A drill works good for twisting wires together. Unspool enough of each wire. You don’t have to cut them yet off the spools. Clamp all the wires to a workbench at the spool end close together using a vise or a squeeze clamp. Take the free ends of the wires and put them in the drill chuck. Run the drill slowly and the wires will twist together very nicely.
I am very new to Model Railways (although I am Nearly 60), and am grateful for videos like yours, I have watched a few now of yours, as well as other Modellers, and just wanted to say that I find yours easier to follow than some others. Thank you very much.
Thanks Colin. Glad you found it helpful. I try to explain everything down at a level that I understand. I’m fairly new into the hobby too and spent a little time deciphering some other instructional video and blogs
This is perfect thanks. I'm just about to start laying a garden railway and was looking for wiring techniques that didn't rely on fish plates, this perfect.
Good job - enjoyed your video! Had a quick look on your website and went for skips, pallets, oil drums and cabinets! Looking forward to seeing how your layout develops!
When attaching your droppers to the terminal tags, I would suggest... a) make a hook a the end of the dropper wire; b) insert the dropper wire through the hole in the terminal tag from the back (opposite to how you show it in the video); and c) solder the dropper to the front of the terminal tag The benefits would be... a) hooking the dropper wire through the hole will prevent it from falling out while you're getting the soldering iron ready; b) by inserting the dropper wire from the back and soldering to the front, you have a much larger surface area to which to solder.
Hi Paul. You’re correct. I’m aware that I haven’t shown that. I should have mentioned that until I settled in a new controller I’ve just left pair of trailing bus wires that loop to the top of the layout. No holes. I’m looking at handset type controllers in which case the power unit will be below the baseboard, so again no need for any holes in the baseboard
@@BuntersYard Personally, I went with the Digitrax Evolution Xpress starter set from Coastal DCC @ £360 (this was last August, so don't know what the cheapest price would be today).
Looks easy except have you tried soldering upside down with only a gap of 15” to get into? For an entire sixty foot layout that you can’t tip the boards up as it’s a shelf system?
Thanks for the informative video. I'd be interested to know what tool you used to strip the wire to solder to the holders. I'm looking forward to learning more in future videos.
Hi. Thanks for watching. The wire strippers are from Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08RD71M2T?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details I've added the link in the description also.
When I built a model railway many years ago I used self adhesive copper tape as bus wires - especially for lights - as it meant I could solder anywhere without worring about stripping the insulation on the bus wires
Thanks for the advice. So - for example - If i have 3 train loops do I need a separate bus wire for each ? or could i run one bus wire underneath the centre loop and drop wires from each 3 loops to the single bus wire?
Yes you can use the same bus wire for all of the loops. There is a debate about whether you should connect the ends of the bus wire to form a complete loop, but I’ll let others fight that one out! 😂
This was a new way of connecting the droppers to the bus wire, for me. Thank you for that! But, can I ask; if you are using two separate lengths of bus wires, how are they both connected to the controller? Thanks for any advice - I'm sure I'm missing something fairly basic.
So both rails on a track are separated, one rail has the red wire while the other has a black wire. Then both of those wires connect to the bus wires, same thing, red to red, black to black, that bus wire eventually connects to the DCC booster/command station via the 2 screw ports made for power to the layout. One wire to one connection, the other wire to the other connection. Keep in mind, both wires have to be connected the same way on each booster if there will be more than 1 booster on a layout.
Thanks for the question. Each bus wire goes into the back of the controller - red to red, and black to black. So then all of the red wires, including the droppers become positive (in my case), and all the black will be negative.
A drill works good for twisting wires together. Unspool enough of each wire. You don’t have to cut them yet off the spools. Clamp all the wires to a workbench at the spool end close together using a vise or a squeeze clamp. Take the free ends of the wires and put them in the drill chuck. Run the drill slowly and the wires will twist together very nicely.
I am very new to Model Railways (although I am Nearly 60), and am grateful for videos like yours, I have watched a few now of yours, as well as other Modellers, and just wanted to say that I find yours easier to follow than some others. Thank you very much.
Thanks Colin. Glad you found it helpful. I try to explain everything down at a level that I understand. I’m fairly new into the hobby too and spent a little time deciphering some other instructional video and blogs
Nice logical, neat and tidy approach.
Plus those tags make a nice job!
Thank you for sharing.
Glad you like them!
Really enjoyed this - very helpful and a good solution.
Glad it was helpful!
Yes is very easy as long as you follow the sample rules the same colour code
This is perfect thanks. I'm just about to start laying a garden railway and was looking for wiring techniques that didn't rely on fish plates, this perfect.
Glad it was helpful!
Love your videos - Very informative. I like your approach.
Thank you. Very nice if you to say 👍🏼
Nice and clear information.
Glad it was helpful!
Good job - enjoyed your video! Had a quick look on your website and went for skips, pallets, oil drums and cabinets! Looking forward to seeing how your layout develops!
thank you. I've just seen your order and are about to make a start on your skips now.
Looks fantastic, I only nailed my track no glue , going to subscribe your channel
This video was a life saver thank you great job!!!!!
Glad it helped!
Nice neat job 👍🏻
Thank you
When attaching your droppers to the terminal tags, I would suggest...
a) make a hook a the end of the dropper wire;
b) insert the dropper wire through the hole in the terminal tag from the back (opposite to how you show it in the video); and
c) solder the dropper to the front of the terminal tag
The benefits would be...
a) hooking the dropper wire through the hole will prevent it from falling out while you're getting the soldering iron ready;
b) by inserting the dropper wire from the back and soldering to the front, you have a much larger surface area to which to solder.
Thank you. Some good pointers there
Great video easily followed also well done
Glad it helped
Hi. Something UA-camrs never seem to show is how bus wires enter the baseboard from the controller!
Hi Paul. You’re correct. I’m aware that I haven’t shown that. I should have mentioned that until I settled in a new controller I’ve just left pair of trailing bus wires that loop to the top of the layout. No holes. I’m looking at handset type controllers in which case the power unit will be below the baseboard, so again no need for any holes in the baseboard
@@BuntersYard Personally, I went with the Digitrax Evolution Xpress starter set from Coastal DCC @ £360 (this was last August, so don't know what the cheapest price would be today).
Thanks. I’ll give that a look.
Thanks a year on still useful Cheers Chris
Glad to help
Looks easy except have you tried soldering upside down with only a gap of 15” to get into? For an entire sixty foot layout that you can’t tip the boards up as it’s a shelf system?
Yes you’re right. It’s not easy and I can appreciate the difficulty
Hi what is the name of you wire cutters / strippers ? I am very impressed .
Thanks for the informative video. I'd be interested to know what tool you used to strip the wire to solder to the holders. I'm looking forward to learning more in future videos.
Hi. Thanks for watching. The wire strippers are from Amazon:
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08RD71M2T?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
I've added the link in the description also.
Nice new video .Like it.
Thank you for joining us 👍🏼
When I built a model railway many years ago I used self adhesive copper tape as bus wires - especially for lights - as it meant I could solder anywhere without worring about stripping the insulation on the bus wires
Great suggestion. I'll check that out
Cool job!:)
Thank you
Thanks for the info. Nice website too. I liked and subbed to the channel
Thanks for the sub!
@@BuntersYard you’re welcome. Keep up the good work
Thanks for the advice. So - for example - If i have 3 train loops do I need a separate bus wire for each ? or could i run one bus wire underneath the centre loop and drop wires from each 3 loops to the single bus wire?
Yes you can use the same bus wire for all of the loops. There is a debate about whether you should connect the ends of the bus wire to form a complete loop, but I’ll let others fight that one out! 😂
@@BuntersYard what's your opinion on that mater i really don't know would i make a ring connection for bus wire or have ends lose
Interesting, video but the sound quality of the film was poor you do not need back ground music. Where did you buy the connectors from.
Possibly on this video the back ground music was n't needed.
The connectors are from DCC concepts
I also have a model railway in nsw Australia ,would be interesting if related ?
Hi Ron.
Bunters Yard is named after a street that i used to live in, not my name unfortunately, But thanks for tuning in!
This was a new way of connecting the droppers to the bus wire, for me. Thank you for that! But, can I ask; if you are using two separate lengths of bus wires, how are they both connected to the controller? Thanks for any advice - I'm sure I'm missing something fairly basic.
So both rails on a track are separated, one rail has the red wire while the other has a black wire. Then both of those wires connect to the bus wires, same thing, red to red, black to black, that bus wire eventually connects to the DCC booster/command station via the 2 screw ports made for power to the layout. One wire to one connection, the other wire to the other connection. Keep in mind, both wires have to be connected the same way on each booster if there will be more than 1 booster on a layout.
Thanks for the question. Each bus wire goes into the back of the controller - red to red, and black to black. So then all of the red wires, including the droppers become positive (in my case), and all the black will be negative.
Gas soldiering irons are the future DB.
Your probably right mate!
Great Choice on the Railroad, but Terrible choice on the T-Shirt.
Ah fashion has never been my strong point ;)
Why two bus wires? Why not one in the middle and add the droppers to it