Coming from someone who owns a 6.0lt LS wagon, that's a family run around.. Bi-modal is a must.. I also have an OTR and custom tune.. I get better fuel economy over "Factory" and it has more power (I'd write the figures on here but someone who drives an Excel would tell me his mates LS made 300kw at the treads with just a tune and an Exhaust... And some other bloke would tell me I was full of shit....... I just don't need that sort of agro) It was a healthy power gain, no drone when closed and I get better fuel economy.
I had a series 2 ve ss and I spent about 4K on a vcm otr, 1/78 inch headers and a duel 3 inch xforce exhaust with their varex muffled and I got 280 wrk. Great all rounder with descent fuel economy in return. Hope this helps love the show.
good cheap upgrade is 340kw hsv headers, hsv mid section and s2 bimodals, there is a mob that do retrrofit module so you can run the s2 bimodals, tune and turn of the afm
@@michaeljeffery9898 yes sir agreed, 233/238° 14" camshaft can take you a long way, but I've heard the stock LS2 camshafts go good. I don't know I'll stick to my Barra 😁💪
@@arisl2370 when I got my bimodals for my s1 redline the valves were open, and the bimodal mufflers bolted onto the hsv system, as they had the same style clamp, ball type compared to flange on stock exhaust, also a mob (can’t remember name of company) do a retrofit wiring kit for bimodals into s1 where you can turn them on/off
Intake, zorst and a tune Broomy! Should give reasonable gains without spending shedloads. Also, everything between the holden badge on the bonnet, and the one on the tail gate, is a consumable item on these things lol!
Recently had the rad cap fail on my ve v8 wagon, wasnt sucking the hose in, it was bypassing and gurgling in the overflow, regardless not an expensive item. Be interested to see what you do with exhaust and intake as mine is still stock and im looking down the same route.
Ive changed the radiator cap once in 8 years, so don’t worry about recurring failures. Ive gone from catback/otr/tune to heads&cam to harrop 2300 and meth injection. Every step is rewarding but the best bang for buck was heads and cam (and valve gear upgrade). If you go for the catback, consider header choices because you’ll want that next. 1 7/8 into 2.5 inch catback on my Sportswagon is perfect, no drone & good performance - plenty of good choices out there. Bimodal is a bit of work. If you don’t cam it, just pick a good sports muffler and avoid the hassle of vacuum lines, rpm modules, vacuum solenoids. On the L77 with otr, 2.5 inch exhaust & 1 7/8 headers & Luis’ tuning at APS , was good for 260 rwkw. Heads and cam 316rwkw, harrop fdfi 2300 420 rwkw - power is a drug.
Hey @fullboost I highly reccomend a xforce varex system. Very good quality system with the two rear mufflers being electronically controlled. Similar to the series 2 Bi modal system. Just a lot better quality. I had it on my ssv.
Otr and a cat back exhaust plus a tune is all you need.. it’s a 270kw so you have around 220/230ish at treads now.. so should see 265/285rwkw from just that.. better fuel and get the auto tuned at same time for nice shifts.. or put a F6 motor in it and be done
Hi guys, could you follow up if a new radiator cap fixes your hose issue? I’m buying a ssv this Tuesday and it has this exact issue, my first thought is to replace the cap.
maaaaate, just chop da exhors and springs mate, pod filter mate, Chev badges and you wil todally like pick up at least 150 horsepowers and be hectic. If dat duzen worg, juz fit a barra.
Broomy hi mate, just get a decent exhaust, get it retuned and it will be sweet. I did this many years ago on my VX gen 3 and the result was a good daily driver that would run a flat 13s. Plenty of power when you need it. Keep up the good work. Matt
Oh also take a tester with you when you buy a new radiator cap the last time I replaced a cap the first 3 from a known manufacturer didn’t hold the required pressure straight of the display rack then another brand passed with the required pressure manufacturing parts is becoming alittle laxed on specs
I'd suggest a VCM OTR or similar OTR aswell if your going for a tune for the power they give you they really don't cost that much they sound awesome and make the engine bay look gorgeous
I know you’ve just put in a new air filter... but i’d 100% go an otr and 2.5” catback exhaust with a tune. Best bang for buck and an improvement in fuel economy
There's a guy on youtube who has a sedan, version ,but he did put the 340kw OE headers on it, lengthened the pipe between the cats and the exhaust pipe and put the HSV exhaust and made sure the rear mufflers were left open, that way you have at least the V8 sound and OTR and tune and got around 270 RWKW IMO that would be the cheapest way to go boys or yes plus the tune? All bolts up per factory and then you have just that little more power, maybe add a towing cam ,which does not effect the auto and that's it. :)
Gale Banks and Richard Holdener = Everything is better with boost. Harrop that thing, full exhaust from the exhaust ports out. Flex Fuel, throw a set of drag radials on it, rip a low 10 and enjoy it.
Hsv side mount cold air intake. Don't get a ram air unless you want crap getting past the filter and loss of low down torque. Exhaust get a club clubsport wagon system. I have a rapid exhaust axle back with no rear mufflers $500(includes helmhotz resonator tubes, gets rid of resonance. Leave Afm, if you turn it off you will wear out your lifters and cam. Like they do with manuals (afm is turned off)
I would recommend xforce 1in 7/8th headers and high flow cats. From cat back xforce 3 inch stainless steel. Check out the xforce website for options. for induction a xair otr and you can get it to here the induction noise on the series 2 it has the port for it.
No, if you want decent HP you’re going to need an OTR & duel high flow exhaust, 1 from each bank (x-force) showed excellent torque numbers on my LS dyno pulls & how bad do I want it back! Pacemaker headers showed good improvement with that system
when you mentioned the steering rack, its electric are you having problems with it? otherwise its expensive to change the electric steering rack. PS also the windscreen being a redline is very expensive around $1,200 to $ 1,400 hundred dollars + it has to go back to holden to align it, due to the HID set up which could cost more, unless its included in the price of thee glass by the windscreen place you use?
You cant retro fit the popping sounds from the series2 but the exhaust should. Imo the best sounding exhaust is a series2 SSV headers cats and centre hotdog delete on stock car back sounds good
Xforce Varex system is the way to go. Does what the factory Bi-Modal stuff does and more. Also looks great. For an intake just grab an OTR.. any one.. they're pretty much all identical.
Hi guys. I love my Holdens and I'm sick and tired of people saying just another holding you got a BMW should have got a Mercedes we'll f them to the moon. Because it's German and ID rather have Australian made good on you guys. Good on you guys for keeping the Australian made
Should hit up Manta exhausts, made in australia and quality, have it on my commodore and patrol 👌 do it right the first time, poor man pays twice. Post from a 15+year follower 😃
imo manta exhausts are THE best sounding exhausts without spending difillipo money. I have one on my Senator ans EVERYBODY says how much they love the sound of my car!
You should put a barra in it just to upset half the internet. But in all seriousness just put a exhaust on it so it sounds good and leave it be its already awesome.
Just personally, Id be arseholing those intake resonators and grinding all the ribbing out of the airbox. I'm a big fan of a loud intake and quiet exhaust, cause an intake only makes noise when you're on the loud pedal and well, it's sounds awesome, in my humble, worthless internet opinion! Maybe just remove one of the 80 mufflers....
@@brianrichards782 What motors have resonators on the throttle body side? All the motors I've dealt with all have alloy inlet manifold (so no resonators obviously). Curious that's all!
OTR, full exhaust, tune. EZ. *Diff gears, converter ;) Plenty of exhaust companies do the bi-modal retro fit. Could go the same route with a varex like on ol mates rexxy. Surely you'd have a contact you could hit up.. that would be willing to do a discount for some content/advertisement for there shop
Regarding the radiator cap, at least you don’t own a N54 powered BMW, where the turbos are considered consumables and should be changed every 100k or so... lol
Bite the bullet and put a decent high flow exhaust system, long tube 4 into 1 headers (my auto VF Series 2 runs a twin 3” system and 1 7/8 headers DiFillipo system in prep for a blower or if you are noise scared or a pussy drop down to 2 1/2” twin system and 1 3/4” headers, VCM OTR, tune and not only will it sound and go grouse, but the fuel economy on highway will vastly improve.
Fixed the brake issues by replacing the Brembo Hardware and replacing it with the decent Aussie made stuff LOL Of course there is nothing wrong with Brembo pads and rotors when the rotors wear out before the pads do. LOL Why didn't Luke pay for the brake upgrade? He reckons they are good. You want to hear the intake noise MMM tricky I know take off the turtle shell and let the intake do its thing. Cooler coils and if you take off the insulator even move noise. It is loaded with sound deadening, this will also let you hear those DOD lifters rattle away. 4:00 Broomy having another seizure??? *YOUR* diagnosis of the Radiator cap was the recovery system was sucking in air, mmm you blamed the LS. This is your words not mine...... If you don't believe me watch the video..Haven't changed the cap yet? Well no one sponsored the replacement of the cap? So I suppose ill let you off. Just go for long tubes and hi flow cats. Replace the bolts and use ARP ones for the extractors, they don't break and can be used more than once. Dont mess with any other never seize other than a nickel based one. It will tighten up and not come loose. It will drone on like you if you change the rear of the system, the bimodal system sounds just like a rear muffler delete when open. Always a laugh
Bi modal won’t work. But just get VF GTS centre section, the one with just the hotdogs and x pipe, and match it with a set of series 2 mufflers, as they have the same coupler as GTS centre section. Sounds really good and ZERO drone. Cost you about $300.
HAHAHHAHAHA Euro cars in Aus... OK, SHIT built to begin with (BMW AND Land Rover) ESPECIALLY Weak as piss! And I don’t mean horsepower. Unreliable Parts take forever Constantly going into limp dick mode Always something beeping at you Expensive to buy new, depreciation is unbelievable Once is out of the 3 year VERY limited warranty you can piss on them. (KIA offers 7 years BTW) The most technologically advanced cars in the world (or just fucken over complicated so you go back to the dealer and get bent over every 2 seconds) So yeah... I NEVER heard anyone say, geez my Toyota is an unreliable piece of shit hahahah.. Commodore? Falcon? Sure bits and pieces go (usually dumb shit like power window switch or heat selector or whatever) Otherwise good for 500000km I Had more falcons than i can count on 2 hands and NEVER did they leave me on the side of the road. Im wrong? Ok lets go across Australia, Intake a Falcon (any model) you take a 400k 7 series beema ! Catch is we get 2 liters of drinking water
Didn't initialize the radiator cap part no. with the ecu obviously 👍
I have a 2016 Chevy SS here in the US. Best car I've ever owned. Just added a VCM intake, Kooks headers, and a tune.
Coming from someone who owns a 6.0lt LS wagon, that's a family run around.. Bi-modal is a must..
I also have an OTR and custom tune.. I get better fuel economy over "Factory" and it has more power (I'd write the figures on here but someone who drives an Excel would tell me his mates LS made 300kw at the treads with just a tune and an Exhaust... And some other bloke would tell me I was full of shit....... I just don't need that sort of agro)
It was a healthy power gain, no drone when closed and I get better fuel economy.
Top man leave it with me haha churr keep it up fullboost you guys are the real og's of UA-cam car culture. Keep them videos coming
Mustn’t have ticked the CHEV badge option when ordering.
I had a series 2 ve ss and I spent about 4K on a vcm otr, 1/78 inch headers and a duel 3 inch xforce exhaust with their varex muffled and I got 280 wrk. Great all rounder with descent fuel economy in return. Hope this helps love the show.
good cheap upgrade is 340kw hsv headers, hsv mid section and s2 bimodals, there is a mob that do retrrofit module so you can run the s2 bimodals, tune and turn of the afm
Cheers thanks for the info.
@@fullboost could also look at a VCM intake as well as the above mods
@@michaeljeffery9898 yes sir agreed, 233/238° 14" camshaft can take you a long way, but I've heard the stock LS2 camshafts go good. I don't know I'll stick to my Barra 😁💪
Hi mate, can you tell me who mob does this retrofit bimodal on this car ?
@@arisl2370 when I got my bimodals for my s1 redline the valves were open, and the bimodal mufflers bolted onto the hsv system, as they had the same style clamp, ball type compared to flange on stock exhaust, also a mob (can’t remember name of company) do a retrofit wiring kit for bimodals into s1 where you can turn them on/off
Intake, zorst and a tune Broomy! Should give reasonable gains without spending shedloads. Also, everything between the holden badge on the bonnet, and the one on the tail gate, is a consumable item on these things lol!
Meatball Garage This is true. I still like it but haha
Recently had the rad cap fail on my ve v8 wagon, wasnt sucking the hose in, it was bypassing and gurgling in the overflow, regardless not an expensive item. Be interested to see what you do with exhaust and intake as mine is still stock and im looking down the same route.
Upgrade it to a friggin Barra and run 8's for a hundred bucks. :)
Lol watch out for those corners. Also the FG. interior is hot garbage
@@RED0N3 just like the injectors on 6.2 litre 👍
Love da cool sound of a lumpy V8 .. LS POWER 🦁
series 1 had vacuum operated BI modal, series 2 had electronic Bi modal. Xforce do a remote operated Bi MODAL. hope this helps.
Ive changed the radiator cap once in 8 years, so don’t worry about recurring failures. Ive gone from catback/otr/tune to heads&cam to harrop 2300 and meth injection. Every step is rewarding but the best bang for buck was heads and cam (and valve gear upgrade). If you go for the catback, consider header choices because you’ll want that next. 1 7/8 into 2.5 inch catback on my Sportswagon is perfect, no drone & good performance - plenty of good choices out there. Bimodal is a bit of work. If you don’t cam it, just pick a good sports muffler and avoid the hassle of vacuum lines, rpm modules, vacuum solenoids. On the L77 with otr, 2.5 inch exhaust & 1 7/8 headers & Luis’ tuning at APS , was good for 260 rwkw. Heads and cam 316rwkw, harrop fdfi 2300 420 rwkw - power is a drug.
Hey @fullboost I highly reccomend a xforce varex system. Very good quality system with the two rear mufflers being electronically controlled. Similar to the series 2 Bi modal system. Just a lot better quality. I had it on my ssv.
1:50 idk anything about it but i kinda like how it looks from the front
An exhaust and a remap for wonders for everyday driving and increase the response nicely
Otr and a cat back exhaust plus a tune is all you need.. it’s a 270kw so you have around 220/230ish at treads now.. so should see 265/285rwkw from just that.. better fuel and get the auto tuned at same time for nice shifts.. or put a F6 motor in it and be done
id suggest taking the 351c out of the ftruck and put in the wags
Logical Volcel that would be a first
Prices on VF Redlines have gone up a lot, glad I kept mine!
Hi guys, could you follow up if a new radiator cap fixes your hose issue? I’m buying a ssv this Tuesday and it has this exact issue, my first thought is to replace the cap.
Sam Erskine yes, filmed this a while ago and have replaced it and all good.
So what’s the answer to fixing the the sucked in hose, the misses VF dose also..
Digzy Doogan new radiator cap in most cases. Every auto parts joint will have them on the shelf. Was about $20 I think.
maaaaate, just chop da exhors and springs mate, pod filter mate, Chev badges and you wil todally like pick up at least 150 horsepowers and be hectic.
If dat duzen worg, juz fit a barra.
Tru trac diff as well mabye ??
Broomy hi mate, just get a decent exhaust, get it retuned and it will be sweet. I did this many years ago on my VX gen 3 and the result was a good daily driver that would run a flat 13s. Plenty of power when you need it. Keep up the good work. Matt
Oh also take a tester with you when you buy a new radiator cap the last time I replaced a cap the first 3 from a known manufacturer didn’t hold the required pressure straight of the display rack then another brand passed with the required pressure manufacturing parts is becoming alittle laxed on specs
You guys are crazy playing with that LS junk. My mate Gazza could drop a $1000 Barra in that and be running 8’s all day long!
poor man’s power
I'd suggest a VCM OTR or similar OTR aswell if your going for a tune for the power they give you they really don't cost that much they sound awesome and make the engine bay look gorgeous
I do about 1-2 rack rebuilds a day. The worst are lsa + mods or just stock you have to drop the K frame a touch.
That little induction mod paired with some fresh bowser fuel you should see 450kw at the wheels
I know you’ve just put in a new air filter... but i’d 100% go an otr and 2.5” catback exhaust with a tune.
Best bang for buck and an improvement in fuel economy
If it's going to be towing what about diff upgrade and trans coolers
Ben crimmins our F350 project truck #townado should take care of most the towing duties :)
There's a guy on youtube who has a sedan, version ,but he did put the 340kw OE headers on it, lengthened the pipe between the cats and the exhaust pipe and put the HSV exhaust and made sure the rear mufflers were left open, that way you have at least the V8 sound and OTR and tune and got around 270 RWKW IMO that would be the cheapest way to go boys or yes plus the tune? All bolts up per factory and then you have just that little more power, maybe add a towing cam ,which does not effect the auto and that's it. :)
Some Whiteline swaybars, I cant think of a negative from doing the upgrade.
Gale Banks and Richard Holdener = Everything is better with boost. Harrop that thing, full exhaust from the exhaust ports out. Flex Fuel, throw a set of drag radials on it, rip a low 10 and enjoy it.
I would recommend doing something with the cooling next such as a upgraded radiator or just better coolant.
Stock Radiator is fine, but trans cooler is a must. Those 6l80e boxes run hot when working hard
Hsv side mount cold air intake. Don't get a ram air unless you want crap getting past the filter and loss of low down torque. Exhaust get a club clubsport wagon system. I have a rapid exhaust axle back with no rear mufflers $500(includes helmhotz resonator tubes, gets rid of resonance. Leave Afm, if you turn it off you will wear out your lifters and cam. Like they do with manuals (afm is turned off)
I would recommend xforce 1in 7/8th headers and high flow cats. From cat back xforce 3 inch stainless steel. Check out the xforce website for options. for induction a xair otr and you can get it to here the induction noise on the series 2 it has the port for it.
No, if you want decent HP you’re going to need an OTR & duel high flow exhaust, 1 from each bank (x-force) showed excellent torque numbers on my LS dyno pulls & how bad do I want it back! Pacemaker headers showed good improvement with that system
when you mentioned the steering rack, its electric are you having problems with it? otherwise its expensive to change the electric steering rack. PS also the windscreen being a redline is very expensive around $1,200 to $ 1,400 hundred dollars + it has to go back to holden to align it, due to the HID set up which could cost more, unless its included in the price of thee glass by the windscreen place you use?
7071t6 yes I made sure I ticked the windscreen replacement box on my insurance for this reason
Yep been there before $1,200 i paid 3 years ago had a pot plant thrown at it from the second storey balcony by a very angry ex
Another barra swap series coming up??
You cant retro fit the popping sounds from the series2 but the exhaust should.
Imo the best sounding exhaust is a series2 SSV headers cats and centre hotdog delete on stock car back sounds good
Xforce Varex system is the way to go. Does what the factory Bi-Modal stuff does and more. Also looks great. For an intake just grab an OTR.. any one.. they're pretty much all identical.
Hi guys. I love my Holdens and I'm sick and tired of people saying just another holding you got a BMW should have got a Mercedes we'll f them to the moon. Because it's German and ID rather have Australian made good on you guys. Good on you guys for keeping the Australian made
tim Martin l agree and next time someone tells you to get a bmw or Mercedes tell them you do t want an international taxi from England
Should hit up Manta exhausts, made in australia and quality, have it on my commodore and patrol 👌 do it right the first time, poor man pays twice. Post from a 15+year follower 😃
imo manta exhausts are THE best sounding exhausts without spending difillipo money. I have one on my Senator ans EVERYBODY says how much they love the sound of my car!
@@clubsportr82001 same with mine. Manta now have the jigs for diffilpo now also business merge of something not sure.
I've got a full turbo back manta twin system on my xr6t and it sounds mint 👌 They are a great product for many models.
Moses go and part some fukin waters will ya..
@@ufowraith i dont part water, i part womens legs.
If you are after more power just add a set of P. Plates
Leave it and get back to work on the ramp truck👌
shaun gannon few episodes ready to come on that :)
radiator cap needs a reset,lol,nah the atmospheric valve is stuck shut.
You can’t replace it I just tried myself , looked at all the tradie utes....crap the lot of them, needless to say I have kept my ls v8 Holden ute.
Can easily fit a HSV exhaust from the VF. add some aftermarket headers and OTR. Don’t do a cat back
xforce do a dual 2.25" varex cat back exhaust. that will give you bimodal without having to rely on/work out any OEM integration.
Full system and dyno tune should be good! Run it against the wrx at the strip for a bit of fun perhaps?
Tbone Malone wrx won’t make it 1320 ft without blowing a head gasket
Tune and remove the MAF and like old mate said below with the hsv exhaust
Do an engine swap with a naturally aspirated FA20 on E85. You'll have to upgrade the drivetrain obviously.
You should put a barra in it just to upset half the internet. But in all seriousness just put a exhaust on it so it sounds good and leave it be its already awesome.
Just personally, Id be arseholing those intake resonators and grinding all the ribbing out of the airbox.
I'm a big fan of a loud intake and quiet exhaust, cause an intake only makes noise when you're on the loud pedal and well, it's sounds awesome, in my humble, worthless internet opinion!
Maybe just remove one of the 80 mufflers....
Only remove resonator on intake if it's at the air intake side, if it's at the throttle body side it's often to improve scavenging
@@brianrichards782 What motors have resonators on the throttle body side?
All the motors I've dealt with all have alloy inlet manifold (so no resonators obviously).
Curious that's all!
OTR, full exhaust, tune. EZ.
*Diff gears, converter ;)
Plenty of exhaust companies do the bi-modal retro fit. Could go the same route with a varex like on ol mates rexxy.
Surely you'd have a contact you could hit up.. that would be willing to do a discount for some content/advertisement for there shop
Just hop it up. Boost it with a nice Harrop blower. Some nice wheels and exhaust. Alu radiator
OTR, Exhaust, Cam and a tune should get it going good.
M.I.G locker and a Makita lowering kit should at least make the to do list... C'mon it's a V8 wagon hahahaha
Nothing in the same price range that matches the VF wagon sadly, such a shame it was the last ever Commodore!
Regarding the radiator cap, at least you don’t own a N54 powered BMW, where the turbos are considered consumables and should be changed every 100k or so... lol
if you play it 1.5x speed it sounds normal
1.25 is better tbh
Twin turbo charged stroker 🙏 you won't regret it.
Best drone delete I did to my wagon was put an 88mm turbo on it..... No drone.
VPR at telarah for tune 100%
I quite like the wagon shape over the sedan...They may as well have deleted the interior mirror the view is so bad.
Killaboost manifolds basic turbo kit. For a long term goal
somebody's been watching Nick's Garage... ;)
tocsa120ls no disrespect to whoever that is, but I’ve never heard of Nicks Garage.
Sass automotives is great at getting power out of LS with just a few mods 👍
Keep an eye on the DuD lifters mate, bloody terrible things.
Go see C & A autofashion and get their OTR/manta full sysytem/tune! Best bang for your buck around!!!
If i give you the keys to my car can you get the engine oil pressure problem sorted for us?? ;) :)
Why not try a Goat performance low mount twin turbo kit, on low boost you will be loving life 👌
3 Rotor swap...and new radiator cap done **insert sarcastic tone**
Bite the bullet and put a decent high flow exhaust system, long tube 4 into 1 headers (my auto VF Series 2 runs a twin 3” system and 1 7/8 headers DiFillipo system in prep for a blower or if you are noise scared or a pussy drop down to 2 1/2” twin system and 1 3/4” headers, VCM OTR, tune and not only will it sound and go grouse, but the fuel economy on highway will vastly improve.
BIGG CAMM STALLY YEAAAHAA
get empire performance exhaust really good and cheap
They rb exhaust sounds terrible everything else not bad
Mad
headers fry everything with heat so get some heat shields.
JyveKilla DCI Performance got it covered there.
Fixed the brake issues by replacing the Brembo Hardware and replacing it with the decent Aussie made stuff LOL Of course there is nothing wrong with Brembo pads and rotors when the rotors wear out before the pads do. LOL Why didn't Luke pay for the brake upgrade? He reckons they are good.
You want to hear the intake noise MMM tricky I know take off the turtle shell and let the intake do its thing. Cooler coils and if you take off the insulator even move noise. It is loaded with sound deadening, this will also let you hear those DOD lifters rattle away.
4:00 Broomy having another seizure??? *YOUR* diagnosis of the Radiator cap was the recovery system was sucking in air, mmm you blamed the LS. This is your words not mine...... If you don't believe me watch the video..Haven't changed the cap yet? Well no one sponsored the replacement of the cap? So I suppose ill let you off.
Just go for long tubes and hi flow cats. Replace the bolts and use ARP ones for the extractors, they don't break and can be used more than once. Dont mess with any other never seize other than a nickel based one. It will tighten up and not come loose. It will drone on like you if you change the rear of the system, the bimodal system sounds just like a rear muffler delete when open.
Always a laugh
Luke whats to put a screemer on the LS hahahahah
Supercharger and Exhaust will only cost $2k. Why not?
Bi modal won’t work. But just get VF GTS centre section, the one with just the hotdogs and x pipe, and match it with a set of series 2 mufflers, as they have the same coupler as GTS centre section. Sounds really good and ZERO drone. Cost you about $300.
I've been wanting one of those cars but every time I see your videos I get turned off more and more. They really have a lot of issues 😁
We can help, message sent on FB Luke 👍
Did we just get trolled into watching an air filter get changed? 8 mins to check the dip stick on the next one lads? @Thecommentssection.
Open headers m8 don’t be scared.
Needs some hectic subs in the back, everyone needs some doof doof in their life. Helps drown out all the Barra comments from falcon owners too 👌🏻
Put a big block hemi in it 😁
OIL CATCH CAN Elite Engineering
Can't you two just talk about the car and not the fucking comments.
HAHAHHAHAHA Euro cars in Aus...
OK,
SHIT built to begin with (BMW AND Land Rover) ESPECIALLY
Weak as piss! And I don’t mean horsepower.
Unreliable
Parts take forever
Constantly going into limp dick mode
Always something beeping at you
Expensive to buy new, depreciation is unbelievable
Once is out of the 3 year VERY limited warranty you can piss on them.
(KIA offers 7 years BTW)
The most technologically advanced cars in the world (or just fucken over complicated so you go back to the dealer and get bent over every 2 seconds)
So yeah...
I NEVER heard anyone say, geez my Toyota is an unreliable piece of shit hahahah..
Commodore? Falcon?
Sure bits and pieces go (usually dumb shit like power window switch or heat selector or whatever)
Otherwise good for 500000km
I Had more falcons than i can count on 2 hands and NEVER did they leave me on the side of the road.
Im wrong?
Ok lets go across Australia, Intake a Falcon (any model) you take a 400k 7 series beema !
Catch is we get 2 liters of drinking water
Don't muck around , just Barra swap it.🤣
Replace it with a barra, you'll get reliability and lazy power with a turbo
Please don’t put ugly ass Simmons on this thing. Or Vertini Dynasties
We wont be changing the wheels 👍
Awesome. The Brembos behind the standard wheels are nice
Barra swap it
id love to see a merc v8 in a zb commy tho