I have several young trees I started from cuttings I got last December from Ross the Fig Boss and they are so healthy! The biggest is 4 feet tall and a bush only 6 months later.
In Arizona, planting the trees a little closer together helps get the fig fruit a little more shade so they don't dry out, when we get 110°F plus temperatures.
Thank you for this update. I have limited space and have been very interested in high density planting but also interested in maximizing productivity. This is helpful.
I have a very limited space that gets full sun. Most of my yard is shade. I felt like I was running out of room until I saw this video. I went out and measured, and my trees are 12’ apart. Looks like I have room to plant some between them and still have them 6’ apart.
Ross I have bought Smith cuttings on two separate occasions and have been unsuccessful both times and getting them to root. It’s not my method as I have rooted hundreds of other cuttings. I think it’s the quality of cuttings that I’m getting. Where can I buy one of your Smith cuttings?
Question for you.... I have recently received 3 ROOTED fig cuttings from Turkey. With shipping they were $101. They have been potted up for about 5 days. I noticed 1 of them has what looks like frass coming out of one of them and the bark has what looks like a water stain on the bark below the frass. Do fig trees get a borer? If so I probably should cut my loses and throw it out as well as watch the others. You have a great chanel thanks!!!
There are multiple species of beetle that are fig borers. This is definitely something you need to act on. Since it sounds like the trees were imported, depending on where you live you may also need to contact your country's version of the Department of Agriculture to report the pest, as this scenario is one way that invasive species get a foothold.
Do you cover or protect all those trees over the winter? Or since they're several years old are they winter hardy enough? I live outside Pittsburgh and trying to figure things out for my winter protection. Thanks for your videos by the way!
Hey Ross - a little off topic but the number of fig trees that you have made me wonder how you protect ripening figs from birds and squirrels. Do you net the groups of trees or use organza bags or? Seems that the number of figs will be in the hundreds so individual organza bags might be too much to deal with.....just a thought - mostly a question :) \
The way you have them planted, how do you distinguish which tree it is? If you are selling cuttings, it’s a good chance that you will harvest them not knowing what variety you are cutting them 😮
When you were cutting the plants back super hard could they have just needed way more nutrients to fruit more at high density? It is asking a lot of the plants to grow a whole new tree and fruit the same year.
Yeah, but in your temps, the cold will kill them back to the ground anyway. I've heard that over over and over for zone 7 and lower. You might as well plant densely and prune to the ground unless you go crazy with ground cover, and even then, closer to the ground is easiest. What am I missing bud?
It's easy in zone 7 fig trees to survive. I think they can go lower when unprotected and lignified properly. In zone 5&6 you can get more creative: www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-hardy - I'm not sure what you're missing.
I think the concept of “competing for nutrients” is nonsense. There is so much soil in between roots and it’s only the soil they are in direct contact with that nutrients would be extracted from. Like you said if anything they compete for sun.
Yes is something I question, though water absorption doubles with double the plants and that roots wanting space to stretch and do their thing God put them to do is limited when they clash with others and instead of smoothly finding their way they put more effort into finding alternate ways to grow like when clashing into a wall underground so being cramped is like some of us traveling to crowded and not being able to develop ourselves into comfortable space. How do you date things ages btw? (Saw genetics 🧬 in your chanelname)
@@xaviercruz4763 yes but much of the water passes by the roots and travels deep into earth. I think sun is the main aspect they compete for. Sorry I don’t understand the “how do I date things” question.
I have several young trees I started from cuttings I got last December from Ross the Fig Boss and they are so healthy! The biggest is 4 feet tall and a bush only 6 months later.
In Arizona, planting the trees a little closer together helps get the fig fruit a little more shade so they don't dry out, when we get 110°F plus temperatures.
Good tip.
Thank you for this update. I have limited space and have been very interested in high density planting but also interested in maximizing productivity. This is helpful.
“Im not complaining at all I did this to myself” 😂 good video fig boss.
I've have alot of my tree's like this I have the clay soil too but I also keep add woodchips and compost
I have a very limited space that gets full sun. Most of my yard is shade. I felt like I was running out of room until I saw this video. I went out and measured, and my trees are 12’ apart. Looks like I have room to plant some between them and still have them 6’ apart.
Ross I have bought Smith cuttings on two separate occasions and have been unsuccessful both times and getting them to root. It’s not my method as I have rooted hundreds of other cuttings. I think it’s the quality of cuttings that I’m getting. Where can I buy one of your Smith cuttings?
Question: I have seen conflicting information, will the Chicago hardy fig grow fruit on the old growth or only on new growth?
Question for you.... I have recently received 3 ROOTED fig cuttings from Turkey. With shipping they were $101. They have been potted up for about 5 days. I noticed 1 of them has what looks like frass coming out of one of them and the bark has what looks like a water stain on the bark below the frass. Do fig trees get a borer? If so I probably should cut my loses and throw it out as well as watch the others. You have a great chanel thanks!!!
There are multiple species of beetle that are fig borers. This is definitely something you need to act on. Since it sounds like the trees were imported, depending on where you live you may also need to contact your country's version of the Department of Agriculture to report the pest, as this scenario is one way that invasive species get a foothold.
Brisbane don’t get rid of them just yet even if they look not well or dead and wait
If anything compost extract on the leaves and stems and roots until you find out what is it
Do you cover or protect all those trees over the winter? Or since they're several years old are they winter hardy enough? I live outside Pittsburgh and trying to figure things out for my winter protection. Thanks for your videos by the way!
I would highly recommend reading this:
www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-hardy
Hey Ross - a little off topic but the number of fig trees that you have made me wonder how you protect ripening figs from birds and squirrels. Do you net the groups of trees or use organza bags or? Seems that the number of figs will be in the hundreds so individual organza bags might be too much to deal with.....just a thought - mostly a question :) \
The way you have them planted, how do you distinguish which tree it is? If you are selling cuttings, it’s a good chance that you will harvest them not knowing what variety you are cutting them 😮
Are the "scaffolding" the lateral growth?
Main trunk > scaffolds > laterals.
I’ve got some about 3 f to apart. I will need to clear more sun for them thought.
What do you remommend between rows
Lmao.
When you were cutting the plants back super hard could they have just needed way more nutrients to fruit more at high density? It is asking a lot of the plants to grow a whole new tree and fruit the same year.
I’m planting in ground not going to trim for cutting’s. Full grown trees 20’ apart in sandy FL. soil
Can I plant in an area that has virtually all shade? Weather is low humidity and average high 93F June-September
No. I would plant in at least 3-4 hours of direct sunlight.
Yeah, but in your temps, the cold will kill them back to the ground anyway. I've heard that over over and over for zone 7 and lower. You might as well plant densely and prune to the ground unless you go crazy with ground cover, and even then, closer to the ground is easiest. What am I missing bud?
It's easy in zone 7 fig trees to survive. I think they can go lower when unprotected and lignified properly. In zone 5&6 you can get more creative: www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-hardy - I'm not sure what you're missing.
Interesting 😊
My 200 fig trees are 15 ft. apart, and after only 2 years, I wish they were farther apart.
I live in TN and my figs have died back to the ground in the past 2 winters and have gotten zero fruit so far. I'm about to give up on this.
I think the concept of “competing for nutrients” is nonsense. There is so much soil in between roots and it’s only the soil they are in direct contact with that nutrients would be extracted from. Like you said if anything they compete for sun.
Yes is something I question, though water absorption doubles with double the plants and that roots wanting space to stretch and do their thing God put them to do is limited when they clash with others and instead of smoothly finding their way they put more effort into finding alternate ways to grow like when clashing into a wall underground so being cramped is like some of us traveling to crowded and not being able to develop ourselves into comfortable space. How do you date things ages btw? (Saw genetics 🧬 in your chanelname)
@@xaviercruz4763 yes but much of the water passes by the roots and travels deep into earth. I think sun is the main aspect they compete for. Sorry I don’t understand the “how do I date things” question.
Paid the cost to be the boss
Hahah - get rid of the grass!!