Unlike most YT videos, the end was worth it. In the process of putting together a system for my home and thankful to learn about the importance of the max open voltage.
Thank you. Check out my other channel. Southern Solar Academy. I am moving all of my solar stuff to that channel. Many tractor people don't care about solar.
I have been running a 5KW PowMr all in one in a 48v system with 2,000 watts of solar panels and 800Ah of LiFePO4 batteries. The system has worked great for 3 years, and I live on the road full time in my Enclosed Snowmobile Trailer to Tiny-Home/RV. I am 100% off grid all the time. I have a tri-fuel generator but never use it. I have a split AC/Heat Pump and full accoutrement of 110v home appliances including computers, big screen TVs, full size refrigerator, incinerator toilet, washer & dryer, and more.
@@rollingmancave4547Series connecting batteries increase the voltage but the current remains the same. With 4 12 volt 200 AH batteries in series you have a 48 volt 200 AH battery bank. To increase your system to an 800 AH bank you will need to repeat your battery series connections 3 more times then parallel all 4 strings. For a 48 volt 800 AH battery bank you will need 16 - 12 volt 200 AH batteries. That will be a very nice battery bank.
In alot of cases charge controllers/Solar panels and 12v batteries will work in a 12v or 24v capacity. So an upgrade from 12v to 24v is a easy and cost effective transition. Note: when inverting from 12vdc to 120ac you are making a 10:1 ratio conversion with a scaled losss of efficiency whereof a 24v system you are suffering half of that 5:1 loss of efficiency. When you scale up to 48v system than you are cutting that in half again. + or -.
Something that is important is to torque every wire to spec. Loose wires cause shorts sparks and fires, not just for solar but for electricity in general
I too bought a Sungoldpower unit 2 weeks after you. It does claim 4000 Watts although I don't need more than 1200. Guess I shoulda offered to buy the used one. : )
One thing I noticed about the sungold over the Powermr is the sungold has 120vac input and output voltage whereof the powermr only has 110vac. Grid is typically 120vac. Appliances have a range of 106-125vac. Having the higher vac capacity of the sungold will keep your appliances hapoier and less likely to brown out and fail. I think I would have added an additional charge controller and panel up. By the way the first video I 've watched from the channel is about the solar tracking array. Very impressive. Keep rollin. Great content.
I dont have money right now but will buy one of these inverters soon. I have a 2500w array and only using 3 250W panels on a waterwell pump. These inverters were about double the price when I added one to my cart years ago. Cool shed...
Good video. I will be ordering a 5,000w SunGold Power All-in one 48v inverter charger before the end of the month as they are on sale till Nov. 30th. I purchased 8, 550w SunGold Power solar panels that I will be racking on the roof of my motorhome and wiring in series. They just arrived a few days ago. This is the maximum number of panels I can fit up there, covering my entire roof. Though I have another 620w array on the side of my motorhome on a separate 50a 12v controller to charge my 7.1Kwh 12v battery bank. The 550w panels have a Vmp of 41.96v and a Voc of 49.9v, so the 8-panel string will have a Vmp of 336v and a Voc of 399 volts. This works out perfectly for this 5,000w all-in one system, which will handle a Voc of 500v. The MPPT voltage rating goes up to 450v, well under the 336 Vmp of the solar array. This keeps the amperage from the solar array down to an IMP of only 13.11, perfect for the controller's maximum of 16A. The total rating of the array will be 4,400watts which matches well with the controller's 5,000 w maximum power output and 5,500w maximum input capacity. This high voltage system will help keep my wiring size and complexity, thus the weight, to a minimum. I just need to be very careful and deliberate when wiring everything up, as DC voltage in this range can be instantly lethal if a mistake is made.
Tony, I just recently watched the install of the Sungold power, now I need to see why you switched, and may go right to the PowMr, lol. I’m thinking it is something to do with how much solar input it can take. I’m thankful to see your videos. You are the first person I have seen install circuit breakers on the solar input and the battery input. 99% show a metal fuse, so much easier and cleaner your way, and easy to service with the flip of a switch
Ordered one of the smaller ones that only needs 30v to work. This is an emergency setup it will have a maximum of 440W (currently) in panels on it. I'll have to throw these in series just to get to 42v. It has a 100w load but I may use it to charge the ECOFLOW fast since it can handle the full 1800w load.
If needed you can always get a seperate controller to help charge your batteries. Your VOC is the voltage you add up and don't go over their requirement. If you lay your panel down at noon and get a multimeter that is the voltage you should see. Same with AMPS. I have been wrong in the pass so don't take anything as gospel. Good Luck..
I'm a little late to this party, but I just got my PowMr (same model as yours) and I would very much like to see how you set your parameters for you system.
I am planning on upgrading next year to a really big system. This has been a learning experience. POWMR was kind enough to let us test this upgraded inverter. They seem to make good stuff at a fair price.
I have a 16ft work trailer with 400 watts of solar on the roof. I originally had an aims 5k watt inverter with 2 200ah big block batteries that weighed a ton. But now I’ve pulled those batteries out and now thinking about going lithium with an all in one inverter. If I get 4-100ah lithium batteries with a powMr all in one inverter with the existing 400 w of panels I already have work. I’m looking at the 5k PowMr
I just ordered the 3000 watt from gold in the specifications it noted that on May 8 the MPT part of it now excepts 4000 W and for open voltage of 120 to 450 V so I ordered one I hope they weren't lying on their advertisement
I saw where SunGoldPower had changed theirs today after I released the video. Mine is an older version. I think they are all made in the same factory with different specs for each company.
Tony, I just can’t resist waiting until the end. I was leaning towards the Sungold you replaced. QUESTION; HASN’T Sungold updated their inverter too? It seems the specs I saw, was the same 4,000 solar? If they have updated, would you still buy the PwrMr over the Sungold? Do they come with similar accessories? It seems the PwrMr is less expensive, so if performance and features are the same, what would you do, knowing you have used both? Many thanks
In short, what you have bought was a different rebranding of a product with slight variations within its technology. Congratulations, you have jest found out about rebranding
Not sure where you got your info but the latest Sungoldpower 3kw has the same specs as the one your installing. Yes you would need to buy the upgraded one as you need the new hardware to get the same specs as PowMR you have. I doubt a software update would get you much more power out of your old one.
I got my specs from my SunGoldPower All in one inverter. They only recently upgraded their unit after I filmed this video. Mine Sungoldpower is the older one. (5 months ago) The big problem now is where someone orders their SunGoldPower unit. There is old stock still moving around on the web. I think they will be fine if they buy it direct.
I have been thinking of trying out the PowMR unit. I have worried about the support they have, I heard that SunGold is far better for tech support, but who knows.
I was wondering that, less about tech support and more about reliability. I've heard of some SunGold units going out after 5-6 months and then taking 8+ months to get a replacement.
I'm certain these are the same internally, but just a different cover. My 24V SunGoldPower has the same specs as this PowMR as far as solar goes; 4000W PV input, 450VDC max open circuit voltage, MPPT input range of 120-4400VDC, and 80A max charge current.
I have the all in one powmr also. The problem i found with it is that it often locks in on a low voltage pv input and doesn't reset itself to a higher voltage when its getting better light. I ended up buying a 150-70 victron charge controller and my power input has more than doubled with the same exact panels. The victron was kinda expensive but definitely a game changer as to how my system performs. I have a fairly large battery bank and now use a low frequency sungold power inverter which was also another great investment. Good luck with the all in one inverters i still have mine but do t use it nearly as much. My all in one is kinda a backup unit now and our home runs from the seperate components
@@TonysTractorAdventure the biggest thing I figured out with my all in one unit was the grounding situation. It would trip a GFCI on my house 120 volt that was going to the AC input on the inverter if I had the inverter AC out put grounded to the neutral. After a ton of videos I found a guy that clarified a lot for me and ended up talking to him about and he walked me thru how I need to wire things so that it was still safe and I was able to use the AC input to make the 40 amp charger still work and the AC bypass to still work. Seemed it was all good in until id turn on power to the AC input side for the AC charger but then problems and by using a relay it was an easy fix but not something I'd have known to do without some help. Anyways now the only time I turn on the all in one unit is if I'm needing an extra 40 ps of charge or if I want to use my leaf batteries to put some power back into my other system. When I get home off the road I'm thinking of hooking up the all in one unit and my leaf batteries to the water heater and that kinda being its own system and taking the water heater off my regular panel. I figured it will help my lifepo4 batteries not work as hard and give that load to the unused components that's just basically sitting there not doing much. I'm almost always on the road in this truck it seems but when I do get the chance to get home I spend all my time messing withy solar stuff. Glad you make the videos wish I didn't have stage fright id like to do the same
I have 2 Growatt 5000 us version. if you are gonna do 240 volt or 2 120v lines you will need an auto transformer to balance the lines. I can bring in 6000 watts solar in each unit( 450V open circuit and 22A) 440 max from solar and 22 amps max. These just work and are so affordable. These are for 48 volt systems.
I don't recommend putting your panels in the shade. LOL! I am sorry, that was too easy. My panels get sun from mid morning until late evening. I set it up optimally for my situation. I am looking at micro inverters at our cabin.
Wouldn't it have been cheaper to buy a solar battery charger to handle the higher voltage instead of replacing the whole unit? You can connect and use multiple chargers on the same battery at the same time.
I see you have your panels on two Ecoworthy trackers. I believe those actuators are 12v. But you system is 24v. Do you have converters at each tracker station to get the 24 down to 12?
Hola si tengo 2 paneles de 32 voltios cada uno para un total de 64 voltios. Esto sera suficiente para activar el powmr o necesito los 120 vol que marca la etiqueta? Saludos desde Venezuela
We plan on building a 36kw system in the building in the future. It will make a lot of heat. The foam insulation does a good job of keep in heat in. That little unit pulls about 400watts once it is running.
tony, have the same inverter. i cant get the solar icon to show up. also have 3 eco worthy solar trackers going to it. ive followed the setting in the powmr book. what are your setting. thanks
This system is doing well. It has never failed to do what it has been advertised to do. Understand, I built this system as a learning system. We are currently installing a much larger system.
Hola que buena información, una cónsulta este inversor pow mr tiene ventilador con cambio de velocidades y se activa cuando la temperatura aumenta. O en cambio estan funcionamientos constantemente ? Lo digo porque esto acorta la vida útil de los ventiladores
I can set the smaller ones up with priorities. I never looked to see if I can actually produce power without having the batteries. He would be very unpredictable.
Great video. How do you ground your AC output? I have seen some connect the ground wire from AC output to the ground from AC input. Also, how do you ground chassis? Thanks.
Hey there Mr. solar farm man.. Just not sure what I was seeing.. you have the 2 trackers.. it was hard to count the number of panels on each one. I saw 4 panels on the one you were working on and 6 on the other array.. but you said you have 1200 and 1.04 incoming PV.. Mine with six 200's on it never sees but about 5 or 600w max. Guess I need to hire a pro.. glad your is working..
The PowMr 3000W inverter does not have an internally bonded neutral. This means that if you're using it in a system where a neutral-ground bond is required, you'll need to handle that bonding externally, typically in your main distribution panel. If you have AC input connected to the grid, the neutral-ground bond is usually already present in the grid connection, and you should not add another bond within the inverter. If the system is entirely off-grid, you might need to create a neutral-ground bond at a different point in the system, such as in a load center or distribution panel
@TonysTractorAdventure The POW-LVM5K-48V-N shall be used to power a residential electrical panel in a 100% off grid camp. Just wanted to know if I should bond the neutral to the ground in the residential panel as one would in a typical utility serviced primary panel. Sounds like the answer is yes. Thanks for your response.
By putting the panels in series aren't you loosing amps? so the batteries take longer to charge or am I missing something? Great video thanks for sharing.
can you limit how many amps drawn from the AC in if the utility or generator power is limited? so if I want to charge from AC, it will adjust the amp depending on the output.
All in One (hybrid) unit has a function Off grid (default) which does not send excess output to grid. Like the said name "Off grid", it's output power is totally OFF GRID.
I have a 10 kw PowerMr that's a split phase. I don't believe the 3000 watt has split phase. Just 120 volt. I know you can get a PowerMr 5000 watt in a 120/240 split phase.
I didnt feel like sub box either so how did you ground? I planned on grounding earth at solat panel frames and seperate one for inverter its completely off grid. Then ground bar for the ac in and 5000w has ground ac out too would that work? The only reason i wanted to do seperate was length of cable is costly.
It will be easier to describe the problem: PowMR 6.2 KW inverter The installation of photovoltaic panels is 3.6 KW, the inverter is not connected to the battery and is not connected to the grid. I have a 2 KW water heater connected to the inverter output. The inverter will not turn on the heater even in full sunlight. If I turn on a 500-watt receiver instead of a heater, the inverter produces electricity. How to set the inverter to provide current all the time regardless of the load, I want it to provide as much current as is currently in production and not to turn off when I turn on a larger load. Photovoltaic installation: 225Wx16=3600W 36.9Vx16=295.2V Inverter Settings ua-cam.com/video/l9n7lgL5nu4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
I have a PowMr of 6.2kw (POW-HVM6.2M-48V) nominal operating voltage 360vdc; can the solar inverter work without battery and connected to grid if I have four pv arrays in series that will reach at 190voc
I am not and in by no means an expert. I try to become proficient by studying my individual system. I don't have enough experience to give you a qualified answer.
I see the MPPT voltage range starts at 120 volts, so I assume you must have at least that amount of voltage comming from the solar array, is that correct?
Great video, i just ordered the powmr, to use with my 24v system, i have 4 300watt panels, this is just the video ive been looking for, would like the link to the breakers you used and would like to know about the ghost batteries, thanks, new subscriber!
I was think about doing this, should I buy 3 or 4 200 watt solar panels, what do i need to look at buy panel, 12 or 24 voly panel or12 volt panel what voltage/ information I need to look for . Still new at this
Novice here. I have just set up my off grid system with this hybrid inverter. Where it says load output kw - maybe a stupid question, but I assume that this is kw per hour right? Also, I tend to understand the kw inout and output, but when it talks amps, I get confused as I want to know what that means in power or in my mind kw. As a side note, I have 2 x 12v/250A gel batteries set up in series.
No. Output KW means one thousand watts output at any time. These units are 3KW which means they can put out 3000 watts continuously. They have a peak output of 6kw for a very short burst. Watts (W): Watts are the unit of power in electrical systems. Power is a measure of the rate at which energy is transferred or converted. In an electrical context, one watt is equal to one joule of energy transferred or converted per second. The power (P) in watts can be calculated using the formula P = V × I, where V is the voltage in volts and I is the current in amperes. Voltage (V): Voltage, also known as electric potential difference, is the force that drives electric current through a circuit. It is measured in volts (V) and can be thought of as the pressure that pushes electrons through a conductor. In a simple circuit, voltage is the difference in electric potential between two points, such as the positive and negative terminals of a battery. Ohms (Ω): Ohms are the unit of electrical resistance. Resistance is a measure of how much an object opposes the flow of electric current. The higher the resistance, the harder it is for current to flow through a material. The resistance (R) of a material is measured in ohms and can be calculated using Ohm's law: R = V / I, where V is the voltage across the material and I is the current flowing through it. Amperes (A): Amperes, often shortened to amps, are the unit of electric current. Current is the flow of electric charge, and one ampere is defined as the flow of one coulomb of charge per second. In a circuit, current is the rate at which electrons flow through a conductor, and it is directly proportional to the voltage applied across the conductor and inversely proportional to the resistance of the conductor.
Hey tony, Sam here, my question is how large is your battery bank, I have the same system as you but my batteries drain very quick, I have 2 100 ah lithium batteries, hey any help would be helpful, thanks for your time
To size lithium batteries for a solar system, you'll need to consider several factors: Energy Usage: Calculate your daily energy consumption in kilowatt-hours (kWh). This involves assessing the power requirements of all the devices you plan to run on solar power. Days of Autonomy: Determine how many days of autonomy you want your system to have. This is the number of days the system can operate without solar input, typically during cloudy or rainy periods. Common values are 1-3 days. Solar Panel Capacity: Calculate the daily solar energy production of your panels. This depends on your location and the efficiency of your solar panels. Ensure it's enough to meet your daily energy needs and recharge the batteries. Battery Capacity Calculation: To calculate the required battery capacity (in kWh), use this formula: Battery Capacity (kWh) = Daily Energy Consumption (kWh) x Days of Autonomy Depth of Discharge (DoD): Determine the depth to which you plan to discharge your lithium batteries. Lithium batteries can typically handle deeper discharges (e.g., 80% DoD) compared to lead-acid batteries. Voltage and Configuration: Choose an appropriate battery voltage and configuration (e.g., 12V, 24V, 48V) based on your system's requirements and the compatibility with your solar charge controller and inverter. Battery Type: Select lithium batteries suitable for solar applications. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are often preferred for their safety and longevity. Efficiency and Temperature: Consider the efficiency of your battery system and how temperature affects its performance. Some batteries may require additional cooling or heating mechanisms.
Okay, enough playing. Let's get back to work on the cabin! Just kidding, kind-da! 😉 We are considering doing exactly what y'all are doing with the cabin and will do solar if we do. Do you plan to do solar at the cabin?
Nice video, just a little confused about your 4000W solar input statement. If the charge controller is only 80 amps, that is about 2000w (24v system) to the battery. How would the other 2000w of solar be utilized?
Don't over math it. 4000 watt input PV doesn't translate to exactly the same output wattage in another voltage. There is loss during the process. Just because the panels have the potential output, doesn't mean they will always do it. If you have more potential, it will met your needs on the less than perfect weather days.
That's an 80 amp AC charger, not related to the mppt charge controller which will accept up to 4000 watts of solar at 120 to 400 volts. You do need to be sure to limit the input wattage else you can damage the solar controller, especially in the winter when the panel are cold when they produce more power.
If you only got 60 volts out of your 3s4p panels, you never fed enough power into the SunGoldPower inverter to run 15:05 the MPPT Charge Controller. Ill bet when you broke 120v by adding more PV panel power to kick in the MPPT function in the inverter. With this new setup, the amp output must have been startling 5:55
hola gracias por responder, mi pregunta es si tengo 2 paneles solares que entregan 32 voltios cada uno para un total de 64 voltios esto será suficiente para activar el inversor hibrido powmr@@TonysTractorAdventure
Anybody know how to wire 2 PowerMr 5k solar inverters in parallel off grid? They told me they can run from sunlight only buut in the manual it shows an ac connection whenever it shows the inverters in parallel. I do have an existing solar setup running a 12v/ 5000watt inverter.
Do you know anything about whether it is possible to give electricity back to the grid with it, there are many who think it is possible depending on how you put it on the menu, I need an inverter that can be used on battery and solar plus give back to the grid when I do not use the power myself and there is no charging
Unlike most YT videos, the end was worth it. In the process of putting together a system for my home and thankful to learn about the importance of the max open voltage.
Thank you. Check out my other channel. Southern Solar Academy. I am moving all of my solar stuff to that channel. Many tractor people don't care about solar.
I have been running a 5KW PowMr all in one in a 48v system with 2,000 watts of solar panels and 800Ah of LiFePO4 batteries. The system has worked great for 3 years, and I live on the road full time in my Enclosed Snowmobile Trailer to Tiny-Home/RV. I am 100% off grid all the time. I have a tri-fuel generator but never use it. I have a split AC/Heat Pump and full accoutrement of 110v home appliances including computers, big screen TVs, full size refrigerator, incinerator toilet, washer & dryer, and more.
So you have 8 48v 100ah batteries? Thats allot of battery crazy expensive
@@derekfraser6992 Four 200Ah 12v batteries wired in series for 48v :)
@@derekfraser6992 4 x 200Ah 12v batteries in series, so 800 Ah equivalent.
@@rollingmancave4547 In series, the voltages add, but not the amps. So you have 48v 200Ah equivalent.
@@rollingmancave4547Series connecting batteries increase the voltage but the current remains the same. With 4 12 volt 200 AH batteries in series you have a 48 volt 200 AH battery bank. To increase your system to an 800 AH bank you will need to repeat your battery series connections 3 more times then parallel all 4 strings. For a 48 volt 800 AH battery bank you will need 16 - 12 volt 200 AH batteries. That will be a very nice battery bank.
A good choice, get the unit that has the largest PV voltage and you will thank yourself in the long run. No combiner boxes or multiple cables needed.
i cannot offer ant answers, but I am impressed by the solar system you have. It's small yet functional. It works for your needs.
Great replacement great explanation great video thanks Tony and Tanya and Gizmo
It will allow us a lot more power for not much of an investment.
Love no BS videos like this
In alot of cases charge controllers/Solar panels and 12v batteries will work in a 12v or 24v capacity. So an upgrade from 12v to 24v is a easy and cost effective transition. Note: when inverting from 12vdc to 120ac you are making a 10:1 ratio conversion with a scaled losss of efficiency whereof a 24v system you are suffering half of that 5:1 loss of efficiency. When you scale up to 48v system than you are cutting that in half again. + or -.
You hit the nail right on the head
There are in fact many different types of systems
👍❤️
I am a little bit concerned about showing all of the settings. I may do a video going through the setup menu, but not which settings to chose.
Something that is important is to torque every wire to spec. Loose wires cause shorts sparks and fires, not just for solar but for electricity in general
The Sungold 3000w unit I bought has been up graded!! It can handle 4000 w. Like you said, tech changes daily!
Yes sir. It changed right after I made this video.
I too bought a Sungoldpower unit 2 weeks after you. It does claim 4000 Watts although I don't need more than 1200.
Guess I shoulda offered to buy the used one. : )
Good video
Great video.
One thing I noticed about the sungold over the Powermr is the sungold has 120vac input and output voltage whereof the powermr only has 110vac.
Grid is typically 120vac. Appliances have a range of 106-125vac. Having the higher vac capacity of the sungold will keep your appliances hapoier and less likely to brown out and fail. I think I would have added an additional charge controller and panel up.
By the way the first video I 've watched from the channel is about the solar tracking array. Very impressive. Keep rollin. Great content.
I dont have money right now but will buy one of these inverters soon. I have a 2500w array and only using 3 250W panels on a waterwell pump. These inverters were about double the price when I added one to my cart years ago. Cool shed...
Very well explained, Tony, great video! 👍🏻
Thank You.
Great video, specially the end display explanation. Thanks. I just purchased the same unit and will be insalling it next week.
Good video. I will be ordering a 5,000w SunGold Power All-in one 48v inverter charger before the end of the month as they are on sale till Nov. 30th. I purchased 8, 550w SunGold Power solar panels that I will be racking on the roof of my motorhome and wiring in series. They just arrived a few days ago. This is the maximum number of panels I can fit up there, covering my entire roof. Though I have another 620w array on the side of my motorhome on a separate 50a 12v controller to charge my 7.1Kwh 12v battery bank.
The 550w panels have a Vmp of 41.96v and a Voc of 49.9v, so the 8-panel string will have a Vmp of 336v and a Voc of 399 volts. This works out perfectly for this 5,000w all-in one system, which will handle a Voc of 500v. The MPPT voltage rating goes up to 450v, well under the 336 Vmp of the solar array. This keeps the amperage from the solar array down to an IMP of only 13.11, perfect for the controller's maximum of 16A. The total rating of the array will be 4,400watts which matches well with the controller's 5,000 w maximum power output and 5,500w maximum input capacity. This high voltage system will help keep my wiring size and complexity, thus the weight, to a minimum. I just need to be very careful and deliberate when wiring everything up, as DC voltage in this range can be instantly lethal if a mistake is made.
Tony, I just recently watched the install of the Sungold power, now I need to see why you switched, and may go right to the PowMr, lol. I’m thinking it is something to do with how much solar input it can take. I’m thankful to see your videos. You are the first person I have seen install circuit breakers on the solar input and the battery input. 99% show a metal fuse, so much easier and cleaner your way, and easy to service with the flip of a switch
Good looking product Tony.
I know you metered those tails out before you messed with them.
I licked each one! LOL! It was a shocking experience. :)
Ordered one of the smaller ones that only needs 30v to work. This is an emergency setup it will have a maximum of 440W (currently) in panels on it. I'll have to throw these in series just to get to 42v. It has a 100w load but I may use it to charge the ECOFLOW fast since it can handle the full 1800w load.
This screen is used in a bazillion chinese inverters including Scneider, and Xantrex. It's pretty good.
If needed you can always get a seperate controller to help charge your batteries.
Your VOC is the voltage you add up and don't go over their requirement.
If you lay your panel down at noon and get a multimeter that is the voltage you should see. Same with AMPS.
I have been wrong in the pass so don't take anything as gospel.
Good Luck..
Enjoyed watching, I'm running a 24/70 victron with 18/320 walt panels. I'd like to see more 24V installations in utube land
I'm a little late to this party, but I just got my PowMr (same model as yours) and I would very much like to see how you set your parameters for you system.
Awesome stuff as always and looks like a really good product and can handle more panels for u at a later date
I am planning on upgrading next year to a really big system. This has been a learning experience. POWMR was kind enough to let us test this upgraded inverter. They seem to make good stuff at a fair price.
Nice explanation Tony
Glad you liked it
I have a 16ft work trailer with 400 watts of solar on the roof. I originally had an aims 5k watt inverter with 2 200ah big block batteries that weighed a ton. But now I’ve pulled those batteries out and now thinking about going lithium with an all in one inverter. If I get 4-100ah lithium batteries with a powMr all in one inverter with the existing 400 w of panels I already have work. I’m looking at the 5k PowMr
I just ordered the 3000 watt from gold in the specifications it noted that on May 8 the MPT part of it now excepts 4000 W and for open voltage of 120 to 450 V so I ordered one I hope they weren't lying on their advertisement
I saw where SunGoldPower had changed theirs today after I released the video. Mine is an older version. I think they are all made in the same factory with different specs for each company.
Please do show the video of how your system is set up, it would help me greatly!, thanks for this video, I bought this same setup
Tony, I just can’t resist waiting until the end. I was leaning towards the Sungold you replaced. QUESTION; HASN’T Sungold updated their inverter too? It seems the specs I saw, was the same 4,000 solar? If they have updated, would you still buy the PwrMr over the Sungold? Do they come with similar accessories? It seems the PwrMr is less expensive, so if performance and features are the same, what would you do, knowing you have used both? Many thanks
Yes, Sungold updated their inverter shortly after this video came out.
In short, what you have bought was a different rebranding of a product with slight variations within its technology. Congratulations, you have jest found out about rebranding
Not sure where you got your info but the latest Sungoldpower 3kw has the same specs as the one your installing. Yes you would need to buy the upgraded one as you need the new hardware to get the same specs as PowMR you have. I doubt a software update would get you much more power out of your old one.
I got my specs from my SunGoldPower All in one inverter. They only recently upgraded their unit after I filmed this video. Mine Sungoldpower is the older one. (5 months ago) The big problem now is where someone orders their SunGoldPower unit. There is old stock still moving around on the web. I think they will be fine if they buy it direct.
I have been thinking of trying out the PowMR unit. I have worried about the support they have, I heard that SunGold is far better for tech support, but who knows.
I was wondering that, less about tech support and more about reliability. I've heard of some SunGold units going out after 5-6 months and then taking 8+ months to get a replacement.
I'm certain these are the same internally, but just a different cover. My 24V SunGoldPower has the same specs as this PowMR as far as solar goes; 4000W PV input, 450VDC max open circuit voltage, MPPT input range of 120-4400VDC, and 80A max charge current.
They're definitely in the same family
awesome informative video!
Thank you
I have the all in one powmr also. The problem i found with it is that it often locks in on a low voltage pv input and doesn't reset itself to a higher voltage when its getting better light. I ended up buying a 150-70 victron charge controller and my power input has more than doubled with the same exact panels. The victron was kinda expensive but definitely a game changer as to how my system performs. I have a fairly large battery bank and now use a low frequency sungold power inverter which was also another great investment. Good luck with the all in one inverters i still have mine but do t use it nearly as much. My all in one is kinda a backup unit now and our home runs from the seperate components
To this point, mine has worked flawlessly. There are so many variations on how to set it up.
@@TonysTractorAdventure the biggest thing I figured out with my all in one unit was the grounding situation. It would trip a GFCI on my house 120 volt that was going to the AC input on the inverter if I had the inverter AC out put grounded to the neutral. After a ton of videos I found a guy that clarified a lot for me and ended up talking to him about and he walked me thru how I need to wire things so that it was still safe and I was able to use the AC input to make the 40 amp charger still work and the AC bypass to still work. Seemed it was all good in until id turn on power to the AC input side for the AC charger but then problems and by using a relay it was an easy fix but not something I'd have known to do without some help. Anyways now the only time I turn on the all in one unit is if I'm needing an extra 40 ps of charge or if I want to use my leaf batteries to put some power back into my other system. When I get home off the road I'm thinking of hooking up the all in one unit and my leaf batteries to the water heater and that kinda being its own system and taking the water heater off my regular panel. I figured it will help my lifepo4 batteries not work as hard and give that load to the unused components that's just basically sitting there not doing much. I'm almost always on the road in this truck it seems but when I do get the chance to get home I spend all my time messing withy solar stuff. Glad you make the videos wish I didn't have stage fright id like to do the same
Id love to have the new victron that does the 500 volts input. I have the 150-70 and its amazing but i should have sprung for the new 500v model.
Can you turn off the inverter separately to turn off its idle power consumption?
What is the power draw at idle? Also, sounds like the fans are super loud?
how many years of solor collection it will take to cover the money spent on the entire system ???
I am totally dependent on my system 👍
As we move toward full Off-Grid, I hope to as well.
I have 2 Growatt 5000 us version. if you are gonna do 240 volt or 2 120v lines you will need an auto transformer to balance the lines. I can bring in 6000 watts solar in each unit( 450V open circuit and 22A) 440 max from solar and 22 amps max. These just work and are so affordable. These are for 48 volt systems.
Thank you for your comment
series connecting panels will get you higher voltage but if half of your panels are in the shade, wont that drop your voltage?
I don't recommend putting your panels in the shade. LOL! I am sorry, that was too easy. My panels get sun from mid morning until late evening. I set it up optimally for my situation. I am looking at micro inverters at our cabin.
Wouldn't it have been cheaper to buy a solar battery charger to handle the higher voltage instead of replacing the whole unit? You can connect and use multiple chargers on the same battery at the same time.
How is the unit working, 1 year on? Curious since it only has a 1 year warranty
It is still working perfectly
I see you have your panels on two Ecoworthy trackers. I believe those actuators are 12v. But you system is 24v. Do you have converters at each tracker station to get the 24 down to 12?
I did an entire video on setting it up. It explains the question very well. Much better than I can do in the comment section. 👍
Hola si tengo 2 paneles de 32 voltios cada uno para un total de 64 voltios. Esto sera suficiente para activar el powmr o necesito los 120 vol que marca la etiqueta? Saludos desde Venezuela
Is the point of putting the mini-split in the shed to keep the equipment working well? Or is it a proof-of-concept / technology demo for the cabin?
We plan on building a 36kw system in the building in the future. It will make a lot of heat. The foam insulation does a good job of keep in heat in. That little unit pulls about 400watts once it is running.
tony, have the same inverter. i cant get the solar icon to show up. also have 3 eco worthy solar trackers going to it. ive followed the setting in the powmr book. what are your setting. thanks
With all the exposed copper conductors, the current can jump across if the voltage is high?
I have never had a problem. Stay under 450v and it shouldn't be a problem with common sense.
How has this inverter worked out since installing 11 months ago? Should I consider this for a purchase or look at Growatt or MPP brands instead?
It has function perfectly.
how is the powmr keeping up?
This system is doing well. It has never failed to do what it has been advertised to do. Understand, I built this system as a learning system. We are currently installing a much larger system.
Hola que buena información, una cónsulta este inversor pow mr tiene ventilador con cambio de velocidades y se activa cuando la temperatura aumenta. O en cambio estan funcionamientos constantemente ? Lo digo porque esto acorta la vida útil de los ventiladores
It changes speed depending on the load.
Looking at the 6500 Watt version now that is able to run Without Batteries if need be.
I can set the smaller ones up with priorities. I never looked to see if I can actually produce power without having the batteries. He would be very unpredictable.
Also is this a 48v inverter?
Great video. How do you ground your AC output? I have seen some connect the ground wire from AC output to the ground from AC input. Also, how do you ground chassis? Thanks.
Hi Tony, I just bought the 24v PowMR. Do you still like it? Enjoyed your video.
I have the older version but it held up well. I have upgraded to a larger system, but I am going to use my older system in the chicken house.
@@TonysTractorAdventure OK. Thanks for info.
I so LI on the display, do the devices has a litio setting?
Sungold looks like the renogy.
do you know the idle consumption ?
Hey there Mr. solar farm man.. Just not sure what I was seeing.. you have the 2 trackers.. it was hard to count the number of panels on each one. I saw 4 panels on the one you were working on and 6 on the other array.. but you said you have 1200 and 1.04 incoming PV.. Mine with six 200's on it never sees but about 5 or 600w max. Guess I need to hire a pro.. glad your is working..
I have 6 100 watt trackers on each solar tracker. We get good sun here for the most part.
One other thought. My panels seem to be outperforming their rating.
I also didn't get that high with my panels running in parallel and series. Now that it is straight series, this thing is smoking.
Ciao . Hai provato a controllare se è monofase cioè negativo =0 ? Grazie
Does the PowMr have an internally bonded neutral?
The PowMr 3000W inverter does not have an internally bonded neutral. This means that if you're using it in a system where a neutral-ground bond is required, you'll need to handle that bonding externally, typically in your main distribution panel. If you have AC input connected to the grid, the neutral-ground bond is usually already present in the grid connection, and you should not add another bond within the inverter.
If the system is entirely off-grid, you might need to create a neutral-ground bond at a different point in the system, such as in a load center or distribution panel
@TonysTractorAdventure The POW-LVM5K-48V-N shall be used to power a residential electrical panel in a 100% off grid camp. Just wanted to know if I should bond the neutral to the ground in the residential panel as one would in a typical utility serviced primary panel. Sounds like the answer is yes. Thanks for your response.
Hello Graet video did you do a setup video pal 😊
Please ensure your wires do not have exposed copper. Also insulated screwdrivers always is good practice
The display looks the same as Sungold?
Yep. They are definitely cousins
Thanks for posting this video, I have the exact same unit.
By putting the panels in series aren't you loosing amps? so the batteries take longer to charge or am I missing something? Great video thanks for sharing.
its the same power.
Could you share what gauge wire you used as the AC input and PV inputs? Ty
I will not. There are too many variables. What works for me, may not work for your system.
can you limit how many amps drawn from the AC in if the utility or generator power is limited? so if I want to charge from AC, it will adjust the amp depending on the output.
I'm thinking of buying a PowMr 10k. How's your been holding up? Thanks for the video
So I'm assuming with this system, if you're using little energy but generating lots of solar, it would not back be the grid?
All in One (hybrid) unit has a function Off grid (default) which does not send excess output to grid. Like the said name "Off grid", it's output power is totally OFF GRID.
Does this inverter/generator have split phase for a 50 amp rv? If not, can you point me to the same powerMr with the split phase?
I have a 10 kw PowerMr that's a split phase. I don't believe the 3000 watt has split phase. Just 120 volt. I know you can get a PowerMr 5000 watt in a 120/240 split phase.
Great video thanks so much 😊
You are so welcome!
Good Video, but wich Wifi-Logger with RS232 are anyone using for this Inverter?
Yes
I didnt feel like sub box either so how did you ground? I planned on grounding earth at solat panel frames and seperate one for inverter its completely off grid. Then ground bar for the ac in and 5000w has ground ac out too would that work? The only reason i wanted to do seperate was length of cable is costly.
Great informative video. What's the model number of that new inverter please? Thank you!!
The link is in the video description. It is a 24v system.
@@TonysTractorAdventure thank you. I'm doing a 48v temporary system.
What happened to the SUNGOLD deal? You sell it, trade, barter, give it away??
It will be easier to describe the problem: PowMR 6.2 KW inverter The installation of photovoltaic panels is 3.6 KW, the inverter is not connected to the battery and is not connected to the grid. I have a 2 KW water heater connected to the inverter output. The inverter will not turn on the heater even in full sunlight. If I turn on a 500-watt receiver instead of a heater, the inverter produces electricity. How to set the inverter to provide current all the time regardless of the load, I want it to provide as much current as is currently in production and not to turn off when I turn on a larger load.
Photovoltaic installation:
225Wx16=3600W
36.9Vx16=295.2V
Inverter Settings
ua-cam.com/video/l9n7lgL5nu4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
I have a PowMr of 6.2kw (POW-HVM6.2M-48V) nominal operating voltage 360vdc; can the solar inverter work without battery and connected to grid if I have four pv arrays in series that will reach at 190voc
I am not and in by no means an expert. I try to become proficient by studying my individual system. I don't have enough experience to give you a qualified answer.
I see the MPPT voltage range starts at 120 volts, so I assume you must have at least that amount of voltage comming from the solar array, is that correct?
I have a video coming out soon that will explain. MPPT.
Can you connecct to this remotely with an App like SRNE with the network dongle and change settings from the app?
Yes, you can.
Great video, i just ordered the powmr, to use with my 24v system, i have 4 300watt panels, this is just the video ive been looking for, would like the link to the breakers you used and would like to know about the ghost batteries, thanks, new subscriber!
I was think about doing this, should I buy 3 or 4 200 watt solar panels, what do i need to look at buy panel, 12 or 24 voly panel or12 volt panel what voltage/ information I need to look for . Still new at this
Novice here. I have just set up my off grid system with this hybrid inverter. Where it says load output kw - maybe a stupid question, but I assume that this is kw per hour right?
Also, I tend to understand the kw inout and output, but when it talks amps, I get confused as I want to know what that means in power or in my mind kw. As a side note, I have 2 x 12v/250A gel batteries set up in series.
No. Output KW means one thousand watts output at any time. These units are 3KW which means they can put out 3000 watts continuously. They have a peak output of 6kw for a very short burst.
Watts (W): Watts are the unit of power in electrical systems. Power is a measure of the rate at which energy is transferred or converted. In an electrical context, one watt is equal to one joule of energy transferred or converted per second. The power (P) in watts can be calculated using the formula P = V × I, where V is the voltage in volts and I is the current in amperes.
Voltage (V): Voltage, also known as electric potential difference, is the force that drives electric current through a circuit. It is measured in volts (V) and can be thought of as the pressure that pushes electrons through a conductor. In a simple circuit, voltage is the difference in electric potential between two points, such as the positive and negative terminals of a battery.
Ohms (Ω): Ohms are the unit of electrical resistance. Resistance is a measure of how much an object opposes the flow of electric current. The higher the resistance, the harder it is for current to flow through a material. The resistance (R) of a material is measured in ohms and can be calculated using Ohm's law: R = V / I, where V is the voltage across the material and I is the current flowing through it.
Amperes (A): Amperes, often shortened to amps, are the unit of electric current. Current is the flow of electric charge, and one ampere is defined as the flow of one coulomb of charge per second. In a circuit, current is the rate at which electrons flow through a conductor, and it is directly proportional to the voltage applied across the conductor and inversely proportional to the resistance of the conductor.
@@TonysTractorAdventure Thanks for the detailed reply. Awesome! Much appreciated.
Hey tony, Sam here, my question is how large is your battery bank, I have the same system as you but my batteries drain very quick, I have 2 100 ah lithium batteries, hey any help would be helpful, thanks for your time
To size lithium batteries for a solar system, you'll need to consider several factors:
Energy Usage: Calculate your daily energy consumption in kilowatt-hours (kWh). This involves assessing the power requirements of all the devices you plan to run on solar power.
Days of Autonomy: Determine how many days of autonomy you want your system to have. This is the number of days the system can operate without solar input, typically during cloudy or rainy periods. Common values are 1-3 days.
Solar Panel Capacity: Calculate the daily solar energy production of your panels. This depends on your location and the efficiency of your solar panels. Ensure it's enough to meet your daily energy needs and recharge the batteries.
Battery Capacity Calculation: To calculate the required battery capacity (in kWh), use this formula:
Battery Capacity (kWh) = Daily Energy Consumption (kWh) x Days of Autonomy
Depth of Discharge (DoD): Determine the depth to which you plan to discharge your lithium batteries. Lithium batteries can typically handle deeper discharges (e.g., 80% DoD) compared to lead-acid batteries.
Voltage and Configuration: Choose an appropriate battery voltage and configuration (e.g., 12V, 24V, 48V) based on your system's requirements and the compatibility with your solar charge controller and inverter.
Battery Type: Select lithium batteries suitable for solar applications. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) batteries are often preferred for their safety and longevity.
Efficiency and Temperature: Consider the efficiency of your battery system and how temperature affects its performance. Some batteries may require additional cooling or heating mechanisms.
Okay, enough playing. Let's get back to work on the cabin! Just kidding, kind-da! 😉
We are considering doing exactly what y'all are doing with the cabin and will do solar if we do. Do you plan to do solar at the cabin?
Yes, sir. I do plan to run the cabin and almost the whole farm off of solar. I think the cabin will be stand alone solar. (off-grid)
Thanks for sharing. Can it be powered using the solar panels only or it will only power up using batteries?
I think you would need at least a small battery to keep the logic going.
@@TonysTractorAdventure thanks for your reply.
Nice video, just a little confused about your 4000W solar input statement. If the charge controller is only 80 amps, that is about 2000w (24v system) to the battery. How would the other 2000w of solar be utilized?
Don't over math it. 4000 watt input PV doesn't translate to exactly the same output wattage in another voltage. There is loss during the process. Just because the panels have the potential output, doesn't mean they will always do it. If you have more potential, it will met your needs on the less than perfect weather days.
That's an 80 amp AC charger, not related to the mppt charge controller which will accept up to 4000 watts of solar at 120 to 400 volts. You do need to be sure to limit the input wattage else you can damage the solar controller, especially in the winter when the panel are cold when they produce more power.
If you only got 60 volts out of your 3s4p panels, you never fed enough power into the SunGoldPower inverter to run 15:05 the MPPT Charge Controller. Ill bet when you broke 120v by adding more PV panel power to kick in the MPPT function in the inverter.
With this new setup, the amp output must have been startling 5:55
On the ac out is that were your mini split hook up to?
No, I ran it into a circuit breaker box
Hola una pregunta el powmr se puede activar solo con 2 paneles?
Depends on the panels
hola gracias por responder, mi pregunta es si tengo 2 paneles solares que entregan 32 voltios cada uno para un total de 64 voltios esto será suficiente para activar el inversor hibrido powmr@@TonysTractorAdventure
Can it work with just solar without batteries?
Not reliably. Every time a cloud comes by, it would shut off power. It is not meant to be tied to the active grid.
How is that inverter working out, any issues?
No issues at all. I got a 10k PowerMR for the cabin.
Thanks
No problem
Good info,Can it run off a generator instead of grid?
It does have a setting for starting a generator.
Hey so for your solar panels there no micro inverters?
No, there is an inverter inside the little building.
im just concerned about UL listing for California
Anybody know how to wire 2 PowerMr 5k solar inverters in parallel off grid? They told me they can run from sunlight only buut in the manual it shows an ac connection whenever it shows the inverters in parallel. I do have an existing solar setup running a 12v/ 5000watt inverter.
The small ones are not meant to be ran parallel. I am going to do a dual 5k system soon.
Do you know anything about whether it is possible to give electricity back to the grid with it, there are many who think it is possible depending on how you put it on the menu, I need an inverter that can be used on battery and solar plus give back to the grid when I do not use the power myself and there is no charging
This unit is not designed to give power back to the grid. There are a lot of rules and regulations for that kind of system.
If solar, grid, battery in that order
Thank you