Thank you for explaining this so plainly. A recent experience with a contractor & his crew left me wanting to figure out how to remodel my bathroom myself (I'm barely a diyer)
I'm half way through tiling 120sq ft in my master bath w/ 12x24s. 1st time in my life doing tiles. Thanks to this channel and a handful of others, I haven't made any beginner mistakes! Yet 🤣 Tip: I've found that mixing 25lbs (half a bag) at a time is all that I can handle at my speed. ALSO: I had 2 or 3 Ditra high-spots from thinset buildup. I used a grout float, but still missed these spots. Use a 4' level to check before it sets up! Cutting the spots out took a lot of time, but gave me a lot of confidence in how strong the Ditra membrane really is. Tiling over Ditra goes through some serious thinset; maybe 15sqft per 25lbs. Back-buttering a 12x24 tile is also a royal pain! These guys make it look easy. I'm 3 weeks into a shower/bathtub removal and 4x6 shower pan install. Including plumbing and electrical, I'm just now half-way through tiling the floor.
Thanks for all the tips! I'm about to start my bathroom floor with 12x24 tiles and just avoided multiple mistakes. Also, love the Steelers 5-gal bucket!
Man, oh man. I loved that video. So many details to take in, thank you. I was taking a break from mapping out a design for my bathroom and this vid was so enjoyable.
Yes, I always clean and dampen the plywood prior to applying ALL-SET. Then I applying it first with the flat side of the trowel followed by the notched side. Great question
What is the ideal thickness of the subfloor for tiling (13x13), with Ditra? My 5x5 bath was 1/2" + 5/8" but the cast iron flange was just below that! Add Ditra and tile, and I'm 1/2" above the flange.
My subfloor is 1/2” and is in great condition. Is it necessary to remove it just to have 3/4”? Also, I’m using cement board. Do I need to do any prep work to my subfloor before placing the cement board? The cement board I have has the waterproof membrane included
@@Bowlife93 keep in mind, cement board does not add any structural stability. Some additional questions: what’s the joist span? What type of tile are you installing?
@@HomeRepairTutor did not expect such a quick response! I appreciate it so much. Joists are 16” on center. My wife hasn’t picked out a tile yet but looking at 12x24 porcelain tile
@@HomeRepairTutor I’m just using it because I was told I had to for tile work. I’m also using it on the wall around the tub. Subfloor, cement board screwed to subfloor, mortar, then tile.
@@Bowlife93 you can always use cement board, but I tend to prefer DITRA because it’s thinner at 1/8” thick and provides an additional waterproofing layer. Cement board is good if you’re using a penny tile but in this scenario you don’t need it. The issue is your subfloor thickness. Schluter recommends it be 5/8” minimum. And you cannot use 1/4” plywood over it, but you can use 3/8” plywood instead. The 1/4” plywood will delaminate and cause your floor to fail. Thus, I’d either add the 3/8” plywood or tear out the 1/2” plywood and use 3/4” to make the floor stronger. Then I’d install the DITRA.
That’s a great question and I have a lot of books, but cannot recommend one definitive source. I like the NKBA book on bathroom design but it doesn’t delve into remodeling. Right now I’m working on something inside homerepairtutor.com that be a big help but it’ll be a work in progress. Normally I just help people with their specific questions to help clarify ideas and speed up their work
@@HomeRepairTutor i appreciate your response! I watch all your videos and can do just about every facet of home repair and remodeling, but doing a shower in an upstairs bathroom has me skittish. its not something i want leaking thru the floor becuase i missed a step or did it wrong. sometimes having a book on best methods or practices is easier for me. I'll keep going thru your videos should i decide to tackle this on my own
Hey can you help me? I am trying to tackle my bathroom complete remodel. I have laid the Subfloor and I want to use Ditra but my floor is not quite level. I am thinking about using a self leveler over my subfloor, can I do this before putting down the thin set?
Self leveler should be applied before DITRA. Then, depending on the leveler, you can apply thin-set to bond your DITRA. If the leveler is gypsum-based, you need to seal it.
It’s a good question and I normally say no because of several reasons. First, I like to inspect the joists for big notches or bored holes that compromise the strength of the structure. If you add more weight to these joists you run the risk of them breaking or the floor sagging which will crack your tile and possibly harm someone. As such, I recommend waiting and saving the money to do it properly.
@@ladawnemalone2955 thank you 🙏🏼 I know it delays your project but it’s the best option to inspect your framing. And you can always contact me if you have more questions
No, because if you use 1/4” plywood then DITRA, the thin-set will delaminate the 1/4” plywood. Your DITRA will in turn not bond properly and the tile will fail. What kind of tile will you be using on the floor?
@@nismo613 I like porcelain tile because it’s strong and doesn’t require double plywood like stone. Tiles with straight lines are easier to maintain than mosaics. So I’m partial to squares or rectangles
@@HomeRepairTutor Technically yes, but if your are using Ditra, no. The person didn't specify in there question about the use of Ditra, so technically you can bond another piece of plywood to another this way. Not debating the use of Ditra in this case.
Thanks for mentioning that your going to be sore the next day. Working in small spaces on your knees will WEAR YOUR ASS OUT. you do great work brother.
I from Sweden and there its a big no no to have hole in the floor for water, like there is in this case för the water to the toilet. Thats för the increased risk för water leakage. Pipes need to come from the walls or roof.
That is interesting. Please forgive me if this question is insulting. That is the drain for the toilet. In Sweden, the drain would go out into a pipe in the wall? Is that what you mean? And what about the shower drains...or floor drains?
That’s only available for DITRA-HEAT mats, not DITRA yet. I’ve installed both and am excited to see if the DITRA will be available with the pressure sensitive adhesive. I’ll be making a video about the DITRA-HEAT-PS 🙌🏼🔥
lol I knew someone would comment on that little rant about HGTV. I’d say don’t get me started but too late lol. Not all projects are terrible. But TV shows are problematic in that they train homeowners to think it won’t take them long or that contractors are overcharging, either way it’s bad. So ya, I’m not a fan of produced HGTV shows
@@HomeRepairTutor Yup, all the home reno shows here in Australia are the same. They are helping to feed the big hardware stores numbnuts who falsely believe that full bathroom reno is dead easy. . . "as seen on tv" Those programs mostly get their hardware stuff for free so its a mutual back scratching exercise.
You never use tiles that big on a bathroom floor. It’s a huge mistake. You can’t pitch it right and they are prone crack. Make a pro look like a helper
This is outside the shower over 16” on-center joists with a double layer of 3/4” plywood. These tiles, when set properly over DITRA will not crack. There’s more than 95% thin-set coverage and the Tile Council only requires 80% - so this installation exceeds the industry standards
I've watched countless how-to videos on a wide variety of topics and this is probably the best video I have seen.
@@rr8641 🙏🏽🙏🏽
Thank you for explaining this so plainly. A recent experience with a contractor & his crew left me wanting to figure out how to remodel my bathroom myself (I'm barely a diyer)
Happy to help 🙏🏼 thank you for watching
How’d it go
Any updates on how it went?
I'm half way through tiling 120sq ft in my master bath w/ 12x24s. 1st time in my life doing tiles. Thanks to this channel and a handful of others, I haven't made any beginner mistakes! Yet 🤣 Tip: I've found that mixing 25lbs (half a bag) at a time is all that I can handle at my speed. ALSO: I had 2 or 3 Ditra high-spots from thinset buildup. I used a grout float, but still missed these spots. Use a 4' level to check before it sets up! Cutting the spots out took a lot of time, but gave me a lot of confidence in how strong the Ditra membrane really is. Tiling over Ditra goes through some serious thinset; maybe 15sqft per 25lbs. Back-buttering a 12x24 tile is also a royal pain! These guys make it look easy. I'm 3 weeks into a shower/bathtub removal and 4x6 shower pan install. Including plumbing and electrical, I'm just now half-way through tiling the floor.
Thanks for all the tips! I'm about to start my bathroom floor with 12x24 tiles and just avoided multiple mistakes.
Also, love the Steelers 5-gal bucket!
Awesome, glad it was helpful. Ya, there are a lot of places to make mistakes. So hopefully this video is a useful guide. As always, Go Steelers 🙌🏼
Thank you your video. I can see, you tiled niche with 45 deg tile cut. Do you have video for this installation
I have several videos inside my Video Library on homerepairtutor.com - they show how to miter the tiles and create custom shower shelves for niches 👍🏼
Thx for showing us how it’s done.
Man, oh man. I loved that video. So many details to take in, thank you. I was taking a break from mapping out a design for my bathroom and this vid was so enjoyable.
@@Ever_Think thank you 🙏🏽
If you use a pre sloped kerdi shower pan do you still need uncoupling membrane underneath? Or just thinset on subfloor and shower pan set on top?
No, for a pre sloped KERDI pan you don’t need DITRA underneath, just thin-set to support and bond the tray to plywood or concrete
Would you still recommend installing the Ditra adhered with thinset if using waterproof click and lock laminate flooring as opposed to ceramic tile?
Sore! You got that right! Thanks for the content.
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Did you wet the plywood first or is it not necessary with allset?
Yes, I always clean and dampen the plywood prior to applying ALL-SET. Then I applying it first with the flat side of the trowel followed by the notched side. Great question
This was an awesome lesson. Thanks man!
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
What is the ideal thickness of the subfloor for tiling (13x13), with Ditra? My 5x5 bath was 1/2" + 5/8" but the cast iron flange was just below that! Add Ditra and tile, and I'm 1/2" above the flange.
The minimum Schluter recommends over 16” oc joists is 5/8” plywood or OSB. If you need to raise the flange you can do that with a few options
Great tips!
My subfloor is 1/2” and is in great condition. Is it necessary to remove it just to have 3/4”? Also, I’m using cement board. Do I need to do any prep work to my subfloor before placing the cement board? The cement board I have has the waterproof membrane included
@@Bowlife93 keep in mind, cement board does not add any structural stability. Some additional questions: what’s the joist span? What type of tile are you installing?
@@HomeRepairTutor did not expect such a quick response! I appreciate it so much. Joists are 16” on center. My wife hasn’t picked out a tile yet but looking at 12x24 porcelain tile
@@Bowlife93 are you using the cement board for a specific reason, eg to raise the floor at the doorway? Btw, 16” on-center is great.
@@HomeRepairTutor I’m just using it because I was told I had to for tile work. I’m also using it on the wall around the tub. Subfloor, cement board screwed to subfloor, mortar, then tile.
@@Bowlife93 you can always use cement board, but I tend to prefer DITRA because it’s thinner at 1/8” thick and provides an additional waterproofing layer. Cement board is good if you’re using a penny tile but in this scenario you don’t need it. The issue is your subfloor thickness. Schluter recommends it be 5/8” minimum. And you cannot use 1/4” plywood over it, but you can use 3/8” plywood instead. The 1/4” plywood will delaminate and cause your floor to fail. Thus, I’d either add the 3/8” plywood or tear out the 1/2” plywood and use 3/4” to make the floor stronger. Then I’d install the DITRA.
Can you use the ditra trowel for the tile laying? I have 12x24 tile. So I need a different trowel for my tile laying?
Normally I’d use a 1/4” x 3/8” or 1/2” x 1/2” square notched trowel for 12 x 24
aside from your videos, do you have any recommendations for a hard copy book for bathroom tiling or remodeling?
That’s a great question and I have a lot of books, but cannot recommend one definitive source. I like the NKBA book on bathroom design but it doesn’t delve into remodeling. Right now I’m working on something inside homerepairtutor.com that be a big help but it’ll be a work in progress. Normally I just help people with their specific questions to help clarify ideas and speed up their work
@@HomeRepairTutor i appreciate your response! I watch all your videos and can do just about every facet of home repair and remodeling, but doing a shower in an upstairs bathroom has me skittish. its not something i want leaking thru the floor becuase i missed a step or did it wrong. sometimes having a book on best methods or practices is easier for me. I'll keep going thru your videos should i decide to tackle this on my own
Hey can you help me? I am trying to tackle my bathroom complete remodel. I have laid the Subfloor and I want to use Ditra but my floor is not quite level. I am thinking about using a self leveler over my subfloor, can I do this before putting down the thin set?
Self leveler should be applied before DITRA. Then, depending on the leveler, you can apply thin-set to bond your DITRA. If the leveler is gypsum-based, you need to seal it.
As a DIY I don’t have the funds to get rid of our old tile floor. Can I put a subfloor on top of a tile floor then tile on top of it 😕
That sounds like a bad idea
It’s a good question and I normally say no because of several reasons. First, I like to inspect the joists for big notches or bored holes that compromise the strength of the structure. If you add more weight to these joists you run the risk of them breaking or the floor sagging which will crack your tile and possibly harm someone. As such, I recommend waiting and saving the money to do it properly.
Thanks for your input I wish you could come do the work your integrity and work ethic is commendable✨
@@ladawnemalone2955 thank you 🙏🏼 I know it delays your project but it’s the best option to inspect your framing. And you can always contact me if you have more questions
If I only have 1/2 plywood subfloor, can I add a 1/4 of subfloor over top instead of ripping up what is there?
Yes, but you need liquid nails and screw the two boards together after.
No, because if you use 1/4” plywood then DITRA, the thin-set will delaminate the 1/4” plywood. Your DITRA will in turn not bond properly and the tile will fail. What kind of tile will you be using on the floor?
@@HomeRepairTutor I'm not sure yet - recommendations?
@@nismo613 I like porcelain tile because it’s strong and doesn’t require double plywood like stone. Tiles with straight lines are easier to maintain than mosaics. So I’m partial to squares or rectangles
@@HomeRepairTutor Technically yes, but if your are using Ditra, no. The person didn't specify in there question about the use of Ditra, so technically you can bond another piece of plywood to another this way. Not debating the use of Ditra in this case.
Thanks for mentioning that your going to be sore the next day. Working in small spaces on your knees will WEAR YOUR ASS OUT. you do great work brother.
You keep saying plywood, is osb subfloor good to use also?
@@ericc8895 yes
I from Sweden and there its a big no no to have hole in the floor for water, like there is in this case för the water to the toilet. Thats för the increased risk för water leakage. Pipes need to come from the walls or roof.
That is interesting.
Please forgive me if this question is insulting. That is the drain for the toilet. In Sweden, the drain would go out into a pipe in the wall? Is that what you mean? And what about the shower drains...or floor drains?
Ditra is peel and stick now, no need to use thin-set.
That’s only available for DITRA-HEAT mats, not DITRA yet. I’ve installed both and am excited to see if the DITRA will be available with the pressure sensitive adhesive. I’ll be making a video about the DITRA-HEAT-PS 🙌🏼🔥
Do I want to do this kind of work? HELL NO! IT'S TOO DIFFICULT AND PAINSTAKING. Thank you for reinforcing that.
lol I knew someone would comment on that little rant about HGTV. I’d say don’t get me started but too late lol. Not all projects are terrible. But TV shows are problematic in that they train homeowners to think it won’t take them long or that contractors are overcharging, either way it’s bad. So ya, I’m not a fan of produced HGTV shows
@@HomeRepairTutor Yup, all the home reno shows here in Australia are the same. They are helping to feed the big hardware stores numbnuts who falsely believe that full bathroom reno is dead easy. . . "as seen on tv" Those programs mostly get their hardware stuff for free so its a mutual back scratching exercise.
You missed showing the entire part of making the new frame attaching to the joists . Thank you though.
👍
The way your prepped that floor, you should marry my sister. She needs someone like you
You never use tiles that big on a bathroom floor. It’s a huge mistake. You can’t pitch it right and they are prone crack. Make a pro look like a helper
This is outside the shower over 16” on-center joists with a double layer of 3/4” plywood. These tiles, when set properly over DITRA will not crack. There’s more than 95% thin-set coverage and the Tile Council only requires 80% - so this installation exceeds the industry standards
A legitimate offering.
Very clearly and skillfully dealt with, my brother👍
Thanks for the tips, eh?😁🫡❤️🇨🇦🍻