Great video. Just did this today, but I took a shortcut and purchased a complete hub that came with bearings installed (MOOG). Make sure you have a 12 point 30mm socket with 1/2 drive handy to take off the axle nut. A 6 sided one won't work.
This is the best way for the average guy to do the repair. No press needed. Just remove and replace the entire spindle/knuckle assembly. Cost is a bit more but labor and frustration is less. Only downside is you may need to get an alignment after the repair. Why? Because the new knuckle could be a few mm off in the tie rod attachment area.
Overall nice work. I personally always use a torque wrench when it comes to bearings and hubs. And when I change one side I always do the other too because it's just a matter of time before that one goes. In my opinion when one goes they have reached the end of their life
Thanks to the uploader for giving me the confidence to do this job myself. I had the misfortune of seized axles but I was able to push them out by hammering with the 30mm 12 pt nut 1/4 undone of the end of the threads to prevent the tip from mushrooming. It destroys the nut in the process but I was changing the entire knuckle which comes with a replacement 30mm (it was just easier in my situation). Didnt have access to a slide hammer otherwise I wouldve just used that
thank you Sir for this video..I have the same problem with my car (toyota corolla), noisy front wheel bearing (pax side) when running..I hope I can fix it, with your video as my guide..big big thanks Kabayan.. avid fan here from Northern Samar, Philippines..
List of tools needed (minus everything bearing related) Impact wrench driver 30 mm socket has to have 12 points (non-hex) 22mm socket and 22mm back up wrench 21 mm 19mm impact swivel socket 17 mm impact swivel socket 15 mm socket 10mm wrench for ones with wheel sensor Needle nose pliers for Cotter pin, I had to drill and punch mine out from rust. On one of the nuts I had to use a propane torch to heat it up because the rust was so strong A few different hammers helped.
thanks for the video. Let's me know what the mechanic will encounter on my car. Appreciate the volume of work to be done and I know at this time I won't be a DIY!.
i am doing a bearing this week i thought if you turn left then the bearing on the right makes noise if its bad , i am also going to use heat to remove the part thats known to stay on the hub . i am also going to put the new bearing in the freezer the night before . it makes it easier to install . thank you for the video
Thanks for the video. I did it exactly how the video instructed me too. Except somehow it took 8 hours ! Lol. Nothing went as smoothly as it did in the video and at one point I thought I destroyed the new bearings. But I got it done and my car is fixed. Hopefully the wheel doesn't fall off on my road trip. Haha.
Great job everything is practic and learn by mistake. I believe that your next bearing is piece a cake. I done many bearing job I still learning as well.
I think you are the first to show pressing in the bearing! My only beef is that there is a nut or something next to the tie rod nut that doesnt seem to have a hex head and I didnt see you remove it 😕
very good video. safety tip it was scary seeing your hand under that press when under pressure like you did at 9:10 never know what can happen with parts under pressure!
I don’t have a press. Should I just buy a whole replacement knuckle that has brand new everything... around 220 from rock auto for both sides. Both are going bad and I like to learn how to do this kinda stuff
I have the same noise with my Toyota corolla 2017 when accelerating at 35 miles and up. And at the same time, it's making noise when you back up. Is it a bearing or Transmission? My car doesn't lose no power nor no engine lights on. Thank you All Tsab.
I forgot the Dewalt model but if you search in Google or eBay it should have in there. The 1/2 drive with 700 ft lbs its really great one. I recently bought a Milwaukee one to replace the Dewalt but I'm not very happy with the Milwaukee. It said more torque but didn't and didn't run as smooth as Dewalt one. My opinion i recommend you the Dewalt brand.
Why not just replace the entire wheel hub assembly so you don’t have to cut the bearing out and press in a new one! They sell the complete wheel hub assembly
Whilst you would think the alignment would still hold in theory, in practice it doesn't . The reason is is the two bolts going through the suspension leg and hub casting are a very sloppy fit and unless you are lucky the alignment will be off for sure.
lol tell me you don't live in the rust belt without telling me you don't live in the rust belt. snap rings and knuckles and bolts just falling off the car like butter.
I have work on some car came from the north region scared to touch it just fall off like you said. I don't know how those people work on car like that everyday. I probably will have nightmare every night. 😆 🤣 😂 😹
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is one of the best instructional videos on wheel bearings on youtube!
Thanks
You did a great job explaining the process of replacing wheel bearings
Yes he did thanks so much bolt on bearings are cake im still practicing my press in methods
Great video. Just did this today, but I took a shortcut and purchased a complete hub that came with bearings installed (MOOG). Make sure you have a 12 point 30mm socket with 1/2 drive handy to take off the axle nut. A 6 sided one won't work.
Does that mean you totally skip the step of having to press the bearings in ?
@@t1mech1ldtc60 yes
Did you replace the bearing race on the hub?
No, the hub came with the bearing pre-installed. Super easy.@@505fastlife6
This is the best way for the average guy to do the repair.
No press needed.
Just remove and replace the entire spindle/knuckle assembly.
Cost is a bit more but labor and frustration is less.
Only downside is you may need to get an alignment after the repair.
Why? Because the new knuckle could be a few mm off in the tie rod attachment area.
Overall nice work. I personally always use a torque wrench when it comes to bearings and hubs. And when I change one side I always do the other too because it's just a matter of time before that one goes. In my opinion when one goes they have reached the end of their life
Thanks to the uploader for giving me the confidence to do this job myself.
I had the misfortune of seized axles but I was able to push them out by hammering with the 30mm 12 pt nut 1/4 undone of the end of the threads to prevent the tip from mushrooming. It destroys the nut in the process but I was changing the entire knuckle which comes with a replacement 30mm (it was just easier in my situation). Didnt have access to a slide hammer otherwise I wouldve just used that
Good job buddy
Great job explaining how it was done.
Great video! The views were excellent and the instructions! Best one I've seen by far!
😊 thanks
thank you Sir for this video..I have the same problem with my car (toyota corolla), noisy front wheel bearing (pax side) when running..I hope I can fix it, with your video as my guide..big big thanks Kabayan..
avid fan here from Northern Samar, Philippines..
Thank you for watching don't forget to subscribe ok
List of tools needed (minus everything bearing related)
Impact wrench driver
30 mm socket has to have 12 points (non-hex)
22mm socket and 22mm back up wrench
21 mm
19mm impact swivel socket
17 mm impact swivel socket
15 mm socket
10mm wrench for ones with wheel sensor
Needle nose pliers for Cotter pin, I had to drill and punch mine out from rust.
On one of the nuts I had to use a propane torch to heat it up because the rust was so strong
A few different hammers helped.
thanks for the video. Let's me know what the mechanic will encounter on my car. Appreciate the volume of work to be done and I know at this time I won't be a DIY!.
Great video. I had the same noise from drivers side front. Not a diy job that I could do. My Corolla is a 2013 with about 75k miles .
I've got a 2013 with 250K miles on it.
this man the best video i have seen so far
i am doing a bearing this week i thought if you turn left then the bearing on the right makes noise if its bad , i am also going to use heat to remove the part thats known to stay on the hub . i am also going to put the new bearing in the freezer the night before . it makes it easier to install . thank you for the video
you're right - he said it backwards
At 307,578 miles I’m going to change both wheel bearings on my 2005 Toyota Corolla
Just to be on the safe side
Thanks for the video. I did it exactly how the video instructed me too. Except somehow it took 8 hours ! Lol. Nothing went as smoothly as it did in the video and at one point I thought I destroyed the new bearings. But I got it done and my car is fixed. Hopefully the wheel doesn't fall off on my road trip. Haha.
Great job everything is practic and learn by mistake. I believe that your next bearing is piece a cake. I done many bearing job I still learning as well.
Thanks for the video, very helpful. You do need to replace both bearings at the same time as you would do it on your brakes, rotors etc...
No you only do as need it Because bearing costly and sometimes it doesn't fail at the same time that is my opinion.
This is a really great instructional video!!! Thank you !!!
You welcome
for those who dont have a press would it just be easier to purchase a wheel hub/bearing/knuckle assembly all put together
Good explanation and really fast, just wished I had a press at home like you have in your shop.
It cheap. You can buy one for under $200
I think you are the first to show pressing in the bearing! My only beef is that there is a nut or something next to the tie rod nut that doesnt seem to have a hex head and I didnt see you remove it 😕
You made this look so simple
Did this today, you're awesome!
Nice
Great video and step by step instructions, thanks!
You welcome buddy
Yes , good job.your video is pretty useful.
this tutorial saved me thank you🙏🏼
You welcome
Great video man thanks
most brilliant way!!!!
I learned a lot from you sir thanks a lot...
U welcome
Great video
Great car mechanic
Thanks
Extra garbage just information. Great job on instructing and presenting.
How many miles! I noticed that you replaced both sides!
Nice one, but you didn't tell us the brand name of the bearing you loaded.??
very good video. safety tip it was scary seeing your hand under that press when under pressure like you did at 9:10 never know what can happen with parts under pressure!
There is no pressure just catching the drop of bearing only
Great video 🤙
Excellent job,anyway, Thank you very much.I hope you about to change the CV axle of toyota corolla .
You welcome
25 Dollars. Just purchased the same bearing here in New Zealand from Toyota. $187.50 thanks.
Wow
That's the best price. One was $408!!
@@msnod3 wow
I don’t have a press. Should I just buy a whole replacement knuckle that has brand new everything... around 220 from rock auto for both sides. Both are going bad and I like to learn how to do this kinda stuff
Yeah that is not a bad idea
Keep up the work my hmong brother
You welcome
I have the same noise with my Toyota corolla 2017 when accelerating at 35 miles and up. And at the same time, it's making noise when you back up. Is it a bearing or Transmission? My car doesn't lose no power nor no engine lights on. Thank you All Tsab.
Do a slow turn like the video to see it make noise increasing. If sound doesn't change mean that is not the bearing.
My cv axle does not slip in as easily as yours does. I must be doing something wrong. Maybe I got the wrong hub bearing?
If rust sand the rust area. Some aftermarket part slightly bigger or smaller too
Thank you
thanks for the video and the explanation it really helped. what impcat wrench did you use?
Dewalt and Milwaukee
@@alltsab which kind
@@ynonser5804 the 700 ft lbs Dewalt and milwaukee one I think 800 ft lbs but I like Dewalt one better. It lighter and as powerful as milwaukee one.
I don't remember the model number but if you search it only one in Dewalt that has 700 ft lbs.
Waohh!! It was really fast! Can you tell me the type of DeWalt that you used? It seems work really nice!
I forgot the Dewalt model but if you search in Google or eBay it should have in there. The 1/2 drive with 700 ft lbs its really great one. I recently bought a Milwaukee one to replace the Dewalt but I'm not very happy with the Milwaukee. It said more torque but didn't and didn't run as smooth as Dewalt one. My opinion i recommend you the Dewalt brand.
@7:17 would a tie rod end puller work better without risk of scarring the hub? ( I have to repair one of these on '12 corolla)
Why not just replace the entire wheel hub assembly so you don’t have to cut the bearing out and press in a new one! They sell the complete wheel hub assembly
What socket size you are using to remove that nut from driveshaft?Thank's!
Don't remember but I think 30mm
Great good👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
is the press necessary to remove the bearing and intall? can you pound it out with a hammer and wood?
Yes but it will take for a long time
If you dont have a press, you can get a bearing press kit
What's the socket size for the 2 large bolts holding the hub assembly at the top?
I don't remember but i think either 19mm or 17mm socket.
@@alltsab 17mm
T think I'll just replace the whole knuckle with the new bearing and hub already installed..i don't have a grinder.
Good idea 💡
What happened to the ball bearings? I'm confused
Bad
does torqueing required on any of those bolts you install back?
Yes, every single one of these bolts should have a specific torque.
How much time is required for both wheels
2 hours
12:00 when pressing the hub in, is it going to stop where it wants to?
Yes
What is the part that you cut off with the machine??
I think that part call Bearing race
Please tell me what you hit with hammer and screw driver at 13:42?
That is to lock the axle nut to the axle shaft
Do you need to do an alignment afterwards?
Yes if off no if everything set as default and running straight then no. I never have alignment on my work it run perfectly.
Whilst you would think the alignment would still hold in theory, in practice it doesn't . The reason is is the two bolts going through the suspension leg and hub casting are a very sloppy fit and unless you are lucky the alignment will be off for sure.
Some people turn into hulk after completing this
When press the hub when do you stop
Your press down until it soft stop
Thanks.
U welcome
Jack up the wheel..start engine put it in 3rd gear..so now you can feel which one is bad by touch and feel the vibrate at the spring..
I like hammer way too.
what is the purpose of your hammer at 13:45?
Axle nut lock pin
@@alltsab what does that mean?
@@zekejones6976 He was staking the axle nut to the axle shaft to prevent loosening.
@13:38 torque to 217 lbs/ft
unfortunally i dont have the presser to do the job the rest i can do it
Take it to the machine shop they press for you
Where did you get the punch for knocking the old bearing out?
Harbor Freight but you can buy from Amazon or eBay
@@alltsab Ah ok, thanks for the quick reply. Is this part of a bearing race and driver set?
@@brinho109 yes
@@brinho109 please help subscribe to my channel ok I need your help
lol tell me you don't live in the rust belt without telling me you don't live in the rust belt. snap rings and knuckles and bolts just falling off the car like butter.
I have work on some car came from the north region scared to touch it just fall off like you said. I don't know how those people work on car like that everyday. I probably will have nightmare every night. 😆 🤣 😂 😹
Looks like you don't torque anything. Especially the axle nut. Very dangerous
Great video
Great video