I started up my pool today and the pressure was about 3 psi. An hour later, it was about 13. Yesterday, it was 10. Not sure why the variation, but until recently my gauge read: 0. I put a garden hose with a blow bag in the pipe on the pump side and cleared the skimmer line (after two pool companies had failed to accomplish that with their compressed air and various techniques), so now I finally have pressure. I digress, but it's really nice to see some pressure, any pressure, after running at 0 for several months.
I'm new to pool ownership. My pool was on a single speed 3450rpm motor and got up to just under 30psi. Instead of cleaning the filter I went on a business trip and 4 days later the motor bearings were shot. Lesson learned the hard way!!! I replaced the motor with variable speed, I did the work myself for the same cost quoted by a repairman to replacing the bearings. Also, the cost to run over a single year (3100rpm 4hours, 2600rpm 4hours, 1600rpm 8hours vs 3450 9hours) will more than pay for itself so I feel really good about the change. Also 3100rpm produces much less back pressure than 3450rpm. I'll definitely be cleaning the filter earlier, once it breaks 20psi running @3100rpm.
I usually service my filter when the psi is about 5 to 10 psi more than what it should be. Also, a good measure for me is simply checking the water flow at the return.
I would venture to say that the most accurate Clean Operational Pressure value would be that that which is indicated after installing a brand new filter.
Clean start-up can range from 5-25 psi. As stated, it can vary by the HP/rpms of pump, and the hydraulics downstream from the filter. Ideally, I'd like to see a flow meter and a psi gauge after the filter as original equipment when the pool is built but can be added later. What that psi gauge will tell you is the differential pressure inside the filter vs the psi downstream from it. That gauge on clean start up should be near or a little lower than the filter psi gauge. Over time you will see the filter psi rise, as the other one reads lower psi.
With regard to clean operating pressure; I have a Hayward Tristar 950 Variable Speed pump. I run my pump 24hrs (10 hrs econ 1200 rpm at night, 10 hrs low 1650 rpm daytime, 4 hrs mid high 3000rpm in the evening after use) Max speed is 3400rpm. What rpm would you recomend taking the clean operating pressure at? 3000 rpm? The filter is a Hayward cartridge filter and the pool size is 20x44. Thank you
Very helpful. Ive been looking for that answer for a long time. I run at about 22-23 psi. Only have one return. If I take the return jet out, it drops a good bit but can't direct the return water where I want.
Try putting in a return jet with a bigger hole. It will lower the pressure and still allow you to aim the water where you want it. I changed my to the largest outlet eye I had, then filed it even bigger, now my pressure is the same with or without it, and I can still aim the water flow in the direction I want.
@@millslogan3750 I was just outside checking my pressure, running between 14-15psi. I had a 3/4" hole and I used a rounded file and opened it as much as I could and the pressure went down about 2-3psi. Like Steve said, less pressure on the whole system is better.
Hi Steve, thanks for the posted info, i usually clean my filter cartridges every 2 or 3 months, my Pentair 320 model filter tank is six years old as well as the piping, however the pressure, has been over 30PSI hole the time. what you think i should look at? Thaks in advance
When I notice the return pressure not as strong as usual, I check the gauge....usually about 17 psi...I backflush and rinse and it goes back down to about 12 psi and the return is back to normal.
Agreed. But, if a variable speed pump is used, the pump speed must also be noted/recorded. The faster the pump speed = more water flow and therefor a higher initial pressure for clean filters. I need to add a flowmeter. Would like your thoughts on different size openings in the return eyeballs.
With a VS pump you record the clean operational pressure at maximum speed. Also the valve orientations matter as well and the system should be run on full with everything "on" and wide open. Return eyelets range from 3/8" to 1" in size with 1/2" being the most commonly used. If you need more water flow from the return, or more ability to move debris more accurately, reducing the nozzle size with increase the velocity of the water as it leaves the jet. But it will increase your resistance to flow. If you make the eyelets larger, 3/4" or 1" the pool will operate more efficiently in terms of plumbing and resistance to flow, but then you may fail y to have enough water movement to properly circulate / move floating debris. Every pool is unique, so trial and error is not a bad approach t take with a question like this.
@@Swimmingpoolsteveif you open up the returns you get more water flow so it moves more water across the surface towards the skimmers or infinite edge so you get better clearance of the surface. The only problem is you have to empty the skimmers more often 😊
30 psi max is good to know... I'm at 23 to 25psi and have ordered a replacement filter and o-ring for my Hayward C1200 cartridge filter. The jets in the pool don't seem that strong and the water-fall feature initially starts off looking like normal flow then piddles down to a trickle.
@@MrsFhazey, after replacing my filter (it was loaded with all sorts of shtuff and probably never changed by the previous owner) the housing pressure went down to 6 psi and the flows out of the jets and the waterfall feature were never stronger. I also rebuilt my pump with all new seals and o-rings. UA-cam videos are a huge help in saving money vs paying the professional pump techs.
Bought a two speed pump... Thinking a higher stage of operation may improve Vac and backwash....UUUUMMM, No... the pressure shot all the way into critical Red Zone... now I'm thinking I need to bypass partially around my sand filter...only running it at low speed now...
Ok I had gotten behind on add chemicals to my pool and it turned green. I wasn’t running the pump either. I scrubbed the walls and added algicide and turned the pump on. The psi is normally around 10. After about an hour it went up to 20 psi. I backwashed and rinsed and started the pump back up. 10 psi. After an hour back to 20 psi. Did it about 5 times and let it ran over night. The next day. I sucked the rest of the algae out with the hose because I could see the bottom. But now when I backwash and rinse. It’s still doing the same thing 10 for about an hour. And back up to 20. Never done this before. What do you think Doc ?
My pool filter wont come on and the fuse has tripped and i cant flip it on My skimmer hasnt been working and i had rotor rooter clean the line.. but the skimmer only works if i have the valves on halfway the main line and the skimmer line
Really appreciate this! My question: Is it likely that clean operating pressure will increase over time or with various equipment changes? I've had an in-ground 22K gal pool for nearly 20 years and my recollection is that the clean operating pressure in Year #1 was around 5 psi but now it's more like 10-11 psi.
Every piece of equipment you add or swap out is going to have a different effect. I'm not a pro, but what I would do is: the next time you swap out your filter media (new sand, new cartridges, recharge your DE grid, whatever it is you have), I would take the pressure with the pump running at max RPM at that time as your new baseline.
Why is my PSI dropping when I plug in an automatic cleaner to the pool? PSI drops to 7. Without the cleaner it’s at 15. I just changed the filter to a new one, but it’s still the same way.
So I have an above ground pool with a cartridge filter which I ran 2" PVC on the suction and return. My clean OP on high is 10PSI at 60 gpm and at low its 1 psi at 30gpm. I keep my pump on low and run it at least 21hrs to turn the water at least 4 times. Is the low PSI to low?
Quick question.... i have a walmart special 22 ft above ground pool. This year i upgraded to a huge cartridge filter. I have vacuumed all kinds of junk off the bottom. My pressure has not really changed at all. It just sits at 10 psi. Should i clean the filter even tho it is not "clogged" at all. Is there just a bunch of stuff in there decaying that would be better off cleaned out?
Howdy, I have a cartridge filter in my in-ground pool. Last year I switched from a 100SF model to a 200SF model in hope that I would possibly have to rinse it out less. Previously, my COP was I think 15, now I think its more like 25. All plumbing is the same size. Any idea why that might be? Also, can I determine my COP by removing the cartidge and running the pump and then assume the cartridge adds whatever to that when installed?
I purchased a home with an existing pool. There is no suction so I cleaned my filter. The PSI was 30. After I cleaned it the PSI is now 0. There is still no suction. I also purchased new filters for the system. I have a pentair 4000 system. Can you help?
What's your suggestion why my DE filter climbs to 20 and I can clearly see flow reduced dramatically out of returns, even after I back washed it and now it's back washing completely clear water after bumping. No more DE is coming out, yet my PSI goes to 20-22 after 3 hours or so. I cleared the perflex fingers last winter after closing, could they be clogged some other way?
@@MrsFhazey I am still trying to figure out, so far couldn't find the solution. Someone said there might be air in the lines. If you find the reason, please also share. Good luck.
Yeah most of them are about as solid as an animal cracker. I spent a few extra dollars on one on Amazon, it's on the way, so we'll see if it's any better
0.5 PSI on filtration here. 26.5 gallons per minute at 30 watts. 4 turnovers per day. High pressure is friction and a waste of energy and electricity. High pressure ruins pool filtration and therefore water quality, slower filtration is better filtration. You only need high power for backwashing the filter.
10 is the example starting pressure. You can substitute your own clean operational pressure for this number. When PSI rises between.5 to 7 psi that means it is time to clean. So in this example we start.at 10 psi clean. When we reach 15 to 17 psi on gauge it means it is time to clean the filter.
What if pressure reads 0 psi on a new pool setup.If I flip the pump speed to second speed it runs at 5 psi.I have good water pressure coming out the hose in the pool on both low and high.Its a tidewave motor with a Sandman Ne 5610 18 inches sand filter setup,It is an above ground pool.
I got a possible topic for you. I replaced an old filter at a customers house, and the pressure went from 25 to 16 psi, and the water flow around the pool is amazingly better. I'm assuming this means that the pump is able to move more water for less energy? If so, how much will he save in energy cost, and what math formula could we use to figure it out?
Any time I installed all new equipment I would mark the face of the gauge for a static benchmark. Same with new grids. If you service 60 pools in a week how will you remember what your staring pressures were? BTW I had butt can on my tour bike because I don't litter.
Thanks for the clear explanation. Greetings from the Netherlands.
Thanks for the information. 👍. Keep up the good work.
I started up my pool today and the pressure was about 3 psi. An hour later, it was about 13. Yesterday, it was 10. Not sure why the variation, but until recently my gauge read: 0. I put a garden hose with a blow bag in the pipe on the pump side and cleared the skimmer line (after two pool companies had failed to accomplish that with their compressed air and various techniques), so now I finally have pressure. I digress, but it's really nice to see some pressure, any pressure, after running at 0 for several months.
I'm new to pool ownership. My pool was on a single speed 3450rpm motor and got up to just under 30psi. Instead of cleaning the filter I went on a business trip and 4 days later the motor bearings were shot. Lesson learned the hard way!!!
I replaced the motor with variable speed, I did the work myself for the same cost quoted by a repairman to replacing the bearings. Also, the cost to run over a single year (3100rpm 4hours, 2600rpm 4hours, 1600rpm 8hours vs 3450 9hours) will more than pay for itself so I feel really good about the change. Also 3100rpm produces much less back pressure than 3450rpm.
I'll definitely be cleaning the filter earlier, once it breaks 20psi running @3100rpm.
I usually service my filter when the psi is about 5 to 10 psi more than what it should be. Also, a good measure for me is simply checking the water flow at the return.
I would venture to say that the most accurate Clean Operational Pressure value would be that that which is indicated after installing a brand new filter.
Clean start-up can range from 5-25 psi. As stated, it can vary by the HP/rpms of pump, and the hydraulics downstream from the filter.
Ideally, I'd like to see a flow meter and a psi gauge after the filter as original equipment when the pool is built but can be added later.
What that psi gauge will tell you is the differential pressure inside the filter vs the psi downstream from it. That gauge on clean start up should be near or a little lower than the filter psi gauge. Over time you will see the filter psi rise, as the other one reads lower psi.
Absolutely perfect explanation sir .......
Excellent info, thanks.
Great information, thanks!!
That was a gold nugget of info. Thanks! 👍’d & 🔔’d.
With regard to clean operating pressure; I have a Hayward Tristar 950 Variable Speed pump. I run my pump 24hrs (10 hrs econ 1200 rpm at night, 10 hrs low 1650 rpm daytime, 4 hrs mid high 3000rpm in the evening after use) Max speed is 3400rpm. What rpm would you recomend taking the clean operating pressure at? 3000 rpm? The filter is a Hayward cartridge filter and the pool size is 20x44. Thank you
Thank you so much awesome clear and concise‼️👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Very helpful. Ive been looking for that answer for a long time. I run at about 22-23 psi. Only have one return. If I take the return jet out, it drops a good bit but can't direct the return water where I want.
Try putting in a return jet with a bigger hole. It will lower the pressure and still allow you to aim the water where you want it. I changed my to the largest outlet eye I had, then filed it even bigger, now my pressure is the same with or without it, and I can still aim the water flow in the direction I want.
@@storyman34 Thank you. The return jet is a 3/4" hole and is the largest one avail. Previously it had a 1/2" or maybe even smaller hole before!
@@millslogan3750 I was just outside checking my pressure, running between 14-15psi. I had a 3/4" hole and I used a rounded file and opened it as much as I could and the pressure went down about 2-3psi. Like Steve said, less pressure on the whole system is better.
@@storyman34 Awesome. Thats what Ill do!!! Thanks!
Look up a Zodiak Diverter. May be less restrictive. Don't give up your pool's rotation for filter pressure.
Hi Steve, thanks for the posted info, i usually clean my filter cartridges every 2 or 3 months, my Pentair 320 model filter tank is six years old as well as the piping, however the pressure, has been over 30PSI hole the time. what you think i should look at? Thaks in advance
When I notice the return pressure not as strong as usual, I check the gauge....usually about 17 psi...I backflush and rinse and it goes back down to about 12 psi and the return is back to normal.
Agreed. But, if a variable speed pump is used, the pump speed must also be noted/recorded. The faster the pump speed = more water flow and therefor a higher initial pressure for clean filters. I need to add a flowmeter. Would like your thoughts on different size openings in the return eyeballs.
With a VS pump you record the clean operational pressure at maximum speed. Also the valve orientations matter as well and the system should be run on full with everything "on" and wide open. Return eyelets range from 3/8" to 1" in size with 1/2" being the most commonly used. If you need more water flow from the return, or more ability to move debris more accurately, reducing the nozzle size with increase the velocity of the water as it leaves the jet. But it will increase your resistance to flow. If you make the eyelets larger, 3/4" or 1" the pool will operate more efficiently in terms of plumbing and resistance to flow, but then you may fail y to have enough water movement to properly circulate / move floating debris. Every pool is unique, so trial and error is not a bad approach t take with a question like this.
This is another reason why I keep wanting to add an inline flow meter as well.
@@Swimmingpoolsteveif you open up the returns you get more water flow so it moves more water across the surface towards the skimmers or infinite edge so you get better clearance of the surface. The only problem is you have to empty the skimmers more often 😊
Awesome info
30 psi max is good to know... I'm at 23 to 25psi and have ordered a replacement filter and o-ring for my Hayward C1200 cartridge filter. The jets in the pool don't seem that strong and the water-fall feature initially starts off looking like normal flow then piddles down to a trickle.
This is exactly how mine is working. Once the pressure starts to rise my water feature starts to trickle.
@@MrsFhazey, after replacing my filter (it was loaded with all sorts of shtuff and probably never changed by the previous owner) the housing pressure went down to 6 psi and the flows out of the jets and the waterfall feature were never stronger. I also rebuilt my pump with all new seals and o-rings. UA-cam videos are a huge help in saving money vs paying the professional pump techs.
Bought a two speed pump... Thinking a higher stage of operation may improve Vac and backwash....UUUUMMM, No... the pressure shot all the way into critical Red Zone... now I'm thinking I need to bypass partially around my sand filter...only running it at low speed now...
Ok I had gotten behind on add chemicals to my pool and it turned green. I wasn’t running the pump either. I scrubbed the walls and added algicide and turned the pump on. The psi is normally around 10. After about an hour it went up to 20 psi. I backwashed and rinsed and started the pump back up. 10 psi. After an hour back to 20 psi. Did it about 5 times and let it ran over night. The next day. I sucked the rest of the algae out with the hose because I could see the bottom. But now when I backwash and rinse. It’s still doing the same thing 10 for about an hour. And back up to 20. Never done this before. What do you think Doc ?
Hey!..very clear and concise info. Thanks. Subscribed.C
Thank you!
will a bad pressure gauge give you a no flow light on aqua rite board
I have a hayward c3030 cartridge filter. With brand new cartridges install and it starting point is 19 psi. Is that an issue?
Thank you.
My pool filter wont come on and the fuse has tripped and i cant flip it on
My skimmer hasnt been working and i had rotor rooter clean the line.. but the skimmer only works if i have the valves on halfway the main line and the skimmer line
How do i know if my pump needs replaced or i need a electrician
Really appreciate this! My question: Is it likely that clean operating pressure will increase over time or with various equipment changes? I've had an in-ground 22K gal pool for nearly 20 years and my recollection is that the clean operating pressure in Year #1 was around 5 psi but now it's more like 10-11 psi.
Every piece of equipment you add or swap out is going to have a different effect. I'm not a pro, but what I would do is: the next time you swap out your filter media (new sand, new cartridges, recharge your DE grid, whatever it is you have), I would take the pressure with the pump running at max RPM at that time as your new baseline.
@@disjustice Thank you! I've been thinking it may be about time to replace the sand so I will definitely take your advice.
Why is my PSI dropping when I plug in an automatic cleaner to the pool? PSI drops to 7. Without the cleaner it’s at 15. I just changed the filter to a new one, but it’s still the same way.
At what RPM do we take the clean operational pressure?
So I have an above ground pool with a cartridge filter which I ran 2" PVC on the suction and return. My clean OP on high is 10PSI at 60 gpm and at low its 1 psi at 30gpm. I keep my pump on low and run it at least 21hrs to turn the water at least 4 times. Is the low PSI to low?
Quick question.... i have a walmart special 22 ft above ground pool. This year i upgraded to a huge cartridge filter. I have vacuumed all kinds of junk off the bottom. My pressure has not really changed at all. It just sits at 10 psi. Should i clean the filter even tho it is not "clogged" at all. Is there just a bunch of stuff in there decaying that would be better off cleaned out?
Howdy, I have a cartridge filter in my in-ground pool. Last year I switched from a 100SF model to a 200SF model in hope that I would possibly have to rinse it out less. Previously, my COP was I think 15, now I think its more like 25. All plumbing is the same size. Any idea why that might be? Also, can I determine my COP by removing the cartidge and running the pump and then assume the cartridge adds whatever to that when installed?
Yes you can. Be sure you are rinsing with a degreaser, not just water or you are not actually cleaning the filters properly
@@Swimmingpoolsteve Oh, OK. Can you recommend a degreaser? Thank you!
Or, would just using muriatic acid be the de-greaser?
My psi was 40 so I cleaned the filter and the grids now it’s reading 30. How do I get the psi lower then 30
I purchased a home with an existing pool. There is no suction so I cleaned my filter. The PSI was 30. After I cleaned it the PSI is now 0.
There is still no suction. I also purchased new filters for the system.
I have a pentair 4000 system.
Can you help?
If the pump is not primed then you will not register a pressure on the filter. Ypu have to sort out the priming issues first
What's your suggestion why my DE filter climbs to 20 and I can clearly see flow reduced dramatically out of returns, even after I back washed it and now it's back washing completely clear water after bumping. No more DE is coming out, yet my PSI goes to 20-22 after 3 hours or so. I cleared the perflex fingers last winter after closing, could they be clogged some other way?
Please reply...I'm having the same issue
@@MrsFhazey I am still trying to figure out, so far couldn't find the solution. Someone said there might be air in the lines. If you find the reason, please also share. Good luck.
I run at 20 with a 36 sq ft DE and I notice when I hit as little as 22 psi I need to backflush as my vacuum just doesn't suck like it should.
Yup depending on the pump you have just a couple pounds can kill your suction.
I believe my gauge is broke. And I noticed that there is a little water in the gauge. The system is only a year old.
Thank you , very useful plain and simple advice. 👍👍👍
I wish they made a pressure gauge that did not suck
Yeah most of them are about as solid as an animal cracker. I spent a few extra dollars on one on Amazon, it's on the way, so we'll see if it's any better
try going to an air tool or hydraulic hose shop. they usually carry higher quality gauges.
0.5 PSI on filtration here. 26.5 gallons per minute at 30 watts. 4 turnovers per day. High pressure is friction and a waste of energy and electricity. High pressure ruins pool filtration and therefore water quality, slower filtration is better filtration. You only need high power for backwashing the filter.
Well I turn my pump on and the water came out dark in color
Actually this video is NOT clear: is "15 over" in the example 15 total running PSI (10+5) or (10+15) 25 total PSI? It is not clear.
10 is the example starting pressure. You can substitute your own clean operational pressure for this number. When PSI rises between.5 to 7 psi that means it is time to clean. So in this example we start.at 10 psi clean. When we reach 15 to 17 psi on gauge it means it is time to clean the filter.
What if pressure reads 0 psi on a new pool setup.If I flip the pump speed to second speed it runs at 5 psi.I have good water pressure coming out the hose in the pool on both low and high.Its a tidewave motor with a Sandman Ne 5610 18 inches sand filter setup,It is an above ground pool.
I got a possible topic for you.
I replaced an old filter at a customers house, and the pressure went from 25 to 16 psi, and the water flow around the pool is amazingly better. I'm assuming this means that the pump is able to move more water for less energy? If so, how much will he save in energy cost, and what math formula could we use to figure it out?
Very good comment I have been building pool's for since the mid seventies a pool pressure gauge is as good as having a ashtray on a motorcycle 😅
Well shouldn't you at least know if it's always at 15 and suddenly it went up to 25... Shouldn't it give you a sign?
Any time I installed all new equipment I would mark the face of the gauge for a static benchmark. Same with new grids. If you service 60 pools in a week how will you remember what your staring pressures were? BTW I had butt can on my tour bike because I don't litter.
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