TROUBLESHOOTING The LONE Reason My $300 Ford RANGER Still Won’t Start
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- Опубліковано 13 бер 2020
- I bought a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT for $300 after a friend had wrenched on it and couldn't get it running. We went through all the usual stuff the first day, now we're diving even deeper and verifying every inch truck. Compression tests, visual spark and fuel tests. Swapping the ignition control that tested bad didn't even save it. At this point the only things left are CPS, TPS, and the ECU.
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My 4cyl Ranger had a very similar issue and it was the EMERGENCY fuel cut off switch. The dealer told me ($700 later in 1998} that it was a very common problem. I replaced it and it worked lovely. It wasn’t so much it wasn’t giving fuel (ugh, how to explain), but telling the computer to stop after a short time. You “can” reset them a few times, but eventually it will need replacing.
I dunno... tossing pennies at dollars I guess!
he is getting fuel so its not the efcs
douglas armes Yeah-mine was too. But we replaced that as a last resort and TADAAAAA-It ran. Hit 250k mi in 2002 with no further challenges. I’m aware it doesn’t make proper sense-but it did solve the similar issue we had. At this point-it may be worth resetting for giggles!
@@douglasarmes8750 the enertia switch has more then 2 leads on it if the ECU signal wires are having issues then the enertia switch is a definet possible cause seen it happen on a cupple fords with various engine types
That would make sense. The engine ran on the spray just fine.
Agree, inertia switch.
The engine runs normally as long as you feed starting fluid into the intake. That means that it is NOT a crank position sensor. It is NOT a coil problem. It is NOT a problem with plugs or plug wires. But it *IS* a fuel problem. As soon as you bypass the normal fuel delivery system with the starting fluid, it runs.
You watched the injectors squirt sequentially. What you *didn't* do is verify that they were squirting at the proper times. Imagine what would happen if you connected the trigger wires to the incorrect injectors so they fired out of sequence. An occasional cylinder might fire because of fuel residue left in the combustion chamber. Hmmm... does that sound familiar?
Maybe the wiring is mis-connected. Or maybe there's a problem with the ECU sending the signals to the wrong injectors. But your problem almost certainly centers around those injectors.
This actually makes a lot of sense
100% Agree. What his fuel injector test doesn't take into account is the ignition switch change from start to run position. By spraying starting fluid he is bypassing whatever tells the injectors to squirt when the ignition switch is in the run position.
You beat me to it, I can't believe he forgot that it ran well on starting fluid, which really does narrow things down to fuel delivery.
I would have to disagree, unless it's a direct injection engine the injectors can fire whenever and it would still run!
Hell on the old Bosch systems they sprayed fuel continuously and those ran perfect!
My guess is that the injectors aren't spraying enough fuel, you can't really tell that just by looking at them while cranking the engine. Running lean will cause that weird dieseling it was doing as well.
@ Douglas...
You speak the language!!!!
If it doesn't sense airflow... What will happen??? It will shut itself down right?
*did you try turning it off and on again*
Sorry, I had to.
Justin W. But Justin! It’s not Microsoft Windows!!!! 😂
Hello IT?
Or unplug and plug it back in
😅
I had a ranger with the exact same issues i got it to run choked off with starting fluid and saw the extremely low back pressure on the exhaust... It ended up being a clogged cat
That makes sense. I had an old-ish LTD that was absolutely gutless. It turned out to be a melted cat.
That's what I was thinking, pull out the upstream o2 sensor and see if it makes any difference
I have actually seen that happen on several 4cyl rangers
Why would it run on starter fluid? And when it ran it flowed exhaust nicely out the tailpipe.
@@TheFracturedRooster no it did not flow nicely and I barely had it running in that state. It took two people with a circus of playing with the throttle and spraying starting fluid down the throat while I was inside and outside the vehicle looking for other symptoms. And I have no idea why starting fluid worked. Even though I checked for fuel pressure and injector spray just like he does in the video I think that the starting fluid is a lot more volatile and it made the combustion process a lot easier.
I love this episode. Great discussion and coverage.
There's no way that Ford could beat you JR, I look forward to you guys getting that thing running.
I had a 2000 Ranger that was doing exactly what this one is doing. We checked everything and I ended up taking it to a shop that found the crank position sensor clip was loose. As soon as he pushed it back on the truck fired up and I never had the issue again. This was the first thing that came to mind when I saw your first video on this truck.
Do you know where the crank position sensor clip is at. I'm having this exact problem .
@Young Modz On mine, it was at the bottom of the engine behind the Crank pulley, I believe. It's been 10+ years, but I believe there is a gear like piece behind the crank pulley, and the crank position sensor reads its rotation to tell the computer the position of the crank. What year Ranger or year, make, model are you working with?
@Ray Bell my ranger is a 94 xt. Exactly like the one in the video except its in green lol
check the cigarette lighter position sensor, it's always that dang CLPS...
😂😂😂 this thing has 4 cigarette lighters, might be troubleshooting for hours!
Back when every car came with em
if it was a BMW... it might just be a faulty cigarette lighter that keeps the engine from starting. everyone knows that you need perfectly functional cigarette lighters in order to use a motor vehicle safely.
Thank you for continuing to try this frustrating old truck
The only thing left to check is the brake fluid and tire air pressure. Oh, did you put summer air in the tires by mistake maybe?
Damb southern air... always forget about it. Blinker fluid too.
Hey man! First of all, I like your channel. You keep it real. Keep it up. My 98 Dakota (2.5L - 4 cyl. - 5 speed) started doing an intermittent stall when driving at random times. The last experience I had was it not starting. Same as your Ranger. Start, run for about a second and die. Replaced many of those electronics: TPS, ICM etc. Scanners would not clearly identify the problem. We turned to ECU. I have another truck, same year, drivetrain, everything (even the same color). I swapped the ECU (luckily no flashing needed). Runs just fine again, no problems. The bad ECU in my spare truck now has the exact same symptom. Starts for a second and dies. Looks like even a top shelf scanner could not detect and ECU that causes shutdown. I know you'll figure it out, or at least we enjoy watching you figure it out. Hope this helps! - DA
YOU can eliminate the exhaust being plugged by pulling an o2 ( upstream) or pull the cat connector, my ALLDATA says fuel pressure is between 35-40.
hey did this ranger have an after market alarm installed.
THIS would actually make the most sense.
Nope
@@anonymic79 Unless the alarm cuts off the fuel pump.
Yep, had this on a Peugeot estate - the key fob was damaged, it lost the pairing with the immobiliser, so would only run on easy start. Fixed the key for, re-paired it, started first attempt
Haha! Ask Hoovie about that one 😂😂
check the reference voltage circuit for your sensors......some run at 5 V...….ensure the circuit is not being pulled low due to component or wiring issue.
after 40 plus years turning wrenches the next thing i would is check the security system. Starting and dying is a feature of some systems. lock the truck with the key and unlock it. then start....or disconnect the system relay.
I have seen fords do that with a bad ignition switch on the secondary side
Andrew Allen you would have to test to find out but I’m sure he will keep filling the ranger full of China parts until it stays running
@@AndyEffertz I would first test the ignition module as they do this on fords.then the ignition switch
Andrew Allen yes testing is the only way to find the true problem without causing more problems than when you started
Collapsed catalytic converter? Had a Grand Am back in the day that had something similar.
Had a Volvo once that wouldn't do anything but try. Kinda the similar symptoms but they can start and run it on alternative fuel so that's out of the question.
I was thinking, disconnect the exhaust manifold and give it a try.
This is the problem! Clogged exhaust! Unhook from the cat forward and let her run! Cost $0 to test
Runs on starting fluid as mentioned so doubt it but its a free test so definitely do this.
apachelives
The starting fluid is MUCH more combustible than pump gas and requires less oxygen therefore less flow is required. My money is on clogged exhaust
1: It runs when you spray starting fluid in intake. This means to me that crank and cam sensors are ok, as well as ignition timing. 2: Put gauge on fuel rail. Does pressure stay up to spec while cranking AND when it fires? And rail pressure should only very slowly bleed down, or injectors are leaking 3: You may have to scope injector pulses. If they are staying on too long and spraying too much fuel, could be fouling out plugs.
Frustrated he left us with a cliffhanger video. He should not be allowed to go have fun until his work is done lol
Swap coil or spark plugs wires on intake and exhaust sides, this happened on my Nissan with similar set up. The truck would start for a brief moment than cut out.
I love these videos...look forward to the mystery solution.
Does it have a idle air control valve? I had a 99 grand marquis that would do exactly what the ranger is doing so i cleaned the IAC and that fixed it
Check timing belt, the cover is missing. Previous owner said it had been changed.
If tension is not applied in the right place, the belt WILL jump a tooth when the tensioner is released!!
I was just thinking this
A tooth or two off, she won’t run. Great minds think alike, they should check timing marks
@@kevinmcclure7551shit happend to me this summer lmfao !
Oh man! I was really hoping to find out what the problem was on the ranger! LOL Thanks for sharing hope we get better info next time! Take care and God bless you all!
I’m one of the first to comment so maybe I’ll be lucky enough for him to see this. 😂 Hey man just wanted to say I absolutely love your videos, the style of content is absolutely perfect and it balances education with entertainment spectacularly. The audio quality is fantastic and your buddies always crack me up. Keep going cause I check everyday for a new video.
I found this channel sometime last year. What I really like is that he does the work himself. He's up there with the likes of Ivan of Pine Hollow and Eric of South Main Auto.. also shout out to ScannerDanner, he's an EXPERT. Also Matt of Schrodinger's Box!! I admit I do like watching Scotty's videos. More just to hear his thoughts when people ask questions about issues they're having. But when I'm having my own issues, I head straight to ScannerDanner.
Danger Ranger is always a fitting name for a small Ford truck that you have no idea what will happen next with. 😂
Isn't that what the Goonzquad called the ranger?
The danger is when it decided to never start again
Heath Har yes, but it’s not exclusive to them or original to them. I heard danger ranger 7 years ago, but I’m sure it’s been around longer than that.
Check the cam timing. I had a buddy get an older 2.3 Ranger for dirt cheap because it didn't run. He went through the thing and found the timing belt had slipped 1 tooth. It had good compression, spark, and fuel, but the timing was just a little off.
Good luck, love the videos!
I bought an 87 Ranger for $400 that was sitting out in a cow pasture for about 4 years with a broken side rear window. I slapped the jumper cables on it, and it fired up the first crank. I drove it for a couple of years and sold it for a profit.
Ha ha ha! Shut up!😂😂😂
@WatchJRGo haven't heard you say anything about checking the camshaft sensor. Had a 2000 Jeep that the camshaft sensor went bad & it did the same thing as your Ranger would start then die.
179kevin I don’t think this old engine has a cam sensor, just a crank sensor,
I had a Ford ranger like 15 years ago do the same I had to clean the mass air sensor it finally started
He said he unplugged the mafs and that didn't fix it.
Your videos have actually given me information i can use i appreciate that
Keep on pushing! This is the ultimate challenge!
Time to call the Car Wizard?
They're local to him, they've collabed before... I second his idea. Plus I feel like it's wiring or ecu, Wizard's no joke a pro at figuring wiring out.
Car Wizard hates JR (shhhh its a secret to everybody)
@@jetjazz05 yes... Kansas were 45 miles away is "Local".
Ask Scotty Kilmer, and he'll say it's a money pit get rid of it.
He actually said Ford Rangers are good trucks.
Check for remains of a aftermarket alarm. Also it seems like it runs with the key in the start position. Could be a bad ignition switch. If you can kill power to the starter after it starts (pull fuse or small wire on the starter) see if it will continue to run with the key held in the start position.
I’d say that because when he disconnected the intake side ign coils and there was no change (it would die after a tiny bit of running), then the intake side ign coils should be an issue, because it needs both sides to run. (Just my guess though, feel free to correct me)
only exhaust side plugs should fire until truck is started
take a minute...save an hour..check the ground....check the power!
Yeah, check the ground strap to the engine.
Ran fine on the spray..
Ran perfectly on starter fluid. Its a fuel issue. probably an emergency fuel cut off or the injectors are not firing in the correct order.
Probably is Crank Position Sensor. If its aftermarket they are sometimes garbage.
Its runs on starting fluid so not crank sensor. If crank sensor was bad it wouldn't fire plugs or injectors.
Hey JR, I'm a 4 cylinder Ranger owner myself. They are known to have crappy connectors that corrode easily, so go through them with electrical cleaner and dielectric grease. My truck would sometimes accellerate by itself, or die when coming to a stop and having trouble starting back up. Ended up being corroded terminals at the TPS sensor. Otherwise, make sure your timing belt and marks are where they should be, and that the tensionner is doing its job. Good luck!!!
I had a car that came to me with the same problem, turned out to be the crank position sensor, the owner had wired it just as you described and it was jumping the signal at the splice. You may want to consider that.
Logic suggests it IS the fuel system. am I getting my videos confused, or didn't it start when you sprayed starter fluid in it?
This. Also check the com diode.
* pcm
i would like to see a video with a intake cleaner can spraying into the throttle body to see if the engine run good with a can spraying but all the video that i saw was start 1 sec and stall
the other stuff that i didnt see is to jump the on position on the ignition key switch because sometime the start position is good on the switch but the on position doesnt keep the contact need some wiring schema reading on there maybe
Same truck. Seemed to run like a champ for a while on the spray. Seems to be fuel starved... I know everything seems to be clean but, like you pointed out... it ran fine on the starter fluid.
@@vincentbigras1515At 12:39 of the first vid it runs for more than a second, about 5 seconds from one spray, and longer than any other time in either vid...
IAC Valve?
Try unplugging the map sensor. I’ve seen them get fouled/fail and do this. If its bad when you unplug it the pcm should revert to a backup table that will let it run, assuming its a bad sensor giving the pcm a false reading.
I had an explorer that ran like that. Did you do a smoke test on the vacuum lines? perhaps fresh Ignition coils? Maybe even jump (bypass) the roll-over emergency cut-off switch?
On this episode of watchjrgo I roll on a hoverboard
This is exactly why I converted my 86 2.3 ranger to a carburetor. Cost me like $150.
This runs the Mazda 2.3. Those are very different engines. The 1986 didn't use a distributor less coil pack, it also didn't run 8 plugs in it. So the conversion will cost a bit more.
Slayer John no it doesnt. The Mazda engine started in 2003. These are the 2.3 lima (pinto).
@@slayerjohn447 I believe up until 1998 the 2.3's can be converted to run a carburetor. I think that's the year they did away with the distributor hole.
The autolite 2100 definitely yields more power over the old EFI but also seems to use more fuel.
@@slayerjohn447 also, there's a video here on UA-cam where a feller converted an 8 plug head to run a carb, I think if you punch in "Ford efi delete" you'll find it.
@@fomocowboy I didn't say it couldn't be done. I said it would cost more then $150 to make it happen.
It reminds me of a Freightliner FL70 I worked on. Thing went to a handful of other shops to diagnose engine cutting out. Then eventually it would only run when you cranked it. Turned out to be a loose wire in the back of the fuse panel. And the engine coolant temperature sensor was sending different signals, so it wouldn’t light up the dash, but it would shut off the engine after a certain amount of time. Hope you figure it out soon.
This is fantastic content! Thanks JR! In know you will crack this one!
Why not double check the timing???
I guess because it ran well with starter fluid?
@@rnthiphop On Fords, if the crank or cam sensor isn't reading correctly, do Fords kill the spark or the fuel? OHHH just thought about it, what about the inertia sensor going bad.... hmmm I think I'll need pop corn for this saga lol.
Fords have impact switches for fuel pumps down by kick panels on driver or passenger side of vehicle.
I think it’s the impact switch too.
They've addressed that already
Checked good, very first thing I tried 🍻
@@WatchJRGo flux capacitor + 1.21 gigawatts = go back to when ford ran.
Inertia switch
Immediately after the thing starts, try holding the ignition switch back toward start just enough that you’re holding tension, but not engaging the starter. If you can catch it just right and get it to run, it’s a bad ignition switch. Saw this in a late 80s Thunderbird that had my entire shop stumped until one guy accidentally figured it out. We could run the car around as long as you didn’t let go of the key. Changed the switch and it cured it.
When I was a kid we had an Aerostar that started doing this exact thing. Dad replaced a bunch of stuff on it, no go. Finally they replaced some kind of module and that resolved it, it was not the ECU though. I wish I could remember what it was.
Its the flux capacitor
💯!
ignition control module! my buddies did the same thing but his was a v6
just replace it not expensive trust me!!
Yup exactly what my Jeep was doing and it was a $30 fix lol
he replaced it already 11:00
being a Ford man, owning a 90's ranger was one of my big regrets. I read the comments and yeah, ICM did weird things, after market security system was fun, vacuum line deterioration plugging problems... These trucks were great when they were new, but after a 100,00 kms - they suck. IT TAKES A TON OF SPARK unless you rebuild and have perfect compression. Scrapping it was a huge relief.
heard that after I commented. He might of got a bad one from the store .
I had a similar issue on my 98 boxster first thoughts was also bad fuel and crank sensor. Troubleshoot everything and when I removed intake to do starter fluid it started... turns out it started because there was no air running over the MAF sensor. So it wouldn't start due to a failed MAF. I also ran through the whole fuel system because it sat for a while too. Spent way to much time looking in the wrong direction
I definitely second checking the efcs. What was the fuel pressure at the rail for prime and after? Sounds like a drop or loss of pressure.
Fix that A/C GROUND !!!!
I had the same problem on a 1998 Rolls Canhardly and finally figured it was a bad muffler bearing.
David Pringle.
Or low washer fluid?
low blinker fluid
@@losthomas7589 the inspection place failed my truck for low washer fluid light being on on the dash... turns out rain-x is a conspiracy by the replacement washer fluid sensor industry to make us all buy new sensors.
You guys really been thru everything! I used to have one of these back in the days, inline 4, and since this is old school is has a separate coil for all cylinders. Mine had a coil resistor that was mounted on the inside of the (left?) fender (ab 2 inch wide, rubber conn). It is equivalent to the old resistors that was mounted on the side of the coil in cars from the 70s. When mine broke i had the same problem, it fired and stalled. Borrowed one from a friends car, and it ran again. Apparantly it changes the spark from start-spark to go-spark, so to speak. Might be something?
I know it is a long shot, but I had a car that wouldn't fire (or would stop running) if the ECU couldn't see an oil pressure reading. I also had an intermittent issue with crank position sensor where the torque of the engine twisting in the bay would cause a bad wire to briefly disconnect and kill the ignition. Might be worth a continuity test of those sort of cables to see if moving them disrupts the signal? Good luck!
Might check the Cts (coolant temp. Sensor)
G. S. Yes it would, because when you start a hot engine it uses less fuel,
Had a 5.0 do it to me randomly truck would just crank, foot to the floor it started, helped some random guy out on the trail with his Jeep, same story it wouldn’t restart, would just spuder I told him hold it wide open and if it starts your coolant sensor is bed, that was it it started than, turns out the 4.0 was just a cluster duck of different parts from different years so nothing worked as it should
Elephant in the room - as you have air, fuel and spark - exhaust !!!!! The cat or muffler(s) have collapsed or are heavily restricted
Its a fuel problem cause it ran on starting fluid
Nicholas Mackey due to the high octane and oxygen content it need less oxygen to burn than petrol (gas), They have proved it’s not fuel related
@@Mrflash222006 they havent proved it all they have proved was that the pump works fine amd the gas is probably old hense the reason why it wont burn properly
Nicholas Mackey watch the last vid they dropped the fuel, the rail is clean the injector’s are flowing and the FPR has been changed, if you watch it fire the engine spins backwards for a brief moment that shows excessive back pressure
It would still start and run at idle with a clogged cat or otherwise restricted exhaust system. Had a similar issue with another Ranger same engine, never figured it out, sent it to the crusher, not worth the headache. These trucks are a dime a dozen they're all over the place.
My dad had a similar issue with an old Toyota. He changed everything on the fuel and ignition side, and had a new ECU lined up only to find the ground wire to the ECU was bodged up and was causing an intermittent open. As soon as the starter shut off the ECU would freak out and kill the fuel pressure. Haltec also just did a vid on ground wires, so it might be something to look into.
Subbed Bc of the cheap cars keep them coming!!!!! I’ll watch all those
Ask the Ford Expert. Brian @ FordTechMakuloco.
Add some BFGs on there before you sell it!
Idk if this truck is worthy lol
@@swazi5 lol maybe not but a little fixed up would be satisfying. He has the money why not.
Any chance that the oil pack wiring has been mixed up, e.g., wiring for #1 is switched with #2?
I work with a guy who just went through this with his old Ranger. It was the TPS. Truck runs great now.
Its possessed, hire a priest :) Actually I'm in the clogged cat group.
You're gonna need an old Priest and a young Priest. ;)
And a Judas Priest??
Possibly coolant temp sensor. I know when they fail on a gm, the ecm thinks it is -34°, and adjusts the fuel air mixture to match.
Yeah, seems it could be a fuel/air issue - seems lean to me, but I know very little ^_^
Yep, had this problem on a 91 s10 of mine. Same symptoms as this ranger when it happened
Just a thought of random stuff, but could the exhaust be plugged?
I had to bypass the fuel pump switch to get home a few times, you may have voltage on both sides, but it seemed like it wasn't passing enough current
clogged cat???
Blake Medina
That was going to be my suggestion too.
I've been screaming at my computer the last two videos. You have a plugged catalytic converter. Just unhook the exhaust ahead of the cat, I about guarantee it will run fine.
That’s worth a shot! I’ll be home tomorrow and we’ll give it a try 🍻
I wondered the same
That makes 3.
If that is the problem why did it run when starter fluid was sprayed in to it?
@@harborcbs it takes less air to run on starter fluid so it will run just a tick longer before plugging up. A friend of mine got burnt on this a year or so ago on a Ford Exploder. First shop threw the parts cannon at it, timing chain, ignition parts, ecu, etc., and told the customer the engine was bad. My friend got it, swapped the engine and it still wouldn't run, we went through everything, just like these videos, nothing, it would start, run, die and wouldn't run again for a few hours. He unhooked the exhaust and it fired right up and ran great.
Have you tried shorting the ignition barrel, as in hot-wiring? I've had that problem before where the contacts in the barrel switch had worn.
It's good to see you fixing that Ranger. That little truck can be so useful.
Gotta get used to pushing fords
If not your not gonna get anywhere.
Could the two coil pscks be switched to where it's firing the exhaust instead of the intake? Maybe both packs fire at start-up? I had one of these, but mine was a 95 with OBD2.
I don’t know who you are, what your channel normally is about but I saw the $300 ranger video and I’m hella invested in the story of this ranger lol
Love the icm replacement got my 88 ranger running and that went bad a couple days after
It sounds like the injectors are shutting down when you let off the key.
Start-run-stall conditions are commonly caused by security lockout modes on newer cars but not as common on older model years like 1993. Might still be worth looking into though. Some vehicles have key transponders with a tiny battery and that battery goes dead.
Love it! Nice job man
@ jr
I'm reading comments about inertia switch, I would check there. My pops dealt with fords before they got to the dealership (he drove them off train cars, they would get jarred during transit sometimes and trip that inertia switch), that was the first thing they'd check when car wouldn't start or would momentarily run. Also way back I had some piece of crap running vehicle, think it was my jeep cj5. Anyways I had a similar issue that turned out to be the key switch. When turned to the start position it would start but when the key went back to the run position it would die. Failed key switch was cutting the power to ignition coil in the run position. Good luck man, hope it turns out simple but no matter what, this ranger is gonna teach you something. Word brother.
Yessir keep up good work 💯💪🏾
Since you checked the initial ignition timing using the crank pulley as the reference point, could the ignition timing be 360 degrees off? If ignition distributor has ever been removed, it could have been put back in place 180 degrees off (since it rotates at half crank speed). Since all of the cylinders are affected, the spark plugs could be firing at the end of the exhaust stoke instead of at the end of the compression stroke.
Crank and Cam position sensors are reluctance based, hall effect sensors. Alteration to the wiring in those circuits can increase or decrease set resistance over the wires, and cause bad reading to ECM. Not as big an issue on more robust obd2 setups, but may be pissing off the obd2 network on the ranger.
Years ago an elderly lady friend of mine had a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When the battery was disconnected, and reconnected the alarm would come on. It did not beep like crazy when it happened, but the headlights kept blinking. When you would start the engine with the alarm on in it acted the same way as this Ranger does. Fires, and dies. Since there was no working remotes to shut off the alarm the only way it could be done is putting the key in the drivers door lock, and turning.
How's the vacuum on the truck? Does it have a leak somewhere that could cause the issue? The FPR seemed to work better with the vacuum disconnected in the last video. Also maybe check that the idle air control valve is working. Cause if it isn't it can cause a super rich/lean condition which could be why it keeps stalling out. Thinking about it now, maybe the O2 sensors on that truck are bad too. As the ECM does use it to help adjust the mixture. Trying unplugging it. My '94 set a code for it after 3-5 minutes of not having one.
I think it’s an old EEC 4 system based on your description. Pin 50 to the ecu is connected DIRECTLY to the negative battery cable. From my experience from years ago on those things, check it!
I had a similar problem on a Alero. It was also throwing a a/c code. Unplugged the compressor and it fired right up. The ECU wouldn't let run because of the a/c fault. It's worth a try.
The plot thickens!! In my (definitely non professional) opinion, it IS a fuel issue, but a fuel issue caused by the computer. In other words, you clearly checked that all the fuel components are physically okay, but when you spray starting fluid it runs! The fuel is cutting out right after it starts. My money is on some kind of anti theft or emergency fuel cut out or something like that. Looking forward to seeing what's next!
I had a 93 ranger with the 4.0 v6 way back in the day that did the same thing. turned out when I changed the battery and battery clamps out when I installed my stereo system I didn't get one of the ground wires connected very well. so you might look at the ground wires on the battery and make sure they are all good because they kind of spider out. I think mine had one big one and 2 or 3 little ones.
I would check the idle air control valve (IAC) either replace or clean it, considering the age and the issues I would replace it myself. After hearing the list of what has been done I'm leaning towards the IAC being the main issue, they will give off the surging idle/stall and false throttle position readings as well as very hard starts. I had an iron duke (I know different engine) that had the same kind of issues, after changing everything under the sun that I could think of I changed the IAC and the stupid thing fired up. The other reason I'm leaning to the IAC is that it ran fine on the brake cleaner which is atomized by the can (IE more air).
Can you try pulling the starter wire off as soon as it fires and keep holding the key in the start position to see if it keeps running? Reminds me of the old Chrysler vehicles from the 70's when the resister would fail.
Friend had similar problem with a newer Ranger (OBD2). It would randomly not start. Thought it might of been factory anti-theft system. Turned out it was a bad gauge cluster. ECU needs the cluster, and it had some bad solder joints.
Looks like the timing belt was replaced. Did they get the time of when they replaced it?
I hope you continue this project. I'm even going watch all the ads no skipping to see you figure this 1 out
Gabe commented on the fuel condition of the engine on start which might be an astute observation. Did he check the idle air control valve? The symptoms being described might well indicate that once the ECU transitions from pre-set crank to reading airflow it is smothering the engine. 🤔
Does it have an alarm system? The jeeps from the 90’s had a problem with the factory security system not letting them start my Jeep had this issue and did the same thing as your truck