My system runs between 27 and 35 PSI. I replaced the filter sand, fingers, and pressure gage last year and have determined that my number of outlets is too few and 1.5" pipe dia. is too small for my pool's 19,000 gal. The pump appears to have been sized such that its capable of a full 3X water turnover in a 24h period, but in order to get that flow rate it has to push the water too fast through the system resulting in the high pressure readings. My filter is rated to 50 PSI so I am just dealing with it for now as re-plumbing isn't really an option. I'm able to keep everything clear with roughly 1.5 turnovers per day, so my plan is to upgrade to variable speed and try to hit that number or a bit higher with much lower flow rates for more hours of the day. The next time I need a new liner I am thinking I may decrease the pool's volume by decreasing the deep end from 9' to 6'. Is that the best I can do given the limitations of my system? Thanks for all your advice on this channel! I have found it very helpful as I've been learning after moving into this home.
Try removing or I stalling larger size return eyelets. It should reduce operating pressure. If the pool continues to clear floating debris then this is good. 50 psi is burst pressure rating. No filter should ever operate higher than 30 psi. Your pump is too powerful for your system. Change eyelets to 1" size and see if this gets you into acceptable pressure territory. A filter at 35 psi would make my butt tight to even be near. If you had some air trapped in the filter too we are talking extremely danergerous.
As an conservative estimate for area of a filter housing of 24 by 36 and neglecting the top and bottom areas you get 2712 sq in. Multiply times 30 PIS to get 81,360 pounds of pressure or about 40 tons. This is nothing to mess with.
Hi Steve! I’m a female pool contractor from CT. I love your videos, i was looking for an answer to a particular question, when you’re installing a liner with a high water table, what are ways you mitigate the water issue? Vinyl liner btw, I usually pop a hole for a pump when it’s really bad. Was wondering if you had any tips!! Thank you so much 😊😊
I live where liners dominate the market and we have high water tables regionally here also. There are many ways to combat the problem. One is just running a submersible pump in the bottom of the deep end for a few days. This helps to lower the water table immediately around the pool, temporarily. If there is a sump pit, which there should always be when there is high water tables, obviously run that also. But sometimes water tables change over the decades with development in your area and a pool that was dry in the 80's or 90's is flooded half way to the shallow end or more daily. In these cases you prep the pool and drop the liner, getting the vacuums running. Position quickly and start filling. The water on top will displace the water under the liner, as it should, and usually a hose or two is enough. In a bad situation I would have a water truck to get some water in the pool quickly. So basically someone in the deep end vacuuming it dry while the shallow end liner is positioned. Then stretch it over the deep end, set the vacuums and start filling once the liner is positioned without wrinkles. You might end up putting a bunch of water through your vacuums as the pool is filling. Get the pool full to operational level quickly, and that is pretty much it. No magic, just hustle and some good luck, hopefully. Cheers.
Steve my DE filter pressure is 25 yet poor circulation in pool and low output on small fountain . When I switch to circulation only pool runs perfectly. I cleaned DE filter . Still low output?
This is very good advice Steve! You're absolutely right about the pressure gauge. I replaced one two years ago and it wasn't as straightforward as I thought. There was the thought if over tighning, it would break the gauge, and I wasn't aware until now that it could break the filter also. I test the pressure both visually and by touch. I visually check the pressure gauge, and I also check the water from the return. If I don't feel a force, then I would know the gauge is incorrect. I opened my pool in early June, and so far the pressure is still the same, and didn't change at all.
I noticed that my filter cartridges get slightly dirty and the pressure goes up dramatically. Does the brand of cartridge make a lot of difference? I have a hayward C4030. Any suggestions?
Multi-element filters are better than single element in this regard. When you clean your filters, are you decreasing thrmen or just spraying off the gunk? Also, what is your debris load like in the pool? Are you skimmer and pump baskets picking up the larger debris as they should be? Also sizing is important, with bigger being better for longer maintenance cycles before the pressure rises, But a Hayward 4030 cartridge filter is plenty big enough for pretty much any residential pool. Do you vacuum debris into the filter often, or do you have a diverter valve between the pump and filter to facilitate vacuuming heavy debris loads to waste? These are my immediate thoughts. Cheers
I’m learning as I go. My pool builder abandoned me before teaching us anything about the care and upkeep. We only get debris in the pool when it storms with very high winds. I empty the skimmers daily. I only spray them off. Can I use dish washing soap to decrease them? I will research “mutli-element filters”. i’ve never heard of that. Thanks!
I have another really bad problem, the top light screw won’t catch in an old plastic niche it’s stripped. Losing water like crazy, tried bigger screw won’t work. Please I’ll pay you 50$ if you can give me a solution. Short of draining and replacing the niche idk what to do
Use a small piece of yard trimmer plastic wire in the hole first. It takes a skilled hand. You DONT want to bind up and sheer the screw. But aside, a light screw that holds the light in the niche at top dead center would not relate to a leak.
My system runs between 27 and 35 PSI. I replaced the filter sand, fingers, and pressure gage last year and have determined that my number of outlets is too few and 1.5" pipe dia. is too small for my pool's 19,000 gal. The pump appears to have been sized such that its capable of a full 3X water turnover in a 24h period, but in order to get that flow rate it has to push the water too fast through the system resulting in the high pressure readings. My filter is rated to 50 PSI so I am just dealing with it for now as re-plumbing isn't really an option. I'm able to keep everything clear with roughly 1.5 turnovers per day, so my plan is to upgrade to variable speed and try to hit that number or a bit higher with much lower flow rates for more hours of the day. The next time I need a new liner I am thinking I may decrease the pool's volume by decreasing the deep end from 9' to 6'. Is that the best I can do given the limitations of my system? Thanks for all your advice on this channel! I have found it very helpful as I've been learning after moving into this home.
Try removing or I stalling larger size return eyelets. It should reduce operating pressure. If the pool continues to clear floating debris then this is good. 50 psi is burst pressure rating. No filter should ever operate higher than 30 psi. Your pump is too powerful for your system. Change eyelets to 1" size and see if this gets you into acceptable pressure territory. A filter at 35 psi would make my butt tight to even be near. If you had some air trapped in the filter too we are talking extremely danergerous.
As an conservative estimate for area of a filter housing of 24 by 36 and neglecting the top and bottom areas you get 2712 sq in. Multiply times 30 PIS to get 81,360 pounds of pressure or about 40 tons. This is nothing to mess with.
Hi Steve! I’m a female pool contractor from CT. I love your videos, i was looking for an answer to a particular question, when you’re installing a liner with a high water table, what are ways you mitigate the water issue? Vinyl liner btw, I usually pop a hole for a pump when it’s really bad. Was wondering if you had any tips!! Thank you so much 😊😊
I live where liners dominate the market and we have high water tables regionally here also. There are many ways to combat the problem. One is just running a submersible pump in the bottom of the deep end for a few days. This helps to lower the water table immediately around the pool, temporarily. If there is a sump pit, which there should always be when there is high water tables, obviously run that also. But sometimes water tables change over the decades with development in your area and a pool that was dry in the 80's or 90's is flooded half way to the shallow end or more daily. In these cases you prep the pool and drop the liner, getting the vacuums running. Position quickly and start filling. The water on top will displace the water under the liner, as it should, and usually a hose or two is enough. In a bad situation I would have a water truck to get some water in the pool quickly. So basically someone in the deep end vacuuming it dry while the shallow end liner is positioned. Then stretch it over the deep end, set the vacuums and start filling once the liner is positioned without wrinkles. You might end up putting a bunch of water through your vacuums as the pool is filling. Get the pool full to operational level quickly, and that is pretty much it. No magic, just hustle and some good luck, hopefully. Cheers.
Steve my DE filter pressure is 25 yet poor circulation in pool and low output on small fountain . When I switch to circulation only pool runs perfectly. I cleaned DE filter . Still low output?
Very helpful
This is very good advice Steve! You're absolutely right about the pressure gauge. I replaced one two years ago and it wasn't as straightforward as I thought. There was the thought if over tighning, it would break the gauge, and I wasn't aware until now that it could break the filter also. I test the pressure both visually and by touch. I visually check the pressure gauge, and I also check the water from the return. If I don't feel a force, then I would know the gauge is incorrect. I opened my pool in early June, and so far the pressure is still the same, and didn't change at all.
Have you ever heard of a filter exploding? Mine did. The top blew off and the bottom half cracked in two.
I noticed that my filter cartridges get slightly dirty and the pressure goes up dramatically. Does the brand of cartridge make a lot of difference? I have a hayward C4030. Any suggestions?
Multi-element filters are better than single element in this regard. When you clean your filters, are you decreasing thrmen or just spraying off the gunk? Also, what is your debris load like in the pool? Are you skimmer and pump baskets picking up the larger debris as they should be? Also sizing is important, with bigger being better for longer maintenance cycles before the pressure rises, But a Hayward 4030 cartridge filter is plenty big enough for pretty much any residential pool. Do you vacuum debris into the filter often, or do you have a diverter valve between the pump and filter to facilitate vacuuming heavy debris loads to waste? These are my immediate thoughts. Cheers
I’m learning as I go. My pool builder abandoned me before teaching us anything about the care and upkeep. We only get debris in the pool when it storms with very high winds. I empty the skimmers daily.
I only spray them off. Can I use dish washing soap to decrease them? I will research “mutli-element filters”. i’ve never heard of that. Thanks!
I have another really bad problem, the top light screw won’t catch in an old plastic niche it’s stripped. Losing water like crazy, tried bigger screw won’t work. Please I’ll pay you 50$ if you can give me a solution. Short of draining and replacing the niche idk what to do
Use a small piece of yard trimmer plastic wire in the hole first. It takes a skilled hand. You DONT want to bind up and sheer the screw. But aside, a light screw that holds the light in the niche at top dead center would not relate to a leak.