Many thanks. I watched to see how you constructed your jig - this is very nicely done, so I'm definitely going to copy that. In my first few attempts with no jig I struggled to get the cut the vertical, and the idea of using the Dremel drill extension link is very handy, so I will definitely get one of these. Some other really great tips in this video as well, particularly the checklist idea, so thanks for sharing!
You are using the same re-wiring technique I'm using on my N scale, Peco Code 55 Electrofrog turnouts. I really like your use of a jig. I destroyed one turnout with my Dremel tool before I bought a jeweler's saw. The saw works well but it is more of a hassle than your jig process. I'm going to make a jig and use it on my SL-E383F scissors crossing before I install it. It's too expensive to ruin with the slip of a blade.
Excellent explanation ... I almost understood all of it ;-) More seriously, this is really well explained in a not too long video. Greetings from Belgium.
Really good mate, thanks. This has really explained a lot of things that I wasn't sure about. I am using DC and I still switch to poliarity to the frog. Still relevant. I also use slide switches to throw the points, (and switch the polarity) and so I don't need to remove the spring. But this isn't about me. Really top video. Thanks for the time you take. 5.2k subscribers isn't enough for your effort and skill set. 👍
Nice video. I have also modified Peco N Gauge Curved Setrack points like this to remove blade contact problems. Setrack curved points are Radius 2 and so they enable longer sidings on your layout by starting the siding on the curve rather than on the straight and Radius 2 is better for smaller layouts as the Electrofrog curved points need much larger radius curves to work. But I concur with your comments to use Unifrog if possible. It is a pity that the N Gauge Unifrog range is so limited and Peco aren't showing any further N Gauge Unifrog development at this stage (2024). Why not send Peco Technical Dept an email asking them to bring out Medium radius Unifrog Curved Points? The more of us that email, the better the chance that they will see that there IS a market in N Gauge and will develop further, rather than put all their development into OO Gauge. K
Really excellent presentation, explanation and demonstration of the necessary changes. I have a substantial number of Electrofrog turnouts that will need modification so thanks for this! BTW I also have a very large number of Insulfrog turnouts that I'll need on my new DCC layout so I'm hoping you'll produce a similar video for Insulfrog (or maybe just explain any differences from this video)?
As to spring removal, they do not need to be removed on unifrog or modified electrofrogs. The frog is independent. On unmodefied electrofrog turnouts the juicer can change the polarity before the blade moves off of stock rail causing a short.
Thanks for this comment, I meant to reply earlier! Another inconvenience that I didn't anticipate - we tend to push rolling stock around to test track connections prior to powering. Floating points makes this difficult, we're forever propping the points open or closed.
Many thanks. I watched to see how you constructed your jig - this is very nicely done, so I'm definitely going to copy that. In my first few attempts with no jig I struggled to get the cut the vertical, and the idea of using the Dremel drill extension link is very handy, so I will definitely get one of these. Some other really great tips in this video as well, particularly the checklist idea, so thanks for sharing!
You are using the same re-wiring technique I'm using on my N scale, Peco Code 55 Electrofrog turnouts. I really like your use of a jig. I destroyed one turnout with my Dremel tool before I bought a jeweler's saw. The saw works well but it is more of a hassle than your jig process. I'm going to make a jig and use it on my SL-E383F scissors crossing before I install it. It's too expensive to ruin with the slip of a blade.
It sure is easy to nick tracks with the Dremel, I've hit a few! Thanks for watching.
Excellent explanation ... I almost understood all of it ;-)
More seriously, this is really well explained in a not too long video.
Greetings from Belgium.
Really good mate, thanks. This has really explained a lot of things that I wasn't sure about. I am using DC and I still switch to poliarity to the frog. Still relevant. I also use slide switches to throw the points, (and switch the polarity) and so I don't need to remove the spring. But this isn't about me. Really top video. Thanks for the time you take. 5.2k subscribers isn't enough for your effort and skill set. 👍
Thanks mate, appreciate your feedback.
Nice video. I have also modified Peco N Gauge Curved Setrack points like this to remove blade contact problems. Setrack curved points are Radius 2 and so they enable longer sidings on your layout by starting the siding on the curve rather than on the straight and Radius 2 is better for smaller layouts as the Electrofrog curved points need much larger radius curves to work. But I concur with your comments to use Unifrog if possible. It is a pity that the N Gauge Unifrog range is so limited and Peco aren't showing any further N Gauge Unifrog development at this stage (2024). Why not send Peco Technical Dept an email asking them to bring out Medium radius Unifrog Curved Points? The more of us that email, the better the chance that they will see that there IS a market in N Gauge and will develop further, rather than put all their development into OO Gauge. K
Really excellent presentation, explanation and demonstration of the necessary changes. I have a substantial number of Electrofrog turnouts that will need modification so thanks for this! BTW I also have a very large number of Insulfrog turnouts that I'll need on my new DCC layout so I'm hoping you'll produce a similar video for Insulfrog (or maybe just explain any differences from this video)?
Great to hear it helped. There must be quite a few people out there sitting on a collection of electrofrogs and insulfrogs!
As to spring removal, they do not need to be removed on unifrog or modified electrofrogs. The frog is independent. On unmodefied electrofrog turnouts the juicer can change the polarity before the blade moves off of stock rail causing a short.
Thanks for this comment, I meant to reply earlier! Another inconvenience that I didn't anticipate - we tend to push rolling stock around to test track connections prior to powering. Floating points makes this difficult, we're forever propping the points open or closed.
very good thank you mate
Nice.