’s so old that parts are obsolete, and extremely hard to find! I wish I had seen this great video before I bought my rv!
@@ohcliff1030
Ouch !!!!! I finally made my mind up to sell my 750HP 03 Cobra and get an RV. I guess I may have a small leg up having been an muscle car owner since 15 yrs old ( 53 now) but not assuming and am gona do my due diligence for sure , I mean my Cobra doesn't sleep 2 , have a bathroom or stove lol so , I'm pretty sure it's a bit more to consider and check when buying an RV as opposed to an Muscle car.
I sure hope you're getting things sorted out and are close if not already having some fun.
I would highly recommend changing the coolant and brake fluid. They will cause corrosion internally regardless of mileage. It's really just good to replace all the fluids on a new to you vehicle so that you have a baseline
Great advice! We're going to do a follow-up video shortly to talk about the next steps after finding a used RV and this is at the top of the list!
.1. Make sure the dashboard AC blows cold air, there is a vacuum hose buried behind the engine that rots and leaks vacuum, that is supposed to power an actuator that directs cold air out the dash vents. $1000 repair at an AC repair place. 2 Make sure RV generator starts easily and stays running. If it has not been run often, may need expensive servicing $1000. The house batteries start the generator, power interior lights and furnace blower, water pump and electronic controls, they go bad if not cared for with distilled water and kept charged. Usually two 6-volt special RV batteries in series or one larger one $200+. 3. The converter charger keeps your house batteries charged and interior lights, etc. lit when you are connected to camp power, make sure it is working, $150. 4.The roof AC unit should blow cold air,$1000 5.The furnace should heat immediately and respond to thermostat settings.$400 6. There should be no sidewall cracks in tires and they should be no more than 5 years old regardless of tread depth for safety ($300 x 6 apiece). 7.The pleated day/night window shades may need repairs/replacement.$50-100, each. Some minor water damage may be acceptable. RV's are generally not designed to stay water-proof and are not assembled by well trained people, emphasis is on speed, not much quality control. Refrigerators should be left on by seller to show that they work, they cost $1000 to replace. Slides are nice but may have mechanical problems and air and water leaks, and they are in the way when retracted. A typical Class C costs $50-100K+ new, depreciates quickly to $30K. holds value thereafter depending on amenities and condition.
Don't expect to buy a perfect used RV cheap and expect to spend DIY effort and RV repair money including maintenance, camp space rental, insurance and DMV fees, and 9-10mpg fuel costs, much like owning a cabin cruiser boat.
Thanks for the additions.
Have looked at literally hundreds of videos on what to look for when buying a used RV and and I have to say I really enjoyed your methodical manner you go through every aspect of your evaluation. Have saved this to waych again and again. Thank you
Awesome! Thank you! Glad it helped!
I'm in the middle of selling my house and want to move in a motorhome but I had no clue of what to do to inspect. I just learned today what the a,b,c category stand for. This video really opened my eyes to what I need to do when time comes in a month or 2. Thank you and subbed!
Thanks so much and glad it helped out!
Did you finally get that rv? @lpvpisfr33
Thanks so much for putting this together...I am in the process of looking around for a Class C. Appreciate you taking the time to do this...it's super helpful.
Thanks! We made it thorough because when we are really set on an RV we spend hours going through everything to try and figure out what we're up against and how much is reasonable to negotiate off the price. Hope you find the right one!
Same
This is by far the most helpful on class Cs I have seen!
Thank you so much🤩
Glad it was helpful!
I'm in the market for a class C..This video will come in handy when I find one that I like..I'm not opposed to buying an older one after watching this..thanks so much for all the info.
Awesome! Thanks so much for the compliment! Be patient and don't jump the gun on buying if it's not exactly what you want. The right RV is out there and more sellers are putting theirs on the market so good luck!
I think even with the tire issues.. u guys got a great rv for its age!!!
Absolutely! Although we did learn we also had to spend money on replacing all brake components as well. But overall we are pretty pleased with the purchase and love the RV so far! Thanks for watching and reaching out!
You can get a moisture sensor detector and put it on everything (the walls under everu window etc just like he did also don't forget under the beds. NEVER forget the slides and them. Oh btw you can get the handheld moisture sensor anywhere online etc and it's cheap ❤ thanks for all of the amazing advice!! Sorry one more thing with all of these hurricanes tornadoes "1000" year floods etc. Many NEW RV LOTS with their lots full these flooded RVs have been cleaned up and put on lots to be sold so please find out ok enough of me sorry
Great advice!
Please note that that year stamp on the bottom of fire extinguisher is not as important as the little gauge on top. You need to be sure that little tip is within green area of the gauge. If pointing out towards red it needs to be recharge or replace !
As long as it works when it is supposed to! Would rather replace one that might have a bit more life in it than need one that doesn't have life in it at all! Great advice though!
If I may add something that may help all RV'ers
Headlights, being able to see when driving is important lol.. there are many HL restoration kits out there , I've found Griots Garage Severe Headlight restoration kit is the best . I'm not a newbie ( was flown from my home here in North East to Arkansas to do a paint correction on an nice 02 WS6 Trans am) but this kit will give newbies professional results and your Headlights will stay clear for years not weeks or months. The Headlight coating the kit comes with is far superior to other kits "sealants" , where the plastic will re-haze in just a few months.
Thanks for your time making this video.
Thanks for watching and contributing to helping others! Yes, this is a great thing to do with an older RV if it is needed. We replaced the headlights in our old RV because they were beyond being cleaned. But this RV didn't require it.
Thank you so much, I learned so much. I’m checking out a used RV tomorrow, I’m glad I thought to check UA-cam. You did an awesome job!
Thanks! Hope it went well!
@@CalledToWander it did I bought it 2018 MBS Sunseeker
U nailed it.THEN RUNNING GEAR,THEN PLUMBING AND ELECTRICAL
Thorough inspections can take hours and unless you are a professional or have the time to hire one, you're right there is always more. At the time of this video (early COVID RV-boom) used Rvs were selling sight unseen by people who were receiving free governement money sitting at home on their couches. Because we didn't receive these checks, we had to do our best to inspect our used RV options as thoroughly as we could and we shared these best tips. We had 2 RVs we spent hours inspecting sell out from underneath us overnight because we asked to "Sleep on" the decision to buy the next day. This is a primer for most people. Everyone should do their due diligence.
Good job! Very detailed and thorough. Thanks for making this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Really really helpful. Nicely done. Enjoy your travels
Glad it was helpful!
The most important thing is the price, if they charge it as new it has to be new, otherwise it has to have room to repair it.
Price is a factor but there are some truly good deals out there where price isn't the whole story. But clearly we don't want people overpaying for a lemon. That's why we're thorough about how to look for everything that might be negotiable in the price.
Thank you very much! I needed this advice!!!
You're welcome! We hope you find the best deal out there and enjoy it!
One of the better videos on buying a used RV I have seen. One thing that wasn't mentioned was having the RV inspected by a certified RV inspector. The reason I mention that is just about every thing I have read or seen they recommend having not only used but even new RVs professionally inspected. What are your thoughts on that?
Good point. However when we put this video together (just after purchasing) RVs we’re flying out the door sight unseen. Under normal market conditions if you have a week or more to arrange for an inspection they yes, it’s a good idea. However we had 3 RVs sell out from underneath us overnight when we were shopping so this is the best we could out together considering no RV was waiting for an inspectors schedule
Very helpful video. I’m in the process of looking for an RV as a first timer buyer and will be using tips from this for inspecting. Looking for something roughly 2-3 years old due to depreciation. You’re RV looks like it’s in great shape.
Glad it was helpful! Ours is in great shape for being 25 years old!
Thorough video. Very informative. Thank you for posting.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thank you so much for educating us on an used vehicle.
Glad it was helpful! Hope you find the right one out there!
Good job explaining everything you did a awesome job enjoy it with your wife and family stay blessed
Thanks 👍
Thank you for the reply.
Happy to help!
One thing you can do also is high an RV inspector. I don’t know enough about engines so that’s what I’ll do. They also check all the systems and systems and construction issues as well. It’s worth it. But inspecting it first yourself is good then if it’s the rig you want call in the professionals. Thanks for this information.
If you have the time and resources, yes this is a great idea. At the time we purchased ours, RVs were being purchases sight unseen. Demand was stupid high and supply was limited. So we made this video for anyone who wanted to give it their best shot. But great point.
@@CalledToWanderso true about having the time! Especially if you think you’ve found something for a good price,those sometimes sell in one day,and if they don’t there’s usually a reason! I think any used RV that you have time to hire an inspector must be at a premium price or it has something wrong with it and that’s why people are passing on it.I guess geographical reasons would come into play,but in my case being in a suburb of Houston good deals go fast,not just from people looking to buy one for themselves but people wanting to flip them.
Thank you for this great walk-through and pointers!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job detailing an inspection of the rv.
Thanks! 👍
Newbie here, how do I check if a class C can tow my car behind it?
It’s more the other way around. You need to check if your car can be towed and how (flat, dolly or trailer). Most Class C will have the towing capacity for small to mid size cars, but that’s your next step. Check the manufacturers tow limits. Then it is a matter of getting the right tow equipment installed on your motorhome and car. We use Roadmaster and have nothing but good things to say about that.
Learned a lot thank you. I'm looking for my first used rv class c. You are very thorough in your inspection. Does that negate having to hire a certified rv inspector. Have you had any instances where you needed a 2nd opinion ? Secondly, you preferred a Ford V10. Is it because of the power and reliability vs. other power trains and chassis ? Bear with me this is my first submission.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and reach out! We know what to look for when it comes to the interior and exterior of an RV and we tried to show how tedious our personal inspections are. We'll spend several hours once we decide we are looking at an RV worth following up with. We don't know the engine side of things well - so we call our mechanic friend and have him listen to the engine and give us a few pointers from a mechanical side of things. So it is definitely worth an inspector IF you find one that will identify mechanical issues. When we sold our last RV the buyer hired an inspector for $500 who did nothing more than take pictures and write notes. We told the buyer all of the mechanical issues ourselves and he addressed it himself. So inspectors are hit or miss. We definitely found out a few things after the fact we wish we had negotiated (bad tires = $1,800 + bad brakes = $1,000) and none of the fluids had been changed (we did those ourselves and would have done it anyway)... In a seller's market there is no time to hire an inspector. But as lots of people are selling now post-COVID, prices are coming down and there is time for you to work with a seller. 2 years ago you pretty much had to decide on the spot... but we always say, if the timing is not right, then it's not right for us... as for the V10 - this was insisted by our Ford mechanic friend who said we'd never have an issue with the engine, mechanically nor with hauling the weight we inherited with a 31 foot Class C. So far the engine has been happy in our care and we haven't had any major issues nor do we anticipate it! Hope this helps!
Thank you so much for your video 😊 as a buyer you in my Humble opinion are just like a professional inspector with your walk around and through 😊😊 you talk slow, you know your stuff 😊😊😊. I like how that E-450 Ford has power steering reservoir in front up top. The Three Aid Ambulance type vehicle that I service for a Fire Cadet REHAB program. The power steering reservoir was way down by firewall. Unless you knew where to look, it could be overlooked ( bad) when buting used, the new owner might overlook because they cant see it. I personally don't like the Ford E style fronts on RVs, like the regular truck syle fronts. Thats just me because I service 3 of them in Ambulance 🚑 type fronts. The inside engine cover is had to remove because on Ambulance 🚑
Un cab you have engine removable cover all covered over top with emergency Light switches and siren control box, radio ect.
I highly recommend that anyone looking to build there own back as a custom RV.
Buy a used Ambulance 🚑 like are Rehab units do NOT respond code RED to calls, so normal driving for YEARS of there life
There is oiwer already to rear of box, the framing is built STRONGER. And you can easily plug a gen set into back box for portable 110 power without having ro run your engine. The big thing is you must build your rear compartment. I have seen guys with very little building experience go to work and make excellent bed set ups in them. With pota potty you can just dump in bathroom at any rest stop. The reason I bring up an Ambulance 🚑 is because some ho dirt cheap. We just surplus one of are Diesel Aid Rigs. And God is my witness, the Rig is water proof and RUNS excellent.I left the scene lights on box body, so new owner already has large lights for all around outside of unit.
Big rear bumper for easy step up into back. Lots of cargo compartment all around outside of box. One we keep portable Generator in a Honda 2000
It powered up the whole back for lightning and plug ins. Lots of roof lights inside back compartment. It had access to front from box. Seat belts on bench seat, and stretcher rods locks on floor were easy to remove. Ambulance make great RV conversation 😊😊😊
Thanks for watching and sharing such good insight!
Every possible thing has been covered. Good information!
Glad you think so!
Great video! As a senior female preparing to purchase my first RV this checklist is a must! Did you say it was a document you have available?
Thanks for watching and glad it was helpful! We do not have a checklist for download, but do have a post that is easier to skim through and covers each topic: calledtowander.com/tips-for-buying-a-used-rv-checklist/
Same here. 58, getting ready to start enjoying life.
I would add that having a moisture meter handy can reveal moisture before it becomes obvious.
Agree.
WOWWWW YOUR SO HONESTY SIR .AGAIN A BIG WOWWWW FOR YOU. 120%00 YOUR RADIAL.
Thanks
First I would of popped the hood & checked all the fluids before starting engine. Then check for any thing hanging or broken.
Good tips. We left those out but certainly checked before driving off
Thanks for the best info I’ve come across in the last 3 years I have looked online for an RV! After all this time, I finally saw my first used Class C in person a few days ago. I’m going back later this week to really start checking everything out & test drive with owner. First concern was that it didn’t start; due to leaving the backup camera plugged in, according to the owner. Unfortunately, inspecting some things including the roof isn’t a possibility for me at 68 with spinal fractures. I was reassured, verbally only of course, that all leaks & moisture have not been present for the last year after she had roof resealed. Old delamination areas had been voluntarily pointed out by owner.
One of my questions is that it’s winterized, so is there still a way to check the plumbing fixtures?
Hoping your inspection went well. That's a good question - we don't deal with anything related to the word "winter" so we would not shop for an RV that ever spent any amount of time where it had to be winterized. We did find with ours that the pipes froze and we had to redo the plumbing for all of our fixtures. But we were going to do that anyway. Sorry we can't provide a more specific answer!
Excellent discussion. Are you willing to share what you paid for the vehicle?
It does not matter what we paid for it because the market dictates what you will pay if you are shopping. For example, buying in the middle of COVID, which was just months later, in California this RV would have cost 2-3 times what we paid for it. If we sold it tomorrow in the dead of winter after the big RV craze has passed, we'd get half of what we bought it for. This particular model ranges from 4K to over 30K. It's not the answer you want. But this is a better answer than saying we paid 15K or 25K or whatever.
You are awesome man, thank you.
Humbled. Lindsay would say otherwise. But I'm flattered at your kind words! =)
Wonderful video. Thank you for sharing. Was wondering why you were set on a Ford V10 engine?
Our 30+ year Ford mechanic friend shared with us that aside from the 7.3L diesel engine that we had previously, and is not in motorhomes, this V10 is the best out there. But he also said to be aware of the need to have spark plugs torqued to spec and to keep an eye on the bolts in the exhaust manifold. If you watch our recent videos, you'll see we had issues and addressed each! Every engine has its pros and cons. But we trusted our friend in this decision and it worked out great.
Excellent video. Thank you for making it. This will be a big help in my search. NADA also has a website for RV values that I'll consult since it's hard to analyze value for these. Good stuff and thanks again.
thanks so much! NADA told us the value of this RV is only 4K. But it is worth so much more - especially when we bought it in the middle of such a crazed RV market in COVID. So use NADA as a reference point. At the end of the day, something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. So if that 10K asking price sits long enough, you could get it for 5K. Or if 10 people show up for it on the same day it could jump to 20K. NADA can be somewhat useful. But lots of study of what's actually out there is important. We actually worked with our insurance company on a stated value to the RV after remodeling ours because there is no way we could replace this RV for the 4K NADA said it was worth. We have 4K in batteries, inverter, solar and wiring components alone!
Changed or not. You should always change oil as soon as you buy any used vehicle.
Good advice.
1:01 what do you think would be the normal price on a RV LIKE YOURS say. 2004 32 ft. With one slide out
Sorry Rudy, but there is absolutely no way to answer this question as markets vary so much. Covid caused a massive spike in values for a short time and things are getting more realistic now. And beyond geographical markets, the condition of the RV changes everything. Ours was in 80% good condition with the 20% being things we knew we could easily address. A 2004 with one slide out when we purchased ours during covid - assuming low mileage and all appliances work - would probably be in the 15-20K range on the East Coast. West Coast prices tend to be higher. Now the 15-20K is probably in the 20-30K because people still think they can get top dollar covid pricing on their RVs. But I'd say the price is whatever I felt I could offer based on what work I knew it would need - just like buying a home.
Great video and good advice, you don't mention looking for rodent damage, especially after a long storage, we bought a 30 year old class A with evidence of rodent damage in the kitchen cupboards and a few other areas, cheers from OZ
Great tip!
This is very helpful Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
thank you for the tips
No problem! Every RV is different so there are other things to consider. But wanted to give at least a primer on the search!
Excellent video, I’m on the market for a used Class C. You got yourself a new subscriber. Hello from Puerto Rico. 👍. Not all who wander are lost. 💪
Awesome! Thank you!
What a pretty RV! A little dated but looks like it was in excellent condition! 😃
We completely remodeled it so it doesn’t look dated anymore. The tour video is on our channel 😃
Thank you for this information. Very handy ☺️
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to watch!
Hi there thanks for all information Really really helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Good advice - the most importend is by far: bring you Partner with you when you visit / buy a RV.
Best Regards, Alfred
Absolutely! How could I forget such an important thing like that!
@@CalledToWander :-)
Great walk-through😊 thank you.
You are so welcome!
Take a creeper( flat/wheeled, add a board for head/ neck support, another board to use as a runway underneath. Broom, webs & spiders , gloves , Notepad & pen , chalk to mark tire holes, spray bottle, hand soap or dish, in a ziplock, for tires, dirty tire #vin &stats plates, lol hands, multi meter, air pump gauge, fridge thermometer level, to check theirs, tape measure small L bracket or for checking if it's square, , meas height, width length at random areas, this can prove potent. Frame issues smell. The drains. Stinky? Why? Test the H2O. Check the grey tank sensors at least, check dumping system, hoses. Rock it from inside & listen! Cracks, groans, squeals? Ha ha . Smell the cushions. If poss do a black out test, cover all windows, doors when it's dark check the spaces,. See light? Haha take a roll. Of blue tape, mark issues& write notes, # each taped site ! There's always the ' make it rain ' test, if they let you, garden hose, spray attachment, one with a detention allows a roof leak & undercarriage check., fully spray each window with someone I side
Sounds good
Excellent! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Great info. Thx fir sharing
Glad it was helpful!
It didnt blow up! And hearing the chuckling.. im a new fan lol
Thanks! Gotta have some humor in life!
Thank you for this thorough explanation of what you looked for in a used RV. I hope to be purchasing a rig in the next year(God willing)
Did you walk the roof during your inspection?
Glad it was helpful! And hope it works out to find and buy the right RV! Yes to the roof! We didn't show that part of the inspection, but we definitely climbed on the roof. I walked every inch, foot over foot, to make sure there were no soft spots. I also checked the roof material, which is where we realized that we needed to reseal the roof (something we felt comfortable doing ourselves, and have a video on if you get to that point!). We also inspected the vent covers and ended up replacing a few (again, not a deal breaker in a 22 year old RV!). So yes, definitely spend time inspecting the roof. Keep us posted in your search and let us know if we can help at all!
How did you fix the fridge? Was it costly?
So this fix was just a new motherboard, which we purchased for around $100 on Amazon and installed in around an hour. It was plug and play and worked great... THEN, later we had to replace the thermistor, which was another affordable repair we could do on our own. BUT THEN later we also had the entire cooling unit break and we paid $700 for a professional to install a remanufactured one. So, this particular fix was easy - but knowing what was down the line, we were around $1000 in fridge repairs (but it works AMAZING now, just like new!)
What website would you recommend to do that vin number search
CarFax
CarFax is worth the money if you've narrowed down your search. We wouldn't pay for 5 options. But once we narrowed it down to 1-2 it would be worth having that on hand to help make the decisions.
Thank you so much for this video. It's so helpful!!
Glad it's helpful for you! Thanks for watching and reaching out!
Wow! If that's used, they took good care of it.
It sat in a covered storage facility for at least 7-8 years with no use... if you want to call that taking care of anything lol
Thanks for a great walkthrough !!! You mentioned getting an RV with a Ford V10 was a 'must' for you...May I ask why ? Many Class C's seem to be on the Chevy platform...is the Ford more reliable ? More efficient ? Thanks again !!
When we were doing our search for a class c we hardly ever saw any chevy platforms…. Ford definitely seemed to be the more popular choice
Does the generator power the ac outlets?
Yes! Great question! The generator will power all the 110V ac outlets. So will an automatic transfer switch connected to an inverter... but that's a bit more complicated. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Awesome video!!!
Thanks!!
what an amazing video you have both made here!...It's worthy of an Oscar! - :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
Some Water damage-walk away? Price reduction? Who, what, where, when, why, and how? Thanks bunches!!!!
We DON'T touch anything with water damage. It is too much work and way too costly. Typically a small leak will have been left over time. So not only will you have the leak itself on the roof or side or wherever, but also the water will have dripped down the side walls and can damage the structure where it is unseen. Definitely drop the price, by multiple thousands - depending on the type, age, etc. It's turning back toward a buyer's market with the way too inflated prices coming down. So hard ball the seller if there is water damage. Chances are, they're selling because they didn't want to deal with it... You CAN fix water damage. And with out previous RV that we bought without knowing anything about RVs, we DID fix water damage... and that experience taught us it's better to keep shopping than to try and repair water damage. Hope that helps?!
It should be noted that if the speedometer isn't working, it is likely the odometer is off. Most vehicles the speedo and odometer are driven from the same cable.
Thanks! We’ll look into getting it fixed one day!
Most late model vehicles speedometer is electronic and no longer use a cable. The sensor is mounted on the transmission. My 2004 Ford e450Thor has no speedometer cable. Instruments are servo motors that move the needles in the gauges.
@Bobby Bishop that said, many newer vehicles ( in the last 10 or 12 years) you can edit the computer throught the ODBII port to set your current tire size to correct your speed/odometer. And, yes, they are no longer cable driven, but they both use the same tire size setting to calculate mph and distance travelled.
@@brianvandy4002 yes I got an S10 with 18s and the speedo is off like 10 mph to the slow side. The instrument cluster in 2000s Chevys are garbage. Those servo gauges are pretty much worthless. I did major surgery on the cluster and replaced them all with aftermarket mechanical gauges. Real pain but worth it .
When you found out the speedo doesn’t work didn’t that make you question the mileage? If the speedo doesn’t work it’s quite likely the odometer doesn’t work either.
The speedometer does work, it’s just the needle sits at 40, not at 0. Once the vehicle reaches 40 and over the speedo works fine. The odometer works. We’ve put over 20,000 miles on this RV. Bought it at 47k, now has 71k on it. We record all of the mileage we’ve driven in this. We also have a engine reader with Bluetooth & the speed that shows on that has always matched the speedo. If the speedo did not work at all, then I would’ve questioned if the odometer worked. Have had this RV now for almost 3 years & 0 issues.
Great video I've been thinking about a 1995 ford camper 58.000 miles the tires date code is super and leaking seals and maintenance etc great help thank you I'm thinking about using a phone camera selfie stick under where motor for oil leaks etc great tips Info.
Glad to help! That's a great tip - but a lot of the older RVs would be remiss if they weren't leaking. Definitely check underneath for rust but also don't hesitate to hire a mechanic to give a good inspection of the engine. That's always the weakest part of our inspection process because we don't know engines as well as other parts of the RV. Good shopping!
@@CalledToWander thanks I do know a lot about engines drivetrain etc what I did not know about rv s is how poorly designed and built many are until I watched tons of videos but great tips and info thanks again.
Smart video
Thanks!
I realize this video is 3 years old but I would like to ask you a question in hopes that you will reply. Why were you set on the Chevy V-10 6.8L and no other?
Our friend who is a 30+ year Ford mechanic said they were the most powerful and reliable. The same engine is in larger Class A and, as we have found, it pulls the same uphill with our 4,000 tow car as it does without it. No power concerns.
Thanks, bro!
Happy to help!
Good info on inspection. We also like Mic Ultra!! 😁👍🍻
The best beer for budgeting and dieting!
Is it the original motor? Under the hood one of the air intake hoses has econoline on it
Original motor.
Thank You young man😊
No problem 😊
Useful tips !
Thank you so much!
Are there certain Class C brands that you would recommend uf one is looking for a used RV? If one to go all in on solar 400. watts or more can you eliminate propane altogether? If not should the fridge be a 3 way?
Brands are not always as important as the inspection you do. But some engines are known to perform better than others. We're Ford people, so we were only looking for RV brands that offered the Ford V10 engine... In terms of solar, that's another topic we will have to address separately in another video. There are all sorts of calculations you'd need to do to determine how much battery you would need to run how many electrical devices for how long so that you can estimate how much solar you will need. We like the general rule of cover the entire roof the best you can and have as big a battery bank as you can fit and afford... And the 3-way fridges typically draw HUGE amounts of power from 12V battery bank, especially compared to running on propane or when plugged into shore power. We would not run a standard 3-way fridge on batteries at any time because we prefer propane anyway.
How I wish I saw this video before buying the lemon of a shuttle bus I wasted my money on. Tough life lesson....
So sorry! Hopefully you were able to get out from underneath it and move on to something better?!
@@CalledToWander thank you ❤️ I believe God is providing a path to make the sweetest lemonade out of this bitter lemon of an experience. In the meantime, please join me in prayer that He restores the money I lost and provides the best camper for my full time, tiny house, nomad transition with all the resources and wisdom necessary to acquire it.
VERY appreciated; thank you!!
You're very welcome!
Is the Ford V10 a great engine?
It’s a beast. They’re in everything from smaller vans to our size RV and even some Class A motorhomes. Easy to work on. Common parts. Only issue for us is too much power- 7mpg. It’s so powerful we get the same mpg when we tow our Honda CRV as when we don’t!
Oh my goodness. This beast looks similar to ours.
It's a fairly common looking RV in the 31 foot range. Not the short Class C, but plenty of space inside!
thank you
You're welcome!
When I bought my 97 Ford E-350 class C in 2019, I checked the radiator hoses, after I had already took it home, and found out, that every thing was original, this man was sneaky he had just bought 2 in house batteries so everything worked just fine for our first 2 nights of our first trip later I found out that the battery inverter was not working so in the 4 years I've have had it I've replaced the radiator hoses water pump, serpentine belt, all the fluids, upper and Lower ball joints, both tiered ends and 2 more suspension rods , it's good to check the deferential oil, mine was almost like Liquid roofing sealer, I replaced it, in December 2022 I replaced all 7 tires and bought 4 Aluminum wheels, I installed a front end reciver and bought a 12,000 pound winch just incase, I extended a rear platform 3ft for a large tool box and to house the winch and batteries tools and tow ropes, it's been a lot but I hope it's ready for a 1 month trip to baja.
The older they are, generally, the more work they need. We had honest sellers who honestly didn't know what was good or bad with the motorhome as it was donated to their nonprofit and they just wanted to sell it for cash. Good news is that if you do have issues in Baja, the Mexican people there are amazing and you'll find help. We know Baja well... including many, many broken things.
A rig that old would need all the maintenance you mentioned.
what's a good RV brand to buy ? im looking for a 23-26 foot range drivable rv as it will be my new home as im living my SUV now
Honestly I'd only look at Winebago's if buying new.. Jayco's use to be great but then Thor bought them out in 2016. If you're looking at used pre-2017 I'd look at Winnebago, Jayco and Fleetwood
Our Class C motorhome is a Shasta and great quality but I believe they quit making drivable RVs in the early 2000's
Appreciate the vid
Appreciate the positive comment!
I bought mine from a bus company they said they sealed everything I’ve never owned one didn’t know what to look for nothing was sealed I had to rubberize and seal the entire roof. There’s water damage that I have found on the walls. Then one of the owners of the company passed away, so getting it titled into my name was a bitch because they didn’t sign off. Now I’m having to restore it before we can even use it
Buying used is scary. But new is crazy expensive and no guarantees they’re going to be any better.
Why the V-10 preferences? What year did they stop the spark plug problem?
Our 30+ year Ford mechanic said this was the best engine we’d find for any class C rv. The spark plugs are only a problem if the mechanic doesn’t take the time to install them correctly. See above, our mechanic knows what he’s doing so we don’t worry.
@@CalledToWander I have researched this issue and there was an engineering change! I’ve forgotten the year but I’d never buy one before that change!
@@CalledToWander so you’re saying we should rely on our mechanic to know what to do! How’s that working for everyone else? Even the majority of cardiologists still believe fat causes heart disease! We can’t rely on others without doing our own research 🧐
In your experience is there a typical used RV age that one should stay within? I have read At depreciation levels off at 5 years. Would 5-10 years be ideal?
We don't make decisions on depreciation. We make them on what we can afford and what the market presents to us. We know many RVers with brand new RVs that have more issues than those like ours that are over 20 years old with all original parts. And what condition is the RV in? Do you need to replace a roof at 5 years that was not well maintained but not need to replace one on a well-maintained 10 year old (or older) RV? And if you want to stay in some RV "resorts" many are making rules excluding any RV over 10 years old. We don't want to go to those places anyway. So what the market says and what you can afford for what you want - that's the best year.
Why the "no over 10 years old" policy for some campgrounds?
When do fire extinguishers expire?
Every few years. You can check the date on the bottom of the extinguisher. It's usually there in indentation. You can take expired ones to a local fire department or... see how a fire extinguisher works firsthand!
@@CalledToWander , thank you so much!!!
First Rv owner My husband Paul and I bought a 2000 Catalina sport e450 was it ok to buy this RV it did have some water damage?
It is OK if you know how to stop the water damage from getting worse. We had to deal with an active leak with our previous RV and it was a lot of work and a bit of money to fix that. So we make sure that there is no water damage both for our comfort and peace of mind as well as the resale value of the RV. If you can identify where the leak is and stop it and are comfortable living in the RV as it is, then it's not a problem. But otherwise you may want to invest in repairing it. Water damage won't stop until you stop the leak. So just be mindful of that and let us know if we can help in any way!
nice. very.
Many many thanks
What kind of engine is it..
Ford stopped making the 6.8 L V10 ....
So now what about repair parts...???
Just because Ford quit making it doesn’t mean parts will stop being made. The V10 is one of the most common ford engines ever made and it’s base is used in their 5.4L V8 engines (the only real difference is 2 added cylinders). In fact it’s the most heavily produced V10 ever sold in America
Thanks
No problem!
YOU ~ ROCK ! ! 🤛
Thanks!
Any differences between a 2008, 2009 and 2010 Gulf stream independence 8359?
You’ll have to do that research on your own. Sorry, we only know our motorhome specs.
Yes! RV's that drive can get awful from just sitting.
I'm learning the wisdom more and more in a rolling stone gathering no moss! Our biggest issues seem to come more from times when we're stationary than when we're constantly moving and using things the way they were intended!
Is the ford v10 actually that reliable? Never dealt with one.
We've put 40,000 miles on the motor doing only routine maintenance.
Thank you soo much for this informative video 🙏🏾 I’m in the process
Glad it was helpful!
This video was very helpful. I have 4 pages of notes. Thank you! This made me get up and check how old our fire extinguisher is and it said 94’.💀 omg. It’s 17 years past the expiration date. I think we should get a new one. 😂
Yikes! Definitely test the alarms too. Not that you ever hope to have to use them... But in our first RV we had a bad LPG alarm and when I swapped it out it immediately went off! We thought it was defective... until we started to smell the propane building up in the camper! Turns out our furnace had a leak and the alarm was doing its job!
@@CalledToWander ohh nooo! That could have ended badly! Glad y’all caught it and I’ll check it out. Thank you
I would argue if the speedometer doesn’t work right the other gauges don’t.
Well, they do! Speedometer works perfect once we hit 35 mph. Odometer reads correctly, as does tripometer. And we have an engine code reader that verifies the accuracy of other gauges.
@@CalledToWander that’s good! With these digital systems these days it’s hard to trust when there is a known fault in part of it. How many foot RV would you say is needed for full time living (1 person 1 dog)
@@annoythedonkey We have manual everything in this 1999 RV on purpose (gauges, windows, seats, locks) as we've found electronic things (even brand new) fail more frequently and are harder to repair than digital/electronic. We can actually hit the dash board and the speedometer needle will go back to zero and give us accurate reading up ontil it gets stuck again at 35 mph! As for the size of the RV, that is totally up to you and your comfort. One person and one dog might fit much better into a truck camper like we had at first than we did with 2 people and 2 dogs. Or you may be fine in a van. There are always trade offs and you need to know what the goal is of the RV. For us, this RV was not an "Adventure mobile." It is a comfortable office/living space where we can travel slower and stay longer in places. Eventually we want to move fast, like we did our first few years, and we'll likely downsize to a van we build out to take us places we want to go but can't get with this one... so you should consider purpose first. There is ALWAYS room for a dog or two! =)
@@CalledToWander I need a place to shower and sleep, I’ll be working a lot on my cannabis delivery company. I’m in Colorado so it needs to be good for cold weather.