(Important info) Absolutely great video! I used this as a reference to my Corolla and I also took the Hub to a mechanic and put an OEM bearing in. Which was a $90 dollar bearing. One thing I will note for viewers is that a lot of these vehicles are high mileage and second or third hand. So not all these bolts are guaranteed to be OEM. For instance, my axel nut was a 6 point and it was heavily staked. Make sure you unstake the axel nut before removing it! At the time, I unknowingly forced the staked axel nut off with an impact and it damaged the threads a little, but I was still able to thread on a new axel nut that was oem style. Note: this video does not show him staking the axel nut. Simply take a hammer and punch and stake it into the grove on the cv axel threading. If you’re still unsure a few other videos on UA-cam show this.
I am a visual learner so this type of video helps me take on tasks like these with confidence. Your video layout is perfect, I really appreciate that you took time to document how this job was done because it takes a lot work to make these videos. I just wanted to let you know this video made a huge difference for me in two ways: one, I was able to take on this job, learn something new and build my own mechanical confidence when it comes to working on the Corolla (vs. my other vehicles I have), two, I saved money on labor at a shop which is certainly nice (we are talking like $1000+ C.A.D, so I owe you a beer for sure just for that!). I really liked how you laid out what tools that were needed and what the torque specs were as well. I usually will take a inventory from my own tool box before I get started and if I do not have something I will go out and purchase the tool before I start so that I can just get into the job and keep going as opposed to stopping 1/2 way to get the tool (saving me time) ....long and the short you efforts are appreciated and I wanted to pass that on. THANK YOU!
Thanks for posting this well made video of this repair. After watching this I felt very comfortable tackling this job. It saved me hundreds of dollars. It was great having the torque measurements while you were putting it together. Good job and much appreciated.
Great lighting, clear explanations, fast forward on the tedium, and including tool sizes needed! My friend, a well deserved like! One of the best put-together videos I have ever seen!
thank you for making a straight forward video. it was quick, efficient, and useful! Will be going this route with replacing my wheel bearing. Also the music was a nice touch and made it more pleasent to watch.
Your video views with finger prompt + verbal instructions are very well done. Clarity and conciseness like this are not common on media platforms. I never write feedback so keep this level of quality up my friend...
This is the best tutorial that Ive found for doing this on a Corolla. Good camera views. You've included the nut and bolt sizes, as well as all of the torque specs. This information will make doing this job on my car much quicker. Thank you.
Bud yeah I only did one side. The person that asked me to replace it for them. Specified that they only wanted one side done for now. And also thanks! I’m glad it was helpful!
I am gonna tell you something..I watched a number of these instructional videos and this one is by far the best! Very well done...step by step the way it should be done. And you are correct about taking the knuckle assembly in to get the old bearing out. The other option and what I did was spent the extra money to just buy the complete knuckle assembly with the bearing already in it. It cost me around $ 200.00 but saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Question - is that sensor the ABS sensor?
It is indeed the ABS sensor and I, too, simply purchased a complete new knuckle assembly. R&R at that point. The car did however need an alignment afterwards. The overall cost is more but the wheel bearing pressing is eliminated.
Thanks for posting, Abe. This is a very helpful video. Your underside and fasteners look as if they are exposed to California elements? Minimal corrosion. The cotter pin is often severely corroded and likely need to be drilled out. Was the axel spindle nut easy to unstake? Wise to avoid the headache for 50$. The shop polished it to a mirror shine like new. I could use a local shop that offers such service for a reasonable fee. How long did it take from start to finish excluding the 1h wait? Any helpful tips/advice for safe jacking points?
That was pretty amazing. The video is very nicely made with covering every step in detail. Im having the same car with same problem. Im curious weather the bearing you used was abs or non abs. Two different repair guys are feeding me different information on abs and non abs bearings. I think the bearing itself is a normal one. Kindly guide. It would be really appreciable.
I can’t tell you weather it’s abs or non abs, but if I remember correctly this is the one I purchased “Duralast Bearing DL510070”. It has been a while since I’ve worked on that car so my memory is a little blurred. I hope that helps. Please double check that the information that I gave you would be correct for you application. Thanks!
How many mile that car just curious. I found Moog hub/ bearing / knkal assembly with 150 around Moog brand. If I go skp can done with 85. Pretty good deal I think. Bye ty for videos.
what kind of shop do you suggest. One mechanic around here seems to want to do the either job... is the shop you are referring to just a regular mechanic / garage? perhaps these questions are stupid, but I have never brought something to a shop like this, but it's a great idea! I have been agonizing about how I am going to get the old bearing out and a new one in.
Sorry for the late response! But I would say call around to any shop, and if they’re not willing to do it call onto the next one. In the video for example I called ahead of time to NAPA to see if they would do it, and they said they would so I knew I would be taking it there to get done quickly.
Any 17mm socket should be fine, I used a 17mm deep socket. And the axle nut does require a “special” socket, it is a size 30mm 12point socket, you can usually pick those up at auto parts stores. At some stores you can even rent the socket, just check with your local stores. I also recommend using a breaker bar, and maybe even a metal pipe to stick on the end of the breaker bar because you do need a bit of force to break the axle nut loose.
My wheel bearing is messed up. Toyota dealer is quoting me $580.00 to change 1 wheel bearing. They say the labor is 4 hours. It doesnt seem difficult from watchin the video. Did it take 4 hours to change this? Also, do you think $580.00 is too much? Im not sure what the fair price is. TIA
Anna Ricon I cannot confirm for sure that this would be relevant for a 2005, since the 2005 is a 9th generation and the 2009 is a 10th generation. And I have never changed one on a 2005. But I would imagine that the process would be similar for a 2005 but not exactly the same. Sorry I could not have been more helpful!
Quick question for you! When you bought your replacement bearing, did you get just the bearing itself? Or did you get the bearing, the retaining clip, and wheel hub?
Question. Did you have to have a 4 wheel alignment on your Corolla after replacing the bearing? I had the same work done on the same wheel and because they removed the knuckle the mechanic said it needs to be realigned.
Saturday, April 23, 2022 Abe, how much did it cost for the machine shop to remove the old bearing and press in a new bearing? My car is a 2004 Toyota Corolla with 119,000 miles. The passenger side, front bearing started making a slight grinding noise. This is probably from driving through 2 puddles after a huge rain storm. ☁️ 🌧️ ☁️ There were cars behind me, and I was worried about slowing down too fast. The driver behind me might not be paying attention and he could rear end my Corolla. At O'Reilly Auto Parts, the price for a new steering knuckle (which includes the hub and the bearing) is a whopping $420 plus tax! But I found a steering knuckle on Ebay for only $87.29 plus tax. There are only so many factories in the world that make steering knuckles for Toyota Corollas. Nearly everything is made in China these days. So I figure both of them were made in the same factory. If I buy a new steering knuckle, then I can skip the step of taking the old one to a machine shop. Plus then the whole thing is brand new. Thank you for your helpful video! 🙂 I admire the methodical way you work, and you are careful with details. A Happy April weekend to you and your family, Anthony. 🙂
Sorry for the late response, and this may no longer be helpful for you but maybe someone it can help someone down the road. All together buying the bearing separate and having a shop press in the new one it was about $200 give or take $50.
If I had the tools to properly press out and press in the new one I definitely would've tried to to show that! However I'm just a guy that likes to DIY and I wanted to show as much as I could do with the tools I have. It was more efficient and cost effective for me to have a shop press out/in a new bearing which is why I went this route.
@@abes8867 thanks man, didnt want to be rude, i know you did a very good job there, i just was expecting to see how to do the hard part, but congrats for you tutorial, is very helpful
Shane Wikfors the main symptom was when I took the car for a drive. I would hear a loud and noticeable grinding/rumbling noise from the front driver side wheel. And I was able to confirm that was the issue after inspecting the bearing/hub. And it completely went away after having it replaced. I hope that was helpful!
@@abes8867 Yes, very helpful! My problem is I hear a slight whirring sound that does not increase in volume with speed but frequency or pitch. It's more of whirring instead of a whining.
Shane Wikfors it sounds like a similar symptom to the wheel bearing. Are you able to tell if it’s coming from the front or rear of the car? Or maybe driver side or passenger side?
Shane Wikfors you might be able to rule out the bearing of you are able to get the car lifted. Take the wheel off and just spin the hub with your hand and see if you hear the same grinding noise like I showed in my video. Im not sure how well it will work out, but it might be worth a shot.
I had the same issue with the cotter pin, I tried breaking off the pin however with that the nut will spin with the ball joint. I had to put every thing back for now. Any advice?
David Houlden that’s a rough spot to be in. One thing you could try is taking a Jack with a wood block or something, on the saddle of the jack, and raise the jack under the balljoint. Put enough pressure on to the joint, enough to where it holds the stud/bolt (whatever you want to call it lol), and hopefully there’s enough friction/tension to hold the stud in place. Also would recommend some rust penetrant on it. Hopefully that helps!
I know I'm very late, but if you keep the spindle nut on the end of the axle to protect the threads, you can use a hammer. I always plan to replace that nut whenever I remove it, so I don't care about gouging the old one.
(Important info) Absolutely great video! I used this as a reference to my Corolla and I also took the Hub to a mechanic and put an OEM bearing in. Which was a $90 dollar bearing. One thing I will note for viewers is that a lot of these vehicles are high mileage and second or third hand. So not all these bolts are guaranteed to be OEM. For instance, my axel nut was a 6 point and it was heavily staked. Make sure you unstake the axel nut before removing it! At the time, I unknowingly forced the staked axel nut off with an impact and it damaged the threads a little, but I was still able to thread on a new axel nut that was oem style. Note: this video does not show him staking the axel nut. Simply take a hammer and punch and stake it into the grove on the cv axel threading. If you’re still unsure a few other videos on UA-cam show this.
I am a visual learner so this type of video helps me take on tasks like these with confidence. Your video layout is perfect, I really appreciate that you took time to document how this job was done because it takes a lot work to make these videos. I just wanted to let you know this video made a huge difference for me in two ways: one, I was able to take on this job, learn something new and build my own mechanical confidence when it comes to working on the Corolla (vs. my other vehicles I have), two, I saved money on labor at a shop which is certainly nice (we are talking like $1000+ C.A.D, so I owe you a beer for sure just for that!). I really liked how you laid out what tools that were needed and what the torque specs were as well. I usually will take a inventory from my own tool box before I get started and if I do not have something I will go out and purchase the tool before I start so that I can just get into the job and keep going as opposed to stopping 1/2 way to get the tool (saving me time) ....long and the short you efforts are appreciated and I wanted to pass that on. THANK YOU!
Thanks for the kind words! Glad to know I was able to help you out!
Thanks for posting this well made video of this repair. After watching this I felt very comfortable tackling this job. It saved me hundreds of dollars. It was great having the torque measurements while you were putting it together. Good job and much appreciated.
This guy did a great tutorial and a great video editing. He deserves more than 63 subscribers.
Yannick Dua thanks for the kind words!
@@abes8867 you have 70 now. Congrats. Keep it up.
Yannick Dua thanks for the support!
Great lighting, clear explanations, fast forward on the tedium, and including tool sizes needed!
My friend, a well deserved like! One of the best put-together videos I have ever seen!
thank you for making a straight forward video. it was quick, efficient, and useful! Will be going this route with replacing my wheel bearing. Also the music was a nice touch and made it more pleasent to watch.
Thanks for the kind words! Hope it’s helpful for when you work on yours!
Your video views with finger prompt + verbal instructions are very well done. Clarity and conciseness like this are not common on media platforms. I never write feedback so keep this level of quality up my friend...
video views or camera angels is what i mean
This is the best tutorial that Ive found for doing this on a Corolla. Good camera views. You've included the nut and bolt sizes, as well as all of the torque specs. This information will make doing this job on my car much quicker. Thank you.
You’re welcome! Glad this video can be helpful for you!
One of the best diy videos ever! Mahalo!
Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad it was helpful!
Did you just do one side? Thanks for making this real life vid.
Bud yeah I only did one side. The person that asked me to replace it for them. Specified that they only wanted one side done for now. And also thanks! I’m glad it was helpful!
I am doing mine this Friday 7/29/2022 2011 Corolla left front with the hole hub assemble and bearing as one unit
Great Video... More like taking out the knuckle than replacing the Actual Bearing.
Still great video... 👍
Thanks! I was just trying to show the process I took to change it, in hopes it could be useful for others. Again thanks for the kind words!
Great video. Helped me complete the job in an afternoon. Thanks!!
Awesome! I’m glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this video, excellent information.
Glad it was helpful!
I am gonna tell you something..I watched a number of these instructional videos and this one is by far the best! Very well done...step by step the way it should be done. And you are correct about taking the knuckle assembly in to get the old bearing out. The other option and what I did was spent the extra money to just buy the complete knuckle assembly with the bearing already in it. It cost me around $ 200.00 but saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Question - is that sensor the ABS sensor?
Thanks for the kind kind words! And I yes I believe it is the ABS sensor. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.
It is indeed the ABS sensor and I, too, simply purchased a complete new knuckle assembly. R&R at that point. The car did however need an alignment afterwards. The overall cost is more but the wheel bearing pressing is eliminated.
Absolutely awesome video great explanation Thanks
Thanks man, great vid! Thanks for including the socket sizes.
No problem! Glad it was helpful!
I just paid a shop to replace bearing on exactly the same car. I just wanted to know how much work it is. Thanks for the video.
No problem! Hopefully it helped give you some insight.
Excellent video man, thanks!
Very helpful!!
Great video production too!
Thank you! Much appreciated! Hope it was helpful!
New snap ring too. This is the exact same job on the 2009 Vibe and matrix
Thanks for posting, Abe. This is a very helpful video.
Your underside and fasteners look as if they are exposed to California elements? Minimal corrosion. The cotter pin is often severely corroded and likely need to be drilled out. Was the axel spindle nut easy to unstake?
Wise to avoid the headache for 50$. The shop polished it to a mirror shine like new. I could use a local shop that offers such service for a reasonable fee.
How long did it take from start to finish excluding the 1h wait? Any helpful tips/advice for safe jacking points?
That was pretty amazing. The video is very nicely made with covering every step in detail. Im having the same car with same problem. Im curious weather the bearing you used was abs or non abs. Two different repair guys are feeding me different information on abs and non abs bearings. I think the bearing itself is a normal one. Kindly guide. It would be really appreciable.
I can’t tell you weather it’s abs or non abs, but if I remember correctly this is the one I purchased “Duralast Bearing DL510070”. It has been a while since I’ve worked on that car so my memory is a little blurred. I hope that helps. Please double check that the information that I gave you would be correct for you application. Thanks!
Great video . The arm that attaches to strut was nor mentioned. Is there a torque spec. for that arm? Thanks.
Thank you for informative video. Big help
Would it be easier if disassemble wheel bearing hub instead of all wheel assembly ? Thanks
That editing🙌
Great video. Thanks.👍
That was pretty good
Thanks! I hope it was helpful!
It was!!
Nice video.
Torque spec info was a great idea.
Since it's typically a high mileage repair, I usually replace the lower ball joint while I'm in there.
Great tutorial, helped a lot!
Nathan Laidler awesome! Glad it it helped you out!
Did you need to get an alignment after this? Thanks and great video
An alignment after this job would be a good idea!
How many mile that car just curious. I found Moog hub/ bearing / knkal assembly with 150 around Moog brand. If I go skp can done with 85. Pretty good deal I think. Bye ty for videos.
Hello, great video. What replacement bearing (Brand) did you use? I am having trouble finding an OEM bearing part number.
donald McCulloch thanks! And I bought a replacement bearing from autozone, duralast brand.
thank you
Glad to help!
Nice video. W/o a garage or 2nd car, I will most likely bite the Bullet and let a shop do the whole job. This is a great video thx
Thanks for the kind words! Good luck to whichever way you choose to do!
what kind of shop do you suggest. One mechanic around here seems to want to do the either job... is the shop you are referring to just a regular mechanic / garage? perhaps these questions are stupid, but I have never brought something to a shop like this, but it's a great idea! I have been agonizing about how I am going to get the old bearing out and a new one in.
Sorry for the late response! But I would say call around to any shop, and if they’re not willing to do it call onto the next one. In the video for example I called ahead of time to NAPA to see if they would do it, and they said they would so I knew I would be taking it there to get done quickly.
Do you need a specific type of socket for that Castle Nut, or can you use any 17mm socket? Also, special tool for removing the axle nut?
Any 17mm socket should be fine, I used a 17mm deep socket. And the axle nut does require a “special” socket, it is a size 30mm 12point socket, you can usually pick those up at auto parts stores. At some stores you can even rent the socket, just check with your local stores. I also recommend using a breaker bar, and maybe even a metal pipe to stick on the end of the breaker bar because you do need a bit of force to break the axle nut loose.
Great video.
Marcus Ambrester thank you!
Bro where did you get that cotter pin? What size is it
Torque Specs:
177lb for big spring nuts
66lbs for bottom bolts
36lbs for castle nut
159lbs Axle Nut
the work in and done of removing the bearing at the shop should be included in the video
on my 2004 corolla the intire knuckle loaded with the bearing is 150$
My wheel bearing is messed up. Toyota dealer is quoting me $580.00 to change 1 wheel bearing. They say the labor is 4 hours. It doesnt seem difficult from watchin the video. Did it take 4 hours to change this? Also, do you think $580.00 is too much? Im not sure what the fair price is. TIA
Is this relevant to a 2005 Corolla? (This video is specific ♥️)
Anna Ricon I cannot confirm for sure that this would be relevant for a 2005, since the 2005 is a 9th generation and the 2009 is a 10th generation. And I have never changed one on a 2005. But I would imagine that the process would be similar for a 2005 but not exactly the same. Sorry I could not have been more helpful!
Abe S That’s okay. But thank you for making this video. It’s a good guide 👍🏽
FYI, tossing that part unsecured at the rear of the bed is asking for a missle in an accident. At least toss it closer to the cab.
Quick question for you! When you bought your replacement bearing, did you get just the bearing itself? Or did you get the bearing, the retaining clip, and wheel hub?
I only replaced the bearing.
Question. Did you have to have a 4 wheel alignment on your Corolla after replacing the bearing? I had the same work done on the same wheel and because they removed the knuckle the mechanic said it needs to be realigned.
I did not have a wheel alignment done. But it wouldn’t be a bad idea to have that done. Since a bunch of suspension components were taken apart.
Saturday, April 23, 2022
Abe, how much did it cost for the machine shop to remove the old bearing and press in a new bearing?
My car is a 2004 Toyota Corolla with 119,000 miles. The passenger side, front bearing started making a slight grinding noise. This is probably from driving through 2 puddles after a huge rain storm. ☁️ 🌧️ ☁️
There were cars behind me, and I was worried about slowing down too fast. The driver behind me might not be paying attention and he could rear end my Corolla.
At O'Reilly Auto Parts, the price for a new steering knuckle (which includes the hub and the bearing) is a whopping $420 plus tax!
But I found a steering knuckle on Ebay for only $87.29 plus tax. There are only so many factories in the world that make steering knuckles for Toyota Corollas. Nearly everything is made in China these days. So I figure both of them were made in the same factory.
If I buy a new steering knuckle, then I can skip the step of taking the old one to a machine shop. Plus then the whole thing is brand new.
Thank you for your helpful video! 🙂
I admire the methodical way you work, and you are careful with details.
A Happy April weekend to you and your family, Anthony. 🙂
Generally if you buy a new knuckle it comes with the bearing already installed.
Sorry for the late response, and this may no longer be helpful for you but maybe someone it can help someone down the road. All together buying the bearing separate and having a shop press in the new one it was about $200 give or take $50.
Where did you find the proper torque specs?
Is that the Ohio automotive supply in Findlay Ohio?
whaaaaat, im watching tha video to learn how you take off and put the new bearing on, and you just take to a shop and they do it for you! no mames
If I had the tools to properly press out and press in the new one I definitely would've tried to to show that! However I'm just a guy that likes to DIY and I wanted to show as much as I could do with the tools I have. It was more efficient and cost effective for me to have a shop press out/in a new bearing which is why I went this route.
@@abes8867 thanks man, didnt want to be rude, i know you did a very good job there, i just was expecting to see how to do the hard part, but congrats for you tutorial, is very helpful
@@MrEvolutiongraphix No worries! I didn't take any offense to your comment. I'm glad this video was still helpful to you!
Hey Abe! Do you need to grease the new wheel bearing?
I don’t believe the wheel bearing needed greased but the shop I took it to pressed it in so I cannot completely confirm.
Did you buy a new wheel hub as well? If so what brand did you get?
I did not buy a new wheel hub, the shop I took it to cleaned it off when they installed the new bearing.
Hi Abe, What were the symptoms you experienced leading up to the diagnosis of a bearing problem?
Shane Wikfors the main symptom was when I took the car for a drive. I would hear a loud and noticeable grinding/rumbling noise from the front driver side wheel. And I was able to confirm that was the issue after inspecting the bearing/hub. And it completely went away after having it replaced. I hope that was helpful!
@@abes8867 Yes, very helpful! My problem is I hear a slight whirring sound that does not increase in volume with speed but frequency or pitch. It's more of whirring instead of a whining.
Shane Wikfors it sounds like a similar symptom to the wheel bearing. Are you able to tell if it’s coming from the front or rear of the car? Or maybe driver side or passenger side?
Abe S definitely the front of the vehicle. Maybe the passenger side. I’m concerned it might be drive train related but not bearing?
Shane Wikfors you might be able to rule out the bearing of you are able to get the car lifted. Take the wheel off and just spin the hub with your hand and see if you hear the same grinding noise like I showed in my video. Im not sure how well it will work out, but it might be worth a shot.
Lose the music. silence is OK. How many miles before that '09 wore out the bearing? I have an '09 Matrix with such problems too.
Glenn Moonpatrol It was about 185,000 miles when I worked on it. But I was told it was happening some time before I changed it.
I had the same issue with the cotter pin, I tried breaking off the pin however with that the nut will spin with the ball joint. I had to put every thing back for now. Any advice?
David Houlden that’s a rough spot to be in. One thing you could try is taking a Jack with a wood block or something, on the saddle of the jack, and raise the jack under the balljoint. Put enough pressure on to the joint, enough to where it holds the stud/bolt (whatever you want to call it lol), and hopefully there’s enough friction/tension to hold the stud in place. Also would recommend some rust penetrant on it. Hopefully that helps!
@@abes8867 thanks, I'll try that.
Good video. Lower the music.
Mr2587838 thanks! And I will work on that in the future, still trying to dial in my editing abilities.
Just for a future heads up fam. Don’t use a hammer to knock the axle out. You coulda messed up the threads like my dumba55 did 🤣
😂😂 thanks for the heads up! Hope you were able to get it all worked out!
I know I'm very late, but if you keep the spindle nut on the end of the axle to protect the threads, you can use a hammer. I always plan to replace that nut whenever I remove it, so I don't care about gouging the old one.
what is the meaning to watch your video if you recommend people to ask autoshop do the job ..
10:13 torque specs
Weak... a real man would have removed the bearing and pressed it in himself.
awesome video, thank you !!!!
Jorge Cruz glad it was helpful for you!