This is likely the most over looked and honestly the most important part of a MOPAR resto! JMO! All the nice paint and body work and interior will not matter if it goes up in fire. I replaced every last piece of wire in my 69 fish. What I could not purchase over the counter, I sent to the manufacturer and they gave me back old and new in exactness! I cut into many of the old harnesses just to have a look and green badness went deep!! If you want your classic to run good and flawlessly you need to the same! That green means resistance and more! DO NOT SKIMP HERE! JMO!
I have an unrestored 70 Plymouth Road Runner, daily driver and I just purchased a 68 Dodge Charger 383/4 bbl- non- R/T car. The Charger needs plenty of attention, so video's like this help out. I'm in Jax, Fl, retired Navy Chief and I will take my time with both cars. Just need to either find a good lock-smith, or put in new locks as the car didn't come with any.
Great video Mike! Beautiful car! Thanks for sharing! The radiator,a/c information was a great help in a restoration I am just starting. I am in the process of restoring a 1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Fastback. Long way to go but I am excited about the project. The radiator info was especially helpful (22" vs. 26"). I did not know that the A bodies used the same size radiator as the early B bodies. Good information! Thanks again, Tom 👍
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. I have a original 71 Demon that I'm planning to completely rewiring in the next couple years. Definitely nervous about the job haha, of all my skills electrical is by far my lowest amount of experience/skill. As of right all the the electrical is still good. But being the wires are 50 years old, I know the time is near.
Great video, wondering if you can give me a hand with a few wires I have disconnected. Mine is a 69 Charger rt / se, I would imagine that the wiring is the same as yours. I have a 4 wire connector by the fuse box. It has 2 yellow wires, 1 black, 1 black & gray. I also have to 2 wires that go to the fuse box 1 wire is pink/yellow & another solid yellow. Only pink/yellow is connected to the fuse box the yellow is not connected. Finally I have a green and blue wires that are lose. Think those are for the tach, not sure. Other than tachometer everything works so I have I don't even know where to start with those disconnected wires.
Great video I just want to mention that I saw a video explaining dielectric grease is only for use on stuff like rubber spark plug boots and bulb rubber seals. It will make your connections weak to receive current hence DIE lectric “ it lessons the current to the connections. I’m not an electrician so I don’t know if that’s true. Thanks 🙏
No that's not true. The properties dont hinder electrical current. I use delicate electronic equipment for work and use it for all connections. Helps prevent corrosion and repels moisture with no loss of signal.
It isnt a conductor however since it prevents corrosion it protects from poor connections due to corrosion. You still need a good metal to metal contact.
I have Hagarty insurance. After seeing this video I’m wondering if they would cut me a check to replace my wiring harness. Mine didn’t Catch on fire but the bulkhead connection melted, thank goodness it didn’t catch on fire because I didn’t have an ice tea with me at the time lol
@@mikesmopargarage4734 forgot to reply back, so here it goes, I sent the the photos of the melting of the wiring harness. They wanted photos of where it plugged into anything and anything that was near the melted harness. since there wasn’t any damage of the vehicle from the melting wires they will not cover the wiring harness. Only if it was damaged related to fire......
The starter clutch in my 68 Charger is about to completely give up....440 w/headers...I have an in ground full car lift and I'm still dreading it ! Hoping I can afford manifolds before I have to change it.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 Yep, had to lift the engine last time and take left header and starter out kinda all at the same time. That was about 20 years ago. But I recall it still being a bitch. Planning on going back with manifolds and later model mini starter....will miss that Mopar starter sound though.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 Your vid made me look up manifolds again since it has been a while and sure enough Year One is selling them for about half the price they used to be : ) So, I'll probably cut my headers out with a sawzall, and lessen the fight once I have the manifolds :) ..BTW Mike, sorry I haven't said so yet, your Charger is absolutely Beautiful !!
Awesome! I’m getting ready to replace all the wiring from the firewall forward on my 68. I restored mine in 2001 when I was 16 and couldn’t remember if the windshield had to come out to get the dash out and your video confirms that ughh. Did you bypass the amp meter or reroute the power wire that runs through the bulkhead connector through another hole? I’ve heard of that wire causing a ton of fires in old mopars.
I ran the wire form the alternator directly to the starter relay. This puts the ammeter in parallel. It is still hooked up but does not read correctly. I installed a volt meter to keep tabs on charging system.
I have a brand New one. Doesn't fit. The radiator is to thick. I have a Griffin Muscle car series Aluminum fan and its thicker than stock. Works awesome now, just curious how it will work adding AC.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 Hayden 29-47 short hub fan clutch. I did a video on my setup, Check it out on my channel. It’s titled max wedge cooling system... its a few yrs old now. If you want a stock type hi perf setup this is it. Cheers
@@sandozman6085 Just watched your video, that is the ticket. Just what I need. I already have the 7 blade fan so I should be good once I get that new clutch.
Absolutely. I suppose you could replace harness in place but holy hell it would be difficult. Besides I'm also replacing AC box and brake booster. I cant imagine trying to do it without taking out dash.
@@stevenjaskolka its just below the vacuum lines for headlights and just to the left of the bulkhead connector. Give me an email address and I will send you some pics
This is likely the most over looked and honestly the most important part of a MOPAR resto! JMO! All the nice paint and body work and interior will not matter if it goes up in fire.
I replaced every last piece of wire in my 69 fish. What I could not purchase over the counter, I sent to the manufacturer and they gave me back old and new in exactness!
I cut into many of the old harnesses just to have a look and green badness went deep!! If you want your classic to run good and flawlessly you need to the same!
That green means resistance and more! DO NOT SKIMP HERE! JMO!
I have a 66 charger, 383 and except for the winter it is my daily driver, I have not seen another 66 Charger in many years. Chick Magnet Blue.
I have an unrestored 70 Plymouth Road Runner, daily driver and I just purchased a 68 Dodge Charger 383/4 bbl- non- R/T car. The Charger needs plenty of attention, so video's like this help out. I'm in Jax, Fl, retired Navy Chief and I will take my time with both cars. Just need to either find a good lock-smith, or put in new locks as the car didn't come with any.
I've rebuilt or replace every single part on my car. If you need any info just let me know.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 Thanks. I sure will.
Great video Mike! Beautiful car! Thanks for sharing! The radiator,a/c information was a great help in a restoration I am just starting. I am in the process of restoring a 1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Fastback. Long way to go but I am excited about the project. The radiator info was especially helpful (22" vs. 26"). I did not know that the A bodies used the same size radiator as the early B bodies. Good information! Thanks again, Tom 👍
Glad you enjoyed it.
Glad I could help
Great Help man. Thanks for this video
Glad to help
Beautiful Charger Mike! Thank you for sharing the updates
Thanks, appreciate it. more to come
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. I have a original 71 Demon that I'm planning to completely rewiring in the next couple years. Definitely nervous about the job haha, of all my skills electrical is by far my lowest amount of experience/skill. As of right all the the electrical is still good. But being the wires are 50 years old, I know the time is near.
You can do it. Go slow and take your time. Use that dielectric grease!
Great video, wondering if you can give me a hand with a few wires I have disconnected. Mine is a 69 Charger rt / se, I would imagine that the wiring is the same as yours. I have a 4 wire connector by the fuse box. It has 2 yellow wires, 1 black, 1 black & gray. I also have to 2 wires that go to the fuse box 1 wire is pink/yellow & another solid yellow. Only pink/yellow is connected to the fuse box the yellow is not connected. Finally I have a green and blue wires that are lose. Think those are for the tach, not sure. Other than tachometer everything works so I have I don't even know where to start with those disconnected wires.
Great video I just want to mention that I saw a video explaining dielectric grease is only for use on stuff like rubber spark plug boots and bulb rubber seals. It will make your connections weak to receive current hence DIE lectric “ it lessons the current to the connections. I’m not an electrician so I don’t know if that’s true. Thanks 🙏
No that's not true. The properties dont hinder electrical current. I use delicate electronic equipment for work and use it for all connections. Helps prevent corrosion and repels moisture with no loss of signal.
It isnt a conductor however since it prevents corrosion it protects from poor connections due to corrosion. You still need a good metal to metal contact.
Haha always drinking Ice tea 😎
Daughter should definitely get it.
Looks like you have a big fuse by the bulkhead connector. Is that on the ammeter wire
I have Hagarty insurance. After seeing this video I’m wondering if they would cut me a check to replace my wiring harness. Mine didn’t Catch on fire but the bulkhead connection melted, thank goodness it didn’t catch on fire because I didn’t have an ice tea with me at the time lol
Wont hurt to try. Good Luck, let me know how it turns out.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 forgot to reply back, so here it goes, I sent the the photos of the melting of the wiring harness. They wanted photos of where it plugged into anything and anything that was near the melted harness. since there wasn’t any damage of the vehicle from the melting wires they will not cover the wiring harness. Only if it was damaged related to fire......
The starter clutch in my 68 Charger is about to completely give up....440 w/headers...I have an in ground full car lift and I'm still dreading it ! Hoping I can afford manifolds before I have to change it.
Yea good luck. You more than likely will have to unbolt motor mounts and tilt motor over.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 Yep, had to lift the engine last time and take left header and starter out kinda all at the same time. That was about 20 years ago. But I recall it still being a bitch. Planning on going back with manifolds and later model mini starter....will miss that Mopar starter sound though.
@@WisdomVendor1 exactly why i made the comments in the video. lol
@@mikesmopargarage4734 Your vid made me look up manifolds again since it has been a while and sure enough Year One is selling them for about half the price they used to be : ) So, I'll probably cut my headers out with a sawzall, and lessen the fight once I have the manifolds :) ..BTW Mike, sorry I haven't said so yet, your Charger is absolutely Beautiful !!
@@WisdomVendor1 Good luck with the change over. You will be glad you did. I appreciate it. I've had it for almost 23 years.
Awesome! I’m getting ready to replace all the wiring from the firewall forward on my 68. I restored mine in 2001 when I was 16 and couldn’t remember if the windshield had to come out to get the dash out and your video confirms that ughh. Did you bypass the amp meter or reroute the power wire that runs through the bulkhead connector through another hole? I’ve heard of that wire causing a ton of fires in old mopars.
I ran the wire form the alternator directly to the starter relay. This puts the ammeter in parallel. It is still hooked up but does not read correctly. I installed a volt meter to keep tabs on charging system.
Nice video.. too bad yout road runner was ruined. But in 1990 when it happened car worth was not much so full insurance would not give much right ?
They gave men$1000 and let me keep the car.
Hemi fan and clutch. Prolly help your too cool condition too.
Although I would think the thermostat should keep you @ 180...
I have a brand New one. Doesn't fit. The radiator is to thick. I have a Griffin Muscle car series Aluminum fan and its thicker than stock. Works awesome now, just curious how it will work adding AC.
@@mikesmopargarage4734
Hayden 29-47 short hub fan clutch.
I did a video on my setup, Check it out on my channel. It’s titled max wedge cooling system... its a few yrs old now.
If you want a stock type hi perf setup this is it.
Cheers
@@sandozman6085 Heck yea, I will check it out
@@sandozman6085 Just watched your video, that is the ticket. Just what I need. I already have the 7 blade fan so I should be good once I get that new clutch.
@@mikesmopargarage4734
Glad i could help.
You should be good for clearance, seeing i have the elephant ears and it fits for me.
Mike are you going to the Ace Mopar show next Saturday in Orlando????
No. unfortunately wont make it
Mike's Mopar Garage bummer! Till next time.
Great video and car, thank you! Just a quick question, was it necessary (or just much easier) to remove the entire dash first?
Absolutely. I suppose you could replace harness in place but holy hell it would be difficult. Besides I'm also replacing AC box and brake booster. I cant imagine trying to do it without taking out dash.
Stay tuned for those videos as well
Looks cool!
Nice video... what company did you get the under dash harness
Thanks for the comment. I got harness from Classic Industries
Diaelectric grease is non coductive and should never be put in an electric connection. On
top of battery terminals
And inside of plug boots etc.
Theres a plug that you have taped up with white,red, and 2 orange wires. What does it go to?
not sure which one your talking about?
Not sure which one your talking about?
You have blue tape on it. Directly under the gauge cluster around the ignition cylinder area
@@caseyhubbard7228 Not sure cant tell from video. Im out of town for work. I will be home this weekend and let you know.
Casey- Sorry for the delay getting back to ya. Work kind of crazy. That plug is for the original radio
Can you tell me where the end of the tach harness goes
It runs through it's own little grommet in the fire wall. Then another wire connects to it from the coil.
@@mikesmopargarage4734 hmm i dont see any holes left.. which side of firewall... and vaccumm lines.. location on firewall?
@@stevenjaskolka its just below the vacuum lines for headlights and just to the left of the bulkhead connector. Give me an email address and I will send you some pics
@@mikesmopargarage4734 om all set thanks.. the whole is not there thanks for your time..