12:45 Ha, don't mind at all. I appreciate the reference and that falls under fair use anyway :) I see you got an extra set of rack ears too. I still haven't figured out why they're shipping an extra set...
The only issue with 48v is usually the initial upfront cost . Unless id you building 12v or 24v system comparable to 48v size wise . The 48v will be cheaper. The disadvantage of 48V u mentioned only applys if you using high PV mppts like 500V . I've seen people build 48V system with a victron 150V 35A controller with only 2 panels in series
@texasprepperprojects check out Brad Cagle channel, he built a small 48V system using a victron 100/20 charge controller , victron 1200W inverter and a Litime 48V 60Ah battery charging with 4 100w solar panels in series . My point here is u can build a 48V system which doesn't require 100-120 minimum. Yes it works better with 100V and above but it's not a requirement unless if you using those high voltage all in one systems.
Thank you for putting this together, it is very thoughtful. I built something portable and prefer 24v, it also make an easy extended battery for my EcoFlow. Thanks
like others I got a delta 2 one kw power station and the ecoflow charger . the delta 2 functions as a head unit and I can use my 24v battery as additional power source BECAUSE the delta 2 directly accepts 24v input and the charger will charge 12v and up to 32v . I will add some solar later
Good point about 48v systems needing higher voltage. Nice video! Might have to seriously think about 24v because of how series makes all the panels one panel. In my yard, having 4 panels in series will probably become a shade magnet. Lol
It seems to me that the "120V minimum" for charging a 48V battery is a specific limitation to the that specific EG4 charge controller (designed for large solar panel installs). Controllers from other brands for 48V batteries (Rich Solar RS-MPPT60 or Victron MPPT 100/20-48V) mention "battery voltage +2V" or "Battery Voltage +5V" in their manuals. Elsewhare I've read that it's approx. 20-30% above the battery voltage for MPPT chargers to work (e.g. 60V minimum PV input for a 48V battery)
Well that is interesting and makes a LOT more sense. I pick on the EG4 since it's the most popular all in one. Every other solar youtube person slaps a $700 EG4 on a cart with a rack mount battery and calls it good.
Glad you mentioned the EG4. I unfortunately went that route without realizing I did not have enough solar input to start charging with solar. I did find a work around and ordered a victron 100/20 smart solar charge controller that I will use to connect straight to the battery only to trickle charge with my 220 bifacial panels from ecoflow. This unit allows me to select 12V through 48V. Since solar is free I plan to daisy chain my ecoflow 2000 to charge it that way through the inverter if need be. Not efficient but I'm learning. All this is new to me and you explain things well. Eventually I want to do another project similar to yours. Thanks for posting.
I didn't know you need a lot of panels for those EG4 48 volt all in one boxes. That is a shame because I just don't have that much room in my backyard for that many panels. Also, as a beginner I am told that 48 volt is dangerous as it is capable of killing you by stopping your heart, and 12 and 24 volts are safe. Thank you for the info.
Thank you so much for the information, so even with the 48v Inverter I will have to make sure that the input voltage from the solar panels do not fry it.
I recently installed 2 12v 200ah lifepo4 in series. Even with a victron battery balancer they still get out of balance.maybe put it back in parallel, less headaches, but then back to 12v.maybe make a video about a victron balancer?
I agree. 48v systems require too much panel voltage for a small backup system. 12 or 24v systems have less arcing problems and safer to work with from my understanding. My fridge and furnace blower surge to at least 1500 watts. So largest inverter I need is 2,000 watts which is just fine for a 12v system in my research. I might go with a 24v system just for the fridge and furnace if my delta 2 ever poops out. I'm working on a 12v dolly system as well and will have lots of usb devices like aa battery chargers and such. I'm also going to use a relay with a piezo buzzer to go off when the load terminals on the scc shut off as a battery monitor.
That’s crazy the difference in the amount of solar panels you would need to run the 48 volt as opposed to the 12 and 24 volt.. does the 24 volt require more panels then the 12? I was hoping to just have a little cart that I could pull into the woods with me or my backyard for yard wordk etc. to run like a sawall or skillsaw or angle grinder and tools like that, or even maybe for the potential to run a small space heater in a garage for an hour or two once in a while. But at the same time I need it to be fairly portable and the least amount of hassle in terms of setting up the panels. Simply put I am a very “plug and play” type of folk and I like simple and efficient. But I have watched a bunch of prowes videos and he said that it would be a waste of money to buy the little jackery or Bluetti power bank and panels considering how much cheaper and more power you can get with these DIY carts. Thanks for replying sir you make your videos very easy to understand
don't bother with the space heater. Use a Mr Buddy Propane heater instead. I'd personally buy a 24v, 100 or 200 amp hour battery and 24v inverter. You can pull more power, more easily. Just make sure you 're getting at least 30v of solar into it, which is easy if you buy a used residential panel off of CL.
Since my van camper is 120v (a/c. & microwave) and 12v for everything else I need to supply 12v. This means I’ll have to use step down transformers! How much wattage loss would I have by adding the step downs, for each step down transformer. If it is very much larger 100% pure copper wires may be a better for my application.
Excellent explanation of the differences in voltages. I have to rethink my setup. It is presently 12V but can easily be made 24V. I would just have to buy a new inverter. The current difference is staggering. It will cut the total amp-hour capacity by half, though, correct? I assume a 24V system will double the amps you can pull off a 100 Ah BMS, which is a huge plus. With my Starlink mobile system, I am running it straight off a 12V LifePo 100 Ah but kicking it up to 24V with a Buck/Boost. Although Starlink says it will run on 12v, it won't. I expected to encounter heat with the buck/boost, but it didn't get warm. With a 24V system, I could run it straight off the 24V batteries. Great presentation.
So if you have two, 12v 100 amp hour batteries in parallel, it becomes 12v at 200 amp hours or 2,580 watt hours. If you put those batteries in series, then it's 24v at 100 amp hours, but it's still 2580 watt hours. You haven't changed the capacity, just the voltage. If your starlink is 24v, then you could power it straight off of that pack. The two main advantages to 24v is 1: lower amperages so smaller wires and 2: You can put more total solar wattage into it. By using a higher voltage, you can get more total solar power into it for the same amount of money. Check out my video on the LiTime solar charge controller. ua-cam.com/video/syrnCSMjFhI/v-deo.html . Yes, it does mean you have to buy a new inverter. I use Giandel who makes a 24v.. amzn.to/40zjOAl
@@texasprepperprojects Thanks for some great info. I always thought hooking in series halved the watt hours too. This is why the internet and UA-cam is so awesome. Now I feel way more comfortable converting mine to 24 Volts.
@@texasprepperprojects I like your design. I made one similar to yours but with a solar panel attached to the Hand truck as well. I can angle and align the panel perfect to the sun.
@@texasprepperprojects I replied with a link but UA-cam appears to have blocked it. BTW, the reason my hand truck build is 12v is I used leftover parts from my main system that I upgraded to 24v.
Most 12v compressor refrigerators can be switched to run on 24v. For system design, I think 12v is fine as long as you are normally under 1500w or so, and don't need to surge over 2000w. Double those numbers for a 24v system (3000w/4000w). If more than that, go 48v. Maybe someday we'll start seeing higher voltage than 48v systems readily available for DIY.
You can still run 12V devices off a 24V system directly using a buck converter. I always use a multi buck on the DC side, so I have 5V and 12V available without coming off the inverter.
I subscribed with a like. It was good to see that you hooked up a 24 volt system. I been thinking on doing that for a good while and you were spot on at explaining about using a smaller gauge wire for the 24 volt system. I am glad you mention that most if not all charge controllers can be bumped up to 24 volts. There are charge controllers (that also includes PWMs) that can charge a 48 volt battery bank and 150 volts from the solar panels. Will Prose has a recent video warning of the dangers of hooking up solar panels above 50 volts when wiring them in series. A person has to know what they are doing when wiring in series otherwise they risk electrocution. That is why I use series and parallel together with two PWMs which can handle 55 volts from the solar panels. Many YT channels would have people believe PWMs are junk. From my observations and using a multi-meter, the voltage and amps start rising after first light and increases during the day to the programmed voltage. In other words, the batteries are being charge beginning at first light. Of course, an MPPT or multiple MPPTs should be used on large systems to maximize the solar input. Furthermore, I have wind and solar on a different system. Wind power is a complicated subject and more expensive than solar but great in using off grid with solar. However, I am not off grid. It's not possible where I live and this would be true for a lot of households.
Nice video but I am not sure how you attached the plywood to the metal hand truck? Did you drill through the metal frame? Also, I notice all you tube solar guys always use unfinished plywood, is there a danger in painting the plywood?
Yes I use a 2.5" 1/4" x 20 bolt and drill all the way through the entire thing. Since inverters and mppt get hot, I don't like to mount them to painted surfaces
Greetings from sunny Jamaica 🇯🇲 I have just come across your video. I have a 24v system which is 4x12v 200ah gel batteries, and I would like to replace those gel batteries with 4x12v 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Question is can I connect the lifepo4 in series parallel as i did with the gel batteries. batteries
You didn't mention what watt size panels to charge in the discussion on 48 volt system. There are 100 watt panels out there and 435 watt panels I've seen out there. Do you still need alot of panels with the 48 volt system with high watt panels? I'm trying to understand and it's all confusing.
In this case wattage is not relevant. That 435 watt panel is PROBABLY 37 Volts at 15 amps or so. I have 12 volt 200 watt panels and I have 37 volt 250 watt panels. You have to read the specs of your panels and your charge controller very carefully. The best of both is high voltage and high current, typically residential panels are the best mix
Hello, what awg did you use to connect both batteries? What awg did you use to connect batteries to inverter? I have 2x 12volts 100A connected in series (24v) with a 4awg 2ft wire. Can i connect batteries to my 2000watt inverter with 2awg wires? Thank you!
@texasprepperprojects bless you! Just bought 2 Lithium batteries, one is 13.30V and the other 13.33V. Do you think they're safe enough for me to connect them in series for a new setup? Thank you!
I’m clueless to all of this Will you be willing to help me with an electrical parts list ? Eco Flo has a 5kw and 10 kw mobile power kit for a van but it’s priced so high. Is it possible to piece a system together that does same but at a better price point ?
Always go with a low frequency inverter, not those cheap Chinese high frequency ones like he is showing you, the battery is fine altho there are cheaper ones just as good. So do you need 200amp bms on your battery? 1500w ÷ 24v = 62.5 amps so you only need 100 amp BMS on the battery. Let's say later you want to run a 3000w inverter, add another battery with a 100amp bms, now you have 2 x 100amp bms batteries, drawing 3000w ÷24 v = 125 amps, being pulled from 2 100amp bms s sharing the 125 amp load, basically 62.5 amps each, if wired correctly, not wired correctly 1 battery will pull more than the other
@@dustydawson8977 Hi. I want a system that is equal or better then the EcoFlo mobile power kit but at a lesser price. I need someone that can put together a shopping list for me as I’m not sure how to achieve items needed Thnks
@tonyhernandez3433 I would like someone to do everything for me for nothing too, but life just isn't that way. Easy as I can make it, it's up to you how cheap. Amazon,low frequency inverter,lithium batteries,40 amp mppt,24v system. There's your recipe
Awesome video and I have everything to build my own except for the batteries -- Do not buy anything from Aolithium. I ordered multiple products from this company that reflected they were in stock. The company waited until the date I was suppose to receive the products (almost 3 weeks after I placed my order) to tell me they are no longer in stock and haven't refunded me my money. Basically they're trying to keep my money and will not ship the products.
Aolithium got in touch with me by email and asked for my order number. I provided my order number to Aolithium and they went ghost on me. So screw Aolithium.
You have inverter losses to deal with also. If you go to 1:52 you'll see that 1,000w is pulling 75 amps from the battery. So, I'm slightly off, but you wouldn't want to run something right up to the 100 amp limit of the BMS 24x7. So, my comment about 1,000w is me errroring on the side of caution and rounding down for safety and inverter limits. Most BMS can spike to 150 or 200 amps, so you CAN run a couple thousand watts, but not for very long
I run a hand-picked non rainforest earthwood mousetrap with Selenium trigger on top of an interstitial co-polymer self-heating .003 microfarad spring and telekinetic monitoring, all powered by a 2026 Lincoln 500 megavolt locomotive engine. Stay gold.
12:45 Ha, don't mind at all. I appreciate the reference and that falls under fair use anyway :) I see you got an extra set of rack ears too. I still haven't figured out why they're shipping an extra set...
Hey there! Thanks!
Thanks for the links to the items you displayed, I didn't realize the prices have come down that much on that stuff. good job explaining the system.
Glad to help
Came to say the same. I'm looking to put together a portable system and starting to get search fatigue 😆
The only issue with 48v is usually the initial upfront cost . Unless id you building 12v or 24v system comparable to 48v size wise . The 48v will be cheaper. The disadvantage of 48V u mentioned only applys if you using high PV mppts like 500V . I've seen people build 48V system with a victron 150V 35A controller with only 2 panels in series
I have never seen a 48v mppt that didn't have a 100v minimum input voltage which is my point
@@texasprepperprojects They exist. 48V works better for large whole home solar system.
@texasprepperprojects check out Brad Cagle channel, he built a small 48V system using a victron 100/20 charge controller , victron 1200W inverter and a Litime 48V 60Ah battery charging with 4 100w solar panels in series . My point here is u can build a 48V system which doesn't require 100-120 minimum. Yes it works better with 100V and above but it's not a requirement unless if you using those high voltage all in one systems.
Still 4 panels
@texasprepperprojects i got 30 455 watt panels... what are you going to do with 2 panels?
Found your channel today and subscribed this is clear and concise thank you. Also in Tx
Thank you!
Thank you for putting this together, it is very thoughtful.
I built something portable and prefer 24v, it also make an easy extended battery for my EcoFlow.
Thanks
Glad it's helpful, 24v is the best!
like others I got a delta 2 one kw power station and the ecoflow charger . the delta 2 functions as a head unit and I can use my 24v battery as additional power source BECAUSE the delta 2 directly accepts 24v input and the charger will charge 12v and up to 32v . I will add some solar later
That’s a great approach!
Good point about 48v systems needing higher voltage. Nice video!
Might have to seriously think about 24v because of how series makes all the panels one panel.
In my yard, having 4 panels in series will probably become a shade magnet. Lol
Thankz!
It seems to me that the "120V minimum" for charging a 48V battery is a specific limitation to the that specific EG4 charge controller (designed for large solar panel installs).
Controllers from other brands for 48V batteries (Rich Solar RS-MPPT60 or Victron MPPT 100/20-48V) mention "battery voltage +2V" or "Battery Voltage +5V" in their manuals. Elsewhare I've read that it's approx. 20-30% above the battery voltage for MPPT chargers to work (e.g. 60V minimum PV input for a 48V battery)
Well that is interesting and makes a LOT more sense. I pick on the EG4 since it's the most popular all in one. Every other solar youtube person slaps a $700 EG4 on a cart with a rack mount battery and calls it good.
Glad you mentioned the EG4. I unfortunately went that route without realizing I did not have enough solar input to start charging with solar. I did find a work around and ordered a victron 100/20 smart solar charge controller that I will use to connect straight to the battery only to trickle charge with my 220 bifacial panels from ecoflow. This unit allows me to select 12V through 48V. Since solar is free I plan to daisy chain my ecoflow 2000 to charge it that way through the inverter if need be. Not efficient but I'm learning. All this is new to me and you explain things well. Eventually I want to do another project similar to yours. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the comment!
I didn't know you need a lot of panels for those EG4 48 volt all in one boxes. That is a shame because I just don't have that much room in my backyard for that many panels. Also, as a beginner I am told that 48 volt is dangerous as it is capable of killing you by stopping your heart, and 12 and 24 volts are safe. Thank you for the info.
I have heard similar about 48v
Thank you so much for the information, so even with the 48v Inverter I will have to make sure that the input voltage from the solar panels do not fry it.
Glad it helped
Thank you for the video, it is helpfull, good job !
Thanks!
I recently installed 2 12v 200ah lifepo4 in series. Even with a victron battery balancer they still get out of balance.maybe put it back in parallel, less headaches, but then back to 12v.maybe make a video about a victron balancer?
Maybe one day
Nice vid 24v for sure, I'm just about to by my dyi set. But making my dyi battery. I'm in Tijuana.
Good luck!
Nice 👍 good 👍 stuff…
Thanks for the visit
I agree. 48v systems require too much panel voltage for a small backup system. 12 or 24v systems have less arcing problems and safer to work with from my understanding. My fridge and furnace blower surge to at least 1500 watts. So largest inverter I need is 2,000 watts which is just fine for a 12v system in my research. I might go with a 24v system just for the fridge and furnace if my delta 2 ever poops out. I'm working on a 12v dolly system as well and will have lots of usb devices like aa battery chargers and such. I'm also going to use a relay with a piezo buzzer to go off when the load terminals on the scc shut off as a battery monitor.
24v just let's you get more power out of the solar
That’s crazy the difference in the amount of solar panels you would need to run the 48 volt as opposed to the 12 and 24 volt.. does the 24 volt require more panels then the 12? I was hoping to just have a little cart that I could pull into the woods with me or my backyard for yard wordk etc. to run like a sawall or skillsaw or angle grinder and tools like that, or even maybe for the potential to run a small space heater in a garage for an hour or two once in a while. But at the same time I need it to be fairly portable and the least amount of hassle in terms of setting up the panels. Simply put I am a very “plug and play” type of folk and I like simple and efficient. But I have watched a bunch of prowes videos and he said that it would be a waste of money to buy the little jackery or Bluetti power bank and panels considering how much cheaper and more power you can get with these DIY carts. Thanks for replying sir you make your videos very easy to understand
don't bother with the space heater. Use a Mr Buddy Propane heater instead. I'd personally buy a 24v, 100 or 200 amp hour battery and 24v inverter. You can pull more power, more easily. Just make sure you 're getting at least 30v of solar into it, which is easy if you buy a used residential panel off of CL.
Since my van camper is 120v (a/c. & microwave) and 12v for everything else I need to supply 12v. This means I’ll have to use step down transformers! How much wattage loss would I have by adding the step downs, for each step down transformer. If it is very much larger 100% pure copper wires may be a better for my application.
You lose a lot. What sort of 12v devices are you trying to run?
Excellent explanation of the differences in voltages. I have to rethink my setup. It is presently 12V but can easily be made 24V. I would just have to buy a new inverter. The current difference is staggering. It will cut the total amp-hour capacity by half, though, correct? I assume a 24V system will double the amps you can pull off a 100 Ah BMS, which is a huge plus. With my Starlink mobile system, I am running it straight off a 12V LifePo 100 Ah but kicking it up to 24V with a Buck/Boost. Although Starlink says it will run on 12v, it won't. I expected to encounter heat with the buck/boost, but it didn't get warm. With a 24V system, I could run it straight off the 24V batteries. Great presentation.
So if you have two, 12v 100 amp hour batteries in parallel, it becomes 12v at 200 amp hours or 2,580 watt hours. If you put those batteries in series, then it's 24v at 100 amp hours, but it's still 2580 watt hours. You haven't changed the capacity, just the voltage. If your starlink is 24v, then you could power it straight off of that pack. The two main advantages to 24v is 1: lower amperages so smaller wires and 2: You can put more total solar wattage into it. By using a higher voltage, you can get more total solar power into it for the same amount of money. Check out my video on the LiTime solar charge controller. ua-cam.com/video/syrnCSMjFhI/v-deo.html . Yes, it does mean you have to buy a new inverter. I use Giandel who makes a 24v.. amzn.to/40zjOAl
@@texasprepperprojects Thanks for some great info. I always thought hooking in series halved the watt hours too. This is why the internet and UA-cam is so awesome. Now I feel way more comfortable converting mine to 24 Volts.
Hey, that hand truck design looks familiar ;)
Very. Lots of people are doing this but none quite like my variant
@@texasprepperprojects I like your design. I made one similar to yours but with a solar panel attached to the Hand truck as well. I can angle and align the panel perfect to the sun.
Link it?
@@texasprepperprojects ua-cam.com/video/Gqt38nnRtaY/v-deo.html
@@texasprepperprojects I replied with a link but UA-cam appears to have blocked it. BTW, the reason my hand truck build is 12v is I used leftover parts from my main system that I upgraded to 24v.
Most 12v compressor refrigerators can be switched to run on 24v.
For system design, I think 12v is fine as long as you are normally under 1500w or so, and don't need to surge over 2000w. Double those numbers for a 24v system (3000w/4000w). If more than that, go 48v. Maybe someday we'll start seeing higher voltage than 48v systems readily available for DIY.
Agreed on the DC fridge. It's just nice to use smaller wire and get more power out of your solar mppt
You can still run 12V devices off a 24V system directly using a buck converter. I always use a multi buck on the DC side, so I have 5V and 12V available without coming off the inverter.
7:00 i show this
@@texasprepperprojects Yes. I don't think you referred to it as a buck converter, but you did mention dc to dc down conversion.
I subscribed with a like. It was good to see that you hooked up a 24 volt system. I been thinking on doing that for a good while and you were spot on at explaining about using a smaller gauge wire for the 24 volt system. I am glad you mention that most if not all charge controllers can be bumped up to 24 volts. There are charge controllers (that also includes PWMs) that can charge a 48 volt battery bank and 150 volts from the solar panels. Will Prose has a recent video warning of the dangers of hooking up solar panels above 50 volts when wiring them in series. A person has to know what they are doing when wiring in series otherwise they risk electrocution. That is why I use series and parallel together with two PWMs which can handle 55 volts from the solar panels. Many YT channels would have people believe PWMs are junk. From my observations and using a multi-meter, the voltage and amps start rising after first light and increases during the day to the programmed voltage. In other words, the batteries are being charge beginning at first light. Of course, an MPPT or multiple MPPTs should be used on large systems to maximize the solar input. Furthermore, I have wind and solar on a different system. Wind power is a complicated subject and more expensive than solar but great in using off grid with solar. However, I am not off grid. It's not possible where I live and this would be true for a lot of households.
thanks for the note! Check out my latest video on a 24v all in one
@@texasprepperprojects Sure will and thanks for replying.
Do I need a shunt if I have a Victron 100/30 and doing a 24 volt system
Don't know
Alright thanks for getting back to me
Nice video but I am not sure how you attached the plywood to the metal hand truck? Did you drill through the metal frame? Also, I notice all you tube solar guys always use unfinished plywood, is there a danger in painting the plywood?
Yes I use a 2.5" 1/4" x 20 bolt and drill all the way through the entire thing. Since inverters and mppt get hot, I don't like to mount them to painted surfaces
Greetings from sunny Jamaica 🇯🇲 I have just come across your video. I have a 24v system which is 4x12v 200ah gel batteries, and I would like to replace those gel batteries with 4x12v 100ah lifepo4 batteries. Question is can I connect the lifepo4 in series parallel as i did with the gel batteries. batteries
Yes you can
You didn't mention what watt size panels to charge in the discussion on 48 volt system. There are 100 watt panels out there and 435 watt panels I've seen out there. Do you still need alot of panels with the 48 volt system with high watt panels? I'm trying to understand and it's all confusing.
In this case wattage is not relevant. That 435 watt panel is PROBABLY 37 Volts at 15 amps or so. I have 12 volt 200 watt panels and I have 37 volt 250 watt panels. You have to read the specs of your panels and your charge controller very carefully. The best of both is high voltage and high current, typically residential panels are the best mix
Hello, what awg did you use to connect both batteries? What awg did you use to connect batteries to inverter?
I have 2x 12volts 100A connected in series (24v) with a 4awg 2ft wire. Can i connect batteries to my 2000watt inverter with 2awg wires? Thank you!
Yes. 4awg min, 2awg preferred
@texasprepperprojects bless you!
Just bought 2 Lithium batteries, one is 13.30V and the other 13.33V. Do you think they're safe enough for me to connect them in series for a new setup? Thank you!
Fully charge them both alone first
Oh dang I thought you'd be doing a 48V system. Cool vid tho!
Watch all the way through. I'm not a fan of 48v
I’m clueless to all of this Will you be willing to help me with an electrical parts list ? Eco Flo has a 5kw and 10 kw mobile power kit for a van but it’s priced so high. Is it possible to piece a system together that does same but at a better price point ?
Very much so. Click the links in the description
amzn.to/4dp4Dxh
Https://amzn.to/4cyv7Ln
amzn.to/4dPQid4
Always go with a low frequency inverter, not those cheap Chinese high frequency ones like he is showing you, the battery is fine altho there are cheaper ones just as good. So do you need 200amp bms on your battery? 1500w ÷ 24v = 62.5 amps so you only need 100 amp BMS on the battery. Let's say later you want to run a 3000w inverter, add another battery with a 100amp bms, now you have 2 x 100amp bms batteries, drawing 3000w ÷24 v = 125 amps, being pulled from 2 100amp bms s sharing the 125 amp load, basically 62.5 amps each, if wired correctly, not wired correctly 1 battery will pull more than the other
@@dustydawson8977 Hi. I want a system that is equal or better then the EcoFlo mobile power kit but at a lesser price. I need someone that can put together a shopping list for me as I’m not sure how to achieve items needed Thnks
@tonyhernandez3433 I would like someone to do everything for me for nothing too, but life just isn't that way. Easy as I can make it, it's up to you how cheap. Amazon,low frequency inverter,lithium batteries,40 amp mppt,24v system. There's your recipe
Is it ok to put the lithium batteries on their side ?
What i was told by thr manufacturers is that you can put them on their end like I do, but not on their side where the terminals are horizontal
Awesome video and I have everything to build my own except for the batteries -- Do not buy anything from Aolithium. I ordered multiple products from this company that reflected they were in stock. The company waited until the date I was suppose to receive the products (almost 3 weeks after I placed my order) to tell me they are no longer in stock and haven't refunded me my money. Basically they're trying to keep my money and will not ship the products.
Great tip!
Aolithium got in touch with me by email and asked for my order number. I provided my order number to Aolithium and they went ghost on me. So screw Aolithium.
Great info but that tiny made in china step down is concerning with it getting Uber hot.
Depends on the load you are putting on it. For me it would be small items
12.8v X 100A = 1000w? 🤨
You have inverter losses to deal with also. If you go to 1:52 you'll see that 1,000w is pulling 75 amps from the battery. So, I'm slightly off, but you wouldn't want to run something right up to the 100 amp limit of the BMS 24x7. So, my comment about 1,000w is me errroring on the side of caution and rounding down for safety and inverter limits. Most BMS can spike to 150 or 200 amps, so you CAN run a couple thousand watts, but not for very long
8:45 - 9:00 Unless I'm misunderstanding you.
Correction the 24 volt system is only 100 amp hours since it’s wired in series… just an observation
Wrong. It is two, 200 amp hour batteries.
Tizactly 24v 200 ah the 12v is 300ah
What about a 36v system ahahahahahaha!!!
Haha. Those products are very rare. Seem to be limited to golf carts
Monster??? 😂😂😂😂 A single Pylontech 48 V batterie holds 4.8kWh. I run 20 of these with 3 times 8 kVA Victron Quattros and 30kWp PV.
Cool
I run a hand-picked non rainforest earthwood mousetrap with Selenium trigger on top of an interstitial co-polymer self-heating .003 microfarad spring and telekinetic monitoring, all powered by a 2026 Lincoln 500 megavolt locomotive engine.
Stay gold.