I have a similar one and have been running it for a year... From eco-worthy. I have 4x 100ah 24v batteries connected on it. It has the same issue regarding wire size. I run my network, furnace, deep freeze, fridge and CPAP on it and I get a full 24+ hours of backup at -30c outside (the furnace is the heaviest draw). I have it connected to a standard 30amp rv style plug for grid power so if necessary I can easily connect to my propane generator and recharge
Since the price is so reasonable I've considered just buying a second one and keeping it in a box for redundancy. That being said, we don't really have power issues so its primary purpose is for the ups capability... It's been flawless for the couple times we've have blips and for the test runs
Thanks... I researched like crazy and wired it all myself I don't have solar as it's not cost effective yet (northern bc Canada so limited sunlight in the winters) BUT eventually I will.
Your logic regarding an all-one-unit has always been compelling. But the first time you have an essential component inside the unit fail, you will wish there was an easy way to repair or replace it. In addition, separate components allow you to improve upon the individual component performance,if necessary.
This is a true statement and as a prepper i consider single points of failure. We call it your 'risk appetite'. What's more important to you, cost / ease of build. Vs ease of repair. If this unit was going to be used on something life critical like an O2 machine, then I would consider that. Also, considering the total cost of this unit being so low, you could buy a second one and keep it as a spare. If the first fails you drop this in. If you add up what you are getting for $450 on this, it's around $700 worth of parts
The components and pin out looks exactly like the powmr 3k LF. pow-relab 3ku. Different panel on front but LCD UI is same. This one has WiFi and an app as an additional dongle. If you have a chance you should compare these.
I have looked at the PowMr units in the past. I bought a generic all in one that is similar. I returned it because if you look, the battery power terminals are very close together. I tried to get a 2 awg in there and the terminals shorted. I could drop to a 4 awg but that limits the amount of current you can use.
Nice set up. It is good to show differing systems a person can manually install as a back up in case of a major power outage. I would like to see a 36 volt system build rather than a 48 volt build since there are many channels that already do 48 volt builds. Xija has a really good 36 volt inverter I have seen on a different channel which he highly recommended.
@@texasprepperprojects Not really an odd ball considering that it would take three 100 ah or three 200 ah 12 volt batteries wired in series like you did with the 24 volt set up. Three more wired in parallel would double the watt hours. I would have done that myself if I had the room for three more mini Lifepo4 batteries. I have the length for three but not the withe. Like I wrote previously, there are 36 volt inverters which have the same 110/120 volt plug ins to run devices. This goes beyond golf carts. 36 volts were common in the US in industry and the military until the Chinese introduced 48 volt systems which are applicable in very large solar set ups
Nice set up. Next time just lay the dolly on it's back it will make it easier to mount the unit just laying it down on the dolly. Just lift it vertical before installing the batteries
Very good video. I wan to build one like the EG4 but the 150v min voltage got me thinking after your video, it is very good option, but low voltage will take very long time to charge the batteries. My problem is also that my wife do not like the wiring connection , she wan to see something like the anker F3800, but as you know that one is much more expensive and lower in capacity than the one you bult. I also noticed that the batteries are same or comparative expensive than he EG4 so no savings can be made on batteries if you want a 5kwh system. Thanks again for your video.!
If you use 2 wattcycle 300ah that will get you over 7kw with this unit for a 3rd third the price! I understand about the wiring my wifr has the same concerns. But you can neaten that all up and all she has to do is flip the one switch on the left
Great video build. I have to agree that going the EG4 route was a big mistake on my part. I don't have enough solar panels to have enough voltage to start charging. So I had to pivot and bought the Victron mppt solar charger the 150/35 model that can charge 12V through 48V. Also the EG4 inverter was not as efficient as I had hoped. I ran my fridge/freezer a 26/cu.ft 115V at 7.2 amps with my build and it only lasted 37 hours, with the fridge consuming 2.4KW and the inverter consuming the rest of my power of my eg4LL battery, so I had to pivot and ordered the victron 48V 1200W inverter to see how long it runs my fridge. On your suggestion from one of your videos, I took advantage of of buying 2 of the Watt Cycle 12V 100AH mini batteries with Bluetooth , only a 10 dollar difference from no blue tooth. Great savings with the Black Friday sales going on now. I want to use them to just run my 12V fridges without an inverter using a female 12V cigarette plug. Can't wait to receive them. By the way do you happen to know how efficient the LiTime inverter is? I'm thinking doing more 12V builds as it is a lot simpler to charge with solar panels. Thank you for taking time to share you knowledge with us.
@@texasprepperprojects what size wires are needed to combine 2 watt cycle 12v 300ah mini batteries together to make a 24v battery with this 3000w inverter ?
This is phenomenal !!! I’m wondering if putting in Anderson connectors between the inverter and battery might be an idea to be able to swap a fresh battery in when charging the depleted battery Thinking extended grid down conditions.
You could, but how are you charging the 'spare' batteries? I'd rather just put BIGGER batteries on the primary unit, like the watt cycle 300amp i linked. Two of those together would get you over 7kw for under $999
I was looking at the 3kw EG4 as well, it’s an established reliable unit. But I also noticed the high solar input voltage which makes it not suitable for mobile applications. This LITime unit with just 30v starting voltage is interesting. If 24 or 48v is better would be up to the beholder, but smaller cable sizes do matter, so 24v over 12v is already an improvement. Couple questions. Does it have a DC out to connect dc loads? How loud is it? Can the inverter be turned off and other features still work? How much idle consumption does it have with inverter on/off ? I think I would still want to use a shunt at the battery.
@texasprepperprojects thanks for the reply. I will have (2) 200ah li time and (2) 100 ah li time. I would like to run my ac off of it. Thoughts? Also, fridge, and lights. Nothing to crazy other than the dometic ac.
This seems like a great option for a beginner, like me. I'm going to buy one because you just can't beat the price. My only concern was solar is limited to 150v. Also, I'm wondering why the solar input's recommended range tops off at 105v.
Reply from the vendor. The voltage of the input capacitor is 150V, which is allowed within the maximum value. The recommended 105 voltage value is generally close to the open circuit voltage of most solar panels.
I really like this unit and would like to get one. Unfortunately, Li Time has been unwilling to provide me with any information unless I buy it first (according to Wendy Yuan at the LiTime Online Sales & Consulting (OSC) Department). There is no spec sheet online. There is no downloadable owner's manual (PDF). I have two questions: 1. This unit being 48 lbs. suggests that it might be a low frequency unit (with a large toroidal transformer in it). Is it? 2. The website states, "The charging current can also be manually adjusted for added flexibility". 50 amps x 29.2 volts x 0.85 (efficiency guess) = 1718 Watts. I want to know if I can "turn the AC charge rate down" to accommodate my tiny generator. I only have an 850 Watt generator. I'm not going to buy it just to see answers to these two questions. That's ridiculous.
1. I don't know. 2. it supposed to be able to, but this is one of the menu settings that I couldn't get into as I mentioned at the very end of the video. I don't know if I got an early release or if I'm doing something wrong, but the manual says you should be able to
It is a little strange. It seems to be 100 is recommended but 150 is possible. Just like most batteries have a 100 amp charger current limit but 50 is recommended
They are not advertising this, but this is a Low Frequency inverter rather than a High Frequency one. This is why it weighs 40lbs and has an 18W standby current. But yeah, buying something in the country where it's made will often be cheaper.
i trust my diy system .. easy service ability. however i haven't had any issues 4 years now still going strong
That's great to hear, I'm glad it's working for you!
I have a similar one and have been running it for a year... From eco-worthy.
I have 4x 100ah 24v batteries connected on it. It has the same issue regarding wire size.
I run my network, furnace, deep freeze, fridge and CPAP on it and I get a full 24+ hours of backup at -30c outside (the furnace is the heaviest draw).
I have it connected to a standard 30amp rv style plug for grid power so if necessary I can easily connect to my propane generator and recharge
Since the price is so reasonable I've considered just buying a second one and keeping it in a box for redundancy.
That being said, we don't really have power issues so its primary purpose is for the ups capability... It's been flawless for the couple times we've have blips and for the test runs
That is impressive!
Thanks... I researched like crazy and wired it all myself
I don't have solar as it's not cost effective yet (northern bc Canada so limited sunlight in the winters) BUT eventually I will.
You could put a 100 or 200w panel on it to offset some minor losses but yeah I'm not expecting much solar in Canada
@texasprepperprojects true... I do have 300 watts on my trailer which, in an emergency, I could reroute to my home
Your logic regarding an all-one-unit has always been compelling. But the first time you have an essential component inside the unit fail, you will wish there was an easy way to repair or replace it. In addition, separate components allow you to improve upon the individual component performance,if necessary.
This is a true statement and as a prepper i consider single points of failure. We call it your 'risk appetite'. What's more important to you, cost / ease of build. Vs ease of repair. If this unit was going to be used on something life critical like an O2 machine, then I would consider that. Also, considering the total cost of this unit being so low, you could buy a second one and keep it as a spare. If the first fails you drop this in. If you add up what you are getting for $450 on this, it's around $700 worth of parts
Just for this review. Subscribed. Great job. Thank you.
Thanks!
The components and pin out looks exactly like the powmr 3k LF. pow-relab 3ku. Different panel on front but LCD UI is same. This one has WiFi and an app as an additional dongle. If you have a chance you should compare these.
Link to it for me?
I have looked at the PowMr units in the past. I bought a generic all in one that is similar. I returned it because if you look, the battery power terminals are very close together. I tried to get a 2 awg in there and the terminals shorted. I could drop to a 4 awg but that limits the amount of current you can use.
Great setup. Would be nice to see the screen.
fair point. there's not a lot to it though
Nice set up. It is good to show differing systems a person can manually install as a back up in case of a major power outage. I would like to see a 36 volt system build rather than a 48 volt build since there are many channels that already do 48 volt builds. Xija has a really good 36 volt inverter I have seen on a different channel which he highly recommended.
36 volts is such an oddball though since it's not an even multiple. i think that the only systems that are 36v are golf carts.
@@texasprepperprojects Not really an odd ball considering that it would take three 100 ah or three 200 ah 12 volt batteries wired in series like you did with the 24 volt set up. Three more wired in parallel would double the watt hours. I would have done that myself if I had the room for three more mini Lifepo4 batteries. I have the length for three but not the withe. Like I wrote previously, there are 36 volt inverters which have the same 110/120 volt plug ins to run devices. This goes beyond golf carts. 36 volts were common in the US in industry and the military until the Chinese introduced 48 volt systems which are applicable in very large solar set ups
Thanks!
Nice set up. Next time just lay the dolly on it's back it will make it easier to mount the unit just laying it down on the dolly. Just lift it vertical before installing the batteries
This is how I did it
Very good video. I wan to build one like the EG4 but the 150v min voltage got me thinking after your video, it is very good option, but low voltage will take very long time to charge the batteries. My problem is also that my wife do not like the wiring connection , she wan to see something like the anker F3800, but as you know that one is much more expensive and lower in capacity than the one you bult.
I also noticed that the batteries are same or comparative expensive than he EG4 so no savings can be made on batteries if you want a 5kwh system. Thanks again for your video.!
If you use 2 wattcycle 300ah that will get you over 7kw with this unit for a 3rd third the price! I understand about the wiring my wifr has the same concerns. But you can neaten that all up and all she has to do is flip the one switch on the left
@@texasprepperprojects ok thanks, i checked they only have 300ah for the 12V , i did not see any 24V. tks
That is correct which is why I said to buy two 12v batteries which you can link and make 24v like I did
@@texasprepperprojects got it , thanks!!
Great video build. I have to agree that going the EG4 route was a big mistake on my part. I don't have enough solar panels to have enough voltage to start charging. So I had to pivot and bought the Victron mppt solar charger the 150/35 model that can charge 12V through 48V. Also the EG4 inverter was not as efficient as I had hoped. I ran my fridge/freezer a 26/cu.ft 115V at 7.2 amps with my build and it only lasted 37 hours, with the fridge consuming 2.4KW and the inverter consuming the rest of my power of my eg4LL battery, so I had to pivot and ordered the victron 48V 1200W inverter to see how long it runs my fridge. On your suggestion from one of your videos, I took advantage of of buying 2 of the Watt Cycle 12V 100AH mini batteries with Bluetooth , only a 10 dollar difference from no blue tooth. Great savings with the Black Friday sales going on now. I want to use them to just run my 12V fridges without an inverter using a female 12V cigarette plug. Can't wait to receive them. By the way do you happen to know how efficient the LiTime inverter is? I'm thinking doing more 12V builds as it is a lot simpler to charge with solar panels. Thank you for taking time to share you knowledge with us.
I am honestly not sure on the efficiency. The watt cycle 300ah for under $500 is a smoking deal
@@texasprepperprojects what size wires are needed to combine 2 watt cycle 12v 300ah mini batteries together to make a 24v battery with this 3000w inverter ?
@@Barc7580 My MINIMUM is 4 awg but I'd prefer a 2 awg just to be safe amzn.to/4915u5L
@@texasprepperprojects thank you for putting out these videos.
@@Barc7580 Thanks for the note!
This is phenomenal !!!
I’m wondering if putting in Anderson connectors between the inverter and battery might be an idea to be able to swap a fresh battery in when charging the depleted battery
Thinking extended grid down conditions.
You could, but how are you charging the 'spare' batteries? I'd rather just put BIGGER batteries on the primary unit, like the watt cycle 300amp i linked. Two of those together would get you over 7kw for under $999
You briefly mentioned this was a 110 VAC output. I prefer 120 VAC.
Screen shows 110. Why does that matter for you?
I was looking at the 3kw EG4 as well, it’s an established reliable unit. But I also noticed the high solar input voltage which makes it not suitable for mobile applications.
This LITime unit with just 30v starting voltage is interesting. If 24 or 48v is better would be up to the beholder, but smaller cable sizes do matter, so 24v over 12v is already an improvement.
Couple questions.
Does it have a DC out to connect dc loads?
How loud is it?
Can the inverter be turned off and other features still work?
How much idle consumption does it have with inverter on/off ?
I think I would still want to use a shunt at the battery.
No.
Not very
I don't see that feature
15w
And i agree on the shunt. While the unit does have a current meter the screen is a little too small for my liking
Nice video. Hey do you know what the idle consumption is?
I think the manual said 6 watts in eco and 15 in standard
@@texasprepperprojects Do you happen to know what it is in UPS mode?
@@JeffP00001 presume the same, around 15w
Would you recommend this for a airstream for 4 day weekends?
Not enough information. What are you trying to run? Are you doing solar or just battery?
@texasprepperprojects thanks for the reply. I will have (2) 200ah li time and (2) 100 ah li time. I would like to run my ac off of it. Thoughts? Also, fridge, and lights. Nothing to crazy other than the dometic ac.
How much solar do you have and where do you live?
@@texasprepperprojects i will be trying to get about 800 watts on the top.
@@texasprepperprojects i live in arizona
This seems like a great option for a beginner, like me. I'm going to buy one because you just can't beat the price. My only concern was solar is limited to 150v. Also, I'm wondering why the solar input's recommended range tops off at 105v.
Just ordered 1 using your link.
Thanks!
Reply from the vendor.
The voltage of the input capacitor is 150V, which is allowed within the maximum value.
The recommended 105 voltage value is generally close to the open circuit voltage of most solar panels.
Is it clean energy pure sine wave?
Yes
Did you say 100v is maximum solar string input? 30v min - 100v max?
105v is the max recommended but 150v is the max upper limit based on the components
@texasprepperprojects thank u
Do they have a 250 volt single phase unit for like a well pump
Not that I see on their website
I really like this unit and would like to get one. Unfortunately, Li Time has been unwilling to provide me with any information unless I buy it first (according to Wendy Yuan at the LiTime Online Sales & Consulting (OSC) Department). There is no spec sheet online. There is no downloadable owner's manual (PDF). I have two questions:
1. This unit being 48 lbs. suggests that it might be a low frequency unit (with a large toroidal transformer in it). Is it?
2. The website states, "The charging current can also be manually adjusted for added flexibility". 50 amps x 29.2 volts x 0.85 (efficiency guess) = 1718 Watts. I want to know if I can "turn the AC charge rate down" to accommodate my tiny generator. I only have an 850 Watt generator.
I'm not going to buy it just to see answers to these two questions. That's ridiculous.
1. I don't know.
2. it supposed to be able to, but this is one of the menu settings that I couldn't get into as I mentioned at the very end of the video. I don't know if I got an early release or if I'm doing something wrong, but the manual says you should be able to
I have been waiting for someone to review this. Aggravating they didnt include bluetooth.
Yeah I suggested that to them. But if you have a battery with Bluetooth you don't need it
I'm really pushing watt cycle to put Bluetooth in their 300ah
I have been eyeing that unit on Amazon. But I'm confused about the PV voltage max input. Is it 100vdc or 150vdc?
it looks like 150 and that alone turned me off quickly
It is a little strange. It seems to be 100 is recommended but 150 is possible. Just like most batteries have a 100 amp charger current limit but 50 is recommended
Why? I look at this as a small back up system, not a whole house unit. I can put 3 to 4 residential panels on it from CL
Why so expensive. In China 24v 3kw hybrid inverter only $150
This is the cheapest hybrid unit i've ever seen
Shipping!
This is an inverter, AC charger and MPPT solar charger all together. It's 3 pieces in one
They are not advertising this, but this is a Low Frequency inverter rather than a High Frequency one. This is why it weighs 40lbs and has an 18W standby current. But yeah, buying something in the country where it's made will often be cheaper.
@akarpy oh ok. That makes sense