I dont ever comment on videos but you are just the best at them so I feel like I need to give you kudos. This, video as well as the others you make, are so informative and clear. I love how detailed you are in regards to the bolt sizes, fluid types, and steps. You go the extra mile on your videos. I just replaced my steering gear box and shaft. I must be responsible for at least 1k of your 28k views on this video lol. It was a huge success thanks to you. My only hiccup was my outflow pipe got stripped. I ended up calling Redhead and they gave me the thread sizes. I got the tap and die and it went in great especially when I pulled the metal pipe off the mount and angled the threads just so. Thread sizes: Small Inlet: 1/2" x 20 Larger Return: 5/8" x 18 Your great work is noted and appreciated. Keep making them!
@@LethalityKing I’m not entirely sure if the red head unit came in with a small cross thread or I was too forceful with the pipe…. The gentleman at redhead said they hook each one up and test them for shipping them out. So it was probably me lol. Once I got a tap and die on Amazon, cleaned up both the pipe thread (at this point they were in really bad shape) and the receiving part of the gear box, and bam! Went in. I’d just be very very careful and go slow. Make sure you are perfectly perpendicular to the unit. After at least like 2 revolutions by hand then you can use a wrench.
@@davidmcdonnell9183 haha smart. I do that also like when I spent 30 mins trying to hook up my gas dryer only to realize that I needed a diff fitting smh just glad I didnt cross thread that. So do you feel that this box fixed the play and whining noise? My thoughts are to change this, Then the shaft (at some point) and then maybe doing the sagenal conversion for the steering pump.
Two weeks later after seeing this, and... Ladies and Gentlemen, I cannot stress this enough... If you miss tight steering and smooth responses, get these two mods!! No, I do not work for either of them, nor do I work for a supplier or retailer of any sort... But you gotta trust me, the Redhead steering gear box and the Borgeson steering shaft are the best money I've ever put into a used vehicle, hands down!! I don't have enough words to express how satisfied I am!! Oh, my word!! I took 2 test drives this evening and I cannot get over how much my 1991 model steers like it's a 2023 model!!! Absolutely magnificent!!
I just bought my redhead, and the new steering shaft.. I’ve watched this video and the steering shaft video 5 times now to get familiar with the install, appreciate the videos! Definitely a huge help!
You're a NATURAL for making videos like this. Your voice is fantastic and you calm demeanor makes the entire process and video very pleasant. Thank you sir! New sub for sure!
This install cures the steering play by about 90%, the rest (assuming your ball joints and tie rods are good) will require the steering shaft replacement.
I put one in my 92 f150 with the borgeson steering shaft, love the combo, if you use a borgeson, get the rag joint and your steering will be smooth as butter.
I just did this replacement today. I changed the lines too and still have a leak at the pump but I think it needs an O-ring to seal it. Anyway, as far as the axle / differential interfering with getting an impact gun on the puller, I got everything disconnected and then removed the steering shaft and then removed the rear and bottom mounting bold for the steering box and loosened the upper/forward bolt enough to allow the box to swing forward a little bit and was able to pivot the whole assembly enough to get my impact gun straight on the puller and it was able to pull the pitman arm off at that point. Was very easy doing it that way.
Right. Keep the core and rebuild it. That's what I would do. Great course here. Thanks for the gearbox info. I've got over 300,000 on mine and she's way overdue.
I've always adjusted the box to tighten it up. Loosen the nut, run the allen shaft on down about a half turn at a time, tighten the nut, check for slop. Don't go too tight or it could bind.
Great video. I never knew about Redhead gear boxes till I saw your video. I "d add a comment to make this job easier, separate the pitman arm from the drag link and remove the gear box with it on. Its much easier to get it off with the box in a vice. Mine was stuck so I used a pitman arm puller with a five point socket, breaker bar, heat and a hammer , it came right off
For what it's worth, there is discussions on the FullSizeBronco forums about redtop, bluetop, and motorcraft remans. Blue and red machine the worn housings and add bearings, but motorcraft replaces the housing with a new one at oe spec. So they both solve the issue in different ways
Love these videos so much! I bought a 1986 Ford Bronco about 1 years ago ago. Ever since I’ve owned it I always noticed the wine from my power steering pump but just thought it was because it’s old. I just barely refilled my Bronco with power steering fluid. Blew my mind when you said not to use that. I’m getting new headers here soon and then this will be my next upgrade. Thanks again for the amazing videos.
thats so nice to see when your working on a truck that is definitely NOT a Michigan vehicle (salt on roads in winter) and your power steering lines are NOT rusted to their screw on parts...like mine. trying to use a torch, penetrating oil, and wiggle back and forth repeatedly but not sure I can save the hoses.
You may be better off replacing the lines/hoses anyway. The last thing you want is a leak after a job like this. You can get good quality parts from rock auto.
@@TheFixTech thanks and my post was more a jest at myself and dealing with the Michigan vehicles I do. But as I am patient and persistent the first one, return line, broke free 45min in, then the other 2 hrs after and was about to give up on it. Half a can of WD40, twisting, then a propane torch, twist back and forth again, and plenty of patience finally did the job. And the ends were still good to. Thanks for the video, watching helped me figure this out as it's my first F150...I am used to just dealing with my Ranger
Thanks for a great instructional video... I am in the process of buying a 1990 ford bronco 5.0 .... 302 v8 and the guy said the steering gear needs replaced. So this will help . btw just subscribed
I got one from AutoZone in '21 and it was as tight as the old one. Reason I replaced was the old one blew out it's seals after 36 years and it was easier to replace due to being on the road. I had the tools so I changed it right there in the AutoZone parking lot. It was on an 85 Econoline so it was easier than trucks.
If you are installing by yourself on a lifted vehicle it's really hard to hold the box in place while threading that first bolt. Put a stud on the top and push it through to hold it up and then put the other two bolts in, remove the stud and put the last bolt in.
Do you recall what size pitman arm puller you bought? I have an 89 Bronco and definitely going to make some of these upgrades that you're showing. Thanks for the great videos and hopefully you keep adding more.
Thanks for making all these videos, I already used a few of them to replace the suspension and brakes on my 89 F150. Quick question, do you happen to know the socket size you used for the pitman arm nut?
Great video which inspired me to do the box, shaft and ps pump to Saginaw style. I just bolted up the box, installed the Borgeson shaft. Struggling to get the pitman arm lined up and on the box. Do the wheels need to be off the ground? I can’t move it into position :(
Great video, I have a question about the box, I own 70s ford truck and I been wanting upgrades the power steering box, do you know if 6.0 steering box fits 77 Ford?
The 6.0 ford box will not be a direct fit, but you can modify the 1977 chassis to accept figment. You can also use a universal borgeson steering shaft to custom fit the box to steering column. Check with RedHead and Borgeson as they may have other upgrade options for your build.
What year? 87-1992 had rear wheel abs only. The usual cause for an abs light on those year models is simple, the master cylinder has an abs sensor built in and would need to be inspected, check the wiring to the master cylinder. Also check the sensor on top of the rear diff. If 1993-1996 it could be wiring, relay, fuse, wheel sensors or the abs pump itself.
Any difference from the redhead and blue top steering boxes - just was recommended to me the blue top was wondering if you know by chance? Thanks for video!
I’ve heard of the blue top, I personally chose the redhead since they use all new internals (nothing reman). They machine all the metal components in house. If blue top does the same then I would say they are just as good. I am happy with my redhead so far.
@@TheFixTechredheads are great and all, and can be a hell of a lotta fun! Just don’t jinx yourself, if a redhead’s got a chance to give you a problem you’re likely to be up that creek! 😂
Did you not have to replace the o-rings when reconnecting the lines back to the steering box? Just got a redhead box myself and it came with replacement o-rings, however can't figure out where they go. Connectors look the same as in your video, any insight you may share will be appreciated.
It’s one of the best upgrade/repairs you can do for these trucks. Actually being able to control these trucks make them more fun to drive. If you still have the original steering shaft be sure to inspect for any play and replace if needed.
Use the puller. Apply some force. Use a proper ball peen hammer and hit the end of the pitman arm. In an upward fashion. And walk it. The puller gets re tightened after each series off hammer blows. Take up to an hour. Just be patient. (For the guy having a hard time. Not the guy in the video.) Ball peen hammers are for a reason.
It will only correct the problem 90% temporarily until it prematurely wears out like every other steering component. Ford four-wheel drives of that era have independent front suspension in the main Kingpin wears out which causes slop. That causes excessive stress on the steering box and other joints. Unless the main problem is fixed all the other fixes will just wear out in a few months and it'll be right back where you started from. If you don't believe me have someone get in your truck and gently apply the brake while shifting from forward to reverse. Observe the movement of the wheels toeing Inward and towing outward. You will never fix the loose steering without fixing that first.
Good info, yes if you have a Dana 60 axle this will be the case up to 1991 model year. F150 and bronco 4wd have Dana 44 and have ball joints (no kingpin). F250 have either Dana 50 or 60 and they went to ball joint in 1988 or 1991 respectively. And if you have a 2wd then you will have ball joint. The kingpin is extremely hard to rebuild properly, but well worth it as you’ve said it can cure loose steering and the well know issue of wobble.
@@dragonrider9051 All 2wd models will have ball joints. If your ball joints are good a new box, shaft and tie rods/drag link should cure the loose steering.
@@TheFixTech I'm about to find out, I have done tie rods trans mounts, I have new ball joint, radius arm bushings, motor mounts, and looking to either go red head or blue top not sure yet
It has been a year now. How is the steering box coming along? Any problems? I just installed this red head. The play is worst than before. The Cardone I had was better.
I love my redhead, it is still sharp. I have it on two trucks installed around same time. I have a follow up video urging an install of a new steering shaft for complete control. I used a new borgeson steering shaft, they are solid. Check your steering shaft and coupler for wear. Redhead has good customer service if there are any defects with yours they should take care of it. Also check your tie rod ends and drag link.
@@TheFixTech Thnx for the reply. I had already done the borgeson upgrade before doing the gear box. Took it to the alignment shop and they are telling the gear box is the problem. The steering randomly pulls to the left and right when driving. Was not doing this before doing the swap.
If the box feels real tight (almost too sensitive) then that is what mine was like in the beginning. I called it “dancing” but assumed the gears inside the box where new and needed to be broken in. That was indeed the case for me, after about 1,000 miles it settled and has been perfect ever since. I didn’t check with or call RedHead and can’t say for sure that is the case for you. If you have any doubts please contact RedHead.
@@TheFixTech Thnx for the reply again. You're awesome. Something does not feel right. I feel like there is more slop than there was before. I will be doing the bleeding process again on a hoist this weekend.
No, the adjuster screw should not be tampered with. It is set by the factory. It is possible to rebuild the unit and install new seals, but for complete tightness in steering some key metal components need to be replaced. Rebuild kits do not come with these components. Companies like redhead, manufacture their own metal components.
I'm rebuilding my core with the basic kit you'll find at most parts houses. The kit includes bearings, seals, and snap rings - all made out of recycled shopping carts from China. I'll keep the rebuilt core as a spare. The heavy components like the worm and sector gears, they machine in house at red/blue top. I've looked a bit, and can't find those new anywhere.
How well does your steering box return to center by itself? I installed a redhead box in my F250 in about 2014 and from the 10 o clock to 2 o clock position it never really has returned to center very well. It drove really good the first several years but it's slowly degraded since. If I go around a corner and let go of the wheel it returns to center until it gets to either 10 or 2 o clock positions then I have to finish centering myself. I've tried adjusting the box preload and it didn't change much. I've got about 18k miles on mine and it's getting loose and seems like it's starting to get sticky feeling, the exact same thing the box it replaced did, except that one had about 150k miles or so on it, also a reman. Everything steering wise is new on mine, new king pins, tie rods, radius and I beam bushings, borgeson steering shaft, u joint in tilt steering is good. Drives horribly and I'm pretty sure it's the steering box.
@@mrnuttle Could be, it is twin I beam so you never know. I can't remember what the caster was last time I had the alignment checked but it was within spec.
The line may have to be bent/adjust as to ensure it fits exactly straight into the new box. Check the threads on the line and box, you may have to clean up the threads with a tap/die set.
I replaced the power steering gear box on my 95 f150 . After the new one was installed it didn’t work. I drove it around for a week with no power steering and all of a sudden it started working. I guess I wasn’t patient enough when working steering wheel left to right to bleed the air out.
.. for the price of a puller you can usually buy a New Pitman Arm, which is what I did on my Econoline .. from a Chevrolet Dealership, because it was an AC Delco Part .. 🧰👨🔧✋💯
I dont ever comment on videos but you are just the best at them so I feel like I need to give you kudos. This, video as well as the others you make, are so informative and clear. I love how detailed you are in regards to the bolt sizes, fluid types, and steps. You go the extra mile on your videos.
I just replaced my steering gear box and shaft. I must be responsible for at least 1k of your 28k views on this video lol. It was a huge success thanks to you. My only hiccup was my outflow pipe got stripped. I ended up calling Redhead and they gave me the thread sizes. I got the tap and die and it went in great especially when I pulled the metal pipe off the mount and angled the threads just so.
Thread sizes:
Small Inlet: 1/2" x 20
Larger Return: 5/8" x 18
Your great work is noted and appreciated. Keep making them!
Thank you, much appreciated.
How did you strip the outflow pipe? my intention is to replace mine soon and possible also the Steering Shaft.
@@LethalityKing I’m not entirely sure if the red head unit came in with a small cross thread or I was too forceful with the pipe…. The gentleman at redhead said they hook each one up and test them for shipping them out. So it was probably me lol.
Once I got a tap and die on Amazon, cleaned up both the pipe thread (at this point they were in really bad shape) and the receiving part of the gear box, and bam! Went in. I’d just be very very careful and go slow. Make sure you are perfectly perpendicular to the unit. After at least like 2 revolutions by hand then you can use a wrench.
@@davidmcdonnell9183 haha smart. I do that also like when I spent 30 mins trying to hook up my gas dryer only to realize that I needed a diff fitting smh just glad I didnt cross thread that. So do you feel that this box fixed the play and whining noise? My thoughts are to change this, Then the shaft (at some point) and then maybe doing the sagenal conversion for the steering pump.
Two weeks later after seeing this, and...
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I cannot stress this enough... If you miss tight steering and smooth responses, get these two mods!!
No, I do not work for either of them, nor do I work for a supplier or retailer of any sort... But you gotta trust me, the Redhead steering gear box and the Borgeson steering shaft are the best money I've ever put into a used vehicle, hands down!!
I don't have enough words to express how satisfied I am!! Oh, my word!! I took 2 test drives this evening and I cannot get over how much my 1991 model steers like it's a 2023 model!!!
Absolutely magnificent!!
I just bought my redhead, and the new steering shaft.. I’ve watched this video and the steering shaft video 5 times now to get familiar with the install, appreciate the videos! Definitely a huge help!
You're a NATURAL for making videos like this. Your voice is fantastic and you calm demeanor makes the entire process and video very pleasant. Thank you sir! New sub for sure!
Thank you.
I completely agree! I'd be swearing a lot 🤣 Doesn't make for such calm videos
My son and I just bought an 89 f150. This might be the first upgrade we try. Thanks for the awesome video!
Congrats on the purchase, this box will transform the feel of the truck. The steering shaft can either be rebuilt or replaced with a Borgeson
If you pull the ball joint out of the pitman are instead. You can remove the pitman arm on the bench once you unbolt the box.
Cuáles son las estoperas o cellos de ese cajetín?
Love it!! Detailed, concise, and covers the random problem I'm having on an obscure vehicle. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos!!!
lol a ford bronco/f150 isn’t a very obscure vehicle
Very welcome!
@@Joseph-pg9re Finding parts for an 89 bronco is a pain in the butt man!
Great video. Very helpful and no annoying music blaring. Thanks.
This install cures the steering play by about 90%, the rest (assuming your ball joints and tie rods are good) will require the steering shaft replacement.
Good information! Thank you!
It’s not that bad at all! And it all make sense! Thank you for this SUPER video
You can adjust the worm drive further. The hex screw and nut on the center of the red cap is the adjustment screw.
I put one in my 92 f150 with the borgeson steering shaft, love the combo, if you use a borgeson, get the rag joint and your steering will be smooth as butter.
I just did this replacement today. I changed the lines too and still have a leak at the pump but I think it needs an O-ring to seal it. Anyway, as far as the axle / differential interfering with getting an impact gun on the puller, I got everything disconnected and then removed the steering shaft and then removed the rear and bottom mounting bold for the steering box and loosened the upper/forward bolt enough to allow the box to swing forward a little bit and was able to pivot the whole assembly enough to get my impact gun straight on the puller and it was able to pull the pitman arm off at that point. Was very easy doing it that way.
Good solid advice.
Good content. No non-sense and no talking for the sake of talking. Keep it up.
Thanks!
I appreciate your support!
Right. Keep the core and rebuild it. That's what I would do. Great course here. Thanks for the gearbox info. I've got over 300,000 on mine and she's way overdue.
I've always adjusted the box to tighten it up. Loosen the nut, run the allen shaft on down about a half turn at a time, tighten the nut, check for slop. Don't go too tight or it could bind.
Been doing that since 1979 😝
Great video. I never knew about Redhead gear boxes
till I saw your video. I "d add a comment to make this job easier, separate the pitman arm from the drag link and remove the gear box with it on. Its much easier to get it off with the box in a vice. Mine was stuck so I used a pitman arm puller with a five point socket, breaker bar, heat and a hammer , it came right off
Great tip!
Good video man, clear instructions and install footage. Thinking I’m gonna do this to my 93 lightning restoration. Thank you!
It’s well worth it.
You better, waiting for you to get back on it man! lol
@@chriscrusader5412 lol soon my friend, finally getting stuff back from the shops.
well done this was short sweet and to the point. tackling my box this weekend
For what it's worth, there is discussions on the FullSizeBronco forums about redtop, bluetop, and motorcraft remans. Blue and red machine the worn housings and add bearings, but motorcraft replaces the housing with a new one at oe spec. So they both solve the issue in different ways
Love these videos so much! I bought a 1986 Ford Bronco about 1 years ago ago. Ever since I’ve owned it I always noticed the wine from my power steering pump but just thought it was because it’s old. I just barely refilled my Bronco with power steering fluid. Blew my mind when you said not to use that. I’m getting new headers here soon and then this will be my next upgrade. Thanks again for the amazing videos.
Glad you like them!
You da man broski, just bought the red head myself, hope it takes care of the issue, keep making vids of your bronco ive watched them all
did it?
Red head known about them fir 20 yrs now great product
Looks so easy on a southern/western truck. Salt destroys those! I've had to cut the bolt heads off. Nice video.
thats so nice to see when your working on a truck that is definitely NOT a Michigan vehicle (salt on roads in winter) and your power steering lines are NOT rusted to their screw on parts...like mine. trying to use a torch, penetrating oil, and wiggle back and forth repeatedly but not sure I can save the hoses.
You may be better off replacing the lines/hoses anyway. The last thing you want is a leak after a job like this. You can get good quality parts from rock auto.
@@TheFixTech thanks and my post was more a jest at myself and dealing with the Michigan vehicles I do. But as I am patient and persistent the first one, return line, broke free 45min in, then the other 2 hrs after and was about to give up on it. Half a can of WD40, twisting, then a propane torch, twist back and forth again, and plenty of patience finally did the job. And the ends were still good to. Thanks for the video, watching helped me figure this out as it's my first F150...I am used to just dealing with my Ranger
What a beautiful piece to put in your project too, absolutely gorgeous
Thanks for a great instructional video... I am in the process of buying a 1990 ford bronco 5.0 .... 302 v8 and the guy said the steering gear needs replaced. So this will help . btw just subscribed
Congrats, these trucks are fun to work on.
I got one from AutoZone in '21 and it was as tight as the old one. Reason I replaced was the old one blew out it's seals after 36 years and it was easier to replace due to being on the road. I had the tools so I changed it right there in the AutoZone parking lot. It was on an 85 Econoline so it was easier than trucks.
If you are installing by yourself on a lifted vehicle it's really hard to hold the box in place while threading that first bolt.
Put a stud on the top and push it through to hold it up and then put the other two bolts in, remove the stud and put the last bolt in.
Would you want to scrib a line to make sure.that the p arm goes.back in the.same.place.
Very helpful! Going to be my project for this weekend
Autozone has a heavy duty Pittman arm puller. Dont even mess around with the small one
NICE! You made that look too easy...hope I have your luck!
If you run into any trouble just remember wd40 is your friend
Do you recall what size pitman arm puller you bought? I have an 89 Bronco and definitely going to make some of these upgrades that you're showing. Thanks for the great videos and hopefully you keep adding more.
Awesome video! Thanks so much for posting!
Thanks for making all these videos, I already used a few of them to replace the suspension and brakes on my 89 F150. Quick question, do you happen to know the socket size you used for the pitman arm nut?
My redhead arrived yesterday! Doing this today, but wondering about the fluid since I switched out my punp to the Saginaw last year...
I would use the fluid that the Saginaw requires, check the ford econoline van specs.
Great video which inspired me to do the box, shaft and ps pump to Saginaw style. I just bolted up the box, installed the Borgeson shaft. Struggling to get the pitman arm lined up and on the box. Do the wheels need to be off the ground? I can’t move it into position :(
Yes, lifting the wheels will help.
Love those tires. Good video
Thank you for sharing!!
Great video, I have a question about the box, I own 70s ford truck and I been wanting upgrades the power steering box, do you know if 6.0 steering box fits 77 Ford?
The 6.0 ford box will not be a direct fit, but you can modify the 1977 chassis to accept figment. You can also use a universal borgeson steering shaft to custom fit the box to steering column. Check with RedHead and Borgeson as they may have other upgrade options for your build.
Great video
Thank you sir can you please give me info or link where you get the box ?
I have the Bronco, I can’t figure out why my ABS light is on any ideas?
What year? 87-1992 had rear wheel abs only. The usual cause for an abs light on those year models is simple, the master cylinder has an abs sensor built in and would need to be inspected, check the wiring to the master cylinder. Also check the sensor on top of the rear diff. If 1993-1996 it could be wiring, relay, fuse, wheel sensors or the abs pump itself.
Any difference from the redhead and blue top steering boxes - just was recommended to me the blue top was wondering if you know by chance? Thanks for video!
I’ve heard of the blue top, I personally chose the redhead since they use all new internals (nothing reman). They machine all the metal components in house. If blue top does the same then I would say they are just as good. I am happy with my redhead so far.
@@TheFixTechredheads are great and all, and can be a hell of a lotta fun! Just don’t jinx yourself, if a redhead’s got a chance to give you a problem you’re likely to be up that creek! 😂
Did you not have to replace the o-rings when reconnecting the lines back to the steering box? Just got a redhead box myself and it came with replacement o-rings, however can't figure out where they go. Connectors look the same as in your video, any insight you may share will be appreciated.
They are flare fittings from the factory, metal to metal. I didn’t use the provided o rings as the original did not have them either. No leaks.
I'm about to buy one for my 94 bronco, what's ur take on it since u replaced it till now?
It’s one of the best upgrade/repairs you can do for these trucks. Actually being able to control these trucks make them more fun to drive. If you still have the original steering shaft be sure to inspect for any play and replace if needed.
Use the puller. Apply some force. Use a proper ball peen hammer and hit the end of the pitman arm. In an upward fashion. And walk it. The puller gets re tightened after each series off hammer blows. Take up to an hour. Just be patient. (For the guy having a hard time. Not the guy in the video.) Ball peen hammers are for a reason.
It will only correct the problem 90% temporarily until it prematurely wears out like every other steering component.
Ford four-wheel drives of that era have independent front suspension in the main Kingpin wears out which causes slop. That causes excessive stress on the steering box and other joints.
Unless the main problem is fixed all the other fixes will just wear out in a few months and it'll be right back where you started from.
If you don't believe me have someone get in your truck and gently apply the brake while shifting from forward to reverse. Observe the movement of the wheels toeing Inward and towing outward.
You will never fix the loose steering without fixing that first.
Good info, yes if you have a Dana 60 axle this will be the case up to 1991 model year. F150 and bronco 4wd have Dana 44 and have ball joints (no kingpin).
F250 have either Dana 50 or 60 and they went to ball joint in 1988 or 1991 respectively.
And if you have a 2wd then you will have ball joint.
The kingpin is extremely hard to rebuild properly, but well worth it as you’ve said it can cure loose steering and the well know issue of wobble.
Is that an issue with the 2 wheel drive as well? Is there anything beside the steering box, shaft, or joints to consider?
@@dragonrider9051 All 2wd models will have ball joints. If your ball joints are good a new box, shaft and tie rods/drag link should cure the loose steering.
@@TheFixTech I'm about to find out, I have done tie rods trans mounts, I have new ball joint, radius arm bushings, motor mounts, and looking to either go red head or blue top not sure yet
@@bimmerDallasBikersUnitedDBUCan Go with the red head
Ebay link expired, do you have another link?
I couldn’t find another link to the RedHead, I did add a link to the Motorcraft steering gear as I have heard of good results.
Can it go on the gas trucks? I thought they were only for diesel?
Yes they can be installed onto gas trucks. The two bolt is for gas trucks, the 4 bolt are for diesels.
What size nut holds the pittman arm to the steering box?
It should be a 1 5/16. I used a 36mm, was too big but actually worked.
Thanks for the quick response. Figures, I have a 38 and a 34 lol
@@SteveGrin The actual size is a 33mm socket. Much easier to find than the 1 5/16" socket.
@@davidmanning3996 Thanks!
Ratchet wrenches for the win
Just picked up a set, you’ll need both metric and standard for these trucks
@@TheFixTech I have a 1995 Ford F150 with the I6 Tractor Motor.. its super fun to work on.
I would delete the shaft with a solid from a jeep or foxbody
Where did you find that steering box for that price.? All steering box is for bronco seem to be $450 and up
It was listed on Amazon, now it’s only on eBay and their website
Any torque spec brother? Other than that, perfect explanatory video..
For the box to frame 54-66, pitman 190-230
@@TheFixTech I did 200 on pitman arm to box..
It has been a year now. How is the steering box coming along? Any problems? I just installed this red head. The play is worst than before. The Cardone I had was better.
I love my redhead, it is still sharp. I have it on two trucks installed around same time. I have a follow up video urging an install of a new steering shaft for complete control. I used a new borgeson steering shaft, they are solid. Check your steering shaft and coupler for wear. Redhead has good customer service if there are any defects with yours they should take care of it. Also check your tie rod ends and drag link.
@@TheFixTech Thnx for the reply. I had already done the borgeson upgrade before doing the gear box. Took it to the alignment shop and they are telling the gear box is the problem. The steering randomly pulls to the left and right when driving. Was not doing this before doing the swap.
If the box feels real tight (almost too sensitive) then that is what mine was like in the beginning. I called it “dancing” but assumed the gears inside the box where new and needed to be broken in. That was indeed the case for me, after about 1,000 miles it settled and has been perfect ever since. I didn’t check with or call RedHead and can’t say for sure that is the case for you. If you have any doubts please contact RedHead.
@@TheFixTech Thnx for the reply again. You're awesome. Something does not feel right. I feel like there is more slop than there was before. I will be doing the bleeding process again on a hoist this weekend.
@@iHeartOiSkankscall redhead and tell them they will have a fix
Is there any adjustment on the gear box? Is it possible to rebuild it yourself?
No, the adjuster screw should not be tampered with. It is set by the factory. It is possible to rebuild the unit and install new seals, but for complete tightness in steering some key metal components need to be replaced. Rebuild kits do not come with these components. Companies like redhead, manufacture their own metal components.
@@TheFixTech Thank you for the info, very helpful!
I'm rebuilding my core with the basic kit you'll find at most parts houses. The kit includes bearings, seals, and snap rings - all made out of recycled shopping carts from China. I'll keep the rebuilt core as a spare. The heavy components like the worm and sector gears, they machine in house at red/blue top. I've looked a bit, and can't find those new anywhere.
Well it’s been about a year since you posted this, still all good?
O yeah, nothing like being able to control a bucking Bronco.
Which fluid did you use ?
ATF type F is what is called for if you have the standard Ford power steering pump. If you have the Saginaw pump then use mercon
I accidentally used atf type f.. will it make a difference
How well does your steering box return to center by itself? I installed a redhead box in my F250 in about 2014 and from the 10 o clock to 2 o clock position it never really has returned to center very well. It drove really good the first several years but it's slowly degraded since. If I go around a corner and let go of the wheel it returns to center until it gets to either 10 or 2 o clock positions then I have to finish centering myself. I've tried adjusting the box preload and it didn't change much. I've got about 18k miles on mine and it's getting loose and seems like it's starting to get sticky feeling, the exact same thing the box it replaced did, except that one had about 150k miles or so on it, also a reman. Everything steering wise is new on mine, new king pins, tie rods, radius and I beam bushings, borgeson steering shaft, u joint in tilt steering is good. Drives horribly and I'm pretty sure it's the steering box.
Could also be a alignment issue. If they don’t put enough caster on the wheels, it might not have the power to straighten the last little bit out.
@@mrnuttle Could be, it is twin I beam so you never know. I can't remember what the caster was last time I had the alignment checked but it was within spec.
For the life of me I can not get the high pressure line back into the steering box
The line may have to be bent/adjust as to ensure it fits exactly straight into the new box. Check the threads on the line and box, you may have to clean up the threads with a tap/die set.
What’s the nut size
It’s a 1 5/16, I used a 36mm but it was too big (it worked, but could have damaged the nut)
33 mm
I replaced the power steering gear box on my 95 f150 . After the new one was installed it didn’t work. I drove it around for a week with no power steering and all of a sudden it started working. I guess I wasn’t patient enough when working steering wheel left to right to bleed the air out.
Ur lucky those lines came off mine i had to cut the lines and replace them to get the box out no chance i was getting those old ass lines out
True, I’ve seen these literally rusted into one piece.
If you do this just plan to buy a pitman arm unless you have an oxy torch. Broke 3 pullers before i decided to buy a bottle of oxygen
OTC conical puller works
Umm that unit is also rebuilt.
$260? Nvm I’m good with my loose steering.
The blah blah blah with the pitman arm removal was brutal even at 2x speed. Less blabbing
.. for the price of a puller you can usually buy a New Pitman Arm, which is what I did on my Econoline .. from a Chevrolet Dealership, because it was an AC Delco Part .. 🧰👨🔧✋💯