Thank you! I had a vintage book I'm using to teach a class split in half when I got to the middle chapter--and I mean completely just fell in two in my hands. This method was so simple, and the book is now back in good form.
Nice to see some attention to paperbacks. One or two suggestions, though... Do NOT use Pritt stick, the glue isn't especially reliable but more importantly the solvent used is hydrogen peroxide. Infusing old paper with bleach isn't going to do it any good at all. Restoring the semi-gloss finish is pretty easy, a quick rub down with beeswax will do that. Failing that a rub down with the parafin was from a tea-light will do, it'd just be very slightly flammable and not smell as nice. Also, areas where the paper has eroded will infill a bit, hiding the damage a tad, and, it tends to relaminate weakened areas. It's a no-lose option, I'df recommend doing that even if you don't think the cover really needs it. IMHO, brown parcel paper is a better choice for rebuilding the spine, especially if you cover the entire jacket. Thinner than most other papers and matches the aged paper better. Shouldnt need the strength for support if you glue it properly Adding the wraparound paper sleeve to the pages is completely unhelpful. Wasn't done originally, doesn't need it now. To reseat loose leafs I've had great results with securing the entire block in a clamp with two to three millimeters proud. I use a basic dack and blekker workbench, doesn't have to be fancy, just longer than the book. Use a basic normal wood saw to cut five or six notches across the entire block, not deep, just enough to give a binding point. Brush off dust. Paint with PVA, place spine on top, stack entire thing with very heavy items and wait 24 hours. This will absolutely adhere the pages directly to the spine as they would be originally. This also restores the structural strength of the spine. I could mention other better options, such as using heat activated mylar sheeting, getting a really spiffy guillotine for edge restoration and methods for recreating entire covers but I'm getting the impression you'd generally go for the quick and easy fix (understandable if you're doing a LOT of books) rather than a deep restoration, so, only mentioning those options that would be as quick and cheap as the ones you're already doing. Had a fair amount of success doing the above on paperbacks including a first paperback of starship troopers. Hope this is taken as useful tips rather than scathing criticism; I don't bother writing this much to tell someone I think theyre being a knob ;-)
Really appreciate your time writing such a considered and helpful comment. Thank you. In this video I am really only showing my most basic, self taught skills over the years but I'll definitely take on your advise for future projects.
What an amazing comment I didn't want it to end! Could you tell us more about the process of recreating covers? I love reading about book refurbishing and watching videos too!
'Why bother'? The craftsmanship alone - having it, learning it, passing it to others - makes it worth it. This helped me with repairing my own precious Puffin version of Rumer Godden's 'The Dolls House', gifted me in 1977 and with enormous personal value. Then new skills to learn for old cloth, leather, etc etc books to restore. Many thanks!
Decades ago I used to have a lot of paperback novels which were all bought used. These were mostly 70's prints, some even 60s. Many of them were in this condition some in even worse conditions. Bookworm though I am, I know nothing about book repair and conservation. Thus I did not use anything more than cellophane tape.
I have removed vintage cellotape residue from very old book-covers with eucalyptus oil. You have to be a bit careful as it is quite a powerful solvent. But it doesn't attack paper, or (most) of the types of ink used in "the olden days" (pre-70's). It also evaporates completely within 24 hours, leaving no residue.
You'll be pleased to know that some of the 1930s classic crime novels have been republished by the British Library including Freeman Wills Croft's Death in the Channel (SO many red herrings in that one!); Ethel Lina White's The Wheel Spins (the basis of Hitchcock's film The Lady Vanishes) and Christianna Brand who wrote Green is for Danger (filmed with Alistair Sim) AND the Nurse Matilda series (otherwise known as Nanny McPhee) Such a talented bunch!
Great video Jules. How about using a cotton bud and lighter fluid to remove the old sellotape residue? Works great and won't damage the cover. A tip I learned from toypolloi😉
I did consider this but the older the tape residue, the tougher it can be to remove. I also considered a hair dryer to heat it up then scape it off. I might go back to it later.
Very informative video Jules. Thanks for the tips. I'll most likely be needed them. I watched another good video of tips that Gary Lovisi's wife put out earlier today so I know more than I did. One more thing, I had never seen a paperback with a dust jacket. Amazed me. But I'm new to so much of this but I'm learning more every day thanks to yours and Gary's videos. Much appreciated.
Here from the Pure Unintentional ASMR channel and subscribed to your channel immediately! Lots of videos to catch up on now, thank you for the quality content!
I was listening to an audiobook of King’s “The Gunslinger” by Frank Muller. And in this video your microphone quality sounds exactly like the microphone quality of the audiobook by Frank Muller. So you sounded like him only without the American accent.
Thank you for making this video. The result looks great! I feel inspired to do some repair work on a few old paperbacks we have that are falling apart! Who knew that all it took was some copier paper and a Prit stick? I was wondering how robust is the final article? It seems to me that given how small the surface area of the edge of a page is, is the glue sufficient? I would love to see how far you can safely open the book without any danger of the pages falling out again. Many thanks again for sharing your skills and knowledge with us.
Hi Ravi, thanks! It's been a couple of weeks now since I did this repair and the glue is well set and has kept everything in place. It's totally readable whole obviously using a bit of care. Basically, this was heading to the bin in most people's eyes but now it's been saved, not a bad thing I think.
Perhaps something like a PVA glue applied to the text blocks rough binder edge with the pages clamped together then topped with a layer of paper over the top would be more secure?
Those vintage paperbacks are worth saving. They lasted longer before even needing repair than the equivalent book today. And I think the reason for that is also why they're excellent candidates for the kind of repair you just did. And that is that the older book will have been printed with a more generous left hand margin, so that reading it doesn't require wrenching it open so wide that it causes breaks in the glue bond. I'm almost 70; I've got very well-preserved paperbacks I ordered through my school book club when I was 14 and have read multiple times. Buy the equivalent off the shelf today and the spine is broken and pages are falling out after one reading. They narrowed that margin to fit in the extra "an" or "I", saving them production $$ on pages in the long run. If I had to guess further, it seems they also used to use a more flexible, less brittle glue on those spines back in the day.
Where does the browning and yellowing of the pages come from? I have a book from 1983 that looks similar. Unfortunatley the front cover cracked off the spine, the back cover is ready to do the same
It's usually from a book being stored in a damp environment at some point in it's life. Mould gets in and eventually spreads and starts the foxing process. Also, books stored in a very dry environment tend to age and go brown, plus with the older books, they're often not printed on great paper to begin with!
Great video. Does anybody have tips for front covers that are ripping off? It's sort of a drying and cracking effect and the the front cover rips apart.
Hello Jules, I can understand a 65 yo paperback falling to pieces. I've just looked at the prices of the Forbidden Planet. 😳Those pages don't look too bad. They are not dark yellow to brown like some paperbacks. My book collection is old maths books, it's a much cheaper collection. I guess the subject matter isn't as desirable. LOL Right now, I'm going to attempt my first book repair. It is cheaply-made paperback from Hodder & Staunton, "Teach Yourself Trigonometry". It is disappointing as this is only 18 months old from new and it started falling to bits. It is doing exactly the same thing as your 65 yo novel.
Just a thought, would plasterers 'scrim' be any good? Not the modern self adhesive one but the original old school cotton/nylon sort, as it's a fine mesh and may be suitable for the spine. Like I said, no idea just a thought. Good vid though.
Im particularly interested in this now more than ever since seeing this on your channel. Here in Texas at my local Wal-Mart stores, they have put out a Forbidden Planet "Robbie" the robot. I wanted to ask you if yall have any stores similar, and if you had anything like that? (As far as any Robbie the Robot memorabilia?
i started collecting paperbacks last year. I was wondering if the paper used will last for years. I mean I want to read the same exact book i had in my teenage years when im 80.
Modern publishers often use recycled paper these days, it doesn't last as long, sadly. Same rules apply though, keep dry and away from sun light in a cool environment.
... well done Jules - great result ... I watched because I found a cheap copy of ‘With Mystics and Magicians in Tibet’ - a 1930s Penguin - so I’ll need to restore that a bit once it arrives ... thanks!
Thank you! I had a vintage book I'm using to teach a class split in half when I got to the middle chapter--and I mean completely just fell in two in my hands. This method was so simple, and the book is now back in good form.
Excellent news, glad it helped out!
Nice to see some attention to paperbacks.
One or two suggestions, though...
Do NOT use Pritt stick, the glue isn't especially reliable but more importantly the solvent used is hydrogen peroxide. Infusing old paper with bleach isn't going to do it any good at all.
Restoring the semi-gloss finish is pretty easy, a quick rub down with beeswax will do that. Failing that a rub down with the parafin was from a tea-light will do, it'd just be very slightly flammable and not smell as nice. Also, areas where the paper has eroded will infill a bit, hiding the damage a tad, and, it tends to relaminate weakened areas. It's a no-lose option, I'df recommend doing that even if you don't think the cover really needs it.
IMHO, brown parcel paper is a better choice for rebuilding the spine, especially if you cover the entire jacket. Thinner than most other papers and matches the aged paper better. Shouldnt need the strength for support if you glue it properly
Adding the wraparound paper sleeve to the pages is completely unhelpful. Wasn't done originally, doesn't need it now. To reseat loose leafs I've had great results with securing the entire block in a clamp with two to three millimeters proud. I use a basic dack and blekker workbench, doesn't have to be fancy, just longer than the book. Use a basic normal wood saw to cut five or six notches across the entire block, not deep, just enough to give a binding point. Brush off dust. Paint with PVA, place spine on top, stack entire thing with very heavy items and wait 24 hours. This will absolutely adhere the pages directly to the spine as they would be originally. This also restores the structural strength of the spine.
I could mention other better options, such as using heat activated mylar sheeting, getting a really spiffy guillotine for edge restoration and methods for recreating entire covers but I'm getting the impression you'd generally go for the quick and easy fix (understandable if you're doing a LOT of books) rather than a deep restoration, so, only mentioning those options that would be as quick and cheap as the ones you're already doing.
Had a fair amount of success doing the above on paperbacks including a first paperback of starship troopers.
Hope this is taken as useful tips rather than scathing criticism; I don't bother writing this much to tell someone I think theyre being a knob ;-)
Really appreciate your time writing such a considered and helpful comment. Thank you.
In this video I am really only showing my most basic, self taught skills over the years but I'll definitely take on your advise for future projects.
What an amazing comment I didn't want it to end!
Could you tell us more about the process of recreating covers? I love reading about book refurbishing and watching videos too!
It's not something I do, fill on recreating covers, but search for Gary Lovisi as his channel has a few videos on the subject🙂
amazing. expert.
Thanks 👍
bookbinder's gauze to join the two sections of cover, then acid-free white glue to join the block to the cover
That's worth investigating.
You'd use the book binding gauze on the inside?
👍
'Why bother'? The craftsmanship alone - having it, learning it, passing it to others - makes it worth it. This helped me with repairing my own precious Puffin version of Rumer Godden's 'The Dolls House', gifted me in 1977 and with enormous personal value. Then new skills to learn for old cloth, leather, etc etc books to restore. Many thanks!
Excellent stuff, thanks so much my friend 👍
So relaxing to watch
Awesome, thanks so much🙂👍
Thank you! Just what I was looking for after a paperback fell apart in my hands this morning.
Excellent stuff 👍
As a book lover and a lover of historie in general i love that you putt the efford in!
Great stuff, thanks🙂
Shout out to the Bob Ross of book repairing
Thanks James🙂
Fabulous restoration advice!
Thanks Frances, glad it was useful👍
Nanobristle toothbrushes may be good for this. They are extra soft but clean very efficiently and would be kind to the paper. Great info here!
They certainly work well on delicate books. I only use a very soft brush though.👍
@@JulesBurt It is so refreshing to see someone save books to live another day.
I love this video. Super relaxing. Thank you
My pleasure, glad you enjoyed it 🙂👍
Decades ago I used to have a lot of paperback novels which were all bought used. These were mostly 70's prints, some even 60s. Many of them were in this condition some in even worse conditions. Bookworm though I am, I know nothing about book repair and conservation. Thus I did not use anything more than cellophane tape.
Fair enough! Well, of you ever get the urge, I hope you found this video useful🙂
Beautiful job
Thanks Alex👍
Great video, Jules! Fantastic to see a fellow Plymothian with a fantastic paperback collection.
Thanks Ian, some amazing haul videos coming up, starting tonight.
love the content inspired me to look for the ebook version lol
Great stuff, the actual story is worth tracking down👍
I have removed vintage cellotape residue from very old book-covers with eucalyptus oil. You have to be a bit careful as it is quite a powerful solvent. But it doesn't attack paper, or (most) of the types of ink used in "the olden days" (pre-70's). It also evaporates completely within 24 hours, leaving no residue.
Thanks Robert, I'll bear that in mind.
You'll be pleased to know that some of the 1930s classic crime novels have been republished by the British Library including Freeman Wills Croft's Death in the Channel (SO many red herrings in that one!); Ethel Lina White's The Wheel Spins (the basis of Hitchcock's film The Lady Vanishes) and Christianna Brand who wrote Green is for Danger (filmed with Alistair Sim) AND the Nurse Matilda series (otherwise known as Nanny McPhee)
Such a talented bunch!
Indeed, I have a few of those reprints,they're are very well produced👍
One suggestion link the polish or American equivalent. You mentioned furniture polish but are we talking pledge, Murphy Oil Soap, etc.? Cheers
In the UK, I use Mr Sheen. No idea of the overseas equivalent, sorry.
Great video Jules. How about using a cotton bud and lighter fluid to remove the old sellotape residue? Works great and won't damage the cover. A tip I learned from toypolloi😉
I did consider this but the older the tape residue, the tougher it can be to remove. I also considered a hair dryer to heat it up then scape it off. I might go back to it later.
@@JulesBurt In the US, Goo Gone or Goof Off are good on tape.
@@JulesBurt For rare Armada Paperbacks, I find that Surgical Spirit works a treat.
Brilliant video... How should I go about repairing a front cover that's ripped off its spine cover?
Thanks Ricky! I'd need to see your book before I could advise you my friend 🙂
Very informative video Jules. Thanks for the tips. I'll most likely be needed them. I watched another good video of
tips that Gary Lovisi's wife put out earlier today so I know more than I did.
One more thing, I had never seen a paperback with a dust jacket.
Amazed me. But I'm new to so much of this but I'm learning more every day thanks to yours and Gary's videos.
Much appreciated.
Excellent stuff Alvin, glad my videos are helping. In the UK, almost all pre WW2 paperbacks came with dustwrappers. 🙂
@@JulesBurt You have a top shelf collection Jules .Thanks for showing it to us . 👍😊
My pleasure Alvin, still lots to come in the future🙂
This is Good 👍
Thanks 👍
Here from the Pure Unintentional ASMR channel and subscribed to your channel immediately! Lots of videos to catch up on now, thank you for the quality content!
Ah, brilliant and welcome, hope you enjoy every one🙂
I was listening to an audiobook of King’s “The Gunslinger” by Frank Muller. And in this video your microphone quality sounds exactly like the microphone quality of the audiobook by Frank Muller. So you sounded like him only without the American accent.
Cool, I think! I certainly don't have that much of a professional mic but I try not to talk to quickly🙂
What kind of product do you use for clean at the minute 7?
Mr Sheen furniture polish 👍
@@JulesBurt Thanks for your answer. Greetings from South América.
Thanks 👍
Why did you cover a portion of the text on the last page with the second re-enforcement paper? Should the paper be a little less wide?
Yep. It was a first attempt and had quite a few mistakes tbh, it's a learning process.
Thank you for making this video. The result looks great! I feel inspired to do some repair work on a few old paperbacks we have that are falling apart! Who knew that all it took was some copier paper and a Prit stick? I was wondering how robust is the final article? It seems to me that given how small the surface area of the edge of a page is, is the glue sufficient? I would love to see how far you can safely open the book without any danger of the pages falling out again. Many thanks again for sharing your skills and knowledge with us.
Hi Ravi, thanks! It's been a couple of weeks now since I did this repair and the glue is well set and has kept everything in place. It's totally readable whole obviously using a bit of care. Basically, this was heading to the bin in most people's eyes but now it's been saved, not a bad thing I think.
@@JulesBurt As you said, it would have been a crime to throw away a classic like 'Forbidden Planet!'
Totally 🙂
Perhaps something like a PVA glue applied to the text blocks rough binder edge with the pages clamped together then topped with a layer of paper over the top would be more secure?
All good suggestions 👍
Link for the glue?
Here we are Julie...amzn.to/3LeJVEt
Those vintage paperbacks are worth saving. They lasted longer before even needing repair than the equivalent book today. And I think the reason for that is also why they're excellent candidates for the kind of repair you just did. And that is that the older book will have been printed with a more generous left hand margin, so that reading it doesn't require wrenching it open so wide that it causes breaks in the glue bond. I'm almost 70; I've got very well-preserved paperbacks I ordered through my school book club when I was 14 and have read multiple times. Buy the equivalent off the shelf today and the spine is broken and pages are falling out after one reading. They narrowed that margin to fit in the extra "an" or "I", saving them production $$ on pages in the long run. If I had to guess further, it seems they also used to use a more flexible, less brittle glue on those spines back in the day.
Thanks, I totally agree, on the whole, books were better produced back in the day 👍
Where does the browning and yellowing of the pages come from? I have a book from 1983 that looks similar. Unfortunatley the front cover cracked off the spine, the back cover is ready to do the same
It's usually from a book being stored in a damp environment at some point in it's life. Mould gets in and eventually spreads and starts the foxing process. Also, books stored in a very dry environment tend to age and go brown, plus with the older books, they're often not printed on great paper to begin with!
Great video. Does anybody have tips for front covers that are ripping off? It's sort of a drying and cracking effect and the the front cover rips apart.
Each book is a bit different but watch a few more of my repair videos to get a few ideas👍
Hi Jules. Just wondering which Mr Sheen you use for cleaning?
It's just the standard furniture polish one.
@@JulesBurt Thanks
Hello Jules, I can understand a 65 yo paperback falling to pieces. I've just looked at the prices of the Forbidden Planet. 😳Those pages don't look too bad. They are not dark yellow to brown like some paperbacks. My book collection is old maths books, it's a much cheaper collection. I guess the subject matter isn't as desirable. LOL Right now, I'm going to attempt my first book repair. It is cheaply-made paperback from Hodder & Staunton, "Teach Yourself Trigonometry". It is disappointing as this is only 18 months old from new and it started falling to bits. It is doing exactly the same thing as your 65 yo novel.
Wow, sounds like the binding glue on your maths book is pretty awful, hope you fixed it!
Just a thought, would plasterers 'scrim' be any good?
Not the modern self adhesive one but the original old school cotton/nylon sort, as it's a fine mesh and may be suitable for the spine.
Like I said, no idea just a thought.
Good vid though.
Thanks Simon, definitely worth a try for sure. If I had some, I'd experiment 🙂
Generally speaking, how does this affect the monetary value of a book?
It's a lot more presentable than it was so would probably sell for more. High grade, unrestored books fetch better prices though.
Im particularly interested in this now more than ever since seeing this on your channel. Here in Texas at my local Wal-Mart stores, they have put out a Forbidden Planet "Robbie" the robot. I wanted to ask you if yall have any stores similar, and if you had anything like that? (As far as any Robbie the Robot memorabilia?
There were a few Robbie toys made, not many, but a few. I've not got any myself. There is a super rare tin toy from the 50's that is awesome!👍🙂
i started collecting paperbacks last year. I was wondering if the paper used will last for years. I mean I want to read the same exact book i had in my teenage years when im 80.
Keep it in a cool environment and it'll be fine. I have paperbacks from 1880 and they are ok.
@@JulesBurt omg thanks
No worries!
@@JulesBurtthey are from HarperCollins, the paper isn't the best quality, i still kinda worry about it 😔
Modern publishers often use recycled paper these days, it doesn't last as long, sadly. Same rules apply though, keep dry and away from sun light in a cool environment.
I use sandpaper instead of brush
I have experimented a bit with sandpaper on small marks but find the brush better to remove light dust.
@@JulesBurt sandpaper is better because it gets rid of brown stain, or at least whiten tge edges.
Any way to cure foxing?
Not to my knowledge.
bit like watching an old blue peter
Without the stick back plastic👍
👍
🙂👍
... good ... although I suspect some rather dubious practice that would be frowned upon by the ‘paper conservation’ pedants ...
It was one step from the bin, I'm happy with it🙂
... well done Jules - great result ... I watched because I found a cheap copy of ‘With Mystics and Magicians in Tibet’ - a 1930s Penguin - so I’ll need to restore that a bit once it arrives ... thanks!
Excellent, it takes a bit of time but certainly worth the effort 🙂
Yes!! First again.
Awesome, hope you enjoyed it Roger!