Wow, i literally just returned from the shed after stripping a drive side thread on a bike I'm working on. I looked up "pedal thread repair" and was not surprised to find that RJ had the answer. I was surprised though, to see that the cranks RJ had stripped were exactly the same cranks! It made me feel just a little better. Good to know that there's a fix too.
Thanks RJ excellent demo on installing heli-coils. Recently had some seriously seized pedals on a dated mountain bike. Applied a few drops of kerosene around the thread ends and left over night. Pedals come loose the following morning. Always enjoy your clips.
The inserts RJ used don't appear to be Helicoils. The label on the package calls them "bushings". They appear to be solid inserts. Actual Helicoils are more like springs made from diamond-shaped wire.
Heli-coils are a spring shape insert. This type shown looks to be a solid threaded bushing insert. I would suggest a heli-coil style insert would be a stronger repair than a solid insert like these. Although I have not tried either specifically for a crank/pedal repair, (yet). The reason being, when a bolt is put under tension, the tension in the bolt is not uniform. The threads towards the head end will carry alot more of the load, than those further away. Because a heli-coil is effectively a spring, it has elastic properties. Meaning as the bolt puts load into the coil, the coil will deform, both in diameter and length, and distribute that load more evenly from the length of the bolt, into the parent material. This coupled with the larger diameter/surface area from the larger external thread means that heli-coil type of insert is usually stronger than a simple tapped hole of the same size. Especially so when put into softer materials like aluminium and brass.
Im only here because I have just pulled the threads from the crank arm on my eMTB. I plan on attempting a repair and have just ordered a heli-coil style repair kit. (Heli-coil is a trade name, but there are numerous other products that function the same.) There are many crank arm thread repair videos on you tube, and they mostly seam to use the Unior brand kit, with the solid inserts. Although I have opted to use a Re-coil brand kit. Which is an Australian company. They have a coil repair kit for 9/16-20 UNEF, both left and right.
Well done, most places would just tell you to get a new crank arm instead. Love to see you bring old parts back to life in a cost effective way. And the tools can be used again... I've seen stripped threads on aluminum arms many times.
Bacon grease will give you a fine clean smooth tapped hole. You can spin the tap clean through at the end to avoid galling the threads or otherwise damaging the threads. This type of thread repair is stronger than the original tapped hole. I could explain why, but then....you get the idea. Great video and thanks for remembering the part about clearing the chip out of the tap.
Thanks for the video .. left pedal anti-clockwise 👍 . I just fixed it . That tool to make the threads size is 5/8 , that's a little bigger than the 9/16 standard pedal size . And then you will have to buy the little insert adapter 9/16 size as well . Remember you have to specify if you need it for the left or right side because they are all different. As February 23 2022 I paid $26 for both of them on Amazon. you don't need any fancy tool for this .. just the regular ones you have at home and also you don't need that lock tight liquid .. it's just for a bicycle and not for a motorcycle
I know it wasn't the purpose of your video but I was watching I something you said made me realise I was trying to screw the pedal on in the wrong direction. So thanks for that!
Great video, this procedure is a lifesaver for resurrecting nice old cranksets that are no longer made and too good to throw away. I’ve read the same procedure can be done to restore a stripped out bottom bracket shell but I’ve not seen any videos or resources on exactly where to get the tools/supplies needed to do it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've used threadless bottom brackets and they are certainly a good solution for stripped or damaged bottom bracket threads.However, there are instances in which I would like to be able to use the period correct threaded bottom bracket for certain bicycles to retain originality, congruence of group set, and because a preference for being able to rebuild and dial in bearing preload for a cup/cone BB.
thank you so very very much! this was extremely helpful. I didn't even know that these thread repair kits existed. I was actually trying to replace the pedal arm on my crank set which has a damaged thread. I sorta stumbled onto your video. Well I think imma go this way instead. especially since its a really nice crank set and it would be a shame to discard it just because of one thread . thanks !!
Thank you bike guy for helping me save my new e-bike. Dumb me when I tried to put a right side pedal on the left side and messed up the threads on the left crank.
my Tiagra crank set did this yesterday. It was $85 for a whole new crank set with different gear ratios so a win win in my opinion.The tools needed to do this (tap tool and pedal replacement kit) was nearly the same cost. I see value in this if your crank sets are over $150.
When cutting threads on a through hole, I like to keep a brush handy and brush the chips off before backing the tap out. On a blind hole, especially when you switch to a bottoming tap to thread the full depth, re-clamp the work with the open end down so chips don't build up in the bottom of the hole.
Just a side note on a choice of lubricant for cutting/ drilling/ tapping aluminium and its alloys - not oil, but isopropyl alcohol (a.k.a. rubbing alcohol) or regular denaturated alcohol (a.k.a. ethanol) is the recommended lubricant (and the former seems to be better than the latter). Also, two pieces of wood (medium-hard to hard) would do better job of hoding the crank steady in vise without leaving any marks on it. A piece of playwood, HDF/ MDF board would also do the trick. (OSB board is not recommended, as it may contain small hard debris, like grains of sand or tiny pieces of rock.) Best, BTC
OMG thank you! Struggled all day to get my pedal back on so thought was threaded, after searching all day for tools to buy or to take to repair shop, I heard you say that the crank arm is LEFT hand screwed so that's why my right handed motion was not working!! Thanks!!
How about installing helicoil on Shimano crank arm pinch bolts? I find myseld in a situation now that I've stripped those pinch bolt areas as I kept on removing and reinstalling for a deep clean.
RJ, those kits are great, but man are they pricey! The sets I found are over $125! I've never had the need to do this before, and doubt I will again after fixing this one. It's a lot of outlay just for one crank. I think I'll let my shop do the work instead.
Your vice looks a bit wobbly but you managed to cut the threads, the inserts are called hellicoils, i used to fit them in petrol and diesel engines, great job thank you
GREAT INFORMATION I THOUGHT I HAD A BIGGER PROBLEM TIL I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO QUESTION WHERE CAN I PURCHASE THE BAGS OF INSERTS AND OTHER NEEDED HARDWARE THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Great video, very easy to follow and understand! Is it possible to reverse the threads on a new right hand crank to fit to the left hand side of a tandem without installing a heli-coil? If not can I fit a left hand heli-coil into a right hand crank? Thanks in advance!
Thanks, but before I do all that. Because it looks like only the first 2mm looks damaged I’m going to thread an old peddle axel in all the way through from the other side of the crank arm. Hopefully that will clean up the damaged thread on the crank arm enough to thread in the new peddle. Would melting a lead sinker and pouring in the molten lead into the void work ? If lead and bikes are not the ideal mix then how hard is it to get aluminium to melt?
Thank you so much for this instructional video, very well presented.~ Would this method be suitable for an exercise bike pedal also? One of my pedals snapped off and the thread is really messed up. Many thanks!
I got a M9000 shifter band clamp that has decided to strip itself at less than the recommended 5Nm. Since that's also a hole all the way through like the crank in this video, this should be a useful video to see how to do it. I was going to get the part replaced since it's still under warranty but what's the point if the new part is going to be a steel bolt going into soft aluminium threads again - I think if it's got a helicoil put in and done properly, it will be stronger than it would be as standard. The question of why Shimano isn't shipping these supposedly top-tier shifter band clamps with a helicoil already in - like they do with their braze-on front derailleurs - is a mystery! Shimano XTR stuff has become cheap and flimsy compared to the old 8-Speed and 9-Speed XTR stuff of the past that was near-impossible to break. Cheers RJ The Bike Guy.
But it is cheaper to buy the crankset, because the Unior repair kit costs over $100. The Unior kit is really meant as a shop tool for a repair business.
This is great video. I have an old Campy left crank arm that I can't throw away even though the threads are wrecked! What was the tapping tool you used?
You shouldn't turn the tool backwards when you are cutting the old threads out, running a cutting tool backwards quickly dulls it (the exception being taps to break the chips, no need to break the chips with a reamer or a drill!)
As said above, reaming tools shouldn't be turned in opposite direction. Tapping tools (hand tapping) generally should be reversed periodically to break chips. This tool is both a reaming, and a hand tapping tool in one. For the amount of use your likely to see. It probably won't make any difference.
There was an Odyssey BMX stem that used a single bolt to clamp the stem and handlebar via wedges. It was an ingenious system, but it was a little annoying to get it right. In any case, the bolt threaded in to a spring thread inside one of the aluminum wedges. Why nobody else does this I have no idea, but after dealing with damaged threads on aluminum stuff I wish more manufacturers implemented the system.
Very informative video, thank you! I was looking for a way to fix the pedal for and exercise bike with a stripped pedal. You video is very good, although I will probably end up having to take it to a pro because I might mess it up. Thanks though :)
Thanks RJ! Loved the video which was very concise. My right crank pedal threads are so stripped to the point i can insert my right pedal in and take it out without any turning action (basically the threads aren't even locking in on each other). Do you think this method will still be able to fix it? If I take it into a local bike shop, will they do this procedure for me?
For those of us with expensive crank arms (my crank arms cost $480), paying $40 bucks at a bike shop is the best solution. If the cranks are cheap, then replacing would be the best option.
As the tools were expensive i bought a new crank arm, but even in that the thread stripped of 😑, what must be the problem?. And your videos are great helping many cyclists and mechanics 👏👌
@@RJTheBikeGuy even after replacing the new crank arm, faced the same problem.( i think the problem is with something else like pedal,) Can you tell the reasons why this happens(threading stripping) please
Without having worked on the bike I can't really tell you. I have never had pedal threads just strip out. The case above was due to the pedal threads being seized due to galvanic corrosion, and were ripped out when removing pedal.
As I was watching I was thinking the same thing regarding clean up. Yeah, tapping fluid is better. More so though I watched as he applied lube to the pedal threads then using the same finger, you can still see oil on them, to apply the thread lock. When I apply thread lock I usually clean the threads first with degreaser then methylated spirits to ensure proper bonding, especially on what is effectively a permanent threaded insert. Regardless, this is a great video that clearly shows a technical bicycle repair and is done well.
RJ is a bit of a "hacker". But his videos are very educational in that he dissecst all the parts of the bicycle for us to see how they work. He also has some nice tips. But we have to correct some of his sloppiness. We can't expect perfection in a video. I also laughed when he put oil on the inside of the helicoil and threadlock on the outside! Once you start screwing everything in, it's all gonna mix! Better to install helicoil in the crank arm first, let it dry, THEN install the pedal with some oil!
My pedal is fine but have issue with the square joint which attach spindle and crank(actually is crank, spindle and a bolt). The crank socket which accept spindle is damaged. I guess the crank slips and ultimately loosen the bolt which keep it all together. is there a way to manage that? it's fine, even if it is a temporary fix .
RJ The Bike Guy let me confirm, you mean replace the whole crank set, do you? However I am not able to get parts so also let me know if you have any other ideas. I tried to put some rubber-sealing agent and it kept the joint intact for some 15 miles. This time I am going to use some cello tape and heat. Also I might just keep the wrench socket with me tighten the bolt after every 10 miles. Thanks.
@@saurabht3540 Grease on those square taper spindles is what will usually ruin cranks. Shouldn't even let oil from your fingers touch the taper or the crank square. You might try getting the area completely clean and bone dry and use some red Loctite. Probably won't last long though. You do need a new crank arm. If you have a co-op or non-profit bike shop nearby, they probably have a bin on them, for a few bucks each.
A little off topic: I'm trying to remove pedals from a 1973-ish Raleigh Competition that has TA Specialties cranks. The pedals are supposed to be Raleigh 501, but the only mark I can find is, "Made in France." The drive side pedal was easy to loosen, but after unscrewing a few turns, starts to bind up again. I didn't want to force things and am looking for info. It doesn't feel cross threaded. Any ideas? I wish I could put my old Look or Shimano clipless pedals on this crank, but I assume it has French threads... Thank you for your excellent videos.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I swap pedals around on bikes frequently, so I'm confident I've got the direction right. There's something odd about this one. Are there any pedals that you don't just simply unscrew? Some sort of other locking? I've never seen such a thing. If not, then I just need to wrench it off and hope it doesn't chase a new set of messed up threads.
Any chance I could send a set of cranks to you for you to perform this service. Been to three bike shops here (in Los Angeles) and no one will touch them. I’m reluctant to do it myself because they’re for a Nordictrack and, as far as I know, can’t be replaced. Would be happy to pay.
I bought a used Haro off CL for my son and it looks like they installed the pedals on the wrong sided which stripped the threads. Would you be interested in doing this to his crank and install the pedals or should I just go to a local shop?
Unfortunately, the regular 1/2" tap handle you can buy at hardware stores and auto parts stores can't fit this tap/reamer tool, so that adds to the cost of this procedure. I'm lucky enough to have a great LBS owned by friends who let me borrow their tools.
+neil crompton you would have to use a 5/8 pedal tap to make the hole bigger then loctite the helicoil to the crank arm, then insert the pedal , and the helicoil+loctite should hold up against abuse, check amazon for all the stuff you need its all there
Hi RJ mate, love your videos. Have you ever resolved an issue with the threads of road shoes as I've wrecked mine as they've had too much use and at times been over tightened. Its a really difficult video to find!
Cool that you did it, but cheaper/easier/faster to just buy a new crankset if you don't already have the materials laying around, which you obviously do because you're RJ The Bike Guy.
I am a total layman when it comes to bicycle parts and repairs. Anyways, I am here b/c my crank arms slip when I pedal my bike. So, the crank arms themselves seem securely attached. It's just when I pedal my bike to move forward, they catch a little, but mostly slip..... And, like I said since I know very little about bikes, I am not sure what the issue is. Can you offer and ideas and suggestions? Thanks!
Shawn Chamberlain I would guess from what you've written here that your chain is worn out. If it's slipping like that, it could be really worn, so be prepared to replace the chain and cassette/freewheel. It is possible the chainrings will need changing too.
Ok dude. I bought a bike for my wife and I had trouble installing one of the pedals. I managed to get it in but here we are 6 months later and the pedal fell off while riding. It looks like I crossed the threads and it stripped the threads of BOTH the crank arm AND pedals. It seems I can only find info on fixing one or the other but not one on how do deal with both at the same time. Any ideas?
Not sure how you messed up the pedal threads. Generally they are like Cro-Mo steel, the arm is aluminum. Sometimes aluminum gets embedded in the steel threads which can be cleaned off. ua-cam.com/video/YxTVuwRzOAo/v-deo.html Probably the easiest it replace the cranks, and see if you can reuse the pedals.
They are not helicoils. Around $100. But you might be able to find a shop that has a kit. Or if you work on a bunch of bike, the kit might be worth it.
I asked my local bike shop if they do this kind of work. They ended putting the insert crookedly, and now is kind of tortuous to pedal... Is there anything left to do? What do you say? :/. Thanks for the video!
Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare.
6 sets of inserts plus the taps for $120. About 20/set. If you wanted this fine in a shop I guess you'd pay about $40 plus labour. Could be $100 total. Those had better be some nice cranks to warrant that expense!
I'll check an eye. Was repairing bearings on my pedal, put it back on the crank arm. It seems I didn't managed quite well, bearings blocked the pedal from spinning and kinda ruined crankarms thread ;(
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I have a pair of 3 piece cranks for a bmx bike and the right side pedal threads are stripped what size of tap would I need for it
@@matthubbard904 What did you end up doing?
@@luigiprovencher nothing it’s gonna cost like 60 dollars to get them fixed there just stock fit indented 8 spline cranks
@@matthubbard904 Do you have the original pedals?
@@luigiprovencher no there just odyssey petals
Wow, i literally just returned from the shed after stripping a drive side thread on a bike I'm working on. I looked up "pedal thread repair" and was not surprised to find that RJ had the answer. I was surprised though, to see that the cranks RJ had stripped were exactly the same cranks! It made me feel just a little better. Good to know that there's a fix too.
I stripped the same cranks as well!
Thanks RJ excellent demo on installing heli-coils. Recently had some seriously seized pedals on a dated mountain bike. Applied a few drops of kerosene around the thread ends and left over night. Pedals come loose the following morning. Always enjoy your clips.
The inserts RJ used don't appear to be Helicoils. The label on the package calls them "bushings". They appear to be solid inserts. Actual Helicoils are more like springs made from diamond-shaped wire.
Heli-coils are a spring shape insert. This type shown looks to be a solid threaded bushing insert.
I would suggest a heli-coil style insert would be a stronger repair than a solid insert like these. Although I have not tried either specifically for a crank/pedal repair, (yet).
The reason being, when a bolt is put under tension, the tension in the bolt is not uniform. The threads towards the head end will carry alot more of the load, than those further away.
Because a heli-coil is effectively a spring, it has elastic properties. Meaning as the bolt puts load into the coil, the coil will deform, both in diameter and length, and distribute that load more evenly from the length of the bolt, into the parent material. This coupled with the larger diameter/surface area from the larger external thread means that heli-coil type of insert is usually stronger than a simple tapped hole of the same size. Especially so when put into softer materials like aluminium and brass.
Im only here because I have just pulled the threads from the crank arm on my eMTB. I plan on attempting a repair and have just ordered a heli-coil style repair kit. (Heli-coil is a trade name, but there are numerous other products that function the same.)
There are many crank arm thread repair videos on you tube, and they mostly seam to use the Unior brand kit, with the solid inserts. Although I have opted to use a Re-coil brand kit. Which is an Australian company. They have a coil repair kit for 9/16-20 UNEF, both left and right.
Well done, most places would just tell you to get a new crank arm instead. Love to see you bring old parts back to life in a cost effective way. And the tools can be used again... I've seen stripped threads on aluminum arms many times.
true; still Unior brand is kind of expensive ( in my area atleast )
Now that's what i call a tutorial video! Well performed & in good quality. Keep up the good work :)
Bacon grease will give you a fine clean smooth tapped hole. You can spin the tap clean through at the end to avoid galling the threads or otherwise damaging the threads. This type of thread repair is stronger than the original tapped hole. I could explain why, but then....you get the idea. Great video and thanks for remembering the part about clearing the chip out of the tap.
Thanks for the video .. left pedal anti-clockwise 👍 . I just fixed it . That tool to make the threads size is 5/8 , that's a little bigger than the 9/16 standard pedal size . And then you will have to buy the little insert adapter 9/16 size as well . Remember you have to specify if you need it for the left or right side because they are all different. As February 23 2022 I paid $26 for both of them on Amazon. you don't need any fancy tool for this .. just the regular ones you have at home and also you don't need that lock tight liquid .. it's just for a bicycle and not for a motorcycle
I can't find em on Amazon, any link you can help me for the left pedal?
@@SaludfitnessPUNTOcom put in the search: bicycle left pedal threads..
Tap size for helicoil is 5/8-24？
I know it wasn't the purpose of your video but I was watching I something you said made me realise I was trying to screw the pedal on in the wrong direction. So thanks for that!
I used the same thing on my 50cc Yamaha cylinder head bolt years ago before the internet was out, it worked great. Glad to see it on your channel.
Great video, this procedure is a lifesaver for resurrecting nice old cranksets that are no longer made and too good to throw away. I’ve read the same procedure can be done to restore a stripped out bottom bracket shell but I’ve not seen any videos or resources on exactly where to get the tools/supplies needed to do it.
I don't know about BB shell. They make threadless BBs.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've used threadless bottom brackets and they are certainly a good solution for stripped or damaged bottom bracket threads.However, there are instances in which I would like to be able to use the period correct threaded bottom bracket for certain bicycles to retain originality, congruence of group set, and because a preference for being able to rebuild and dial in bearing preload for a cup/cone BB.
thank you so very very much! this was extremely helpful. I didn't even know that these thread repair kits existed. I was actually trying to replace the pedal arm on my crank set which has a damaged thread. I sorta stumbled onto your video. Well I think imma go this way instead. especially since its a really nice crank set and it would be a shame to discard it just because of one thread . thanks !!
Thank you bike guy for helping me save my new e-bike. Dumb me when I tried to put a right side pedal on the left side and messed up the threads on the left crank.
my Tiagra crank set did this yesterday. It was $85 for a whole new crank set with different gear ratios so a win win in my opinion.The tools needed to do this (tap tool and pedal replacement kit) was nearly the same cost. I see value in this if your crank sets are over $150.
When cutting threads on a through hole, I like to keep a brush handy and brush the chips off before backing the tap out. On a blind hole, especially when you switch to a bottoming tap to thread the full depth, re-clamp the work with the open end down so chips don't build up in the bottom of the hole.
Joe gives solid advice!
Just a side note on a choice of lubricant for cutting/ drilling/ tapping aluminium and its alloys - not oil, but isopropyl alcohol (a.k.a. rubbing alcohol) or regular denaturated alcohol (a.k.a. ethanol) is the recommended lubricant (and the former seems to be better than the latter).
Also, two pieces of wood (medium-hard to hard) would do better job of hoding the crank steady in vise without leaving any marks on it. A piece of playwood, HDF/ MDF board would also do the trick. (OSB board is not recommended, as it may contain small hard debris, like grains of sand or tiny pieces of rock.)
Best,
BTC
*Give this man a cookie*
or a beer...
🖒rubbing alcohol,.....the Russians use it to stretch Vodka 😀!
Will try!
Thanks for your input!
Great information! Posting the link to the products is a lot of help too.
does welding work ?thats the most convenient one for me
OMG thank you! Struggled all day to get my pedal back on so thought was threaded, after searching all day for tools to buy or to take to repair shop, I heard you say that the crank arm is LEFT hand screwed so that's why my right handed motion was not working!! Thanks!!
How about installing helicoil on Shimano crank arm pinch bolts? I find myseld in a situation now that I've stripped those pinch bolt areas as I kept on removing and reinstalling for a deep clean.
RJ, those kits are great, but man are they pricey! The sets I found are over $125! I've never had the need to do this before, and doubt I will again after fixing this one. It's a lot of outlay just for one crank. I think I'll let my shop do the work instead.
Your vice looks a bit wobbly but you managed to cut the threads, the inserts are called hellicoils, i used to fit them in petrol and diesel engines, great job thank you
GREAT INFORMATION I THOUGHT I HAD A BIGGER PROBLEM TIL I WATCHED YOUR VIDEO QUESTION WHERE CAN I PURCHASE THE BAGS OF INSERTS AND OTHER NEEDED HARDWARE THANK YOU VERY MUCH
You would be better off taking it to a shop that has the equipment.
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001PTCKJO/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Great video, very easy to follow and understand! Is it possible to reverse the threads on a new right hand crank to fit to the left hand side of a tandem without installing a heli-coil? If not can I fit a left hand heli-coil into a right hand crank? Thanks in advance!
Probably not. Yes.
Really appreciate this video! Any worry about having the tap level? Also, would it be a bad idea to use a drill to turn it?
Thanks, but before I do all that. Because it looks like only the first 2mm looks damaged I’m going to thread an old peddle axel in all the way through from the other side of the crank arm. Hopefully that will clean up the damaged thread on the crank arm enough to thread in the new peddle. Would melting a lead sinker and pouring in the molten lead into the void work ? If lead and bikes are not the ideal mix then how hard is it to get aluminium to melt?
Aluminum melts at over 1200F. I would say try to get the pedal to fit, or maybe buy a new crank.
what size helicoils and taps needed?
Thank you so much for this instructional video, very well presented.~
Would this method be suitable for an exercise bike pedal also? One of my pedals snapped off and the thread is really messed up.
Many thanks!
Maybe.
I got a M9000 shifter band clamp that has decided to strip itself at less than the recommended 5Nm. Since that's also a hole all the way through like the crank in this video, this should be a useful video to see how to do it.
I was going to get the part replaced since it's still under warranty but what's the point if the new part is going to be a steel bolt going into soft aluminium threads again - I think if it's got a helicoil put in and done properly, it will be stronger than it would be as standard.
The question of why Shimano isn't shipping these supposedly top-tier shifter band clamps with a helicoil already in - like they do with their braze-on front derailleurs - is a mystery!
Shimano XTR stuff has become cheap and flimsy compared to the old 8-Speed and 9-Speed XTR stuff of the past that was near-impossible to break.
Cheers RJ The Bike Guy.
wow, i thought i had to buy a new $40 crankset. Thanks for this very informational video! You explained it very well! Thanks so much!
But it is cheaper to buy the crankset, because the Unior repair kit costs over $100. The Unior kit is really meant as a shop tool for a repair business.
Hi, the link you provided no longer have stock.
Do you have other link to share with me.
Apprecaited.
i noticed that all of my aluminum bike cranks will get their threads stripped when using a removal tool? is there a better way to remove them?
What if right arm threads damaged? Need to replace the whole crankset or still can repair just the arm?
Could you tell me what is the size of the non drive side hiliciol
Can I use metal Glue ?
This is great video. I have an old Campy left crank arm that I can't throw away even though the threads are wrecked! What was the tapping tool you used?
+Ashley Leach Unior Pedal Tap and Thread Insert Set 9/16" www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001PTCKJO/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
You shouldn't turn the tool backwards when you are cutting the old threads out, running a cutting tool backwards quickly dulls it (the exception being taps to break the chips, no need to break the chips with a reamer or a drill!)
Hum? Helicoil’s description tells you to do it exactly like RJ is doing it in this video.
As said above, reaming tools shouldn't be turned in opposite direction.
Tapping tools (hand tapping) generally should be reversed periodically to break chips.
This tool is both a reaming, and a hand tapping tool in one.
For the amount of use your likely to see. It probably won't make any difference.
That's a great help. I just need more info of the product.
There was an Odyssey BMX stem that used a single bolt to clamp the stem and handlebar via wedges. It was an ingenious system, but it was a little annoying to get it right. In any case, the bolt threaded in to a spring thread inside one of the aluminum wedges. Why nobody else does this I have no idea, but after dealing with damaged threads on aluminum stuff I wish more manufacturers implemented the system.
Probably a helicoil.
Very informative video, thank you! I was looking for a way to fix the pedal for and exercise bike with a stripped pedal. You video is very good, although I will probably end up having to take it to a pro because I might mess it up. Thanks though :)
Thanks RJ! Loved the video which was very concise.
My right crank pedal threads are so stripped to the point i can insert my right pedal in and take it out without any turning action (basically the threads aren't even locking in on each other).
Do you think this method will still be able to fix it?
If I take it into a local bike shop, will they do this procedure for me?
Yes it will likely work. If your local bike shop has the tool.
what if you put some neat acid on the inserts instead of threadlocker?
What thread insert size did you use on your crank?
Size of tap for helicoil is 5/8-24？
Whats the unior kit & at how much?
Now what about the crank side?
That kit priced at $111 is a ripoff unless ur running pricey shop, looking at replacement instead
@Yard Sale Dale That's true, but for most people, this is a rare occurrence and only needs to be done occaisionally.
For those of us with expensive crank arms (my crank arms cost $480), paying $40 bucks at a bike shop is the best solution. If the cranks are cheap, then replacing would be the best option.
As the tools were expensive i bought a new crank arm, but even in that the thread stripped of 😑, what must be the problem?. And your videos are great helping many cyclists and mechanics 👏👌
The tool is expensive until you are working on a lot of bike and need to do this often.
@@RJTheBikeGuy even after replacing the new crank arm, faced the same problem.( i think the problem is with something else like pedal,)
Can you tell the reasons why this happens(threading stripping) please
Without having worked on the bike I can't really tell you. I have never had pedal threads just strip out. The case above was due to the pedal threads being seized due to galvanic corrosion, and were ripped out when removing pedal.
Chain lube is a poor substitute for tapping fluid. Threads need to be completely degreased for threadlocker to be it's most effective.
As I was watching I was thinking the same thing regarding clean up. Yeah, tapping fluid is better. More so though I watched as he applied lube to the pedal threads then using the same finger, you can still see oil on them, to apply the thread lock. When I apply thread lock I usually clean the threads first with degreaser then methylated spirits to ensure proper bonding, especially on what is effectively a permanent threaded insert. Regardless, this is a great video that clearly shows a technical bicycle repair and is done well.
RJ is a bit of a "hacker". But his videos are very educational in that he dissecst all the parts of the bicycle for us to see how they work. He also has some nice tips. But we have to correct some of his sloppiness. We can't expect perfection in a video.
I also laughed when he put oil on the inside of the helicoil and threadlock on the outside! Once you start screwing everything in, it's all gonna mix! Better to install helicoil in the crank arm first, let it dry, THEN install the pedal with some oil!
Do have other link these one is not working
My pedal is fine but have issue with the square joint which attach spindle and crank(actually is crank, spindle and a bolt). The crank socket which accept spindle is damaged. I guess the crank slips and ultimately loosen the bolt which keep it all together. is there a way to manage that? it's fine, even if it is a temporary fix .
That happens when you ride with the bolt loose. Replace it.
RJ The Bike Guy let me confirm, you mean replace the whole crank set, do you? However I am not able to get parts so also let me know if you have any other ideas.
I tried to put some rubber-sealing agent and it kept the joint intact for some 15 miles. This time I am going to use some cello tape and heat. Also I might just keep the wrench socket with me tighten the bolt after every 10 miles.
Thanks.
@@saurabht3540 Grease on those square taper spindles is what will usually ruin cranks. Shouldn't even let oil from your fingers touch the taper or the crank square. You might try getting the area completely clean and bone dry and use some red Loctite. Probably won't last long though. You do need a new crank arm. If you have a co-op or non-profit bike shop nearby, they probably have a bin on them, for a few bucks each.
I do BMX. I just stripped my first pedal. I'll probably strip many more from doing fakies and hops. That causes the most wear on them.
A little off topic: I'm trying to remove pedals from a 1973-ish Raleigh Competition that has TA Specialties cranks. The pedals are supposed to be Raleigh 501, but the only mark I can find is, "Made in France." The drive side pedal was easy to loosen, but after unscrewing a few turns, starts to bind up again. I didn't want to force things and am looking for info. It doesn't feel cross threaded. Any ideas? I wish I could put my old Look or Shimano clipless pedals on this crank, but I assume it has French threads... Thank you for your excellent videos.
Make sure you are turning them the correct way. ua-cam.com/video/Tia5y9kfVk0/v-deo.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy I swap pedals around on bikes frequently, so I'm confident I've got the direction right. There's something odd about this one. Are there any pedals that you don't just simply unscrew? Some sort of other locking? I've never seen such a thing. If not, then I just need to wrench it off and hope it doesn't chase a new set of messed up threads.
Did it hold up ..Or did it break again ,,
Thank you for sharing this.
were did you pick up the clamp u used on the dummy thread to get extra leverage!!!!
Not sure what you mean?
Where we can order the bushing and the hand top.whqt is the exact specification?pls help me..
Go on Amazon and search for unior pedal inserts.
Helicoils have saved a lot of otherwise hopeless situations over the years. What is the approximate cost of the kit? (if you don't mind telling us)
+Tom Wilkin A little over $100. Here is the set: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001PTCKJO/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
+RJ The Bike Guy, if you only use it a couple times, it will pay for itself.
Where can I get all the stuff I need to fix my right arm crank
If you are just doing one, take it to a shop.
Great vid ! What is the size of the tool that you used ?
Link is in description.
Any chance I could send a set of cranks to you for you to perform this service. Been to three bike shops here (in Los Angeles) and no one will touch them. I’m reluctant to do it myself because they’re for a Nordictrack and, as far as I know, can’t be replaced. Would be happy to pay.
whats the kit number?
I bought a used Haro off CL for my son and it looks like they installed the pedals on the wrong sided which stripped the threads. Would you be interested in doing this to his crank and install the pedals or should I just go to a local shop?
Talk to the guys at your local bike shops. Some may have the tools, some may not.
Hello, is that kit for a 9/16 pedal thread?
Probably yes
Good video RJ!
What was that tool you used to clamp the tap with and turn? It have you lots of leverage
+Rixter An adjustable tap handle.
Unfortunately, the regular 1/2" tap handle you can buy at hardware stores and auto parts stores can't fit this tap/reamer tool, so that adds to the cost of this procedure. I'm lucky enough to have a great LBS owned by friends who let me borrow their tools.
would helicoils fix this problem too? or don't they have reverse threads?
+neil crompton Maybe. Not sure.
would the heli coils hold up the the abuse a pedal gets?
+neil crompton you would have to use a 5/8 pedal tap to make the hole bigger then loctite the helicoil to the crank arm, then insert the pedal , and the helicoil+loctite should hold up against abuse, check amazon for all the stuff you need its all there
amazon doesn't sell anything to australia,iv'e tried to buy there before & they won't deliver.
Hi RJ mate, love your videos. Have you ever resolved an issue with the threads of road shoes as I've wrecked mine as they've had too much use and at times been over tightened. Its a really difficult video to find!
Can l use them for other side where the spindlee came out from bottom bracket?? Thanks
No idea what you are talking about.
hi..on the crankarm there is two thread hole one is for pedal and another one for bottom bracket lock nut. Can l use those tool both side?!
@@benhaj7662 This tool has nothing to do with the bottom bracket. And won't work for anything on the bottom bracket.
Awesome video!!! Concisely detailed and informative. Kudos RJ!!! Thanks!
where do you buy the tools from?
Amazon.com.
I cannot find those 9/16 x 20 inserts anywhere!
Amazon.com
where can i get those tools
Link in description.
Cool that you did it, but cheaper/easier/faster to just buy a new crankset if you don't already have the materials laying around, which you obviously do because you're RJ The Bike Guy.
The problem is the cost of the kit. The big question is if you managw to make the hole straight.
If you work on alot of bikes then it might be worthwhile. Otherwise take it to a shop that has the tool.
I hope I am never facing this problem but now I know how to fix, all I need is more tools! Thx
+bob meadows More tools is good! :D
I am a total layman when it comes to bicycle parts and repairs. Anyways, I am here b/c my crank arms slip when I pedal my bike. So, the crank arms themselves seem securely attached. It's just when I pedal my bike to move forward, they catch a little, but mostly slip.....
And, like I said since I know very little about bikes, I am not sure what the issue is. Can you offer and ideas and suggestions?
Thanks!
Sorry, from your description, I have no idea. Take it to a bike shop and have someone look at it.
Shawn Chamberlain I would guess from what you've written here that your chain is worn out. If it's slipping like that, it could be really worn, so be prepared to replace the chain and cassette/freewheel. It is possible the chainrings will need changing too.
I've had some success with screwing the pedal from the back side of the crank arm
Loved the video! Would you mind linking to that tool in the description of the video or in this comment?
Thanks!
+Logan Ebeling I added it to the comments.
in need of this kit :/
So that give the crank extra lifetime, nice
RJ thanks! What the proper name of the sleeve. Are they on eBay?
Unior Pedal Thread Insert.
Thank you , appreciate the quick response
this works on a hollowtech crank arm?
The fact that is Hollowtech has nothing to do with the pedals!! Are they threaded? Yes. It will work. Think about it!
whats the exact name of the tool you used to twist the pedal tap to create the threads?
It's a tap handle.
Ok dude. I bought a bike for my wife and I had trouble installing one of the pedals. I managed to get it in but here we are 6 months later and the pedal fell off while riding. It looks like I crossed the threads and it stripped the threads of BOTH the crank arm AND pedals. It seems I can only find info on fixing one or the other but not one on how do deal with both at the same time. Any ideas?
Not sure how you messed up the pedal threads. Generally they are like Cro-Mo steel, the arm is aluminum. Sometimes aluminum gets embedded in the steel threads which can be cleaned off. ua-cam.com/video/YxTVuwRzOAo/v-deo.html Probably the easiest it replace the cranks, and see if you can reuse the pedals.
Hey,the square taper part on my non-drive side crank is worn and my crank will wobble.Is there any way to fix it?
Not really. Replace it.
How much cost the tools in compare to the new crank arms?
Depends on the crank arms. The tool is expensive but will do multiple cranks arms.
I can’t find this kit anywhere...anyone have advice?
Link in description.
How much did the kit cost, these are helicoils, are they not?
They are not helicoils. Around $100. But you might be able to find a shop that has a kit. Or if you work on a bunch of bike, the kit might be worth it.
I asked my local bike shop if they do this kind of work. They ended putting the insert crookedly, and now is kind of tortuous to pedal...
Is there anything left to do? What do you say? :/. Thanks for the video!
Sorry. Probably can't fix it.
I wonder how they managed that? That tool is pretty fool proof. Maybe your crank arm got bent? Either way, there's no way to really fix that.
many thanks for this useful video. I really need it now. thanks.
What is the name of the kit being used for this repair?
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B001PTCKJO/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Soo are these for M14 x 1.25 pedal thread ?
Most pedals have 9/16" x 20 tpi threads. Pedals for one-piece cranks are 1/2" x 20 tpi. Older French bicycles used a 14 mm x 1.25 mm thread, but these are quite rare.
would this work on carbon cranks with aluminum inserts?
NO!
But your bike shop can probably replace the insert.
What should i do to my crank.It keeps getting loose even after i thighten it
+Trippin Josh Since I have no details I can't even begin to answer.
+Trippin Josh It is likely rounded instead of tapered so you will have to replace it. That happens when you ride on a loose crank.
Don't bother trying to fix it. This happened to one of my wife's bikes and I tried a dozen fixes. Just buy a new crank. It's the only way.
Need a new bench Vice nice video interesting
Gr8 vid!
Simple & to the point!
6 sets of inserts plus the taps for $120. About 20/set. If you wanted this fine in a shop I guess you'd pay about $40 plus labour. Could be $100 total. Those had better be some nice cranks to warrant that expense!
Good information. That tool and part is very expensive wow. Nice job though.
For a one off, it's expensive. If you work on a lot of bikes, it might be worthwhile.
left anticlockwise? and right clockwise?
Right side has right hand threading, the left side has left hand threading.
Very helpful tutorial. The only issue is the price of the parts. Better off buying a new crank arm.
If you are doing one, then yeah, buying a new crank would be better. If you might be doing multiple, like in a shop, then the tool becomes reasonable.
Good point. Might just drop down to lbs to get my fixed.
Hey there, great video, thanks!!
Somebody can share place to buy only the threads? Greetings y'all
Ebay or amazon sometimes.
I'll check an eye. Was repairing bearings on my pedal, put it back on the crank arm. It seems I didn't managed quite well, bearings blocked the pedal from spinning and kinda ruined crankarms thread ;(