200+ later my experience with planting figs in zone 8a-ish (very dry, relatively long season April - November) The best time to plant them is after your last frost in spring (in my case around the middle of March). Preferably still no leaves on them (if you keep them in a warm place then move them somewhere colder if they are about to get leaves). Don't plant last year's cuttings. The best result is 2 years plants in a big pot. Figs are like pigs they love a lot of everything - a lot of heat, sun, water and.... liquid fertilizers. It's recommend to remove the fruits when they are in the pots and 1s year when they are planted.
I’ve planted four this month. All in different locations around the house. They’re all doing very well. My potting mix wasn’t draining well and I needed to do something to ensure the trees survive. Putting them in the ground seemed like a no-brainer.
I plant them all year round in 8a but in the summer you really have to take care just like you said. Impossible for me in the summer to over water but after up potting I leave them under my big pecan tree for a couple days and give them fertilizer to help out.
Ross, wow! You are publishing some awesome information! Thanks so much! Do you think a fertilizer with a different NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) ratio should be used when you are trying to get the green leafy growth put on and not so much the fruit? I ask because this has worked wonders on my new citrus trees in zone 9B. The leaves on my baby citrus trees were turning yellow and dropping to the ground. I had no idea what was wrong with my citrus, but I new they were sick. Then I stumbled upon the answer by accident when researching something else... It turns out that when citrus trees are young, they cannot absorb iron and zinc when there is a high ratio of phosphorus in the fertilizer. In fact, a high ratio of phosphorus can almost completely hinder absorption of iron and zinc. For the first 3-5 years, it is beneficial to feed citrus a fertilizer with an NPK of 15-5-10. When I looked up a fertilizer with this NPK value it was for grass! However, I purchased this fertiliser anyway. To my amazement... all my citrus trees that became ill, started to put on a lot of leafy green growth after I performed two steps: 1) I treated them with two applications of Liquinox (Chelated Iron and Zinc), and 2) feed them the grass fertilizer with the 15-5-10 NPK. I think you hit the nail on the head when you said that if the figs have a lot of fruit-they won't put on new leaves. Several of my little fig trees have fruit, but hardly any new growth. I am going to experiment and give my figs the grass fertilizer (15-5-10) to boost green leafy growth and slow down/stop fruit production (phosphorus is for flowers and fruit production) at least for this summer. I this this will will dramatically boost growth.
The ideal ratio for most plants is roughly 20-10-20. Maybe it differs slightly, but you're right, phosphorus is not needed in high quantities like other nutrients.
For a low cordon? Not exactly. This video shows it: ua-cam.com/video/fZeT69vtZx8/v-deo.htmlsi=0br1lgmmk9i1YKQ6 Use 11 or 14 gauge wire with eye hooks. All found at a hardware store. Actually, check my Amazon storefront in the description of any video for a link to the wire.
thanks for your videos. you are really the fig boss. question: what is the nature of the fig roots? is there any problem in planting fig so close to house? will they damage foundation, or start suckering in basement/crawl space?
I have a question for the fig enthusiasts in the community.I've recently moved to Long Island, which is in zone 7b, and I'm planning to plant 3 or 4 fig trees in the ground. Could you recommend which of the following varieties would be best for this area? VDB Ronde De Bordeaux Green Greek Olympian Adreano Italian-258 Smith White Madeira #1 I also have Celeste, Hardy Chicago, Marseilles Black SV, and some other cold-hardy varieties that thrive in my previous location in Whitestone (zip code 11356, zone 6b). While these trees have produced a lot of figs, they haven't been as flavorful as I’d hoped.I'm curious if anyone living in Long Island has experience with these varieties and can provide advice on which ones might be the most delicious and well-suited for this area.
I've got 2 bushes that came back from severe vole/rabbit? I thought they were dead. I was thinking of digging them up and just keeping in pots but if I can keep them in the ground, great. How do I keep them from future pest damage? Do the plastic wraps really work?
Don't dig em up. There's a few things you can do, Joy: 1. Don't cover them too soon this fall. Wait until the low is forecasted below 15F. 2. These pellets you can sprinkle around the tree to control them: amzn.to/4df2NhO 3. Get a cat, hehe.
I'm looking to plant fig trees in the ground in Merrick, Long Island (ZIP code 11566). However, my property is at a low elevation near a lake, and the soil tends to be damp at night. What can I do to ensure the successful growth of my fig trees?
Is there a certain age we should wait until? It seems like every time I plant one it dies to the ground which is unusual for southern NC. Then after that they grow strongly but still dies to the ground, this has happened with smith and WM#1. Our lowest temperatures are normally around 18-23 degrees.
Yeah. It dies because the new growth didn't lignify properly. Protect it the first year after planting by bending the shoots to the ground and covering them. Next year it'll fruit, grow slowly, and lignify properly. Exactly what you want.
The best shovel on the market for any planting job: amzn.to/4c1LGPs
200+ later my experience with planting figs in zone 8a-ish (very dry, relatively long season April - November) The best time to plant them is after your last frost in spring (in my case around the middle of March). Preferably still no leaves on them (if you keep them in a warm place then move them somewhere colder if they are about to get leaves). Don't plant last year's cuttings. The best result is 2 years plants in a big pot. Figs are like pigs they love a lot of everything - a lot of heat, sun, water and.... liquid fertilizers. It's recommend to remove the fruits when they are in the pots and 1s year when they are planted.
I’ve planted four this month. All in different locations around the house. They’re all doing very well. My potting mix wasn’t draining well and I needed to do something to ensure the trees survive. Putting them in the ground seemed like a no-brainer.
Awesome video. Cool, calm, collected and very articulate while getting eaten by mosquitoes.
I plant them all year round in 8a but in the summer you really have to take care just like you said. Impossible for me in the summer to over water but after up potting I leave them under my big pecan tree for a couple days and give them fertilizer to help out.
Ross, wow! You are publishing some awesome information! Thanks so much! Do you think a fertilizer with a different NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) ratio should be used when you are trying to get the green leafy growth put on and not so much the fruit? I ask because this has worked wonders on my new citrus trees in zone 9B.
The leaves on my baby citrus trees were turning yellow and dropping to the ground. I had no idea what was wrong with my citrus, but I new they were sick. Then I stumbled upon the answer by accident when researching something else... It turns out that when citrus trees are young, they cannot absorb iron and zinc when there is a high ratio of phosphorus in the fertilizer. In fact, a high ratio of phosphorus can almost completely hinder absorption of iron and zinc.
For the first 3-5 years, it is beneficial to feed citrus a fertilizer with an NPK of 15-5-10. When I looked up a fertilizer with this NPK value it was for grass! However, I purchased this fertiliser anyway. To my amazement... all my citrus trees that became ill, started to put on a lot of leafy green growth after I performed two steps: 1) I treated them with two applications of Liquinox (Chelated Iron and Zinc), and 2) feed them the grass fertilizer with the 15-5-10 NPK.
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said that if the figs have a lot of fruit-they won't put on new leaves. Several of my little fig trees have fruit, but hardly any new growth. I am going to experiment and give my figs the grass fertilizer (15-5-10) to boost green leafy growth and slow down/stop fruit production (phosphorus is for flowers and fruit production) at least for this summer. I this this will will dramatically boost growth.
The ideal ratio for most plants is roughly 20-10-20. Maybe it differs slightly, but you're right, phosphorus is not needed in high quantities like other nutrients.
Do you have a video or at your blog post with a more in depth "Wire -System" ? thanks
For a low cordon? Not exactly. This video shows it: ua-cam.com/video/fZeT69vtZx8/v-deo.htmlsi=0br1lgmmk9i1YKQ6
Use 11 or 14 gauge wire with eye hooks. All found at a hardware store. Actually, check my Amazon storefront in the description of any video for a link to the wire.
thanks for your videos. you are really the fig boss. question: what is the nature of the fig roots? is there any problem in planting fig so close to house? will they damage foundation, or start suckering in basement/crawl space?
I haven't seen any evidence of damage to foundations.
Tomatoes grow roots around their stems but they are structural roots. They take little to no water and nutrient
Ross how far apart do i plant me Chicago hardy figs ?
So where can we get Black Madeira reliably?
Got it 4 to 6 feet apart
🙌💚
I have a question for the fig enthusiasts in the community.I've recently moved to Long Island, which is in zone 7b, and I'm planning to plant 3 or 4 fig trees in the ground. Could you recommend which of the following varieties would be best for this area?
VDB
Ronde De Bordeaux
Green Greek
Olympian
Adreano
Italian-258
Smith
White Madeira #1
I also have Celeste, Hardy Chicago, Marseilles Black SV, and some other cold-hardy varieties that thrive in my previous location in Whitestone (zip code 11356, zone 6b). While these trees have produced a lot of figs, they haven't been as flavorful as I’d hoped.I'm curious if anyone living in Long Island has experience with these varieties and can provide advice on which ones might be the most delicious and well-suited for this area.
Any of these will be superior: www.figboss.com/post/my-best-fig-varieties-as-of-2022
What do you do to correct nutrition deficiencies?
Fertilize: www.figboss.com/post/fertilizing-fig-trees-a-guide-to-optimal-growth
I've got 2 bushes that came back from severe vole/rabbit? I thought they were dead. I was thinking of digging them up and just keeping in pots but if I can keep them in the ground, great. How do I keep them from future pest damage? Do the plastic wraps really work?
Don't dig em up. There's a few things you can do, Joy:
1. Don't cover them too soon this fall. Wait until the low is forecasted below 15F.
2. These pellets you can sprinkle around the tree to control them: amzn.to/4df2NhO
3. Get a cat, hehe.
@@RossRaddi Alright, I'll work on the cat😁
When looking for a Black Madeira plant why do I see some that are standard and some KK? What's the difference
The KK source is healthier. That's what I sell. The fruits are no different.
❤
Creeping Charlie around figs, only manual removal?
Smother with woodchips then remove what comes back.
I'm looking to plant fig trees in the ground in Merrick, Long Island (ZIP code 11566). However, my property is at a low elevation near a lake, and the soil tends to be damp at night. What can I do to ensure the successful growth of my fig trees?
Can you plant them in a raised bed or berm? In the Northeast regardless of nearby lakes it's better to plant them 1-2 ft above grade anyway.
@@RossRaddi Yeah but wouldn't that make the roots more susceptible to freeze?
What is a recommended time to do a pretty heavy prune in zone 9a, NW Florida?
At the start of the monsoon season and again during dormancy OR at the coldest time of the year.
@@RossRaddi Okay, the Monsoon season!
I'll research when our Monsoon season maybe.
Is there a certain age we should wait until? It seems like every time I plant one it dies to the ground which is unusual for southern NC. Then after that they grow strongly but still dies to the ground, this has happened with smith and WM#1. Our lowest temperatures are normally around 18-23 degrees.
Yeah. It dies because the new growth didn't lignify properly. Protect it the first year after planting by bending the shoots to the ground and covering them. Next year it'll fruit, grow slowly, and lignify properly. Exactly what you want.
No demonstration!?
There's plenty of demos in other videos.
Itchy?
Mosquitoes.
@@RossRaddiRoss is fine 😂