I forgot to mention: when you store wooden planes, you should knock the wedge free and store the plane with the wedge pretty loose. Just finger-tight is good. The plane might swell or shrink while it's sitting and you don't want it under tension while that's happening. Otherwise, there's nothing special about storing these. Just keep the dust off 'em.
Tool reviews on free tools? If I send a 40$ metallic hand plane will you do a quick review to show it's value. I'm using it out of the box, no sharpening, no flattening, first time user after watching your videos for a year or more, wow it has been awhile, lol. I find I have the ability to do fine work with the cheap plane if I take my time with the adjustments. FUNCTIONAL TOOL, STRAIGHT OUT OF BOX, ONLY 37 DOLLARS, AND A LIFETIME WARENTY. Frankly the handle came a little loose and rattles after a few hours work but I'm sure I can just tighten the screw when I do all the sanding and sharpening, however this does not affect the use as it's still held strong. The issue is probably from a cheap wood mystery asian conifer handle; white wood. But the plan works fine and I'm watching paint dry on a furniture piece. If you would messege me I'd greatly appreciate it, and the Plane I am talking about is the Buck Bros 9"Adjustable Hand Plane. It's got crappy video reviews so a good video would be nice for people like me who saw a real metallic plane in stock at Home Depot for 37 bucks. I also bought Buck Bros cheapest chisels in a 3 pack for 12$. Sharp out of box, high quality steel, learned how to use the plane and chisels without touching them, in fact, with one chisel I thought I'd see if the wet dry paper would make it sharper than it already was, and It still works perfect with a messed up edge. Both Buck Bros tools have proven to me to be perfectly capable of time working, straight from the box. I didn't even have to try putting wd-40 on the plane base. Buck Bros has a 10.0 out of 10 review for woodworking on a budget. I wasted some money on tools like a stanley rasp (not heavy duty, broke during rough use) and found out all I I need to throw simple black stained furniture together is a saw, hammer, and plane. Please messege me as I thinker I'd be a great success story from a viewer. I made functional furniture as cheap as possible, without a bench, with out even sharpening, and for free, with moldy and water damaged wood free from apartment basement. Woods got screw holes and everything that makes junk wood. With under 100$ of tools and you're videos I know where I stand with woodworking, I WONT BUY FURNITURE AND IM TRYING NOT TO SPEND ANY MONEY MAKING IT😂😂😂 Too easy and simple to pass up, I just need to throw together a workbench with wood glue and free 2x4s and I can make any furniture I need free now, next is a bookshelf. The funny thing is now that I've made something on a rigged workshop setup, Id rather put off building a bench, just so I can hurry up and build my furniture. Again message me (if you've read this far I hope you plan too😂), I can send, pics, video call, or anything you'd like I just don't want to see a highly functional 40$ plane be ignored, along with other ideas I've had over the course of being a subscriber. Thanks for your time!!!
I have to say that I noticed you placing your planes blade down. In woodwork classes at school in the 70s if a teacher saw us put a plane blade down we would get a smack round the head. We were tols always rest a plane on its edge. I have always remembered that even though I was not one to get a smack round the head 🙄
@@tinytonymaloney7832 resting on side messes with how the plane iron sits (and you then have to readjust it)...also you can cut your hand on it...i am not an expert at all but i always rest plane on the sole and never on the side and I have no issues...whenever i have placed it on the side (when done shooting or just being lazy) the iron meeds lateral adjustment...so..for what my novice oppinions are worth
@@aarondaniels629 makes total sense I suppose, but it was draconian at school, any excuse to clout a school kid in them days. I usually lay mine on a piece of card. I keep each one in a plastic tupperware type box with a slight WD 40 sprayed heavy tissue paper and one of those anti-moisture tea bags. Yes I know, I should get out more 😀😀😀
Hi Rex. This is unrelated to this video and you probably won’t see this either but I just won an auction on eBay for 17 auger bits (varying sizes) for my brace that you inspired me to get. I am 16 years old and want to get into hand tool woodworking. You’re videos have helped me tremendously. Thank you
The first half of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
"Oh my god! Something is ... completely different!" Rex proceeds to go full berserk mode with that plane. I liked that moment. It conveys a crystal clear message about body mechanics and working ergonomics. Aha moment right there! 😃
Funny thing - when your videos were all about metal Bailey Planes I had Mathieson wooden planes the same type as you shewed in this video. I then acquired transitionals and they have been my daily drivers and my No.26 Jack travels to job-sites with me for things like planing down doors. Just as you released these two videos on using wooden planes I acquired my first No.5 Metal Bailey plane. Oh, and I entirely agree with you. The No.6 is really too heavy to be used as a fore-plane on dressing rough-sawn wood. No.5 Jack or a wooden-bodied plane is so much better. My technical college uses No.6 planes and I am pretty sure it is to stop students from stealing tools.
Just goes to show how we all see things differently, I use my no6 for nearly everything. I love it, mind you it never leaves the workshop and I weigh about 230lbs. Regards Jim UK.
Rex - You really outdid yourself on this one! That was very educational. Thanks so much for all the time & effort you put into producing this amazing content!
This is truly an amazing historical lesson. I remember my now 96-year-old cabinet maker father standing EXACTLY like you demonstrated. As a kid, I always wondered why he did that. Now I know!
Hey Rex, had a thought to modify a square side wood plane around 12-16 inches long to use as a shooting plane and move the handle 90 degrees. Thoughts, enjoy your bringing new knowledge to us hobbyists
I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: you are a master communicator, Rex! Bravo on yet another masterful educational video-the kind that is fun to watch as well.
"We are going to do more" Rex, my guy, I can't wait. I dream of making my own set of wooden planes. I am stoked. I would love to see you revisit your router plane....something with a more traditional bit and some of the nicer features! (I dont know if you appreciate the requests for content here, but until you tell me to stop, I will keep being a pest - I annoy because I love). Thanks again for the excellent quality! And dont think I didnt notice the visual effects you put in the vid. The quality is ever improving.
just picked up a 20 inch fore plane with a 2 3/8 Sandusky Steel iron just getting it cleaned up now. Thank you very much for the lesson on what to look for and how to clean it up. Cost me $20.
The "physics" reason for why the iron comes back when you hit the body is actually not that complicated. You can picture that because of inertia, the iron wants to stay in place, but the body is going forward. So, the relative result is the iron going back, but what you are actually doing is "advancing the body" (which is a weird way of phrasing it). You can think of an analog thing: if a car hits your car from behind, you are going to feel that you are getting thrown back in the car, when what's really happening is your car being accelerated forward. (in that analogy, you are the iron and the car is the body of the plane)
@@WayneStidolph Because the iron is oriented at 45°, there is a component of the downward movement which is aligned with the iron (as much as there is a component of the forward movement when you tap on the back of plane that is aligned with the blade). If someone hit you in your car from right behind, you'll be thrown to the right and backward, you don't need to be perfectly aligned
Hey Rex! I think I figured out something about using those big Stanley number 8s. I recently stopped using my 8 after I got a 6, for jointing for violin making. Then today, I took a table outside and turned on its side, to straighten out one edge, end grain of 3 jointed boards, about a meter long, about 2 cm wide. Had trouble with my block plain, so I grabbed the number 8 and it worked wonderfully. I think the secret is to have the plane and the work surface low, below your waist, so that your upper body leans over the plane, with both of you arms downward. In this posture, the number 8 was easy to control, I did not loose control of the balance of the tool, which is what happens when I worked with the tool above level of my waist.
The really nice thing to me about wooden planes is the ease of entry. A used iron bought online and a decent piece of firewood will get you a surprisingly competent piece of equipment.
This is an incredibly good presentation. You should consider this as a TED talk...history, woodwork, perfect! (P.S. Just used a plane for the first time in years for a project and forgot how useful they are.).
Good video. Wooden planes sure are fun... Another benefit is if you drop one and you get unlucky... you can make a new one out of a piece of scrap wood.
The "scrub plane" is optimized for making wooden gutters. I've only ever see one piece of wooden gutter, and that was in Merced years ago. The wooden gutter was beautifully molded externally. The gutter itself was about three to four inches deep. The external molding was reflected in the galvanized iron gutter that replaced them. Wooden gutter is still manufactured for "in kind" restoration on historical Victorian houses. Some of that pretty moulding along the base at pediments over porches for instance are really wooden gutters.
after seeing all you said to look for, no way I'd ever buy something like this online. I love your channel, I think I've said it before on another video, I love hand tools. Power tools are convenient and fast, but there's just a zen-space I go to with hand tools and really prefer them. I'm not in a hurry to build something; it's building it that I'm mainly enjoying, after-all :) Thanks for sharing!
A jack plane is half way between a scrub and finish plane. SO it means you can use it for either rough work or to finish. If you want to work on very rough wood you use a scrub plane or for a fine finish a smoothing plane. So you could do everything with a Jack plane. I could also do everything with a smoothing plane such as a number 4.
Rex, thanks for this. I got a jack plane as part of a job lot of tools and, after a bit of restoration, it is working better than my Stanley No.5. I'm loving it!
I first saw Paul Sellers doing that in his video and realized what a classy thing it was to acknowledge people from all over the world are watching these videos.
You mention that many people think of wooden planes as junk or decor: You might be amused by an antique shop find of mine: it was an early- to mid-20th century TOY plane, from a child's toy tool set. In those days, "toy" tool sets often contained functional tools: claw hammers with small steel heads, small saws with teeth cut for PULLING, instead of the standard Anglo/American push saw, and small, wooden-bodied olanes with a simple steel iron. I bought one, just to see what it would do, put an edge on it, and found that it actually does work!
Thanks a lot for this and last week's videos! I inherited more than 30 wooden hand planes from my grandfather, and I am about halfway through restoring them. I love using them, and your videos taught me some new really useful knowledge and technique.
UK lockdown has forced me to buy wooden planes online and exactly as you predicted the lack of visual inspection results in tools needing far more clean-up. There are rewards to be found in the satisfaction of bringing a far gone tool back to life, but it's costly in time. I've been building a collection of restored vintage woodworking hand tools over the last two years and I'd estimate around 80% of my workshop time has been spent on tool restoration. I'll soon have a complete collection of quality tools that I know and understand intimately but this path is a long-term investment of time that the newcomer needs to anticipate. Now hurry up and unlock the timber merchants so that I can handpick materials to loose my restored tools on, they're very sharp and very hungry! Brilliantly instructive and entertaining video, I'll by trying out that stance. Thank you!
I finally, FINALLY found a good wood jointer after like two years of looking. Every flea market and antique store wanted like $150-200 for beat to crap examples. I finally found one in a really fancy antique store, where one stall had a few for $150-200 in rough shape, but another stall had a gorgeous one with barely any use, a nearly dead-square/flat sole, no checking, an original iron and breaker, and wedge. The handle wasn't even loose. $35. The iron had some pitting and an ugly hand-done scrub grind, but after fixing that and taking 1/64th off the sole with my power jointer to flatten it, it's so freaking nice to use. I wish I'd have found one sooner.
I’ve tried the grip yesterday on a rabbet plane and it’s amazing. Thanks for showing I might start use wooden planes after all 😁 I have a bunch of vintage planes sitting on the shelf.
The first European plane you showed, I found brand new condition at a thrift store for 5 bucks in police state Switzerland...one of best my purchases just wanted to share so y’all can sleep better tonight;)
At first view I had no idea how informative this video would be. Wow! This video hits the mark. I am in the midst of refurbishing 2 wooden planes for my own use. All of this video is helpful including the proper stance to get the most out of my human effort. Thanks for the help and the great way you explain the process.
I couldnt find a no 7 or 8 jointer plane locally and new ones like lie Nielsen cost upwards of 400 dollars ... So i went with a wooden jointer . Found one locally for just 15 euros . I cleaned it up with steel wool and mineral spirit and flattened the sole with a no5 and reground the iron and honed it ... It worked on the first try and got the edge of a board REALLY flat ... Wooden planes work amazingly well and you can get them for super cheap compared to the metal versions ... Your video that shows what to look for when buying wooden planes really helps to pick a good one to start with
I am from Germany, used Stanley planes go for up to 150€ here.....but sometimes you can find a whole set of wooden planes for as cheap as 30€, because people really oft think, it's too old for use and sell it as "decoration". Thank you for your videos on this subject, it helped a beginner like me a lot to get into woodworking, without spending a fortune on tools.
You know when i learned the trade 30 years ago , it was all machinery for everything . We had only a #4 or #4 1/2 just to practice sharpening on a grinder and practicing planing edges and faces . It was only to prepare the surfaces for finishing 🤓🥸 At that time we got very little info of how it was made back then . I’m so happy now that you talk about it , i’m lerning alot and loving it thank you 😁👍🏼🇨🇦
You really do understand how to answer a lot of questions in a short amount of time. I struggle to find videos which are as informative as yours, and that answer so many questions. Keep up the great work!
My dad gave me some old woodenplanes, but they dont work well and need restoring. Your videos have given me the motivation and knowledge to make them work again, which im really excited about. Thank you so much!
I bought couple of old wooden planes like these because they were cheap and are old. I never intended on using them, but after your video I'm going to dig 'em out of storage and make 'em work! Years ago I saw an old wooden plane with a dovetailed lignum vitae base and foolishly did not buy it, as I suspect an vitae base is rare.
Yup, really excellent. I've not seen that planing position before, but it does make some kind of sense . . . might need to raise my planing height somewhat. I still need a jack plane, so I'll be off next week to the local antique mart and see what I can find. mask on face of course!!
When it comes to smoothing planes the krendov style feels much better in the hand then the old coffin style. I have used a ECE block plane as a smoothing plane and that feels awsome. Short chinese style smoothers also feels great.
Interesting point about the stance. I always seem to learn something new in your videos. I have a small set of wood bodied planes. Getting them up and running is something that's been on my list for a while.
This is my favorite video of yours, Rex. Thanks for the direct and enjoyable teaching style, and thanks for encouraging me to tune up my freebie wooden try plane.
Great show, Rex... Yeah, all metal planes took over because "cheap" and "convenient"... AND with the Industrial Revolution, a LOT of people forgot about the craftsmanship and the value of completely custom and unique work. We (humans) became conditioned to appreciate stuff because it was stamped out by the thousands of units a day, and we moved away from the unique, the customized, the oddities that were pre-industrial... It's coming back a bit, though... AND one of the truly AWESOME parts of wooden planes is that you CAN customize them. It's especially true when you start building your own from time to time, because you can build it however YOU like... and for the particular job YOU need to do over and over. Like that fore-plane you had that was customized for mouldings or trim, likely to hog out material for a lightly curved recess to make the trim-pieces or mouldings of a particular room or house "different". I'd likely crow delightedly over such a thing, and probably use it fairly often, rigging guides or jigs to place the curved recess to very specific (matching) alignments on every board... There's a few videos on YT about a "trick" rig for a tablesaw to do that, using the rip-fence with boards attached to run at an angle over the blade instead of the normal "edge on" direction... With only about an eighth inch or so of depth at a time, this can put a curve on your trim and moulding boards, but you have to set up the saw and run the WHOLE batch at one time, because a rig like that is never lined up exactly the same twice... unless you build a complete outfit for that purpose and then keep it... it's own accessory. ...AND if we're all honest, that whole "trick" set-up on a Table-saw??? It just seems dangerous as hell to me... I can understand it, but I think I'd rather glue and clamp a piece of wood to a hand-plane and then shape the new sole AND the iron as needed to accomplish the curve... It just seems "more sensible" if a little more work for the same net result... Almost any straight-edge and a few clamps would work as a "guide rail" and with a little practice, I'm confident almost anybody could turn out mouldings and shaped trim or accents that you just can't buy or order anywhere else... I'm sure you know all this... if you think about it. I just like to share... AND in case there are those who weren't sure what the H anyone would really want with a curved soleplate on an otherwise good fore-plane... Nobody said that the only legitimate use in a plane is making everything flatter... or smoother... curves, grooves, and details can be just as purposeful and perfect as flat and smooth. ;o)
I like many of your videos, but this one takes the cake. Thank you for your lovely content and great insights. You make it a lot easier to understand the many aspect of woodworking in context. It's almost like having an elderly carpenter in the family that you can ask questions all the time
I’m set to get three wooden planes from a family member soon, with these last two videos I think I can actually tune them up and make them work! Thanks Rex!
Thanks for the advice on using the joiner plane. I have a 24 inch plane and using it the way you showed made a big difference. My plane set consists of a wood joiner plane, a steel jack plane, a wood smoother, and a steel block. I find that I use my wood smoother for almost everything.
This stance, albeit logical, gave me good portion of laugh. Remainded me a lot of Eastern Martial Arts teachers, but with proper explanation why to use this very specific and awkward to the fist glance position. Thanks a lot, as usual. You'r doing great job, Mr. Krueger.
Great Video! My first (and so far only) plane is one of those continental europe ones, with the elephant trunk foregrip. But instead of going with the german one for 130, i went for an eastern europe manufacture for 65 (exactly half!). It's excellent. This plane, with the help of the first video you made about wooden planes, just slices through wood like it's butter. Hardwood, super soft construction lumber, it does it all cleanly.
I have a Stanley 4, a Record 5 1/2, a wooden scrub and a wooden long jointer (32") and I really enjoy the mix. Great content as always, Rex, you're the History Channel of woodworking
The Amish I with with all use power tools but asked me to come over and build them a simple countertop. I brought my plane with me along with chisel and handsaw. Was the first time they had seen those tools used. The dad however had some old wood planes that his Amish grandfather used to use. One was as foreplane, the other was a router place for doing round overs. Thinking of the history and the pieces those planes had touched really took me back. That foreplane though...WOW, that knife had seen more nails than most of the pole barns we build lol.
My great-uncle was master carpenter foreman working in the coachbuilding workshop of the railway works before WW2, and I've got all his old tools - there are several wooden planes amongst his kit which I feel I'm going to have to dig out and investigate now...
I'm start, your videos are amazing. I know yet how to use my planes buy on fleat market (In France, the cheapest way to find plane). Yesterday I find a toothed iron , so now, I kow now its use. I pratice building your lightweight workbench.
Rex, WOW, I hope this video helps new wood workers as it has me. I was side tracked by the transital wood planes that do work but are still lacking somthing. Yes you get the feed back when pushing the plane but still missing somthing, and dont drop it , dont ask. A wood plane is the way to go
I agree that the coffin smoothing planes are a little different to use over a Stanley #4. I solved that problem by simply using the same stance and arm technique that you show with the jack and jointer. It is a bit weird at first but it makes using a coffin plane much easier. My Stanley #4 & #5 hardly ever come out anymore other than to true up one of my 4 wooden planes. I also have a Sandusky #26 transitional which is equivalent to a Stanley #5. I restored that last year and it turned out to be a great addition.
You just answered a lot of questions I had in my mind. I'm completely new on woodworking and you absolutely clear my mind on this topic. Love the presentation too, as a teacher I really admire people who communicate information so clearly.
over the last couple years i acquired a lot of wooden planes here in germany. mostly in the style of the ECE ones. i also got some new metal planes (because used metal planes are quite rare here) and i actually prefer the wooden ones. the iron adjustment is actually easier for me because i'm always having problems with backing out the iron with the metal planes. but i think this is mostly personal preference. thanks for the video rex.
Have you planed in some time to upgrade the tool wall behind you? Nothing really wrong with it i just remember that you was talking in the live stream to upgrade it.
@@RexKrueger I was HOPING that's the direction you would go. So looking forward to the tool chest build...the six board chest seemed like a natural lead-in.
Thank you so much to take time for these history lessons and usage tips for these kind of tools. You feel passionate and your enthusiasm is contagious. I don’t miss any of your video. Great job! (From France)
That was a fantastic video, I've learned loads and been doing wood work for years. Unfortunately the only way to buy anything at the moment seems to be on line, but I have been lucky, I have some great vintage wooden planes in incredible condition, and over 100 years old purchased recently. Anyway you're a real talented presenter, U.K.
Great video Rex thanks. So idea in the making of wooden plans.... For home made irons. Get some spring steal. A member of our church owns a hitch and wire company and the spring on trailers are perfect. I would image most of these type shops would give you a broken spring for free if not like 5 dollars. There would be enough steal in one to do a lot of irons.
If I may be so bold as to make a couple recommendations here... 1. The ECE planes are excellent. I struggle a bit with the smoother but it may be that I'm a lefty trying to use a right handed plane...left handed. Their moving fillester plane (different show) is phenomenal! I reach for that over my Stanley 78 every time. I also very much like their jointer plane which has a Stanley like tote on it. I know Rex mentioned that Amazon sells them but if you prefer to shop elsewhere, Highland Woodworking and Peck Tools sell them as well. 2. If you want a more traditional Anglo-American style plane new out of the box...search Crown Plane Company on Etsy. I purchased their jack plane not too long ago and it is a spectacular plane. A little more expensive than ECE and more than buying vintage but there was NO work to it. I literally tapped the iron in and made very nice shavings. Also if you're into this sort of thing he's an individual craftsman. 3. I received a Lee Valley plane adjusting hammer for Christmas that is excellent. Its brass on one side and wood on the other so you can use the brass to tap the iron in and the wood to tap the wedge. And the price is quite reasonable. Thanks for the great content Rex! Much appreciated.
I'm not a big wooden plane user, but I've often wanted to learn more and to buy a few to use on upcoming projects. Thanks for sharing this info! Time to channel my inner Roy Underhill ;)
Excellent video Rex! Good point about the timeline and Stanley style planes being kind of a "new" thing. My wooden planes came from auction sales by the pail or from the dump. Cannot get much cheaper.........
The grip and stance you started demonstrating at 18:45 might also work on a coffin plane and even a metal plane with the front knob (I think I try it on a board of European larch in the next days)
Great video Rex! If you want to keep the momentum going on the wooden planes how about a video on finding, restoring and using wooden plow planes and their cousins?
Most of those planes are gone. My goon woodworking pal found a Noris smoother in a bin somewhere. Talk about pearls to swine. But that was decades ago. There was a big period around 1980 when there were books on reconditioning tools. I have several of these. But it is a lot faster to make a plane than to recondition one. I think that part of the reason for reconditioning tools was that a lot of the guys who were into that did not have decent shops, often on purpose. I did seminars on plane making around 1980, and I came up with 45 minutes to make a plane if one had the blade, and 90 to make one with a blade made from a file. That does not include all the shaping, or the application of finish, but one can make a plane to do something, and get the first cut in 45 minutes. All the above is why recently we saw all these great companies come out with new planes of the old type. They realized there just weren't enough antiques to supply the explosion in new woodworkers.
Rex I really loved this video. I´ve became like a fan of the channel. I have one of the longer wooden planes that inherited from my grandfather (who I couldn´t get to know). Those little tips you gave me will be used to disassemble and restore it. I hope I could get it to its former glory. Greetings from Argentina
Love the wooden plane videos. Looking forward to seeing your take on making one of these. I have a bunch of old bi-metal plane irons I picked up cheap from a tool collector who lost the plane bodies to a flood. I'd donate an iron or two if you want for a build video.
I forgot to mention: when you store wooden planes, you should knock the wedge free and store the plane with the wedge pretty loose. Just finger-tight is good. The plane might swell or shrink while it's sitting and you don't want it under tension while that's happening. Otherwise, there's nothing special about storing these. Just keep the dust off 'em.
Tool reviews on free tools? If I send a 40$ metallic hand plane will you do a quick review to show it's value. I'm using it out of the box, no sharpening, no flattening, first time user after watching your videos for a year or more, wow it has been awhile, lol. I find I have the ability to do fine work with the cheap plane if I take my time with the adjustments. FUNCTIONAL TOOL, STRAIGHT OUT OF BOX, ONLY 37 DOLLARS, AND A LIFETIME WARENTY. Frankly the handle came a little loose and rattles after a few hours work but I'm sure I can just tighten the screw when I do all the sanding and sharpening, however this does not affect the use as it's still held strong. The issue is probably from a cheap wood mystery asian conifer handle; white wood. But the plan works fine and I'm watching paint dry on a furniture piece. If you would messege me I'd greatly appreciate it, and the Plane I am talking about is the Buck Bros 9"Adjustable Hand Plane. It's got crappy video reviews so a good video would be nice for people like me who saw a real metallic plane in stock at Home Depot for 37 bucks. I also bought Buck Bros cheapest chisels in a 3 pack for 12$. Sharp out of box, high quality steel, learned how to use the plane and chisels without touching them, in fact, with one chisel I thought I'd see if the wet dry paper would make it sharper than it already was, and It still works perfect with a messed up edge. Both Buck Bros tools have proven to me to be perfectly capable of time working, straight from the box. I didn't even have to try putting wd-40 on the plane base. Buck Bros has a 10.0 out of 10 review for woodworking on a budget. I wasted some money on tools like a stanley rasp (not heavy duty, broke during rough use) and found out all I I need to throw simple black stained furniture together is a saw, hammer, and plane. Please messege me as I thinker I'd be a great success story from a viewer. I made functional furniture as cheap as possible, without a bench, with out even sharpening, and for free, with moldy and water damaged wood free from apartment basement. Woods got screw holes and everything that makes junk wood. With under 100$ of tools and you're videos I know where I stand with woodworking, I WONT BUY FURNITURE AND IM TRYING NOT TO SPEND ANY MONEY MAKING IT😂😂😂 Too easy and simple to pass up, I just need to throw together a workbench with wood glue and free 2x4s and I can make any furniture I need free now, next is a bookshelf. The funny thing is now that I've made something on a rigged workshop setup, Id rather put off building a bench, just so I can hurry up and build my furniture. Again message me (if you've read this far I hope you plan too😂), I can send, pics, video call, or anything you'd like I just don't want to see a highly functional 40$ plane be ignored, along with other ideas I've had over the course of being a subscriber. Thanks for your time!!!
can't wait for more plane builds!!!
I have to say that I noticed you placing your planes blade down. In woodwork classes at school in the 70s if a teacher saw us put a plane blade down we would get a smack round the head. We were tols always rest a plane on its edge. I have always remembered that even though I was not one to get a smack round the head 🙄
@@tinytonymaloney7832 resting on side messes with how the plane iron sits (and you then have to readjust it)...also you can cut your hand on it...i am not an expert at all but i always rest plane on the sole and never on the side and I have no issues...whenever i have placed it on the side (when done shooting or just being lazy) the iron meeds lateral adjustment...so..for what my novice oppinions are worth
@@aarondaniels629 makes total sense I suppose, but it was draconian at school, any excuse to clout a school kid in them days. I usually lay mine on a piece of card. I keep each one in a plastic tupperware type box with a slight WD 40 sprayed heavy tissue paper and one of those anti-moisture tea bags. Yes I know, I should get out more 😀😀😀
Hi Rex. This is unrelated to this video and you probably won’t see this either but I just won an auction on eBay for 17 auger bits (varying sizes) for my brace that you inspired me to get. I am 16 years old and want to get into hand tool woodworking. You’re videos have helped me tremendously. Thank you
The first half of the ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
"Oh my god! Something is ... completely different!"
Rex proceeds to go full berserk mode with that plane.
I liked that moment. It conveys a crystal clear message about body mechanics and working ergonomics. Aha moment right there! 😃
This tip helped me too a lot.
Its amazing to see how different parts of the world came up with different designs to tackle the same task.
Yea and he only showed UK/USA and European style planes there are Japanese, Chinese and I'm sure Indian too
Funny thing - when your videos were all about metal Bailey Planes I had Mathieson wooden planes the same type as you shewed in this video. I then acquired transitionals and they have been my daily drivers and my No.26 Jack travels to job-sites with me for things like planing down doors. Just as you released these two videos on using wooden planes I acquired my first No.5 Metal Bailey plane.
Oh, and I entirely agree with you. The No.6 is really too heavy to be used as a fore-plane on dressing rough-sawn wood. No.5 Jack or a wooden-bodied plane is so much better. My technical college uses No.6 planes and I am pretty sure it is to stop students from stealing tools.
Ha! I used to carry a 6 to a shop I worked at. Damn thing weighed as much as the toolbox in my other hand.
I have a no6 and I have one set place for it a shouting bord.
Just goes to show how we all see things differently, I use my no6 for nearly everything. I love it, mind you it never leaves the workshop and I weigh about 230lbs. Regards Jim UK.
@@jlmfoy365 easy enough to use a no. 6 when you weigh about half its weight
@@wyssmaster good point, well made.
Rex - You really outdid yourself on this one! That was very educational. Thanks so much for all the time & effort you put into producing this amazing content!
You're so welcome!
Glad to see horned planes getting some love. If you have hand use problems (nerve damage, arthritis, etc.) horned planes are a life saver!
This is truly an amazing historical lesson. I remember my now 96-year-old cabinet maker father standing EXACTLY like you demonstrated. As a kid, I always wondered why he did that. Now I know!
Hey Rex, had a thought to modify a square side wood plane around 12-16 inches long to use as a shooting plane and move the handle 90 degrees. Thoughts, enjoy your bringing new knowledge to us hobbyists
I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: you are a master communicator, Rex! Bravo on yet another masterful educational video-the kind that is fun to watch as well.
And I`ve said it before and I`ll say it again --Rex`s writing gets better and better .
"We are going to do more" Rex, my guy, I can't wait. I dream of making my own set of wooden planes. I am stoked. I would love to see you revisit your router plane....something with a more traditional bit and some of the nicer features! (I dont know if you appreciate the requests for content here, but until you tell me to stop, I will keep being a pest - I annoy because I love). Thanks again for the excellent quality! And dont think I didnt notice the visual effects you put in the vid. The quality is ever improving.
Thanks for keeping hand tool use alive! In the UK, a 50 degree pitch was also referred to a a York pitch.
I don't know what I love most about you... The historical approach, the low cost aspect, or the skill centered attitude. You're awesome Rex
The shiny head. That's the most lovable part.
just picked up a 20 inch fore plane with a 2 3/8 Sandusky Steel iron just getting it cleaned up now. Thank you very much for the lesson on what to look for and how to clean it up. Cost me $20.
At 18:20 I watched you formulate that grip four times. That was brilliant, Rex.
The "physics" reason for why the iron comes back when you hit the body is actually not that complicated. You can picture that because of inertia, the iron wants to stay in place, but the body is going forward. So, the relative result is the iron going back, but what you are actually doing is "advancing the body" (which is a weird way of phrasing it).
You can think of an analog thing: if a car hits your car from behind, you are going to feel that you are getting thrown back in the car, when what's really happening is your car being accelerated forward. (in that analogy, you are the iron and the car is the body of the plane)
Then why does it work to tap the body downward, in the toe, as Rex mentioned?
@@WayneStidolph Because the iron is oriented at 45°, there is a component of the downward movement which is aligned with the iron (as much as there is a component of the forward movement when you tap on the back of plane that is aligned with the blade).
If someone hit you in your car from right behind, you'll be thrown to the right and backward, you don't need to be perfectly aligned
Hey Rex! I think I figured out something about using those big Stanley number 8s. I recently stopped using my 8 after I got a 6, for jointing for violin making. Then today, I took a table outside and turned on its side, to straighten out one edge, end grain of 3 jointed boards, about a meter long, about 2 cm wide. Had trouble with my block plain, so I grabbed the number 8 and it worked wonderfully. I think the secret is to have the plane and the work surface low, below your waist, so that your upper body leans over the plane, with both of you arms downward. In this posture, the number 8 was easy to control, I did not loose control of the balance of the tool, which is what happens when I worked with the tool above level of my waist.
The really nice thing to me about wooden planes is the ease of entry. A used iron bought online and a decent piece of firewood will get you a surprisingly competent piece of equipment.
This is an incredibly good presentation. You should consider this as a TED talk...history, woodwork, perfect! (P.S. Just used a plane for the first time in years for a project and forgot how useful they are.).
I'm happy to consider it....now to get the TED people to come calling.
Good video. Wooden planes sure are fun... Another benefit is if you drop one and you get unlucky... you can make a new one out of a piece of scrap wood.
Super Video. I own one of these german planes. Cheerio from Germany.
The "scrub plane" is optimized for making wooden gutters. I've only ever see one piece of wooden gutter, and that was in Merced years ago. The wooden gutter was beautifully molded externally. The gutter itself was about three to four inches deep. The external molding was reflected in the galvanized iron gutter that replaced them. Wooden gutter is still manufactured for "in kind" restoration on historical Victorian houses. Some of that pretty moulding along the base at pediments over porches for instance are really wooden gutters.
And any other big hollows. used one when making a pair of skiis,
after seeing all you said to look for, no way I'd ever buy something like this online. I love your channel, I think I've said it before on another video, I love hand tools. Power tools are convenient and fast, but there's just a zen-space I go to with hand tools and really prefer them. I'm not in a hurry to build something; it's building it that I'm mainly enjoying, after-all :)
Thanks for sharing!
My wooden Jack is the workhorse of my shop. My go to for nearly everything. Light, runs smooth, easily adjusted. Just works.
A jack plane is half way between a scrub and finish plane. SO it means you can use it for either rough work or to finish.
If you want to work on very rough wood you use a scrub plane or for a fine finish a smoothing plane.
So you could do everything with a Jack plane. I could also do everything with a smoothing plane such as a number 4.
Rex, thanks for this. I got a jack plane as part of a job lot of tools and, after a bit of restoration, it is working better than my Stanley No.5. I'm loving it!
Exceptional video! Thanks for putting up the metric sizes.
I first saw Paul Sellers doing that in his video and realized what a classy thing it was to acknowledge people from all over the world are watching these videos.
You mention that many people think of wooden planes as junk or decor: You might be amused by an antique shop find of mine: it was an early- to mid-20th century TOY plane, from a child's toy tool set. In those days, "toy" tool sets often contained functional tools: claw hammers with small steel heads, small saws with teeth cut for PULLING, instead of the standard Anglo/American push saw, and small, wooden-bodied olanes with a simple steel iron. I bought one, just to see what it would do, put an edge on it, and found that it actually does work!
Thanks a lot for this and last week's videos! I inherited more than 30 wooden hand planes from my grandfather, and I am about halfway through restoring them. I love using them, and your videos taught me some new really useful knowledge and technique.
UK lockdown has forced me to buy wooden planes online and exactly as you predicted the lack of visual inspection results in tools needing far more clean-up. There are rewards to be found in the satisfaction of bringing a far gone tool back to life, but it's costly in time. I've been building a collection of restored vintage woodworking hand tools over the last two years and I'd estimate around 80% of my workshop time has been spent on tool restoration. I'll soon have a complete collection of quality tools that I know and understand intimately but this path is a long-term investment of time that the newcomer needs to anticipate. Now hurry up and unlock the timber merchants so that I can handpick materials to loose my restored tools on, they're very sharp and very hungry! Brilliantly instructive and entertaining video, I'll by trying out that stance. Thank you!
I finally, FINALLY found a good wood jointer after like two years of looking. Every flea market and antique store wanted like $150-200 for beat to crap examples. I finally found one in a really fancy antique store, where one stall had a few for $150-200 in rough shape, but another stall had a gorgeous one with barely any use, a nearly dead-square/flat sole, no checking, an original iron and breaker, and wedge. The handle wasn't even loose. $35. The iron had some pitting and an ugly hand-done scrub grind, but after fixing that and taking 1/64th off the sole with my power jointer to flatten it, it's so freaking nice to use. I wish I'd have found one sooner.
I’ve tried the grip yesterday on a rabbet plane and it’s amazing. Thanks for showing I might start use wooden planes after all 😁 I have a bunch of vintage planes sitting on the shelf.
Once you start to get a feel for it you can adapt your grip for different purposes.
i have been doing woodworking since i was 10 years old. that means almost 40 years. despite that i find your explanation very useful.
The first European plane you showed, I found brand new condition at a thrift store for 5 bucks in police state Switzerland...one of best my purchases just wanted to share so y’all can sleep better tonight;)
Can I get a link? 😅
I think every country is now almost a police state with the nanny state mentality.
At first view I had no idea how informative this video would be. Wow! This video hits the mark. I am in the midst of refurbishing 2 wooden planes for my own use. All of this video is helpful including the proper stance to get the most out of my human effort. Thanks for the help and the great way you explain the process.
I couldnt find a no 7 or 8 jointer plane locally and new ones like lie Nielsen cost upwards of 400 dollars ... So i went with a wooden jointer . Found one locally for just 15 euros . I cleaned it up with steel wool and mineral spirit and flattened the sole with a no5 and reground the iron and honed it ... It worked on the first try and got the edge of a board REALLY flat ... Wooden planes work amazingly well and you can get them for super cheap compared to the metal versions ... Your video that shows what to look for when buying wooden planes really helps to pick a good one to start with
I am from Germany, used Stanley planes go for up to 150€ here.....but sometimes you can find a whole set of wooden planes for as cheap as 30€, because people really oft think, it's too old for use and sell it as "decoration". Thank you for your videos on this subject, it helped a beginner like me a lot to get into woodworking, without spending a fortune on tools.
You know when i learned the trade 30 years ago , it was all machinery for everything . We had only a #4 or #4 1/2 just to practice sharpening on a grinder and practicing planing edges and faces . It was only to prepare the surfaces for finishing 🤓🥸 At that time we got very little info of how it was made back then . I’m so happy now that you talk about it , i’m lerning alot and loving it thank you 😁👍🏼🇨🇦
You really do understand how to answer a lot of questions in a short amount of time. I struggle to find videos which are as informative as yours, and that answer so many questions. Keep up the great work!
My dad gave me some old woodenplanes, but they dont work well and need restoring. Your videos have given me the motivation and knowledge to make them work again, which im really excited about. Thank you so much!
I bought couple of old wooden planes like these because they were cheap and are old. I never intended on using them, but after your video I'm going to dig 'em out of storage and make 'em work! Years ago I saw an old wooden plane with a dovetailed lignum vitae base and foolishly did not buy it, as I suspect an vitae base is rare.
Yup, really excellent. I've not seen that planing position before, but it does make some kind of sense . . . might need to raise my planing height somewhat. I still need a jack plane, so I'll be off next week to the local antique mart and see what I can find. mask on face of course!!
When it comes to smoothing planes the krendov style feels much better in the hand then the old coffin style. I have used a ECE block plane as a smoothing plane and that feels awsome. Short chinese style smoothers also feels great.
Interesting point about the stance. I always seem to learn something new in your videos.
I have a small set of wood bodied planes. Getting them up and running is something that's been on my list for a while.
Just bought one because of you, and came here for checking out how to use them
This is my favorite video of yours, Rex. Thanks for the direct and enjoyable teaching style, and thanks for encouraging me to tune up my freebie wooden try plane.
Great show, Rex...
Yeah, all metal planes took over because "cheap" and "convenient"... AND with the Industrial Revolution, a LOT of people forgot about the craftsmanship and the value of completely custom and unique work. We (humans) became conditioned to appreciate stuff because it was stamped out by the thousands of units a day, and we moved away from the unique, the customized, the oddities that were pre-industrial...
It's coming back a bit, though... AND one of the truly AWESOME parts of wooden planes is that you CAN customize them. It's especially true when you start building your own from time to time, because you can build it however YOU like... and for the particular job YOU need to do over and over.
Like that fore-plane you had that was customized for mouldings or trim, likely to hog out material for a lightly curved recess to make the trim-pieces or mouldings of a particular room or house "different". I'd likely crow delightedly over such a thing, and probably use it fairly often, rigging guides or jigs to place the curved recess to very specific (matching) alignments on every board... There's a few videos on YT about a "trick" rig for a tablesaw to do that, using the rip-fence with boards attached to run at an angle over the blade instead of the normal "edge on" direction... With only about an eighth inch or so of depth at a time, this can put a curve on your trim and moulding boards, but you have to set up the saw and run the WHOLE batch at one time, because a rig like that is never lined up exactly the same twice... unless you build a complete outfit for that purpose and then keep it... it's own accessory.
...AND if we're all honest, that whole "trick" set-up on a Table-saw??? It just seems dangerous as hell to me... I can understand it, but I think I'd rather glue and clamp a piece of wood to a hand-plane and then shape the new sole AND the iron as needed to accomplish the curve... It just seems "more sensible" if a little more work for the same net result... Almost any straight-edge and a few clamps would work as a "guide rail" and with a little practice, I'm confident almost anybody could turn out mouldings and shaped trim or accents that you just can't buy or order anywhere else...
I'm sure you know all this... if you think about it. I just like to share... AND in case there are those who weren't sure what the H anyone would really want with a curved soleplate on an otherwise good fore-plane... Nobody said that the only legitimate use in a plane is making everything flatter... or smoother... curves, grooves, and details can be just as purposeful and perfect as flat and smooth. ;o)
You can also advance the iron by a sharp tap on the front face - gives good fine adjustment
I like many of your videos, but this one takes the cake. Thank you for your lovely content and great insights. You make it a lot easier to understand the many aspect of woodworking in context. It's almost like having an elderly carpenter in the family that you can ask questions all the time
I’m set to get three wooden planes from a family member soon, with these last two videos I think I can actually tune them up and make them work! Thanks Rex!
Thanks for the advice on using the joiner plane. I have a 24 inch plane and using it the way you showed made a big difference. My plane set consists of a wood joiner plane, a steel jack plane, a wood smoother, and a steel block. I find that I use my wood smoother for almost everything.
Superb comprehensive description
This stance, albeit logical, gave me good portion of laugh.
Remainded me a lot of Eastern Martial Arts teachers, but with proper explanation why to use this very specific and awkward to the fist glance position.
Thanks a lot, as usual.
You'r doing great job, Mr. Krueger.
I also immediately thought of Kung Fu stances and body mechanics of my youth!
Quite similar to Judo body mechanics. Maximum efficiency, minimum effort.
Wait till you dig into Historical European Martial Arts we have so much tradition and written textbooks as old as XIIITH century 😁
It leads so seamlessly in woodworking to "Wax on, wax off"
@@WolfKenneth oh, this is lost case, already have couple of manuals on a harddrive.
Thank you so much for being so insightful. Helps a lot for a newbie.
Thanks Rex! Great advice. I really appreciate your content.
Great Video! My first (and so far only) plane is one of those continental europe ones, with the elephant trunk foregrip. But instead of going with the german one for 130, i went for an eastern europe manufacture for 65 (exactly half!).
It's excellent. This plane, with the help of the first video you made about wooden planes, just slices through wood like it's butter. Hardwood, super soft construction lumber, it does it all cleanly.
I have a Stanley 4, a Record 5 1/2, a wooden scrub and a wooden long jointer (32") and I really enjoy the mix. Great content as always, Rex, you're the History Channel of woodworking
Good advice. I also don't much like the idea of the coffin planes but do really like the big wooden ones.
The Amish I with with all use power tools but asked me to come over and build them a simple countertop. I brought my plane with me along with chisel and handsaw. Was the first time they had seen those tools used.
The dad however had some old wood planes that his Amish grandfather used to use. One was as foreplane, the other was a router place for doing round overs.
Thinking of the history and the pieces those planes had touched really took me back. That foreplane though...WOW, that knife had seen more nails than most of the pole barns we build lol.
Rex thank you for the great video. Your effort to make using hand tools for wood working affordable makes it a possibility for so many more people.
My great-uncle was master carpenter foreman working in the coachbuilding workshop of the railway works before WW2, and I've got all his old tools - there are several wooden planes amongst his kit which I feel I'm going to have to dig out and investigate now...
Those planes may have even been made by your great uncle.
I'm start, your videos are amazing. I know yet how to use my planes buy on fleat market (In France, the cheapest way to find plane). Yesterday I find a toothed iron , so now, I kow now its use. I pratice building your lightweight workbench.
Great video. I love my wooden planes a lot. I will try the stance you showed. Thanks!
Hi Rex! Thanks for all your videos! I really appreciate your clarity when you explain things. Thanks for caring and enthusiasm!
Definitely going to make some of these, they are beautiful and no way could I afford metal ones. Thanks for the video, really useful information
Rex,
WOW, I hope this video helps new wood workers as it has me. I was side tracked by the transital wood planes that do work but are still lacking somthing. Yes you get the feed back when pushing the plane but still missing somthing, and dont drop it , dont ask. A wood plane is the way to go
I agree that the coffin smoothing planes are a little different to use over a Stanley #4. I solved that problem by simply using the same stance and arm technique that you show with the jack and jointer. It is a bit weird at first but it makes using a coffin plane much easier. My Stanley #4 & #5 hardly ever come out anymore other than to true up one of my 4 wooden planes. I also have a Sandusky #26 transitional which is equivalent to a Stanley #5. I restored that last year and it turned out to be a great addition.
I am lucky enough to have a ECE jointer plane about 30" long. Inherited from my father.
You just answered a lot of questions I had in my mind. I'm completely new on woodworking and you absolutely clear my mind on this topic. Love the presentation too, as a teacher I really admire people who communicate information so clearly.
over the last couple years i acquired a lot of wooden planes here in germany. mostly in the style of the ECE ones. i also got some new metal planes (because used metal planes are quite rare here) and i actually prefer the wooden ones. the iron adjustment is actually easier for me because i'm always having problems with backing out the iron with the metal planes. but i think this is mostly personal preference. thanks for the video rex.
Have you planed in some time to upgrade the tool wall behind you? Nothing really wrong with it i just remember that you was talking in the live stream to upgrade it.
I've changed my mind! I'm going to build a fairly traditional tool-chest instead. The build is tentatively planned for May.
@@RexKrueger I was HOPING that's the direction you would go. So looking forward to the tool chest build...the six board chest seemed like a natural lead-in.
Sensational video… a 12 on a 10 scale!!!
18:30 is probably the greates hand planing tip on the internet anywhere
Thank you so much to take time for these history lessons and usage tips for these kind of tools. You feel passionate and your enthusiasm is contagious.
I don’t miss any of your video.
Great job!
(From France)
That was a fantastic video, I've learned loads and been doing wood work for years. Unfortunately the only way to buy anything at the moment seems to be on line, but I have been lucky, I have some great vintage wooden planes in incredible condition, and over 100 years old purchased recently. Anyway you're a real talented presenter, U.K.
My first purchase was an ECE Jack plane. I bought it new in 1988 and use it daily.
Great video Rex thanks. So idea in the making of wooden plans.... For home made irons. Get some spring steal. A member of our church owns a hitch and wire company and the spring on trailers are perfect. I would image most of these type shops would give you a broken spring for free if not like 5 dollars. There would be enough steal in one to do a lot of irons.
If I may be so bold as to make a couple recommendations here...
1. The ECE planes are excellent. I struggle a bit with the smoother but it may be that I'm a lefty trying to use a right handed plane...left handed. Their moving fillester plane (different show) is phenomenal! I reach for that over my Stanley 78 every time. I also very much like their jointer plane which has a Stanley like tote on it. I know Rex mentioned that Amazon sells them but if you prefer to shop elsewhere, Highland Woodworking and Peck Tools sell them as well.
2. If you want a more traditional Anglo-American style plane new out of the box...search Crown Plane Company on Etsy. I purchased their jack plane not too long ago and it is a spectacular plane. A little more expensive than ECE and more than buying vintage but there was NO work to it. I literally tapped the iron in and made very nice shavings. Also if you're into this sort of thing he's an individual craftsman.
3. I received a Lee Valley plane adjusting hammer for Christmas that is excellent. Its brass on one side and wood on the other so you can use the brass to tap the iron in and the wood to tap the wedge. And the price is quite reasonable.
Thanks for the great content Rex! Much appreciated.
I'm not a big wooden plane user, but I've often wanted to learn more and to buy a few to use on upcoming projects. Thanks for sharing this info! Time to channel my inner Roy Underhill ;)
All the greatest furniture was created with Wooden planes when there was more emphasis on hand skills and creativity. And things were built to last.
Great job Rex!
Excellent video Rex! Good point about the timeline and Stanley style planes being kind of a "new" thing. My wooden planes came from auction sales by the pail or from the dump. Cannot get much cheaper.........
Thanks for the clear and enjoyable videos. Planes are really cool to use.
My bench slab will make a man out of me to get flat.
Informative and educational as always Rex. Thank you. Patreon well spent.
awesome video rex, now i am definetly keeping my eyes peeled for a good old fixerupper. keep em coming!
The grip and stance you started demonstrating at 18:45 might also work on a coffin plane and even a metal plane with the front knob (I think I try it on a board of European larch in the next days)
Great video Rex! If you want to keep the momentum going on the wooden planes how about a video on finding, restoring and using wooden plow planes and their cousins?
Most of those planes are gone. My goon woodworking pal found a Noris smoother in a bin somewhere. Talk about pearls to swine. But that was decades ago. There was a big period around 1980 when there were books on reconditioning tools. I have several of these. But it is a lot faster to make a plane than to recondition one. I think that part of the reason for reconditioning tools was that a lot of the guys who were into that did not have decent shops, often on purpose. I did seminars on plane making around 1980, and I came up with 45 minutes to make a plane if one had the blade, and 90 to make one with a blade made from a file. That does not include all the shaping, or the application of finish, but one can make a plane to do something, and get the first cut in 45 minutes.
All the above is why recently we saw all these great companies come out with new planes of the old type. They realized there just weren't enough antiques to supply the explosion in new woodworkers.
Now i got a used Stanley RB10 plane and i havent used it jet but i think i will enjoy it.
Thank you so much! You answered a question I had, which planes do I need? Thank you, this was so informative/helpful.
thank you Rex
Nice, this was one of your best videos. Thanks
Rex I really loved this video. I´ve became like a fan of the channel.
I have one of the longer wooden planes that inherited from my grandfather (who I couldn´t get to know). Those little tips you gave me will be used to disassemble and restore it.
I hope I could get it to its former glory.
Greetings from Argentina
How did the restoration go?
@@tikkitikkitembo148 it tourned out a nice jointer planer. Thank you for asking 😌
@@LeonardoArchi glad to hear that, always good to be preserving your family history like
This is excellent thanks, I’m going to try that stance next time.
Just bought my first wooden hand plane for $5 at a estate sale, far better than any plane I have in my collection
Thx for posting, a very hood overview and practise tips👌
Fantastic video Rex. Well presented. Love the new graphics.
I live in France, where my great granfather was a wheelwright. I inherited of his tools he used a century ago, and they are all "coffin shapped". :)
Love the wooden plane videos. Looking forward to seeing your take on making one of these. I have a bunch of old bi-metal plane irons I picked up cheap from a tool collector who lost the plane bodies to a flood. I'd donate an iron or two if you want for a build video.
beautiful episode
Very nice presentation. You have a gift Rex. Looking forward to more videos.
Great summary at the end.
Wonderful piece of education man! There were so many questions I had answered, thank you.