High Density Fig Trees: The Pros and Cons of Planting Fig Trees 2 ft on Center
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- The video provides an update on a high-density fig tree planting experiment in Philadelphia, detailing the challenges and techniques involved in managing fig trees planted 2 feet apart. The speaker explains the drawbacks of heavy pruning and emphasizes the importance of maintaining hormonal balance for optimal fruit production. Despite the difficulties, such as competition for sunlight and harvesting issues, the speaker finds this method feasible with proper expertise and tree management.
To read more about planting fig trees, check out my detailed guide on the Fig Boss blog: www.figboss.co...
Experiment Background (0:01):
120 fig trees planted 2 feet apart, started seven years ago.
Five Plots (0:39):
Description of the five plots on different sides of the property.
Most Advanced Plot (0:47):
Features of the most advanced plot with 35-40 fig trees.
Initial Pruning Strategy (1:11):
Original plan to cut trees back heavily every season.
Change in Pruning Strategy (1:45):
Heavy pruning reduced productivity; trees now pruned less.
Hormonal Balance (2:17):
Importance of maintaining tree hormones for fruit set.
Tree Maturity (3:22):
Trees now entering third to fifth growing seasons with minimal winter damage.
Plot Configuration (3:53):
Trees planted 2 feet apart in five rows.
Management Challenges (4:37):
Difficulty managing and harvesting in high-density planting.
Recommended Spacing (5:10):
Suggested spacing of 4-6 feet between trees.
Pruning Knowledge (5:46):
Importance of understanding pruning and tree training techniques.
Unified Plot Concept (6:23):
Viewing the dense planting as a single organism for easier management.
Height Management (6:55):
Need for future heavy-duty pruning to control tree height.
Tree vs. Bush Form (7:30):
Preference for bush form in colder climates for easier propagation.
Dual Purpose Plot (8:07):
Plot provides both fruit harvest and cuttings for sale.
Nutrient Competition Myth (8:48):
No significant nutrient competition; focus on sunlight.
Soil and Mulch (10:00):
Benefits of mulch for soil improvement and nutrient addition.
Harvesting Difficulty (10:35):
Challenges in reaching fruits as trees grow taller.
Ladder Requirement (11:15):
Potential need for a ladder to harvest from taller trees.
Thinning Cuts (11:58):
Thinning cuts and height reduction to manage tree growth.
Pros and Cons Summary (12:29):
High-density planting feasible with expertise and limited space
Check out the very informative Fig Boss website & blog: www.figboss.com/
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Zone 7A - Greater Philadelphia
“Im not complaining at all I did this to myself” 😂 good video fig boss.
In Arizona, planting the trees a little closer together helps get the fig fruit a little more shade so they don't dry out, when we get 110°F plus temperatures.
Good tip.
I've have alot of my tree's like this I have the clay soil too but I also keep add woodchips and compost
I have several young trees I started from cuttings I got last December from Ross the Fig Boss and they are so healthy! The biggest is 4 feet tall and a bush only 6 months later.
The way you have them planted, how do you distinguish which tree it is? If you are selling cuttings, it’s a good chance that you will harvest them not knowing what variety you are cutting them 😮
I have a very limited space that gets full sun. Most of my yard is shade. I felt like I was running out of room until I saw this video. I went out and measured, and my trees are 12’ apart. Looks like I have room to plant some between them and still have them 6’ apart.
I’m planting in ground not going to trim for cutting’s. Full grown trees 20’ apart in sandy FL. soil
Interesting 😊
I’ve got some about 3 f to apart. I will need to clear more sun for them thought.
Question: I have seen conflicting information, will the Chicago hardy fig grow fruit on the old growth or only on new growth?
My 200 fig trees are 15 ft. apart, and after only 2 years, I wish they were farther apart.
Ross I have bought Smith cuttings on two separate occasions and have been unsuccessful both times and getting them to root. It’s not my method as I have rooted hundreds of other cuttings. I think it’s the quality of cuttings that I’m getting. Where can I buy one of your Smith cuttings?
Do you cover or protect all those trees over the winter? Or since they're several years old are they winter hardy enough? I live outside Pittsburgh and trying to figure things out for my winter protection. Thanks for your videos by the way!
I would highly recommend reading this:
www.figboss.com/post/fig-tree-hardy
Question for you.... I have recently received 3 ROOTED fig cuttings from Turkey. With shipping they were $101. They have been potted up for about 5 days. I noticed 1 of them has what looks like frass coming out of one of them and the bark has what looks like a water stain on the bark below the frass. Do fig trees get a borer? If so I probably should cut my loses and throw it out as well as watch the others. You have a great chanel thanks!!!
There are multiple species of beetle that are fig borers. This is definitely something you need to act on. Since it sounds like the trees were imported, depending on where you live you may also need to contact your country's version of the Department of Agriculture to report the pest, as this scenario is one way that invasive species get a foothold.
Brisbane don’t get rid of them just yet even if they look not well or dead and wait
If anything compost extract on the leaves and stems and roots until you find out what is it
I live in TN and my figs have died back to the ground in the past 2 winters and have gotten zero fruit so far. I'm about to give up on this.
Are the "scaffolding" the lateral growth?
Main trunk > scaffolds > laterals.
When you were cutting the plants back super hard could they have just needed way more nutrients to fruit more at high density? It is asking a lot of the plants to grow a whole new tree and fruit the same year.
Hey Ross - a little off topic but the number of fig trees that you have made me wonder how you protect ripening figs from birds and squirrels. Do you net the groups of trees or use organza bags or? Seems that the number of figs will be in the hundreds so individual organza bags might be too much to deal with.....just a thought - mostly a question :) \
Can I plant in an area that has virtually all shade? Weather is low humidity and average high 93F June-September
No. I would plant in at least 3-4 hours of direct sunlight.
Paid the cost to be the boss
I think the concept of “competing for nutrients” is nonsense. There is so much soil in between roots and it’s only the soil they are in direct contact with that nutrients would be extracted from. Like you said if anything they compete for sun.
Yes is something I question, though water absorption doubles with double the plants and that roots wanting space to stretch and do their thing God put them to do is limited when they clash with others and instead of smoothly finding their way they put more effort into finding alternate ways to grow like when clashing into a wall underground so being cramped is like some of us traveling to crowded and not being able to develop ourselves into comfortable space. How do you date things ages btw? (Saw genetics 🧬 in your chanelname)
@@xaviercruz4763 yes but much of the water passes by the roots and travels deep into earth. I think sun is the main aspect they compete for. Sorry I don’t understand the “how do I date things” question.
Hahah - get rid of the grass!!
Thank you for this update. I have limited space and have been very interested in high density planting but also interested in maximizing productivity. This is helpful.