I'm glad you did this vid. It's been common for Nissan, Hyundai, and Kia to bury the caliper bolts, and even saddle bolts, behind their multi-link rear suspension for several yrs. Alot of DIY guys take a whole pile of stuff apart, when a bit of strategy is all it takes.
You always pay great attention to the small details, we all know that it will work perfect after you have repaired it. And a great tutorial for the average joe too :-D.
Thanks for the videos. I always go to them when working on my vehicles. Keep us updated on parts and the ones hard to find. I am from mansfield ohio and know the weather conditions make cars hard to work on. I differently appreciate the electircal problems you diagnose. Makes me realize i can do this work my self. When i should let a professional like you work with it.!
There's this guy on UA-cam that normally uses a sand blaster to clean up his calipers. I forget his name but he's the one that used to talk about Banshees all the time.
What a nice town..... omg I just can’t with the rust on those cars.... being a car guy from Southern California, I would never be able to live in a state where the cars are eaten alive and done with in a decade or so. Love the videos Eric!
My brother and I did this job on his 2011 Murano. The stupid fastener placement was definitely worthy of some expletive spewing. Great job as always. Greetings from not quite as rusty Pittsburgh!
I so thankful that we dont have as much trouble with rust whereI live. We do have to be careful buying used vehicles here that come from Michigan and other northern states.
I love the Ceramic Extreem noe that I've been introduced by Dr O! I buy the orange because you can get that in small tubes vs the big bottle that I would never use in my lifetime. Thanks Eric!
Living in the driest State of the driest continent (apparently) at least has one advantage...I still have the original factory rotors on my 1997 Honda Prelude. Really. That's South Australia btw
kdmq Except I live in a hilly area and I drive it like I stole it, but it doesn't go out much these days. However in the past it did a lot of interstate travel, plus I always chose pads that didn't wear rotors that much. I like how on the rotor hats it's stamped Honda 97 :-)
InsideOfMyOwnMind I have a 1989 Daihatsu Feroza (Rocky) with the originals too, but they are now below minimum spec and due for replacement next time. Been putting that job off as long as possible because the wheel bearings and 4wd hubs have to come off and get replaced because the rotor is bolted to the back
jhitt79 Eric was specifically talking about not having rust due to salt used on roads, no need here, but yes they'll wear from use but it depends on the pads you use and how much highway driving you've done. I did lots.
Altima is the same way. Never pull control arm. Take the bracket off with the caliper. Assemble the pads on the bracket after collapsing the caliper. You can remove rotor while it's all out if the way
That's interesting to see a window put into the rotor to get at the parking brake adjustment screw. With the loss of metal from drilling out that hole, the rotor would have a mass imbalance, so I wonder if they put a compensating weight on the inside to rebalance the rotor. Or, maybe with rotors being so light and thin these days, it isn't significant....
I've come to really dislike Nissans, but that looked fairly straightforward ... aside from all the room they give you to remove the caliper pins, lol. Reminds me of a Ford Expedition front end component (can't recall if it was the upper or lower control arm) - they could've put the bolt in from the opposite direction, so that it could be removed ... but NOoooooo ... they had to install it in the direction of the frame! Just like that car you did where you had to drop the whole cradle to extract a couple bolts. Never been so mad in my life on that job. Ford engineer's ears were ringing that day! Never saw the red stuff before. I've been using the purple stuff for close to 10 years. Works great. I'm one of those people that isn't big on changing things. I still eat 4 scrambled eggs for breakfast, as I have for over 30 years now ... and I get the same meals - every time - at McD's, BK, and Subway whenever I go to those places. Probably why I get so mad at auto engineers - they change things 3x a model year! 😁 Trying to catch up on my UA-cam vids - just not enough hours in a day. Still trying to get caught up work wise. Fixed a Stihl FS80, a Husqvarna, and Poulan (chin-saw) saw, a Kubota TG1860, a J/D LX172, a Polaris 90 ATV, cooling fan in a PT Cruiser (which later melted down for unknown reasons after it puked all it's coolant out - towed that toilet here today with a blown head gasket ... and got to lay down in a nice, warm parking lot puddle full of tobacco spit and some kind of pee, to hook up my winch to the rear axle ... and got to make TWO trips, since I forgot the keys the first time ...🤬 ), mounted & balanced a front tire for a Yamaha Roadstar 1700, and fixed and delivered another J/D, an old White, and a fancy Simplicity Prestige 4x4. It's lawn season!! Haven't even started my RD350 since October! Blaspheme!! I still have to do a strut overhaul, rear shocks, and redo a modification I made to the OD solenoid in the tranny in the Volvo. Solenoid fails and kicks you into 3rd gear while you're doing 80 on the highway - great design there. I fixed that by cutting a slot from one port to another in the solenoid ... but I guess it wasn't big enough. Works great when warm ... but when cold, it won't hit OD until you hit 4,500 rpm. The Dremel cookie wasn't thick enough I figure - another pass next to it should do it. 👍 That solenoid's only job is to allow manual shifting (by button) from OD to 3rd (same thing mashing the pedal to the floor will do). Saw no use for that, so was easier & cheaper than replacing the failed solenoid. Somewhere, some place, there was someone who lubed up their pads and rotors, and then attempted to sue Permatex! I'd bet on that! They probably lived in MA, too ... 🤣
Would love to see more brake line bending/flaring video's. Or brake bleeding with and without abs if the procedure is different? Don't get me wrong, I like watching brake jobs, would like to see/hear other things. I learn something every time.
I just put acdelco brake pads and rotors on my Chrysler 300c and I tried out that ceramic grease. It's been 2 weeks and it's dead silent. Never used it before but seems to be fine. And did I miss it or did you skip showing the caliper bracket being tightened back on? Don't want to have a caliper flip on the freeway!
Hi Eric, the rubber plug hole is near 6 O'clock position at 2:50, and at 4:05 the brake shoes adjuster is 12 O'clock position. So how do I align the hole and adjuster at a same position?
Is there a risk of damaging the master cylinder by pushing the piston back in? I’ve been doing it this way for years. Other you tubers say to use the bleeder method. Thanks for all the great videos.
Before tightening to factory specs were you tempted to put Loctite on the caliper bracket bolts? They seemed to have been coated with something when you removed them. Also, just to upstage the Buick, my 11 year old Jeep GC diesel (180,000 km or about 108,000 miles) still has the original battery, brakes, shocks and struts which are still all good. More vehicles like this could put mechanics out of business. So far it has only needed a serpentine belt and tires but it has a few rust blisters on the fenders as we use a lot of road salt in Canada too. I enjoy your channel, good camera work, great commentary and lots of nice tools. I don't have as many wrenches, but what I do have gets used because I also have a 2004 Dakota with 140,000 on which everything needs to be replaced again.
I must be honest. I painted my brake pads with brake grease and I ended up warping my rotors. rookie mistake. so when you gave the disclaimer I looked around embarrassingly.
what is the purpose of the black tip on one of the caliper pins and not the other? 2) what sort of drag do you want to start with on the rotor/pad? just to the point where it is touching and no more?
I thought you were going to say that the warning was one of those, " this product is known to cause cancer in the state of California". Whenever I see that I say to myself, "Well thank god I don't live in California!"
The Purple uses a synthetic grease as a base while the Orange uses silicone. Functionally the silicone may hold a slight edge in terms of chemical resistance and it does meet the newer standards.
My 06 Tundra still has the original battery. Im trying to find out how long I can stretch it before it bites the dust. Only had 60,000 miles when I bought it. Now it has a little over 100k. At least I think it's original. It still says Toyota on it. I doubt that the previous owner went to Toyota to buy a battery, but who knows.
@erico love your channel brother. I honestly watch every single day after work. But these consistent brake jobs are killing me. I'm all for them but maybe you should do one with modern day electronic rear brakes like on a audi or Mercedes. I'm still going to watch all the other brake jobs even though I've done 1000's of them myself just for the commentary lol but it would be great to see how you deal with the electric brake systems. Power probe or Scan tool ect.
Nothing worse than sticking your rubber plug in too far! 😅 Eric I generally if I can't get access I'll try 'jacking' up the corner to compress the suspension. This will sometimes (not always) give you clearance for bolt removal! Loved the tunes at the end! 😅
A question from one tech to another: For the caliper slider pins that have the rubber bushing on the tip, is there a general rule of thumb as to where the location (top or bottom) is supposed to be? Is it different for every vehicle? Is the rule of thumb that the "leading" pin (pin which would receive the friction of compressing first as the vehicle brakes from driving down the road in the forward direction of travel) supposed to be the location of the pin with the rubber bushing?Just wondering as it seems like some vehicles have the pin with the rubber bushing on the top and some have it on the bottom, however some vehicles also have the brake calipers facing the front of the vehicle while others have them facing the rear. ThanksChris from Ontario Canada
Why is it when you say the name Nissan you say it in a manner as if you hate or dislike the brand so much. My Nissan will be the next million mile vehicle. On a positive note I do admire your quality of work, and attention to details.
*Lisle 24300 Speedy Brake Pad Spreader: amzn.to/2IpWiuK
*3M 07547 Scotch-Brite Roloc Brake Hub Cleaning Disc Kit: amzn.to/2IiLhPz
*Astro Pneumatic Tool 40SLMAX Astro 450 Lumen Rechargeable LED Slim Light with XL Battery: amzn.to/2rLowJi
*Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 fl. oz.: amzn.to/2rRkRtx
*Nissan Murano Chilton Repair Manual (2003-2010): amzn.to/2k1DgAj
The SMA Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
why Roger
GO AWAY
South Main Auto Repair LLC how come you put lube on the backside of the hardware but not on the frontside where the pads ride?
I swear Eric, if you put up one more freakin' brake job video.........I am going to watch it as well.
Of the hundreds of brake videos out there you and jimthecarguy have the most detailed and enjoyable to watch.
always a good day when there is a new SMA video to start it off
Filming and still gets hardware clipped in before Rodger completely spins down. What a legend.
I'm glad you did this vid. It's been common for Nissan, Hyundai, and Kia to bury the caliper bolts, and even saddle bolts, behind their multi-link rear suspension for several yrs. Alot of DIY guys take a whole pile of stuff apart, when a bit of strategy is all it takes.
You always pay great attention to the small details, we all know that it will work perfect after you have repaired it.
And a great tutorial for the average joe too :-D.
I had my brake cleaner in my hand, just waiting for the moment you brought yours out but that moment never came..............crying big tears.
Dr O working the rubber boot so delicately.
Thank you for inviting us into your shop.
Thanks for the videos. I always go to them when working on my vehicles. Keep us updated on parts and the ones hard to find. I am from mansfield ohio and know the weather conditions make cars hard to work on. I differently appreciate the electircal problems you diagnose. Makes me realize i can do this work my self. When i should let a professional like you work with it.!
There's this guy on UA-cam that normally uses a sand blaster to clean up his calipers. I forget his name but he's the one that used to talk about Banshees all the time.
FrugalPrepper's Garage & Garden had a show on Wednesdays. Seemed like an a'ight dude. Earthquake fan.
Didnt he use purple grease too?
This red stuff burns my bisquits
What a nice town..... omg I just can’t with the rust on those cars.... being a car guy from Southern California, I would never be able to live in a state where the cars are eaten alive and done with in a decade or so. Love the videos Eric!
The theatrical effort receives a thumbs up.👍🏻
My brother and I did this job on his 2011 Murano. The stupid fastener placement was definitely worthy of some expletive spewing. Great job as always. Greetings from not quite as rusty Pittsburgh!
I so thankful that we dont have as much trouble with rust whereI live. We do have to be careful buying used vehicles here that come from Michigan and other northern states.
Thoroughly enjoyable video! Great job and great commentary. Will be doing this on my wife’s Murano this week
Your Grandma was a wise lady.
I love starting out my day with an SMA brake job!
Man I hope the folks in your town realize how lucky they are to have an independent shop with your skill set.
I love the Ceramic Extreem noe that I've been introduced by Dr O! I buy the orange because you can get that in small tubes vs the big bottle that I would never use in my lifetime. Thanks Eric!
Very thorough instructions I thought this video was great. Thanks now I’ll have to try it on mine. Gabe
Living in the driest State of the driest continent (apparently) at least has one advantage...I still have the original factory rotors on my 1997 Honda Prelude. Really.
That's South Australia btw
S.K. Wirrel I still have the original rotors on my 1988 Isuzu Impulse in The Peoples Republic of Kalifornia.
kdmq Except I live in a hilly area and I drive it like I stole it, but it doesn't go out much these days. However in the past it did a lot of interstate travel, plus I always chose pads that didn't wear rotors that much. I like how on the rotor hats it's stamped Honda 97 :-)
InsideOfMyOwnMind I have a 1989 Daihatsu Feroza (Rocky) with the originals too, but they are now below minimum spec and due for replacement next time. Been putting that job off as long as possible because the wheel bearings and 4wd hubs have to come off and get replaced because the rotor is bolted to the back
S.K. Wirrel how would living in a dry climate affect your rotors? Wouldn't they still wear from use?
jhitt79 Eric was specifically talking about not having rust due to salt used on roads, no need here, but yes they'll wear from use but it depends on the pads you use and how much highway driving you've done. I did lots.
I have a Murano and you can get the lower caliper bolt if you jack up the rear tire a bit to clear the control arm
You torque stuff to factory specs like I do, by feel. I've never had anything fall off my brakes.
Excellent video.
i wish i had your patience your work is outstanding
Car's got a bangin stereo system, handles great and accelerates like no other. (according to the video)
By jacking up the rear suspension from the bottom, you will then have clearance from lower control arm to remove lower pin to grease it.
Everyone loves a good brake job vid!!
The 11 year old Buick with 14,000 miles battery change would of been awesome bonus footage! Lol. Bet it was the 3800 V6? Love it!
You must have played in the band. Great cadence on the horn toot backing out.
Altima is the same way. Never pull control arm. Take the bracket off with the caliper. Assemble the pads on the bracket after collapsing the caliper. You can remove rotor while it's all out if the way
I just did a brake job The SMA way.. sweet.. Thanks Eric
I love watching your brake and rotor videos keep on making them!!
Nice little test drive at the end, didn't notice many local shops 👍
Great video and nice blues interlude.
Another great job Eric O , look forward to the next video.
That's interesting to see a window put into the rotor to get at the parking brake adjustment screw. With the loss of metal from drilling out that hole, the rotor would have a mass imbalance, so I wonder if they put a compensating weight on the inside to rebalance the rotor. Or, maybe with rotors being so light and thin these days, it isn't significant....
Autozone ad on Dr. Os. Channel my heart goes out to the SMA family. But other than that Another great video as usual and keep them coming.
I've come to really dislike Nissans, but that looked fairly straightforward ... aside from all the room they give you to remove the caliper pins, lol. Reminds me of a Ford Expedition front end component (can't recall if it was the upper or lower control arm) - they could've put the bolt in from the opposite direction, so that it could be removed ... but NOoooooo ... they had to install it in the direction of the frame! Just like that car you did where you had to drop the whole cradle to extract a couple bolts. Never been so mad in my life on that job. Ford engineer's ears were ringing that day!
Never saw the red stuff before. I've been using the purple stuff for close to 10 years. Works great. I'm one of those people that isn't big on changing things. I still eat 4 scrambled eggs for breakfast, as I have for over 30 years now ... and I get the same meals - every time - at McD's, BK, and Subway whenever I go to those places. Probably why I get so mad at auto engineers - they change things 3x a model year! 😁
Trying to catch up on my UA-cam vids - just not enough hours in a day. Still trying to get caught up work wise. Fixed a Stihl FS80, a Husqvarna, and Poulan (chin-saw) saw, a Kubota TG1860, a J/D LX172, a Polaris 90 ATV, cooling fan in a PT Cruiser (which later melted down for unknown reasons after it puked all it's coolant out - towed that toilet here today with a blown head gasket ... and got to lay down in a nice, warm parking lot puddle full of tobacco spit and some kind of pee, to hook up my winch to the rear axle ... and got to make TWO trips, since I forgot the keys the first time ...🤬 ), mounted & balanced a front tire for a Yamaha Roadstar 1700, and fixed and delivered another J/D, an old White, and a fancy Simplicity Prestige 4x4. It's lawn season!! Haven't even started my RD350 since October! Blaspheme!! I still have to do a strut overhaul, rear shocks, and redo a modification I made to the OD solenoid in the tranny in the Volvo. Solenoid fails and kicks you into 3rd gear while you're doing 80 on the highway - great design there. I fixed that by cutting a slot from one port to another in the solenoid ... but I guess it wasn't big enough. Works great when warm ... but when cold, it won't hit OD until you hit 4,500 rpm. The Dremel cookie wasn't thick enough I figure - another pass next to it should do it. 👍 That solenoid's only job is to allow manual shifting (by button) from OD to 3rd (same thing mashing the pedal to the floor will do). Saw no use for that, so was easier & cheaper than replacing the failed solenoid.
Somewhere, some place, there was someone who lubed up their pads and rotors, and then attempted to sue Permatex! I'd bet on that! They probably lived in MA, too ... 🤣
Would love to see more brake line bending/flaring video's. Or brake bleeding with and without abs if the procedure is different? Don't get me wrong, I like watching brake jobs, would like to see/hear other things. I learn something every time.
Excellent Video as always Mr SMA
Thanks for the burping tip in the past I didn't know but used it on my recent subaru rear brake job!
I don't know why, but that new caliper lube looked tasty.
Like the filling from a doughnut.
Halloween cupcake frosting
I just put acdelco brake pads and rotors on my Chrysler 300c and I tried out that ceramic grease. It's been 2 weeks and it's dead silent. Never used it before but seems to be fine. And did I miss it or did you skip showing the caliper bracket being tightened back on? Don't want to have a caliper flip on the freeway!
Murano's look simple. Famous last words!
I may be weird but I enjoy doing brakes and suspension rebuilds, they're oddly satisfying...
I don't enjoy doing exhaust systems...
"Don't follow this video for instructions" had me 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I think there were a few "California stops" on that test drive there Mr. O. ;) Great video as usual!!
Nice job Eric
I LIVE IN HEAVEN!!!! But I come from about 40 miles North of you and don't miss rust and slush one damn bit!!
Hi Eric, the rubber plug hole is near 6 O'clock position at 2:50, and at 4:05 the brake shoes adjuster is 12 O'clock position. So how do I align the hole and adjuster at a same position?
"DO NOT APPLY TO THE BREAKING SURFACE OF THE PADS", however, works good for your lips ;) Gr8 video as always!
Surprising how little rust there is on this thing compared to the Chevy's, Ford's and Dodge's that come to SMA
Eric, you edited out repositioning the rotor so the adjuster lined up... ;-)
Eric, i am coming up on 8 years on an ac delco battery. Going to try to get as long as i can out of it. Lol
Is there a risk of damaging the master cylinder by pushing the piston back in? I’ve been doing it this way for years. Other you tubers say to use the bleeder method. Thanks for all the great videos.
I always grease the hub also to prevent the rotor from sticking next time.
Before tightening to factory specs were you tempted to put Loctite on the caliper bracket bolts? They seemed to have been coated with something when you removed them. Also, just to upstage the Buick, my 11 year old Jeep GC diesel (180,000 km or about 108,000 miles) still has the original battery, brakes, shocks and struts which are still all good. More vehicles like this could put mechanics out of business. So far it has only needed a serpentine belt and tires but it has a few rust blisters on the fenders as we use a lot of road salt in Canada too. I enjoy your channel, good camera work, great commentary and lots of nice tools. I don't have as many wrenches, but what I do have gets used because I also have a 2004 Dakota with 140,000 on which everything needs to be replaced again.
I must be honest. I painted my brake pads with brake grease and I ended up warping my rotors. rookie mistake.
so when you gave the disclaimer I looked around embarrassingly.
So many stopsigns! Greets from sunny Amsterdam.
A job well done as usual. I'd think being the premier auto guy in town you'd have automatic overhead doors. ;-)
Had a mechanic I go to tell me I needed inner and outer tie rods on both sides to fix the shaking so I took it to another all I needed were new tires
what is the purpose of the black tip on one of the caliper pins and not the other?
2) what sort of drag do you want to start with on the rotor/pad? just to the point where it is touching and no more?
Such a beautiful place you are at in new york
Do you have a standard loop around town that you take vehicles on for a test drive after every job? I'd like to know what your neighbors think of SMA?
I thought you were going to say that the warning was one of those, " this product is known to cause cancer in the state of California". Whenever I see that I say to myself, "Well thank god I don't live in California!"
Yeah, there seems to be a lot of cancer in California...
Vladimir Putin Hey STFU. Lol That's where I am. The biggest problem we have is retardation in the capital building.
wish i lived across the street from SMA . wouldn't need to wait for the rustyrado to get its weekly fix.
Nice work Mr.O. Just curious, is there any real difference between the purple and red brake grease?
The Purple uses a synthetic grease as a base while the Orange uses silicone. Functionally the silicone may hold a slight edge in terms of chemical resistance and it does meet the newer standards.
Ah I see. Thank you for the explanation.
the taste
Really cool and informative video buddy, and a great brake job.
Thanks and keep on wrenching 👍
The one caliper pin had a black tip, where does the black tip go? On the top or bottom and what does it do?? Why different??
Shiny new parts are better than rusty old ones 👍
My 06 Tundra still has the original battery. Im trying to find out how long I can stretch it before it bites the dust. Only had 60,000 miles when I bought it. Now it has a little over 100k. At least I think it's original. It still says Toyota on it. I doubt that the previous owner went to Toyota to buy a battery, but who knows.
you should do a video of what happens when you forget to pump up the brakes, add some excitement to the channel :))
The Flat Rate Master performed the test drive.
@erico love your channel brother. I honestly watch every single day after work. But these consistent brake jobs are killing me. I'm all for them but maybe you should do one with modern day electronic rear brakes like on a audi or Mercedes. I'm still going to watch all the other brake jobs even though I've done 1000's of them myself just for the commentary lol but it would be great to see how you deal with the electric brake systems. Power probe or Scan tool ect.
@southmainautorepair
Nothing worse than sticking your rubber plug in too far! 😅
Eric I generally if I can't get access I'll try 'jacking' up the corner to compress the suspension. This will sometimes (not always) give you clearance for bolt removal!
Loved the tunes at the end! 😅
My Riviera battery is a 10 year battery. I think it has 7 years on it. Last one cost 138 dollars I believe.
I would think that since it rides under the rear seat, it doesn't see the heat and vibration of an under hood unit.
Sma on hump day hallelujah!
That red Tahoe is still hanging out.
Thanks for the video. Do you crack the Master Cylinder so you are able to push the piston back?
You mentioned that if I get grease on the rotors, I should clean them off. What product should I use to remove the grease? 😁😁😁
A question from one tech to another: For the caliper slider pins that have the rubber bushing on the tip, is there a general rule of thumb as to where the location (top or bottom) is supposed to be? Is it different for every vehicle? Is the rule of thumb that the "leading" pin (pin which would receive the friction of compressing first as the vehicle brakes from driving down the road in the forward direction of travel) supposed to be the location of the pin with the rubber bushing?Just wondering as it seems like some vehicles have the pin with the rubber bushing on the top and some have it on the bottom, however some vehicles also have the brake calipers facing the front of the vehicle while others have them facing the rear. ThanksChris from Ontario Canada
At 11:08 "Meow" 😂😂 Super Troopers fan right there.
You file just fine. I would use a wire brush to clean the file.
Question: Why does the squeaker go on the inside?
Thanks for the video. I'm doing my wifes car in the morning 01/23/2024.
11 years on a battery? Here in the Mohave desert I feel lucky to get 3 years out of one. The 115* summers really suck the life out of them.
What the hell?? no brake cleaner blast Eric..but the test drive music did help.
If that whole doesn’t match up can it mess up thr brakes?
Thanks Eric.
“Amish style” brilliant!
I’ve got a question about the master cylinder
Is it hot out? Grease looks runny! Lol thanks again!
I feel like this brake job is missing something...it feels dirty?
Great video! Thank you.
God bless
Paul
Why is it when you say the name Nissan you say it in a manner as if you hate or dislike the brand so much. My Nissan will be the next million mile vehicle.
On a positive note I do admire your quality of work, and attention to details.
lol I here less disdain then whenever he mentions a "Hondoo" in the shop lol!
Hey there viewers and welcome back to the South Main Brake Repair channel. Haha just teasing.
My son is looking at one with low miles any thoughts?
Nice boogie tunes on the ride